Growing
Growing Lewisia: Plant These Versatile Perennials In A Bed, Pot, Rockery Or Crevice
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Lewisia Lewisia Plant Care Commonly Grown Types References From the neatest little rosette of ribbon-like leaves emerge taller flowering stalks on Lewisia, a compact evergreen, and what pretty flowers those stalks hold! These flowers feature little star-like blooms with silken petals in tones of pink, purple and orange, with elegant streaks and flushes across the petals. Lewisias produce a profusion of delightful, small, funnel-shaped, star-like flowers with silken petals in radiant hues, each petal displaying longitudinal streaks, bands, flushes or other colouration. Overview Botanical Name Lewisia Common Name(s) Bitter Root / Cliff Maid Plant Type Alpine / Perennial Native Area Northwest America Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous / semi-evergreen / evergreen Flowers Star-like and marginally funnel-shaped with 8-10 petals in various colours from white to red When To Plant June Though these blooms truly have a graceful, refined look about them, no-fuss Lewisia grows in hardscrabble habitats which means that you don’t need to worry yourself too much about fertile soil, feeding, or even watering.1 You can take advantage of this fact and the plant’s small size to bring pebbly, sandy patches to life and to fill odd crevices and holes in or on walls. The plant also has a tidy habit quite like lilies, as the ribbon and strap-like leaves, from narrow to broad, grow in a neat rosette over which taller stalks exhibit those appealing little blooms. Plant these versatile little perennials in a bed, pot, rockery or crevice. How To Grow Lewisia Lewisias must have very well-draining soil that is somewhat fertile, though not overly-rich for the best results. Take a base of gravel, grit and sand and amend it with humus and ericaceous organic compost in a very conservative ratio, and you’ll have the ideal medium for this plant. If any of the first three components are in short supply, add perlite instead. For such plants, I lay pebbles at the bottom-most layer to be certain that subsided water drains. I would also make a top layer of pebbles and gravel; this will suit this plant very well as it will offer protection from crown rot. Light Lewisia should be positioned in full sun, especially in the UK, for optimal health and flowering. Planting First off, Lewisias must be protected from wet conditions in the winter. Also, they are very compact and their habit and form make them perfect for standard half-conical pots. So, if you plant Lewisias in pots, they are virtually winter-proofed already, as you can shift pots to somewhere they will have a roof over their heads, such as a porch or covered patio. “I treat Lewisia like succulents as they have the same tolerance of dry spells and susceptibility to wet root conditions,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Soil in pots can easily be adapted to reflect the free-draining, alpine conditions Lewisia evolved in.” As for open-ground planting, this may be done sometime after the last frost and after the soil has warmed up. May is ideal. When transplanting, make certain that only the root crown is below the soil as you backfill the hole. Also, set the plant at the same level it was in the pot and no lower. If you plant Lewisias in crevices and holes in walls, make sure to add some ericaceous compost to the medium you prepare just in case the native medium is too lime-centric and alkaline. Lewisia Plant Care Watering Young and growing Lewisia plants must be watered regularly during the growing season, particularly in spring and autumn. During spring, water twice a week depending on the weather, but make sure that excess water can always drain away. Established Lewisias are actually drought-tolerant, so mature plants will not be unduly affected if a couple of watering sessions are missed. In fact, underwatering will not harm Lewisias, but overwatering will. Water needs are greatly reduced during the winter and during summer dormancy. Feeding Lewisias do not need to be fertilised, so that’s another gardening chore you can disregard. Lewisia cotyledon ‘Little Plum’ Of course, they will perform better if they are fertilised correctly, but over-fertilising will injure or even kill these plants. Feed monthly from April to July, diluting the fertiliser to only about 25-30% of the recommended strength and volume. Pour the solution away from the crown and water it in. Deadheading You may deadhead spent blooms on a continuing basis to encourage fresh blooms and prolong flowering. Propagation Lewisia is not exactly easy to grow from seed and can take anything from one month to one year to germinate. If you wish to germinate seeds indoors in autumn, they will have to be stratified by being subjected to a cold period. Seeds should be placed in the fridge for a couple of months and then directly sown in spring. Sow densely in a seed-starting mix amended with sharp sand. Simply nudge seeds into the medium. Do not cover them. Keep the medium continuously moist until germination. As Lewisias produce offsets over time, you can also propagate them this way and it is more convenient and easier than sowing and germinating those fussy seeds. Any time in June, simply dig up an offset without disturbing the mother plant, cleanly slicing through any subsoil tissue that may connect the plant and the offset. Replant the offset in exactly the same type of soil and to the same depth and water it in. Common Problems The main pests that can affect Lewisias are snails, slugs and aphids. Although aphids can become a serious concern if not tackled early on, none of these three pests are too difficult to control. The real problem with Lewisias is their susceptibility to root and crown rot, which is usually caused by human error. These conditions are hard to detect in their early stages and often result in the death of the plant. Prevent these diseases in the first place by paying attention to the growing medium and watering practices and by guarding against winter wet. Commonly Grown Types L. tweedyi Produces relatively large flowers at 4-6cm wide that are in restrained, delicate shades of yellow, peach, cream and white, with petals showing fine longitudinal gradations. The plant is about 20cm tall and is another RHS Award of Garden Merit winner. L. cotyledon Sunset Group Grows to about 20cm tall with a slightly greater spread, producing flowers that are 2-2.5cm wide. They occur in tones of orange, yellow and red, whilst the petals display very fine longitudinal gradation and banding. This is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. L. pygmaea As its name indicates, this is the baby of the family and has a height and spread of under 10cm! Its flowers are only about 1.5cm wide and occur in rich tones of pink, purple and red. L. ‘Little Mango’ Grows to about 12cm tall with a slightly bigger spread. The relatively large flowers are a rich tone of yellow. Lewisia cotyledon ‘Elise Mix’ A cracking new cultivar which is popular for good reason, as it starts blooming before and continues after summer, with the longest blooming season among Lewisias. The colours include yellows, pinks, reds and oranges in fruity tones with petals decorated with striping and picotee. This cultivar grows to about 25cm tall with a slightly bigger spread. References 1. Lewisia cotyledon. (n.d.). Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center – University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved August 3, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LECO5
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Horticulturists Share How To Grow Calceolaria 'Slipper Flower' And Some Common Types
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Types How To Grow Calceolaria Calceolaria Plant Care References Want to brighten up your garden with a flower that melds the cute with the exotic? Calceolaria, also known as the slipper flower, will do it in spades. This tender shrub produces incredibly charming little blooms that resemble a lady’s purse (another popular name for them) in warm hues. Overview Botanical Name Calceolaria integrifolia Common Name(s) Slipper Flower / Slipperwort / Pocketbook Plant / Lady’s Purse Plant Type Perennial Sub-Shrub Native Area Mexico, Chile & Argentina Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Ovoid, 1-1.2cm, shaped like a Dutch slipper, clog, or a lady’s purse; in shades of yellow, orange, and red When To Sow May to July Some Calceolaria species and their cultivars produce flowers that are not only cute but have an exotic feel. Appearing in rich, warm hues, these ovoid flowers look rather like handbags or Dutch clogs, so it’s for good reason that this plant also goes by names like lady’s purse and slipperwort. Unfortunately, there’s a drawback with growing this plant, as it hails from South America, so is not exactly easy to grow in the British Isles.1 Also, when planted in open ground as a bedding plant, it will effectively be an annual in the UK and Europe because it is so tender. Common Types While the species plant, Calceolaria integrifolia, has received the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit, the ‘Sunset Mixed’ cultivar features delightful colours and has a very long flowering season. Calceolaria integrifolia The species plant, if grown as a perennial, will eventually approach 1m in height. For 2-3 months over spring and summer, it produces flowers in a bright, sunny yellow tone. ‘Sunset Mixed’ grows to only 20cm tall, but it produces flowers in glorious yellows, oranges and reds, some with markings, streaks and splashes across its petals. With some luck, it will bloom from sometime in April to July. How To Grow Calceolaria Soil Requirements Slipper flower requires light, friable, moderately fertile soil that drains very well and is somewhat acidic. A sandy loam mixed with grit, perlite or both will make a very good base. Minimise chalk and clay as components. The best soil pH for this plant is acidic. Placement Although this evergreen sub-shrub is often grown as bedding and for borders, doing so in temperate regions such as the UK effectively turns it into an annual. I suggest that you grow this unusual sub-shrub in a container so that you can try to enjoy its special charms year after year. After the weather has warmed up in late spring, take the pot outdoors and position it somewhere it only gets dappled or filtered sunlight. A sheltered spot with an east or west-facing aspect is best. This plant thrives in a fairly narrow temperature range of 15-19°C and also prefers humid environments. In mid-autumn, you can shift it indoors. Sowing If you attempt to grow a lady’s purse from seed, I recommend that you obtain seed packets from a trusted nursery or seed company. Seeds collected by hobbyist gardeners, even from a species plant, may not be viable and can be difficult to germinate. Sow seeds between April and July. Temperatures between 17-20°C will greatly aid in germination. In small pots, sow seeds onto the surface of a seed-starting or potting mix with added sand. Moisten the medium. If sowing in April or May, put the pots in a cold frame outdoors and if sowing in June or July, cover the pot with a clear polythene sheet that has a few punctures. In either case, choose a position which gets ample dappled or filtered sunlight. Planting If you transplant Calceolarias into open ground, do so a couple of weeks after the last frost only if the weather and the soil have warmed up. You should be able to plant out in most UK locations from late May. Choose a sheltered spot that gets dappled or filtered sunlight, preferably with an east or west-facing aspect. Calceolaria Plant Care Watering & Fertilising Watering Calceolaria is a bit of a balancing act. Underwatering will be signalled by drooping foliage, but overwatering will not be signalled in good time and it may cause root or crown rot. So, while the plants require ample water, you cannot run the risk of overwatering, especially in summer. To strike the correct balance, water generously, then allow all of the soil to fully dry out before watering again. For outdoor plants during a hot, dry summer, water daily, whilst during temperate, humid weather, let the foliage be your guide! From early May until the end of the blooming season you can feed fortnightly with a very diluted solution of high-potash fertiliser. For slipper flowers, dilute the fertiliser to only 25% of the strength and also apply by half of the recommended volume. Deadheading Deadheading will stimulate fresh blooms and prolong flowering, so you may pinch off single spent blooms. However, when most of the flowers in a cluster are withered, snip off the cluster itself with a pair of sterilised secateurs. Collecting Seeds If you want to collect seeds, you will need to let the flowers stay on the shrub so that they form seed pods. After the seed pods are fully formed, you can remove them in late autumn. They can be opened with thumbs and fingers to expose the seeds. Be aware that only the seeds from the species plant will give you a chance to germinate new plants from seed. Collecting seeds from plants that are crosses or cultivars will likely be an exercise in futility. Propagation Propagating slipper flowers is a tough ask, especially in the UK. To propagate by cuttings, the best time period is July to August, during which you should take softwood cuttings. Cut just beneath a node. Insert the cutting into a well-draining mix of sand and potting compost in small pots and moisten daily. Keep the pots indoors near a window where they get the maximum amount of indirect light but no direct sunlight. Common Problems The most serious problems that may affect Calceolarias are root rot, crown rot and grey mould. The first two problems are caused by human error and are preventable by balancing the watering as described above. The third is a fungal disease that typically strikes when a plant is indoors or in a greenhouse in humid conditions. Though it is easy to spot in its early stages, no chemical controls are available to hobbyist gardeners. Grey mould can often be prevented by ensuring adequate ventilation and not overcrowding plants. Other than that, these plants may be attacked by aphids, slugs and snails. References 1. Calceolaria. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved August 3, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331444-2
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Growing Armeria 'Sea Thrift' - This Plant Needs Near Zero Maintenance
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Armeria Armeria Care Common Types References Requiring virtually zero maintenance, Armeria is a tough evergreen that makes do with poor soil and tolerates salt-spray. Displaying foliage rather like brilliant green grass, this prepossessing little plant produces masses of pompom-like flower heads in gorgeous hues for up to three months in the summer. Armerias are justly prized for being impervious to salty air and sea spray and are also rightly valued for being perfect for rockeries and ground cover. However, when those are the lenses through which you see Armerias, you may forget that they are also charming, decorative, flowering evergreens that are terrific in a wide planter or as companion plants. They can also be planted into odd nooks, crevices and holes in walls, as long as they get full sun. Overview Botanical Name Armeria Common Name(s) Sea Thrift / Sea Pink / Cliff Rose Plant Type Perennial Native Area South America and the British Isles Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small, cup-shaped flowers held in dense, pompom-like clusters in shades of pink, purple, red and white When To Plant May to June The numerous species in Genus Armeria are native to the entire temperate Northern Hemisphere, the Mediterranean and South America.1 Armeria maritima is native to the British Isles and is a fairly common sight on sea cliffs and other coastal areas.2 Armeria foliage is nothing if not grass-like. Out of season, the plant appears to be slowly-spreading clumps and hummocks of wild grass of a light, bright shade of green – but during the blooming season, it is coated with dense, pompom-like flower heads composed of tiny little flowers, rising well above the foliage. Many of the flowers are nectar-rich, further enhancing your garden by attracting swarms of butterflies and bees. How To Grow Armeria Although you can certainly start Armeria seeds in pots for later transplanting, these steps are superfluous because this plant lends itself to direct sowing. Armeria seeds may be sown in the open ground after the soil has warmed up sometime in spring up until early summer, as well as in autumn, avoiding the warmest and coldest periods of the year. Dampen the soil first. Then, seeds should be nudged by a finger into the soil or placed on the ground and thinly sprinkled over with soil. Keep the sowing area continuously moist until the seeds germinate. Armeria plants should eventually be spaced by about one-half the spread of the variety or by about 20cm for a fuller look. Preferred Aspect These tough plants have no preference as to aspect or exposure whatsoever. All they need is a position in full sun. Soil Requirements & Planting The more nutrient-rich and fertile the soil, the more poorly Armerias will perform. Dense and poorly-draining soils will also not work out. Provide a loose, gritty, gravelly, sandy loam which will drain very well. Armerias may be purposed almost anywhere and used in nooks, rockeries, beds, and holes in walls. Simply transplant this tough plant in late spring to autumn and water it in. Armeria Care Armeria are virtually zero-care plants. They cannot tolerate full shade, poor drainage or overly-rich soil, but these one-time requirements do not fall under ongoing care. Just plant them in full sun in the right type of soil and they’re all set. Watering & Fertilising Armerias are ideal for forgetful gardeners as they require little water. Water young plants regularly but conservatively by merely dampening the ground. In many regions of the UK, mature Armeria plants’ low water needs will be met by rain. However, you should water during prolonged dry spells and periods of hot weather. Armeria do not need to be fertilised and improper feeding may do more harm than good. If you wish to fertilise them, do so once in spring with a pinch of succulents fertiliser or a mix of banana peel and wood ash. Sprinkle or work into the ground away from the roots and water it in. Pruning & Deadheading Another plus point for these no-care plants is that they do not need to be pruned. It is not necessary to deadhead Armerias, but it is you can do so if you want to trigger fresh blooms. Using a pair of scissors or mini-secateurs, snip off the faded flower head’s stalk as close to the ground as possible. I find it easy and efficient to hook the back or lower blade around the stalk, partially close the blades, slide it down the stalk and then snip. This way, there’s no danger of cutting anything you don’t want to cut. Common Problems As long as sea thrifts are positioned in full sun in open ground, these evergreens are virtually disease-free and pest-resistant! The most frequent problems that may arise would be traceable to human error, such as poorly-draining soils and overwatering. “You will normally find Armeria on sale in garden centres from April and these will be found with the herbaceous perennials or in the alpine plant section,” shares Horticulturist Dan Ori. “This is a big clue to Armeria’s preferred growing conditions and where best to plant, as it will thrive in a rockery and well-drained conditions.” Common Types Armeria maritima is the species plant that is native to the UK. It grows to about 15cm tall and the hues of its flowers are on the pink to purple spectrum, typically a bright tone of magenta. Two of its cultivars include: A. maritima ‘Alba’ Bearing pure white flowers, this cultivar has a height of about 20cm and a spread of 30cm. A. maritima ‘Splendens’ Growing to about 20cm with a slightly greater spread, its flowers are of a rich, vibrant, pink hue. And finally – not a native but an import from Spain that has been awarded the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit: Armeria caespitosa This mat-forming species grows to merely a few centimetres tall but spreads to about 30cm. It bears soft, pastel pink flowers at nearly the same level as the grass-like leaves. References 1. Armeria (DC.) Willd. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved August 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30024238-2 2. Thrift (Genus Armeria). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved August 2, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/60479-Armeria
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Consider This Before Planting Invasive Acaena As An Alpine Ground Cover Option
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Acaena Acaena Care References Acaena offers several species of ground cover plants native to parts of the Southern Hemisphere, that are often grown between paving in a path or patio – or in a rock or gravel garden. However, it is important to note that these plants can be invasive in some areas, so think carefully before you decide to grow them in your garden, as sometimes it may be best to consider native ground cover options. Overview Botanical Name Acaena Common Name(s) Bidibid, Piripiri, New Zealand Bur Plant Type Perennial subshrub Native Area Mostly New Zealand, Australia and South America Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Tiny, carried in dense rounded heads or spikes, followed by fruiting heads like burrs When To Plant May to September Acaena is a genus of evergreen herbaceous perennials and subshrubs in the Rosaceae plant family.1 According to Kew, there are 56 accepted species within this genus, most of which are native to New Zealand, Australia and South America. Common Varieties Varieties commonly grown in the UK include: A. microphylla A. intermis ‘Purpurea’ A. buchananii A. saccaticupula ‘Blue Haze’ A. affinis How To Grow Acaena Acaenas are very easy to grow – so much so that you may not have difficulty in growing them successfully but rather in curtailing their growth. If you would like to grow this plant, it will be important to choose the right location. Remember that given their invasiveness, you should not grow these in conditions where they might easily escape into the wild. In fact, in some areas of the UK it is an offence to purposefully plant Acaena in the wild.2 Light & Temperature One thing to remember is that these are plants that will typically thrive in a position in full sun, though many species and cultivars also cope well with light, dappled shade, especially in warmer areas. These plants have a hardiness rating of H4-H5 depending on the specific species and variety. Many can cope with a British winter but some may need a little protection in colder parts of the UK. Soil Requirements This is a plant that absolutely needs good drainage. The soil must be free-draining and not retain water or become waterlogged at any time. However, as long as the drainage is excellent, this plant can cope with a range of different soil types and ph levels. Poor soil is tolerated very well by these plants. Gardening expert Dan Ori suggests: “Acaena can be a good plant for a hanging basket in slightly shaded conditions due to its robust nature and attractive leaves.” Acaena Care Acaena is certainly a type of plant that thrives on neglect. It can cope without any human intervention and has, in recent years, spread to the wild through seed and garden waste where it thrives on its own without any care, colonising a number of habitats and threatening to outcompete native plants. For this reason, we need to be very careful how we grow it in our gardens. Watering & Feeding When it comes to watering and feeding, you can take a minimalist approach. You will likely have to water Acaena only during the most prolonged dry spells in summer, and will not have to feed these plants at all, as they can cope with low-fertility conditions very well. Cutting Back The most important job when growing Acaena in an area where they may be invasive is collecting the seed to prevent its spread, which you should do in the early autumn. The stems also root freely, so you should pull them out to restrict the spread of the plants. Propagation The easiest way to propagate Acaena is by dividing mature plants in the early spring. You can also sow the seeds you have collected in the autumn or spring. Common Problems These plants are not really troubled in UK gardens by any pests or diseases – the only thing they are much troubled by are overly damp and waterlogged conditions. Remember, Acaena are non-native plants that can become invasive. They are easy to grow, but should only be grown with caution in areas where they may spread to the wild and pose a risk to our native habitats. References 1. Acaena Mutis ex L. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved August 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001386-2 2. Pirri-pirri bur. (n.d.). Invasive Species Ireland. Retrieved August 23, 2023, from https://invasivespeciesireland.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/NIEA-ID-Guide-Acaena-spp.-1.pdf
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How To Grow Auriculas - Begin With Border, Garden Or Alpine Types
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Growing From Seed Where To Plant Plant Care Temperature Soil & Watering Feeding Pruning Common Problems Auriculas produce flowers in an amazing array of colours and patterns, from essentially ‘block colour’ blooms in bright cheery tones through to highly intricate patterns comprising of daubs, stripes, and gradations in hues both diffuse and striking. Their diverse varieties mean that these herbaceous perennials are perfect for beds and borders but also for greenhouse cultivation and decorative planters. Centuries of such cross-breeding and confusion mean that – though there may or may not be such a thing as an ‘Auricula Society’ or a ‘Primula Society’ – there is such a thing as the ‘Auricula and Primula Society’ – several of them, in fact. They occur as salver-shaped single flowers and complex, ruffled double flowers. Overview Botanical Name Primula auricula L. Common Name(s) Auricula Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H5-H7 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Solitary or umbels of salver-shaped flowers in pink, purple, yellow, white and dark green When To Sow January or February Flowering Months April, May Some of these, for example, Primula ‘Cinnamon’, could even be mistaken for a type of rose. Double Auriculas claim among them a few of the rare flowers that come in leaf green, and have pure black colouration. As for the single types, the descriptor ‘salver’ is a particularly apt one, for a large number of varieties resemble hand-painted miniature porcelain crockery. Self Show Auriculas The ‘basic’, simplest types are identified by the flowers’ velvety appearance, white central disc and bi-tonal gradation on the corolla, as professional gardener Roy Nicol shares: “Some plants have a white or yellow powder called the farina coating the leaves and, on occasion, the flower.” ‘Basic’ or ‘complex’, one way or another Auriculas are highly ornamental plants that bear showy flowers – and ultra-showy or ‘show-offy’ flowers in view of their unique and complex patterns, extraordinary palette, and countless colour combinations. These supremely ornamental plants come at a price, however. Not surprisingly, in general the more ‘complex’ and prized the variety, the more difficult it is to grow and the more high-maintenance it is. I’d advise that even experienced gardeners who want to take the plunge into growing Auriculas would do well to begin by growing Border or Garden Types and Alpine types. For gardeners who are diligent and determined, Auriculas are quite possibly the top choice to introduce unmatched colours, show, and ornamental interest to your garden. Habitat & Growing Conditions As Auricula originate in Alpine and Sub-Alpine regions, cool to cold, dry climates suit them best. They are also accustomed to frequent rainfall but must have well-drained soils. Though Auricula species are hardy enough to thrive in exposed locations, cultivars should be grown in sheltered locations. All varieties are winter hardy, and their hardiness spans USDA Zones 3 to 8 (H5 to H7 RHS Zones). How To Grow Growing From Seed There is no agreement on the best season to plant Auricula seeds. The answers you get will vary by society, nursery, or expert, and will span the year from November through July! Personally, I would propose that seeds be sown as winter transitions into spring. Where To Plant Border Auriculas have a name that indicates just where they ought to be planted – borders and also beds and rock gardens, which is where Auricula species can be planted too, and also Alpine types if the climate is suitable. All types are excellent choices for small gardens and for courtyards. Show types are perfect to grow as specimen plants in terracotta pots and in small, decorative planters in a cold greenhouse. Auricula varieties need to be grown in a location where they get part-sun part-shade, are protected from high heat and humidity, and are sheltered from harsh elements but where there is a free flow of fresh air. “After overwintering under protection, Auriculas are often displayed in ‘Auricula Theatres’ when they come into bloom, where they can be displayed to their best advantage,” explains Roy. Plant Care As a general rule, Auricula species and the Border or Garden types are the least difficult to grow, and the Show Types, such as Fancy Show, being quite difficult. Temperature These often need to be grown in a cold greenhouse or in a cold frame. It should not get too hot, too dry, too wet – they are sensitive plants and require care, alertness, and gardening expertise. Because most Show Varieties can be finicky, what one can offer in an outline are broad recommendations that may need tweaking and tuning. Soil & Watering These plants should be grown in humus-rich soil or compost-based loam; in either case some grit or gravel should be mixed in. The soil should drain very well but should be kept moist in spring and summer. They need frequent but moderate watering but only through spring and summer. In the winter months they should be kept dry and get a mere sprinkling of water. Free-flowing fresh air is necessary for Auricula health. Feeding You may apply a general-purpose organic fertiliser in January. In April, lightly feed the plants with 5-10-5 fertiliser to boost flowering. Pruning These small plants do not need pruning other than removal of diseased or abnormal parts. All you need do is deadhead in the flowering season. Common Problems Auriculas are among those plants that are most prone to pests and diseases – you could almost say, if a plant disease or pest exists, Auricula cultivars – and even some species – are susceptible to it. A laundry list of diseases and pests includes, leaf aphids, root aphids, leafhoppers, glasshouse red spider mite, vine weevils, slugs, botrytis aka grey moulds, leaf spot, and plant viruses. From among all of these worrying threats we feel that root aphids, botrytis AKA grey mould, and vine weevil pose the greatest danger to Auriculas in the UK. Skilled and experienced gardeners may be able to cure plants taken down by these problems. Where these sensitive plants are concerned, the best plan is to be vigilant and practise prevention by following the plant care recommendations above.
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15 Plants To Grow An Alpine Rock Garden With Inspiration From RHS Harlow Carr
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Chosen Varieties 1) Aubretia 2) Campanula 3) Dianthus 4) Gentiana verna 5) Geraniums (Alpine Varieties) 6) Lithodora 7) Penstemon 8) Pulsatilla vulgaris 9) Phlox 10) Primula 11) Saxifraga 12) Sedums 13) Sempervivums 14) Thyme 15) Veronica Final Considerations References There are plenty of great plants to consider for an alpine rock garden. But when you are getting started with growing alpines, it can be great to have a list of some of the favourites that you can use as a starting point for making your selections. A rock garden is a great feature for a garden – typically in a sunny and open spot. Creating this type of habitat will allow you to grow a range of relatively low-maintenance plants which come from rocky and mountainous regions, and make the most of areas that may have nutrient-poor and/or shallow soils. Expert Chosen Varieties We consulted with a specialist grower to find out their favourite alpines that could be suitable for growth in a rock garden. “Alpines incorporate so many different varieties,” says Hayley Willerton, Owner of The Alpine and Grass Nursery. “Ventilation is also essential and as all the alpines we grow are hardy, they do not need covering up in winter.” Some of Hayley’s favourite varieties include: Erodium x kolbianum ‘Natasha’ “This is a very pretty alpine with fern-like, silver-green leaves bearing darkly veined pink flowers with two maroon eyes,” shares Hayley. “These alpines love basking in full sun.” Armeria maritima ‘Dusseldorf Pride’ “‘Dusseldorf Pride’ bears many clusters of deep pink flowers from spring through to autumn. “It is loved by pollinators and thrives in either full sun or partial shade.” Silene acaulis “This is a compact, slow-growing alpine, studded with tiny pink flowers and is a true delight,” says Hayley. “This alpine always makes me smile.” So – if you have made an alpine rock garden, or are thinking about making one, here are fifteen further plants to consider: 1) Aubretia SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: WELL-DRAINED; ALKALINE OR NEUTRAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 Aubretia, also known as purple rock cress or purple chickweed, is a hardy (H6) mat-forming perennial. It is evergreen and has copious, lovely little pink or purplish flowers in the spring. It will thrive in full sun and well-drained soil that is alkaline or neutral in pH, but can also tolerate a little partial shade. 2) Campanula SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL DRAINED; ANY PH HARDINESS RATING: H5 There is a wide range of diminutive bellflowers, Campanula, which are perfect for rock gardens. There are literally hundreds of varied options within this genus. One type of bellflower which I would recommend for a rock garden is Campanula portenschlagiana – wall bellflower. This low growing perennial is a great alpine plant, which is evergreen, forming dense mats of small rounded leaves. They have pretty violet-blue flowers in the summer. H5 hardy, these are ideal for rock gardens or sunny borders where conditions don’t get too wet in winter. 3) Dianthus SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ALKALINE OR NEUTRAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 Alpine varieties of Dianthus, also known as ‘Pinks’ are also ideal for many alpine rock gardens. D. alpinus is another mat-forming perennial which bears pretty pink or cerise flowers in the summer months. It is H6 hardy, and will thrive in a well-drained position in full sun, with alkaline or neutral pH. Their flowers are vibrant additions to an alpine rockery. 4) Gentiana verna SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL DRAINED; ALKALINE OR NEUTRAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 Spring gentian is another lovely alpine for a rockery, which is another small evergreen mat-forming perennial. But in spite of its small size, it can really make a big impact with its stunning sky-blue flowers with white centres, which bloom in late spring and early summer. It is H5 hardy, and prefers moist but well-drained soil that is alkaline or neutral, in full sun. 5) Geraniums (Alpine Varieties) SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL DRAINED; ANY PH HARDINESS RATING: H5 Alpine geraniums are another notable group of plants to consider for an alpine rock garden. One great example is G. ‘Ballerina‘ (Cinereum Group), a great ground cover plant and great for wildlife.1 It is an H5 hardy herbaceous perennial which forms small clumps of foliage and flowers with pinkish purple-hued blooms in late spring and summer. The evergreen perennial G. dalmaticum is another great option to consider for your rock garden. 6) Lithodora SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ACIDIC OR NEUTRAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 Lithodora diffusa is a great training plant for the rock garden. H5 hardy, it has deep green foliage that spreads well, and deep gentian blue flowers which bloom over a long period from May through the summer months. It will do best in full sun; in acidic or neutral soil. 7) Penstemon SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ANY PH HARDINESS RATING: H4 Pine-leaved Penstemon, P. pinifolius, is another interesting plant to consider. This bushy dwarf shrub is evergreen, with short, needle leaves – and it bears bright scarlet tubular flowers in the summer months. It will thrive in very well-drained, sheltered, spots in full sun. Another Penstemon to consider is P. laetus subsp. roezlii, a perennial which bears purple flowers from late spring to mid-summer. 8) Pulsatilla vulgaris SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: VERY WELL DRAINED; ANY PH HARDINESS RATING: H5 Also known as pasqueflower or meadow anemone, this clump-forming perennial wows with its large nodding purple flowers, followed by silky fruiting heads. It is H5 hardy and will thrive in any very well-drained soil in full sun. Though it can be hard to establish, once it beds in it is wonderful for an impressive alpine rock garden. 9) Phlox SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL DRAINED; ANY PH HARDINESS RATING: H6 Phlox is a genus which offers a number of different mat-forming evergreen perennials that work very well in sunny, well-drained rock gardens. They have small pinkish flowers which emerge from late spring. Phlox douglasii and P. subulata are both great examples, which are H6 hardy and fairly resilient in the right conditions. 10) Primula SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ALKALINE OR NEUTRAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 For a moist but well-drained rock garden in full sun, ideally in loam, Primula auricula is another reliable choice. This evergreen perennial has lovely bright flowers which emerge in the spring. H5 hardy, these are relatively well known and popular primulas for a rock garden. Note: these are not the same as true show auriculas. Primula marginata, P. allionii and their many hybrids are also excellent options for an alpine rock garden. 11) Saxifraga SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ALKALINE OR NEUTRAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 Saxifraga are yet more mat-forming perennials which are great for adding lush greenery to alpine spaces. There are a number of examples with flowers of various different hues. S. ‘Silver Cushion’ and S. paniculata ‘Lavagreana’, ‘Rosea’ and ‘Venetia’ are all top options to consider. If you are new to alpine rock gardening then this genus should be one of the go-to choices. 12) Sedums SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ALKALINE OR NEUTRAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 Like saxifrages, Sedums are also an obvious go-to choice, whether you are a complete novice or a far more experienced gardener of alpine plants. Many stonecrops, with their pretty little star-shaped flowers, are ideal for nestling among rocks in a rockery, or even planting into the top of a stone wall. S. cauticola, for example, is one such Sedum to consider. 13) Sempervivums SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ANY PH HARDINESS RATING: H7 For free-draining, sunny sites, succulents like Sempervivum are often a great choice. Houseleeks, as they are sometimes called, are very easy to please alpine succulents. There is a reason why they are so well known and widely recognised – with attractive and intricate rosettes, they can grace your garden for many years as long as they don’t have ‘wet feet’ and are protected from excessive rain in winter. 14) Thyme SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ALKALINE OR NEUTRAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 Thyme is a plant that you might be more likely to consider placing in a herb garden rather than in an alpine rock garden, but Thymus vulgaris will be right at home in this location. Well known as a culinary herb, thyme can also be a great decorative plant – producing little purple flowers in addition to aromatic leaves. A creeping thyme variety will be ideal for spreading through your rock garden. 15) Veronica SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: WELL DRAINED; ANY PH HARDINESS RATING: H5 Veronica prostrata, or rock speedwell, is my final pick – another of my favourites for an alpine rock garden. This mat-forming semi-evergreen perennial thrives in well-drained locations in full sun. It is H5 hardy and has really pretty blue flowers that bloom during the summer months. This is another relatively easy and low-maintenance plant. Final Considerations A rock garden can represent a big investment in rock, and in time and energy – even where the rocks are already available on site. So it is important to make sure that you make the right plant choices for your particular rock garden. Remember that “rock gardens should have a growing media that is relatively low in nutrients and organic matter and high in gravels, grits and sands to reflect the habitats that alpines come from,” according to Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Choosing the right plants means that they should thrive in the conditions that you have created for them, a ‘home from home’. “However, plants that like fertile conditions will suffer, whilst drought-tolerant non-alpines might take over your rockery. “A little homework on planting goes a long way to successful planting!” References 1. Geranium (Cinereum Group). (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/194563/geranium-(cinereum-group)-ballerina/details
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How To Create An Alpine Garden In 8 Steps With Jenny Shukman (Picts Hill Alpines)
IN THIS GUIDE What Is An Alpine Garden? How To Make An Alpine Garden What Alpine Plants Might You Use? References Head up into the mountains and you’ll see a completely different palette of plants and flowers to those you see at lower altitudes. An alpine garden is a special type of garden designed to replicate these mountainous growing conditions as closely as possible, giving this captivating set of plants an opportunity to thrive in your very own backyard. In this guide, we’ve collaborated with Jenny Shukman, Co-owner of Picts Hill Alpines. What Is An Alpine Garden? To expand on the brief introduction above, an alpine garden is one specifically designed to simulate the conditions and replicate the flora that grows naturally at high altitudes. A whole new palette of colours and shapes This is achieved through several means, one example of which is switching out regular garden soil for sandier, well-drained soils, along with gravel and rocks to align more closely with the stark and barren mountaintop conditions. With these changes, it becomes possible to grow a set of plants that might not otherwise thrive at lower altitudes, and to bring their aesthetic from the far reaches of a mountain range to the comfort of your back garden. The first alpine garden is attributed to Anton Joseph Kerner, a renowned Austrian botanist.1 The concept has since spread far and wide, garnering enthusiasm from gardeners around the world. Lots of alpine gardens feature succulents like sedum So popular are alpine gardens, in fact, that the Alpine Garden Society (AGS) was formed in 1929 to support any gardener looking to learn more about this type of gardening.2 How To Make An Alpine Garden Hopefully by now you’re inspired to begin turning your backyard (or at least a section of it!) into an alpine garden. Here’s how to do it: 1) Decide where your alpine garden will go So far we’ve alluded to alpine gardens as fairly big undertakings, prone to make use of a large portion of your outdoor space. This doesn’t have to be the case, however. Alpine gardens can range in size from a full backyard, right down to a trough or even a flower pot. “You can create an alpine garden in many different ways and it doesn’t need to be on a large scale,” Jenny shares. “All sorts of containers can be used and raised beds work as well. Choose rocks to suit the size of your container.” 2) Make sure the spot simulates the desired conditions Whichever size alpine garden you go for, keep in mind that you’re aiming to recreate mountain conditions as closely as possible. This means lots of exposure, no shelter from the wind, and less moisture than you’d usually find in your garden. “Crevice gardens are an effective way of displaying alpines, where the rocks are placed vertically and close together to provide narrow planting pockets,” Jenny recommends. “It is also important to display them where you can appreciate them and where you can look after them easily. “Raised beds work well for this, or simply a few clay pots on a patio table. “As well as being able to enjoy them better, you will be able to quickly spot any problems.” Crevice garden Unless you’re working with a particularly large garden, it’s not unusual at this stage to struggle to find the right spot. Most of us will have gardens without a spot that’s shade-free all day. If this is the case, look for the spot that gets the most sunlight compared to everywhere else. Avoid a spot near buildings, trees, and other tall plants. Ideally it will be as open as possible from all sides, letting the air circulate undisturbed. 3) Try to position your alpine garden against a natural background When you’re up a mountain, it’s unlikely that the splendorous plants and their bright flowers will be set against a brick wall, a wooden fence, or some similar man-made backdrop. Whilst we appreciate that space may be a limiting factor here, we do advise trying to find as natural a background as possible. Something that gives you and your guests an opportunity to suspend disbelief, and imagine themselves atop a mountain peak somewhere in Europe, rather than being sat in a British back garden. “Trying to create a naturalistic backdrop was the reason that Victorian estates sometimes spent vast amounts of money in converting quarries, importing stone or even creating artificial stone to build immersive alpine experiences,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Rest assured, more modest efforts also make the required impact.” 4) Remove the weeds This is good advice for any area of your garden, really, but it’s especially important for an alpine garden. For two reasons: Weeds will break the illusion by mixing two distinct aesthetics. Alpine plants are susceptible to being damaged by weeds. For best results, take special care to remove all weeds from your alpine garden spot before planting anything, then remain extra vigilant and quickly remove any industrious weeds that break cover. 5) Ensure good drainage This is of paramount importance. Alpine plants require far less moisture to thrive, and will suffer if left standing in moist soil for too long. “Most alpines don’t mind the cold, but damp weather can cause problems,” says Jenny. “Make sure they are in well-drained soil or compost and provide good airflow. “Don’t overcrowd the plants and provide a good layer of horticultural grit or stone chippings to cover the soil or compost. “Quickly and carefully remove any foliage that shows any sign of succumbing to the damp.” Choose sandy soil or gravel to allow water to drain away quickly and easily from your alpine garden. Lewisia cotyledon ‘Elise Mixed’ “Use free draining soil or compost mixed with horticultural grit, and add a layer of grit or stone chippings on top,” Jenny explains. With Jenny’s advice in mind, if you’re working with a spot that currently has regular soil, we recommend working grit or sand (or both!) into it to bring it in line with what these plants need. “Top up the mulch of horticultural grit or stone chippings when needed,” Jenny adds. “This will prevent the alpines from sitting in wet soil and prevent them from rotting.” 6) Add rocks If you’re working with a space big enough to allow it, incorporating large rocks is a fantastic way to cultivate the alpine garden aesthetic. You can buy stones from garden centres and outdoor shops, or go straight to the source and approach stone merchants directly. Limestone is often found in natural mountainous conditions, and makes a popular addition to home alpine gardens. Try not to get too hung up on the exact size and shape of the stones you buy, instead accepting that a rugged and unplanned selection will probably end up looking better than rocks fastidiously chosen to match each other. “Try not to let any weeds get established as they will be difficult to remove if their roots grow under the rocks,” Jenny explains. “Pull them out carefully by hand when they are still seedlings.” 7) Plant your garden Once everything is ready, it’s time to start planting out your alpines. “Select plants with a theme,” says Jenny. “For example, you could opt for a range of sempervivums to provide all year interest and other alpines with similar properties to provide seasonal colour.” You have a lot of other options here, so let’s take a look at a few: Buy mature alpine plants from a garden centre. This is a great way to get your garden looking alive from the outset, which is motivating and encouraging. Choose a few plants you like, double-check that their needs align with your conditions, then take them home and plant them out. Grow alpine plants from seed. Each plant has different requirements so we won’t go into all of them here, but it’s possible to grow a range of alpines from seed. Participate in the AGS seed exchange.3 Each year the Alpine Garden Society run a seed exchange where alpine gardeners – from amateurs through to seasoned vets – can find unusual seeds they may struggle to find elsewhere. Whichever combination of options you choose, planting things out into your alpine garden is probably the most exciting step. This is when your plans and potentially hard labour morph into a tangible medley of beautiful plants. 8) Other tips We highly recommend checking out the AGS website, along with other resources designed to help budding alpine gardeners find their feet.4 Like many niche types of gardening, alpine gardeners are a vibrant and enthusiastic community ready and willing to help newbies get acquainted with the technique. There are plenty of books about alpine gardens, too: Great if you’d like to delve a little deeper into the area, and to bolster your understanding even more before setting out on your very own project. What Alpine Plants Might You Use? As well as sedum, pictured above, there are plenty of exciting and attractive plants that feature frequently in alpine gardens. Here we’ll showcase a few to give you a feel for what you could be working with. Rock Cress / Arabis alpina This flowering Brassicaceae boasts delicate white flowers, above a tuft of rugged leaves. Hailing from only a few places on the Isle of Skye, it’s a tricky plant to find in the wild. This goes some way to explaining its appeal to alpine gardeners, who can, with care, bring something quite rare to their garden. Pasque Flower / Pulsatilla vulgaria Bright and beautiful blooms With bright purple petals surrounding a sumptuous yellow centre, the pasque flower brings a bold splash of colour to any alpine garden. The plant is related to the buttercup family, and is found naturally in various parts of Europe. Yellow Helmet Flower / Scutellaria orientalis Comfortable growing in the harsh alpine tundra, the yellow helmet flower features small tubular flowers (no points for guessing which colour they are), alongside deep green, ridged leaves. Seeing this plant, it’s obvious immediately that it cut its teeth somewhere harsh and unforgiving. Alpine Geraniums / Geranium macrorrhizum This Geranium is suitable for growth in UK gardens – one of the few plants you’ll find regularly in alpine gardens to do so.5 Its bouquet of gentle purple flowers, above bright green leaves which share their distinctive shape, is eye-catching and attractive. Candytuft / Iberis sempervirens Bunches of white petals dancing aloft from the ground, the candytuft lives up to its light and airy name. Ranging all over Europe, parts of Africa, the Middle East, and Asia, this plant hails from far and wide. Its attractive bloom makes it a popular and viable addition to any alpine garden. See this guide for more alpine plant inspiration. And this guide if you’re looking to grow your alpines in a trough. References 1. Kerner von Marilaun, Anton Joseph. (n.d.). JSTOR. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://plants.jstor.org/stable/10.5555/al.ap.person.bm000152118 2. Alpine Garden Society Homepage. (2023, March 16). Alpine Garden Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.alpinegardensociety.net/ 3. Seed Exchange. (2022, October 3). Alpine Garden Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.alpinegardensociety.net/seed-exchange/ 4. Beginner’s corner. (2023, January 4). Alpine Garden Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.alpinegardensociety.net/beginners-corner/ 5. Alpine or Rock Geraniums. (2020, July 24). The Hardy Geranium Nursery. Retrieved June 27, 2023, from https://hardygeraniumnursery.co.uk/2020/07/24/alpine-or-rock-geraniums/
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Elizabeth Waddington's 15 Alpine Plants That Love Free-Draining Troughs
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Androsace 2) Aquilegia 3) Armeria 4) Campanula 5) Dianthus 6) Draba aizoides 7) Gentiana 8) Globularia 9) Phlox 10) Primula 11) Ramonda myconi 12) Saxifraga 13) Sedum 14) Sempervivum tectorum 15) Veronica prostrata References Growing alpine plants can be a great, relatively low maintenance choice for many gardens. And one of the easiest ways to grow these plants is in troughs. Remember, when positioning a trough, that most alpine plants will prefer a full sun location. Though, as you will discover in this article, there are also plenty of alpine plants that are suitable for a trough in partial shade. When choosing alpine plants for troughs, be sure to think about the growing medium with which you fill your container, and of course, the environmental conditions. “Although not all alpine plants are true alpines, i.e., from mountain slopes, this is a good place to start when thinking about the growing media for alpine plantings,” says expert Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Mountain slopes are generally free-draining but receive plentiful rainfall, particularly in winter. “Add plenty of sharp drainage to your compost mix, such as horticultural grits, gravels and sharp sand. “This should ensure that water flows quickly through the roots whilst the compost holds on to some moisture.” It is important to think about exactly where the trough is located – how sunny or shaded the location is, how protected from heavy rains, temperatures, humidity and how exposed the area is to strong winds.1 To help you begin to make your plant choices, we will run through fifteen alpine plants that can make fantastic choices for a trough garden. 1) Androsace Androsace sempervivum The first of our top choices for an alpine trough garden is Androsace sempervivum – sempervivum leaved rock jasmine. This dainty flowering plant is in the Primulaceae plant family. It is an evergreen perennial that forms mats, with sprays of little pinkish or mauve flowers around 1cm in diameter which appear in the spring. These are fantastic for a trough in full sun, with a free-draining medium. Other Androsace also work well in troughs, including A. carnea, A. chamaejasme, and A. pyrenaica. 2) Aquilegia Many varieties of Aquilegia also work extremely well in troughs. One great option, for example, is Aquilegia bertolonii, otherwise known as Bertoloni columbine. This deciduous perennial in the Ranunculaceae family is native to South-East France and North-West Italy. It has beautiful violet flowers born in groups of up to four on erect stems. The plants grow to a height of around 30cm, and can thrive in either full sun or partial shade. Aquilegia saximontana is another useful alpine plant for a trough that will be located in partial shade. 3) Armeria Amongst the many thrifts that will work well in an alpine trough, Armeria juniperifolia stands out as an excellent choice. This is a compact perennial. It is evergreen and forms dense mats that spread to around 30cm. In the late spring, pale pink flowers will appear above these mats of foliage on stems that are around 2-5cm in height. Coming from central Spain, this is an alpine suited to a trough in full sun and well-drained conditions. 4) Campanula Campanula of many species and varieties are go-to plants for many alpine gardens. Birch-leaved bellflower, C. betulifolia, Tommasini bellflower, C. tommasiniana and Rainer’s harebell, C. raineri, are all good options to consider, for example. The first of these two can thrive in full sun or partial shade, while the last on this list is best for full sun conditions, and must be protected from winter wet. 5) Dianthus Dianthus alpinus is another go-to for alpine trough gardens. Alpine pinks are hardy, mat-forming perennials with pretty pink flowers up to 4cm wide. Native to the eastern Alps, these flowers tend to be short-lived, but they look good and perform wonderfully when placed in a well-drained trough in full sun. Other Dianthus to consider for a trough include D. freynii, D. microlepsis, and D. subacaulis, for example. 6) Draba aizoides Draba aizoides Draba aizoides, also known as whitlow grass, is another great plant to consider for troughs. It is another mat-forming perennial alpine plant which has bright yellow flowers which bloom in the late spring. It is native to the mountains of south and central Europe, and you may be surprised to learn that it is a member of the Brassicaceae, or ‘cabbage family’. This is another alpine that will enjoy a trough that is free-draining, and placed in full sun. 7) Gentiana Gentiana also work well in troughs, adding plenty of visual interest with their trumpet-shaped flowers. Gentiana acaulis, large-flowered gentian, for example, can be a great choice. It can work well not just for troughs in full sun but also for those in light shade. Like other perennial, evergreen alpines, it is great for forming ground cover (around 30cm across) on a trough or other alpine container. You might also consider other gentians, such as G. saxosa, for example. 8) Globularia Globularia cordifolia is another of the mat-forming, evergreen perennials that we would recommend for growing in troughs. It forms ground cover with tiny, cute little spoon-shaped leaves, and sends up charming little light purple/lavender flowers in the summer months. These plants, like so many other alpine plants, will do best in full sun, and require free-draining conditions. Other Globularia, such as G. repens and G. meridionalis, are also well-worth considering. 9) Phlox Phlox douglasii Phlox is another rewarding plant genus to look into when you are choosing alpine plants for troughs. Mat-forming Phlox douglasii such as ‘Crackerjack’, ‘Rose Cushion’ or ‘Iceberg’ can work extremely well in a trough that is placed in full sun or partial shade. They flower from late spring and through the summer months, with pretty flowers in a range of hues. Phlox bifida – ‘Alba’ for example, can also work very well in similar conditions. 10) Primula Many Primula varieties also work well in troughs. One option that we would recommend that you consider is P. farinosa. P. auricula, P. ‘Beatrice Wooster’ and P. marginata are all also excellent options to think about. Most Primulas will be equally at home in full sun or partial shade, as long as they are provided with suitably well-drained conditions in their trough. 11) Ramonda myconi The Pyrean violet, Ramonda myconi, is another evergreen perennial alpine plant that we would recommend for a moist but well-drained trough that is placed in partial shade. Not just for their pretty flowers which bloom in late spring and summer, but also for their interesting wrinkled and hairy leaves. Grow these on their sides at the edges of a trough to avoid water accumulating in the rosettes, which can cause rotting in winter. 12) Saxifraga Saxifrages in an alpine trough A huge number of saxifrages are ideal for alpine troughs. Just a few examples of the saxifrages to consider are S. hypnoides, S. ‘Silver Cushion’ and S. paniculata. ‘Lavagreana’, ‘Rosea’ and ‘Venetia’ for example, are three S. paniculata cultivars that have gained the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. Though of course there are many, many more saxifrages to consider for a trough that has very good drainage, with alkaline or neutral soil. 13) Sedum Sedums are also go-to choices, and there are many different Sedums that can work well in an alpine trough garden. Amongst the Sedums that we would recommend are S. spathulifolium ‘Purpureum’ – purple spoon-leaved stonecrop – which looks great year-round in a sunny or part shaded position. And Sedum acre, such as ‘Golden Queen’. S. cauticola could be another option to consider. 14) Sempervivum tectorum The common houseleek is a well-known choice, but that is no reason to exclude it from this list. There is a reason why this alpine succulent is such a popular choice – both for use inside the home, and for planting outdoors in alpine troughs and containers. The fleshy rosettes on these plants, with their reddish-purple tinge, look great year-round. So though they may not be the most original choice, they are still an excellent plant to consider when planning an alpine trough in a full sun position. Just make sure that the plants are protected from excessive winter rainfall. 15) Veronica prostrata Last but not least, Veronica prostrata ‘Nana’ is another great choice. This charming speedwell is great for forming ground cover and creating mats of dark green foliage in an alpine garden. Then in late spring/early summer, the vibrant blue flowers will appear. Placing this in a trough can really show it off to its best advantage, and help make sure that its lovely display is not lost amid other vegetation. References 1. International Rock Gardener. (n.d.). International Rock Gardener. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2018Feb221519324634IRG98.pdf
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