Growing
Growing Nigella 'Love-In-A-Mist': A Charming Cottage Garden Plant And Prolific Reseeder
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Nigella? Common Varieties How To Grow Nigella Planting Plant Care Common Problems References This article is for all you hopeless romantics out there. Nigella, also known as love-in-a-mist is a charming, old-fashioned annual. It produces stunning, solitary flowers which are encased in delicate, feathery bracts which give the impression of the flower being surrounded by mist. Love-in-a-mist blooms in colours of blue, pink, lavender and white and can bring a real sense of magic to your garden. “I have many flowers and plants that I love to photograph, but one of my favourites has to be Nigella damascena because they are so structural,” shares Molly Hollman, an award-winning Photographer. Growing to a height of 15-24 inches and, if there is space, up to a foot in width, this pretty plant is perfect for pots and containers as well as mixed borders and gaps. With its unusual and unique appearance, feathery foliage and fascinating flowers, love-in-a-mist can really provide texture, structure and interest to your garden, making it a firm favourite among gardeners. Overview Botanical Name Nigella Common Name(s) Love-In-A-Mist Plant Type Annual Flower Native Area South Europe, North Africa, South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Finely dissected leaves Flowers Solitary blue or white flowers When To Sow April, May, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August Nigella ‘love-in-a-mist’ is an upright growing, annual garden flowering plant that has a long season of interest. It is very easy to grow from seed and in the cooler months produces stunning flowers to cut. If you are able to resist cutting the flowers then come summer, you will be rewarded with kooky seed pods. Belonging to the buttercup family, love-in-a-mist is native to Southern Europe, Northern Africa and the South-West of Asia.1 The flowers usually bloom from early summer but can bloom in spring and autumn too, and the plant self-seeds and grows in the same spot year after year. Love-in-a-mist is said to represent harmony and love with the flower symbolising the bonds that bind people together. The seeds of nigella are frequently used in cooking; they are usually dried and can be found in baked goods, pickles, and can also be used as a substitute for pepper. This effortlessly beautiful plant thrives best in full sun to partial shade and prefers moist, well-drained soil. Why Grow Nigella? With their quirky and unique beauty, it is hard to find a reason not to love these gorgeous plants. But if you are still not sold, here are a few more reasons to fall in love with them: This plant is great for sowing over spring bulbs; once the bulbs have finished blooming, nigella will take the stage and keep your garden looking glorious and filling up unsightly gaps. As spring bulbs go over, autumn sown Nigella will start to take over and by early summer will be in flower. They may even be in flower to accompany late Tulips, so bear this in mind when considering colour combinations. Nigella is a fabulous cut flower making for charming displays. The funky seed pods are also a great addition to both fresh and dried arrangements. It makes a charming choice for informal cottage gardens, but given how well it does in pots and containers, it can work beautifully in any garden no matter the size or style. Nigella is a prolific reseeder so, once planted, they will reward you with flowers year after year. Common Varieties Now that you’ve decided that your garden is simply crying out for love-in-a-mist, then it’s time to choose the right one for your garden. There are many varieties to choose from, so we’ve picked out some of our favourites to help you get started. ‘Miss Jekyll Dark Blue’ This popular, upright, bushy variety boasts stunning, dark blue blooms which are then followed with decorative, balloon-shaped seed pods which are a quirky addition for dried flower displays. Growing to a height of 18 inches and 12 inches in width, this cultivar will is unfussy and will grow in any well-drained soil. Plant ‘Miss Jekyll Dark Blue’ where it can receive full sun, and it will reward you with a fabulous display. This species of love-in-a-mist is ideal for flower borders and beds, city and country courtyards, cottage gardens and pots and containers for patios and decking. ‘Miss Jekyll Alba’ This splendid variety is very similar to the ‘Miss Jekyll Dark Blue’ but instead sports pretty ornate white flowers and bright green seed pods. These will thrive in all the same spots as the previous species; however, they are particularly useful for brightening up sunny borders. ‘Miss Jekyll Alba’ usually grows up to 20 inches in height and the same in width and is easy to care for, requires little pruning and is generally problem-free when it comes to pests and diseases. This variety blooms between July and September and will thrive in moist, well-drained soil, full sun and in a sheltered spot. ‘Blue Midget’ This dwarf nigella is a little shorter than other varieties and only grows to around 10 inches in height, making it a brilliant option for edging. It has beautiful sky-blue flowers and the same ferny, misty foliage as other members of the love-in-a-mist family. ‘Blue Midget’ nigellas prefer moist, well-drained soil and full sun although they will tolerate partial shade. You can either sow your seeds between March and May, or in autumn, and they will bloom the following year. You can cut flowers regularly to encourage growth and prolong the flowering window. You will also need to deadhead them if you do not wish them to reseed. ‘Persian Jewels’ This type of love-in-a-mist produces a gorgeous jumble of bloom colours in shades of blue, purple, pink and white. ‘Persian Jewels’ grow from 12-18 inches in height and are perfect for bedding. They also make exquisite cut flowers and look simply stunning in a vase. The seeds of this variety have a strong aroma and spicy taste and can be used to great effect in cooking and baking, adding a burst of flavour to bread, cakes and curries. You should plant nigella in moist, well-drained soil and full sun and will flower from June to August. How To Grow Nigella Now that you have your heart set on planting nigellas and have chosen the perfect ones for your garden, it’s time to get started. Thankfully these pretty plants are straightforward to grow and care for and are very low maintenance, and we’ve put together everything you need to know to get it right the first time. Planting Love-in-a-mist does not do well being transplanted, so growing from seed is the best way to go. You can sow seeds from early spring and all through summer for same year flowering, or in autumn so they will flower the following year. Sowing seeds is simple, just scatter them in your chosen spot and gently rake them in. Don’t worry about covering them with soil but do ensure they are pressed in slightly and kept nice and moist. For the best result, choose a sunny, sheltered location. Love-in-a-mist is a short-lived plant, but you can keep the flowers going by continuing to sow every four weeks or so. The bonus of them being short-lived means they tend to remain trouble-free as pests and diseases don’t have time to take hold. Container Growing Love-in-a-mist makes a stunning addition to pots and containers. You can give them the best shot by sowing them inside and keeping them indoors for around six weeks. You can then place the pot or container outside in a sunny, sheltered spot. As previously mentioned, these plants do not tolerate being transplanted well, so make sure you plant them in a pot or container with adequate space so you can avoid repotting. Soil Requirements Love-in-a-mist is remarkably unfussy but will thrive best in fertile, nutrient-rich soil, and while the soil needs to be moist, they don’t enjoy sitting in wet earth. This plucky plant will also tolerate drier conditions and other types of soil including gravelly types, clay and clay-loam. Plant Care Watering During dry periods we recommend watering your nigella at least a couple of times a week, always check the moisture of the soil and then water accordingly. Fertilising If you want you can add a general-purpose fertiliser when you sow your seeds and then fertilise again around a month later. Pruning If you want to keep your plant flowering longer, you can deadhead or cut the flowers. That said, this will mean you will sacrifice the quirky seed pods which will also mean the plants won’t self-seed – meaning you will have to sow a fresh batch the following year. Common Problems This fabulous flowering annual rarely suffers from pests and diseases. That said, whiteflies, thrips and other common pests may find their way in. If this occurs, simply spray the plant down with a hose and this will wash the pests away without damaging any flowers. As you can see, this gorgeous plant is one of a kind. It’s easy to grow and easy to care for, making it easy to see why this plant has been popular for so many years. It’ll add so much colour, texture and interest to your garden. Be sure to research your chosen variety to give them the best start and they will reward you with their exquisite aesthetic year after year. References 1. S. (n.d.-f). Love-in-a-Mist, Nigella damascena. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/love-in-a-mist-nigella-damascena/
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These Are The Conditions You Need To Grow Snapdragons Say Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Snapdragons Soil Sunlight Planting Water Propagating Common Problems Snapdragon Types References Antirrhinum, commonly known as ‘snapdragon’, is often thought of as an old-fashioned, country cottage plant, conjuring up memories of running through your grandparent’s garden as a child. But these cheery, vibrant annual plants are making a keen comeback. Snapdragons are easy to grow, bursting with colour, wonderfully fragrant and beloved by bees and other vital pollinators. Blooming from April to June and August to October, these powerful plants come in a vast array of colours and various heights, and can really bring a dynamic twist to your garden. Perfect for beds and borders, they also thrive in containers – making them perfect for any garden, regardless of the style or size. Overview Botanical Name Antirrhinum majus Common Name(s) Snapdragon Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Europe, North America, North Africa Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Simple leaves Flowers Tubular, two-lipped flowers, solitary or in terminal racemes Flowering Months April, May, June, August, September When To Prune May, June, July, August, September Snapdragons get their name thanks to their snout-shaped flowers which resemble the jaw of a dragon – the “dragon’s mouth” even opens and closes when squeezed laterally and makes a slight snapping sound. The plants are said to represent both deception and graciousness.1 Whether all that is true remains to be seen, but an absolute fact is that they are stunning plants that are guaranteed to brighten up your garden. Snapdragons fall into three different categories which are determined by their height and are as follows: Dwarf – measuring from 15-35cm in height Intermediate – measuring from 35-75cm in height Tall – measuring from 75-120cm in height The variety in sizes makes this a multi-purpose plant well suited to bringing texture and structure to your garden. They’re also sure to complement other flowers. How To Grow Snapdragons Snapdragons are undemanding and easy to grow, making them perfect for novice gardeners or those of us with a busy schedule. They are also a wonderful and rewarding plant to encourage children to learn about gardening. I actually grew some from seed earlier this year. These were sown in my indoor propagator around late February, before being planted out in May. You can see that I managed to achieve some pretty spectacular flowers, though I did need to stake them with bamboo canes given we live in a really windy area! At first I was worried I had planted them outside a little too early, as the foliage of the seedling showed signs of stress, but the plant slowly grew to life as summer approached and the weather got gradually warmer. The pollinators loved them, and given that they were so easy to grow, I will definitely be growing even more this coming year. “I grow dwarf Antirrhinums in my kitchen garden to enjoy as cut flowers but also to attract pollinators,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The shorter cultivars mean that I don’t have to worry about them collapsing over later in the summer.” Many varieties will repeat bloom, but all of them tend to do best in the cooler months of spring and autumn. If you are keen to introduce snapdragons into your garden then but aren’t sure where to begin, we have put together a complete guide to growing and caring for these spectacular plants. Soil Snapdragons are not too fussy, but they do prefer moist, well-drained soil. Being short-lived plants, they aren’t heavy feeders but, they will appreciate it if you add a layer of organic matter to keep them healthy and happy. Sunlight If you want to get the most out of your snapdragons, then plant them in full sun to partial shade. Opting for partial shade and keeping them well watered will give them more of a chance to make it through summer and will often bloom again in autumn. Planting You can sow snapdragon seeds in early spring or autumn. When large enough to handle you can transfer the seeds into pots or containers and place in a sheltered spot. If you are planting them in beds or borders, then be sure to do so after the threat of frost. Water Snapdragons are thirsty plants, so make sure you provide them with adequate water. Once established, they require an inch of water a week if there has been no rain – but be sure not to over-water. You should also avoid overhead watering and instead aim for the crown. Propagating With their prolific flowering and beautiful colours, you will likely want to introduce these plants into other parts of your garden or share them with family or friends. You can divide snapdragon plant roots by digging the plant up at the end of summer. Divide the root mass into as many pieces as you desire and then plant each division into a large container. You will need to keep the container indoors throughout winter and then plant into the garden the following spring. It is worth mentioning however that these plants establish quickly, so if you don’t have luck with propagation it is easy to replace them with fresh new snapdragons. Common Problems Snapdragons generally have few problems with pests, and although diseases are uncommon, the main things to watch out for are powdery and downy mildew, and Botrytis blight. There are many options for getting rid of powdery and downy mildew. Botrytis blight is a little trickier, but first and foremost be sure to disinfect pruners between cuts to prevent the spread of this disease. It’s then advisable to destroy infected plant material; this will also prevent it from spreading to nearby plants. Snapdragon Types There are dozens of varieties of snapdragons, blooming in gorgeous colours of red, pink, orange, yellow, purple and white, as well as in bicolours, and both pastel shades to the brightest of hues. With so many varieties to choose from, it can be hard to know where to start so we have picked out some of our favourites to help get you started. Antirrhinum majus ‘Rocket’ This lofty snapdragon grows to a height of around 90cm and comes in a variety of colours. They have sturdy stems with florets that are closely set and are extremely tolerant of heat. With eight colours to choose from they are a versatile option that are sure to bring a burst of colour to your garden. A. majus ‘Black Prince’ Contrary to their name, black prince snapdragons actually have dark purple leaves and beautiful deep red flowers. Growing up to 45cm in height, this variety enjoys warmer weather and will thrive in a spot where it can enjoy full sun. A. majus ‘Royal Bride’ This traditional variety is one you will commonly see in the gardens of country cottages. It blooms in pure “bride” white with a gorgeous dash of cream near its stem. Royal bride snapdragons can reach heights of 90cm and have a glorious aroma. Plant near paths or house entrances to enjoy their delicious scent. A. majus ‘Tahiti’ This variety grows to a height of around 20cm and is among the tallest in the dwarf snapdragon category. They are the ideal plant for garden bedding. They don’t come in as many colours as many other types, but they make up for it with the option of bi-colour flowers. They can be sown at almost any time of year and are perfect for rockeries, borders and containers. A. majus ‘Madame Butterfly’ This showy specimen is a delightful cross between rocket and bright butterfly snapdragons. Their flowers aren’t as open-faced as the butterflies but more so than the rocket. The madame butterfly snapdragons have fluffy, azalea-shaped blooms and come in rich colours of red, orange, pink, yellow, white, purple and lavender. Chandelier This romantic variety of snapdragon is more of a trailing plant, with a bush-like quality. Their flowers are a little smaller than other types, and if placed in a hanging basket, their blooms and leaves will cascade down with beautiful and dramatic effect. References 1. Snapdragon Flower Meaning. (2017, March 21). Flower Meanings. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://www.flowermeaning.com/snapdragon-flower-meaning/
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Myosotis ‘Forget-Me-Nots’: Perfectly Suited To Traditional, Modern And Formal Settings
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Myosotis Varieties Plant Care Common Problems References If there is one thing forget-me-nots are not, it’s forgettable. This sweet little spring plant is famous for the adorable, five-petalled flower that burst from its stems from May right and right through October. Usually pale blue and with striking yellow centres, these flowers are easy to remember. Forget-me-nots, or Myosotis, are traditionally seen in country gardens; however, their understated elegance means they are perfectly suited to traditional, modern, formal and informal settings. This plant is perfect for borders or the edges of paths and will complement other spring-blooming flowers, making it a charming addition to any garden. Overview Botanical Name Myosotis Common Name(s) Forget-me-not Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Hairy perennial Flowers Blue, yellow or white, delicate 5 lobed flowers When To Sow May, June, September Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September The Myosotis genus consists of 153 species and, while they are famously pale blue, they can also come in many other colours including shades of pink, orange and white.1 Forget-me-nots are steeped in symbolism and, in almost every country where they are found, it seems there is a myth or a legend involving them. Often used in wedding bouquets, forget-me-nots are said to symbolise true love and were given as a gift with the hope that the recipient would never forget the giver. They are also said to represent long-lasting connection which can include not only the bond that exists between lovers, but also between friends or family. Myosotis Varieties There are hundreds of species of forget-me-nots, with many variations of colour, size and other characteristics that set them apart. Here are some of our favourite forget-me-nots to help you find the best ones to grow in your garden. Wood Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. sylvatica This variety of forget-me-not is a short-lived herbaceous perennial plant that produces gorgeous blue, pink or white flowers with striking yellow or white centres which bloom from mid-spring to mid-summer. Wood forget-me-nots are easy to grow and prefer moist, well-drained, organically rich soil in full sun or partial shade. Growing from 5-12 inches, they are well-loved by butterflies, bumblebees and other helpful pollinators. Thanks to their incredibly low maintenance nature, this versatile little plant is perfect for rock gardens, borders, banks and underplanting shrubs. Field Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. arvensis The field forget-me-not is generally biennial or annual and, sometimes, a perennial herb. This particularly popular plant produces blue, funnel-shaped, five-petalled flowers and can grow to a height of 4-16 inches. The seeds of this variety can stay dormant for up to thirty years until they deem it a suitable time to sprout and germinate when conditions are favourable. This plant is pollinated by small flies but it can also self-pollinate if necessary to ensure seed production. Field forget-me-nots are best grown in full sun or part shade and in moist, well-drained, organically rich soil. This low-maintenance plant will perform superbly in borders and beds, slopes and banks, rock gardens, underplanting shrubs and roses as well as in containers. Water Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. scorpioides This erect herbaceous perennial produces gorgeous sprays of sky-blue flowers with tiny yellow centres which bloom from early to late summer. Typically growing to a height of 6-10 inches, the water forget-me-not loves to sprawl across the ground, creating a magical flower carpet. This beauty is easily grown in full sun or partial shade and, while it prefers wet to moist conditions, it can adapt to ordinary soil providing it has the moisture it needs and the soil contains clay-loam. Water forget-me-nots are ideal for water gardens and wet areas and are a stunning addition when planted around streams, bogs, banks and ponds. Changing Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. discolor This variety gets its name thanks to the changing shades of colour of its flowers. Blooming from May to September, the petals first appear cream or pale yellow and then gradually turn to pink, violet or blue. The changing forget-me-not is a perennial or annual growing herb which can grow to a height of between 4-20 inches and produces leaves in a variety of shapes that are coated with small, soft, straight hairs. Like the other forget-me-nots on this list, they are easy to grow, prefer full sun or partial shade and will perform best in open, grassy areas. Strict Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. stricta Last but not least, the strict forget-me-not is perhaps the most familiar type and is the variety that truly symbolises love and friendship. It is also the earliest blooming Myosotis in the entire family, producing delicate blue flowers from May to June. Plants in this variety typically grow to a height of between 2-8 inches and are perfect for attracting useful pollinators into your garden. They prefer full sun to light shade, in mesic to dry conditions, preferring loamy or sandy soil. This type of Myosotis is perfect for rocky outcrops, banks of streams, and dry areas where other plants may not so easily thrive. They are also known to reseed themselves aggressively. Plant Care Forget-me-nots are incredibly low maintenance and will pretty much take care of themselves. That said if you would rather they didn’t just spread freely around your garden you can pull up plants before they seed to prevent them from spreading too extensively. Now that you’ve decided that your garden is crying out for unforgettable, forget-me-nots you might be wondering where to start. Growing While some types of Myosotis may differ slightly, generally most prefer to grow in sunny or slightly shady spots, in moist, well-drained soil. Some varieties prefer a little more shade, and when paired with other shade-loving plants, they can make for an enchanting display. Make sure you research your chosen type before planting to ensure you place it somewhere it can thrive. That said, forget-me-nots are very adaptable and versatile and will do well in most conditions. Propagation Myosotis will readily, and sometimes aggressively, self-seed. “Myosotis will self-seed in the areas that they like best,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I edit the seedlings in my garden to keep them where I want them. I love them in combination with early spring bulbs and they contrast beautifully with the reds and yellows of daffodils and tulips.” You can either allow them to do their thing and spread where they wish, or if you want to share the love, or introduce them to another part of the garden, you can lift new seedlings and give them as a gift or plant them in a new area. Common Problems Thankfully there are no pests that are particularly attracted to forget-me-nots. The only problem you are likely to face is powdery or downy mildew after flowering. These fungal diseases are recognisable by the white, powdery patches that appear on upper and lower leaf surfaces. Garden fungicidial treatments are readily available for affected plants. As you can see, forget-me-nots are so easy to include in your garden and, being so low maintenance, are perfect for beginners as well as gardeners with busy schedules. References 1. Myosotis. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online | Kew Science. Retrieved June 5, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30010296-2#children
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You Can't Fail To Notice Petunias - Here’s How To Grow Them And Some Cultivars To Try
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Petunias? Petunia Varieties How To Grow Petunias Petunia Care Common Problems Petunias are one of those plants that you can’t fail to notice everywhere in the UK. These long-flowering beauties add vibrant bursts of colour throughout our gardens with the compact varieties being perfect for borders and beds, while the trailing types are a wonderful addition to hanging baskets. Petunias come in a wide range of stunning colours, with choices between single and double blooms. Many varieties even have their own unique fragrances. Overview Botanical Name Petunia Plant Type Annual / Perennial (these plants are naturally perennial but commonly grown as annuals in the UK) Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Simple leaves Flowers Various colours, trumpet-shaped flowers When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October When To Prune July, August, September With so many options available, it’s easy to see why these pretty perennials are so well-loved, and why they make a choice for any garden whatever its size or style. Why Grow Petunias? Why are we so fond of petunias and their trumpet-shaped flowers? Well, here are a few reasons I can think of: Petunias establish themselves quickly and easily. Caring for them is actually surprisingly easy, making them ideal for beginner and experienced gardeners alike. They are prolific flowerers, producing impressive amounts of blooms from June to October. They are low maintenance, making them really easy to care for. Petunias are well suited to pots, planters and containers. They won’t look out of place on an exterior windowsill, a patio container or hanging from a decking rail planter. With so many colours, sizes and shapes to choose from, it is easy to find the perfect petunias for any garden. Because of their easy-to-grow nature, they are a great option if you are hoping to introduce children to gardening. “Petunias are popular for a reason,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They flower for months on end and provide a burst of vibrant colour with relatively easy maintenance. “They are perfect for pots and containers, which makes them ideal for beginners or children but also a quick win for the time-pressed or casual summer gardener.” Petunia Varieties There are hundreds of cultivars of petunias to choose from, so it can be hard to know where to start. Here are five of my personal favourites: P. ‘Priscilla’ This double-flowering variety of petunia is wonderfully fragrant and has beautifully unique, large and heavily veined lilac blooms. This pretty, purple plant has a long trailing habit, growing to up to 80cm in length, making it a superb choice for hanging baskets. P. ‘Phantom’ This sleek, sophisticated and exceptionally eye-catching variety sport velvety black petals that, over time, develop star-like yellow patterns. ‘Phantom’ has a mounding, upright growth habit and is ideal for flower boxes which are sure to turn heads. P. ‘Red Bingo’ This plucky little petunia produces bright red medium-sized blooms that add interest to your garden throughout the summer months. Thanks to their compact, upright growth habit they are perfect for pots that can be placed on patios and decking P. ‘Black Satin’ This petunia produces gorgeous deep purplish-black trumpets that bloom from late spring to late summer. With their satin sheen and compact nature, they are ideal bedding plants and will really help to make the other colours in your garden pop. P. ‘Star’ With blooms in shades of pink, red and purple, P. ‘Star’ is one of the most popular bi-coloured varieties. Their whimsical style makes the perfect choice for gardeners who want to inject a bit of fun and gaiety into their garden. Fresh and flamboyant, they are well suited to both formal and informal style gardens. How To Grow Petunias Including petunias in your garden can offer long-term colour to your garden’s landscape over the summer months. Cultivation Petunias adore sunshine, although they will tolerate light shade, and will perform best in moist, fertile, well-drained soil. To prepare the soil, you will want to dig in lots of organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure to make sure you really pack in the moisture. Growing From Seed Different varieties of petunias perform differently when sown from seeds so, if you want to plant from seed, it’s important to research which varieties will reward you the most. Annual and bedding petunia seeds should be sown in spring. When the plants seem to be comfortable outside and after the risk of frost has passed, you can then plant them in your chosen spot in your garden, containers, hanging baskets or window boxes. Planting Out The best time to plant petunias is between May and June when the risk of frost has well and truly passed. You will want to use freshly prepared soil or balancing compost when planting petunias. If you are planting in a basket or pot, we recommend planting three or four plugs per 30cm radius. Dig a decent-sized hole which will easily allow for the rootball of the plant. Next, add a layer of organic matter or compost to the base of the hole and fork it in thoroughly. You can then take the root ball and place it in the hole, making sure to adjust the depth so that it is at the same level that it was at in its original pot, taking care to make sure the roots are level with the soil surface. Mix in more compost or organic matter and gently fill in the hole. Next, we advise applying a layer of general granular feed and then water well – you may also wish to apply a 5cm layer of well-rotted garden compost, which will help you to lock in the moisture and help prevent the growth of weeds. To begin with water every 3-5 days, avoiding the foliage which can be easily damaged. Instead, water at the base close to the soil. Take care to ensure that the pots have good drainage to prevent waterlogging and root rot. You can check the moisture level of the soil before watering to be sure. If you are lucky to have a greenhouse, you can place the little petunias in spring, allowing them to grow and then put them outside in June. This will encourage earlier and longer flowering throughout summer. Petunia Care Sunshine is vital when it comes to growing healthy petunias. Pick a sunny little spot in your garden, and your petunias will produce an abundance of glorious, beautiful blooms for you and your family to enjoy all throughout the summer months. Watering Petunias also require moist soil so, during dry spells, you will want to water regularly. For petunias planted in containers watering may be needed on a daily basis to help them to thrive, but do take care not to overwater as this can result in the plants becoming leggy with far fewer flowers. Spreading ground cover varieties are very particular about water and will require weekly watering to keep them healthy. Feeding Throughout the summer, we highly recommend feeding your petunias with liquid plant food. This will encourage maximum production of flowers that will bloom for a much longer period. Common Problems They may look dainty, but petunias are tough cookies and can withstand a fair bit of neglect and poor weather conditions. But, as with all plants, there are a number of pests and diseases that can cause all kinds of damage. We’ve put together a list of the most common pests and diseases and how you can tackle them to keep your petunias happy and healthy. Caterpillars Humans may adore petunias, but caterpillars may well be their biggest fans. These irritating creepy crawlies love to dine out on foliage and buds and, if left unchecked, can cause some fairly significant damage. If you can face it, the best way to get rid of these beastly mini beasts is to pick them off by hand daily; you can then either release them into the wild, far from your garden or if absolutely necessary, drown them in a bucket. If handpicking caterpillars sounds like too much of an ordeal, then weekly sprays of Bacillus thuringiensis will quickly and efficiently kill them off. Mites These microscopic monsters suck the juices out of the very cells of your petunias, this leads to the discolouration and hardening of flowers and can cause leaves to curl and cup. Mites are cousins of spiders, and this means they leave telltale webs behind them as they feed. If you notice these little trails, then treat your petunias with a spray of neem oil once a week until all signs of the mites have disappeared. Thrips Thrips can be difficult to see, but they have a similar appearance to ants. These nasty little things can carry viruses that are harmful to petunias and cause flowers to develop white spots and leaves to appear papery and weak. Thankfully, as with mites, neem oil can be employed to rid your plants of these pesky perpetrators. Powdery Mildew One of the most common reasons for powdery mildew to appear is plants being planted too close together. Avoiding planting too tightly at the outset to help prevent mildew from striking. If you do find yourself with a powdery mildew issue then, once again, neem oil applied weekly will help your petunias to become fighting fit once again. Root, Stem & Crown Rot Petunias planted in areas with poor drainage will frequently fall victim to root, stem and crown rot. With regular watering, leaves will wilt and stems will become fragile. Sadly, in most cases, the petunia won’t be able to be saved, and it may be better to pull them out and start again. You can try and correct the drainage problem but, if you see the damage, it probably means the problem is too far gone to be salvaged. Botrytis Blight This nasty little disease can be identified by post and discolouration on flowers and leaves, and will eventually produce grey-brown spores. This is another disease that thrives in wet bedding conditions so the best thing you can do is quit watering for a while. You should then prune the damaged areas of the plant and clear away any fallen debris. You can dry out the bed to prevent further infestation. Petunias are such rewarding plants, and their endless elegance and bountiful blooms have made them one of the most popular plants on the planet.
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Grow Happy And Healthy Campanula With These Care Guidelines From Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Campanula Propagation Soil Requirements Planting Plant Care Pruning Common Problems References Campanula, Latin for ‘Little Bell’, is a plant that brings a cascade of colour to any garden. It offers bold blues and purples, right the way through to proud pinks and whites. You’ll also hear this plant called the ‘Bellflower’, alluding to the bell shape the flowers take before opening. When they do eventually open, they reveal enticing star shapes, making Campanula a pleasure to look at throughout the year. Overview Botanical Name Campanula Common Name(s) Bellflower Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Temperate and subtropical northern hemisphere Hardiness Rating Mostly H5-H7 Foliage Some evergreen, some deciduous Flowers Bell-shaped flowers, often blue, purple, pink or white Flowering Months June, July, August Technically speaking, the term ‘Campanula’ refers to plants from the family Campanulaceae that are known as bellflowers.1 Other plants from the family include lady bells, harebells, and hundreds more. Campanula plants have a lot of versatility: some are deciduous, while others are evergreen; some are bushy, while others form clumps. C. carpatica You can find annual, biennial, and perennial varieties, ranging in size from 5cm to over 2 meters. None of the plants in this guide reaches quite that height, but more on that later. How To Grow Campanula Campanula is a relatively easy plant to introduce to a British garden. Its growing conditions are not particularly fussy, so as long as you take a bit of time to understand the best time and place to plant it out, you should be good to go. It’s very hardy, too – all varieties of Campanula sit between H5 and H7 on the RHS Hardiness scale – making them suitable for all but the harshest of climates in the British Isles. C. ‘Loddon Anna’ For the vast majority of British gardeners, these plants can therefore be grown as perennials. Propagation You can propagate most varieties of Campanula by division in spring and autumn, or by basal cuttings in spring. C. carpatica can be propagated by seed. It’s good to divide your plants every three years or so to prevent overcrowding. Soil Requirements Chalky, loamy soil suits all varieties of bellflower. Some types will take to soil with sand or chalk present, too. All varieties can grow in alkaline or neutral soil, and a few can tolerate mild acidity. In terms of drainage, this plant prefers moist but well-drained soil. Particularly sensitive varieties will require well-drained soil, but these are in the minority. Planting When To Plant The best time to plant bellflower is in spring – once the soil has started to warm after winter. To give your plants a head start you can grow them in seed trays, beginning a few weeks before the last frost is expected. Where To Plant There is no hard-and-fast rule for where to plant a bellflower. Some types – like ‘Stella’ – like exposure. Others (‘Loddon Anna’, ‘Prichard’s Variety’) prefer shelter. Others, still, can thrive in either condition. Because of this, different varieties prefer different aspects – it is best to understand which variety you have chosen to grow and the conditions it prefers. There is one trait all bellflowers share, however: none will thrive in full shade. Planting Out If you’re planting seeds directly into the garden, use a dibber to create a hole a couple of centimetres deep. Water thoroughly and stay attentive until seedlings start to appear. Planting from a division is easy, too: just dig a hole large enough for the plant and its root system, place it in, and cover it over. Make sure it is planted at the same depth as it was previously, as planting too deep can cause damage. Plant Care Bellflower responds well to a bit of compost in spring, then again in mid-summer, so just make sure you water thoroughly after each dressing. Mulching around the base of your plant will strengthen growth and maintain healthy soil conditions. Leave a couple of inches in diameter around the stems. Pruning Pruning requirements differ between bellflower varieties. With some – like the C. carpatica – you don’t need to prune at all. Others (‘Stella’) need to be cut back after flowering to maintain their optimal shape. Pruning other varieties will prevent them self-seeding, and will encourage a second wave of flowers after the first wave begins to dwindle. Common Problems You can minimise the likelihood of your plant contracting most diseases by keeping it generally healthy. This means: Keeping the soil well-watered, so the plant has moisture. Keeping the soil well-drained, so the plant doesn’t have too much moisture. Ensure enough access to sunlight. Leave space between plants to reduce density and overcrowding. Don’t use too much nitrogen in your fertiliser. Slugs & Snails No one likes slugs or snails, but sadly they like pretty much every plant in your garden. Both are active year-round and will munch unsightly holes in the leaves and stems of your bellflower plant. Keeping them at bay is the goal of all gardeners, but their prevalence makes it an ongoing job. You can use products like Nemaslug to target both, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “Nemalsug is a parasitic nematode in solution applied to the soil. Rather than a chemical action, this method of control uses a specific parasite to target slugs and snails. We are changing our thinking to regard slugs and snails as a part of the garden ecosystem instead of as pests, using targeted use of non-chemical controls or just accepting damage as the price of providing a food resource for other species.” Other gardeners create barriers of crushed up eggshell or attempt to make beer traps that will lure in and drown slugs and snails before they damage your garden. Aphids Another ubiquitous garden pest, aphids suck sap from plants they inhabit. They’re visible to the naked eye, so scanning your Campanula occasionally offers protection from unexpected infestation. You may also see symptoms of their sap-sucking first: curled or distorted leaves, black sooty moulds, and generally poor health. Other less pestilent bugs can keep aphids at bay, and at certain times of the year, this removes the need for any other intervention. If it’s the wrong time of year or you don’t trust these other bugs to keep things in check, pesticides can be deployed. Powdery Mildews If you find a coating of dusty white powder on the leaves of your Campanula, it may be a victim of powdery mildews. This disease is caused by fungal infection, and although many plants are susceptible, it’s interesting to note that the fungus is different in each case. The best way to prevent infection is to destroy infected leaves when they fall from the plant. This will get rid of the spores that cause infection, as will pruning out shoots that are infected. Various pesticides are available, too. Keeping the plant healthy will reduce the risk of powdery mildews. Rust This is a very common garden disease which will reduce your plant’s vitality, then, if left unchecked, gradually kill it off. It can affect leaves, stems, or flowers – so keep a careful eye on your whole Campanula plant. Removing affected leaves can help keep early infection at bay, but if you remove too many you’ll damage your plant. If things have progressed to this stage, fungicides can be used to prevent further spread. Make sure not to compost any infected material, as the spores are durable and may infect other parts of your garden. References 1. Introduction to the Campanulaceae. (n.d.). Bellflowers and Lobelias. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://ucmp.berkeley.edu/anthophyta/asterids/campanulaceae.html
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Specialist Begonia Growers Share Their Favourite Tips From The Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Begonia Care Temperature & Sunlight Soil Requirements Common Problems Begonia Origins References The ever-popular Begonia is not a single type of plant or flower – it is a genus comprising over 1,900 species and over 10,000 cultivars.1 Some gardeners may know Begonias as perennials; others as annuals. Flower lovers may go crazy about the vast variety of blossoms; foliage enthusiasts are equally fixated on fancy-leaf hybrids. In our Begonia guides we feature advice from Janeen Randle, President of the Melbourne Begonia Society. “My passion for growing begonias stems from the variety and colour in the flowers and the foliage,” says Janeen. “These plants produce long-lasting clusters of pendulous flowers with various leaf shapes that have interesting colouring, patterning and texture.” Overview Botanical Name Begonia Plant Type Annual / Perennial Flower Native Area South America, Central America, Central Africa and South Asia Hardiness Rating H1C-H3 (sometimes hardier) Foliage Varied genus Flowers Bright blooms in various colours When To Sow March, April, May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune June, July Begonias are herbaceous perennials in their native habitats in the tropical and sub-tropical regions of South America, Central America, Central Africa, and Southern Asia.2 Because they cannot survive a frost, most varieties are grown as annuals in the United Kingdom. However, some varieties can be grown indoors, besides in greenhouses, as perennials. For example, B. semperflorens or wax Begonias are effectively annuals in temperate regions but can live for several years in tropical climates or controlled environments. “If I was going to recommend a houseplant to a beginner, I’m drawn to the various different types of begonia,” shares Mr Plant Geek Michael Perry. B. masoniana AKA ‘Iron Cross’ “They can be a little fussy, as they don’t like to be over or underwatered, but they let you know in a simple way by just wilting a little. “You know then to just give them a little bit of water. You can’t get it wrong with them, they can be divas, but they are easily fixed. They also provide so much colour with their foliage.” Advances in Begonia horticulture occur at a dizzying pace. Wax and cane-like begonias would best be described as petite and cute varieties for beds and small pots, as these plants grow to about 15cm and no more than about 22cm at most. How things have changed! Newer cultivars are big, beautiful beasties; they average 40cm and the tallest reach a height of 85cm. What is more, they branch repeatedly so that besides being big, they are also broad and bushy. As for the blooms and the leaves, they are colourful, striking and vibrant. Habitat & Growing Conditions Begonia mazae f. nigricans For the most part, Begonias are understorey plants that grow in the cool and moist conditions of a rainforest canopy in their native habitats, for example, Cameroon and Malaysia. Some tuberous varieties thrive in dry and cool climes like those of the Peruvian Andes.3 Others grow in the wild on moist, shady slopes. Begonia habitats are the tropical and subtropical regions of South America, Central America, Central Africa, and Eastern Asia, with Southern China, Ecuador, and Cameroon being particular centres of diversity. B. maculata Other countries which boast their own brands of Begonias include Ecuador, Andean Peru, Brazil, Colombia, Venezuela, Mexico, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, India, Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo, Southern China, Vietnam, Philippines, and the Koreas. A few Begonias are native only to isolated areas in remote locations such as Sao Tome, the Bolivian Andes, and New Guinea; in contrast, Begonia cucullata grows freely across a huge swath of land in Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Uruguay. The famed Begonia rex cultivars originate from the species which is native to North-East India and Myanmar.4 B. ‘Doublet White’ Regardless of the species or cultivar, the flowers of this genus are monoecious, that is, a given flower on a plant is either female or male. Most varieties are hardy to H1C-H3. Begonia grandis, also known as the Hardy Begonia, is a well-known exception that is winter hardy in temperate regions, being hardy to H5/H6. Begonia Care Caring for Begonia, as one of the most diverse genera, can scarcely be described in a one-size-fits-all section. That said, three essential guidelines hold good for virtually the entire genus. These are: Begonias do not like strong, direct sunlight and do best in indirect or filtered sunlight or bright shade. They are susceptible to frost and must be protected from it. They do best with moderate and regular watering but are averse to wet soil. “Although Begonias do not like wet soil, they also don’t like getting dry and can drop their flowers if they do,” advises Horticulturist Colin Skelly, whose experience includes time as a Skilled Horticulturist and Nursery Manager. Everything else is a variation on these guidelines, apart from specific requirements, such as minimum winter temperatures. Temperature & Sunlight As understorey plants, Begonias generally prefer indirect or filtered sunlight, but stronger sunlight is necessary for Rex Begonia and its cultivars, keeping in mind that the darker-coloured the leaf, the more it can withstand strong sunlight. Most Begonias do well in temperatures of 18-25°C but fare well in warmer temperatures provided they are kept under shade or a natural canopy. Soil Requirements The best soil has a moderate to slightly acidic pH of 5.6-6.5 which is of a loose, rich, loamy type. “The aim is for the horticultural sweet spot of free draining but moisture-retentive soil,” says Colin Skelly. “Add some horticultural grit to your compost to make sure that the compost drains freely and consider using pot feet to aid free drainage.” Begonia aconitifolia Compost may be mixed with the soil; it should preferably contain coir but be free of peat. Common Problems Begonias can become infested by mealybugs and aphids. You can treat either and both by using products like Safer’s soap according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Aphids are a particular menace because of their rapid breeding and harmfulness. Mealybugs on outdoor plants can be eliminated using nature to fight nature. Release ladybugs, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers on the affected plants. These are beneficial insects that prey upon mealybugs. Rex Begonias are particularly susceptible to nematodes. While many nematodes are beneficial and even kill harmful insects, some are parasites that dwell in soil and destroy plants. Garden centres usually stock some products for nematode infestation. A few natural methods exist to eliminate nematodes, such as raising the soil temperature by sealing it off, but these cannot be used on soil inhabited by plants. One semi-natural remedy that can be used to put down a nematode infestation is to put naptha mothballs on the soil, and water plants as usual. Begonias, especially saplings and young plants, are delicacies for snails and slugs so be on the lookout for them and remove or eliminate them promptly so that their numbers do not get out of hand. While waterlogged soil is harmful to almost all plants, even damp soil poses a threat to tuberous Begonia varieties as dampness can bring about rot. Ensure that the soil is drained well and put containers on tiles or wedges so they are off the ground. Although Begonias like some humidity, avoid misting them and do not expose them to overly humid environments to prevent mildew, as Jane Perrone, houseplant expert, explains: “Lots of begonias really like humidity which you can check with a humidity meter. They like a humidity of around 50%, so it is a good plant for a bathroom or something similar. “Begonias don’t like dry air, so don’t place them next to a radiator.” Begonia Origins Begonia brevirimosa The well-known name of one of the most popular plant families memorialises quite an unknown gentleman. Way back in the 1600s, a French ancien regime official by the name of Michel V Bégon served in various ‘intendant’ positions in France’s colonies in the Caribbean. This gentleman was passionate about plants and when he met with naturalist and botanist Charles Plumier, the latter was so impressed with the good intendant that he named a new genus after Monsieur Bégon.5 References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.-b). Begonia species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/ab/Begonia 2. An Introduction to Begonia Species. (2021, December 20). The American Begonia Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.begonias.org/introduction-to-begonia-species/ 3. Moonlight, P. W., & Reynel, C. (2018). Two new species of Begonia from Andean Peru. Phytotaxa, 381(1). https://doi.org/10.11646/phytotaxa.381.1.15 4. Begonia rex Putz. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:105573-1 5. Schumaker, P. (2020, February 13). The plant named after Michel Begon. UF/IFAS Extension Charlotte County. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/charlotteco/2020/02/17/the-plant-named-after-michel-begon/
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How To Grow Lupins - Traditional, Timeless Classics With Towering Spires
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Lupin Varieties How To Grow Lupins Lupin Care Propagation Common Problems References Say hello to what may be one of the most easily recognisable plants in the UK. Lupins are traditional, timeless classics that have been a firm favourite among British gardeners for over a century. These striking, stately plants, characterised by their towering spires, come in every imaginable colour – as well as a range of sizes – making them a real statement in any garden. Overview Botanical Name Lupinus Common Name(s) Lupins Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Americas, North Africa, Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Palmate leaves Flowers Colourful, pea-like flowers When To Sow February, March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune July, August The name means “wolf” in Latin, because in times gone by it was believed that Lupins “wolfed” minerals and nutrients from the soil.1 And happily, it’s since been discovered that this myth bears no truth. In fact, Lupins aid soil by boosting nitrogen levels, and as a result, they’re commonly referred to as a “green manure” by gardeners.2 The hardy, boastful Lupinus – the Latin name for the plant – is a member of the pea family, although you’d be forgiven for not guessing that when you look at the flower. It’s prolific, too: there are over 200 species worldwide, some of which grow to a whopping five feet tall when in flower.3 Lupin Varieties Most varieties of Lupin are perennial, although this is not universally the case. In this guide we refer exclusively to the perennial member of the Lupin family. ‘Towering Inferno’ The name really says it all! This variety grows up to 90cm tall, and boasts vigorous, flaming orange bells, making it a bold statement in any garden. Flowering in summer and with gorgeous mid-bright green leaves, this plant is sure to make your garden pop. ‘Polar Princess’ While this might sound more like a character from a Disney film than a garden plant, this variety is worth getting to know. This radiant Lupin bears pure white, delicately scented flowers that bring a royal flourish to any flower bed. Blooming late into summer this variety epitomises country cottage living. ‘Manhattan Lights’ Another early-season variety, this showy Lupin is adorned by sweetly scented purple and yellow flowers. Gracing the garden from late spring to early summer, its gorgeous, decadent colours will be the envy of all your neighbours. ‘Dwarf Pink Fairy’ (Annual) With its short stature, this annual Lupin is perfect for garden borders. A soft pink, free-flowering variety that blooms all the way from early June to late August. It has lovely green, bushy foliage and in the evenings its delightful, sweet-pea scent will linger in the air. How To Grow Lupins Now you’ve seen just how varied and beautiful Lupins can be, you’re probably keen to get them going in your garden. This plant really is a vital ingredient for the quintessential British garden, so thankfully they are fairly easy to grow. These hardy plants are also inexpensive and wonderfully reliable. Here’s how to bring plant them out. Soil Requirements Lupins do not grow well in clay or chalky soil – they much prefer soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. Moist, well-drained soil is recommended as the optimum, but they will tolerate most garden conditions. Water-logged soil, however, is unsuitable and will most likely lead to rot. Where To Grow Lupins are sun worshipers, but they also enjoy cool soil. Positioning newly planted flowers where they will receive full sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon will give them the best of both worlds, and help them to survive the summer heat. Don’t plant in full shade: they won’t thrive. This plant likes a bit of space to thrive and lends itself well to being grown in a garden border more than a narrow flower bed. We don’t recommend planting Lupins in containers where possible, because this leads to less strong growth and can leave them more susceptible to aphids (more on these fellas later). Growing From Seed Lupins do not come true to seed, so if you plant seeds from a packet your lupins are likely to grow in a range of colours. We advise soaking the seed the night before planting to encourage germination. For the best chance of survival, sow in a seed tray from February to September, and keep this in a greenhouse or on a windowsill. Leave them until they have four leaves, then plant out into the garden. Once planted, water them once then leave them to find water on their own. They prefer to be kept just below room temperature (15-20°C) and, when conditions are correct, will sprout about two weeks from planting. Growing From Cuttings Lupins grown from cuttings will be the same as their parent plants, so if you want a particular variety this is the only way to go. If you’re taking a cutting, aim for a basal cutting (shoots of around 10cm growing near the base) taken in March or April. This plant puts out a strong system of roots, so for the best prospects, it’s worth planting them out while they’re as young as possible. They’re quite hardy and can withstand growing outside right away. “For the best cutting compost, I add one-part perlite to two-parts fine peat-free compost (normally compost sweepings from my potting shed floor),” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. Planting Although there is some leeway with when to plant (we mentioned February to September for sowing earlier), Lupins tend to do best when sown in early March, hardened off in late April and planted out in early May. If you are harvesting seeds, this should be done in late summer, around early August. Before sowing, seeds can be soaked for 24 hours in a small amount of water. Though this isn’t necessary, it can help them to start growing more quickly. Lupin Care Lupins are diligent food-finders and don’t need any special feed. In fact, adding high-nitrogen plant feed can make them grow too much, and increase the risk of attracting the aphids we mentioned earlier. In winter, Lupin care is just a case of doing… nothing! They will die back, then new shoots will appear in spring with no intervention required. This really is a hardy and self-sufficient plant – perhaps one of the reasons it’s become such a staple in British gardens. Pruning This plant has a longer recovery time than some others, so we advise against chopping back too hard after flowering. It is important to deadhead a well-flowering Lupin, however, as growing lots of seeds will drain energy and vitality from the parent plant. Propagation Most Lupins have a life cycle of six to ten years, depending on growing conditions. So the time may very well come when you need to propagate your existing plants to ensure their continued presence in your garden. Thankfully, this type of plant can grow successfully from cuttings (see above) and, if you have a delicate hand, through division. Dividing Division is a bit harder, and is not necessarily recommended unless you are a very experienced gardener. Because of the structure of their roots, Lupins are prone to damage by division. Instead, we recommend growing a new plant from seed or cutting is advised for the best likelihood of a healthy plant. Common Problems Lupins are fairly hardy, but there are a few things to keep your eyes peeled for. Slugs & Snails The perpetual bane of any gardener’s life, Lupins are not spared from the incessant attention of these garden pests. A humane way to keep slugs and snails away is to create a garlic spray, and coat the leaves of your Lupin. “I was very dubious about the use of garlic sprays to deter slugs and snails, but some convincing studies have shown it is effective if you apply it regularly,” says Dan. “Knowing how regularly is a matter of trial and error, but those who have had success often apply a spray when they struggle to smell the garlic on the plant.” Young plants are especially prone to getting munched, so remain especially vigilant for the first couple of years. Giant Lupin Aphids Another hungry pest, aphids are keen to get their teeth into your Lupins. Once a colony takes hold of a plant they can cause it to wilt, they can be hard to dislodge. This is what you’re looking for: small, white aphids that swarm the stem of the plant. Gently rubbing leaves to remove them – or spraying with a stream of water that’s not too powerful – can do the trick, as can a variety of pesticides. Personally we recommend the former. Lupin Anthracnose While slugs and aphids are creatures, anthracnose is a fungal disease that can wreak havoc with your Lupins. It is not usually fatal but can cause a lot of damage from dieback. Dead, brown areas, slimy orange spores, and coiled leaves are telltale symptoms of anthracnose. Removing and destroying damaged leaves, and planting your Lupins so that air can flow freely around them are two ways of controlling and preventing this condition. Brown Spot This creatively named condition gives Lupins – you guessed it – brown spots. It’s caused by spores in the soil your plant is growing in, so moving the plant is the best way to prevent further damage. Once you’ve moved it, avoid planting any other Lupins in that spot for a few years – this will give the spores a chance to die off. Lupins have been popular in British gardens for generations, and with good reason. They’re hardy, versatile, varied, and, almost universally, beautiful. They’re easy to look after, resistant to weather, and although threatened by a few diseases and pests, many plants will live to maturity with little issue. References 1. Definition of lupine. (2023). In Merriam-Webster Dictionary. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/lupine 2. Maron, J., & Connors, P. (1996). A native nitrogen-fixing shrub facilitates weed invasion. Oecologia, 105(3), 302–312. https://doi.org/10.1007/bf00328732 3. Lupines (Genus Lupinus). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/47121-Lupinus
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How To Grow Rudbeckia 'Black Eyed Susan' For Abundant, Long-Lasting And Reliable Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Plant Care Habitat & Growing Conditions Container Growing How To Grow Rudbeckia References Rudbeckia, commonly known as ‘Black Eyed Susan’ is a plant you have probably seen before, although you may not have known it by name. Its familiarity is down to the fact that this lovely sunshine yellow bright flower is commonly found growing wild in fields and meadows throughout the UK and USA. It is a native species of North America and, you possibly won’t be surprised to hear, a fully-paid up member of the sunflower family.1 “Rudbeckia tops the list of my favourite plants for its abundant, long-lasting and hugely reliable flowers, which open like small sunflowers in a domed mass,” says Matt Collins, a Garden Writer. “Provided it gets a good dose of sunshine, it’s just the most rewarding and unfussy of plants, with long-stemmed blooms that also make fantastic cut flowers.” This pretty daisy-like bloom with its yellow petals and dark inner circle (hence the name) is actually a pretty powerful plant. So powerful, in fact, that it will tend to eventually outgrow most other plants in its wake. Butterflies and bees use it for nectar – other garden animals including birds also feed on the seed heads. This is another reason why the plant is so prevalent – the birds and insects spread them as they fly back to their nest (with the seeds as food). “It’s a plant that a lot of people don’t love, but the Rudbeckia genus is one of my favourite species of plant,” shares Lee Burkhill, the Garden Ninja. “It flowers in late summer with typical daisy flowers that are bright and light up a garden. People love it or hate it because its colours are so intense. “It will pretty much tolerate every soil, so for new gardeners, it is great.” Overview Botanical Name Rudbeckia Common Name(s) Black Eyed Susan, Coneflower Plant Type Perennial Flower / Annual Flower Native Area North America Hardiness Rating Mostly H4-H6 Foliage Herbaceous, simple or pinnately divided leaves Flowers Daisy-like flowers, yellow for perennial types, other colours for annuals and biennials Flowering Months June, July, August, September Rudbeckia isn’t just grown wild, of course; you will also find it in gardens up and down the country where it is often used for creating colourful and attractive borders. In addition, its cheerfully bright blooms are also a favourite of many high-street florists. “I love to photograph Rudbeckias, which often have contrasting velvety textures that make you want to touch them,” shares award-winning Garden Photographer Molly Hollman. With both summer annual and perennial varieties, Rudbeckia comes in a number of different types and beautiful jewel-like colours. You will certainly find blooms appearing in shades associated with an Indian Summer, such as gold, orange, rust and yellow. ‘Chocolate Orange’ New hybrid versions are equally as colourful and arresting with their shades of emerald green and bright pink. In essence, Rudbeckia is a very pretty flower which is colourful, easy to grow and low-maintenance. The plant self-propagates so even if you leave it be, chances are it would still bloom prolifically in your garden. ‘Cherokee Sunset’ As a result, it is loved by the majority of gardeners, both amateurs and experienced types on both sides of the Atlantic. “Perennial Rudebckias are a mainstay of herbaceous borders and are particularly popular in prairie style and matrix planting with grasses,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “They are well suited to naturalistic planting, and the range of sizes and colours makes them popular for other styles of planting too. “Rudbeckia is prone to slugs and snails when a young plant, but is more robust when established.” Plant Care Although Rudbeckia is capable of withstanding drought conditions, the flowers will grow better if they are watered when necessary. In other words, it is really not a good idea to let them dry out – not, that is, if you want to see them flourishing and brightening up your borders. ‘Toto’ Dividing older plants doesn’t just ensure you have healthier blooms, but that there isn’t too much spreading through self-seeding. Habitat & Growing Conditions Rudbeckia should always be planted in the sunniest spot in your garden. Or, if that’s not available then in a spot that has some shade, but also access to the sun at times. The soil is important too; preferably moist but not susceptible to becoming waterlogged following periods of intense rain. Heavier soil can be used, provided you surround the plant’s roots with plenty of good compost. Container Growing Make sure your container pot is at least 45cm wide and 30cm deep. It should also have plenty of decent-sized drainage holes at the bottom. This will ensure that the soil will remain moist but not waterlogged (as this would kill-off the plant). Any type of decent multipurpose compost is fine. Feed after two weeks then every three to four weeks after this. Incidentally, one of the best varieties of Rudbeckia to grow in containers is ‘Toto’, the dwarf version, since it doesn’t need as much room as the others. How To Grow Rudbeckia Start growing the seeds in a greenhouse or at least indoors, during the months of February, March and April. R. ‘Irish Eyes’ Expect to wait up to three weeks for them to germinate. Then, as they grow either thin them out to around 30cm space in between or put them into pots. Finally, move them into their final positions when the root balls are strong and large enough to transfer. If you’ve tried both methods of growing (directly planting into the soil and transplanting), then you have probably noticed that directly sown seeds will often not flower until their second year, while transplanted rootballs will bloom within the first 12 months. References 1. Rudbeckia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:329766-2
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Osteospermum - Grow And Care For Your African Daisies With These Practical Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Osteospermum Plant Care Buying Osteospermum References Plain and simple in structure, vivid and dazzling in colour, Osteospermum AKA ‘African Daisy’ has come out of Africa and into Britain; from the savannah to the garden. It has come out of nowhere into a rising arc of popularity – and why not? This flowering plant not only brings riotous good cheer, it is easy to grow and equally easy to maintain. Is it a subshrub or a shrub? A perennial or an annual? Single or clustered? Hard to pin down, the African Daisy is all of those! Overview Botanical Name Osteospermum Common Name(s) African Daisies Plant Type Perennial Flower / Annual Flower Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Toothed, hairy leaves Flowers Daisy-like central disks with flat and narrow petals When To Sow May, June Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March, April, August, September Osteospermum species are perennials but the plant has been hybridised and cultivated for ornamental uses and most cultivars are treated as annuals. In the United Kingdom whether one or another Osteospermum is regarded as a ‘perennial’ or an ‘annual’ simply depends on whether or not it can survive a British winter and/or is allowed to do so. O. ecklonis and O. jucundum are two species which can, and, therefore, can be and often are ‘perennials’ in the UK. Though Osteospermum as an annual is rarely woody as when it is a perennial it grows to be a shrub. Usually one stalk bears a single flower but some cultivars produce lush clusters of flowers on a stem. The flowers comprise of a prominent central disk – the disk floret – and the petals – the ray floret. Most varieties’ petals are typically flat and narrow but some have curled, spoon-shaped petals. O. jucundum ‘Langtrees’ Osteospermum should not be confused with the related plant Dimorphotheca but it often is. Habitat & Growing Conditions The African Daisy’s natural habitat is the veldts, savannahs, and grasslands of Africa where they grow in relatively light soil and even poor soil.1 They are also found in and near dry forests. Their species – as opposed to most cultivars – thrive in sub-tropical regions with high humidity and also in humid warm-temperate regions. “I find the more hardy Osteospermum are cheerful additions to gravel gardens or rockeries, as long as they’re watered well to establish them,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Their bold, flat flowers pair well with more frothy upright forms such as grasses, Nepeta, or lavender. Alternatively, they have enough impact on their own to fill a container with joy.” How To Grow Osteospermum Plant seeds indoors in containers 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Cover seeds with only the barest sprinkling of soil – ideally vermiculite – as they need light to germinate. Water them twice a week initially and then as described below. Seedlings will sprout in about 2 weeks; water at the ground level and not on the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Transplanting Seedlings can be transplanted into beds after the last frost. Transplant seedlings about 25cm apart. It may be late summer before seed-grown plants produce flowers. Established plants or store-bought plants will bloom earlier, from early summer or, depending on the variety, late spring. Most varieties will bloom in all their glory from May to early July but after that, as summer sizzles, the daisies dwindle unless deadheaded. Where To Plant The African Daisy is best shown off in sheets and swaths of flowering plants, mimicking how it occurs in nature, instead of in ones or twos. On patios and decks, a line of containers of bright-coloured cultivars set along the edge or on the parapet will bring low-key ornamental value to your enclosure. African Daisy can be used to line or edge walkways and pathways – try alternating patches with varieties in soft or pastel shades, say whites and pinks or yellows and purples. You can also use these plants to border beds whose centrepieces are showier or rarer flowers; to do so, use varieties of shorter height and complimentary, gentle colours. Finally, you can set loose an assortment of varieties and a gamut of colours in a good-sized vacant patch of your yard, being sure that no matter which ones you plant the results will bring merriment and good cheer. The open, uncomplicated structure of the flower combined with the colours that range from soothing, pastel shades to bold, vibrant hues make Osteospermum a top choice for floral arrangements, specifically mass arrangements, and also for larger bouquets. It is not recommended for emphasis or balance but is an excellent pick to achieve proportion, harmony, or rhythm. Plant Care Soil Requirements While African Daisies appreciate good soil, they grow happily enough in almost any old soil. Most varieties are unfussy, low-maintenance plants – all they need is regular watering but mature plants can make do even when dry as they simply go dormant, springing back to life when they get water. As a native of Africa, African Daisies grow well enough in sandy, chalky, and even stony soils, which is not to say that they should be grown in such soils. They need loose, light soils without much in the way of clay or manure. Thankfully, they’re unfussy when it comes to pH. Watering Mature specimens can tolerate a dry spell for a while but not waterlogged ground so make certain that your soil is well-drained. Moist soil, however, works well for the plant. Water a transplanted plant every two or three days for the first fortnight, then twice a week for the next fortnight, and then once a week. Sunlight & Temperature Though it may seem counter-intuitive for a genus of African origin, the plants do not do well in high heat, and cultivars in particular are averse to high humidity. In fact, most Osteospermums like coolish summers which lead to profuse blooming. ‘Sunny Mary’ However, these plants prefer full sun. Feeding You can increase the likelihood of plentiful and robust blooms by feeding African Daisies a sprinkling of organic fertiliser high in potassium every three weeks just before and during the flowering season. This is especially important if they’re grown in containers. Buying Osteospermum Osteospermum’s continuing rise in popularity is matched by a corresponding increase in its availability. Most nurseries and garden centres have ready stocks in an array of varieties. Potted plants, as well as seeds, are available online. Horticultural specialists sell established Osteospermum varieties as well as their own brand-new cultivars through their own websites. Instead of buying, you can ‘make’ new African Daisy plants yourself by propagating them through cuttings from late spring to late summer. References 1. Osteospermum hyoseroides. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:235817-1
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