Growing
Divide Alstroemeria Tubers In 4 Steps To Reduce Overcrowding And Produce New Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Why Divide Alstroemeria? When To Divide Alstroemeria How To Divide Alstroemeria Tubers 1) Lift The Plant From The Soil 2) Prepare the Root Ball 3) Separate The Tubers 4) Replant As Quickly As Possible Planting Considerations Dividing Alstroemeria tubers is an easy garden job. Like other perennials, Alstroemerias can be divided to reduce overcrowding and propagate new plants. Why Divide Alstroemeria? There are two main reasons why you should divide Alstroemerias (and other clump-forming perennial plants). The first reason is to clear space and reduce overcrowding in a bed or border, or to stop a mature plant from outgrowing its container. The second reason is, of course, to propagate your plant, and obtain new plants for your garden. Propagation by division is the easiest way to get new Alstroemeria plants, since these plants are not easy to grow from seed. If you collect your own seeds then the plants you grow may not look the same as their parent. Plants grown from seed will also take several years to flower. When you divide Alstroemeria, you will obtain a number of plants immediately, each of which will be an exact copy of the parent plant. These new plants can also be placed in new containers, or elsewhere in your garden right away. Dividing plants is a great way to make new plants to fill new areas in your garden and to improve existing growing areas. When To Divide Alstroemeria Alstroemerias are best divided in April, though you may also undertake the task in May. While other summer flowering plants can often also be divided in autumn, between September and November, this is not the best time to divide Alstroemeria tubers because they can be a little tender. Also, because the new plants must be planted right away, spring sowing gets them the easiest start. If your Alstroemeria is growing in a bed or border, among other perennial plants, it is best to think about dividing your clumps every 2-3 years or so, even if you are not in need of new plants. This ensures that the plants remain healthy and flowering well, and will also help to prevent overcrowding in the growing area. How To Divide Alstroemeria Tubers A little more care is required when dividing Alstroemeria tubers than is required when dividing many other perennial plants, but it is still a relatively easy job. 1) Lift The Plant From The Soil Alstroemerias have fragile roots and they may not cope well with any damage, so it is very important to be as careful as possible at this stage. Place a garden fork or spade into the soil at some distance from the base of the plant. Then gently lever to raise the plant out slowly, easing it out of the soil (or container as shown in our case). 2) Prepare the Root Ball Now that the root ball is above ground, carefully examine it. Gently knock off excess soil so that you can see the tubers clearly. Again, be very careful not to damage the roots. You will note that the tubers are tangled together into a clump. 3) Separate The Tubers As you examine the root ball, you can now gently begin to disentangle individual tubers from the clump. At this stage, you will have to decide how many new plants you wish to make from this parent plant. Often, you will be able to simply tease the tubers apart by hand. Occasionally, you may wish to use a sharp knife to separate roots that are particularly enmeshed, though this is not usually required. 4) Replant As Quickly As Possible The key thing to remember about Alstroemeria tubers is that, unlike tubers of many other plants, they will not store well. You need to make sure that you replant your divisions as soon as possible, either into containers or a suitable spot in your garden. Colin Skelly advises: “When you are dividing more than one cultivar, make sure that you label your pots straight away.” “Once plants are mixed up there is no way to know which is which until they next flower – by which time it is too late to move them.” Remember, as mentioned above, Alstroemerias require reasonably fertile soil, which is free draining, in a sunny and sheltered spot. If using containers, these should be filled with John Innes No. 2 compost or a homemade equivalent. Planting Considerations Alstroemeria plants should be replanted to the same depth that they were at in the previous location or container. Simply bury the tubers and leave any shoots sticking up above the surface of the soil or growing medium. Divisions of tubers should be planted to a depth of around 15cm. Mulching around the plants with organic matter to add fertility, reduce moisture loss and suppress weeds to a degree can be a good idea. However, make sure that the mulch does not actually touch the base of the plants. The divisions should begin to produce new growth and flowers within 15 weeks. Be patient and do not be tempted to give up on your tubers if you are worried that they are not yet growing. Wait for at least four months before determining that something has gone wrong. Keep the area moist but do not overwater – the tubers can rot in damp soil and prolonged waterlogged conditions. Remember that more watering will be required when growing in containers.
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7 Essential Steps For Protecting Plants In Winter That Every Gardener Should Know
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose Winter-Hardy Plants 2) Grow In A Greenhouse Or Polytunnel 3) Create A Frost-Free Micro-Climate 4) Cover Plants With Row Covers, Cloches Or Fabric 5) Use Mulches To Protect Plant Roots 6) Use Thermal Mass To Protect Plants From Frost 7) Make A Hotbed To Provide Heat From Below References If you want to enjoy a beautiful and productive garden year-round, considering how to protect plants from winter frosts is important. One of the first things we learn as gardeners is that different plants have different growing needs. And becoming a better gardener means building up a body of knowledge about the environmental needs of different plants. As you grow as a gardener, you will learn which plants can come through the winter months unscathed where you live, and which might need a little help and protection. In this article, we’ll take a look at how to protect plants from frost in winter. 1) Choose Winter-Hardy Plants Before we begin to look at some different solutions to keep plants safe from winter frosts, it is worth mentioning that sometimes, the best solution can be the simplest one. For a successful winter garden, and for a low maintenance scheme that can look great in your garden year after year, it can be a good idea to simply choose plants that can withstand winter temperatures and chilly conditions where you live. There are a wide range of fully hardy plants which will withstand winter in the UK without you needing to take any additional measures at all. When we talk about winter-hardy plants, it is worthwhile mentioning that some will be evergreen, and remain in leaf and look good without being damaged by frosts. Heuchera is highly tolerant of frosty conditions Others will die back over winter, but retain happy and healthy root systems that remain undamaged by frost below the soil in a dormant state, before then bursting into life in the spring. These (usually woody) plants have specially evolved to overwinter as underground storage organs or seeds to hide away during cold periods.1 Choosing the right plants for the right places might mean that you do not need to take any additional measures to protect plants from frost in winter. It is also worth mentioning that if you have a vegetable plot or kitchen garden, exposure to frost can actually be beneficial rather than detrimental for certain crops. Brassicas, members of the cabbage family, parsnips and other root crops, and leeks, for example – will actually taste sweeter and better after they have been exposed to freezing conditions.2 2) Grow In A Greenhouse Or Polytunnel However, there are of course plenty of more tender plants which will benefit from winter protection. Growing undercover in a greenhouse or polytunnel structure is one key way to protect plants from winter frosts. Container plants can be brought inside such a structure during the winter to protect them from the cold (and wet) of winter. And there are a range of vegetables that can be grown in a greenhouse all year-round here in the UK. An unheated greenhouse or polytunnel can often remain frost-free over winter in the UK. Even without additional heating, it can be a very useful addition for home growing. A cold frame can be handy if you don’t have space for a full-sized structure. A cold frame For even more tender or exotic plants, you can also consider heating an undercover growing area to provide even less chilly conditions. “For some half-hardy species, such as succulents like Echeveria and Agave, it can be enough to provide a winter shelter outdoors,” adds RHS Master of Horticulture Colin Skelly. “A sheet of perspex or opaque insulated sheet, for example, supported above the plant/s will provide shelter from the worst winter wet. “It is the combination of cold and wet over time, in UK conditions for example, that can lead to damage. “[Plants] will still need individual protection, such as fleece, in the coldest spells but a shelter should avoid the need to move or heat them.” There are many sustainable ways to do so, including with hot water or ground-source heating, or with solar-powered electric heaters, for example. 3) Create A Frost-Free Micro-Climate A sheltered garden protected from the elements If you do not have space for, or don’t really want a greenhouse or polytunnel, there are other ways to protect plants from frost in winter. Some interesting solutions involve thinking about how you can alter the environmental conditions in your garden to create a more sheltered, warmer, and potentially frost-free micro-climate. Where you place plants can have a bearing on the micro-climate in your garden – especially when you consider larger plants like trees and shrubs. Placing trees and shrubs in the right places can shelter your garden from freezing winds and protect other plants from frost. However, it is also worth noting that to protect plants from frost, it might be helpful to make changes to the existing vegetation, to help alter the micro-climate conditions in beneficial ways. For example, you might open up a tree canopy to the south to let in more sunlight to keep things warmer in winter, or you might create gaps in boundary hedges across a slope, to drain cold air from a frost pocket. A frost pocket is formed by topographical features, trees and other features of the environment. This is an area that is considerably colder than other spots in your garden in winter, gets frosty earliest, and is slowest to warm in spring. Sometimes it is possible to alleviate these frost pockets – sometimes it is simply best to avoid planting anything which may be damaged by frosts in these areas. Simply planting tender plants in a different part of your garden could help protect them from frost in winter. 4) Cover Plants With Row Covers, Cloches Or Fabric Cabbage seedlings Another option to consider is covering beds or individual plants. You can use a range of different row covers, cloches or fabric covers such as horticultural fleece or reclaimed textiles to do so. Often, you can use reclaimed materials to make row covers and cloches that might otherwise have been thrown away. “Wrap up your tenderer plants in fleece,” shares Caroline, one of The 3 Growbags. “There are some good jackets on the market to buy or you can make your own.” Plastic bottles are commonly used to create a ‘greenhouse-like’ effect for plants Using milk containers as small individual cloches is just one simple example. A cane or thin branch through the handle and inserted into the soil will keep these in place. Covering beds can be a good idea in a vegetable garden, since it will provide some winter protection and allow you to make use of your growing areas all year round. Covers can make all the difference for tender plants You might use row covers, for example, to protect winter sowings of overwintering peas or broad beans, root crops, brassicas, or other more hardy leafy greens. You may be surprised by the difference a simple cover can make, and the variety of crops it allows you to overwinter in your garden. Individual ‘hot boxing’ plant covers 5) Use Mulches To Protect Plant Roots Vegetable bed with strawberries and garlic covered with mulch Another thing to remember is that plants do not necessarily have to be covered in their entirety to keep them safe from frost. Often, it is the roots of a plant that require winter protection, not the above-ground portion of the plant. “Take a day out in late Autumn and prepare your plants by dumping a good mulch of dung on your perennials,” says Caroline. As Caroline suggests, to prevent root damage during cold winters, thick carbon-rich organic mulches can help. Simply lay straw, bracken or dried leaves in a thick layer around the base of vulnerable, or shallow-rooted plants to keep them safe from frost in winter. This can be a good strategy, for example, with autumn-sown onions and garlic. Mulching well around these winter crops can ensure that they get off to a good start when spring arrives. 6) Use Thermal Mass To Protect Plants From Frost Using thermal mass for an indoor vegetable garden Whether you are growing outdoors or in a greenhouse or polytunnel, regulating temperature and protecting plants from frost involves an understanding of thermal mass. Thermal mass relates to the capacity of a material to catch and store the sun’s heat energy.3 Materials with high thermal mass like stone, brick, ceramics/clay, earth and water absorb the sun’s heat during the day – then release it slowly when temperatures fall. This is one reason why it can be beneficial to place more tender plants beside a sunny south-facing stone or brick wall. Moving tender container plants close to a thermally massive sunny surface could help keep them safe from frost. Outdoors, you can also protect tender plants by placing a wall with thermal mass around them. You might use stones or bricks as bed edging, for example. You can also build a protective wall around tender plants using bottles or other containers filled with water, which can heat up a little during the day and keep plants a little warmer at night. Adding thermal mass is also a good idea when building a greenhouse or polytunnel. A sunken polytunnel with covering to protect against frost You might, for example, create a sunken greenhouse, or partially earth-sheltered structure, to take advantage of the thermal mass of the soil. You could also build a greenhouse up against a south-facing wall on your home, or even integrate a greenhouse into your home. Clever design of an undercover growing area can help you keep it reliably frost-free without having to resort to any additional heating, even in colder areas. If you already have a greenhouse or polytunnel, you can add additional frost protection by adding thermal mass in edging, pathways or staging. Of course, you can also improve the insulation by adding an extra layer of plastic (or bubble wrap) inside the outer skin. Or simply use some of the other strategies mentioned above for your plants grown undercover as well as those growing outdoors. 7) Make A Hotbed To Provide Heat From Below A hotbed garden structure One final interesting option to consider to protect plants over the winter months is to provide a natural heat source. Rather than introducing additional space heating, you can consider taking advantage of the heat given off by organic materials as they decompose. A hotbed is a raised bed filled with layers of compostable materials (often straw and manure) and topped with a layer of compost or soil. Tender seedlings and other tender plants will love the gentle heat from below. Using a hotbed, especially in conjunction with some form of cover, can help you nurture plants through the winter months unscathed. References 1. Govaerts, R. (n.d.). How did plants evolve frost hardiness? Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/plant-frost-hardiness 2. Voyle, G. (2016, September 20). Can I harvest garden vegetables after a frost? MSU Extension. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/can_i_harvest_garden_vegetables_after_a_frost 3. Reardon, C. (2013). Thermal mass. Your Home. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.yourhome.gov.au/passive-design/thermal-mass
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Plant A Bulb Lasagne (Layer Them In Stages) For Incredible Mixed Displays
IN THIS GUIDE The Purpose Of A Bulb Lasagne Choosing A Container Choosing Your Growing Medium When To Plant A Bulb Lasagne How To Plant Your Bulbs Aftercare Where To Place A Bulb Lasagne Choosing Plants For A Bulb Lasagne Largest / Latest Flowering Medium Sized / Mid-Flowering Small / Earliest-Flowering Planting a bulb lasagne will help you cook up the recipe for successional blooms in your garden. A ‘bulb lasagne’ is the name sometimes given to layering bulbs, either in a container or in a planter or small raised bed. Largest, latest flowering bulbs go in the deepest layer of your lasagne, with more, earlier flowers above them, up to the earliest flowering bulbs near the top. With two tiers of bulbs, this is sometimes called ‘double-decker’ planting. However, you can sometimes stretch this and have three layers (and occasionally even four). This is a simple gardening job that you can enjoy with children. It is very easy whether you are a complete gardening novice, or someone far more experienced looking to try out some new combinations or varieties of bulbs. The Purpose Of A Bulb Lasagne A mixed container of bulbs with Hyacinths, Narcissus ‘Thalia’ and Tulips Just as layering plants above the ground is a great idea to make the most of your space, so too is layering bulbs below the soil (or potting mix). Layering bulbs in the same container can help you make sure that you make the most of your space and have flowers for visual appeal (and for bees and other pollinators) over as long a period as possible. By layering spring (or summer) bulbs, corms and tubers in pots, you can ensure that the flowers bloom successionally. You can choose your bulbs carefully so that each flower is coming into bloom just as the latter begins to fade. “Growing early tulips and daffodils that are then replaced by frothy summer displays of Gypsophilia and grasses in pots is a great container garden idea,” shares Gardener Elliott Beveridge. Spring bulbs are particularly useful in a garden, because they can often provide early blooms when there are few other flowers around for pollinators. They can also fill in gaps in an ornamental planting scheme before summer flowering plants take over the display. “Never go for a single layer!” advise the experts at BULBi, a UK nursery and supplier of hundreds of bulb varieties. “At the bottom, plant the taller types like tulips, in the middle, plant bulbs like daffodils and hyacinths and, at the top layer, plant smaller varieties like crocus or muscari. “This way, you can enjoy a blooming pot all spring long!” Choosing A Container The size of container required will depend on which bulbs you would like to grow, and also, of course, how much space is available. Typically, however, the larger a container you can manage, the more effective and dramatic the display will be. Spring flowers often look best when grown in clumps or drifts with as many of them as possible. “Bulbs can rot faster in a pot,” the experts at BULBi remind us. “Make sure there is a hole in the bottom so excess water can drain away and fill the pot with hydro grains first, or, if you don’t have that in the house, shards or grit are fine too.” In terms of depth, you need to make sure that you have the space to accommodate the planting depth of the bulbs on your lowest tier, plus at least 10cm below that for their root systems. Typically, a pot or container at least 50cm deep and 30cm wide will be best. Though with some bulbs, you will not need such a sizeable container. Remember, when thinking about containers, that you do not necessarily have to buy containers for the purpose. If you use your imagination, you will soon see that there are a range of reclaimed materials and items that you could reuse in your garden. Choosing Your Growing Medium Bulbs do not require anything particularly fancy when it comes to the growing medium. A general multipurpose compost is usually fine. You can also consider making your own potting mix with ½ homemade compost and ½ garden soil, which should be fine for most spring bulbs. Just make sure that your mix is relatively free-draining, or your bulbs may rot. You can also consider adding other homemade materials like leaf mould to the mix. “It’s advisable to add potting grit, up to one part to four compost, to ensure the mix is free-draining,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “Avoid using a layer of grit at the bottom of the pot which creates a wet sump and prevents the lower layer of compost from draining.” When To Plant A Bulb Lasagne You should sow spring-flowering bulbs in autumn. In September or October, choose your bulbs and get a pot or container ready. One thing to note is that you do not need to leave your container bare with just bulbs under the soil during the winter months – you can consider adding winter bedding plants (like pansies, for example) to the top of the containers until the first bulbs begin to emerge in late winter or early spring. How To Plant Your Bulbs 1) Prepare Your Container Prepare your pot, container or planting hole. Place a single crock at the base of a container to cover the drainage hole and prevent compost washing out. Add a peat-free multipurpose compost mixed with potting grit to your container (make sure there are at least 10cm of potting mix below the first layer of bulbs for their roots to grow into). 2) Place Your First Layer Place your first layer of bulbs, each around bulb width apart and facing upwards. Try to identify the top and root end of each bulb. Typically the top of a bulb is pointed and the bottom (the basal plate) is flat with evidence of old roots. With some bulb types this can be challenging, however, so if you are not sure, place them on their sides and they should still grow upwards towards the light. 3) Cover And Layer Bulbs Cover these first bulbs with a thin layer of compost then place your second tier of bulbs. Try not to place the bulbs in this layer immediately above the ones below. Use a different layout pattern for each tier if possible. For example: You might plant a ring of allium bulbs. Then place daffodil bulbs in the centre of this ring for the second layer. Then add crocus around the edges of the pot. The crocus will flower first, then the daffodils, then the alliums just as these begin to fade, giving a longer-lasting display. “Even if bulbs are planted directly on top of each other, the emerging shoots from lower bulbs will find a route past bulbs above, so positioning is not critically important,” adds Roy. 4) Repeat Your Layering Repeat this stage if you are adding a third and perhaps fourth layer. Note that, as a general rule of thumb, you should aim to add your layers so that each bulb is planted at around 3 times its own height in depth. However, to ensure adequate spacing, lower-level bulbs may be planted deeper than this. So start your first tier at the right depth below the finished soil surface for the bulbs you have chosen. Make sure, also, that you layer the bulbs in the order in which they are to flower. Bury the top layer of bulbs with around 10cm of soil. Add overwintering bedding plants to the pot to make use of it over winter while bulbs are still not throwing up shoots. Aftercare As you can see from the above, it is very easy to create a bulb lasagne, you just have to bear a few simple things in mind. Make sure you keep your container moist but not soggy throughout the flowering period. Take care not to overwater, especially over winter, or rot could set in, and keep your eyes peeled for pests. “If a particularly wet period is encountered over the winter, it’s worthwhile either covering the pots or moving them under cover to prevent the bulbs from sitting in wet compost for an extended period,” shares Roy. “In early spring, they can be moved into position ready for their display.” A well-planned and not overly crowded scheme may continue to flower well in your container for two or three years, after which you will likely have to extricate your bulbs, thin them, and re-pot them in new containers. “It’s worth remembering that while many bulbs such as Daffodils & other Narcissus are perennial, most Tulips split into smaller bulbs after flowering and the display in subsequent years is not as good,” warns Roy. “I have found this is especially the case with the showy Tulips with large double or frilly flowers. “In my experience, some of the Tulips which are reliably perennial year after year are ‘Ballerina’, ‘Triumphator’ and ‘Spring Green’. “It’s also worth considering species Tulips such as Tulipa clusiana, Tulipa sylvestris and Tulipa sprengeri. If you are adding bedding plants to a container of layered bulbs, be sure to replace the top layer of compost each time you change out the bedding specimens. Where To Place A Bulb Lasagne A bulb garden is usually made in a large plant pot – the larger the pot, the greater the impact can be. But it is worthwhile considering that you could also layer bulbs in a planter or raised bed in a small garden. When choosing where to position your pot or create your bulb lasagne, it is important to think about which bulbs you will be growing (or the space available). Be sure to consider sunlight, shade and other environmental factors such as whether the soil is likely to drain well over the winter or stay consistently wet. Many spring bulbs prefer a sunny spot, but there are also bulbs suitable for more shady conditions. Choosing Plants For A Bulb Lasagne When choosing bulbs for layered planting, the first thing to think about is where they are to grow and the environmental conditions to be found there. Once you have considered the basics, you need to decide which bulbs you would like to grow. There are a number of factors which might enter into your decision. For instance, flower shape, colour and size. But one of the most important things to consider is when each of the bulbs you are considering will flower. Remember, the goal is to find different bulbs, and to plant them in layers in the same space so that they will bloom over as long a period as possible. Largest / Latest Flowering Largest, latest flowering bulbs for a bulb lasagne include: Alliums Lilies Tulips Medium Sized / Mid-Flowering Medium-sized bulbs to be planted above those might include: Daffodils & Other Narcissus Earlier Tulips Hyacinths Small / Earliest-Flowering Small, early bulbs to plant closer to the top of the soil or potting mix include: Anemones Crocus Glory of The Snow (Chionodoxa) Grape Hyacinths Miniature Irises Snowdrops Though spring-flowering bulbs are most commonly used for a bulb lasagne, you can also consider planting summer flowering bulbs, corms like gladioli or dahlia tubers, for example. A basket of bulbs ready for planting As you can see from the above, layering the bulbs correctly is the main trick to success in creating a bulb lasagne. As long as you get this right, you should be pleased with your displays. Play around with different spring-flowering bulbs to work out the perfect combinations, and have some fun thinking about new combinations of bulbs to try.
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Train Your Clematis To Climb: Experts Share Their Advice For Trellis, Walls And Fences
IN THIS GUIDE Training Your Clematis To Climb Training On A Trellis Training On A Wall Or Fence Training To Climb A Pillar Keeping Clematis In Check Clematis sports a dainty and attractive bloom ranging from gentle violets to bold purples, to delicate whites and everything in between. For the discerning gardener looking for an enticing but not overpowering splash of colour, this flower is a fantastic choice. This versatile plant can be grown in the ground or in containers. In the latter, they make great ornamental flowers that will remain at a fairly manageable size. Grown in the ground, however, and clematis will grow to a much bigger size. It will also climb: a property that many gardeners put to great effect by training the plant to climb trees, fences, trellises, and all sorts of vertical surfaces. “If you get the planting and the position right, then the plant should establish well and find the support that you have provided,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I find Clematis to be generally self-training and I only usually need to remove the occasional stem that has gone awry. “It depends to some extent on the space available and the style of garden that you have. “Larger and more naturalistic gardens suit Clematis that fills a space more naturally whilst smaller, more formal gardens will suit a more tended, tied-in approach.” Training Your Clematis To Climb We’ll begin with fences and trellises, before moving on to pillars. Training On A Trellis With a trellis, you enjoy the luxury of having spaces between the various bits of wood, which make tying your clematis much easier. We definitely recommend this method if you’re not looking to use too many power tools! The first step is to plant your clematis, and the roots should be about 6 inches from the base of the support structure. “When a clematis is young, the stems aren’t as thick and robust, so need adequate support low down or they can be damaged,” says Fraser Wescott, owner of Walled Garden Nursery, a specialist clematis nursery. While this may feel quite far away, it leaves space for the plant to grow, and it’s far preferable to planting too close to the wall and stifling growth! Choose a type of clematis that suits the visual appeal you’re looking for and growing conditions in your garden. All you need to do with your trellis is to tie branches onto the structure with twine, gardening wire, or a similar material. “The wind is probably the biggest enemy of clematis, so ensuring that the growths are secured to prevent them from snapping is very important,” explains Ken Black, the owner of Ken Black Clematis, a specialist plant nursery. However, it’s very important that you tie it on gently with plenty of room to move, because tight knots will restrict the growth of the branch and eventually kill it off! “I use string to tie the clematis to a trellis so I can just cut the string when I prune the plant and put the whole lot in the green bin, rather than using plastic ties or wire which I would need to remove first,” says Fiona Woolfenden from the International Clematis Society. “Using string saves me time later. “I use a trellis with 4 inch (10 cm) holes which looks nice in the winter when the clematis have been pruned. “Most of my clematis are late flowering varieties which are hard pruned every year, so I can also just weave in some of the stems in between the wood of the trellis when I am in a hurry.” When the clematis reaches the right length, gently pull it upwards and attach a branch. This will encourage future growth to continue upwards, and you can repeat the process by attaching ongoing growth further up the trellis as it becomes big enough. Training On A Wall Or Fence If you’re training your clematis directly up a wall or fence rather than up a support structure like a trellis, you need another way to keep it securely attached. We recommend using lengths of wire arranged horizontally, running parallel to the ground at graduated heights proportionate to the eventual size of the plant. Peter Skeggs-Gooch, the owner of the plant nursery Thorncroft Clematis & Climbers, opts for this method when supporting his own clematis: “I suggest you use strong vine eyes and wire instead of trellis because it is less intrusive to the picture of the garden and, once the clematis is covering the wires, you won’t even see the support, making it look very natural. “Furthermore, when built with good quality materials, this type of support requires little to no maintenance, meaning more time to enjoy the garden and your flowers!” You’ll attach the clematis to these wires, and they’ll provide enough support to keep it growing well. The steps are simple: Measure up from the ground to about a third of the eventual desired height of the plant. Make a mark on the fence or wall with a pen. Drill in here and insert a hook. Use a wire clip to attach your wire to the hook. Make sure to trim your wire to the desired length before starting. Run the wire horizontally to its length, and then make another mark at the end. Use a spirit level to check it’s straight if you don’t trust your eye. Drill another hole and use a turnbuckle to attach the wire. Tighten the wire so that it’s just about taut. Repeat the process for another wire about 12 inches above the first. Training To Climb A Pillar If you’ve got pillars supporting the corners of archways, verandas, or other garden structures, you can create a stunning visual effect by training climbing plants to grow up and around them. We encourage experimenting with this idea as it’s a great way to liven up garden structures while giving your treasured plants more space to grow and thrive. It’s a little overgrown but you get the idea! The process here doesn’t vary too much from growing up a trellis, except that the support structure is somewhat different. “Make sure the first part of the support starts at least 12 inches from the ground,” says Fraser. Here, we recommend using chicken wire cut to size and wrapped loosely around the pillar. Simply wrap it around and use a couple of nails or hooks to keep the top section attached to prevent it from sliding down. Once the chicken wire is in place, it’s just a case of tying your clematis branches onto it with twine, gardening wire, or similar (much like with the trellis!). As the clematis grows you can encourage it to surround the pillar by tying it progressively further around. Keeping Clematis In Check While plenty of growth is very helpful when training your clematis to grow up or around a support structure, this plant can get a little unruly. “In my view, clematis looks better when it is not growing above eye height,” says Ken Black. “Therefore, if you want to grow up a wall, trellis or other structure, tie in the growths horizontally when the desired height has been reached.” In addition to this, when the time rolls around to prune your clematis, we recommend doing so. It may feel counterproductive to hinder growth, but you’ll find it much easier to coax the clematis into its desired shape if you have full control over the branches. This plant boasts a number of varieties, and they fall into different pruning groups. This means that instructions vary slightly for each, so make sure you know what you’re working with! For varieties in pruning group 1, prune in mid or late spring once they’ve flowered, and after the last frost. Pruning before the final frost will result in damaged new growth. For pruning group 2, prune a little earlier: February should do the trick. Then prune again lightly at the beginning of summer. For group 3, just prune in February. Done right, climbing clematis is a real sight to behold. These plants are striking and attractive, and their stems winding nimbly up a trellis, wall, pillar, or any other structure will bring a dash of colour and visual interest. Incorporated into other floral displays, you’ll be surprised at how much of an impact a vertical element can bring to your garden – so much so that we bet you’ll come back for more!
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Here's How To Take Geranium Cuttings - Buy Just Once And Propagate New Plants
IN THIS GUIDE When To Propagate Geranium Cuttings How To Take Geranium Cuttings 1) Take Your Cuttings 2) Preparing The Cuttings 3) To Wait Or Not To Wait? 4) Use Rooting Hormone 5) Potting Up Cuttings 6) Caring For Geranium Cuttings Benefits of Taking Cuttings References Bedding geraniums (Pelargoniums) are popular plants – by taking cuttings, you can buy just once and propagate new plants for your garden yourself each year. Pelargoniums, often called geraniums, are commonly used as annual bedding plants in beds and borders. They are also commonly grown in pots, on a patio or in another outside space, or even as houseplants inside a home. Difficulty Moderate Equipment Required Secateurs, gloves, pots, compost, rooting hormone (optional) When To Take Cuttings June, July, August There are many different types and interesting cultivars to choose from, and one thing that sets them apart is that, unlike most other annual bedding plants, it is very easy to take geranium cuttings and propagate your own plants at home. When To Propagate Geranium Cuttings This is a task best undertaken in summer, sometime between June and August. How To Take Geranium Cuttings If you are new to taking plant cuttings, taking cuttings from geraniums is not a bad place to start. These cuttings are relatively easy to take, prepare and care for. You will need a pair of scissors or secateurs, some pots and a small amount of compost or potting mix. You may also wish to use rooting hormone, though this is not always necessary. 1) Take Your Cuttings Make sure that you use well-cleaned, sterilised tools and make sure that the knife or other gardening implement is sharp. Begin by finding a fat, juicy and healthy stem on your geranium plant. Cut this off just above a bud on the parent plant. You should aim for cuttings that are around 10-12cm long. Repeat until you have a few cuttings to work with. It is best to start a few cuttings off at the same time, so you will still likely have some success even if not all of your cuttings make it through. 2) Preparing The Cuttings Once you have taken the material for the cutting: Immediately remove the lower flower buds and leaves. Leave just the stem over the lower half of each one. Trim the bottom of the cutting to just below a node. These nodes are areas of the plant which have a concentration of plant hormones, which thereby help rooting to take place. If there are any particularly large leaves on the upper portion of the cutting, you can also cut half of the leaf off to reduce moisture losses. 3) To Wait Or Not To Wait? Some gardeners will proceed to the next step immediately, getting their cuttings potted up as quickly as possible. However, some gardeners recommend leaving the cuttings to callus at the end before planting. This simply means leaving the cuttings on a piece of newspaper or paper towel for 3-5 days so that the end forms a protective ‘scab’ over the cut end. This can seem strange, and the cuttings will look like they have wilted, but they should perk back up when planted into pots. The benefit of leaving the geranium cutting to form a callus is that it can reduce the chances of deadly fungal infections like root rot and black leg, which are amongst the most common reasons why geranium cuttings fail. 4) Use Rooting Hormone To improve the chances that your geranium cuttings will root successfully, you can also consider dipping the bottom end into rooting hormone.1 This step is not strictly essential, as geranium cuttings may well root on their own. However, success rates will be higher if you use a rooting hormone.2 One thing to note is that you don’t necessarily need to purchase a rooting compound, you can also make your own. One common natural ingredient often used for this is willow: willow twigs are added to water to make a natural rooting aid.3 You can also dip the end of the cutting in apple cider vinegar, honey or cinnamon powder, for example, to increase the chance of cuttings rooting successfully and reduce the chances of fungal infections killing your cuttings before they root and grow successfully. 5) Potting Up Cuttings Next, take your cuttings and insert two or three around the edges of each small pot. Of course, you should prepare your pots and fill them with a suitable growing medium before you take your cuttings. Reused containers like yoghurt pots with holes pierced in the bottom can work well. The pots should be filled with seed compost or seed-starting potting mix, mixed with sharp sand to improve drainage. If you do not have a seed starting mix, and do not wish to buy one, use a light DIY (perhaps coir-based) soil-free potting mix (to avoid introducing pathogens), again mixed with grit for drainage. It is a good idea to place the cuttings around the edge, since around the edges of the pot they stand a better chance of remaining moist and rooting successfully. However, you can also simply place each cutting straight into its own individual pot. With geranium cuttings, it is best not to cover your pots, since this can encourage mildew to form on the leaves. Fungal infections can be more likely due to increased humidity. 6) Caring For Geranium Cuttings Positioning: Once you have placed the cuttings in the pots, water them and position the pots in a light, bright position indoors. Do not position them in an area of high humidity (like close to a kitchen sink, for example). Keep them somewhere relatively dry. Root Growth: Roots should begin to form within a few weeks. If you pull up a geranium cutting, you will see a thicker corky callus over the cut end, and small roots beginning to grow. After 6-8 weeks, a good root system should have begun to develop. If any cuttings wilt or turn black during this time, be sure to remove them right away, and dispose of them carefully, as diseases they harbour could spread to other plants. Watering: Make sure that you water your cuttings, but not excessively, as you take care of them over the winter months and into spring. Planting Out: In March or April the following year, remove the cuttings from their starter pots and pot each new plant up into their own individual pots of multipurpose potting mix/compost (or a homemade equivalent). Once all risk of frost has passed in your area, you can plant out your new geranium (Pelargonium) plants in your garden. Benefits of Taking Cuttings Taking geranium cuttings makes a lot of sense. Firstly, because buying annual bedding plants is not the most sustainable or eco-friendly thing to do. The plants you can purchase usually come in plastic pots, and we all know by now the terrible toll plastic takes on the environment.4 The pots also often come filled with a peat-based potting mix, or include synthetic fertilisers in the growing medium. Both peat extraction and synthetic fertilisers also come at a huge cost for people and planet. Wherever possible, if you want to be an eco-friendly gardener, you should try to grow organically, and propagate your own plants at home. Plants can be propagated through seeds, of course, and many perennials can be propagated through division. But cuttings – softwood, semi-ripe and hardwood are also key ways to make new plants using those you (or others around you) already grow. Taking cuttings from annual geraniums means you can get new plants, clones of the original plant, without having to buy new ones each year. As you can see from the above, taking your own geranium cuttings is pretty easy. And even if your cuttings don’t all take, you should have fairly high success rates if you follow the instructions above. So even if you have never taken your own cuttings before, don’t be afraid to give it a go. References 1. Zhang, W., Fan, J., Tan, Q., Zhao, M., Zhou, T., & Cao, F. (2017). The effects of exogenous hormones on rooting process and the activities of key enzymes of Malus hupehensis stem cuttings. PLOS ONE, 12(2), e0172320. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0172320 2. Rooting hormones improve uniformity among vegetative cuttings. (2018, February 13). MSU Extension. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/rooting_hormones_improve_uniformity_among_vegetative_cuttings 3. Home Made Plant Rooting Hormone – Willow Water. (2022, December 19). Deep Green Permaculture. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2010/12/15/home-made-plant-rooting-hormone-willow-water/ 4. Plastic pollution. (n.d.). Friends of the Earth. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://friendsoftheearth.uk/plastics
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Dividing Hostas: 'It Will Be Best To Dig Them Up Every 3-4 Years' Advise These Experts
IN THIS GUIDE Why Split Hostas? When To Split Hostas How To Divide Hostas 1) Pry Your Hosta From The Ground 2) Tease The Roots Apart 3) Create Smaller Divisions 4) Place Back The Parent Plant 5) Plant Out New Divisions Siting Hostas Hostas are incredibly useful plants to grow in your garden and knowing how and when to split them makes it easier to keep them healthy and increase your collection. They are a well-known ornamental shade plant, forming elegant clumps and sometimes reaching impressive sizes. This plant is commonly grown for its attractive foliage, which can come in a range of different hues and with variegation. If you have some shady or partially shaded spots in your garden, hostas can be an excellent choice. However, Horticulturist Peter Lickorish warns: “As with many perennials, clumps of hostas can develop a bare centre and patchy growth if not divided regularly. “If the clump is treated like a pie, slices of the pie can be lifted, each with only a small piece of the older, weaker central growth.” Why Split Hostas? “Most hostas, depending on the look you want, can live a long time without dividing,” says David Teager from the Delaware Valley Hosta Society. “They look best as big, mature clumps. However, if you wish to maintain a tidy edging of hostas, it will be best to dig them up every 3-4 years and divide them.” “Hostas generally grow to the space that you give them but you will have some varieties that will be stronger than others,” explains Ollie Walker from Sienna Hostas. “These may need dividing in order to give the slower-spreading varieties space.” Generally, hostas are split for two main reasons: 1) Preventing Overcrowding The first is to prevent overcrowding in perennial planting schemes and keep mature plants healthy. “If left undisturbed, giant hostas can reach a clump size of over 2m in diameter,” shares Sue, the Owner of Sue Proctor Plants. As Sue explains, hostas spread to form large clumps over time, and may outgrow the position in which they were initially placed. “Hostas can live with being overcrowded for quite a while but this can affect their mature dimensions,” says Melanie Collins, a Partner at Mickfield Hostas specialist nursery. “Many varieties, even small ones, can have a decent spread if they’re allowed to develop outside of the confines of a container.” When a hosta plant grows large, it can become crowded, and may reduce in vigour as it outstrips water and nutrient resources available. Other plants in the vicinity may also suffer when perennial plants in mixed plantings are not divided, as Robert Barlow from North Staffordshire Hostas explains: “Dividing hostas helps keep them more compact, allowing you to grow them in a specific garden space.” “Hostas are like any other herbaceous perennial; they effectively grow in size around the outside of the crown,” says the owner of Rewela Hostas, John Plant. “Eventually, the centre of the crown dies off. It is important to re-invigorate by splitting your hostas, which will also create younger, healthier plants.” 2) Propagating New Plants It allows you to propagate new plants – and is an incredibly easy and completely free way to do so. When you split hostas, you get free new plants to place elsewhere in your own garden, or to give, perhaps, to family or friends says John from Rewela Hostas. Dividing hostas and other existing perennial plants in your garden is also a more sustainable and eco-friendly solution when populating new beds or filling new garden areas. Since you will not have to purchase any new plants in plastic pots, you can reduce your negative impact on the environment. If you are new to plant propagation, then dividing perennial plants like hostas is a very simple, straightforward place to start. When To Split Hostas “If you want to divide Hostas, they can be divided at any time during the growing season, but it is usually best to do your dividing between the spring and early autumn, especially when dividing miniature hostas,” explains Barry Ankney from the American Hosta Society. Summer-flowering plants more broadly, including hostas (even when flowers are not produced on all cultivars), are best divided in spring (March to May) or in the autumn (September to November) because water is generally more accessible in the soil, and cooler temperatures reduce plant stress. “Dividing your hostas is best done in spring when the pips are just emerging,” David suggests. If the autumn is particularly wet, it may be better to delay division until the spring to reduce fungal problems and prevent plants from rotting. You can also split hostas over the summer, but the strain on the plants will be increased during hot and dry weather, so consider thinning a third of the foliage. How Often Should You Split Them? You can split mature hostas to make new plants any time after an existing clump is well-established. For health and to prevent overcrowding, you will usually split hostas every 4-5 years. Hostas grown in containers may obviously outgrow their containers and need to be split more frequently as Robert shares: “Hostas grown in pots should be divided every 3-5 years. “You can tell when this needs to be done from all the new shoots that appear to be growing around the edge of the pot.” How To Divide Hostas “Dividing hostas is easy but can require some strength,” says Melanie. To uproot and divide a mature clump of hosta: 1) Pry Your Hosta From The Ground “Our main tip for division is to disinfect tools between each plant, as this is a prime opportunity for diseases to be spread,” warns Ollie. Remembering this, use a clean garden fork or other implement to gently pry the clump up from the ground or its container. Try to retain as much of its root system as possible and avoid dividing plants in the middle of the day, when soil is often drier. Gently shake off excess soil so that you can see the root system more clearly. 2) Tease The Roots Apart Carefully tease the roots apart with your hands to separate them into sections. This is usually rather easy with a plant that has fibrous root systems like hostas. “The natural breaks made by pulling, rather than slicing, plants apart often heal better,” advises Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. You should not need to use a spade or other sharp implement as you will do when dividing more woody-rooted perennials (though you can use one). However, John Plant suggests that there is no strict method for this: “Don’t be afraid to tackle splitting with whatever it takes. This may be done by using a spade, or by simply pulling it apart.” You may simply wish to split the clump in two, replanting one section and finding space elsewhere for the other. Alternatively, you can opt for a slightly different method of division: “Personally, I like to divide the plant by removing a portion of the plant from the ground, as this requires minimal disturbance of the entire plant,” says Barry Ankney. “I like to tie back the foliage with bungee cords to open up the centre of the plant. I can then take a garden spade and cut directly down through the centre of the clump. “Then, using a garden fork, I dig a portion of the plant. One section then can remain in the ground, with less disturbance to its root system. “The portion I remove can be replanted in a new location as a clump or can be further divided into smaller clumps before relocating.” 3) Create Smaller Divisions If you are interested in making new plants, you might separate the clump that is not to be replanted into a series of smaller divisions. “It is often suitable to dig each clump, divide into thirds and plant only one piece back in the original hole (amended with some nice compost),” says David Teager. “Then you have two pieces to share, making hostas live up to their nickname as the friendship plant.” If you do this, make sure each section has some roots (as much root system as possible) and a minimum of 1-3 good buds in the above-ground portion of the plant. 4) Place Back The Parent Plant Replant the division that will remain in place, carefully placing it back into the soil and firming the soil around it, ensuring it is planted at its original depth. Mulch around it with organic matter. “Some spreading (rhizomatous) hostas can simply be tidied up by digging around the edges if they get too big for their space,” says David Teager. “Newly planted divisions could be mulched with wool pellets, which can help to deter slugs, especially early in the spring when soft new shoots are simply irresistible,” says Peter. 5) Plant Out New Divisions Plant out or pot up the portions you have split from the parent plant as soon as possible, taking care to make sure they do not dry out. “Hostas that are divided often take several years to recover to their mature size,” warns Barry. Once you have replanted the parent, or settled it back in place, you can turn your attention to the new plants you have made. You can replant hosta divisions in pots or containers, or replant them right away into another part of your garden, but make sure you choose the right sized location, says Melanie: “Often people put large varieties in too small a container and wonder why their plant seems to get smaller every year when they simply need more root room.” Be sure to keep your hostas well-watered, especially until they become established. Choosing a deeper pot can help keep the large, fibrous roots keep moist and gives them better space to grow, according to Peter. And remember that they will require more water when grown in containers, or when placed in full sun. Siting Hostas Remember that while some hostas can be placed in full sun, most will prefer a moist and somewhat shady site. They can work very well in the dappled shade below fruit trees, and are an interesting edible ground cover option to think about for a fruit tree guild or forest garden. Hostas can work well when grown in mixed planting schemes beneath an apple tree, for example. Peter Lickorish advises contrasting their large leaves with plants with slender stems or longer, thinner foliage. You might also grow hostas in a shady perennial border. It can work well both in ornamental schemes and in beds or borders with other perennial vegetables and herbs. Learning how to split hostas does not take a lot of effort. As you can see from the above, it is an easy process, which will allow you to keep existing plants happy and healthy, and get more of these useful plants for your garden.
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Beware Delphiniums Sensitive Root Systems Before Growing In Pots Says Graham Austin
IN THIS GUIDE Best Container Varieties Container Positioning Container Types Growing Medium Sowing and Planting Container Delphinium Care References Delphiniums usually do best when planted in the ground but they can also be grown in suitable containers. One challenge when growing delphiniums in pots is that they have sensitive root systems and very much dislike overcrowding. Another challenge is that these plants can grow rather tall, and so can be vulnerable to falling over, or being toppled by strong winds, as Home Farm Plants owner & delphinium specialist Graham Austin shares: “When grown in containers, it is important to make sure that the pot can drain well, as delphiniums hate sitting wet. “Staking still needs to be done, but you should be careful, as the pots can blow over if placed on a patio or another hard surface”. However, if you make the right decisions, they can look spectacular in a container garden, and some may even be suitable for attractive cut flowers. There are two main types of delphinium grown in UK gardens, and both can potentially be grown in pots or containers: The first type is perennial delphiniums, which flower in early summer and come back year after year. Some are very tall – over 2 metres – but there are also smaller cultivars that work well in pots. The second type is annual delphiniums, also known as larkspur. These are annual crops, and so flower only for a single season. But their flowers will bloom throughout the summer months and since they are smaller, they may be easier to grow in pots. Best Container Varieties If you decide to grow perennial delphiniums, then it is a good idea to opt for the Magic Fountains series. ‘Magic Fountain’ Delphinium These are smaller delphiniums that will grow to an eventual height of 75-90cm tall, and spread to create clumps of 0.1-0.5m. There are a number of different colours within this range that you can choose from. If you decide to grow annual delphinium, or larkspur, you might consider: Delphinium grandiflora Delphinium ajacis These are easy to grow from seed and are a cheap and cheerful way to fill your patio containers, window boxes or even hanging baskets. They tend to be a little tougher and easier to care for than their perennial cousins. “Species like Delphinium grandiflora retain flowers that have not been cultivated to have larger, often double, flowers,” shares Colin Skelly. “They therefore have the dolphin shape that gave the genus its name – from the Greek for Dolphin: delphis.” Container Positioning Both perennial and annual delphinium like a sunny and sheltered position. It is important to think carefully about the best place to position your potted plants so that you can maintain them easily, and also so that they are not damaged by wind. Be sure to think about sunlight and shade, prevailing wind direction and also about the water needs of your plants and how you plan to meet them. Also consider other plants in your garden – as well as man-made structures and how these affect conditions. You might grow delphiniums in their own containers, or in larger containers as part of mixed planting schemes. Even when plant roots do not have the chance to communicate, you should still think about how each container plant you choose works in relation to the other plants, and the wildlife, in your garden. Container Types Containers for delphiniums, especially taller perennial types, should be heavy and stable. Even in a sheltered spot, it is important to make sure that any pots and containers you choose will not tip over with tall plants like delphiniums within them. Remember to choose a pot of sufficient width and depth to accommodate your plant(s) and pot up as necessary until you have your delphiniums in a suitably large container. Delphiniums do like moisture during dry periods, but it is also important to create free-draining conditions in a container. That means choosing a container that has good drainage holes at the base; it may also be beneficial to raise containers up off the ground so water can always drain out freely. Growing Medium As well as requiring a moist but free-draining growing medium, delphiniums are also hungry plants that will require plenty of nutrients. For this reason, it is important to choose a fertile growing medium. Choose John Innes No. 2, or any good quality multi-purpose peat-free compost with added John Innes, or another loam-based mix. Add grit added to improve drainage, and place crocks at the base of the pots. Sowing and Planting Perennial delphiniums are usually purchased as plug plants in spring, or as potted plants in summer ready for planting out. There are also seeds available for sale, but not all cultivars of perennial delphiniums can be propagated from seed. Plant out these types into your containers in spring or early summer to give them the best chance. However, you can plant out at any time as long as you ensure adequate water and the growing medium is not waterlogged or frozen. Replant at the same level as the plants were at in their previous pot, and water in well. Annual delphiniums (like some perennials) can be grown from seed. The seeds can be sown in spring or in autumn for earlier flowering, then potted up in spring and placed into their containers for blooms over the summer months. Container Delphinium Care Plant Support Some varieties will require support. It can be a good idea to insert canes or stakes into the soil in your containers, and to tie in the delphiniums to these supports as they grow. Watering “Watering may be required more often during the growing season for potted delphiniums”, says Graham. Delphiniums will need to be watered during dry periods over the summer months – remember, watering is more crucial, and more frequent, with container-grown plants. Keep the growing medium moist but not damp or soggy. With perennial types, remember to reduce watering as temperatures cool, and over the winter if you are overwintering your plants. Feeding Delphiniums need good fertility. One important step to maintain that fertility is adding a good quality organic mulch to the top of the pots or containers that you choose. When growing in containers, it is also a good idea to add an organic liquid feed regularly over the summer months. Choose one that is rich in phosphorus and potassium and avoid adding too much nitrogen as this can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers.1 Deadheading Perennial delphiniums should be cut back after flowering and annual types should be deadheaded to prolong the summer flowering display. Just remember to leave some to set seed if you wish to collect your own seeds for next year. Overwintering Perennial delphiniums in pots should be moved undercover or into the rain shadow of a wall in winter to prevent waterlogging. Delphinium expert Graham also recommends adding a layer of horticultural grit to your container-grown plants in the winter for extra protection from winter cold and wet. Repotting, Propagation & Division Re-pot delphiniums before they become too crowded, and divide perennial delphiniums every 2-5 years. Of course, dividing mature clumps is one way to obtain new plants. You can also take cuttings or raise from seed as mentioned above. Pests and Problems Delphiniums are very attractive to slugs and snails, so be vigilant for these pests. Make sure you protect your potted plants and attract plenty of slug and snail predators to your garden to keep their numbers down. Powdery mildews can also be a common issue. Avoid overcrowding, and under watering, to reduce the chances of issues like this taking hold.2 But delphiniums, when cared for correctly, are usually relatively trouble-free plants. They are often much easier to grow in the ground, but where there is not space, growing them in a container garden can be a good idea. For more detailed growing advice see our delphinium plant care guide. References 1. Doubrava, N. (2022, August 8). Why Plants Fail to Flower or Fruit. Home & Garden Information Center | Clemson University, South Carolina. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/why-plants-fail-to-flower-or-fruit/ 2. Delphinium-Powdery Mildew. (2022, May 17). Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/delphinium-powdery-mildew
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Pieris Can Be Left Alone, But Follow These Steps If You Decide To Prune Yours
IN THIS GUIDE Pieris Can Be Left Alone Why Prune Pieris? How to Prune Pieris Simple Maintenance Pruning Hard Pruning Deadheading Maintaining Shape and Size When To Prune Pieris Post-Pruning Care Pieris are useful evergreen shrubs for your garden, but understanding their care includes learning how and when to prune. One of the reasons that Pieris is such a popular garden plant is that it is a great low-maintenance option for your garden. Pieris japonica and ‘Forest Flame’ are two incredibly popular shrubs in the UK and neither requires too much effort from gardeners. One job that you might like to think about each year, however, is pruning your plant. Pieris Can Be Left Alone Pieris shrubs may not necessarily have to be pruned at all. If you are happy for them to grow more naturally and grow to their full potential, you can more or less leave them to their own devices if you prefer. If you are a proponent of natural gardening then this may be the approach you decide to take. Pieris is usually only ever pruned lightly, and this is often more for the sake of appearances than for the health of the plant. Why Prune Pieris? Leaving your Pieris largely unpruned can often be the best choice for wildlife, and if you do decide to prune your Pieris, less is usually more. However, pruning Pieris shrubs correctly can sometimes be beneficial. It can allow you to maintain their shape and size, and deadheading after flowering might not be strictly necessary, but it will often be a good decision for the appearance of your garden and may make new foliage even more impressive and spectacular. You might prune Pieris: Simply to remove dead, damaged or diseased material if there is any. Because it has grown large and has outgrown its location. To improve its shape and form if it has become lopsided or unappealing aesthetically. To gently restrict its growth and keep it in check. To remove dead flowers to keep your garden looking neat. How to Prune Pieris Pieris falls into RHS pruning group 8, which includes early flowering evergreens. Simple Maintenance Pruning Most of the time, Pieris will only require pruning to remove any dead, damaged or diseased material. Take a good look at your shrub and aim to take out anything which seems to have any problems with a clean, sharp pair of secateurs, loppers or another pruning tool. Often, this will be enough. Hard Pruning If your Pieris is very large and overgrown, you can undertake hard pruning to rejuvenate it entirely, by cutting out around 1/3 of the old wood and, if necessary, cutting back hard to the required size and shape. Hard pruning will likely lead to loss of flowering the following year, and perhaps the year after that. However, the flushes of new colour and the size restriction can mean that this is still a good bargain. And Pieris, though they do not regularly require it, do tend to respond pretty well to hard pruning if they are otherwise healthy and in the right location. Another thing that you might consider with a mature and large Pieris is pruning it into a standard form (making it look more like a tree than a shrub). With some types of Pieris, you may be able to remove lower stems around the main trunk, starting at the ground and working upwards, to turn it from a shapeless shrub into a more attractive garden feature. So this is something else to consider for a mature and currently unappealing Pieris shrub. Deadheading You may also wish (largely for aesthetic reasons) to deadhead your Pieris, even if you do not need to do any other pruning. Removing flowers as soon as they have faded can help keep flowers coming. And when the plant has finished its blooming period and the later flowers are beginning to go to seed it can keep your shrub looking neater and more appealing. Simply snip off each of the spent flowering stems to a healthy bud. Do not confuse the flowers for the colourful young leaves. One thing to note however is that deadheading is not really necessary – if you leave the flowers in place, they will usually fall off of their own accord. And deadheading and being too neat and tidy in your garden is not always, in general, the best thing to do for wildlife in your garden. However, deadheading may also help plants focus on creating beautiful new foliage growth. It is also worth noting that Pieris are usually grown mostly for their attractive foliage rather than for their flowers. Maintaining Shape and Size At the same time as deadheading after the flowering period, you can also trim branches lightly here and there to maintain a desired shape and size. Just make sure that you do not cut into too much of the new growth which will produce next year’s blooms unless you have decided on hard pruning. When To Prune Pieris Since Pieris are in pruning group 8, they should always be pruned immediately after flowering, in spring. Most Pieris will bloom between March and May. So May or early June is a good time to prune in the UK – and also a good time to take any cuttings for plant propagation. Like other shrubs in this group, they require little pruning and as mentioned above, you may not need to do much pruning at all. Certainly, it is important to avoid pruning Pieris after the end of the summer, since this can spur new tender growth which can be damaged by frost and cold temperatures in winter. Post-Pruning Care Pieris with mulch Pruning correctly does not end with cutting off the plant material. After pruning your Pieris, you should also take care of it by adding a good quality organic mulch. Replenishing a layer of leaf mould, compost or well-rotted manure, or other organic material each spring will make sure there are plenty of nutrients for the shrub to uptake throughout the rest of the growing season. “If you have a pine in your garden or somewhere nearby if you can get permission, collect the needles and use these to mulch your Pieris,” advises Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Repeated annually these can be a great way to maintain a low soil pH and soil moisture as well as to suppress weed germination.” You should also think about feeding your Pieris (especially if growing in a pot or container) with a good general-purpose organic liquid fertiliser (a homemade compost tea, for example). This will give plants a boost after pruning and help make sure they respond well to the pruning with healthy new growth.
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Microgreens Can Be Grown At Home Year-Round For An Endless Supply - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Microgreens? Commonly Grown Microgreens How To Grow Microgreens 1) Fill Your Containers 2) Sow Your Seeds 3) Water Your Seeds 4) Place In A Warm, Sunny Spot 5) Replenish Your Seeds! 6) Harvesting Your Microgreens Common Problems References Microgreens, or micro leaves, as they are sometimes known, are simply salad, herb and vegetable plants harvested much earlier when they are still small. They are simple to grow and incredibly flavoursome. If the idea of growing microgreens at home seems a bit alien, don’t worry – this guide will cover what they are and how to grow and care for them. What Are Microgreens? Microgreens are simply the very young plants of the herbs, salad and vegetables you might normally eat or grow at home, only harvested when they are tiny. Microgreens are really versatile and can be grown on a windowsill, greenhouse or even outside during the warmer months. If grown inside, it is even possible to produce them year-round for an endless supply. It is thought that they were first introduced in an American restaurant as early as the 1980s, but didn’t become more well known until later and the big global business they are today.1 When learning about microgreens, it is important to note that they are not the same as sprouts – which can be grown in a similar way, but the difference being that microgreens have true leaves, and take slightly longer to grow before being ready to eat. Microgreens are widely available to purchase fresh here in the UK – however, they’re also a great option to grow at home and get children involved in growing their own food. The process can be a fun and sensory experience and the fact that they grow so quickly helps keep them interested. Commonly Grown Microgreens Microgreens can encompass a huge variety of plants in an array of colours and tastes, including herbs, salads, brassicas, legumes and grasses. The most common ones grown here in the UK, categorised by families include: Brassicaceae Family Includes: Broccoli, cabbage, rocket, kale, watercress, mizuna, mustard and radish. Leguminosae / Fabaceae Family Includes: Pea, broad bean. Asteraceae Family Includes: Lettuce, endive. Lamiaceae Family Includes: Mint, oregano, basil, lemon balm. Poaceae Family Includes: Wheatgrass. Some microgreens, such as mizuna and rocket can be a bit spicy, even bitter and others like basil almost sweet, so there is something for everyone’s taste buds. How To Grow Microgreens 1) Fill Your Containers Microgreens can be grown in almost anything, from seed trays and yoghurt pots to lengths of guttering. The containers do not even have to have drainage holes, but this can help. To grow microgreens, fill your container, almost to the top, with a fine-grade compost and gently tamp the soil down. You can also use a linen mat as shown in the example above. 2) Sow Your Seeds Unlike when growing ‘normal’ sized plants, microgreen seeds can be sown rather thickly. This is because the shoots are going to be harvested much sooner and the plants are not going to grow large and compete for space. Once the seeds are sown, press them down gently. 3) Water Your Seeds Water with a spray bottle ensuring the seeds and compost are moist. Using a spray bottle, rather than a jug or watering can, is a gentle way of watering and will reduce any likelihood of the seeds being dispersed. It is often recommended to soak the seeds overnight, prior to sowing, to speed up germination, but this is not strictly necessary as they are such a quick-growing crop anyway. 4) Place In A Warm, Sunny Spot For the seeds to germinate, place the container on a sunny windowsill, south facing is ideal and remember to keep the soil moist. In the right environment, the seeds should germinate within 2 – 3 days. Having germinated, the microgreens need light to continue to grow. A sunny windowsill is more than adequate usually, but lights, such as LED grow lights can be used, especially in winter when light levels are at their lowest. Continue to keep the seedlings well-watered, but don’t overdo it, as overwatering can lead to problems, including mould growth. 5) Replenish Your Seeds! If you get the bug of growing microgreens, it can be surprising how quickly you go through seeds! Thankfully seed can be purchased online in bulk bags of 500g or more, which is more cost-effective and should keep you in microgreens for a while. Even old vegetable seeds found in the bottom of the garden seed tin are worth a go and often work well. This is especially true of brassicas – the seeds are so small and there are often many left to be found at the bottom of the packet. It is possible to have a continual supply of microgreens, rather than a large glut, through a process called successional sowing. This isn’t as complicated as it sounds; it simply means sowing a new batch of seeds every week, so that as one batch has been harvested another one is growing on and almost ready. 6) Harvesting Your Microgreens Once the plants are about 5 – 7.5cm tall and usually after 2 – 3 weeks, the shoots are ready for harvesting. The main thing is that they have developed their true leaves. To harvest, simply cut just above the substrate with a clean and sharp pair of scissors or snips and enjoy. Microgreens are best eaten fresh and one of the great things about growing microgreens at home is that you only need to harvest what you need then and there – the rest will happily continue to keep until you next need them. Some microgreens will regrow, especially if cared for and if cut just above the lowest leaf. If they don’t or if you would rather sow a fresh batch, the old soil can be composted and you are ready to start again. Common Problems Why Are My Microgreens Falling Over? Microgreens falling over can be a rather common problem when growing at home and there can be several causes. Lack of water is possibly the most common reason, so try giving them a good drink and see if they recover in a few hours. But do water gently as the pressure from a jug or tap can force them over as well. Another potential cause of them falling over is because they have grown too thin and leggy and subsequently become weak. This is often because they have not received enough light and may need to be moved to a sunnier spot or placed under a grow light. “Stems rotting off where they meet the soil is another common cause of collapsing,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “This can be caused by overwatering or lack of drainage from the pot. Adding some grit to the sowing mix could help.” Why Haven’t My Seeds Germinated? Seeds might not germinate for a number of reasons, including the seeds being too old, of poor quality or not being in proper contact with the soil. Germination usually only takes a few days, so any longer and it might be worth checking the sow by date of the seed packet or trying a different brand if it continues. It’s important to remember that seeds need good contact with the soil, the right temperature and to be kept moist, as poor germination can often be caused by just poor soil contact, being too cold or being allowed to dry out. Why Is There Mould On My Microgreens? Mould on microgreens can sometimes be confused with white root hairs, which are usually nothing to worry about and often disappear in a few days. If the white substance around the base of the seedlings does not look hair or feather-like, then it is most probably mould. Mould is most often caused by poor drainage, so if you are using trays or containers without holes, it might be worth trying one with holes, to allow excess water to drain. High humidity can also encourage mould, so opening a window or placing the seed tray in a more ventilated space may help. A lack of light can also be the culprit so increasing the available light may help prevent mould. Using a soil or compost which does not have good drainage may also contribute to mould growth. A freer draining compost mix could be tried or even adding some perlite to the compost mix may well help. Lastly, it is really important to practise good hygiene and clean the trays and containers thoroughly after use and allow them to dry before stacking and putting them away until next time. The best course of action against mould is to try and prevent it in the first place, as if your microgreens do unfortunately get mould, then it is recommended not to consume them. References 1. Role of Microgreens and their Potential Health Benefits: A Review. (n.d.). JETIR. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.jetir.org/papers/JETIR2105366.pdf
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