Growing
Cold Frames Can Help Extend The Growing Season: Here Are 5 Practical Uses
IN THIS GUIDE What Is A Cold Frame? Where To Place A Cold Frame 1) Extend Your Growing Season 2) Harden Off Seedlings Sown Indoors 3) Speed Ripening Of Summer Crops 4) For Cuttings & Plant Propagation 5) For Winter Growing / Overwintering Additional Tips For Cold Frame Gardening Gardening in the UK is all about making the most of the relatively short growing season and a cold frame is something that can help you do that. A cold frame can be a great addition to a garden, especially where there is not sufficient space for a greenhouse or polytunnel. Even if you do have a greenhouse, a cold frame can be a useful extension to the space for undercover growing, and meet further specific needs. What Is A Cold Frame? A cold frame is basically a low structure, with a glass or clear plastic top which is angled towards the sun. It is primarily used to catch the sun’s heat and offer some protection from outdoors weather conditions within it. These simple structures can be purchased, but are also commonly made at home. They can be constructed from a wide range of different materials, and using reclaimed materials can be an eco-friendly choice. Using a cold frame can make your gardening more resilient, as plants can be protected from weather extremes – especially during the spring, late autumn and winter. These can be useful whether you are growing your own edible plants, or concentrating primarily on ornamentals. A cold frame is a very useful structure to consider buying or making for your garden. Where To Place A Cold Frame A cold frame will usually be placed in a south-facing position, often against a wall. A brick or stone wall has good thermal mass, and will collect the sun’s heat energy during the day, releasing it slowly at night. This will help to keep conditions warmer when it is chilly outside. Usually, you will want to make sure that plenty of light makes its way into the cold frame. However, for certain applications, such as when using it for cuttings, you may also wish to place a cold frame in a somewhat more shaded situation. Cold frames can be positioned over soil, or on an area of hard paving if containers are placed within. If you want to create a new bed within a cold frame placed on soil (or grass), lay cardboard over the area, then build up layers of organic material to make a lasagna bed, topping with a layer of rich compost or topsoil. Another interesting option is to place a cold frame on top of a raised bed. A hot bed could even be made, which takes advantage of the heat given off by decomposing materials (such as manure and straw). A cold frame will help you retain the heat given off by a hot bed. So, how exactly will you use your cold frame? Here is a brief guide to the main different ways in which a cold frame is used: 1) Extend Your Growing Season A cold frame can be used to extend your growing season, both in the spring, just before the last frosts, and in the autumn, as the first light frosts arrive. Temperatures within a cold frame will typically be between 3 and 5°C warmer than they are outside it. This means that it can be used, when placed over soil, as a seed bed. Under a cold frame, you can typically start cool-season crops a couple of weeks earlier than you will be able to outside in your garden beds. A cold frame placed a couple of weeks before sowing will warm the soil sufficiently for early sowings. A cold frame can also give you a little wiggle room in autumn, as the weather gets colder. The cold frame will stave off light frost and protect plants before winter well and truly arrives. 2) Harden Off Seedlings Sown Indoors Of course, extending the growing season can also involve sowing seeds indoors a little earlier in the year. And all those seedlings grown indoors need to be hardened off before you can plant them out in your garden. This process is a lot easier if you have a cold frame in your garden. Cold frames are either vented, with a vent which can be opened and closed incrementally, or they have a mechanism to hold the lid open, partially open, or closed. One of these structures, therefore, allows gardeners to easily increase exposure of the plants to outdoors conditions (breezes, winds and lower temperatures) over time. Hardening off is crucial for all plants which are tender after having been started off indoors or in a greenhouse. The process typically takes a couple of weeks; it ensures that your plants are sturdy and are not shocked into a check in their growth. If you have a greenhouse, plants will typically be moved into it from indoors first. After a week or two, plants can then be moved into a well-ventilated cold frame. The cold frame serves as a kind of halfway house between the greenhouse and the outdoors garden. If you do not have a greenhouse, plants can be placed directly into a cold frame. The lid should be opened slightly during the daytime for a week or so, and closed at night. You will then gradually raise the lid a little more, for longer periods, a bit at a time, before you open the cold frame entirely prior to planting out. Hardening off is possible without a greenhouse and without a cold frame, but having one makes the process a lot easier. 3) Speed Ripening Of Summer Crops Placing summer crops such as tomatoes and peppers, for example into a cold frame can help keep them safe and protected while increasing yield and speeding up ripening of summer crops. Tomatoes and peppers are typically sown indoors in February, or even late January, to get them off to a good start and increase the chances of a worthwhile yield by the end of the season. “Courgettes and cucumbers are also well suited to growing in a cold frame as they can be planted in a grow bag and don’t become too tall for the structure,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. These seedlings are potted up and grown on. Placing them into a cold frame allows you to provide them with suitable conditions before it is warm enough to place them in their final growing positions, and it can clear space indoors so that other seeds can be sown. Once these plants go outdoors, more quick-growing leafy crops can be placed in a cold frame and successionally sowed throughout the summer. This means that in essence, the cold frame can become an additional growing area for edible produce over the summer months. 4) For Cuttings & Plant Propagation A cold frame can also be used to provide some extra protection for softwood, semi-ripe, ripe and hardwood cuttings, and to provide optimal conditions for them to put down roots. As mentioned above, if a cold frame is to be used for cuttings and plant propagation, then it may sometimes be beneficial to position it out of full sun, in a slightly more shaded position. 5) For Winter Growing / Overwintering A cold frame can also be used during the winter months. It can be used to provide a little protection for frost-hardy edibles like kale and other brassicas, winter lettuces, Asian greens, etc. Inside a cold frame, these can usually make it all through the winter in the UK. You can also use a cold frame to overwinter plants that can survive at relatively low temperatures, but which cannot tolerate winter wet. Many alpine plants and several succulents, for example, can be moved from outside in the garden into a cold frame for overwintering. A cold frame can also be used for overwintering a wide range of other half-hardy or slightly tender plants such as Salvias or Gazanias. Additional Tips For Cold Frame Gardening Take care regarding ventilation. Good airflow is key, especially in warmer weather. Make sure the lid can be propped open at different angles, or a vent can be opened and closed to regulate airflow. Remember that plants in a cold frame will not receive natural rainfall. It is important to make sure you have a good and consistent watering regime in place. Over winter, and in the early spring and late autumn, you can maintain temperatures in a cold frame that stay above freezing by thinking about thermal mass. As well as placing a cold frame against a wall (and using materials with good thermal mass like bricks, rocks or clay for the sides of the frame), you can also add thermal mass by filling black containers with water and placing these in a cold frame during the day. They will heat up in the sun, and keep the cold frame a little warmer during the night. I’ve found that slugs and snails adore cold frames as they’re provided with a regular supply of food (your plants) and use the structure as cover to hide during the day. Therefore, it is best to regularly look through the inside of the cold frame and to check at night for molluscs.
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Pruning Requirements For A Plum Tree Are Different To Other Fruits - Here's Why
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune A Plum Tree? When To Prune A Plum Tree Maintenance Pruning Pruning For Shape & Form Pyramid-Shaped Plums Fan Shaped Plums Cordon Or Columnar Plums Renovating An Old Mature Plum Tree Fruit trees are great plants for a relatively low-maintenance garden. Often, once established, they will require little care, but pruning is one important job to take care of. Learning when and how to prune the different trees and other plants in your garden is important, since for many species, pruning correctly can help keep them healthy and productive over time. Plum trees are a little different to apples, and many other common trees when it comes to their pruning requirements – so here is a guide to help you work out what you should do to your plum tree, and when. Why Prune A Plum Tree? ‘Victoria’ plum tree If you have a productive plum tree in your garden, you may wonder why you need to prune it at all. You might be thinking – “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it”. But if you fail to prune a plum tree, you may find that issues begin to creep in – and your productive plum may develop problems and become less productive over time. Plum trees need to be pruned for a number of reasons, including to: Remove dead, damaged or diseased material. Avoid overcrowding which can lead to damage. In order to make sure sunlight reaches fruit which develops on the tree and to allow good light penetration through the crown of the tree. Keep the tree in a desired shape and/or to a desired size. Renovate an older tree and stimulate bare wood areas to new growth. When To Prune A Plum Tree No matter your reasons for pruning a plum tree, and regardless of what you hope to achieve, it is important to prune at the right time. Plums should be pruned in late spring, or over the summer months, and not in autumn or over the winter. Since many other trees are best pruned over the dormant period, this is one thing that sets plum and other Prunus trees apart. Spring is typically the best time to prune young trees, and it is best to prune established trees in the middle of summer. The reason why it is not a good idea to leave the pruning of plum trees until colder weather arrives is that pruning during cold and wet periods can make it more likely that disease will take hold. Plums pruned in autumn or winter are more likely to become infected with silver leaf disease. This is a fungal infection that can kill off branches, or even kill the tree altogether in extreme cases. Maintenance Pruning If your plum tree is in a standard or bush form, then pruning will generally only be light, for general maintenance. A maintenance prune will, first of all, involve checking over the tree, and looking for the “Three D’s” – removing any material that is Dead, Damaged or Diseased. You will also remove any branches which are rubbing against one another, and any that are unbalancing or disrupting the visual appearance of the tree’s form. You may also remove branches to open up the centre of a tree a little more to let the sunlight through, but pruning will generally be fairly light. One other thing to note is that on grafted trees (most fruit trees are generally grafted – with a scion grafted onto a rootstock) you may find suckers coming from the rootstock. These, you will also want to remove. Pruning For Shape & Form Plum trees can also be shaped into specific forms. Where this is the case, the pruning job will be slightly more complex, as you will prune not just for general maintenance, but to maintain the shape and form. Plum trees can be: Small and Pyramid-shaped. Fan trained. Columnar or cordoned. Pyramid-Shaped Plums If you have a pyramid-shaped plum tree, it will typically be kept to between 1.8m and 2.4m (depending on the rootstock that was used). During the first summer, you should wait until July, and then shorten new branches to 20cm, cutting each one above a bud which is facing outwards. Side branches should be cut back to a bud at around 15cm. The central leader should then be trained and tied into the stake. In following years, you should cut back the central leader by two thirds each April, repeating annually until the tree has reached the height optimal for its rootstock. After this, the central leader should be trimmed back each May to keep the tree the same height. Vertical shoots competing with this central leader should be removed in late June. Then, towards the end of July, branch leaders should be pruned to around 20cm, and side branches to around 15cm in length. Fan Shaped Plums If your plum tree is trained into a fan shape against a wall or fence, pruning will be complex at first, but is easy to manage once you have the initial fan shape. The specifics of pruning a fan trained tree will depend on the tree initially purchased, and its stage of growth. For established fan trained plum trees, tie shoots into the framework where there is space to do so. Get rid of shoots growing into the wall or fence, and any that are too crowded – then take back all remaining new shoots to around six leaves. After fruiting, cut back to three leaves to create a spur on which fruits will form next year. Cut out strong upright shoots where these develop on vigorous plum trees entirely if they cannot be tied into the framework. It is also a good idea to ensure that there is new wood but cutting back a couple of older, fruited branches to a vigorous new shoot after harvesting – and to tie that new shoot into the supports in place of that older branch. For plums that are harvested in autumn, it is best to leave replacement pruning of this type until spring. Cordon Or Columnar Plums Cordon or columnar plums are an excellent solution for particularly small spaces. To prune these, once they have reached the desired height, cut back the leader to around 1.5cm each May. Established cordon plums should then be pruned in July/August. Cut off the shoot tip of each lateral spur to leave around 6 leaves. After the harvest, prune back to three leaves to leave the fruiting spurs. Renovating An Old Mature Plum Tree If you have a large and neglected mature plum tree in your garden, you may wish to prune a little more vigorously to reduce size and improve the health and productivity of the tree. But it is important to undertake renovations slowly, over a number of years. Pruning back a plum tree too hard can do more harm than good, so take things a step at a time. If there is an area of bare wood, pruning to a bud above this area may encourage new growth. It may stimulate buds that have become dormant – though there are no guarantees. You can also notch just above a dormant shoot where you want to encourage growth to try to spark it back to life. Primarily, with a large mature tree, you should aim first and foremost to ensure an open canopy, and to remove dead, damaged or diseased material. “Renovating old fruit trees takes time,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “You can’t bring back a productive structure in a year but over 3-5 years you can often restore vigorous growth and a planned structure. “Begin by removing dead, damaged or diseased branches and then select one or two crossing branches in the centre of the tree. “Over the next few years, you slowly restore a desired structure, being careful to go slowly to avoid the tree responding with lots of vigorous new growth.” Try to prune back to natural forks in the tree to avoid leaving messy stubs. An old gardener once told me that you should prune an old fruit tree to reduce congestion over time, so that a pigeon can fly through between all the branches.
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Woody Or Leggy Heather? Expert Nursery Growers Share 5 Rejuvenation Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Common Problems Advice To Help Revive Your Plants 1) Pre-Emptive Pruning 2) Check It’s Alive 3) Compost Accordingly 4) Hydrate To Regenerate 5) Relocate When Required References Heather that has become woody or leggy can be an eyesore in your garden – but all hope is not lost. With its evergreen foliage, brightly coloured blooms and year-round hardiness, heather is a popular choice for gardeners across the UK. In this guide, we’ve collaborated with heather experts, David Edge and Irene Lang. “In my early teens, I worked with heathers at a local nursery and appreciated the wide range of varieties,” shares David. “In the 1970’s they first gained publicity and recognition for their qualities and this stimulated my interest in collecting and growing them for myself. “The qualities that I appreciated then remain the same, especially with the plant’s concern for bees and butterflies, and for providing an environment and shelter for other wildlife.” The fact that it’s a native of this country makes it an ideal option in all weathers, while the little maintenance required means that novice horticulturalists generally find it easy to work with.1 Common Problems Having said that, heather is not impervious to pests, blights and diseases, nor is it infallible and invulnerable. Indeed, it’s likely that over the course of its lifetime, heather may give you cause for concern when parts of the plant turn brown or grey and it lacks the vim and vitality of its youth. In such cases, it can be difficult to know how to coax your heather plant back from the brink and rejuvenate it once more. While not all heather specimens will be able to be saved, there are certain tips and tricks that you can try to breathe fresh life into its roots and stems. Here are a handful of hints on how you can revitalise a heather plant that looks like it has seen better days. Advice To Help Revive Your Plants 1) Pre-Emptive Pruning You know what they say about prevention – it’s invariably better than the cure. “Trimming annually is a must to remove the old flowers and will keep the plant bushy with a tidy habit,” explains David. The fact that you’re reading this article means it may be too late to pre-emptively prune your heather plant before it develops any issues, but it’s a lesson worth bearing in mind for next time in any case. All heaths and heathers don’t require much in the way of dedicated care – but they will appreciate regular pruning. That’s because trimming the plants will help them to stay dense and compact, allowing them to divert nutrients to the parts which need them the most and promote multiple blossoms. It will also prevent the development of a woody interior, which is often the beginning of the end for heathers. Wait until the flowering period has ended, then prune them back by removing the stems of all old flowerheads and shearing off some of the foliage – but don’t trim them back so far as to reach the bare wood. 2) Check It’s Alive Once you do begin to experience a fatigued or fading plant, your first course of action should be to establish whether the whole plant is dead or dying. Lacklustre growth at the forefront of the plant can hide healthy stems underneath, while a heather that still appears healthy could already be in the first stages of decay. There are three main ways to check if a heather plant is alive or not. The first involves your sense of touch: handle the heather’s foliage and flowers to see if they’re dry and brittle, since this could be a tell-tale sign that it’s on its way out. Next, break off a single stem of the plant. If it’s pliable and green or white inside, it’s still alive; if it snaps in half easily, it could be dead. Finally, dig a small hole nearby the base of the plant to look at its roots. White roots indicate it’s healthy, while brown, red or black ones will tell you that it’s dying or dead. 3) Compost Accordingly One of the likeliest causes of a failing heather plant is improper soil. Heathers love acidic soil types with good drainage, so you can encourage a flagging specimen to flourish once more by ensuring it has the nutrients it needs. Place ericaceous compost at its base to promote new growth, or else mulch with pine needs and other organic matter to enhance the acidity of the soil. Remember, some heather plants are more reliant on acidity than others, so check the label on your particular specimen or else look up the genus online to see if it requires special treatment. In the right soil, heathers are hardy enough to thrive and survive for many years at a time, even when left to their own devices. 4) Hydrate To Regenerate Another chief cause of a dying heather plant is improper irrigation. If a specimen’s roots and foliage are allowed to dry out completely, it’ll die out within a matter of days and won’t return the following year. That’s why it’s important to ensure that the soil surrounding the plant is always kept moist (but not waterlogged) in order to maintain adequate hydration. “In hot and dry conditions, newly planted heathers will require watering to maintain moisture,” explains David. “Heathers are not seen to wilt and show little sign of drought conditions until too late.” For a plant that’s desperately in need of a drink to the point of expiration, it can be beneficial to dig it up entirely (roots and all) and soak it in a bucket of water for a couple of hours to slake its thirst. “Soaking in a bucket is an emergency plant first aid and it will work for other plants as well as heathers if you find a casualty in the garden,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly.. “Unfortunately, it will either work (and the recovery can be dramatically quick) or it won’t.” Then, it’s simply a case of replanting in the location of your choice. It should also be noted that some heather varieties are susceptible to hard water, which can come out of the taps of many households in Britain. For best results, collect rainwater and use that to irrigate your plants instead of using tap water. You can also feed your heathers to help them recover, David suggests: “Give your heathers a light granular broadcast feed of a general fertiliser to help it maintain good, healthy growth.” 5) Relocate When Required The final factor which could be contributing to poor performance from your heather is its location. For starters, heather plants are hardy beasts that love the great outdoors, so if you have yours cooped up indoors, it might not enjoy the conditions. They can also be grown in pots and containers without too much of a problem, but if you have acidic soil in your garden, it’s always a preferable option. “Ensure that the soil type is correct for the type of heather you are planting,” says David. “Winter and spring flowering heathers are tolerant of heavier alkaline soils, whereas most of the summer flowering heathers require an acidic and light soil type. “Planting and other care information can be found online as well as on individual plant labels.” While heathers are resilient under most conditions, they don’t do well in the extremes of hot or cold, so if you’re lucky enough to live in a particularly sunny part of the country, it may be an idea to plant it in a spot that enjoys at least partial shade. Plant the heathers with enough distance between them to allow their roots to explore at will and feed and water them regularly at the outset to ensure they take to their new environment and you may just be able to bring them back from the precipice. References 1. New Forest National Park Authority. (2019, September 25). Heather. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.newforestnpa.gov.uk/discover/plants-fungi/heathland-plants/heather/
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Sue Hunter On Pruning Holly: Be Selective With Young Plants; Use Hat-Racking For Older Ones
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Holly? When To Prune Holly How To Prune Holly How Far Can You Cut Holly Back? What To Keep In Mind What About Holly In Containers? Left to their own devices, most holly varieties will grow into a large tree shape. The maximum height will vary between varieties, with some able to reach fifteen metres or more. Prune it, however, and you can sculpt your holly tree into completely different shapes. Whether a boxed hedge or something approaching a topiary, holly lends itself well to being shaped and pruned. Why Prune Holly? Holly, left alone, will grow into a traditional tree shape “Holly is versatile in the garden and landscape – there is a species of holly for every situation,” claims Sue Hunter – President of the Holly Society of America. This versatility also extends to their pruning needs. Some holly varieties grow to over fifteen metres high, meaning that they become quickly unruly – especially if they’re in an area of your garden where a giant tree won’t fit with the aesthetic. Pruning is a great way to keep your tree in check, and to force its natural tendencies to comply with your aesthetic demands. Doing this properly won’t damage the plant, so make sure to read the following sections carefully. They’ll teach you what you need to know to keep your holly under control without causing any damage. When To Prune Holly Deciding when to prune comes down to finding the balance between convenience and the plant’s stage in its lifecycle. The consensus is that late spring, around April, is the best time, as the plant is most receptive to pruning, and the outdoor conditions are conducive to the job. “Winter berries will also have been eaten by birds by this time, so leaving pruning until the spring will help them,” adds Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. Pruning too late in the year can increase the risk of new shoots being young when the first frosts hit, leading to stunted ongoing growth. Although it’s undeniably festive, pruning in these conditions is best avoided Pruning too early means you have to spend hours out in the cold fighting with a spiky bush, which isn’t our idea of fun. “Besides, the same issue arises where new growth is damaged by late frosts and sets the plant back at the start of the new season,” Roy says. Beyond those constrictions, you have a lot of flexibility with timing, but spring is favourite. How To Prune Holly Now you’ve got an idea of the best time to prune a holly tree, you need to know how to do it. There’s a little more to it than taking secateurs to the plant and going wild: you want to prune in a way that encourages new growth while respecting old growth, and avoiding damage to either. The received wisdom is to prune stems rather than leaves, and to do this as close to a flowering bud as possible. Doing so will encourage the bud to grow, and is the quickest way to facilitate new growth on your holly tree. Bear in mind that, according to Sue, pruning holly with shears is not always to best idea: “Over time, shearing causes irregular growth within the branching structure of the plant which causes dieback from the inside out.” How Far Can You Cut Holly Back? “Younger hollies respond well to selective pruning as they grow, whilst old, established hollies respond well to a more drastic type of pruning called ‘hat-racking’,” explains Sue. “Hat-racking is where most of the branches are reduced to one-third to one-half their original size and it is almost always performed during the winter dormancy.” Theoretically, you can prune back very hard, although bear in mind that the stems on the inner part of the tree may have much less growth than the outer ones. This is because, over time, they’ll have received less sunlight than the outer branches, meaning fewer buds and fewer leaves. So, if you’re pruning back hard, you may encounter parts of the tree with relatively small amounts of growth. If these formerly inner branches become outer ones on your newly-pruned configuration, the tree may look more barren and bare than it did before. This isn’t necessarily a problem, as these branches will start to put forth buds and leaves over time. You just have to accept that your holly tree may not look as healthy as it once did. “It can take two growing seasons for a Holly which has been hard-pruned to cover itself in foliage again, but it’s worth the wait, as the shrub will then be the desired shape and size and can be selectively pruned more regularly to keep it that way,” adds Roy. What To Keep In Mind Most holly is sharp! If you’ve ever trodden barefoot on a dried holly leaf, you’ll know just how painful their spikes can be. And obviously taking pair of secateurs to your holly tree involves putting your hands, arms, and even face very close to their treacherous barbs. When pruning holly, make sure to wear the relevant gear. This obviously includes thick gloves, but we recommend wearing long sleeves and long trousers, too. Some gardeners advise wearing goggles when pruning holly, too. This may seem excessive, and you might feel like a bit of a wally heading into the garden in full protective clothing, but avoiding a spike in the eye is worth the risk to your street cred! Of course, if you’re growing a variety like Golden King whose leaves are wonderfully smooth, you can probably leave the riot gear indoors. What About Holly In Containers? One of the appealing things about holly is that it grows well in containers, making it a great ornamental plant for balconies, patios, and even indoor settings. Growing holly in containers requires more pruning, however, so don’t put those gloves away just yet. When growing holly in a container you’ll want to prune it annually at first, gradually switching to twice a year in most cases once the plant is ready for it. And you’ll know when it’s ready, as it will take two prunes a year to keep it in the condition that one used to take.
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Succulent Growers On Their 6 Step Propagation Routine: 'Most Grow From Leaf Pullings'
IN THIS GUIDE How Succulents Are Propagated How To Propagate Succulents 1) Allowing Cuttings / Offsets To Form A Callus 2) Choose A Suitable Potting Mix 3) Place Cuttings / Offsets In Their New Containers 4) Wait For New Root Systems To Form 5) Pot Up Your New Plants 6) Place Plants In Their Final Growing Positions Learning how to propagate succulents at home means reducing the number of succulents you need to buy. Making new plants from your existing ones will save you money, growing your collection for free. It can also help you to avoid bringing extra plastic pots or packaging into your home. The more you can take a DIY approach and do things yourself at home, the closer you can move to a truly sustainable, zero-waste lifestyle. In this guide, we will take you step-by-step through the simple process involved in propagating succulents. How Succulents Are Propagated Most succulent plants are propagated through cuttings or through offsets. The type of cutting that is taken varies depending on which succulents you are dealing with. Sometimes leaf cuttings are taken, and sometimes stem cuttings – the particular plants you select will determine which of these you will take. Often, taking a succulent cutting will simply involve taking a clean and well-sharpened blade and snipping off some of the fleshy leaves, perhaps along with a portion of stem. While you may well be able to take more than one cutting at one time from a mature plant, it is best to make sure you do not take too many portions of the plant at one time, as this may weaken or put too much stress on the original. “Most succulents grow from leaf pullings,” says Darren, from Pugh’s Cacti, a specialist nursery. Sometimes, things are even simpler and smaller offsets will naturally develop close to the mature plant. This is true, for example, for succulents which form rosettes, like aloe and echeveria. In these cases, propagation is simply a matter of carefully cutting these away from the mature plant. “Succulents are among the easiest group of plants to propagate,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Because they are adapted to handle dry conditions, they are less prone to drying out than many cuttings. In fact, the risk to cuttings is far more from overwatering.” Houseleek offsets How To Propagate Succulents Though propagating most succulents really could not be easier, there are a few steps to take to make sure that your cuttings or offsets root successfully. So let’s take a look at the simple process, step by step – 1) Allowing Cuttings / Offsets To Form A Callus “Cacti and succulents will produce offshoots,” explains Darren. “These can be detached from the main plant easily but will need to be dried for at least 7 days first.” As Darren explains, as soon as you have cut and gathered your leaf/stem cuttings or little offsets, you cannot just plonk these into soil or a growing medium right away. Instead, you have to wait for the cut section of the succulent sections to form a callus. In other words, you need to wait for it to harden or dry and scab over. “Propagation of cacti and succulents is generally simple,” explains Peter Bint, the Society Secretary of the British Cactus and Succulent Society. “When you remove a cutting from a plant it is essential to allow the cut surface to heal and harden. This is done by placing the cutting in a dry airy place for about a week.” A callus over the wound protects it from rot or disease – it is important to let the hardened callus form before your succulent cuttings are exposed to water or dampness. Place your cuttings on a sunny windowsill or another light and dry place for a week or so before you proceed to the next step in the process. “The cut section needs to callus over and dry for a minimum of 7 days to allow the cut to fully dry and prevent mould,” says Darren. “Most cacti and succulents are happy to sit this way for some time. In the nursery, we have had cuttings sit this way for 12 months and still grow once potted. “Cuttings should be taken in summer to allow the cut to heal quickly as mould can develop. “If this happens, recut and allow it to dry again. Dipping the cut end in cinnamon can help prevent mould from forming.” 2) Choose A Suitable Potting Mix It is important to choose a potting mix specifically designed for succulents, with good drainage. “Prepare the compost you intend to root the plant into,” says Peter. “This should be reasonably sandy and coarse. Do not use a peat mixture.” The type of container you choose is also important, as that can determine how successfully water will escape and how warm it will be. 3) Place Cuttings / Offsets In Their New Containers “Place the soil in the pots you intend to use, then allow the soil to soak up so water until it is moist,” explains Peter. “After, you can put your cuttings into this mix.” As soon as your succulent cuttings have developed their callus, you can next place them on top of a suitable potting mix in your chosen pots or containers. Place these in a suitable location. Make sure you take into account the temperature, light and other environmental needs of the particular succulents you have chosen to propagate. “Place your succulent in a light place that is shaded from direct sunlight,” says Peter. “Make sure the soil is kept slightly moist so that new roots have the ability to take in moisture.” 4) Wait For New Root Systems To Form After you have placed your new succulents into the top of your containers, on the suitable potting mix you have chosen for them, you should water a little, around once a week (depending on variety) and wait patiently for little roots to develop. The length of time that it will take for succulent cuttings to root will depend at least in part on which variety of succulent you are propagating, as Peter shares: “Rooting can be anything from a couple of weeks to six months according to the species. “Succulents are usually quicker to root than cacti.” With some cuttings, you will know that they have rooted successfully when you pull very gently on the cutting and it does not come away but is held in the growing medium to a degree. Sometime later, you may see new leaves forming on the cuttings, and the withering of the original leaf. Once the original leaf has withered, you can remove it. 5) Pot Up Your New Plants Once your succulent cutting has formed some roots, you can pot up each of your new plants. Be sure to place each plant into a pot or container filled with the same medium in which it was previously grown, as this will lessen any type of transplantation shock and reduce the amount of stress on your plants. Watering and environmental needs will of course vary depending on which succulents you are growing. However, as a general rule of thumb, succulents in pots should be placed somewhere where they receive indirect but relatively bright light which is received for at least six hours each day. And should be watered weekly, taking care to be light-handed and consistent. 6) Place Plants In Their Final Growing Positions After they have been left to establish in their new pots or containers for a few weeks, your succulents should be rooted and growing strong. At this point, you can consider placing them in their final growing location – whether in larger containers, inside your home or outside, in an undercover growing area such as a greenhouse or polytunnel, or in garden beds or borders. “Many succulents can happily be grown outdoors when frosts have finished,” Peter shares. “They will need some protection from excessive rain and wind. They need to return to an indoor environment by mid-September. “Succulents are much easier to grow in a greenhouse or conservatory than on a windowsill. They can also be grown on the balcony of a flat in the warmer months.” Slightly different processes are followed (and different cuttings taken) for different succulents. But as you can see from the above, it is rather easy and straightforward to make new succulents from those you have already grown. So as soon as you have purchased your first few succulents, you can easily grow your collection over time.
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In Just 5 Steps You Can Make Your Own Terrarium To Combine Hobbycraft And Horticulture
IN THIS GUIDE What Is A Terrarium? How To Make A Terrarium What You Will Need: 1) Add Compost To Your Container 2) Dig A Hole For Your Plants 3) Add Your Plants 4) Firm Up The Soil 5) Add Aquatic Gravel How Do Terrariums Work? Best Plants For Terrariums Caring For Your Terrarium Dealing With Pests References Terrariums have been popular for well over a hundred years, and it’s easy to see why. These gorgeous, compact gardens are fascinating to observe from week to week and make a fabulous living ornament for your home. “It is quite easy to create a small terrarium from a wide-necked glass bottle, which will provide greenery indoors with absolutely no watering,” shares gardener Karen Liebreich. Through the glass, you can observe the journey of the roots through the layers of soil, making it a great learning opportunity for adults and kids alike. “Terrariums combine hobbycraft and horticulture, are great projects for young and old and can be personalised in any way you wish,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If you get the location and watering right, they are also pretty low maintenance. “They can also be a good way to engage children with what plants need to grow and where garden and house plants have come from.” So, whether you have limited space, limited time, or simply want an ultra-low maintenance gardening experience – terrariums are the answer. And, while you could buy one at your local garden centre, they are super easy and fun to make, and we are going to show you how. What Is A Terrarium? Terrariums are small, encased environments where certain plants can grow. They are essentially mini-greenhouses and are typically made from transparent containers made from glass or plastic. Trending in the Victorian era, terrariums are still popular today. Terrariums were actually invented by accident by Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward in 1842.1 Ward had an interest in observing insect behaviour and accidentally forgot about one of his many jars. Inside a fern spore grew and germinated into a plant and thus the first terrarium was created, although back then it was known as a Wardian case.2 The Victorian public was enamoured with this novel, glass-encased garden, and the trend soon took off.3 It’s safe to say they’ve stood the test of time: terrariums are still popular to this day. How To Make A Terrarium As you’d expect, open terrariums are just as easy to make as the sealed ones, and here’s how to do it: What You Will Need: A glass or plastic container – no lid required for this one! Cactus potting compost Activated charcoal Your selection of plants Long-handled spoon Long tweezers Aquatic gravel (you can buy this in pet shops) Gardening gloves if you are handling spiky plants Decorative materials such as moss and rocks if you wish Now that you have everything you need, it’s time to get started. Here are the steps to create your very own open terrarium: 1) Add Compost To Your Container Spoon your potting compost into the container and sprinkle a thin layer of active charcoal on top. 2) Dig A Hole For Your Plants Using the spoon, dig a small hole that allows adequate space for your chosen plants. 3) Add Your Plants Remove the plants from the pots, use gardening gloves if required, and gently massage the roots to loosen them from the soil. 4) Firm Up The Soil Place the plants in the hole and use the spoon to gently firm the soil around them to make sure they are securely in place. 5) Add Aquatic Gravel Add a layer of aquatic gravel. We do not recommend using decorative gravel as this will not provide sufficient levels of drainage. Top tip: If you find the plants in either style terrarium are covered in soil when you are finished, use a small paintbrush to gently brush the debris away. How Do Terrariums Work? There are two types of terrarium: sealed and open. Sealed ones have a removable lid while the open ones do not. Sealed Terrariums Sealed terrariums are pretty much self-sufficient. The temperature in the terrarium will be higher than room temperature, meaning the plants and soil will produce moisture. The moisture then evaporates and condenses on the side of the container, before trickling back down to the soil. This cycle will repeat, essentially recycling the water indefinitely. Being transparent, the container will also allow for photosynthesis to occur. Terrariums are therefore self-nourishing so require very little care and maintenance. Open Terrariums Terrariums mean you can design your own desert! As you would expect, open terrariums do not require a lid, and often the plants will grow up and out of their container. Unlike sealed terrariums, open ones create drier conditions instead of a moist environment. As they are exposed to open-air, these terrariums don’t have a regular water cycle so require watering frequently, usually once a week or when the soil becomes dry, and you notice leaves falling from plants. Desert plants are ideal for open terrariums as they don’t require humidity and need access to more oxygen and humidity to thrive. Best Plants For Terrariums Creating terrariums is exciting, but perhaps the most crucial decision before you begin is choosing the right plants for your new pint-sized garden. Where sealed terrariums are concerned, you are going to want to pick small, slow-growing foliage plants such as ferns, carnivorous plants and tropical plants that thrive in humidity. You basically get to create your own, personal, tiny rainforest! As mentioned, open terrariums generate dry conditions so you’ll want to include slow-growing air plants, cacti and succulents. With open terrariums, you can build your miniature dream desert. Caring For Your Terrarium Part of the joy of terrariums is they require very little attention; however, there are a few things you can do to ensure they stay healthy and last for as long as possible. If you are growing ferns, you can trim them occasionally to prevent them from outgrowing their little home. Keep an eye out for and remove yellowing or brown leaves as this can be a sign of pests and disease. With closed terrariums, you can occasionally take the lid off to allow it to get some fresh air. With open terrariums, do weekly checks to see if you have any visible pests such as gnats or mealy bugs. Sealed terrariums can be watered once a month, although it will depend on the plants you have chosen to include. Open terrariums benefit from being watered every 3-6 weeks. Dealing With Pests If you begin having problems with pests, then we recommend using insecticidal soap on the infected plant. However, if this doesn’t solve the problem quickly, it is best to remove the plant altogether to prevent further spread. You can then replace it with a fresh, new healthy plant. Top tip: Always check your plants before buying to make sure there are no pests or signs of disease. References 1. Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward. (n.d.). PlantExplorers.com. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.plantexplorers.com/explorers/biographies/ward/nathaniel-bagshaw-ward.htm 2. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward. (2019, June 4). The Linda Hall Library. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.lindahall.org/about/news/scientist-of-the-day/nathaniel-bagshaw-ward 3. Maylack, J. (2017, November 12). How a Glass Terrarium Changed the World. The Atlantic. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2017/11/how-a-glass-terrarium-changed-the-world/545621/
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Prune Buddleja To Increase Flowering - 'Remove Dying, Dead, Damaged Or Loose Stems'
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Buddleja? When To Prune Buddleja How To Prune Buddleja Perfectly Top Tips When Pruning Buddlejas You’ve Blooming Learnt Lots! The summer-flowering buddleja is easy to grow and just requires some yearly pruning to look wonderful. Commonly known as the ‘butterfly bush’, the aromatic flowers and spectacular blooming displays of buddleja are a favourite nectar source for butterflies. To help you enjoy the most out of your buddleja, this guide explains how and when to prune this fast-growing and flowering shrub. Why Prune Buddleja? Pruning refers to the removal of dying, dead or overgrown stems or branches to promote and encourage plant growth. Pruning helps to promote the well-being of shrubs such as encouraging them to grow properly and improving their quality. Most plants, including shrubs such as buddleja, benefit from maintenance and pruning. When caring for your shrubs, it is important to think of the two aspects of pruning. First, remove dying, dead, damaged or loose stems and branches from your plant. Then, prune back long stems on overgrown plants. Think of pruning as removing what’s harmful or useless to your shrub and training it on how it “should” grow. When To Prune Buddleja Left unpruned, buddleja will grow exceptionally large and all you will see are tangly twigs with lanky blooms right at the tips of the stems. Unless this is the look you are hoping for (and we can guess it is not), it is important to nail your pruning skills. Most buddleja flower on branches that grow in early summer, so ideally, you should prune your plant in early spring (usually March is recommended). However, severe frost (that sometimes arrives in spring thanks to the unpredictable British weather!), can cause damage to buddleja, so when to start pruning often depends on the weather. Keep a keen eye on the weather forecasts; if there is any mention of prolonged freezing temperatures or snow in the coming 10-day forecast, hold off from pruning a little longer. Bear in mind that buddlejas bloom on new wood. Even if there is no sign of damage or rot to the existing branches, cutting all the branches back near the ground in early spring will encourage beautiful blooms when the flowering season arrives. “If you have lots of buddlejas, especially if they’re in a group, you could delay the pruning of some of them until May,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “These plants will flower later, so can increase the flowering period. “However, if you plan on leaving the main prune for later, it is worthwhile pruning any tall, thin, wispy branches back by around half after flowering, in autumn.” How To Prune Buddleja Perfectly The right equipment can turn your garden from average to awesome, so before you start pruning your buddlejas, make sure you have secateurs, a pruning saw, and long-handled loppers in your tool kit. Using your secateurs, start by trimming back the top growth to around half its original height. This will make it easier to see what you are doing and will give you better access to the base. Next, grab your loppers or pruning saw and cut through the thick stems, at around 30cm above ground level. Don’t worry about being too scissors-happy; buddlejas are extremely vigorous and will quickly regrow. If possible, prune just a little higher than a growing shoot or bud. If you would prefer the plant to grow more than 3m in height, you should aim to leave the stems up to about 60cm long. Staying with your pruning saw or loppers, remove any dead branches or stubs. To minimise the chance of dieback, try to cut these back flush with the trunk. While you are doing this, remove any twiggy growth that you see growing from the base and thin out any crossing branches that you come across, removing the weakest one if two collide. Spent flower heads will also be removed at the same time. Again, do not fret about being too heavy-handed – this shrub will bounce back with a vengeance! While pruning buddleja, you should aim to produce a short but solid framework of five to six main branches, as Peter explains: “You may wish to slightly taper the height, so that the taller branches are in the middle.” Don’t worry if you cannot see many green shoots; buddleja will generate new growth from beneath the bark. Before finishing up (and making yourself a well-deserved brew!), lightly fork around the base to loosen any compaction you’ve caused by walking over the soil, and apply a mulch to the surface to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Top Tips When Pruning Buddlejas Stems you are keeping should be at least a foot tall. Trimming any shorter could cause damage to the shrub, so you should stop pruning when your stems are about a foot in length. Your buddleja should look a little like a stag’s antlers when you have finished pruning. Do not worry about how much you cut from the shrub. It is this intense pruning that helps the buddleja grow new flowers when the rainy season stops. Buddlejas can appear overcrowded if too many branches sprout out at once. If your buddleja looks thick or crowded, completely remove a few of the older branches to ground level, or where they join another, rather than just trimming them back. Buddleja flowers in lots of places. Both the main stems and side shoots can flower, so you should look in all places when you are seeking out dead flowers. You’ve Blooming Learnt Lots! Thanks for reading our buddleja pruning guide. Hopefully, you will now be inspired to maximise the potential in your beautiful garden. Remember that pruning is essential for your plant’s growth. By taking care of pruning on the front end, the less work you will need to do in the long haul. Pruning is all about the long term – and the best things are worth waiting for, after all.
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Cuttings Are A Great Way To Propagate A Cherished Rose Plant: Just Follow These Steps
IN THIS GUIDE When To Take Rose Cuttings Rose Cuttings Guidelines Softwood Rose Cuttings Semi-Ripe Rose Cuttings Hardwood Rose Cuttings Roses are, generally speaking, an easy and hassle-free plant to grow in your garden. There are roses suitable for many different soil types, climates and growing conditions. Once you find the right roses for you – you’ll surely want to plant more. Difficulty Moderate Equipment Required Secateurs, gloves, container, water, rooting powder (optional) When To Take Cuttings Differs by type (see below) But once you have your own well-established rose, you don’t always need to buy more plants – you can take rose cuttings and make new plants from the ones you already own. As long as your rose is not grafted, taking cuttings should yield duplicates of the parent plant. RHS Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly expands upon this point: “Some roses are grafted onto a rootstock to control the vigour of the plant – if you take a cutting from a grafted rose the result could be more or less vigorous than the parent plant.” “If you plan to sell the plants, at a garden club or plant fair, remember to find out if the plant has Plant Breeders Rights (PBR) attached to it. “You can propagate from these for personal use but not for selling – even for charity – without permission from the breeder.” Taking rose cuttings also allows you to obtain new and vigorous plants from an older rose bush that may have grown somewhat leggy and overgrown, or to keep a portion of a beloved rose to take with you to a new property. Cuttings can be a great way to retain a cherished rose if an original must be removed or left behind. When To Take Rose Cuttings The first thing to understand about taking rose cuttings is that there are slightly different procedures to follow depending on exactly when the cuttings are taken. You can take rose cuttings throughout the year, but when exactly you choose to do so will have a bearing on how easy the process will be. There are three different types of cuttings: Softwood cuttings are taken in late spring or early summer. You can take softwood cuttings at any time after the new, fresh, green and flexible growth appears. Softwood cuttings are generally the quickest to form roots, and do so most easily. Semi-ripe cuttings are taken in late summer or very early autumn. These are usually taken after blooms have faded. If you have not dead-headed too zealously, you may see rose hips beginning to form. At this time of year, stems have matured and are somewhat firmer and less flexible, but will not have hardened fully. Hardwood cuttings are taken in late autumn or early winter. Roses are ideal candidates for taking hardwood cuttings. But it is worth noting that hardwood cuttings are generally slowest and most difficult to root successfully. Rose Cuttings Guidelines Whenever you take your rose cuttings, there are a few very important guidelines to follow: Only take cuttings of new growth (growth that has formed in the current year). Select cuttings only from healthy, vigorous plants. Take cuttings early in the morning if possible, when they are well hydrated. Prepare a growing area or containers for your cuttings so they can be transferred there right away. Be ready before taking cuttings, so they do not dry out. When taking cuttings, always practice good hygiene. Make sure all tools, containers etc. are clean to avoid issues with diseases. Use a good, sharp blade to reduce stress to cuttings and the parent plant. The use of a rooting hormone is not absolutely essential, but it can increase the chances of success. You don’t necessarily have to buy rooting hormone however, there are a number of ways to make your own. You can use willow water, honey, apple cider vinegar and/or cinnamon, for example, to increase the chances that rose cuttings will root successfully. Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s take a look at how to take each of the different types of rose cuttings, step by step. Softwood Rose Cuttings Softwood rose cuttings may be the quickest to root. But though they root easily, they are also most susceptible to fungal problems and environmental issues. For softwood cuttings, take fresh, green growth in spring. While you can take tip cuttings, it is usually better to take what are called inter-nodal cuttings. Choose healthy stems of new growth and cut them off the parent plant. Cut just below a node (where leaves joined the stem). This will be the base of the cutting. Remove the top tip of growth, then cut the stem into portions, cutting each just above a node. (Aiming for cuttings that are around 5-10cm long.) Remove the lower leaves from each cutting, leaving just a few leaves on each one. Dip the base of each cutting into rooting powder or liquid (if you choose to use it). Place your cuttings into holes made with a dibber in your chosen container. Water well and cover with a plastic bag or cloche to retain humidity. Place in a warm location but out of direct sunlight, and remove the covering for at least 10 minutes once or twice a week to ventilate. Cuttings should be kept moist, and should have rooted within a month. Harden off your cuttings gradually before transplanting them into their final growing positions. Semi-Ripe Rose Cuttings Semi-ripe rose cuttings will be harder and more mature at the base and more flexible at the tip. Again, as with softwood rose cuttings, choose healthy stems. Cut at a 45 degree angle just above a node to remove the tip. And straight across to form the base of your cutting, just below a node. Aim for semi-ripe cuttings around 25-30cm long. Remove all but a couple of leaves at the top, and remove any thorns from the lower part of the cutting. Dip the ends of the cuttings with a rooting compound for greater chances of success. Place cuttings around the edges of a container, or in a prepared trench in a suitable growing area. Keep well-watered and they should be showing good signs of growth by the following spring. At this point they can usually be transferred to their final growing positions. Placing rose cuttings in a trench can maximise the chances of successful rooting of semi-ripe or hardwood cuttings. Hardwood Rose Cuttings The procedure for hardwood cuttings is exactly the same as for the semi-ripe cuttings mentioned above. Though hardwood cuttings are slower to root, they require less care, and can generally be left over winter with little care. But since hardwood cuttings can be rather slow to root: Once you have taken your cutting and cut it to size (as for semi-ripe cuttings above), damage the stem by paring off a little of the outer surface of the stem at the lowest node. This can weaken the cambium layer that lies below the surface and encourage faster root growth. It is best to use rooting compound with hardwood cuttings, so dip the ends of your cuttings. Roots will callus over winter and only start to develop in spring. Place your hardwood rose cuttings in a prepared container or trench 10-15cm (4-6inches) apart. Leave them in place to root until autumn the following year. Water well over the summer months.
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Get Planning And Start A Vegetable Patch In Your Garden With This 12 Step Guide
IN THIS GUIDE Get Planning 1) Choose The Right Spot 2) Decide What You Want To Grow 3) Start Designing Start Prepping 4) Must-Have Tools 5) Prepare The Soil Start Planting! 6) Arranging Your Plants 7) Choose Climbing Plants To Save Space 8) Consider Companion Planting 9) Make Use Of Pots & Containers 10) Time Your Crops Caring For Your Vegetable Patch 11) Pesky Pests 12) Fertilise Dream Vegetable Patch References There are few things more satisfying than enjoying a plateful of your very own homegrown vegetables. Vegetable patches have become increasingly popular over the last decade with more people wanting to be more self-sufficient. There is simply no comparison to the taste of a fresh potato or runner bean that you picked the same day; it is a wonderful reward for your hard work. That said, starting a vegetable patch can feel overwhelming for some, but it’s actually a lot easier than you imagine. Nothing beats the taste of homegrown vegetables… “I know so many people who are absolutely terrified about putting seeds in the ground,” says Kate Cotterill, Co-Director of She Grows Veg. “Even with the best will in the world, it is trial and error. I think the message is to just try it.” So if you are struggling to know where to begin, we’ve put together the best ideas for starting a vegetable patch. Get Planning Now that you have decided that you are ready to take on the challenge of starting your very own vegetable patch, then it’s time to start planning. Organisation is one of the critical aspects of growing a happy vegetable patch. A disorganised patch can lead to a whole bunch of problems, and you really want to give yourself the best possible chance right from the start. 1) Choose The Right Spot Most veggies need the sun to thrive, although some do well in dappled shade. Try to find a sunny spot where the ground is level and an area that is well protected from strong winds. Make sure you do not choose a space that’s under a tree as your crops will not grow if they are in full shade. “For those plants which have a preference for warmer conditions such as melons, cucumbers, cucamelons and peppers, we have a polytunnel and two greenhouses which keeps them happy,” shares Joe Harrison, Garden Blogger & Horticulturist. You may also want to try to choose a location close to a tap or water butt so you can avoid traipsing back and forth with your watering can. “If your chosen spot is not already sheltered, consider planting a low hedge, such as hornbeam,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “This will filter drying winds, which can also erode soil.” 2) Decide What You Want To Grow When it comes to choosing what to grow in your first vegetable patch, we recommend that you start small. For beginners, consider growing veg like potatoes, runner beans, carrots, strawberries, tomatoes, courgettes and similar. Choose plants that are both easy and rewarding and also consider your location and what works well there. “I live in an area prone to drought most of the growing season, so unless you want to be constantly watering, there will be some crops that are just better suited to be grown in the environment where I live,” says Kate. “If you live further north in the UK where there is a bit more rain and the conditions are different, there will be stuff that works better up there.” You should also consider how many people are going to be eating your crops – you don’t want to grow too much and end up letting it go to waste. It’s also a great idea to draw up a growing calendar, so you know when and what to plant. 3) Start Designing Make sure you sit down and draw out a plan of how you want your veggie patch to look. Ideally, you want to make sure you get the most out of the space, but that said you must avoid overcrowding. Make sure you consider the size of the veg you are hoping to plant and allow space for that too. Start Prepping Once you’ve designed your dream vegetable patch, it is time to start prepping the area so you can get planting as well as getting everything you will need to maintain it once it has been established. 4) Must-Have Tools There are few items that you will absolutely need when it comes to caring for your vegetable patch, and they are as follows: Garden rake Fork Wheelbarrow Gloves Pruning shears Trowel Hose or watering can Kneeling pad Stakes to support climbing plants 5) Prepare The Soil Give your patch a thorough digging over, as this will help to break up the soil. We recommend digging down to a minimum of one spade depth, but if you can go deeper then do! Make sure you are continuously weeding throughout this process. We highly recommend that you also dig in some compost to help you achieve the highest quality of soil. “Homemade compost or compost donated from someone who already has a plot is bulkier and preferable to bagged compost,’ says Peter. Manure is also extremely beneficial to your vegetable patch, just ensure it’s already rotted; otherwise, it will be too overbearing for the plants. If you have shallow soil, then adding compost and manure on top will help provide the depth needed to grow your veggies. Once you have finished preparing the soil, rake it level and tamp it down firmly with the back of the rake to consolidate it. Start Planting! Now that your soil is ready, it is finally time to start planting. “Don’t be afraid if stuff fails, get some seeds and start sowing them,” Kate says. Obviously, all plant needs vary, but we’ve put together a little guide to help you on your way. 6) Arranging Your Plants Plants despise overcrowding, and they will not thrive if they are all bunched up close together. Instead of growing your plants in rows or squares, we recommend that you instead opt for triangles so that you stagger the plants.1 This will help prevent the plants from being too close together, but it is also much more efficient as you will be able to plant up to 15% more plants in each bed. “I’m a bit of a rebel when it comes to vegetables and like to space them a little closer than what the books and packets generally recommend so that I can harvest plants a little younger when they’re more tender,” says Peter. “Doing this to excess will crowd out your crops, but as an example, I prefer harvesting loose cabbage leaves than giving space for plants to form a large head.” 7) Choose Climbing Plants To Save Space If you have a more modest-sized garden, you can utilise your space by growing vertically. Runner beans, peas, squash and melons are all great vertical growers. Use stakes, fences and trellises to support them, and you will be rewarded with a bountiful harvest. 8) Consider Companion Planting Some veggies grow particularly well when planted together, and choosing compatible crops will also help you make better use of your space. The strong stems of corn will help support runner beans, while squash will grow at ground level helping to prevent the growth of weeds. 9) Make Use Of Pots & Containers If you are restricted by the size of your garden, using pots and containers will give you greater flexibility without taking up too much room. If you are really struggling when it comes to space, then you could grow some of your veggies inside to help boost your harvest and allow for more variety in what you grow. This is especially effective for harvesting baby vegetables. 10) Time Your Crops By applying succession planting, you can then grow more than one crop throughout the growing season. If applied successfully, you will be able to harvest up to four crops from one single spot. By choosing plants that mature quickly, you can really get the most out of your harvest and will end up with a much more rounded variety of veggies. Caring For Your Vegetable Patch Once your vegetable patch is established, you must take good care of it to help it thrive. The more love you give, the more vegetables you will get in return, so it’s essential to be attentive and diligent in caring for your crops. 11) Pesky Pests Sadly, it is pretty much impossible to avoid pests in a vegetable patch. That said, we don’t advise you to douse your plot with pesticides and chemicals. 12) Fertilise Take care not to over-fertilise your vegetable patch. We recommend opting for a good organic fertiliser (something like comfrey tea) and use appropriately according to the instructions. “Allocating a small area to the less invasive comfrey ‘Bocking 14’ allows you to harvest your own comfrey tea,” says Peter. References 1. Smiling Gardener. (2015, August 29). Biointensive planting – The Triangle Method
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