Growing
Pruning Won't Benefit Juniper Directly - But It Can Help Maintain Its Shape Or Training
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Prune Juniper? When To Prune Juniper Avoid Cutting Away Too Much Growth Juniper can be a dependable choice for many UK gardens and there are a plethora of options when it comes to size, shape and form. There are junipers to grow as trees, some that can remain taller shrubs and others with prostrate form. Junipers are generally low-maintenance plants when placed in the right location. And even when it comes to maintenance jobs like pruning, less is more. Do You Need To Prune Juniper? There is debate as to whether or not this is a job that we need to undertake at all. In many cases, pruning is important because it helps the plants that we grow by keeping them in optimal health. However, with juniper, pruning will not benefit the plant itself. These are shrubs or trees that naturally form a well-shaped framework of branches and they do not need pruning to grow well. What’s more, they grow slowly, so pruning can set them back unnecessarily. That said, while we do not need to prune juniper, sometimes we may choose to do so to maintain a certain shape, train it into topiary forms or for aesthetic reasons. When To Prune Juniper If you do decide to prune a juniper, the best time to do so is in the early spring, after the coldest weather and before tender new growth emerges. Remember, pruning is typically not needed at all, but when you do wish to prune for aesthetic reasons, this is typically the time at which it will have the least impact on your plant. Avoid Cutting Away Too Much Growth If you do decide to prune juniper because you are shaping some topiary or wish to keep your juniper in check, the process is simple. Be circumspect and keep in mind that the fewer cuts you make, the better. The key thing to remember when pruning juniper is that new growth will not emerge from older wood where there are no needles at all, so do not prune back beyond the point where needles form on the green tips of branches unless you are removing an entire branch. You can remove entire branches for aesthetic effect and should also remove any dead or damaged branches which have no needles on at all, since, as mentioned above, these will not produce new growth. Use a pair of secateurs to remove individual portions of the juniper, rather than giving it an all-over shearing. Don’t take too much from the plant and never prune out more than a quarter in a given year or it will not recover. Remember, junipers are shapely and slow-growing, so even when you do decide to prune and form a juniper into a specific shape, you should be very careful about where you cut and how much material you take.
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Pruning Deutzia Like This Makes A Huge Difference To Plant Health And Longevity
IN THIS GUIDE Should I Prune My Deutzia Shrub? When To Prune Deutzia Maintenance Pruning Rebloom Pruning Rejuvenation Pruning Free-flowering Deutzias are the shrubs of choice for the one-minute gardener who wants to have it all. Over May and June, these plants can light up a garden with their charming little star-like blooms that range from bell-shaped to salver-shaped in whites and delicate shades and blushes of pink. Deutzia can be considered one of the best low-maintenance shrubs for which anything will do. However, all such shrubs have one or another point of care and for Deutzia, that point happens to be pruning. You don’t have to prune Deutzia, but correct pruning makes a great difference in the health and longevity of these shrubs, and can bring about a dramatic improvement in flowering. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs, pruning shears, bypass or anvil loppers When To Prune July Should I Prune My Deutzia Shrub? Deutzias differ greatly in their sizes and almost as much in their growth rates. Many varieties are well under 1m in height and spread while a few measure up to 3m tall and wide. Typically, the smaller varieties are bushy and mounded, while the bigger ones have gracefully arcing stems and are a little more open. Therefore, how you prune a Deutzia in its first or second year will depend on the variety. Also, depending on the variety, size, age and condition, you may be pruning anything from young green shoots to a thick woody branch or two. As such, you may need secateurs, pruning shears, bypass loppers or anvil loppers to complete this job. When To Prune Deutzia Deutzias are spring-blooming deciduous shrubs that flower on the previous season’s growth. This means that after a Deutzia is finished with blooming in early summer, it spends the rest of the growing season forming fresh growth that will bear the following spring’s blooms. Therefore, you should not prune this plant after this fresh growth emerges or you will be pruning away many of the following year’s flowers. So, the correct time to prune it is soon after flowering, which is usually around July here in the UK. Maintenance Pruning First, prune away dead and diseased stems at their attachments. Weak and spindly stems and shoots that bear few or no flowers should also be pruned. Finally, a stem growing crosswise against another should be pruned or trimmed. You can also conduct a type of tip pruning that will stimulate fresh flowering growth for the following season. Trim stems that have flowered by approximately one-half, no less than one-third and no more than two-thirds, trimming down to a set of strong and healthy side shoots. Pay special attention to old wood. These are stems that are woody, long and worn-looking with a very pronounced arc. “Each year one or two of these stems should be removed at the base (no more than 20% of the total number of stems) to encourage the growth of fresh stems which will flower the most strongly,” Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist, suggests. Similarly, you should also prune branches that did not produce flowers to maintain size and shape by removing them at the base. Water and feed the plant well after pruning. Rebloom Pruning Though it is highly irregular to mistreat Deutzias in the manner described here, try this trick if you’d like to tease your plant to produce a second flush of blooms out of season. Do not wait for the blooming season to end. Instead, when the blooming season is past its peak but still ongoing with around 10 more days to go, prune the shrub as described above. Water the plant well. Around 7-10 days later, feed the plant with a high-potash formula at only about 75% of the instructed strength and volume. Rejuvenation Pruning An overgrown and straggly Deutzia that has not been pruned and produces sparse flowers may be rejuvenated by a hard prune. This type of rejuvenation pruning is best done in early spring just when fresh growth emerges. Here, your aim is not to try to save the season’s flowers; it is to reboot the shrub to start it from scratch. If you do, you’ll sacrifice whatever flowers the shrub may bear during the current season to gain renewed flowering from the year after. Prune up to one-half of the stems and side shoots at their origins, then trim from one-half to one-third of the entire shrub, making each cut just above a node. Be sure to leave behind young branches and shoots and some emerging growth. About a week later, feed it with an all-purpose balanced fertiliser, using it at only 50% of the recommended strength and volume; applying it at a safe distance from the roots.
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Deutzia Can Be Grown To Fill Beds, Create Borders Or Plant On Slopes - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Deutzia Deutzia Plant Care Common Deutzia Varieties For an undemanding and no-fuss shrub, Deutzia is a gardener’s jackpot. It produces glorious arrays of charming star-like blooms in white and pinks, often fragrant or double form, over a backdrop of brilliant green picture book leaves. If you’re in the market for a low-slung, ornamental hedge, perhaps a bushy, mounding shrub will fit the bill. Deutzia is made to order for a hedge of the type described above as much as it is to fill beds, make borders, plant on slopes and verges and choose as a companion plant. Overview Botanical Name Deutzia Plant Type Perennial shrub Native Area China Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small, five-petalled, star-like, bell-shaped, cup-shaped or salver-shaped, pendent or erect flowers borne in clusters When To Plant June or September These exceptionally pest-free and disease-resistant shrubs are very hardy at H5, have no positional requirements whatsoever and can make do in even a shady spot with poor-draining soil. But unlike many other no-fuss plants, this one bears flowers like there’s no tomorrow, racking up huge bloom counts across May and June. How To Grow Deutzia Planting Deutzias may be planted anytime from summer to mid-autumn, especially if you live in colder regions of the country, excluding any hot spells and rainy days. However, planting it in the milder months of June or September and avoiding the hot summer months will allow the plant to establish itself quicker. Because of the great diversity in garden Deutzia varieties, some will perform better in full sun and others in partial shade, but you can’t go wrong if you choose one or the other. They may be sited in any exposure but sheltered is preferable and as for aspect, simply avoid north-facing. Using the type of soil described underneath, prepare a planting hole about 1.5 times the width of the pot or root system. If it is a young plant, dip the roots in water and gently spread them out before planting, but if it is a mature plant, leave the soil ball as it is. Dip the roots with a soil ball in water but do not interfere with them. As you backfill the hole, dampen the soil and tamp it down, ensuring that the soil level is no higher than it was in the pot. Soil Requirements One of the several merits of these low-maintenance shrubs is their ability to thrive in any type of soil. However, to get the best out of these plants, take a mixed loam as a base and amend it by one-third of its volume with humus compost or other organic compost. Shovel in some grit and perlite to ensure good drainage. “As with most woody shrubs, in subsequent years I would recommend an annual mulch in a ‘doughnut ring’ around the base with good organic matter such as garden compost or rotted manure in the autumn,” shares Horticultural Consultant Roy Nicol. “This improves the soil structure over time and allows a good root run to access water and nutrients in the soil.” Container Growing You cannot make an overall generalisation about container growing where Deutzias are concerned because these woody shrubs differ so much in size. We suggest that varieties that are 2m or more in height and spread not be grown in containers. After all, there are quite a few varieties that are just perfect for pots. When you grow these shrubs in a container, choose a pot that is one size bigger than you would choose for a similarly sized shrub of some other genus. Deutzia Plant Care Watering & Feeding Though Deutzias are not bog plants nor are they drought-tolerant, established plants of various varieties can put up with both overwatering and poor-draining soil and with short dry spells. During the growing season, water the shrub deeply and allow the soil down to a few centimetres to become dry before watering again. In normal mild weather, watering once or twice a week, accounting for rain, should suffice. During the dormant season, after the plant has shed its leaves, water plants in pots infrequently so that the roots stay hydrated and do not dry out. Any high-quality all-purpose fertiliser applied annually upon the arrival of spring will bring forth healthy growth and blooms. Propagating Via Cuttings Though quite a few Deutzias can be propagated by both softwood and hardwood cuttings in different seasons, all can be propagated by softwood cuttings in the summer, with June being the best month. Prepare a small pot with cuttings compost. I like layering the media in a pot so that the cutting not only roots but can also grow and thrive in the same pot. To use this method, put pebbles and grit at the bottom, then readymade potting compost or a mix of organic compost and sand, with a final layer of perlite and sand with a touch of compost for the uppermost layer. Either way, moisten the medium. Water the plant well in the early morning, then cut an 8-10cm length from a softwood shoot. It should be green for most of its length and greyish-brown in the bottom section. Make the cut just below a node, then strip the lower leaves, retaining the upper two or three leaves. Dip the base to a third of its length in rooting hormone gel or in honey and cinnamon. Insert it to about a third of its length in the pot and moisten it. Common Problems Deutzias are uncommonly resistant to pests and diseases. The only problems you need to watch out for in the UK are aphids and honey fungus. While aphids are quite easily controlled, honey fungus is one of the most serious fungal infections which is hard to detect early and from which there is no recovery. Common Deutzia Varieties For a plant that is not exactly world famous, Deutzia encompasses quite an astonishing number of varieties in the form of crosses, hybrids and derivative cultivars, besides the many species. The selections offered underneath are chosen to reflect this diversity in lineage but are also amongst the prettiest, most popular and most readily-sourced varieties. D. gracilis Rising to almost 1m with a spread only a little smaller, the Japanese Snow Flower is aptly named for its star-like, salver-shaped, small flowers that are snow white. These delightfully fragrant blooms are held aloft in upright sprays. D. gracilis ‘Nikko’ Deutzia gracilis has very many cultivars of which ‘Nikko’ is one. Its flowers resemble those of the species plant but this compact cultivar rises to only 60cm with twice the spread. Its leaves put on shades of purple in the autumn and this cultivar has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. D. scabra ‘Plena’ A tall variety reaching 2.5-3m with about half the spread, Deutzia scabra ‘Plena’ produces double-form white flowers whose outer petals often show a pinkish-purple tinge. The nodding flowers are borne on dense panicles. D. crenata ‘Pride Of Rochester’ Breaking the mould, ‘Pride of Rochester’ has small, double blooms that are white with decorative pink flushes on the petals appearing in highly varying degrees. It grows to about 2.5 metres and is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Deutzia pulchra Not only beautiful but big at about 2m tall, beautiful Deutzia lives up to its name. Its pendant panicles contain shy and demure little blooms that feature rich pink blushes on the white petals. D. × magnifica ‘Rubra’ This Deutzia justifies its various complimentary names, as it produces bigger-than-average, rosy flowers. Born in panicles, these blooms vary in colour from soft pink to pinkish-red with marvellous tonal gradations. It grows to about 2m tall and has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. D. × elegantissima ‘Rosealind’ A compact variety at about 70cm tall with a spread of a little over 1m, the floriferous ‘Rosealind’ bears flowers in big, thick clusters. These little blooms are a classic candy pink to reddish-pink hue. It has achieved the RHS Award of Garden Merit.
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Planting Any Of These 13 Native Hedging Plants Can Be A HUGE Boost To Local Wildlife
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Common Hawthorn 2) Blackthorn 3) Common Alder 4) Common Beech 5) Hazel 6) Common Holly 7) Bird Cherry 8) Common Gorse 9) Common Dogwood 10) Common Hornbeam 11) Dog Rose 12) Crab Apple 13) Common Yew What About Box? References Native plant species are renowned as an important source of food and shelter for local wildlife. This includes birds and pollinators, which have developed alongside native species for thousands of years in the UK’s unique climate.1 They each have common properties which lend themselves to benefitting the local environment: A propensity to flower and/or produce edible fruit for wildlife (such as berries) A tendency to grow to a large size – offering shelter to birds, insects and other wildlife Their longevity – most are fully hardy perennials that will offer benefits year-after-year For these reasons, planting native shrubs is, in my opinion, one of the most beneficial changes gardeners can make for their local environment. Here are thirteen of my favourite hedging shrubs, each with its own special properties, that are all native to the UK – 1) Common Hawthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Crataegus monogyna HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: cream and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring If an all-rounder award is given to a British hedging shrub, Hawthorn probably gets the nod. It is so dense and thorny that it makes a top security barrier. Next, it attracts and supports numerous species of birds, butterflies and bees, bringing joy to your garden. During spring, Hawthorns are bedecked with charming creamy-pink blossoms which are even sweetly scented, whilst in autumn, glossy red berries and orange-golden leaves add further colour. “If I could only choose one native hedging plant then I would opt for Hawthorn,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “A good dense hedge but also with attractive flowers in early summer and berries in autumn. It’s very popular with pollinators and birds, they hum with life.” 2) Blackthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus spinosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Blackthorn’s dense growth and spiny stems make it another excellent choice for a security barrier. Although it has other merits, the most attractive thing about it is the stunning explosion of white blossom it displays early in the spring before the foliage has emerged. These pretty white flowers draw numerous bees and butterflies as well. Over summer and autumn, Blackthorn is adorned with deep blue berries and these too bring in their own share of birds and small wildlife to your garden. 3) Common Alder BOTANICAL NAME: Alnus glutinosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: brown FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Alder hedging can tolerate poor and waterlogged soil, so it is heaven-sent for those who are struggling to grow a hedge in their neck of the woods. Its foliage, consisting of brilliant green rounded leaves, is a refuge for small birds, moths and a variety of insect life. Alder hedging provides a rustic sort of decor that changes with the seasons. Purple-brown buds, dangling catkins and small cones, all in one hedge! 4) Common Beech BOTANICAL NAME: Fagus sylvatica HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: green FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Beech is commonly thought of as a tall tree, which it is, but it is also grown as a hedge. After autumn, this shrub holds on to its dead russet foliage so tightly that it stays put clear into spring. Spring is also when the loveliest of leaves emerge that are elliptic to oval with symmetric veins as if embossed and of a delicate, summery, light green hue. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 5) Hazel BOTANICAL NAME: Corylus avellana HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring In spring, Hazel displays delightful foliage made up of light and bright green, crinkly leaves, rounded with wavy margins. Darkening as the seasons progress, in mid-autumn they adopt tones of yellow and orange. Also in autumn, the hedge bears nuts for you to snack on in winter – if you can beat the squirrels to them! It is in that bleak midwinter that this hedge produces furry yellow catkins, taking them into spring. 6) Common Holly BOTANICAL NAME: Ilex aquifolium HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer This hedge is adorned with pretty little white flowers over spring and summer. As for those familiar glossy deep green leaves, toothed and spiny, they are present all year round. Across autumn and winter, you’ll get those equally familiar spanking red berries. Cut off a cluster with some foliage to bring in some Christmas cheer! Another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 7) Bird Cherry BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus padus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Featuring intensely green foliage, Bird Cherry also features intense whites and blacks! By mid-spring, this hedge is loaded with an abundance of small intensely white flowers from which waft a delicious nutty scent. Then, in late summer, the blossoms transform into purplish berries which turn intensely black. Those flowers pull in pollinators, whilst the berries draw in birds and mammals. 8) Common Gorse BOTANICAL NAME: Ulex europaeus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring Evergreen and flaunting thorns and spines as foliage, diminutive Gorse is at least an impenetrable security barrier. Also, it grows well in virtually any type of soil, including poor soil and in coastal regions. It is much appreciated for its small pea-like flowers; these are bright mustard-yellow and release an unusual and distinctive coconut-like scent. These start in late winter and continue into early summer. 9) Common Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus sanguinea HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Clusters of pretty white flowers emerge in late spring and last into summer, bringing many a colourful butterfly to your Dogwood hedge. And, when these transform into black-coloured berries in autumn, you’ll see even more birds, including robins and thrushes. This is a deciduous hedge, but the height of colour interest comes in winter, as after the copper-orange leaves are shed, your Dogwood hedge will be a tangle of bare stems that glow blazing red! 10) Common Hornbeam BOTANICAL NAME: Carpinus betulus HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: green FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Heavy ridging and symmetric venation mark Hornbeam’s distinctive foliage. These serrated leaves are a shimmering yellowish-green and put an autumn show when they glow in yellow and copper shades. The greenish catkins span late spring to early autumn, and when they turn into fruit, they draw in an abundance of birds and small wildlife. Finally, deciduous Hornbeam doesn’t become bare – it hangs on to most of its leaves through winter! This shrub has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 11) Dog Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa canina HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A Dog Rose hedge will reward you with flowers that rival the blooms of some flowering plants. A good 5cm across, the salver-shaped flowers are gradated in white and pastel pink with a sunny centre. They have a mild scent and draw in many pollinators. The blooms are seen during most of the summer and are followed by decorative bright red rose hips, which attract an astonishing array of even more decorative and colourful birds. As ornamental hedging, Dog Rose is unbeatable. 12) Crab Apple BOTANICAL NAME: Malus sylvestris HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Crab Apple may not be thought of as a hedging shrub but it is, and what’s more, it is a dual-valued play. The nicely ovate leaves are a deep, gleaming tone of green. Over much of spring, this hedge adorns itself with innumerable light, delicate, pink-flushed blossoms, which is the decorative value. Then, in late autumn, as you admire the glowing orange foliage, Crab Apple hedging proves its utilitarian value; little tart apples to pick and make applesauce, pies and wine with! 13) Common Yew BOTANICAL NAME: Taxus baccata HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Way back when, an English country estate would not be considered complete without Yew hedging. The very narrow, almost needle-like, leaves are a saturated shade of green and grow very densely, causing the hedge as a whole to appear to be a dark green wall. Fairly easy to maintain and amenable to shaping, evergreen Yew makes a fantastic boundary wall, topiary or sculpture. An RHS Award of Garden Merit winner. What About Box? You might be wondering why a shrub synonymous with hedging did not make our cut. Box, or Buxus, is sadly being ravaged in the UK. Box blight and box tree caterpillar are the primary diseases that are devastating Box and outright killing these hedges, defeating gardeners’ valiant rearguard actions. Therefore, until horticulturists and manufacturers succeed in turning the tide, I cannot recommend Box. References 1. ‘UK native’ plants and fungi. (2022, June 28). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved July 6, 2023, from https://growwild.kew.org/blog/uk-native-plants-and-fungi
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Phillip Harkness On Yellowing Rose Leaves - 'Prevention Is Better Than The Cure'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Spider Mite Infestation 2) Black Spot 3) Nutrient Deficiencies 4) A Lack Of Nitrogen 5) Underwatering The Soil 6) Overwatering Or A Lack Of Sun Roses are perhaps the most cherished of flowering bushes because their blooms are the most prized of flowers. Unfortunately, little that is cherished and prized comes easily and roses are no exception – meaning they can succumb to many a pest, disease and deficiency. One symptom of many problems is yellowing leaves. Not only are yellow leaves on a rose bush a disconcerting sight, they always indicate an issue that is best diagnosed and treated urgently. Underneath we lay out six causes of yellow leaves on rose bushes and also make some suggestions for treatment. 1) Spider Mite Infestation Spider Mites are one of the more common types of pests that rose bushes are vulnerable to. If the infestation is an advanced one, the rose bush, unfortunately, may not be saveable, but caught early enough, spider mites can be eradicated. First, wash off all the mites and strands with jets of water from a hose. Next, apply a plant insecticide strictly according to the maker’s instructions. Finally, release biological controls such as lacewings, mite-feeding ladybirds and such. 2) Black Spot A fungal disease, black spot is one of the more common, as well as one of the more serious, diseases that can affect a rose bush. “Plants are no different to people, prevention is better than cure,” shares Philip Harkness, from Harkness Roses. Fortunately, it can be treated with fungicides. Apart from treating the disease, you will also need to take steps to prevent it from spreading. “Milder, wetter counties are perfect conditions for black spot,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “If you find that your rose is prone, rather than repeatedly spraying with fungicide, remove it and replace it with a cultivar that has better resistance.” 3) Nutrient Deficiencies As the problem could be either iron deficiency or alkaline soil or both, the best course of action is to first test the soil pH. If the soil pH is higher than 7.5, then the reason is alkaline soil, but if it is up to 7.0, then the problem is iron deficiency (or possibly magnesium or sulphur deficiency). You could treat each issue independently or apply sulphate of iron which will resolve both problems, albeit over time. Dilute and use according to the manufacturer’s instructions. As a more immediate treatment, apply chelated iron as a foliar spray. It is a niche product that is made by specialist manufacturers. Apply foliar sprays near dawn in the late evening or on overcast days. 4) A Lack Of Nitrogen A nitrogen deficiency in the soil can also be caused by an alkaline soil pH. First test the soil pH with a pH meter. If it is 7.5 or higher, then you should acidify the soil. The quick and easy way to acidify soil is by amending the soil with ericaceous compost, particularly if the problem is not acute. “If you have alkaline soil or acidic soil, I would recommend not trying to grow roses rather than trying to tackle the underlying soil conditions, which will always prevail in the end,” says Colin. “Alternatively, search for a rose that will tolerate a wider range of conditions – most rose nurseries will have some options.” If the soil could use some added fertility and richness, you could kill two birds with one stone by amending it with well-rotted chicken manure. If the soil is very alkaline, mix sulphate of ammonia into the compost or manure. It will not only lower the soil pH, but it will also introduce Nitrogen into the soil. If the soil pH checks out and the problem is a nitrogen deficiency, blood meal will do the trick in normalising it. The rose bush will take time to recover, so bear this in mind. 5) Underwatering The Soil Drench the soil. Afterwards, be sure to water the bush properly and not let the soil stay dry for any great length of time, especially during hot weather. If you have eliminated all the preceding possibilities in trying to diagnose the cause of yellow leaves on your roses, then the final issue might be harder to diagnose. 6) Overwatering Or A Lack Of Sun Roses need to be planted in a full sun spot. If your rose bush is growing in the shade, it will need to be transplanted to a sunny spot or the objects or elements that are throwing shade on the bush will need to be adjusted. Though roses unquestionably need water, the soil should not stay wet, let alone waterlogged. These shrubs need to be rooted in well-draining soil that is light and not dense or clayey. If the problem is overwatering, the solution is easy enough. Although you cannot prevent all the problems that may affect a rose bush, a defensive approach is well-suited for rose growers. “Don’t be afraid or frightened of the task,” says Philip. “Plants, not just roses, have the will to live and survive. As long as you try to help your garden plants with careful cultivation, they are hard to kill.” You have to get factors like sunlight, soil constituents, soil moisture, soil pH and proper nourishment right for roses more than for most other shrubs because roses are more vulnerable to a variety of pests and diseases.
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Keep Plumeria ‘Frangipani’ Houseplants Happy With These Growing Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Plumeria Frangipani Care References Plumeria, also known as ‘Frangipani’, is a fragrant, tropical plant that can also be grown in our temperate climate as a houseplant. While these plants can sometimes be placed outdoors in the summer months, they are most commonly grown as houseplants and kept indoors year-round. They make excellent conservatory or greenhouse plants and can also potentially be grown in a bright spot elsewhere inside your home. Overview Botanical Name Plumeria Common Name(s) Frangipani Plant Type Shrub or tree, mainly grown as a houseplant Native Area Neotropics Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Deciduous or evergreen Flowers Exotic blooms in a range of shades When To Plant Year-round Frangipani belongs to a genus of flowering plants in the Apocynaceae plant family.1 Most are shrubs or small trees endemic to the Neotropics of Mexico, Central and South America.2 They are also grown widely as ornamentals in tropical regions around the globe and there are nineteen accepted species within this genus, according to Kew.3 The appearance of the foliage and the flowers depends on which species and which particular cultivar is grown. However, one defining characteristic of this genus is that the flowers are strongly scented, especially at night. When choosing a frangipani, you will need to select a plant to purchase. Since these plants can take a long time to flower, you should generally aim to purchase as large a plant as you can – in order to enjoy their impact more quickly. Of course, the form and flowers of these plants can vary greatly. Common Varieties Many of the varieties grown in the UK belong to the species Plumeria rubra, though sometimes, other species are grown. P. rubra is a deciduous type of frangipani. There are also evergreen types, including P. obtusa ‘Singapore White’ and P. pudica ‘Bridal Bouquet’. P. pudica ‘Bridal Bouquet’ Common and highly regarded options to grow as houseplants in the UK include: P. rubra ‘Aztec Gold’ P. ‘Black Widow’ There are also plenty of other interesting cultivars to consider which have different coloured flowers or different foliage. How To Grow Plumeria Like other tropical houseplants, Plumeria can take some effort to grow. It is also important that you choose a suitable location in which to grow it. However, if the right environmental conditions are provided, this is a plant that can grow successfully indoors over a number of years. Winter care can be especially important. Plumeria can be planted up into pots or planted into the ground in a greenhouse border as long as that greenhouse remains warm enough throughout the year. Frangipani should be placed in a bright location throughout the growing season, with temperatures that remain consistently above 15°C during the winter months, as at temperatures any colder than this, the growing tips can rot. Soil Requirements In containers, these plants should be provided with good quality, free-draining potting mix, such as John Innes no. 2, with some sharp sand or grit added to improve the drainage. Every second year, the plants should be repotted and moved into a slightly larger container. In alternate years when not repotting, the top 5cm of the growing medium should be removed and replaced with fresh compost. Growing From Seed Some Plumeria blossoms are infertile, so this is not typically a plant that is propagated by seed. However, where seeds do develop, these can be sown in spring or summer and then covered over lightly. They will need temperatures of 20-24°C for successful germination. Frangipani Care Keeping frangipani happy as a houseplant means understanding the care that they require and, crucially, how that care differs from one part of the year to another. “I have grown Frangipani in an unheated conservatory, being careful to move it into a bright spot in the house from November to March,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. ‘It can struggle with the change of light levels but recovers once back in the conservatory – on warmer winter days I will move it back into the conservatory to benefit from the light and then back inside as temperatures drop.” Watering Over the active growing season between spring and autumn, you should water freely when the Plumeria is dry. However, take care not to overwater and ensure that excess water can drain away freely. In winter, frangipani should be kept very dry. In the coldest months, these houseplants should not be watered at all and should be treated in much the same way as cacti are over the winter months. You should only start watering again from around the middle of March. Feeding Between April and the end of August, it is good practice to feed frangipani every couple of weeks with a balanced organic liquid feed, such as compost tea. However, make sure that you do not feed these plants over the winter and leave it at least 5-6 weeks before you feed them again after repotting. Pruning It is best to avoid pruning Plumeria, as the wood is very soft and rot can set in easily. If you absolutely must cut back some growth, then do this in early spring, towards the tail end of the dormant period before the plant returns to active growth. Cut back the growth that must be removed to where the next shoot or branch joins. Generally, if plants are overgrown, they should be replaced, as they will not respond well to renovation pruning. Propagating Frangipani can be propagated by means of cuttings, which are best taken in February or March. Cuttings around 10-15cm long should be taken from shoot tips. These cuttings should then be left in a warm, dry spot for a couple of days for the ends to callus over. Once the callus has formed over the cut end, the cuttings should be inserted into a free-draining compost mix and put into a propagator with bottom heat. Keep the cuttings fairly dry, as excessive wet can cause them to rot. In ideal conditions, the cuttings should root within 4-6 weeks. Common Problems Most of the problems encountered when growing Plumeria relate to environmental conditions. For example, there may be problems if there is not enough light, temperatures drop too low, the conditions are too wet or too dry, or drainage is not sufficient. Red spider mites may also occasionally become problematic when growing this plant under glass. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.). Plumeria rubra. Oxford University Plants 400: Retrieved June 14, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/op/Plumeria 2. Tiernan, N. (2021, May 18). Taxonomy and Systematics of Plumeria L. (Apocynaceae) in the Caribbean Islands. FIU Digital Commons. Retrieved June 14, 2023, from https://digitalcommons.fiu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=6155&context=etd 3. Plumeria Tourn. ex L. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001863-2
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You Can Grow A New Barberry Bush From Your Existing Plant - Here Are 3 Methods
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Take Cuttings From An Existing Plant 2) Grow From Seed 3) Layering Berberis, commonly known as ‘Barberries’, are a group of evergreen and deciduous shrubs that are widely grown for their attractive foliage and ability to entice wildlife into the garden. Growing berberis via propagation can prove challenging, with different methods recommended for different species. Luckily, we’re here to explain all. Propagating new berberis plants can be achieved by following one of three methods: Taking berberis cuttings from an existing plant. Growing berberis from seed after a period of cold stratification. Layering from existing plants, by wounding and pegging an existing stem under the soil. These different processes are explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Secateurs, a knife, pots or seed trays, propagator, pegs 1) Take Cuttings From An Existing Plant Semi-ripe nodal, heel or mallet cuttings taken in summer can be used to propagate some deciduous and evergreen berberis with good success. Nodal cuttings can be used for vigorous species by taking 10-15cm lengths of new growth about 1cm thick from mid-summer until autumn. Heel cuttings are widely used due to their chance of striking and are taken from thin green side shoots that are gently pulled away from the main stem, taking a heel of slightly woody stem with them. Mallet cuttings can be used to propagate thin-stemmed varieties, including the popular Japanese Berberis thunbergii. These are side-shoots of current season’s growth which include a small piece of the older stem they are joined to. Cut 1cm of older stem above and below where the side shoot joins, the base of which can be inserted in the potting medium. With all semi-ripe cuttings, choose healthy material and use a pair of clean and sharp secateurs or a knife. Place the cuttings in a free-draining cuttings mix, cover to prevent drying out and keep the soil moist until they root. “Try to prevent cuttings from touching each other, as any rotting could easily transfer this way,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Once rooted, the cuttings can be potted up individually and grown on over winter under cover, ready to plant out the following year. “Check for rooting by looking through the holes in the bottom of the pot,” adds Peter. 2) Grow From Seed Berberis seeds can be sourced from online suppliers or harvested from existing plants in the autumn, but will need a period of cold stratification to germinate. However, keep in mind that, due to hybridisation, growing from collected seeds may not produce plants true to their parent. Once collected, the seeds can be sown straight away into trays or pots filled with a seed-sowing compost mix and placed in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame over winter. If sowing purchased berberis seeds, it is advisable to follow the timings above to encourage the seeds to break dormancy and germinate. Germination can take several months, but once large enough to handle, the seedlings can be potted individually and only planted out when they reach a suitable size. 3) Layering Another technique that can be used for propagating berberis is layering. This method is commonly used for plants and shrubs that do not take easily from cuttings. Evergreen berberis shrubs are best layered in spring, whilst deciduous species are often layered in the autumn. To propagate by layering, select a healthy and long stem that can easily be bent down to touch the soil. Using a clean and sharp knife, carefully wound the outside of the chosen stem 20-40cm from the stem’s tip at a leaf joint and peg the wounded section just under the surface of the soil, with the tip free to grow upright. “To make a wound, I usually make a shallow flap on the edge of the stem with my knife and I prop this open with a small, dry twig,” explains Peter. “I use a pencil or dibber, rubbed on clothing to generate some static, to transfer a small amount of rooting powder inside this wound.” After 8-12 months, the layered stem should have produced roots from the wound and can be separated from the parent plants and potted up to grow. Whichever method of propagation is chosen, this process will take time, and it can be at least 2-3 years until the new plants might bloom. However, propagating can be a very rewarding and cost-effective way of producing new berberis specimens.
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Transplanting Dogwood? Minimise Root Damage By Pruning Top Growth Says Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE When To Transplant Dogwood Siting Your Dogwood Shrub How To Transplant Dogwood Dogwoods are shrubs and small trees in the Cornus genus. There are options grown primarily for their flowers and others grown for their berries, autumn foliage or vibrant winter stems. Dogwood shrubs can be transplanted at any time of year, but they might struggle to reestablish well if the weather is too dry and hot. The time to plant or move them is typically between autumn and spring, during the dormant period, as bare-root plants. Ideally, these shrubs are best moved in the autumn if possible. To transplant a dogwood: Determine and prepare a suitable new location for the dogwood you are growing. Lift the plant from its current position (ideally in autumn). Using a spade, create your new planting hole. Place the plant in its new position and firm the soil around it. Water well and apply an organic mulch. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Spade, watering can, dogwood plant, mulch When To Transplant Autumn When To Transplant Dogwood The best time to transplant a dogwood shrub is in the autumn. While it is possible to move one through most of the year, this is the time that will make it easiest for the plant to become well-established in its new position. Siting Your Dogwood Shrub Where precisely you should place a dogwood shrub for best results depends on which species of Cornus you are dealing with. The Cornus varieties that are grown for their vibrant stems in winter usually need a position in full sun with moist to damp soil. Other types typically thrive in a sheltered as well as sunny position, with moist but well-drained soil that has a neutral to acidic pH. It is important to know which dogwood you are growing so that you can match the new location to that plant’s specific growing and environmental needs, as this varied group of shrubs and small trees can have a range of distinct needs. How To Transplant Dogwood Ease a spade or fork in and under the edges of the existing plant, trying to lift and keep intact as much of the root system as possible. Lift the plant up from the soil using the spade. Dig your new planting hole large enough to comfortably accommodate the root system of the existing dogwood plant. Place the plant in the soil, making sure that it sits at the same depth that it did in its previous position. Firm the surrounding soil gently back around the plant with your heel. To make sure that the plant gets off to the best possible start in its new location, water in well. Then, spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant, ensuring that this is not touching the trunk or the stems. The mulch will provide slow-release fertility, suppress weed growth and, crucially, help conserve moisture in the soil. “Transplanting inevitably causes some root damage, so the plant’s ability to anchor itself and take up water is affected,” shares Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. “To compensate for this, prune back the top growth. If transplanting in autumn, this may be a light prune of around a third or a harder prune during drier summer weather. “These plants’ knack for suckering means that young suckers can be lifted from one clump and transplanted somewhere else to establish a new clump, following a similar method. You will need to cut their point of attachment roughly 30cm from where the stems emerge.”
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Pruning Dogwood Can Help Maximise The Ornamental Appeal Of Their Colourful Stems
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Dogwood? When To Prune Dogwood The Pruning Process Hard Pruning Dogwood Dogwood shrubs, not to be mixed up with dogwood trees, are unusual and extremely interesting plants with a very special twist. Though the vast majority of their varieties display variegated or wonderfully coloured foliage, produce an abundance of tiny flowers and even bear little berries, they are valued most for their technicolour stems. It is because of these stems that these fully hardy deciduous shrubs provide winter colour you can enjoy the sight of a decorative latticework of crimson or golden stems breaking the monotony of the grey sky above and the white snow beneath. It must be said that you don’t need to prune a dogwood shrub. However, pruning is highly desirable and can help to maximise the shrub’s ornamental appeal, including the stems’ brilliant colourings. Underneath we guide you on the whys, whens, and hows on pruning dogwood shrubs. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs or pruning shears, occasionally a pruning saw When To Prune February is best, though anytime during winter dormancy will suffice Why Prune Dogwood? Dogwood shrubs, like many members of the plant kingdom, respond to pruning with a burst of fresh growth. The most richly-coloured stems on a dogwood shrub are the young growth and the greyest, dullest ones are the oldest. This is one reason that pruning can be beneficial for these shrubs, as you can get rid of the least colourful and ornamental stems and replace them with new brightly-coloured ones. These shrubs can also become straggly and unkempt or look unbalanced as a result of uneven growth or a poor pruning job last time around. A proper trim will improve the aesthetics of a dogwood shrub by restoring size, shape and balance. Another reason to prune arises when dense, overlapping growth causes these shrubs to become congested. Pruning unwanted stems to reduce congestion and open up the shrub is another way to restore or enhance its ornamental appeal. When To Prune Dogwood Instead of waiting until your dogwood shrub needs pruning, best practice suggests that you give it an annual prune. This can be done anytime during winter dormancy, but the ideal timeframe is late February, as this will allow you to enjoy the sight of those colourful stems during the winter. Annual maintenance pruning should not be done when the shrub is in its first year, so only prune from the second year onwards. Similarly, a hard prune or cutback should not be attempted when the shrub is one or two years old – you may do so only after it is three years old or more. The Pruning Process Use a pair of sharp secateurs and sterilise the blades with diluted rubbing alcohol or diluted bleach before using. Prune down to the ground any stems that are dead, diseased or growing at a sharp angle. Select the weaker of any which rub together, and remove these too. Also, cut down stems that are old. They will be greyish and will display a rough texture. “You can cut the oldest stems, where the colour is confined to the very tips, back to a pair of buds between ground level and a height of around 40cm,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. Finally, judiciously prune the remaining stems – those with stronger colour – for length and shape so as to attain a balanced and symmetric form. Generally, these stems should be trimmed by about one-half of their lengths. Thin, wispy stems can be cut back harder. Feel free to prune some stems down to about 10cm. The fresh growth this pruning will stimulate will result in a profusion of very brightly-coloured stems. Hard Pruning Dogwood If your dogwood shrub is congested and overgrown, you can reboot it with a hard prune. To do so, cut back all the stems on the shrub to about 10cm above the ground. Aim to make the cut just above the first or second leaf node. Cut each stem with a pair of sterilised secateurs or pruning shears, loppers or a pruning saw. If using a pruning saw, make a small incision on one side, and then cut across from the other side to meet this. This helps prevent snagging and tearing of stems. Again, the right time is during winter dormancy. Yes, it will be a time-consuming chore, but consider it a labour of love. You will surely reap a brilliantly-coloured reward! “I think dogwoods look best en masse, in large drifts or clumps, if you have the space,” says Peter. “To add interest and a tiered effect, you could cut some back so their colourful branches start around 40cm or 20cm from the ground, and others so they branch from the ground. “Cutting higher may allow you to plant bulbs or ground cover underneath.” After such a cutback, feed the shrub with a balanced formula when fresh growth is emerging in spring.
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