Growing
Horticulturists Share How To Grow Hawthorn - The Native Shrub That Helps Support Wildlife
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Hawthorn Planting Guidelines Growing As Hedging Hawthorn Plant Care References Hawthorns are beautiful, deciduous native shrubs that can make a great addition to many UK gardens. They are particularly useful for those who wish to attract plenty of wildlife to their gardens and are a great choice if you want to boost biodiversity where you live. “My favourite plant would have to be Hawthorn as the harbinger of spring, with its roots in ancient Britain and mythology,” shares RHS Horticultural Hero Sarah Eberle. Overview Botanical Name Crataegus monogyna Common Name(s) Hawthorn Plant Type Shrub / Tree Native Area Europe including the UK Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Creamy white flowers followed by dark red berries When To Plant November to March When To Prune Summer Hawthorn is a great plant for those who want to choose native plants to support our native wildlife. The young leaves are also edible to use too and the haws can be used in hedgerow preserves, making hawthorn a good choice for a food-producing garden too.1 Hawthorns are also useful in our garden designs. C. monogyna Darren Lerigo from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society loves growing Hawthorn as a topiary plant, as its fast-growing nature and beautiful flowering habits mean that it is a great native choice. They make excellent habitats for birds with their dense and thorny habit, but this also makes them useful for a secure boundary, a screen or a windbreak hedge. While very popular for use in hedgerows, they can also make great stand-alone specimen trees and, since they won’t grow too tall, they can be a good choice for smaller gardens. Common Varieties Arguably, the best type of hawthorn to grow in the UK is Crataegus monogyna, our native hawthorn and the focus of this guide. There are, however, also many other species within the same genus that can also be interesting choices for a UK garden. C. laevigata, C. tanacetifolia, C. persimilis, C. schraderiana and C. viridis are all good choices. C. laevigata Even once you have decided which hawthorn species to grow, you will need to consider whether a named cultivar will be right for you, as there are a number to choose from. C. tanacetifolia There are cultivars that grow into large trees, small trees or even dwarf types that grow into small trees or shrubs. Selecting the right cultivar and species for your particular garden can help suit your intended use for the plant. How To Grow Hawthorn Hawthorn is a plant that is relatively unfussy about its location and can find an appropriate place in many different gardens. Preferred Site Hawthorn can be grown in full sun or partial shade and in an exposed or sheltered location. They are relatively easy to find a place for in many gardens, whether you are creating a hedge or hedgerow, or finding a place for a stand-alone tree. Soil Requirements When it comes to the soil too, hawthorn has very few very firm requirements. It will grow well in a wide range of different soil types as long as it does not become waterlogged. It should be moist but free-draining or free-draining for the best results. If you have heavy clay soil, it is suitable for growing hawthorn but it should be amended with plenty of organic matter before planting. Hawthorn is fine with a range of pH levels too, doing well in most soils whether they are acidic, alkaline or neutral. Planting Guidelines Hawthorn trees or shrubs can be purchased as bare root plants or in pots. Choosing bare root specimens is typically the best policy when planting hawthorn in your garden or in hedging on your property. It is not only slightly more affordable but also typically leads to plants establishing more successfully and quickly. Hawthorns are best planted out during the dormant period between November and March, whether you choose bare-root plants or not. While plants in pots are available throughout the year, these may not establish as well when planted out in summer. When planting hawthorn, as when planting other trees or shrubs, first make sure that you have prepared the area, adding organic matter and clearing any persistent weeds . Next, dig your planting hole. Be sure to make this the same depth as the existing root ball and at least twice as wide. In some cases, it may be beneficial to add mycorrhizal fungi to the planting hole when planting hawthorn, as it can be when planting other trees and shrubs.2 Place the hawthorn plant into the hole, spreading out the roots within it, then fill the soil back in around the roots and firm it into place. Water in your new hawthorn, then mulch around the base of the plant with organic mulch, but take care not to mound it around the base of the trunk or stems. Growing As Hedging When grown as hedging, hawthorn is typically planted at quite a wide spacing, around 80-100cm between plants. It is often used in mixed hedgerows, with other native species interspersed. This is a great idea because it boosts biodiversity and attracts an even wider range of native wildlife than simply using hawthorn on its own. Hawthorn Plant Care Hawthorn can definitely be a great low-maintenance plant for a UK garden, generally requiring little care. However, this will only be true if you choose a suitable spot to grow this plant in the first place and provide it with the right care during the establishment phase. Sunlight Hawthorn, as mentioned above, is not too fussy about how much sunlight it receives. C. laevigata ‘Crimson Cloud’ It can do well in full sun or in dappled or partial shade. The only spots to avoid are those that are too deeply shaded, as hawthorn will not flower or fruit as well where there is deeper shade. Watering Hawthorn should be watered well upon planting and it is important to keep watering regularly during dry spells as the plant establishes itself in your garden. Once it is well rooted and has established well, in most areas natural rainfall will be sufficient for your hawthorn and you will not have to water anymore, except for during the most serious of droughts. The only exception to this is where you are growing hawthorn in a container, in which case you will need to water regularly to ensure that you keep your hawthorn happy and healthy. Feeding Hawthorns growing in the ground will require moderately fertile and healthy soil, but will not typically need additional feeding where the soil is adequate. However, if the growth seems poor during establishment, you can add a general-purpose organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone around the plants in early spring to boost their growth. This should not continue once the hawthorn is well established. Common Problems Hawthorn does not tend to be particularly prone to problems, but it can get a number of fungal infections or fall prey to certain pests like deer and rabbits, caterpillars and aphids on occasion. Encourage natural biodiversity in your garden and this will help to keep pest populations under control through natural predation. “One of the notable problems hawthorns can suffer from is fireblight, which is a bacterial disease (Erwinia amylovora) that mainly affects members of the Rosaceae family,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “Plants that can be affected include apples and pears which is why it is often avoided as a hedgerow species in orchards.” References 1. Hawthorn. (2021, May 13). Wild Food UK. Retrieved March 31, 2023, from https://www.wildfooduk.com/edible-wild-plants/hawthorn/ 2. Mycorrhizal fungi. (n.d.-b). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 31, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/mycorrhizal-fungi
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Planting And Growing Holly: Featuring Sue Hunter From The Holly Society Of America
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Holly Ongoing Holly Care References Holly trees and shrubs can be extremely beneficial additions to many gardens. There are a number of different plants that have the common name holly, but in UK gardens, when we talk about holly, we are most commonly talking about our native plant – Ilex aquifolium. It is also this holly that we refer to specifically in this guide. “Hollies are beautiful and aesthetically pleasing year-round, whether they’re deciduous or evergreen,” says Sue Hunter, President of the Holly Society of America, when asked why she values Ilex so much. “Holly fruit and flowers have exceptional wildlife value, are disease and pest resistant, and require little maintenance once established.” Overview Botanical Name Ilex aquifolium Common Name(s) Holly Plant Type Shrub / Tree Native Area Europe including the UK Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Evergreen (can also be deciduous) Flowers Small and white followed by red berries on female plants only When To Plant November to February Ilex aquifolium, also known as common holly, is one of more than 400 different holly species from around the world.1 Since it is a native species, it can be a particularly beneficial addition for the wildlife in British gardens. Our native holly is evergreen and is strongly associated with Christmas and the festive season.2 However, this is a plant that, whether it is a female with berries or not, can look good and serve a purpose in our gardens all year round. Common Varieties As mentioned above, Ilex aquifolium is a great choice for British gardeners, though it is one of many hollies from around the world. “My favourite species of Holly is our American native evergreen Holly, Ilex opaca,” explains Susan. “There is huge diversity within the species relative to leaf and berry colour, shape and growth habit. “As a propagator of native species, it is important to educate all about species that are indigenous to their specific geographical area, no matter which continent they live on. “I also like Ilex pedunculosa for its soft, evergreen leaves, eclectic growth habit and berry set.” Several others might also make good choices for our climate and conditions, including Japanese holly, also known as I. crenata. However, for an eco-friendly, wildlife-friendly and sustainable garden, I, like Susan, would always recommend selecting native choices where possible. Fortunately, there are plenty of cultivars of native holly to choose from here in the UK. Here are some holly varieties that have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit; horticultural expert Dan Ori has provided information on whether they are male, female, or self-fertile: I. aquifolium ‘Amber’ (female) I. aquifolium ‘Argentea Marginata’ (female) I. aquifolium ‘Ferox Argentea’ (male) I. aquifolium ‘Golden Queen’ (male) I. aquifolium ‘Heterophylla’ (male or female) I. aquifolium ‘J. C. Van Tol’ (male & female flowers; this variety is self-fertile but berries better with a male variety nearby) I. aquifolium ‘Madame Briot’ (Female) I. aquifolium ‘Pyramidalis’ (male & female flowers; this variety is self-fertile but berries better with a male variety nearby) I. aquifolium ‘Silver Queen’ (male) “As you can see, with holly varieties, you cannot rely on the name as an indication of whether a plant is male or female,” says Dan. I. aquifolium ‘Silver Queen’ There are also hybrid hollies to choose from. While many hollies have typical dark green leaves and bright red berries on the female plants, some have silver-margined leaves or other distinguishing characteristics that can enhance their ornamental appeal. How To Grow Holly Holly is a low-maintenance and straightforward plant to grow. As long as you place it in the right position and make sure that it has the growing requirements that it needs, then you should find that, once established, it requires little to no care. Preferred Site Holly will thrive in a range of locations. It can cope well with different soil types, in an exposed or sheltered location and in full sun or part shade. Those with variegated leaves will tend to do better in full sun so that the leaves develop better colour, but most will still be happy in some shade. I. aquifolium ‘Alaska’ Any aspect can work well with the exception of a north-facing one, which may be too shaded for the best results when growing holly in your garden. Holly can also work well as stand-alone shrubs or trees, in a mixed shrubbery, in an informal native hedgerow or in a shelter belt. “Hollies are easy to grow, and look nice as a single specimen or planted in mass,” says Susan. So, there are many ways that you might consider using it in your garden. Propagation Methods Holly is typically propagated by means of either semi-ripe or hardwood cuttings. Semi-ripe cuttings are taken in the late summer or early autumn and hardwood cuttings are best started indoors, with bottom heat, in January. The first of these two options is generally the easier option if you would like to propagate your own plants. Of course, you can also do what many gardeners will do and purchase a holly cultivar from a garden centre or plant nursery in a pot. Most frequently, holly is planted between autumn and spring, and sometimes, when the ground is not too hard or waterlogged, over the winter months. Planting Guidelines It is best to plant out holly as quickly as possible after it arrives or you bring it home. Prepare your new growing area by simply digging a generous hole to the same depth as the existing roots of the holly you have purchased which is a couple of times larger than the width. Place the holly in the hole, making sure it is upright and that you are happy with the orientation, then fill the soil back in around the roots and firm it gently into place. “Planting hollies too deeply is a common issue I see with gardeners,” says Susan. “Planting holly at the level where the first root is emerging from the trunk is correct.” Water your new holly in well, then mulch around the new shrub with homemade compost, leaf mould or other organic material. “Do not pile too much mulch up around the trunk and be careful not to overwater,” warns Susan. Ongoing Holly Care As holly is so easy to care for and grow successfully, there really are very few guidelines to contend with. Make sure it gets enough light, water and nutrients and you should rarely find that you have any issues at all. Soil Requirements As mentioned above, holly is unfussy when it comes to soil type. It can thrive in a range of different soils, from chalk or sand to clay, as long as it is moist yet free-draining. I. aquifolium ‘Argentea Marginata’ Holly is unfussy about pH and can thrive in acidic, neutral or alkaline soils, though it does have a favourite, as Susan shares: “Hollies prefer acidic soil and organic material such as decomposing leaf litter worked into the soil.” Light As we have already intimated, holly can cope with full sun or part shade, but it is important to make sure that you do not try to position it in full shade, where it will not do as well. Variegated hollies will do best in full sun where the colours will be more vibrant, though there are hollies with dark green leaves that can also cope with partial or dappled shade. Watering Water holly well upon planting and during any dry spells until it becomes well established. After this, natural rainfall should usually be sufficient in keeping holly hydrated, unless you are growing your shrub in a container. Remember, container-grown plants will always need more frequent watering than those growing in the ground. Feeding When growing in moderately fertile soil, holly should not need additional fertilisation. It is simply good practice to mulch around the plant upon planting and to replenish the organic mulch around your holly each spring. This should provide slow-release fertility and make sure that you have a healthy soil in your garden. Common Problems Holly does not usually face many problems on the whole, but it can suffer from holly leaf blight, which is a fungal infection that discolours the stems and foliage. If you spot this problem, cut out the affected material right away and dispose of it carefully to prevent its further spread. “Holly leaf miner (Phytomyza ilicis) is a common issue,” says Dan. “The leaf will present blotches or channels that can look like they are drawn on, but the damage is actually inside the leaf and is caused by the larvae of a small fly. “Leaf miner damage does not normally cause significant health issues for the plant, so it is best to treat it as a messy guest in your garden.” References 1. Ilex aquifolium: An Overview. (n.d.). Science Direct; Elsevier BV. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-1-4557-0717-1.00039-9 2. Five things you never knew about holly. (n.d.). National Trust. Retrieved March 30, 2023, from https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/discover/nature/trees-plants/five-things-you-never-knew-about-holly
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Euphorbia: How To Grow Plants In This Diverse Genus With Advice From Darren Evans
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Euphorbia Euphorbia Planting Euphorbia Plant Care Euphorbia is a genus of plants that can offer a lot to gardeners. Hugely diverse, this genus provides plants of a range of shapes and sizes for a wide range of locations, indoors and outside in a garden. Across our Euphorbia guides, we’ve collaborated with Darren Evans, Plant Manager at Pugh’s Cacti. “I love Euphorbias as they can be weird and wonderful,” he says. “Some are classed as succulents but have spines that resemble a cactus, so it’s the best of both worlds.” Overview Botanical Name Euphorbia Common Name(s) Spurge Plant Type Annual / Perennial / Shrub / Succulent Native Area Broad range Hardiness Rating Varies considerably Foliage Diverse range Flowers Small flowers often in colourful bracts When To Plant Varies Euphorbias can be useful and attractive plants. One of the most important things to understand about Euphorbias, or ‘spurges’ as they are sometimes known, is that they differ greatly in their characteristics and growing requirements, so it is important to choose carefully. There are Euphorbias that are annuals, perennials, shrubs, succulents and even some that love moist conditions. Euphorbia poissonii ‘Variegata’ “With succulent euphorbias, you give them attention at certain times of the year and after that, you can just leave them to do their thing and flourish,” shares Darren. “They can be easy to grow with a simple compost mix, plenty of light and regular watering when required. “In return, they will reward you with beautiful flowers, elegant spines and wonderful shapes.” There is a euphorbia for full sun and for shade, for use as a houseplant and as much hardier plants for year-round outdoor cultivation. How To Grow Euphorbia Selecting the right Euphorbia for the conditions where you want it to grow is the first and most important step in growing them successfully where you live. Hardiness When it comes to hardiness, plants within this genus range from tender to fully hardy, even in the UK during the coldest winters. It can be helpful then to separate Euphorbias into garden Euphorbias (those hardy enough to grow outside) and indoor or greenhouse Euphorbias, which are not hardy enough to remain outside through the year and must be cultivated as houseplants or undercover. Tender houseplant Euphorbias can be small balls or large branched shrubs. E. characias These typically grow well in sun-baked conservatories throughout the year, though they can often be placed outside during the peak of summer. Popular poinsettias are a member of this group and are commonly grown around Christmas. Other examples are E. milii, E. milii var. splendens, E. horrida, and E. obesa. Typically succulent in form and resembling cacti, these bear little resemblance to Euphorbias commonly grown outside in a garden. Preferred Aspect Garden euphorbias are all hardy enough to be grown outdoors in UK gardens. However, even these plants differ greatly from one another. These Euphorbias can be subdivided again into those that like to be grown in full sun and those that love shade. E. characias subsp. wulfenii Sun-loving spurges are mostly either herbaceous perennials that die back in winter and send up new growth each spring or have a permanent shrubby framework of branches. There are also some annual Euphorbias for full sun that complete their lifecycles in a single year. Some examples of sun-loving spurges include E. characias, E. griffithii, E. mellifera, E. palustris and E. rigida. “My favourite Euphorbia is E. mellifera, also known as honey spurge,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It will grow to around 2m tall and wide when thriving and can be grown in full sun or partial shade and in a range of soil types as long as free draining. “It is loved by pollinators and has a pleasant fragrance. It can be pruned back in spring if needed. It is frost-hardy in all but the coldest parts of the UK.” Most of these really do best with excellent drainage and won’t tolerate waterlogging at all, but E. griffithii and E. palustris are content in damp soil. E. lathyris Annuals include E. lathyris, E. marginata, and E. oblongata. E griffithii can also cope well with dappled shade and E. amygdaloides and E. amygdaloides var. robbiae are also Euphorbias that are tolerant of dappled shade. These Euphorbias will not like soil that dries out too excessively and in some cases in full sun, the flowers and leaves of these plants can scorch. Sun-loving Euphorbias will tend to do best with a south-facing aspect, while those that thrive in partial or dappled shade do well with an east or west-facing aspect. Preferred Soil & Drainage Garden Euphorbias differ not only in their sunlight requirements but also in their preferred soil type and soil conditions. Some Euphorbias, such as E. cornigera and E. schillingii, will grow well in most soil types as long as they do not become waterlogged. Euphorbia schillingii Euphorbia such as E. characias subsp. wulfenii and E. rigida do best in sandy soils that are free-draining. Among those that grow well in part shade, E. amygdaloides var. robbiae is a good choice for dry shade, while E. palustris is an example of one Euphorbia that can work in damp soils. It is, of course, important to make sure that you understand the needs of the particular Euphorbia that you are trying to grow before selecting and preparing a planting site. Euphorbia Planting Euphorbias are commonly sold as potted plants, either as smaller plants in spring or larger plants that are often in flower in summer or early autumn. Mostly, these plants come in 1 or 2-litre pots, though sometimes plants in 9cm wide pots are available. Garden Euphorbias are best planted out in a garden in the spring, once the weather begins to warm. This is the best time for planting because it allows the plants to establish quickly while the soil is relatively moist and put on plenty of growth during warmer weather. E. neriifolia To plant a Euphorbia in the soil, simply dig a hole larger than the existing roots of the plant, place the plant in this hole, firm the soil back around it and water it in well. In many cases, the addition of organic mulch around the plant can be beneficial. Some Euphorbias are suited to container growing. These can thrive in the free-draining conditions that a suitable container can provide. Mix a potting medium with three-parts loam-based compost to one-part grit to keep these plants happy. Euphorbia Plant Care Euphorbias require very different care depending on the specific types and varieties you have chosen and where they are growing. Euphorbia marginata ‘Pursh’ Some take a lot more time and effort, while others can be relatively low-maintenance and easy plants to grow. Watering Garden Euphorbias typically need to be watered well during establishment for their first couple of growing seasons, after which natural rainfall will typically be sufficient, as the plants can often have reasonable drought tolerance. However, if you are growing euphorbias in containers, indoors or outside, watering will be a job that you will have to continue to undertake throughout the year from spring to autumn. The goal is typically to make sure that the growing medium remains moist yet not waterlogged and never dries out completely during the growing season. Feeding Euphorbias tolerate poor fertility rather well and they do not typically need to be fed at all. E. milii In fact, feeding can be counterproductive because plants that are in too rich a soil or growing medium can become leggy. Common Problems Euphorbias are often blissfully trouble-free plants. However, they can develop a number of minor issues, especially if environmental conditions or care were not quite right. Common problems include root rot (when grown in wet soils), powdery mildews, rust diseases and aphids.
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Pruning Salvia: How To Cut Back Annual, Perennial, Tender And Shrubby Types
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Prune Salvias? When To Prune Salvia Pruning Annual Types Pruning Herbaceous Perennial Types Pruning Tender Salvias Pruning Shrubby Varieties Salvias, or ornamental sages as they are sometimes known, are highly prized plants that can find a place in many British gardens. They are generally fairly easy to care for and do not require a massive amount of upkeep. However, it is important to make sure that you know when to prune or cut back your salvias because different salvias are treated in different ways. Salvias come in four main types: annuals, herbaceous perennials, tender perennials and shrubby types. The type you are growing will determine if and when they need to be pruned – read on to find out more. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Prune Spring Do You Need To Prune Salvias? No pruning jobs on salvias are truly essential and many salvias will continue to grow and flower just fine without any pruning or cutting back at all. However, you can help to keep your plants looking good and performing well by undertaking a few simple jobs throughout the year. “Whether and how you prune your salivas will depend on the size of your garden as well as the type of Salvia,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If you have a small garden, the time taken to make your Salvia look its best will be well spent but if you have acres instead of a few square metres then necessity will probably dictate a less exacting approach.” As well as pruning shrubby types, there is also deadheading and cutting back that you might do, depending on which salvia or salvias you are growing. I will explore the best strategies when it comes to these jobs for different types of salvia in a little more depth below. When To Prune Salvia The best time to prune or cut back most salvias is in the spring. While some gardeners will prefer to cut back and prune in the autumn, there are a number of reasons why, for different types of salvia and for the wildlife that shares your space, this is not the best idea. “Don’t cut them back in autumn!” warns Vicki Weston, Owner of Westons Salvias. “Although the plants will look a bit bare in the deepest parts of winter, wait until you can see green shoots at the very base of the plant, then you can tidy back and deadhead to a neat shape. “You’ll have to be patient with some but they will all shoot.” Spring is a good time to prune or cut back salvias because you should keep dead stems in place for wildlife during the autumn. You should prune to space for new growth, which will let light into the lower portions of the plant when it is needed. Pruning Annual Types Annual salvias do not really need to be pruned because this type, which includes S. splendens, S. farinacea, and S. horminum, is used for summer bedding and is then simply discarded at the end of the growing season. However, like other salvias, these types can be given a trim before they are planted out into a garden. This trim just before planting out will encourage the plants to bush out and take on a lusher and more filled-out form. Pruning Herbaceous Perennial Types Herbaceous perennial salvias that are hardy enough to remain outdoors year-round will, unlike annual types, come back each year. S. nemorosa and S. x sylvestris are examples of salvias of this type. Like annuals, these can be trimmed back before planting, as can the other salvias on this list too. Deadheading perennial types can help to prolong the flowering period. However, the main pruning job is cutting back the old stems. Some gardeners choose to do this in autumn, but it is best to wait until the spring because the perennial stems and old foliage that remain over the winter months are great for the wildlife in your garden. “After pruning herbaceous types, keep the crown mulched to keep the plant warm during cold winters,” says Lyndi Garnett from the Victorian Salvia Study Group. Pruning Tender Salvias Tender salvias like S. greggii are also perennial and can come back year after year, but, in all but the mildest and most sheltered of gardens, they will need some winter protection. “Deadhead all perennial types regularly to keep the flower coming,” says Vicky. These types are also best pruned in the spring, not only for the sake of the wildlife but also to add a protective cover of the old stems and any old foliage that does not naturally die back entirely in place. Pruning Shrubby Varieties Last but not least are the shrubby salvia – technically sub-shrubs. Unlike the other types of salvia discussed above, these do have a permanent woody framework of stems or branches. Some are evergreen while others are not quite so hardy and will require winter protection. Spring is the best time to undertake the main annual maintenance prune of these small shrubby plants. Pruning shrubby salvias is akin to pruning another small sub-shrub like lavender. Pruning can help prevent the plants from becoming woodier, leggier and less floriferous over time. In the spring, take a look over the plant and remove any dead, damaged or diseased stems or branches. Next, it is typically a good idea to cut back the whole plant by around a third, cutting back to growth points where new shoots emerge. “For small shrubby plants, cut down to a good green bud but not to ground, as your plants might go into shock,” says Lyndi. “For taller, woodier salvias, you can cut back to 2-3 nodes to encourage new growth, mulching well afterwards to keep the root and crown warm in cold areas.” If you are the type of person who prefers a very neat and tidy garden, you might also want to cut back the dead, twiggy flower stems on these salvias once flowering is done. However, as with many cutting back or pruning jobs, this is purely cosmetic and not really something that you need to do.
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Fuchsia Grown From Seed Is Very Challenging But It Can Be Done - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Sow Fuchsia In Early Spring 1) Collect Your Seeds 2) Separate The Seeds From The Berries 3) Let The Seeds Dry 4) Sow Your Fuchsia Seeds 5) Place On A Sunny Windowsill To Germinate Fuchsias are well-loved and attractive flowering plants which can be great choices for many gardens. There are some that are hardy and some that are too tender for year-round growing outdoors. Whichever fuchsia you grow, there are several ways to propagate your plants and obtain more new plants for your garden. Fuchsias are most commonly propagated by means of cuttings, which is a very easy and reliable process, but you can also grow these plants from seed. Growing fuchsia from seed is far more challenging and does not always yield such positive results. However, growing fuchsia from seed is possible and can be interesting if you like to experiment in your garden and get new varieties of these plants. “If you wish to grow a particular cultivar then cuttings are the route to take for propagation,” adds Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “If you have a species or are willing to experiment with the results of seed from cultivars (which will not come true) then harvesting seeds is an interesting option.” Fuchsia seeds are usually sown indoors in spring, around March or April. The process is relatively simple, though results can vary: Collect fuchsia seeds from the plant you wish to propagate. Separate the seeds from the sticky flesh of the fuchsia berries. Spread out the seeds to dry. Sow the seeds on the surface of seed-starting compost. Grow on the seedlings indoors. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, pots, compost When To Sow March to April Sow Fuchsia In Early Spring Fuchsia seeds can be sown as soon as they are collected in the autumn, but in the UK, it is generally recommended to store the seeds over winter and sow them in the spring indoors, usually in March or April. 1) Collect Your Seeds It is sometimes possible to purchase fuchsia seeds, but if you already have some fuchsias in your garden, you might also consider collecting your own seed to sow. “Choose your variety in the knowledge that some will happily grow four feet or more in a season and keep this in mind when choosing the position for your fuchsia,” warns Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society. If you wish, you might carry out cross-pollination between specific fuchsias in the early summer to experiment with making your own fuchsia varieties. To collect the seeds, you will need to tie muslin bags over the berries that form from the flowers. For one thing, this will allow the fruits to mature fully without being eaten by birds and for another, it will prevent the loss of the seeds if the berries drop off. 2) Separate The Seeds From The Berries Once you have the ripe berries, which are soft and fully mature, take each one and, using a sharp knife, carefully scrape out the seeds from within. This is a fiddly process and a messy one as the fruit pulp is very sticky. 3) Let The Seeds Dry Once you have separated the seeds from the flesh of the fruits, spread these out on a piece of kitchen paper to dry. They will typically dry out in a warm room in around a week or so. Once they are dry, the seeds can be placed in airtight containers and placed in a dry, dark spot until spring. 4) Sow Your Fuchsia Seeds In March or April, take the seeds you collected (or seeds that you have purchased) and sow them on the surface of a good quality seed-starting potting mix, ideally topped with sharp sand. Sow seeds on the surface of this medium and firm them gently into place, but do not cover them, as light is required for germination. “Fuchsias grown both in pots and hardy varieties in the ground are more than happy with these conditions,” says Gail. Soak the pots and allow them to drain, making sure that excess water can drain away freely, then place your pots into a propagator in which temperatures of at least 18°C can be maintained. 5) Place On A Sunny Windowsill To Germinate Place your propagator on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse, maintaining bottom heat and ensuring that adequate ventilation is provided and maintained. Keep the potting medium moist but take care to avoid waterlogged conditions. Water from the base to avoid disturbing the seeds. Seedlings may take a variable length of time to germinate. It can be as little as a few weeks or as much as 4 months or so. Seedlings can be pricked out and potted on when the first few leaves appear. Young fuchsias often flower in their first year, but tend to do better from their second year. In some cases, overwintering in a frost-free location before planting out the following spring can be beneficial.
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Gail Barber Shares 3 Common Problems When Growing Fuchsia (And How To Fix Them)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Environmental Problems 2) Pests 3) Diseases References Fuchsias can be extremely attractive plants. They fall into one of two categories: hardy fuchsias, which can be grown outside year-round in British gardens, and tender fuchsias, which are typically overwintered indoors or under cover. Whichever fuchsia you are growing, these plants tend to be fairly easy to grow, but you may encounter a range of growing problems and issues, including: Environmental problems such as sunlight and water (or a lack thereof). Issues with pests such as aphids, red spider mites and whitefly. Diseases such as fuchsia rust and grey mould. Fortunately, many of these problems are relatively easy to overcome. Below, we will take a brief look at some common issues and how to tackle them if you encounter them when growing fuchsias where you live. 1) Environmental Problems “Like many plants, the easiest way to kill a fuchsia is to give it too much or not enough water,” explains Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society and Gardening Guild. “Fuchsias are not fussy plants. However, if they are growing in pots, especially small pots, they must not be allowed to sit all day in scorching sunshine. “Move the plants into the shade in hot weather, keeping the compost damp but not soaking.” One other important thing to remember when growing fuchsia is the hardiness of the particular variety that you are growing. Tender fuchsia will not typically survive low winter temperatures in most British gardens. Hardy fuchsias may sometimes die back over winter but will survive below ground and should grow back in the spring if they do so. “The more you handle your plants, the easier it will become to know the weight of the pots, whether they are too dry, whether the leaves look healthy or if there’s a new problem you haven’t noticed before,” says Gail. 2) Pests “Like any plants, they do have their pests and diseases,” warns Gail. “Plants, especially those grown in greenhouses, can suffer from aphids, red spider mites and whitefly. “Keeping a check on your plants is the best way to deal with these.” We explore these pests in more detail below. Aphids & Whitefly Aphids, greenhouse whitefly and other sap-sucking insects can sometimes be minor pests when growing fuchsias. The latter is typically only an issue when growing fuchsias undercover. Outdoors in your garden, sap-sucking insects are best handled by attracting their predators such as ladybirds and lacewings in order to keep their numbers down in an organic garden. In a greenhouse, you might introduce parasitic wasps or other biological controls. Keeping the undercover growing area clean over winter and maintaining good ventilation within the space can also help prevent pest populations and the spread of diseases like sooty moulds due to these pests. Your goal should not be to eliminate them altogether but to keep their numbers down so that they are not a serious issue for your fuchsias and other plants. Vine Weevil Grubs “Plants grown outside in a healthy balanced garden face fewer threats from pests,” says Gail. “However, vine weevil is the nemesis of many gardeners, with their grubs eating the roots of not only fuchsias but hostas, primulas and heucheras to name a few.” Vine weevil grubs can eat the roots of fuchsia plants, especially those growing in containers. “Plants look completely normal, until one day they fall over after the grubs having eaten through their roots,” Gail explains. “These can be controlled by the use of nematodes.” Check for these regularly where they have been a problem, ensuring good hygiene in undercover growing areas and container gardens. Aim to encourage natural predation of these pests too by attracting things like birds, shrews, hedgehogs, frogs, toads and ground beetles to your garden. Capsid Bugs Capsid bugs may also be found causing problems for fuchsias. As these bugs feed between May and early September, signs of damage will arise on the plants. Leaves can become misshapen with brown spots and flower buds on fuchsias may fail to develop and drop off. However, a mild infestation need not always be a massive problem. Again, the best strategy to prevent their numbers getting out of control is to encourage natural predators like birds, hedgehogs and ground beetles to take up residence nearby. Mealybugs If you are growing fuchsias in a greenhouse then you may have a problem with mealybugs, which are common on houseplants and greenhouse container plants too. These bugs weaken plants and the honeydew they excrete allows the growth of sooty moulds. Large populations of these pests can stunt the growth of your fuchsias and reduce vigour. Sometimes, leaves may drop early. Check plants before bringing them into your greenhouse or garden, keeping new plants quarantined to make sure mealybugs or other pests are not introduced. In some cases, biological controls can be considered to tackle a serious greenhouse infestation, though small populations can usually be tolerated. “I have used biological controls for mealybugs in the past,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I used an Australian ladybird larvae that is a voracious predator of mealy bugs. The temperatures need to be warm when introduced as they will become dormant in cooler weather.” Fuchsia Flea Beetle These metallic blue beetles make holes and small brown patches in the leaves of fuchsia plants and are active from April to September. They are around 5mm long, which is larger than most other flea beetles found in Britain. Small amounts of leaf loss will not usually be a major problem, so small populations of these flea beetles can typically be tolerated as part of the garden ecosystem. These beetles are a food source for beneficial wildlife like birds, frogs and ground beetles, so making sure you have plenty of these around should keep this minor pest in check. Red Spider Mite Red spider mites are sap-sucking mites that can cause mottled leaves and leaf drop on fuchsia plants. A heavy infestation can even kill the plants. Undercover, red spider mites can be difficult to control and they breed rapidly in warm conditions. Raising the humidity in a greenhouse, cleaning regularly, avoiding overcrowding and clearing out badly infected plants can help to reduce this problem. In extreme cases, biological controls like predatory mites and predatory midges might be introduced. Fuchsia Gall Mite A relatively new pest for fuchsia growers to worry about is the fuchsia gall mite, which was first found in mainland Britain back in 2007 and which has now spread throughout southern England and northwards into Wales.1 It can cause swollen and distorted growth at the shoot tips on fuchsias, often with red or yellowish-green discolouration. The flowers can also be deformed or may fail to develop altogether. The mites themselves are too small to be seen without a microscope. This mite does not kill fuchsias but it can affect their growth and appearance. If you encounter this problem, choose less susceptible varieties of fuchsia. In some cases, a predatory mite can also be introduced as a biological control. 3) Diseases Fuchsia Rust One fungal disease of fuchsias is fuchsia rust. This causes orange pustules to develop on the undersides of the leaves of fuchsia plants. It may also cause leaves to drop off and can reduce the vigour and general health of fuchsia plants. Pick off any affected foliage from your fuchsias promptly if you notice this problem and give your fuchsias a feed to boost their vigour and resilience. Grey Mould Another common fungal problem that can affect fuchsias is grey mould, which causes soft decay of plant tissues, causing stems and leaves to turn brown and develop fuzzy, greyish-brown mould. It is worst where fuchsias are growing undercover and where conditions are overcrowded and humid. Ensure good ventilation and spacing for good airflow between plants. Practice good hygiene with your plants and remove any affected material immediately to carefully reduce the spread of this problem. References 1. Fuchsia gall mite / RHS Gardening. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 29, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/fuchsia-gall-mite
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If You Must Prune Viburnum It's Possible - But Remember They Flower On 2 Year Old Wood
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Viburnum 1) Pruning For Maintenance 2) Annual Pruning 3) Pruning For Renovation Do you like the sound of a vigorous, hardy, fragrant, low-maintenance bush offering an array of choices in size, blooming season, foliage type and berry colour? If you do, a viburnum is right for you. There are so many types of viburnums that vary from small shrubs that are a mere few centimetres high to large specimens that reach nearly 4m in height – with spreads to match. Although virtually all viburnums need next to no pruning, most varieties can tolerate hard pruning. There are 3 main reasons why you might prune viburnum, which are: For maintenance. For annual shaping. For renovation. Underneath, I have outlined these 3 styles of pruning in more detail and identified the species or hybrid groups that should be pruned in a particular style. Learn more about pruning viburnum below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs, pruning shears, anvil loppers or pruning saw When To Prune Varies When To Prune Viburnum “Pruning of viburnums is something that one should avoid by all means,” shares Gary Ladman from Classic Viburnums. “There are enough viburnums available that you should be able to find one that fits the site rather than pruning to make it fit. “Another consideration is that viburnums flower on two-year-old wood. “With continuous pruning, the majority of your branches will consist of one-year wood, resulting in a lack of or less flowering.” However, if you have to prune, it is possible. The main rule when it comes to pruning viburnum is that most regular styles of pruning should be done immediately after the flowering season is over. This is because viburnum forms buds on the previous season’s growth and not on the current season’s growth, so if you delay pruning to a favourable season, it would be too late, as the buds will have already formed. Be aware that the drawback to pruning immediately after flowering is that you will lose some quantity of colourful berries, for which many viburnum varieties are deservedly prized. 1) Pruning For Maintenance Pruning V. plicatum, V. × juddii and their respective cultivars should be limited to only this type of pruning. As a general rule, V. carlesii, V. tinus, V. opulus, V. davidii and their cultivars should also be pruned in this style, but they may be hard pruned as and when necessary. All other variety groups may, of course, be pruned in this fashion in addition to the style of pruning described for them. Dead, damaged, or diseased branches should be pruned. This is the only type of pruning that may be done at any time of the year. Soon after the flowering season, trim, rather than prune, what few overly long, untidy or protruding stems there may be. Cut them just above a node. 2) Annual Pruning An annual prune is beneficial for V. farreri, V. × bodnantense, V. tinus, V. rhytidophyllum and their respective cultivars. These are especially strong-growing and vigorous shrubs and, therefore, are more likely to get out of shape, outgrow their space or become overgrown compared with other viburnum types. Take either or both of the following steps as appropriate soon after the flowering season is over. Trim branches to restrict the shrub from growing out of its allocated space and also to maintain a pleasing shape. Prune up to 1/3 of the branches to 30-50% of their lengths using pruning shears, making the cuts just above a node. When trimming, be mindful that withered blooms will form berries, so you may wish to pick and choose the branches accordingly. The second step is to prune up to 1/3 of the oldest, most unproductive stems by cutting them at the base. Use a pruning saw or anvil loppers as appropriate. 3) Pruning For Renovation Many viburnum species and their respective cultivars may be hard pruned to renovate them if required. These are V. farreri, V. opulus, V. davidii, V. carlesii, V. tinus, V. × bodnantense and their respective cultivars. If any of these varieties of viburnums are hopelessly overgrown, unkempt or have an abundance of lanky, straggly stems, it may be hard pruned to regenerate it. V. opulus, V. davidii and their respective cultivars respond especially well to this style of pruning. Renovation pruning is a 2-year process. Unlike other types of pruning, renovation pruning should be done in spring. The deciduous varieties, such as V. opulus and V. farreri, should be pruned in February to March, whilst the evergreen ones, such as V. davidii and V. tinus are best pruned in March or April. Using a pruning saw or anvil loppers, simply cut back about half the stems to about 20cm from the ground. Do not prune stems from one side or another as the shrub will look unsightly after pruning. Instead, pick and choose stems so as to minimise the negative aesthetic impact. Also, it is desirable to prune a greater number of stems from the interior or centre of the shrub in the first year to reset it for an ultimately pleasing and aesthetic shape. Water well after pruning and be sure that the plant’s watering needs throughout the year are met. Lightly feed the shrub with a balanced or nitrogen-oriented fertiliser after pruning. The following year, cut back the other half of the branches to about 20cm from the ground. Follow the same watering and feeding guidelines as you did in the first year.
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All Weigelas Can Be Pruned In The Same Way - It's Best Done Straight After Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Weigela 1) Remove Damaged Branches 2) Prune Flowered Stalks 3) Get Rid Of Unproductive Stems 4) Remove Weak Shoots 5) Water & Feed Well Available in an array of sizes that all have a tidy, compact growth habit, weigelas are floriferous plants that produce delightful funnel-shaped blooms across spring and summer. Although they are easy to care for, to get the best out of these shrubs they should get an annual prune. Luckily, all weigelas can be pruned in the same way, and even though the process is a multi-step one, it is also pretty straightforward. You can prune weigela bushes by following these steps: Prune back any dead and damaged weigela branches with a pruning saw or bypass secateurs. Remove any flowered stalks, focusing on those which are leggy and out of place. Prune back unproductive stems from your weigela. Remove weak shoots from the previous year’s growth. Water and feed your weigela to help in its recovery. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, pruning saw, loppers, secateurs When To Prune Summer When To Prune Weigela Weigelas should be pruned immediately after blooming in summer. These deciduous shrubs flower mostly on the previous year’s growth, and this growth starts forming in summer very soon after the blooming season. Therefore, delaying pruning would mean that you may remove the shoots and stems that would have borne flowers. Timely pruning will also allow these shrubs to put out fresh growth and buds that will bear flowers the following season and will be strong enough to withstand the winter frosts. 1) Remove Damaged Branches Branches and stems that are dead or damaged, either from spring frost, disease or breakage, should be pruned first. Damaged branches may be cut at their attachments or at an intermediate position so that the healthy part is left behind. Make the cut just above a node or bud. Similarly, prune or trim branches that may be crossing or rubbing against one another. Depending on the thickness of the branch, you will need a small pruning saw or bypass secateurs. 2) Prune Flowered Stalks Flowered stalks may be pruned even on young shrubs. Use small secateurs or scissors to prune such a stalk at its attachment. On mature shrubs, you may prune the stalk or its mother stem to remove its flowered growth. This may be done at its attachment or just above a node or bud on the green part of the mother stem. By no means should all such stems be trimmed; choose those that are gangly, leggy and that disturb the balance to help restore the shape of the shrub. 3) Get Rid Of Unproductive Stems On a mature shrub, prune old wood that is unproductive by cutting the stems at the base. Remove up to 25% of the total number of stems. A healthy, vigorous bush may not have very many unproductive stems but it may be congested. If so, aim to thin it by removing up to 20% of the stems. A few of these may be pruned to their respective bases while the rest should be trimmed 33-50% of their respective lengths. Cut these to just above a node or bud and try to make the cut at an angle. Secateurs or loppers of the appropriate kind may be used for this task. 4) Remove Weak Shoots You should also look over the previous year’s shoots. A few may be feeble, gangly and less than vigorous, so you should prune such shoots at their attachments. I find a pair of bypass secateurs to be perfect for this task. 5) Water & Feed Well After pruning, water the shrub well. Feed it with a granular fertiliser by working it into the soil at a healthy distance from the crown. A liquid fertiliser may be used instead. “If you experience dry weather in late summer and autumn, generous late summer mulching and watering can result in better flowering next year,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I like to add my granular fertiliser and mulch in early spring as it sets the plant up for the year ahead. I don’t concern myself with a late summer mulch as ours is not especially dry in my part of the UK.”
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Wonderful Weigela - 15 Favourite Types With Horticulturist Dan Ori
IN THIS GUIDE 1) W. ‘Mont-Blanc’ 2) W. ‘Bristol Snowflake’ 3) W. florida ‘Pink Princess’ 4) W. coraeensis ‘Alba’ 5) W. florida ‘Pink Poppet’ 6) W. ‘Vanicek’ 7) W. florida ‘Wine and Roses’ 8) W. ‘Slingco 1’ 9) W. ‘Red Prince’ 10) W. ‘White Lightning’ 11) W. florida ‘Variegata Nana’ 12) W. ‘Briant Rubidor’ 13) W. florida ‘Wings Of Fire’ 14) W. florida ‘Verweig’ 15) W. florida ‘Minor Black’ Marvellously floriferous, weigelas are a great plant for dressing up your garden in more tones of red and pink than you’d care to count. By mid-spring, many weigela varieties are bedecked in a profusion of clusters of small, trumpet or funnel-shaped flowers. Perfectly positioned at that fine border between being naturally neat and tidy and a little unkempt and free-growing, weigelas are bushes that are perfect for cottage gardens or to liven up borders. The deciduous shrubs we have listed below offer a wide choice of sizes and colours to choose from. No matter where you may be located in the UK, you can safely choose any and all of the following fifteen weigela varieties because each selection is hardy to H6 (temperatures down to -20°C). We have sequenced our choices by colour and tone and have finished off the list with some interesting foliage plays. 1) W. ‘Mont-Blanc’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘mont-blanc’ FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread For pure white funnel-shaped flowers, ‘Mont-Blanc’ is a great choice, as their white petals develop pink flushes as the plant matures. “This is one of my favourite Weigelas, as the progression of ‘Mont-Blanc’s wedding dress white blooms into a subtle watercolour painted pink flower is magnificent,” says Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “I recommend planting ‘Mont-Blanc’ alongside Salvia ‘Hot Lips’ (red-white flower) and Salix ‘Flamingo’'(green-white-pink leaves) to play off complementary colour combinations.” The leaves are of a mid to dark shade of green, which enhances the pure white colour of the blooms. A special attribute is their light, fresh scent. This variety rises to just over 1m in height with a spread to match. 2) W. ‘Bristol Snowflake’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘bristol snowflake’ FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread A special feature of ‘Bristol Snowflake’ is that its flowers are almost goblet-shaped, meaning they are somewhat differently shaped than the vast majority of other cultivars. They are white with buttery eyes and rise to just over 1m with a distinctly wider spread, with displays of foliage in a mid-green shade. This shrub produces blooms from mid-spring that can last well into summer. 3) W. florida ‘Pink Princess’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘pink princess’ FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Probably more lavender than pink, ‘Pink Princess’ produces the classic trumpet-shaped blooms that these heirloom plants are known for. The floral clusters of a delicate lavender-pink tone make a truly beautiful colour combination with the brilliant green shade of the foliage. This variety blooms from late spring until some time in the summer and is over 1m tall and nearly 1.5m wide. 4) W. coraeensis ‘Alba’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘alba’ FLOWERS: cream and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread ‘Alba’ is a unique cultivar, as it produces flowers in two colours. The trumpet-shaped blooms start off creamy white and then gradually mature to a charming rose pink. This means that midway through the flowering season the bush is a wonderful sight, displaying blooms in multiple shades of cream and pink. This is a large-sized variety, growing to 3m in height with a similar spread. 5) W. florida ‘Pink Poppet’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘pink poppet’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Perfectly named, ‘Pink Poppet’ grows to a mere 40cm high with a spread that may be a tad wider, making it a top choice for containers. It has bright green foliage and funnel-shaped shaped flowers that are of a charming baby pink tone with darker centres. After its first bloom in late spring, it often bursts into bloom again in late summer. 6) W. ‘Vanicek’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘newport red’ FLOWERS: purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread ‘Vanicek’ produces goblet or funnel-shaped flowers on the pink-purple colour cusp, which often appear red when in bloom from late spring into summer. The deep green foliage is the perfect complementary colour to that of the blooms. This variety grows to around 2m tall. 7) W. florida ‘Wine and Roses’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘alexandra’ FLOWERS: pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Producing tubular trumpet-shaped flowers, the attractions of ‘Wine and Roses’ start with its foliage. Of a smoky, bronzy-green hue, the leaves develop yellow and purple tints which deepen in autumn when the flowers are no more. While the flowers are around during this cultivar’s remarkably long blooming season from late spring to early autumn, they colour the shrub in a popping, almost electric, tone of magenta-pink. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 8) W. ‘Slingco 1’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘all summer red’ FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Bearing rich, red, funnel-shaped flowers whose hues are accented by white pistils, ‘All Summer Red’ is another variety to consider if you want a splash of bold colour in your garden. It more than lives up to its name too, as this gorgeous cultivar blooms from mid-spring clear into autumn. On the small side at about 75cm tall, its bright green leaves display distinct reddish tinges during spring. 9) W. ‘Red Prince’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘red prince’ FLOWERS: pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Perhaps the most popular variety here in the UK, ‘Red Prince’ has trumpet-shaped flowers of a riveting lipstick-red hue, with its white pistils making a fine counterpoint and setting off the intense red. This cultivar is 1-1.5m tall and wide and sports pointy ovate leaves of a fresh green shade. It blooms from the late spring and well into the summer. This shrub is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 10) W. ‘White Lightning’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘white lightning’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Leaves of a mid-green shade surrounded by thick, irregular, creamy-yellow borders make ‘White Lightning’ the most laid-back of my foliage selections. The white or pink-flushed goblet-shaped blooms that open from pink buds and bloom over late spring to mid-summer are the icing on the cake. This cultivar rises to just under 2m tall and has a spread of just over 1m. 11) W. florida ‘Variegata Nana’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘nana variegata’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Nana Variegata’ is a wonderfully floriferous option with foliage interest. It is compact, growing to just over 1m high with a similar spread. Its light green leaves emerge with bright yellow edging which lightens to a creamy colour, eventually fading to white. The little funnel-shaped blooms are of a gentle pastel lavender-pink hue and they too lighten and fade to white, mirroring the foliage. These flowers are borne from late spring into summer. 12) W. ‘Briant Rubidor’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘olympiade’ FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread ‘Olympiade’ is a medium-sized variety reaching nearly 2m in both height and spread. The brilliant ruby red hue of its funnel-shaped flowers is the chief attribute of this cultivar, though it has a further special characteristic – the foliage. The blooms get underway first in late spring and continue into summer, where the initially bright green foliage turns lime green and then to a greenish-yellow. Some leaves even show mottled variegation in the autumn. 13) W. florida ‘Wings Of Fire’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘wings of fire’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread A top pick for foliage colour, ‘Wings of Fire’ starts the autumn exhibition way ahead of time. By early summer, its mid-green leaves are injected with colour as various tones of yellow and bronzy-red become increasingly prominent. The leaves turn orange and coppery-red by late summer and go out in autumn in tones of ‘fire’ that are mentioned in the cultivar’s name. Funnily enough, this intense cultivar bears flowers of a sweet pink colour and is just over 1m high and wide. 14) W. florida ‘Verweig’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘monet’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Verweig’ foliage does not undergo spectacular colour changes, but it is aesthetically pleasing the way it is. To begin with, the leaves have a dark green centre with thick and irregular cream edging. The edging often has pink flushes or is entirely pink and its blooms are also a bright pink and are borne in late spring into summer. It forms small little hummocks of a mere 60cm tall and wide. 15) W. florida ‘Minor Black’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘minor black’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Consisting almost entirely of a dark chocolatey-purple hue, the glossy foliage of ‘Minor Black’ is offset by an abundance of funnel-shaped blooms in an electric purplish-pink tone that appear from late spring. One way or another, this striking variety is an outlier among weigelas in its colour palette. It reaches up to 75cm in height and has a spread of about 1m.
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