Growing
Cutting Back Box (Buxus): Establishment, Maintenance And Renovation Pruning Explained
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Box Establishment Pruning On Young Buxus Maintenance Pruning For Mature Box Renovation Pruning Box is popular for hedging and topiary forms in the UK and can be a versatile plant to use in a garden. However, while this plant is well suited to many of our gardens, it is also susceptible to a range of problems, including box blight and box caterpillars. The problems to which it is prone make it especially important to keep box as healthy as possible and to make sure we do everything we should with every element of its care. A healthy box is less likely to succumb to any problems and more likely to withstand any issues that do arise when growing this plant in a garden. Pruning is one of the things that we all need to make sure that we get right when it comes to growing these plants in our gardens. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or pruning shears, gardening gloves When To Prune Varies When To Prune Box When you should prune box very much depends on the age of the Buxus plant in question and on the aims of the pruning. There are three main types of pruning that you might think about if you are pruning box. The first of these is establishment pruning on young box plants, which is usually carried out in May, with perhaps some further work between then and September. The second is maintenance pruning to maintain the shape and form of box that has become established in the garden. This maintenance pruning is best carried out in August or September. The final type of pruning is renovation pruning on an older specimen or hedge that has become neglected. Hard pruning for renovation is usually carried out in May. Establishment Pruning On Young Buxus The goal of establishment pruning for young box trees is to encourage bushy growth and fill out the form of the hedge or topiary that we desire. First of all, when the box plants are young, the stems should be cut back by one-third of their length in May to encourage them to bush out. Potentially, further trimming might also be undertaken on these young plants between May and August in order to shape and train box to its desired shape, size and form. “Traditionally, Buxus is trimmed throughout the summer to maintain a tight neat, clipped appearance,” explains Bill Irving from Boxtrees Nursery. “However, we recommend minimal trimming in late summer when growth has slowed, as we have found this reduces the risk of box blight. “Looser-grown Buxus seems much less susceptible to pests and diseases.” Darren Lerigo from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society agrees with this method, especially when pruning for hedging: “Cut less often, once a year is fine, and get your timings right, pruning in September,” he says. “The second flush of growth will have finished at this time, so what you prune will stay looking pristine all through the winter, leaving you with a clean, clipped look for 6 months.” Maintenance Pruning For Mature Box Mature box plants are best trimmed to keep them in shape in the late summer. It is best to do so then, as by this stage the new shoots should have hardened off and growth should have slowed. The reason that it is best to avoid trimming mature box earlier is that if you do so, this creates a flush of soft growth that can be vulnerable to damage from drying winds, leaf scorch, hot sun and diseases like box blight. Pruning in August or September also helps to ensure that the hedge or topiary form continues to look neat and tidy during the winter months. Hedges are often trimmed freehand to maintain their shape. Topiary forms may sometimes have a guide framework to follow, though are also sometimes simply trimmed using a freehand approach. Taking your time and having an aesthetic eye is crucial when pruning to maintain a very neat form when growing box. This is a plant that lends itself to formality, though it can also be allowed to grow in a far more loose and natural form. “When pruning, go over hedges a few times, not just once,” Darren adds. “Box has a frustrating habit of folding the leaves down as you clip, flicking an uncut leaf back up into the air, ruining the outline of the shape you are trying to make, so go over it around 3-4 times. “This is extra work, but the hedge then looks amazing and draws the eye. “Remember, if you prune a boxwood hard it grows back, meaning that you can reinvent your garden regularly.” Bill also has some tips on what form to prune your box shrub into to help prevent and reduce the risk of box blight. “With these hedges, it is good practice to form a ‘batter’. “This is a tapered outline with the base as the widest point and allows light into the bottom of the hedge.” Renovation Pruning If a box hedge or topiary has become old, neglected and left unpruned over a period of time, it may have become weak, straggly and patchy and need more extensive pruning to put things right. Box can fortunately respond quite well to being cut back hard in the late spring. Potentially, you can cut the box back to within 15cm so that new growth will emerge and the plant can recover. This strategy is drastic and a little risky, but it can often have favourable results. After any pruning, it is a good idea to replenish the mulch around the base of the box by adding plenty of organic matter that will help to keep the box well-fed as well as offer it and the soil in which it grows some protection. “Mulching with wood chips or fine bark can be a good way to try to prevent box blight,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It provides organic matter and retains moisture, which promotes plant health. It also limits splash back onto lower leaves from the soil level, limiting the opportunity for blight spores to splash back onto foliage and spread.” As you can tell from the above, pruning Buxus is not really complicated, as long as you keep in mind the age of the box and what you are trying to achieve.
Learn more
Feeding And Mulching Box: Here's How To Keep Your Buxus Plants Healthy
IN THIS GUIDE Soil Requirements For Box Trees Providing The Right Mulch For Buxus Feeding Box Grown In Containers Buxus, or box as it is commonly known, is often used for topiary and hedging. This evergreen is neat and dense year-round and looks lovely when clipped into more formal forms or when left to grow more naturally. Unfortunately, this shrub can be prone to a number of pest and disease issues, so it is important to make sure that box is kept in good condition, as healthy plants are able to better withstand any issues that come their way. It is therefore important to ensure that our box trees get the nutrients they need to stay healthy; feeding Buxus well can help with this. When it comes to feeding box, here are the key things to remember: Box takes its nutrients from the soil in which it grows, so ensuring that the soil is healthy is the foundation of any good feeding regime. Mulch each spring with a thick mulch of well-rotted organic material such as homemade compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure. Feed box growing in containers with a balanced, organic, liquid plant feed once a month through the summer season, avoiding excessively high nitrogen feeds. We address each of these key factors below, with advice from our expert contributors. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mulch (such as leaf mould or well-rotted manure), liquid plant feed, a healthy soil When To Feed Spring or after pruning Soil Requirements For Box Trees Whenever we are thinking about feeding any plants, we always need to remember the fundamentals. Everything comes back to the soil since, of course, it is through that medium that the roots of the plant can obtain the nutrients they need. Therefore, the first step when feeding a box tree is to think about where you are growing it and whether the soil or growing medium in that location is optimal for the health of the variety you are growing. To learn the answer to this question, you also need to understand the soil requirements for box and what it needs to remain as happy and healthy as possible. Buxus needs soil that is moist yet free-draining or free-draining. These shrubs cannot tolerate remaining in a waterlogged situation and this is one of the most important factors in determining where they will grow well. Box shrubs thrive when in neutral to very mildly acidic soil, though they can be tolerant of a range of pH levels and can be grown successfully in many different soils. “The optimum soil pH should be 6.8-7.5,” shares Darren Lerigo, a Topiary Artist from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society. “The soil should also let the plants absorb nutrients easily and be free-draining so that the plant’s roots aren’t sitting in moist soil for too long. “If plants are in the ground and nutrients are required, apply a balanced fertiliser in the autumn to allow take up through the roots during the winter which will give natural growth in the spring. “Plants in pots will need regular low-level nutrients to replace those washed out due to watering: a liquid seaweed feed works well.” Before planting box in your garden, it is important to make sure you have amended the soil with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage and soil structure. This is especially important when the soil is a heavier one with poor drainage, but adding organic matter is always a good idea to improve the health of box plants and to make sure that they get the nutrients they need. Providing The Right Mulch For Buxus You should not only add plenty of organic matter to the planting area, but you should also replenish the mulch around box each spring in order to maintain soil health and keep your box growing strong, as Bill Irving from Boxtrees Nursery Ltd explains: “You should always water during dry spells and mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.” In addition to this annual mulching, it is also a good idea to add more organic matter around your box whenever it is pruned or when work due to illness or pests has been undertaken. Mulch adds nutrients to the soil as it breaks down that can be taken up by the roots of your plants. It also creates something of a barrier between the lowest leaves on your box and the soil, which may help to reduce the spread of problems like blight. Mulch also helps conserve soil moisture in dry conditions and can suppress weed growth to a degree. There are a number of different types of mulch that you might use around Buxus, including homemade compost, leaf mould and well-rotted manure. “For mulching Box, I use wood chip,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This breaks down to provide organic matter, conserves soil moisture and prevents the spread of fungal spores from water splash.” All of these choices offer a good nutritional profile and slow-release fertiliser for these plants. Keep in mind that feeding box trees too much, especially with high-nitrogen feeds, can be detrimental. An organic approach is always best and you may not need to do any more than mulching when growing box trees in the ground. If growth is poor, you can feed with an organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone in spring – however, this is often unnecessary and organic mulch will be sufficient to keep plants healthy and well-fed, provided your box is growing in reasonably healthy soil. Feeding Box Grown In Containers Box trees growing in containers require feeding a little more frequently and are fed differently from those growing in the ground. Of course, as with growing box trees in the ground, the growing medium should be your first concern. When growing Buxus in containers, a peat-free medium should be used. Remember, like good soil for box, a good potting mix should be moist yet free-draining and should contain a reasonable proportion of organic matter, making it reasonably rich and fertile in its composition. In addition to ensuring a good potting mix, which should be replenished regularly, box growing in containers is also best fed with a liquid plant feed every month or so during the summer. Make sure you use a fairly gentle feed that is not too high in nitrogen. A good quality compost tea may be ideal. As you can see from the above, feeding box trees is a simple process that differs when growing in the ground compared with container cultivation. It is easy to choose organic options for mulch and other feeds when growing these evergreen shrubs in your garden.
Learn more
Two Expert Buxus Growers Explain How To Care For Box Hedgerows And Topiary
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Commonly Grown Types How To Grow Buxus Planting Buxus Ongoing Box Care References Box is commonly used for neatly clipped hedgerows and topiary in the UK and is ubiquitous in some areas. However, there is good reason for its popularity, so in spite of its commonness, you may still find plenty of reasons to choose this popular plant. In this guide, we’ve worked with two Buxus experts who offer their top tips and tricks to help you successfully grow and care for box in your garden: Bill Irving – Director at Boxtrees Nursery. Darren Lerigo – Topiary Artist from Modern Mint. “There is nothing else like growing box,” says Darren. “The leaves are small, so you can get beautiful detail into any shape you clip them into, whether it is a classical, straight-edged plinth with a ball on top – or something serpentine and modern you might see in an Arne Maynard garden.” Overview Botanical Name Buxus sempervirens Common Name(s) Common Box, Boxwood Plant Type Shrub / Hedging Native Area West and South Europe, Northwest and Southwest Africa Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Pale yellow, insignificant When To Plant Best in autumn or spring When To Prune Summer Common box, Buxus sempervirens, is native to the southern reaches of England and is the only plant within its genus that is native to anywhere in the British Isles.1 Box is a common sight in many British gardens, where it is used for neatly clipped hedging and topiary forms. “Box trees are also great for wildlife, providing winter cover for garden birds and hedgehogs and are an important food source for bees early in the growing season,” says Bill. Unfortunately, while popular, Box is a shrub that can be susceptible to certain issues. The most problematic of these is box blight. This is a fungal infection that spreads easily and is just one of several fungal issues that can plague this plant.2 Boxwood shrubs can also be susceptible to insect infestations by box caterpillars. Commonly Grown Types Most box grown in the UK is B. sempervirens, though other Buxus are sometimes also grown, such as B. microphylla. B. microphylla Where box blight is a serious issue, B. microphylla is said to be somewhat less susceptible to this problem. “Look at some more unusual varieties like B. myrtifolia, which is so slow-growing, but looks lovely against gravel or a low wall,” shares Darren. “If you are worried about box blight, you could look at using the new hybrid varieties that are tolerant of the disease and another advantage is that the box tree caterpillar doesn’t seem to like them as much as Buxus sempervirens.” B. sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’ Some common box cultivars that are highly regarded include: B. sempervirens ‘Graham Blandy’ (AGM) B. sempervirens ‘Latifolia Maculata’ (AGM) B. sempervirens ‘Elegantissima’ (AGM) B. sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’ B. microphylla ‘Faulkner’ (AGM) Of course, there are a number of other named cultivars to choose from. How To Grow Buxus Box is very easy to grow and care for in a garden, but the amount of upkeep required will depend on how and where you are using it. For example, neatly clipped hedging and topiary forms can take much more upkeep than when you’re growing box in a more natural shape and form. Preferred Site Boxwood shrubs need a site in full sun or partial shade. They will typically do best in a location with morning sun where they are sheltered from the heat at the height of the day, especially in warmer, more southerly areas. “Place them by doorways or gates or use them as waymarkers or punctuation points around the garden,” says Darren. “They can also amplify the end of a border or can change the atmosphere completely if used in just the right spot and clipped just the right way.” Soil Requirements Box requires soil that is moist yet free draining or free-draining. These plants cannot tolerate remaining in a waterlogged situation and this is one of the most important factors in determining where they will grow well. Box shrubs thrive when in neutral to very mildly acidic soil, though they can be tolerant of a range of pH levels and can be grown successfully in many different soils. Planting Buxus If you have decided that you would like to plant some box in your garden, you will need to think about where and how you will integrate the plants into your garden design before you source the plants or consider how to grow them. You can purchase bare root box for a hedge or when you need a larger number. This is a more affordable way of buying box than purchasing plants in pots. However, where you want a stand-alone specimen or want a jump start on a topiary form, you can purchase a pot-grown plant and perhaps one already cultivated and pruned into a specific shape. The latter option can be purchased at any time, while bare root plants are available throughout the colder half of the year. However, the best times to plant out new box is either in spring or autumn, when the conditions make it a little easier for the plants to establish themselves successfully. Plant box just as you would any other shrub or hedging plant in your garden. “When planting, mound up the soil so that the plant’s root crown is about 50mm above the surrounding soil level,” Darren recommends. First, prepare the area. Make sure you have amended the soil with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage and soil structure. Next, determine spacing. For box hedging, a spacing of around 5 plants per metre is generally recommended, though this may be varied somewhat depending on the specific type and your goals. Box makes great hedging, but remember that closer spacing is required for these hedging plants than for some others, as box is relatively slow-growing. Once you have determined the right spacing, dig planting holes or a trench following the hedge line if you are planting a greater number of plants. Place the new box plants into these planting holes or trenches and firm the soil back around each one. After planting, be sure to water the new additions in well and then mulch around the base of the plants with organic matter, such as homemade compost or leaf mould. Ongoing Box Care The key thing when growing box is to make sure that you choose the right location for planting in the first place. If you have found a spot suited to the environmental conditions that box requires, then you should find it an easy and hassle-free plant to grow. Light As mentioned above, box can grow in full sun or partial shade. If you are growing a type with leaf variegation, you will usually find that colours are more vibrant in full sun, though most box will also be happy in partial or dappled shade. “The leaves of box reflect light,” explains Darren. “In Britain the sunlight can be quite weak, so it’s useful to have evergreen leaves that bounce the sunshine back around the garden. “Where the sunlight doesn’t hit a leaf, you get a shadow, which adds texture to your topiary or hedge. “It’s really worth thinking a lot about how the sunlight moves and is filtered around your garden space, as boxwood helps with that enormously, giving you scope to play with light and shade.” Watering Box will typically need to be kept well-watered from planting through to establishment, especially if the weather is very dry. However, once established, box will survive with natural rainfall and will only require watering or irrigation during prolonged periods of drought or particularly warm weather. Propagating If you have existing box and would like to propagate more, you might consider growing box from cuttings. It is very easy to propagate box by taking semi-ripe cuttings in early to mid-summer. The process can be very quick and it will take only around 2 months for cuttings to root with bottom heat or in a heated propagator. However, without heat in a cold frame, polytunnel or unheated greenhouse, it can take around 8 months for the cuttings to be well-rooted. Cuttings can potentially also root well in a year or so when simply planted in the ground in a moist and partially shaded spot. Once the cuttings root, you can encourage bushy growth by regularly pinching out the shoot tips. It will typically take 3-4 years before plants grown from cuttings are ready to be planted out into their final growing positions. Growing from seed takes a little longer and it will be around 5 years before your new plants are ready to go into their final growing positions in the garden. However, this is also a relatively straightforward process. Seeds should be sown in autumn or early spring into small pots and placed in a cold frame or other covered space to germinate and grow. It is important to make sure that you don’t let the young plants dry out. Common Problems Unfortunately, as mentioned earlier in this guide, the downside to growing box is that it is prone to a number of disease and pest problems. Of these common problems, box blight is perhaps the best-known and most alarming. Sadly, this problem is prevalent in many parts of the British Isles.3 “Clean your tools, as this way you prevent blight from spreading if you have it,” says Darren. As well as box blight (which we have covered in detail in a separate guide) there are also other problems to which box can succumb, including other fungal problems. “If box blight is rampant in your area, it may be worth considering an alternative species,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “The best alternative will depend on the soil and climate you have, so some homework and consideration is needed.” “Our box tree is not looking well at the moment due to the box caterpillar and drought is also really affecting our trees at the moment,” shares Lucy Hart, the Head Gardener at Fulham Palace Gardens. Box tree caterpillar is one of the most serious pests for these plants and these are unfortunately also common in many parts of the UK. “Look out for the boxwood caterpillar, especially in March, then take steps to predate it, as we don’t have the natural predators to do it for us here in the UK,” warns Darren. “Regular hand-picking is an option if you only have a couple of topiaries, but if you have lots, you will need to spray carefully with a product that controls caterpillars. “Make sure you read the instructions and spray when other garden beneficials aren’t around in the early morning or in the evening.” “Experiment with creative combinations of small-leaved evergreens,” says Bill. “There are many other plants that work well with Buxus and more diversity of plants within a garden will help minimise the impact of problems with plant health.” References 1. Trees and shrubs: native to Britain. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 3, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/trees/native-tree-shrubs 2. Calonectria pseudonaviculata (Buxus blight). (2022). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.17414 3. Box blight: managing outbreaks. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 3, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/prevention-protection/box-blight-managing-outbreaks
Learn more
Expert Tips For Growing Yew: This Native Provides Form And Structure Throughout The Year
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow A Yew Tree Preferred Location Planting Yew Yew Hedging Propagation Methods Yew Tree Care Guidelines References Yews are one of our native trees, sometimes taking a shrub-like form. They are attractive coniferous evergreens that can bear red berry-like fruits which are beloved by a range of wildlife as well as having ornamental appeal. In this guide we have collaborated with Bill Irving, the Director of Boxtrees Nursery which is a specialist Yew grower in Suffolk. “Yew trees are great garden plants,” says Bill. “They provide valuable form and structure throughout the year and look equally at home in traditional English country gardens and modern garden designs. “They are reliable and adaptable plants that tolerate a variety of growing conditions and aspects.” Though they are slow-growing, yews are remarkably unchallenging plants, coping with a wide range of conditions. They are versatile too and can be used in a wide range of different ways in a garden. Often used as hedging plants, these trees can also have numerous other applications. “I’ve planted many yews, most of which I hope will survive me and many generations to come,” shares Todd Longstaffe-Gowan, a Landscape Architect. Overview Botanical Name Taxus baccata Common Name(s) Yew Plant Type Tree / Shrub Native Area Europe including Britain & Ireland Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Insignificant When To Plant November to March When To Prune Late summer to early autumn Yew, botanically known as Taxus baccata, is a native tree in the Taxaceae plant family that carries an enormous weight of symbolism in the British Isles.1 They are often considered to be a symbol of both death and immortality.2 They are very long-lived, often found in churchyards.3 Yews, as native trees, are extremely beneficial for garden wildlife. Therefore, they can be a great choice for anyone who would like to create a wildlife-friendly garden to appeal to garden creatures all year round. The dense growth of yew trees provides shelter and habitat year-round and the fruits created on female yews are a food source for birds and small mammals during autumn and winter. Yews are one of only a very small number of evergreens that are native to some or all parts of the British Isles.4 This makes them a very popular choice for many gardeners. Common Varieties When choosing a yew tree for your garden, it is important to think about why you wish to grow it. Think about whether you are looking for a stand-alone specimen to grow relatively naturally, a plant for topiary or hedging, a taller tree, a shrub or a ground-covering plant. Some yew varieties with an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS are: T. baccata ‘Semperaurea’ This yew is a large shrub that eventually grows wider than it is tall, with a height and spread of up to 4m or so. It has erect branches and golden-yellow foliage that turns orange in winter. T. baccata ‘Fastigiata Aureomarginata’ Golden Irish yew is another large but compact evergreen shrub. When young, it tends to have a columnar form that broadens out as it ages. Its branches are upright and the foliage is yellowish towards the tips and margins. This yew also grows up to around 4m tall but typically grows no more than 2.5m wide. T. baccata ‘Repandens’ This is a ground-covering yew that grows no more than 0.1-0.5m in height but which can spread out over 2.5-4m. It is suitable for low hedging for formal gardens, bed edging or for the front of a border. T. baccata ‘Fastigiata Standishii’ Another Irish yew, this option is a yew with a columnar form, erect branches and rich, yellow-green foliage. It will tend to grow around 1-1.5m in height, spreading to 0.5-1m wide. T. baccata ‘Repens Aurea’ Another low-growing and spreading yew, this option grows to around 0.5-1m in height, ultimately spreading to about 1-1.5m. It has narrow, yellow-edged young leaves which later turn creamy in hue as they age. Yews can be very different from one another in terms of their size and form, so it is important to research the shape, growth habits and properties of any yew variety that you are considering. How To Grow A Yew Tree Once you have considered how you might use a yew tree in your garden design, it is important to make sure that you can meet the environmental requirements of these trees or shrubs. This means understanding the conditions that yews like and recognising the conditions in different locations in your garden. Preferred Location The great news is that yews can work well in many different situations and in a range of different soils. They can grow well in anything from full sun to deep shade in an exposed or sheltered location. Any soil type can work for growing yews, as long as it is well-drained and does not become waterlogged. These trees or shrubs are also unfussy when it comes to soil pH, though soil on the alkaline side is ideal. Taxus baccata ‘Dovastoniana’ All of this means that yew trees can be an excellent choice for many British gardens. Yew can be used in a wide range of locations and for a wide range of purposes. For example, you might grow yew trees as: Stand-alone natural trees or shrubs in a garden. Topiary or neatly clipped hedges. More natural, wildlife-friendly and informal hedgerows. In pots in a container garden. As groundcover plants. “Using baseless pots is something we do quite often, as you can grow plants like Taxus baccata in them, which don’t like being in a pot long term,” shares award-winning Landscape Architect Bunny Guinness. “You can add these pots to courtyards or underneath other trees. It helps to add something architectural to your outdoor places.” Planting Yew Before planting, wherever you have chosen to incorporate it into your garden design, be sure to prepare the area by making sure that it is rich in organic matter. “Preparation and establishment are the keys to growing strong healthy plants,” Bill says. “Prepare the ground well, plant when conditions are good and observe the plants regularly to keep a check on establishment and health.” Yews are typically purchased either as bare-root specimens or as container-grown trees. They are best planted either in the autumn or early winter (October to December) or in early spring (March) for the best results, whether you are planting an individual yew or creating a hedge. “Don’t be tempted to plant too closely,” says Bill. “Poor air circulation can lead to more risk of fungal disease.” Yew Hedging As mentioned above, you can grow yew as hedging in both formal, neat and clipped forms and in more informal hedgerow designs, perhaps alongside a number of other native tree and shrub species. One of the benefits of using yew for hedging is that, as a slow-growing plant, it will not typically need to be pruned or trimmed anywhere near as frequently as many other conifers and evergreens. Yew trees make excellent dense formal hedges and are a popular choice for manicured spaces. “Dense formal hedges may require additional cuts through the summer and autumn,” explains Bill. “Yew can also regenerate from old wood if any renovation is required.” “If your Yew hedge outgrows its original intended dimensions, you can hard prune it back in stages,” adds Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “In year 1, take one side of the hedge back to bare wood where you want growth to resume from. “When this has begun to regrow (perhaps year 2 or 3) then you can be confident in cutting back side 2 or the top and follow the same guidance for the next cut.” However, when left less clipped and allowed to grow naturally, yew can also be a great addition to a hedgerow for wildlife. Of course, since these trees are slow-growing, this also means that a hedge could take much longer to establish, but yew trees can still put on 30cm of growth annually in good conditions. Yew hedging is typically trimmed once a year, usually in the late summer. Propagation Methods Yew trees can be grown from seed, but the most common and easiest method of propagation is by means of cuttings. You can take softwood cuttings, which is a job undertaken in early summer, or you can take semi-ripe cuttings from late summer to early autumn. Cuttings provide offspring that are identical to the parent yew. Yew Tree Care Guidelines Yews are great low-maintenance plants and any maintenance, such as neat trimming or topiary techniques, will be optional. These are not fussy plants and they have very few extremely strict requirements. Light Light, as we have already discussed, is not an area where yews are fussy at all. These trees or shrubs can grow just as well in deep shade as they can in partial shade or full sun. Soil Requirements Yews are also tolerant of soil type and characteristics. They can grow in any soil type except a heavy clay that has not been amended at all, as the only stipulation is that the soil must drain freely and cannot become waterlogged. However, even a heavy clay can be suitable for growing yew if it is amended with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage. Any pH is fine too and even though more acidic soils are not ideal, they are still tolerated by these adaptable plants. Watering Yews should usually be watered during prolonged dry spells while they are becoming established or when they are grown in containers. Otherwise, natural rainfall should be sufficient. Feeding These strong trees or shrubs do not typically need additional feeding, as long as they are grown in reasonably nutrient-rich healthy soil. However, in containers and elsewhere if the growth seems poor, you can consider applying an organic fertiliser in late winter. References 1. Yew – Taxus baccata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 30, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/yew 2. Yew (Taxus baccata). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 30, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/yew/#:~:text=Yew%20trees%20were%20used%20as,Palm%20Sunday%20and%20at%20funerals. 3. Callery, S. (2020, June 25). Why do so many English churchyards have yews? British Guild of Tourist Guides. Retrieved March 30, 2023, from https://britainsbestguides.org/blogs/why-do-so-many-english-churchyards-have-yews/#:~:text=There%20was%20another%20reason%20for,also%20suggested%20rebirth%20and%20resurrection. 4. Barkham, P. (2019b, September 28). Britain’s ancient yews: mystical, magnificent – and unprotected. The Guardian. Retrieved March 30, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/sep/28/britain-ancient-yews-mystical-magnificent-and-unprotected
Learn more
Grow Sweet Box For Winter Interest In The Colder Months - Horticulturists Share How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Sweet Box Plant Care Propagation References Sarcococca confusa, or sweet box as it is often known, is a great shrub for providing winter interest during the colder months. Around the festive time in December and January, it produces small and delicate white flowers that are sweetly scented and give the plant its other name – Christmas box. A tough and easy-to-grow evergreen shrub, it needs little care and grows equally well when planted in a border or in a pot. Overview Botanical Name Sarcococca confusa Common Name(s) Sweet box / Christmas box Plant Type Shrub Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers White When To Plant All year round When To Prune February-March Sarcococca confusa is a member of the Buxaceae family and was introduced to the United Kingdom from China in the early 19th century.1 A group of hardy and reliable shrubs, sarcococcas not only provide some evergreen interest all year round, but their flowers can brighten up the darkest of winter days. Sarcococca shrubs are tough and will cope with a fair amount of neglect and pollution, making them perfect for a front garden or city courtyard. S. confusa is one of the densest growing varieties and can grow, if given room, to an eventual height and spread of 2m. Having been awarded the Award of Garden Merit by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), it has proven to perform reliably well in the garden. Planting Sarcococca shrubs are widely available and are sold potted up in a range of pot sizes from 9cm all the way up to 50L plus. Sarcococca tends to be an unfussy shrub to grow and will cope with almost any soil as long as it is moist and free-draining. To plant directly into the ground, prepare a hole twice as wide as its root ball and at least as deep. Add some well-rotted organic matter and, if the soil is heavy, some horticultural grit to open up the soil and increase drainage. Backfill with soil, firm in gently and water in well. If planting in a pot or container, make sure drainage holes are present and add some crocks or gravel to the base of the pot. Part fill with a free-draining potting mix for shrubs and plant the sarcococca at the same depth it previously was, then backfill with soil and water well. Where To Plant Sarcococcas will tolerate almost any position as long as it is sheltered. Preferring full or partial shade, they are ideal for a troublesome north-facing spot or in the shade of a tree. However, they can also be grown in full sun as long as the soil is kept from drying out. The scent of the sweet box in flower is so special that it’s a shame not to appreciate it, which is why they are so often planted near a porch or doorway so they can be enjoyed when passing. When To Plant Commonly available as a potted shrub, sarcococcas can be planted at almost any time of year, except when the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Care must be taken if planting during the warmer months though as they will need enough moisture to help them get established and not dry out. Sweet Box Plant Care Soil Requirements S. confusa is a tolerant shrub and will cope well when grown in most soil types, whether clay, loam, chalk or sand, as long as it is free-draining and can be kept moist. Pruning S. confusa is an easy shrub to grow and care for and pruning is not strictly necessary. However, they can be pruned with a clean and sharp pair of secateurs or shears right after flowering in February or March to keep them to size and shape. “I have a low S. confusa hedge by my front door as its scent, at a time of year when little else is flowering, is so welcome,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “The scent hangs on the breeze on cool, still late winter days. After flowering, in March or April I cut the hedge back, removing all of the previous season’s growth. “It will flower again on the new season’s growth.” Overwintering Sweet box plants have an H5 hardiness rating, which means they are usually able to withstand temperatures as low as -10 to -15°C and are able to survive even a harsh winter in most parts of the UK. Common Problems S. confusa tends not to be affected by pests or diseases and usually grows for many years relatively carefree. However, when grown in a pot or container it can be easy for them to dry out, with their leaves turning crinkly and yellow or brown, unless watered deeply and often during the summer months. Companion Planting Sweet box shrubs are happiest when grown in the shade and are often grown with other plants with similar growing requirements. Cornus Growing to an eventual height and spread of 2m, they are perfect for the back of a border – and combine well with other winter interest plants such as cornus and hellebores. Being evergreen, they are often used as a screening plant and grown as a low informal hedge. Propagation S. confusas sucker freely and can be propagated in a number of different ways. Perhaps the easiest method of increasing your sweet box stock, either for the garden or to give away to family and friends, is by using the suckers. Growing under the foliage around the base of the plant, these suckers can either be cut off a few centimetres under the soil surface with a sharp knife or pulled up. These suckers usually have some short white roots attached and can be potted up and grown on until large enough to plant out. Sweet box can also be propagated by semi-hardwood cuttings taken at the end of the summer or in early autumn. 10-15cm long cuttings can be taken from any healthy growth, but need to include some soft green growth at the top and harder wood at the bottom. Remove all but the top 3-4 leaves and cut the base of the cutting square, just below a leaf node. Insert the cuttings halfway into a pot filled with free-draining potting mix and water well. Cover with a clear plastic bag to limit any moisture evaporating and keep out of direct sunlight until rooted, after which they can be potted on. Sarcococca can also be grown from seed, however, this tends to be the least preferred option for home gardeners as they grow so well from suckers and cuttings. References 1. Sarcococca Confusa (sweet Box). (2021, April 7). Birmingham Botanical Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.birminghambotanicalgardens.org.uk/plants-of-the-month-december/sarcococca-confusa/
Learn more
‘Emerald Gaiety’ And 'Pink Delight' - Here's 15 Euonymus Shrubs In Various Forms
IN THIS GUIDE 1) E. alatus ‘Compactus’ 2) E. alatus ‘Fire Ball’ 3) E. cornutus var. quinquecornutus 4) E. europaeus ‘Red Cascade’ 5) E. europaeus ‘Thornhayes’ 6) E. fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ 7) E. fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ 8) E. fortunei ‘Emerald Surprise’ 9) E. fortunei ‘Kewensis’ 10) E. fortunei ‘Wolong Ghost’ 11) E. hamiltonianus ‘Pink Delight’ 12) E. japonicus ‘Microphyllus Aureovariegatus’ 13) E. japonicus ‘Chollipo’ 14) E. phellomanus 15) E. planipes ‘Sancho’ Euonymus shrubs are popular shrubs that can be evergreen or deciduous and can differ greatly in their size, growth habit and appearance. If you would like to grow euonymus in your garden then you may become overwhelmed by the many different species and cultivars that you might choose. Hopefully my list of 15 handpicked varieties that are my personal favourites might help you make up your mind! Bear in mind that all of the varieties in this list can be grown in full sun or partial shade in an exposed or sheltered location and can grow in any fertile soil. 1) E. alatus ‘Compactus’ COMMON NAME(S): Compact winged spindle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green, pink & red FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Orange, purple and red FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This compact form of winged-spindle is a small deciduous shrub growing around 1m tall and 1.5m wide. It develops prominent corky ridges on the branches and the foliage turns red in the autumn. Small green flowers are followed by red-purple fruits with orange seeds inside in autumn. 2) E. alatus ‘Fire Ball’ COMMON NAME(S): winged spindle ‘fire ball’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & red FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Orange and purple FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn A dense and round-formed deciduous shrub which grows to around 1.5m, this is a slightly larger varietal. Its matt-green foliage turns a vivid, fiery red in the autumn months. Again, you can also see small green flowers in spring which are followed by reddish-purple fruits and as the year wears on, these fruits split open to reveal orange seeds. 3) E. cornutus var. quinquecornutus COMMON NAME(S): five-horned spindle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Orange, purple & pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Five-horned spindle is a deciduous, spreading shrub which grows to around 2m tall and 3m wide. It has narrow, lance-like leaves of dark green. In summer, this shrub bears small purplish-green flowers which are followed by pinky-purple fruits. The fruits have five slender horn-like protuberances which look like a jester’s hat and break open to reveal bright orange seeds. 4) E. europaeus ‘Red Cascade’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘red cascade’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & red FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Orange & pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This European spindle is a large and vigorous deciduous shrub, growing to around 3m. It has oval leaves that turn bright red in autumn and small yellow-green flowers, which are followed by bright rose-pink fruits that break open to reveal the orange seeds within. 5) E. europaeus ‘Thornhayes’ COMMON NAME(S): white spindle ‘thornhayes’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & bronze FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Orange & pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn / Winter Another great European spindle to grow, this option grows to around the same size as the above and is also deciduous. It has dark green foliage that develops bronze tints in autumn. The flowers are green and white; inconspicuous but rich in nectar. These are followed by bright pink fruits with four lobes which break open revealing the orange seeds within, lasting well into winter to bring interest to the garden at the coldest time of year. 6) E. fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ’emerald gaiety’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green, white & pink FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This is a small evergreen euonymus that forms small bushy evergreen shrubs, but will also climb when placed against a wall or fence. The rounded green leaves have an irregular white margin around each one and are tinged pink in the winter. Unfortunately, the flowers are rarely seen. This variety is H5 hardy. 7) E. fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ’emerald ‘n’ gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green, yellow & pink FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This dwarf evergreen shrub has a spreading habit and grows around 1m tall with a spread of 1.5m. It has green leaves with broad yellow margins, tinged pinkish in the winter, and a few small and inconspicuous greenish flowers are sometimes produced in summer. Grow in partial or full shade, or in full sun in a moist location. 8) E. fortunei ‘Emerald Surprise’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ’emerald surprise’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green & yellow FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Emerald Surprise’ is an evergreen growing up to 1m in height with a spread of 1.5m. It has broad leaves that have a bright green hue with broad bright yellow margins, and the leaves are also sometimes tinged pink in the winter. 9) E. fortunei ‘Kewensis’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘kewensis’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green & red FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen Growing just 10cm or so tall and spreading up to around 50cm, this small evergreen shrub forms a dense mat of ground cover. It has tiny leathery leaves of green, which can get red tints in autumn. “E. fortunei ‘Kewensis’ is a great ground cover plant, helping to retain moisture and suppress weeds, but I find that is also loose enough to allow bulbs to burst through in spring,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. 10) E. fortunei ‘Wolong Ghost’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘wolong ghost’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen This is another mat-forming evergreen euonymus variety but it can also be a climber when provided with some support. This has slender dark green foliage with prominent pale veining. 11) E. hamiltonianus ‘Pink Delight’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘pink delight’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green and pink FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This deciduous spindle shrub can grow between 2.5-4m in height with a spread of 1.5-2.5m. It has large oval mid-green hued leaves which turn a dark pink in the autumn. In summer, the shrub bears small white and green flowers and these are followed by pink fruits which split open to reveal dark pink seeds. 12) E. japonicus ‘Microphyllus Aureovariegatus’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘Microphyllus Aureovariegatus’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green & yellow FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen Also known as ‘Ovatus Aureus’, this is a bushy and medium-sized evergreen with bright yellow-gold oval leaves that later mature to yellowish-green with wide yellow margins. 13) E. japonicus ‘Chollipo’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘chollipo’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green & cream FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This is a busy evergreen shrub with rounded leaves. The leaves are a rich deep green, with yellowish-cream margins. Again, this plant will not typically produce flowers or fruits. 14) E. phellomanus COMMON NAME(S): corky spindle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & yellow FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn Corky spindle is a large deciduous shrub which grows up to 4m tall with a spread of 2.5m. It has corky-winged branches, mid-green foliage, and greenish-yellow flowers that are followed by fruits with a bright pink hue in the autumn. 15) E. planipes ‘Sancho’ COMMON NAME(S): flat-stalked spindle ‘sancho’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & red FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Orange & red FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This cultivar is a free-flowering variety of flat-stalked spindles. The flowers lead to an abundance of red fruits in the autumn, which add visual appeal alongside the red autumn foliage. Of course, these are not the only options you might consider, but when looking for a euonymus variety to grow in your garden, these options listed above can be a good place to start.
Learn more
Grown As Hedging, Lavender Can Fulfil A Range Of Functions Along Garden Edges
IN THIS GUIDE Why Create A Lavender Hedge? Varieties For Hedging Lavender Alternatives Where To Grow A Lavender Hedge Preparing The Site When & How To Plant Ongoing Maintenance References Lavender hedges are truly beautiful, enriching spaces with their beauty and delightful scent. Not everyone will be able to grow and maintain a lavender hedge in their garden, but where the conditions are suitable, lavender hedges can be a great choice. They can be used to line beds or borders, demarcate different garden zones, or along the edges of pathways or patios. “I love to plant lavender hedges lining a path so that it forms a neat edge during the winter, but just enters the path area when in flower,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This creates a fantastic fragrance as people brush against the flowers or drag their hands through the flowers.” Why Create A Lavender Hedge? “Lavenders are quintessentially British and are loved by bees and other pollinators,” says the MD of Fairweather’s Nursery, Patrick Fairweather. “There is nothing like brushing against their fragrant flowers in summer.” Lavender does not just look and smell delightful. This is a flowering herb which also has a wide range of other uses. In garden design, it is always a good idea to make sure that you think about including elements which can fulfil as many different functions as possible. Lavender is certainly a plant which can fulfil a wide range of functions, as it can be useful in the garden itself and also has many uses within your home. Here are just some of the reasons why creating a lavender hedge can be such a wonderful idea: Lavender is an evergreen shrub which will look good all year round. It is a low-growing, neat-looking hedge or bed edging which will not get out of hand. It flowers for a relatively long period over the summer months, bringing visual and olfactory appeal. The flowers also bring plenty of pollinators and other valuable insect life to your garden, and their scent may confuse, distract or potentially repel certain pest species. Lavender also provides wonderful cut flowers for displays inside your home. Varieties For Hedging If you have determined that a lavender hedge is a right choice for your garden, then the next decision you will have to take is which type of lavender to grow. “L. x intermedia Lavenders like ‘Phenomenal’ make dramatic hedges with long flower spikes and large silvery leaves,” says Patrick. You might also consider: English Lavender Lavandula angustifolia cultivars include: ‘Munstead’ ‘Hidcote’ ‘Arctic Snow’ ‘Little Lady’ ‘Nana Alba’ Lavandin Lavandula x intermedia is a hybrid type that is slightly less hardy than the above. It is a cross between L. angustifolia and L. latifolia. French Lavender L. stoechas is notably more tender than both of the above and is not typically the best choice for a lavender hedge in the UK. However, with its conspicuous bunny-ear-like bracts and longer flowering period, it could be an option to consider in particularly warm and sunny southern gardens. Lavender Alternatives One alternative to lavender to consider for hedging in similar conditions, either instead of or in addition to lavender plants, is hyssop. This does not have as delightful a smell as lavender but is a useful herb, which makes good hedging and was commonly used in Tudor knot gardens.1 Germanders are another plant suitable for low hedging or bed edging in a sunny and free-draining spot. Teucrium x lucidrys has small pink flowers and looser Teuchrium fruiticans has lavender-purple flowers; both are also great for bees and pollinators in your garden. If you have heavier soil, or conditions in your garden that are not ideal for a lavender hedge, you can still achieve a similar look using different plants. Nepeta is another flowering herb which can look similar to lavender and also help with bringing beneficial insects to your garden. This is perhaps the best option for those in cooler, more northern areas, who may struggle to achieve a successful lavender hedge in their garden. Where To Grow A Lavender Hedge Before you rush out to buy lavender for a lavender hedge, it is important to understand where such an element can thrive, and where it may not. It is important to make sure that the site where you are considering placing a lavender hedge is suitable for the purpose. Lavender needs a site in full sun, plenty of warmth and, most crucially, friable and free-draining soil. These plants are not suited to areas with heavy clay soil, or to areas where waterlogging can become an issue. Above all, this Mediterranean plant cannot handle having ‘wet feet’. “Whether you’re growing lavender as hedging or in pots or borders, much of the advice we give is the same,” says Julia Snowball, from Yorkshire Lavender. “Plant them in full sun and ensure the soil is well-drained and not too rich.” If the soil and conditions in your garden are suitable for growing lavender then you should think next about the layout of the space, and where lavender hedges might be beneficial. For example, you might place lavender: Close to a seating area where the attractive flowers and their fragrance can be admired. Along a pathway or along border edges, so you can enjoy the look and smell of the lavender as you pass by. As a boundary for a food-producing annual kitchen garden, where pollination services are required. Around the edges of a bed used to grow other culinary herbs. As a boundary around the sunny side of a fruit-tree guild or forest garden area to bring in more beneficial insect life to the system. Preparing The Site Once you have chosen your site and your lavender type, the next job is preparing the planting area. First of all, it is a good idea to amend the soil with plenty of organic matter, to improve fertility and ensure the right balance between moisture retention and drainage. Top dress rather than digging or tilling in this material to keep the soil web intact and healthy. It is also a good idea to mark out the locations where you would like your lavender hedges to run. If you want to ensure straight lines, then this can be achieved with a string and a couple of stakes inserted into the ground. To make curved shapes, you can mark them out with string, or a garden hose laid on the ground, or you can even mark out the lines with sprinkled flour. Ideally, lavender hedges should be planted in ridges or berms raised slightly above the surface of the surrounding pathways, so a no-dig approach can be beneficial. This allows water to drain freely from around the base of the plants, so creating these raised areas with homemade compost or other similar organic materials can be ideal. When & How To Plant “The best time to plant a lavender hedge is September to November, while the soil is still warm enough for the roots to become established before winter,” says Julia. Planting in early autumn gives the lavender plants the opportunity to establish strong, healthy root growth before colder weather arrives. Lavender can also be purchased and planted out earlier over the summer months, but transplantation will usually be less stressful to the plants if carried out once the weather gets a little cooler. “Water the lavenders when you plant them, then once a week for the next three weeks, unless there’s a spell of wet weather,” Julia explains. “After this, the plants should need no further watering.” Lavender plants can be placed in a single row to create thinner hedges, or doubled up and planted in double rows. Ideally, it is best to plant your lavender on a ridge or berm, raised about 15cm from the surrounding soil and 20-25cm wide, or around double that width if you would like to create a double row. As a general rule of thumb, it is best to place plants around 25cm apart. Hedgerows made with larger plants may create an impact, but choosing smaller plants will usually mean that your hedgerow establishes more quickly. If you are adding more than one row of plants for your lavender hedge, the second row should be staggered, so that each plant is just behind the spot between two plants in the first row. You may wish to add gravel, small pebbles or similar around the base of the plants to improve surface drainage and reduce weed competition, or simply for visual appeal. However, this is not strictly necessary. Ongoing Maintenance “Lavender makes a great hedge, but it will only look good in winter if it is pruned immediately after flowering in late summer to help avoid it from going woody,” Patrick says. “It’s especially important to start pruning young plants from an early age. “Always leave 2 pairs of leaves below where you cut and never prune into old wood where there are no leaves below the cut mark.” Lavender hedges should be pruned each year to maintain their shape. When lavender is not pruned, the plants can become straggly and woody after a few years. Typically, lavender is pruned in late summer or early autumn after the flowers fade, though plenty of flowers may already have been harvested from the hedge before this time. Typically, you can cut back harder, especially when dealing with English lavender, and I’d recommend aiming to remove around one-third of the length of each stem. References 1. Larson, R. (2018, October 28). The Early Tudor Garden (circa 1490-1550). Tudors Dynasty. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://tudorsdynasty.com/the-early-tudor-garden-circa-1490-1550/
Learn more
Growing Hazelnut Tree - 'If I Could Recommend Just One Native Tree, This Would Be It'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Hazelnuts? How To Grow Hazelnut Trees Hazelnut Tree Care Harvesting Hazelnuts References The hazelnut tree is one of the most useful and valuable nut-producing trees in the UK, and it can be a useful addition to many gardens. If I could recommend just one tree for UK gardeners looking for trees with edible and useful yields, then I think that the hazel tree would be it. Whether you are looking for a tree to use as an individual specimen tree, looking for a tree for coppicing, looking for lower canopy trees for forest gardens, or orchards – or even looking for trees to use in mixed native hedgerows – the hazel is an excellent choice. It is one of our favourite native trees – for a range of reasons. Overview Botanical Name Corylus avellana Common Name(s) Hazel(nut) Tree; Common Hazel Plant Type Tree / Hedging Native Area Europe & W. Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Dangling Catkins When To Sow January, February, March, November, December Harvesting Months September, October Pruning Months January, February, March, November, December Our native hazel tree is Corylus avellana; the Common Hazel is native to all of Europe and even some of West Asia – stretching all the way to the Caucusus.1 Common hazel It naturally grows in woods, especially on the slopes of hills, forming small trees up to around 6m high and 3m wide, though it can easily be kept much smaller when pruned and shaped as part of a wild hedgerow, or when used in a coppicing system. This is an extremely hardy tree that can cope well with a wide range of conditions here in the UK. Corylus maxima Corylus maxima is another type of hazelnut tree that may be of interest. It is a Hazel species with much in common with C. avellana – but generally produces more sizable nuts. If growing hazel for edible nuts, therefore, hybrid types C. avellana x C. maxima can be good choices. However, yields of both these edible nuts are usually better in more southern reaches of the British Isles than they are further north. Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ C. avellana ‘Contorta’ (corkscrew hazel) is another interesting option for your garden. ‘Contorta’ It is chosen for its ornamental twisting stems rather than its yield, but can be a good choice to consider if you are just looking for a small ornamental tree for your garden. Why Grow Hazelnuts? Hazelnuts are one of the very best perennial protein and oil crops for temperate climates. C. avellana catkins If you are looking to branch out beyond traditional annual food cultivation and look into more sustainable, perennial food-producing options, then the hazel tree is an excellent option to consider. Yields & Uses Yields can vary, and wildlife can be a challenge – often getting to the nuts before you can, but if you want to grow nuts in the UK, hazels are one of the top trees to consider. Hazel nuts are edible, of course, but can also be used in other ways – for example, the nuts can be rubbed on wood to release the oil and polish it. The non-drying oil derived from the seeds is also used in paints and cosmetics. Even if you are not looking to produce nuts in your garden, hazel trees can still be a very good choice. Wildlife Benefits The hazel is a wonderful, wildlife-friendly landscaping tree – attracting and supporting a wide range of native species. This tree can be coppiced and so can be great in carbon gardening and long-term, sustainable garden systems. If you have a vegetable garden, you will no doubt be able to find plenty of ways to use coppiced hazel in supporting your plants. Hazel trees can also be very useful for native hedgerow schemes. It works well in combination with other native species such as elder, blackthorn, hawthorn, native roses etc. All hazel trees, however, have ornamental appeal – especially when they bear their dangling catkins in late winter or early spring. How To Grow Hazelnut Trees Hazels can grow in full sun or light, dappled shade. They are H6 hardy and can grow across most of the British Isles. Soil Requirements Generally unfussy about their growing conditions, they will unfortunately not grow well in acidic soil, but can cope well in neutral, alkaline or even very alkaline soils. They can thrive in most soil types, but will do best in a good quality loam, which is neither low in nutrients nor excessively high in fertility. Yields are highest where the soils are neither particularly poor nor particularly rich. In clay soils, the area should be amended with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage, since the hazelnut tree likes moist yet relatively free-draining conditions. Exposure Hazelnut trees can tolerate wind exposure, but will not typically thrive in a maritime location. You can grow a hazel as a stand-alone tree, even in a smaller garden, while you can also consider growing it as an under-storey tree or coppice shrub in an existing woodland area or in a forest garden design. As mentioned above, you can also use it in hedgerows. Results (nut yields) will generally be best if you plant more than one hazel. Planting Like other trees, hazels are often bought as bare-root specimens which can be planted out over the dormant period. However, hazels can withstand transplantation well, so you can also choose a mature specimen if you want to achieve a more established garden more quickly, and plant that out in spring or early autumn. Hazels can also be grown from seed, though most home gardeners will find this a challenging proposition, and of course it will take a long time. Hazels grown from seed are typically transplanted into their growing position when around 2 years old, then, for coppicing, left for 4 years or so before they are cut to the ground to encourage straight coppice stems to form. Hazelnut Tree Care Hazels will not typically require a lot of care, though young trees and shrubs should be well watered during dry periods until they are established. Mulching It is a good idea to mulch around a newly planted hazel tree with wood chip, bark, or other organic material. Woody mulches will encourage a fungal soil environment, which can also help trees to become established. Protection It may also be a good idea to protect young trees from deer and other foragers with a wire cage or a tree protector in areas where they may be vulnerable. If you want to collect the edible nuts then you may find it challenging to protect the tree from squirrels and other wildlife. A fruit cage or other protection might be beneficial if you wish to grow nuts in any quantity. Diversity will also help make sure there is plenty of other food around for foraging creatures – though of course won’t keep them away entirely. Pruning / Coppicing Pruning or coppicing hazel will depend on where and how exactly you wish your hazel to grow. You can prune hazel lightly to keep it in shape, or largely leave it alone. “In a small garden the largest stems can be pruned out in alternate years in spring once the catkins have dropped, keeping the plant size restricted,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly, who has been certified in tree inspection by the Arboricultural Association. “These stems can then be re-used as poles elsewhere in the garden,” advises Colin. If growing it in a hedgerow, you can also leave it wilder or keep it more in check, or you can coppice hard in a regular coppicing system. Cutting hazel to the ground every 5-10 years is typical, usually in spring after the catkins have dropped. This will encourage the hazel to take on a more shrub-like form, with plenty of long, straight stems that you can use. Harvesting Hazelnuts Hazelnuts are harvested from September, as long as the wildlife has not gotten there first. The nuts are ripe when the outer casing begins to turn yellow. The nuts can be eaten raw, roasted, or used in a range of different ways. You can store the nuts in their casing for up to around a year if you can keep them safe from mice and other pests. But remember, even if you do not get any nuts, hazelnut trees can still provide a range of other yields and are very useful additions to your garden. References 1. Corylus avellana. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:295446-1
Learn more
8 Expert-Approved Topiary Trees & Bushes For Amazing Garden Shapes
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Topiary Topiary Types 1) Common Yew (Taxus baccata) 2) Thuja (Arborvitae) 3) Privet (Ligustrum) 4) ‘Japanese Hollies’ (Ilex crenata) 5) Honeysuckle (Lonicera) 6) Alberta Spruces (Picea glauca) 7) Wall Germander (Teucrium) 8) Box Wood (Buxus) References Be it a simple ball or cube, or an intricate tiger or motor car, a sculpted tree or hedge grabs your attention. The (very old) art form of topiary has enjoyed something of a resurgence during the past century, and, though crafting representational forms is an acquired skill, you can make simple shapes if you merely choose the right tree or bush. In this guide, we have collaborated with Darren Lerigo, a Topiary Artist based in the UK who is a member of the European Boxwood and Topiary Society and is the founder of Modern Mint. One may define Topiary as the art of sculpting with plants and trees, but just as the sculptor requires the right type of marble or other material, so too does the topiarist need a ’sculptable’ member of the Plant Kingdom. Most are not sculptable at all while a few are more sculptable than some others. The art and technique of this nature-sculpting involves patient, continual, and progressive training, pruning, and clipping of the subject shrub or tree. Though topiary is very much an ‘in thing’ in the British Isles and has been so for decades, it comes down to us from the classical world. Reputedly, the ancient Greeks enjoyed making simple forms and shapes with plant life.1 You too could start off by making simple spherical and conical forms and other geometric shapes before proceeding to more ambitious ‘tree sculptures.’ “For clients’ gardens, we always start with a structure, which is usually in the form of a topiary,” shares Garden Designer Kate Gould. We do know that topiary took off in Rome during the rule of Augustus Caesar.2 One Gaius Matius Calvinus, a horticulturist friend of Julius Caesar and his adopted son Octavian, later Augustus, played the major role in popularising this art form. Quite possibly this art arrived on Anglo-Saxon shores after the Roman conquests during the reign of Claudius Caesar.3 Topiary probably reached its high-water mark in Great Britain at the close of the Seventeenth Century. Historical Knot Garden in Sudeley Castle Grounds During the Tudor and Stuart Periods, hedge mazes and knot gardens, which are advanced forms of topiary, were all the rage in aristocratic gardens. Since the anti-topiary 1740s, this gardener’s art form has had its ups and downs in the British Isles as well as in other European countries.4 Today, its foremost practitioners are the Dutch, French, Italians, Americans, and – of course – the British. Some British nurseries even have a separate department for topiary plants, and a few specialise in hedging and topiary. Ready-to-go boxwood topiaries are – of course – also available. As for the budding topiarist, they can choose from a variety of topiary shears and pruners, and instructional books. Expert-Chosen Topiary “After Boxwood and Yew, which are the two classic plants used for topiary, I love some of the deciduous plants native to the UK,” says Darren. “Hawthorn is great for topiary because it is a fast-growing plant that can cope in our climate, that also gives you blossom in late spring, haws in autumn and, when mature, a twisty trunk full of character. “After a few years of clipping, the branches get knitted together and thorny. This looks brilliant against the sky in winter when the plant is denuded of leaves. “Birch is another plant I’m trying to use,” Darren shares. “Again, you get the bark on the trunk that stands out in winter and then the yellow leaf in Autumn, adding seasonal interest to your garden. “Birch also has this odd branch structure once the leaves have fallen off, which has the appearance of dark buckwheat honey dripping in its own time off a spoon. “I like that and, when made as a topiary, it catches the attention of those that visit the garden. “I am also experimenting with oak as a hedge and as a topiary to see what happens,” explains Darren. “Oak is slow-growing, but we know it supports such a lot of wildlife, so why not use it!” Topiary Types Which ’sculpting material’ should you choose, though? In general, the bush or tree should be evergreen, leaves should be on the small side or be scale-like or needle-like, the bush or tree should exhibit density of branching and density of foliage, and have a ‘tight’ or non-sprawling habit. Over and above that, you need to choose the ‘material’ from the Plant Kingdom that is right for your planned topiary subject. As an obvious example, some bushes lend themselves to shorter, flatter and longer shapes; others to tall and narrow forms. We assist you in selecting the precise tree or bush for the particular garden shape you have in mind. 1) Common Yew (Taxus baccata) Yews rank at Number One because they are tried and tested topiary media for centuries, are still going strong, and possess all the desirable qualities of topiary plants, to which they even add a few of their own. A Yew is very long-lived and so can be a multi-generational heritage, it grows from green wood but also regenerates from brown wood, and its dense foliage typically comprises of needle-like leaves with shades varying from yellow-gold to sparkling, brilliant green. Though a good few Taxus varieties, particularly T. baccata cultivars, make excellent topiary bushes, it is difficult to look beyond T. baccata or Common Yew because of its extraordinary qualities. Where Taxus and Yews are the subject, the varieties are only interesting ‘nice to haves’ for something a little different; for serious topiary it is almost all about Common Yew. Its somewhat springy branches can take tough training just as well as they can withstand pruning and clipping, as the bush is shaped into whatever whimsical shape. An Airborne View of an Old Yew Maze To explain it thus, if a goodly number Thuja varieties are as if made to order for specific shapes, then Common Yew is the lump of clay or the piece of Parian that can reliably be sculpted into anything at all (provided the topiarist is a master). Just as topiary tyros ought to start with Thuja, Topiary’s Rodins and Michelangelos tend to opt for T. baccata. Besides being long-lived, for a bush or a hedge, Common Yew is massive, as it can spread to eight 8m or more and rise to more than 12m with a height of ten being common. If you’d like to build a Stuart Period maze over the next several years, get yourself a few dozen Common Yews. Best for: T. baccata ‘Repens aurea’: Very small sizes, knot gardens Taxus x media ‘Densiformis’: Small sizes, ovoid forms, horizontally elongated shapes T. baccata ‘Standishii’: Small sizes, (mini) spires, spirals T. baccata ‘Semperaurea’: Medium sizes, hexahedrons, representational shapes Taxus x media ‘Hicksii’: Large sizes, mazes, representational shapes T. baccata ‘Fastigiata’: Large sizes, columns, obelisks, spirals T. baccata: Ultra-large sizes, high mazes, representational shapes, anything at all “I have also used Taxus x media ‘Hillii’ to establish low-growing parterre topiary due to its compact and dense qualities,” shares Horticultural Consultant Roy Nicol. 2) Thuja (Arborvitae) Thuja (or Arborvita, incorrectly called ‘Cedar’) varieties fully deserve their lofty ranking because they are ready-made topiaries direct from Mother Nature’s nursery. Decide on the shape(s) you want, choose the appropriate Thuja cultivar(s), and…grab a drink and lie back – it’ll work out by itself. Though – of course – it won’t quite pan out that way, there’s more than a grain of truth to the exaggeration. Particular Thuja grow so naturally into particular shapes that all you need to do is help them along without much planning or clipping – just ideal for the ‘One-Minute Gardener.’ Thuja varieties also possess all the other essentials that make a plant an excellent medium for topiary, from being evergreen to so cold-hardy that some are good for growing in Siberia! Many Thuja Varieties are Perfect for Spirals and Columns Because of the extraordinary abundance of Thuja varieties that are great for topiary, we list each one’s name along with only one shape. Obviously, a variety that is perfect for one shape will also be very good for closely-related forms so we mention one alternate in parens for each variety. It must be mentioned that it would not be reasonable if one were to try to work a Thuja variety into a shape that is in strong conflict with its natural form and habit as this would be working against Nature. Finally, bear in mind that it’s not only about shapes – if one Thuja variety has stunning lime-green foliage, another has equally stunning golden foliage, and yet others will turn flaming orange or bronze-purple in autumn. All the following are T. occidentalis or T. plicata varieties. Each are best for: ‘Danica’: Very small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Amber Glow’: Very small sizes, ovoids (and spheres) ‘Tater Tot’: Very small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’: Small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Stoneham Gold’: Medium sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Smaragd’: Medium sizes, spires (and spirals) ‘Rheingold’: Medium sizes, ovoids (and boxes) ‘North Pole’: Medium sizes, spires (and columns) ‘Fluffy’: Medium sizes, cones (and pyramids) ‘Janed Gold’: Large sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Polar Gold’: Large sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Degroot’s Spire’: Very large sizes, spires (and spirals) T. occidentalis: Very large sizes, spires (and columns) ‘Irish Gold’: Very large sizes, cones (and pyramids) T. plicata: Ultra-large sizes, narrow pyramids (and columns) ‘Aurea’: Ultra-large sizes, cones (and cylinders) ‘Green Giant’: Ultra-large sizes, cones (and pyramids) 3) Privet (Ligustrum) Privet is virtually synonymous with hedging in view of the ubiquity of privet hedges and because – rightly or wrongly – it is the default choice for hedging and, consequently, simple topiary shapes. Privets are varieties of the Ligustrum genus. Where topiary is concerned one may divide Privets into three broad categories: L. ovalifolium and its cultivars, L. japonicum and its cultivars, and the rest and remainder. The main difference is that L. japonicum and its cultivars have stiff, ‘springy’ branches compared to L. ovalifolium and its cultivars, and the former’s leaves are rounded, waxy and wavy compared to the more ‘normal’ leaves of L. ovalifolium and cultivars. L. ovalifolium varieties have a moderate growth rate while L. japonicum varieties grow more slowly. A Privet Lion at Rhode Island’s Topiary Gardens Both species and their respective cultivars are as tough as nails, and tolerate both, adverse soil conditions and heavy pruning and trimming. Most of them are just hardy enough for almost the entire UK at hardiness H5. Ligustrum varieties offer just about the widest choice in foliage type and foliage colouration among topiary plants. They are most suitable for hedging, hexahedrons, cubes, and also curved shapes. Finally, one of the best privets for intricate topiary comes from the ‘rest and remainder’ of Ligustrum species. This is slow-growing L. delavayanum which is a top choice for representational topiary. Best for: L. japonicum ‘Rotundifolium’: Small sizes, upright ovoids, elongated shapes L. ovalifolium: Medium sizes, hexahedral shapes, cubes, curved shapes L. japonicum: Medium sizes, hexahedral shapes, cubes, curved shapes L. delavayanum: representational topiary For out of the ordinary ‘coloured’ topiary, consider these colourful varieties: L. ovalifolium ‘Aureum’ L. ovalifolium ‘Argenteum’ L. japonicum ‘Variegatum’ L. ibota ‘Musli’ L. undulatum ‘Lemon and Lime Clippers’ 4) ‘Japanese Hollies’ (Ilex crenata) Ilex crenata cultivars vary quite widely in height and spread, and even in habit and form, but before we get to those, let’s look at what they have in common. To begin with, they possess all the desirable qualities of a topiary medium and are super-hardy, being good down to H6. A few I. crenata cultivars are becoming the go-to alternatives to Box Wood, especially for shaped hedging. Japanese Hollies are sometimes attacked by aphids and scale but, unlike the ravages being wreaked on Box Wood, such as blight and box tree moth caterpillar, these plants’ infestations are episodic. Japanese Holly Topiary, Japanese Style! I. crenata typically reaches about 4m with a spread of about 1m while cultivar ‘Convexa’ grows to about 2m with a spread of about one. In between, rising to about three metres is cultivar ‘Fastigiata’ with its name indicating its fastigiate habit. All three have tiny, glossy leaves, which is another tick mark for a topiary plant. All three varieties can bear small white flowers in the summer and black berries in autumn but the topiarist will not be interested in blooms and berries interfering with his geometric shapes. Best for: I. crenata: Large sizes, mazes, tall hedging, geometrical shapes ‘Fastigiata’: Medium sizes, columns, cylinders, obelisks ‘Convexa’: Small sizes, low hedging, boxes, curved shapes “Ilex crenata is a difficult plant to grow well as it demands exacting growing conditions,” says Roy. “For this reason, I recommend it is used by experienced gardeners who can provide these conditions.” 5) Honeysuckle (Lonicera) Lonicera ligustrina var. pileata or Box-Leaved Honeysuckle and Lonicera ligustrina var. yunnanensis or Wilson’s Honeysuckle are ideally suited to topiary. And so much so that perhaps these excellent sculpting plants should rank higher but they are simply not as tried and tested as those ranked above them. All the attributes necessary for a first-class topiary plant are found in spades in these two Lonicera varieties, and they are also fully hardy – Zone H6. They are also tough plants that are tolerant of severe clipping. All this means that you can get ambitious with Lonicera Honeysuckle. Box-Leaved Honeysuckle will Bear Flowers and Berries if you’re not Careful! L. ligustrina var. yunnanensis typically reaches dimensions of 3.5m by 3m while L. ligustrina var. pileata is more compact and more ‘horizontal’ at about 0.75m by 2m. Topiarists may or may not want the added colour of the small summer flowers and autumn berries but the bright green foliage is something they will go for. If one side or end of a topiary Lonicera is not severely trimmed, it will produce flowers. Best for: Medium sizes, intricate shapes, representational forms. 6) Alberta Spruces (Picea glauca) Alberta Spruces, varieties of Picea glauca, are probably the up-and-comers in the Topiary Sweepstakes. As Northern Spruces they are super-hardy. The two cultivars that we recommend are P. glauca var. albertiana ‘Conica’ and P. glauca var. albertiana ‘Alberta Globe’. Both have stiff, needle-like foliage that grows very densely and rather slowly, and they bring that bonus typical of many spruces: invigoratingly fresh-scented foliage. What these two cultivars markedly differ in are their respective sizes and natural shapes. Alberta Spruces are Perfect for these Kinds of Topiaries ‘Conica’ typically attains a height of 2-plus metres and a spread of about one, and makes a natural – surprise! – conical form. ‘Alberta Globe’ grows to a little under 1m in diameter – and we hardly need to spell out its natural shape. If you’re going for cones and spheres, you will not need to exert yourself much with these choices. Look for other Picea varieties that make good topiary media. You can be one of the early adopters of P. glauca ‘Echiniformis’, P. glauca ‘Arneson’s Blue Variegated’, and P. pungens (Glauca Group) ‘Koster’. Best for: ‘Conica’: Medium sizes, cones, pyramids, spirals ‘Alberta Globe’: Small sizes, balls, ovoids, curved shapes 7) Wall Germander (Teucrium) Fully hardy Wall Germander, Teucrium chamaedrys, should not be confused with tender Bush Germander which is a top choice for good-sized topiary ‘statutory’ projects. Unfortunately, it is hardy only to Zone H3 whereas Wall Germander is hardy to H6. This doesn’t mean that the latter should be perceived as a ‘lesser Germander’ for it has its own forte, as does close relative Teucrium × lucidrys or Hybrid Germander which is hardy to Zone H4. A parterre de broderie in a French garden They have a particularly dense bushy habit and this attribute combined with the small leaves and their rich deep hue make them great topiary plants. Both plants emit a pleasant crisp aroma, especially when brushed against, adding to their happy attributes. They grow to only about 30cm and have a similar spread, making them ideal for low designs, including knot gardens, which feature low-slung but long, interwoven, abstract patterns. Best for: Small sizes, low intricate designs, serpentine shapes, knot gardens 8) Box Wood (Buxus) Trusty old Box Wood, this usually being Buxus sempervirens, Buxus microphylla, or one or another of their various cultivars, closes our list just outside the Super Seven. Box Wood would have ranked, and high at that, but over the past several years box blight and box tree caterpillar have been on a cross-country rampage, laying waste to Box in ever-increasing regions in the UK. Therefore, even though Box Wood is one of the most tried and true topiary media, it is probably not a very good choice to begin a new topiary project because, like as not, you’ll be waging a virtually unwinnable, never-ending battle with box blight, box tree caterpillar, or both. Is the Sun Setting for Good on Box Wood? In addition, Box varieties are increasingly being affected by other pests and diseases such as Fluted Scale and Volutella blight. Caveats done, as the long-term traditional automatic pick for hedging and medium-sized topiary as well as being a great option for beginners, Box deserves to be listed with an honourable mention. Best for: Medium sizes, balls, cubes and representational shapes. References 1. The History of Topiary. (n.d.). Grimsthorpe Castle, Park and Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.grimsthorpe.co.uk/the-history-of-topiary/ 2. History: It All Began with the Romans. . . (n.d.). Center for Architecture. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.centerforarchitecture.org/digital-exhibitions/article/topiary-tango/history-it-all-began-with-the-romans/ 3. The history of topiary. (n.d.). Agrumi: Bespoke Topiary Plant Sculptures. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://topiaryart.co.uk/the-history-of-topiary/ 4. Moss, S. (2018, December). Cultivating curiosities: plants as collections in the 18th century. University of York. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/24026/1/Cultivating%20Curiosities%20-%20Suzanne%20Moss%20PhD%20thesis%20FINAL%20v2.pdf
Learn more
