Growing
Pruning Won't Benefit Juniper Directly - But It Can Help Maintain Its Shape Or Training
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Prune Juniper? When To Prune Juniper Avoid Cutting Away Too Much Growth Juniper can be a dependable choice for many UK gardens and there are a plethora of options when it comes to size, shape and form. There are junipers to grow as trees, some that can remain taller shrubs and others with prostrate form. Junipers are generally low-maintenance plants when placed in the right location. And even when it comes to maintenance jobs like pruning, less is more. Do You Need To Prune Juniper? There is debate as to whether or not this is a job that we need to undertake at all. In many cases, pruning is important because it helps the plants that we grow by keeping them in optimal health. However, with juniper, pruning will not benefit the plant itself. These are shrubs or trees that naturally form a well-shaped framework of branches and they do not need pruning to grow well. What’s more, they grow slowly, so pruning can set them back unnecessarily. That said, while we do not need to prune juniper, sometimes we may choose to do so to maintain a certain shape, train it into topiary forms or for aesthetic reasons. When To Prune Juniper If you do decide to prune a juniper, the best time to do so is in the early spring, after the coldest weather and before tender new growth emerges. Remember, pruning is typically not needed at all, but when you do wish to prune for aesthetic reasons, this is typically the time at which it will have the least impact on your plant. Avoid Cutting Away Too Much Growth If you do decide to prune juniper because you are shaping some topiary or wish to keep your juniper in check, the process is simple. Be circumspect and keep in mind that the fewer cuts you make, the better. The key thing to remember when pruning juniper is that new growth will not emerge from older wood where there are no needles at all, so do not prune back beyond the point where needles form on the green tips of branches unless you are removing an entire branch. You can remove entire branches for aesthetic effect and should also remove any dead or damaged branches which have no needles on at all, since, as mentioned above, these will not produce new growth. Use a pair of secateurs to remove individual portions of the juniper, rather than giving it an all-over shearing. Don’t take too much from the plant and never prune out more than a quarter in a given year or it will not recover. Remember, junipers are shapely and slow-growing, so even when you do decide to prune and form a juniper into a specific shape, you should be very careful about where you cut and how much material you take.
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Keep Plumeria ‘Frangipani’ Houseplants Happy With These Growing Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Plumeria Frangipani Care References Plumeria, also known as ‘Frangipani’, is a fragrant, tropical plant that can also be grown in our temperate climate as a houseplant. While these plants can sometimes be placed outdoors in the summer months, they are most commonly grown as houseplants and kept indoors year-round. They make excellent conservatory or greenhouse plants and can also potentially be grown in a bright spot elsewhere inside your home. Overview Botanical Name Plumeria Common Name(s) Frangipani Plant Type Shrub or tree, mainly grown as a houseplant Native Area Neotropics Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Deciduous or evergreen Flowers Exotic blooms in a range of shades When To Plant Year-round Frangipani belongs to a genus of flowering plants in the Apocynaceae plant family.1 Most are shrubs or small trees endemic to the Neotropics of Mexico, Central and South America.2 They are also grown widely as ornamentals in tropical regions around the globe and there are nineteen accepted species within this genus, according to Kew.3 The appearance of the foliage and the flowers depends on which species and which particular cultivar is grown. However, one defining characteristic of this genus is that the flowers are strongly scented, especially at night. When choosing a frangipani, you will need to select a plant to purchase. Since these plants can take a long time to flower, you should generally aim to purchase as large a plant as you can – in order to enjoy their impact more quickly. Of course, the form and flowers of these plants can vary greatly. Common Varieties Many of the varieties grown in the UK belong to the species Plumeria rubra, though sometimes, other species are grown. P. rubra is a deciduous type of frangipani. There are also evergreen types, including P. obtusa ‘Singapore White’ and P. pudica ‘Bridal Bouquet’. P. pudica ‘Bridal Bouquet’ Common and highly regarded options to grow as houseplants in the UK include: P. rubra ‘Aztec Gold’ P. ‘Black Widow’ There are also plenty of other interesting cultivars to consider which have different coloured flowers or different foliage. How To Grow Plumeria Like other tropical houseplants, Plumeria can take some effort to grow. It is also important that you choose a suitable location in which to grow it. However, if the right environmental conditions are provided, this is a plant that can grow successfully indoors over a number of years. Winter care can be especially important. Plumeria can be planted up into pots or planted into the ground in a greenhouse border as long as that greenhouse remains warm enough throughout the year. Frangipani should be placed in a bright location throughout the growing season, with temperatures that remain consistently above 15°C during the winter months, as at temperatures any colder than this, the growing tips can rot. Soil Requirements In containers, these plants should be provided with good quality, free-draining potting mix, such as John Innes no. 2, with some sharp sand or grit added to improve the drainage. Every second year, the plants should be repotted and moved into a slightly larger container. In alternate years when not repotting, the top 5cm of the growing medium should be removed and replaced with fresh compost. Growing From Seed Some Plumeria blossoms are infertile, so this is not typically a plant that is propagated by seed. However, where seeds do develop, these can be sown in spring or summer and then covered over lightly. They will need temperatures of 20-24°C for successful germination. Frangipani Care Keeping frangipani happy as a houseplant means understanding the care that they require and, crucially, how that care differs from one part of the year to another. “I have grown Frangipani in an unheated conservatory, being careful to move it into a bright spot in the house from November to March,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. ‘It can struggle with the change of light levels but recovers once back in the conservatory – on warmer winter days I will move it back into the conservatory to benefit from the light and then back inside as temperatures drop.” Watering Over the active growing season between spring and autumn, you should water freely when the Plumeria is dry. However, take care not to overwater and ensure that excess water can drain away freely. In winter, frangipani should be kept very dry. In the coldest months, these houseplants should not be watered at all and should be treated in much the same way as cacti are over the winter months. You should only start watering again from around the middle of March. Feeding Between April and the end of August, it is good practice to feed frangipani every couple of weeks with a balanced organic liquid feed, such as compost tea. However, make sure that you do not feed these plants over the winter and leave it at least 5-6 weeks before you feed them again after repotting. Pruning It is best to avoid pruning Plumeria, as the wood is very soft and rot can set in easily. If you absolutely must cut back some growth, then do this in early spring, towards the tail end of the dormant period before the plant returns to active growth. Cut back the growth that must be removed to where the next shoot or branch joins. Generally, if plants are overgrown, they should be replaced, as they will not respond well to renovation pruning. Propagating Frangipani can be propagated by means of cuttings, which are best taken in February or March. Cuttings around 10-15cm long should be taken from shoot tips. These cuttings should then be left in a warm, dry spot for a couple of days for the ends to callus over. Once the callus has formed over the cut end, the cuttings should be inserted into a free-draining compost mix and put into a propagator with bottom heat. Keep the cuttings fairly dry, as excessive wet can cause them to rot. In ideal conditions, the cuttings should root within 4-6 weeks. Common Problems Most of the problems encountered when growing Plumeria relate to environmental conditions. For example, there may be problems if there is not enough light, temperatures drop too low, the conditions are too wet or too dry, or drainage is not sufficient. Red spider mites may also occasionally become problematic when growing this plant under glass. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.). Plumeria rubra. Oxford University Plants 400: Retrieved June 14, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/op/Plumeria 2. Tiernan, N. (2021, May 18). Taxonomy and Systematics of Plumeria L. (Apocynaceae) in the Caribbean Islands. FIU Digital Commons. Retrieved June 14, 2023, from https://digitalcommons.fiu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=6155&context=etd 3. Plumeria Tourn. ex L. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001863-2
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5 Apple Tree Training Methods With Advice From Sheffield Fruit Trees Members
IN THIS GUIDE Training & Support For Standard Apple Trees 1) The Espaliered Form 2) Pleached Apple Tree Support 3) Fan Training Your Trees 4) Cordon Apple Trees 5) The Step-Over Form Apple trees are one of the best and most common fruits to grow in UK gardens. Versatile and resilient, they can find a place in many gardens. If you are considering growing an apple tree where you live, one important thing to consider is what shape you would like your tree to take. Apple trees can be grown as standard trees and are commonly grafted onto different-sized rootstocks that determine their size and vigour. You can choose to grow a taller apple tree or one grafted to a dwarfing or semi-dwarfing rootstock that will end up smaller in size. As well as growing apple trees as standard-form trees, it is also possible to train apple trees into different forms. Apple trees lend themselves to cultivation even in smaller spaces because they can be trained to grow into space-saving and much more compact forms than those into which they would naturally grow. “Do some initial pruning over the first few years, to shape your tree to a desired shape,” says Julie Bellemann from Sheffield Fruit Trees. “If you do this in the early years, it will be easier to prune once it is more established. “If you have very little space, look into ways you can train your trees. Against a wall, fence or in a large pot are the best options.” When it comes to the training and support of apple trees, there are, in fact, 5 main options: An espaliered form. A pleached tree. A fan-trained apple tree. Along a cordon. In a step-over form. Read on for a little more information about each of the different growing forms. Training & Support For Standard Apple Trees If you are letting an apple tree grow in its naturalistic form, you will not need to worry a huge amount about training and support for your tree. However, it is often a good idea to add a stake when initially planting your apple tree. This will not typically be necessary if you are planting a smaller tree but can be beneficial if you are planting a taller variety that is more top-heavy. Depending on the specific situation and tree, single staking, double staking or angled staking may be useful where required. 1) The Espaliered Form When it comes to shaped forms for apple trees, the espalier is one option to consider. Espaliered trees are trained and supported against a flat surface with a central trunk and several series of horizontal branches spreading out to both sides. Espaliered trees are generally trained to grow along horizontal wires affixed to a wall or fence. “I find espalier trained apples to offer the best option for a small garden, producing a good crop once established in a small pace,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are also a great option for allotments or kitchen gardens, allowing them to be trained against walls or fences and freeing up space for other crops. They also look great!” These should be spaced around 35-45cm apart and the lowest one should be 40cm above ground level. A single-stemmed tree or partially pre-trained espaliered apple tree is then placed and tied into the supports. Side stems are tied down to the horizontal support wires as they grow and all unwanted shoots are pruned back to just 2-3 leaves. 2) Pleached Apple Tree Support Pleached apple trees are trained to have a long bare stem at the base, with branches spread out horizontally on either side of a central leader above a certain height. This is a variation on the idea of an espaliered apple tree, but the space below allows light to come through, while perhaps enhancing the privacy in a particular part of a garden. These are trained in much the same way as an espaliered apple tree, but, of course, a longer bare trunk at the base is maintained. These are often purchased as fairly mature apple trees that have already been trained to give a near-instant impact. 3) Fan Training Your Trees Fan-trained apple trees have a short trunk and a series of branches that radiate out like a fan above the said trunk. This shape is often used up against a wall or fence in a garden to make the most of the space available. Apple trees are best fan-trained in late winter or early spring before their buds open. For fan training, apple trees with semi-dwarfing rootstocks are best. Again, fans are trained to a series of horizontal wires on a wall or fence, though in this case, the wires should be around 15cm apart. The initial training involves a specific series of steps involving tying in and pruning, which all depend on whether you are starting with a one or two-year-old tree. Apple fans are pruned in late summer, unlike most apples which are pruned in the winter months. This deters the re-growth of unwanted stems and encourages the formation of fruit buds. The aim is to develop a system of short-fruiting spurs on a well-established framework of branches through pruning. 4) Cordon Apple Trees Another option is to train apple trees into single tall and narrow vertical cordons. Training an apple tree as a cordon involves allowing a single main growing stem to grow, with short fruiting spurs to either side. Cordon apples are often grown on a wall, fence or other support structure at a 45° angle, though they can also be grown vertically or trained to meet and form an archway or tunnel over a pathway, which can make an extremely ornamental feature for a garden. Cordon apples can be trained from scratch or purchased pre-trained. “Think about the size of your garden and how big you can let your tree grow,” explains Julie. “Trees on vigorous rootstocks can easily grow 4-6 metres tall and wide, but by choosing more dwarfing stocks you can control this height and keep it smaller, perhaps by growing it along cordons.” A dwarfing rootstock on a spur-bearing is typically used when apple trees will be trained in this way. These trees will need permanent support and must be pruned carefully and correctly to maintain their shape and size. The idea is to have a single main growing stem with short fruiting spurs along the sides, allowing the apple tree to retain a very compact and space-saving form. 5) The Step-Over Form One final option is to train apple trees into a step-over form so that they form low hedging or bed edging that is only around 45-60cm in height. This form is like the lowest tier of an espaliered apple tree, without any of the higher horizontal branches. It will look great around the edges of a vegetable patch or cut flower beds in many gardens. A low support structure is created and branches are trained out sideways from a short vertical stem along wires suspended a short distance above the ground. Any growth trying to grow higher should be curtailed to keep everything growing low to the ground. Understanding the different ways in which apple trees can be trained and supported as well as the different options that are on offer should make it clear just how versatile these trees can be and how space might be found for an apple tree of some kind in almost every garden.
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How To Stake A Leaning Or Newly-Planted Tree With Tips From Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE The Do’s And Don’ts Staking A Tree That Is Already Leaning Staking A Newly-Planted Tree Staking Aftercare References There are lots of reasons why you should stake a tree. If a young tree is developing a lean, it is wise to stake it after straightening it as much as possible. If a young tree is sited in a windy, blustery spot and is swaying a little too much, the young roots could be torn. Alternatively, if a sapling is planted in an exposed location, you may stake it just in case it needs additional support. If a young tree is sited on a slope, is rooted in loose soil or in a growing medium that is often wet, there is a good chance that it will develop a lean and should be preemptively staked. The climate should also be considered, as heavy rains or snow can cause young trees to grow awry. Any of these risk factors are good reasons to stake a tree, so we explain how to below. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Gloves, stakes, ties, a mallet, rope, hosepipe, tarp or burlap, guy lines When To Stake Spring (or when necessary) The Do’s And Don’ts There is no single correct way to stake a tree, as a few different techniques can be employed and the equipment used often also differs. However, there are a few things you should definitely try to avoid: Do not put synthetic material, cords or ropes in direct contact with the trunk for an extended length of time. Do not put hard or abrasive material, synthetic or natural, in direct contact with the trunk for an extended length of time. Do not stake the tree so as to make it totally rigid. Do not drive stakes into the ground close to the tree without evaluating or knowing the extent of the root system. Do not neglect to check for slippage of the padding or over-tightness of the ties due to growth. And, after the ‘Don’ts’ a ‘Do’: Do make sure you check thoroughly for underground services first. This may involve consulting relevant authorities and plans of properties.1 Different techniques naturally involve variables. These variables include the number and length of the stakes, whether you use commercial ties or straps, the positions of the stakes and the placements of the ties. Different factors may suggest you opt for different techniques or make suitable modifications. Finally, a word about tree lean and wind direction is in order. Do not try to draw an inference as to the direction of the wind from the direction of the tree’s lean. Trees do not always develop a lean in the direction of strong or prevailing winds. Underneath we outline one method that should stand you in good stead for staking an already leaning tree. Staking A Tree That Is Already Leaning If the tree you want to stake has a spreading, well-developed root system or if it is growing in hard or stony ground, it will be very difficult to straighten it to any appreciable degree, if at all. On the other hand, if a tree has a big canopy, a poorly-developed root system and is growing in sandy ground, any attempt to straighten it could partially uproot it or even topple it. If the two deterrent factors outlined above do not apply, you can attempt to straighten the tree. Attempts should only be made on relatively small or young trees. 1) Water The Ground Well If the tree is rooted in normal ground, then the evening before you intend to straighten the tree and again early the next morning, soak the ground. Loosening the soil in this way will ease the subsoil movement of the tree and will also reduce the likelihood of the roots tearing. On the other hand, if the tree is rooted in loose earth or damp ground, this step should be skipped. The idea is that the primary roots should not be totally locked underground. 2) Secure The Tree If you have any doubts as to the stability of the tree, play it safe and secure the tree with two guy lines that are anchored to a strong architectural artefact. A pillar, beam or boundary could work or you could opt for a couple of army tent pegs driven into the ground. These guy lines should be at right angles to the direction the tree is leaning in. 3) Pull & Push On The Trunk Pull and push the tree, exerting firm and steady pressure, without any sudden jerking, to straighten it. While the tree can be pushed with gloved hands, it will be easier to pull it with a rope, though the rope should not go directly around the trunk. If you can get hold of a small canvas tarp, fold it and run ropes through the reinforced eyes to make an excellent means by which to pull the tree. Things will be easier if you use a winch, though you’ll need to anchor it first. Pressure should not be exerted more than halfway up the incipient trunk as that will cause it to bow and possibly even break. Pressure should be exerted at a point around one-third of the height of the tree’s trunk, even though that will require more effort than it will if pulling from points further up the tree. 4) Know When To Stop No matter how you proceed, keep your ears open for any disturbing tearing or cracking sounds which, should they occur, are alarm signals that should prompt you to go easy or stop altogether. If the tree has only a slight lean, you may well be able to make it completely straight, but this should not be your do-or-die aim. If the tree has a significant lean, reducing it should be your realistic aim. Stop when you achieve this. Proceed to the following section, which has one conditional instruction related to a tree that is already leaning. Staking A Newly-Planted Tree 1) Procure The Stakes & Mallet Buy stakes and a mallet if you don’t have one. A tent mallet will be fine, but don’t use one that is made for games! Buy hardwood or metal stakes. For length, aim for between half of the height of the tree, plus about 50cm to be driven into the ground. They should be a minimum of 5cm thick: ideally nearer double this thickness I suggest that you file a shallow groove around each stake at the level where the ties or ropes will go to guard against slippage. If you do so, position them so that they are at about the halfway point of the part of the stake that will project above the ground. 2) Choose Your Ties Though you can make your own tree ties with canvas, burlap, hosepipe, inner tubes, strapping, rope, backpack strap buckles and such, I’d recommend that you use quality commercial tree ties. Usually, tree ties are designed in the form of cinches that are meant to double back on themselves to form an ‘8’ shape. They usually have a spacer to prevent tree-to-stake rubbing. They also have built-in sprockets or buckles. Commercial ties are used to fasten a sapling to a single vertically-driven stake at the time of planting. However, they can very well be used with angularly-driven stakes meant to support or straighten a newly-planted tree. We suggest that you buy the longest length available unless you intend to stake and tie a sapling at the time of planting. If you want to stake a sapling, short ties can be used and the stake can be driven in quite close to the sapling, which can be planted after the stake is driven in. If commercial ties of a sufficiently long length are not available for your needs or if you prefer to make your own you can do so. Fasten 2-3 layered straps of thick canvas, burlap or horti-fleece to the centre of a length of rope, then pass the rope through a piece of rubber hosepipe. Alternatively, you can thread the rope through the reinforced eyes of a small tarp that has been folded appropriately. Only that part of the rope that will go around the trunk needs to be padded with canvas. Either way, tree ties should be broad, adjustable and flexible, and the part that touches the trunk should be non-abrasive. 3) Determine The Root Spread As a general rule, the nearer the stakes are to the tree, the better. Positioning them close to the tree is not always possible, especially as they need to be driven into the ground at an inward angle, which is right where the roots are. For staking a tree at the time of planting, insert the stake before back-filling soil around the tree, so that you can see the root system. If you have recently planted the tree you want to stake, you should have a very good idea as to where its root system lies. Otherwise, evaluate the extent of the root system before choosing the distance from the trunk at which to drive in stakes. You could scrape away the soil, starting from a little beyond the canopy’s drip line and working your way inward, digging deeper as necessary. If you opt for this method, once you have completed your evaluation, you will need to backfill and pack in the soil. An easier way to determine the staking positions is to use the canopy’s drip line as a guide. For a young tree, a good distance at which to drive in the stakes is just a little outside the drip line. Even if there are any roots at this distance, they will be deeper underground and any damage done to 1-2 outer tertiary feeder roots will have no or negligible impact. For an already leaning tree, position one stake on the side of the lean and the other on the opposite side, regardless of other factors. For a newly-planted tree, fasten one stake to the windward side if there is one, and the other one on the opposite side. With the correct angle and direction, the stake should still pass within 15cm of the trunk, at a point a third of the way up the trunk. 4) Drive The Stake Into The Ground The top of the stake should face into the prevailing wind. For a site without obvious shelter, and in a flat landscape, this will usually mean the top of the stake faces the south-west, in the UK. If there are other obvious wind-funnelling effects, such as between two buildings, place the stake on the upwind side, so the stake reduces the amount the tree can flex downwind. For an already leaning tree, place the stake on the side away from the lean. It will need to pass the trunk closely enough to be secured, which will usually be within 15cm – or closer for some ties. However, it must not touch the tree directly. Drive a stake inward so that it goes into the ground at a 45° angle. Stakes should be driven 50-70cm deep, so, if you use a 2m stake, you will have 1.3-1.5m in length left above ground. Make sure that the stake is set very firmly. It would be a good idea to fill in any gaps and tightly pack in the soil around each stake, tamping it in with a spade. 5) Attach The Tie(s) If the tree is already leaning, tie the tie gently, so that only minimal pressure is exerted on the tree. This can be periodically tightened to straighten the tree, or the stake can be repositioned later. However, ensure that it does not have any strong pulling action that appreciably bends or bows the trunk. Whether or not the tree is leaning, the tie should be positioned around one-third of the way up the trunk. This should not be within 10cm of the top of the stake and ideally is nearer the middle of the stake. If using a commercial-style tie, pull back the tie and loop it in through the insertion slot. There is usually a spacer that should go between the tree and the stake. Tighten it to the desired degree with the buckle or by pulling it to the appropriate sprocket. If you have made your own ties, secure the ropes to the stake at the grooves. Be sure to use a reliable knot; a rolling hitch will serve the purpose well.2 Tie the knot around the stake and not the tree. Ideally, a figure-of-eight shape looping the two together will prevent any rubbing between the tree and the stake. Using a figure-of-eight shape also means that a little slack can be included in the loop around the tree, allowing for growth. Staking Aftercare Water the tree after putting it through the stress of staking it. Initially, for the first couple of months, check the tree very frequently for any ill effects that may have been caused by the staking. Examine the bark where the ties contact it for any abrasion or wound and pay attention to the foliage for warning signs. Thereafter, all you need to do is check the ties every 1-2 months for over-tightness and tension which will be an outcome of the growth of the tree and the increasing girth of the trunk. Slightly loosen the ties as and when needed to maintain the same constant tightness and tension. If straightening a leaning tree, gradually tighten the ties over the course of a year. Then, as the tree grows, they can be gradually loosened. Stakes may be removed after a couple of years, but with regular inspection, can be left in place for longer on exposed sites. “Staking is only part of the solution for dealing with a leaning tree and pruning is the other important jigsaw piece,” explains Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Pruning is generally best carried out in the dormant season for deciduous plants, and in the summer on evergreens. Heavy branches that are pulling a tree in one direction can be pruned, removing up to a third of the growth. “Sometimes trees will visibly spring back a little. “Choose buds which point in the opposite direction to the lean and make cuts just above these, as this will usually encourage the tree to grow in a way that corrects the lean.” References 1. Tracing and Avoiding Underground Services, Domestic Properties. (n.d.). JW Clark Ltd. Retrieved December 4, 2023, from https://www.jwclarkltd.co.uk/how-to-guides/tracing-and-avoiding-underground-services-domestic-properties/ 2. Rolling Hitch – How to tie a Rolling Hitch. (n.d.). NewKnots.com. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/rolling-hitch
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Watering Olive Plants Well Can Increase Your Chances Of Fruit - These Are The Basics
IN THIS GUIDE How Much Water Do Olive Trees Need? How To Know When Olive Trees Need Watering How To Water Correctly Olive trees are appealing to British gardeners because they are one of a small number of evergreen trees that can potentially produce a yield. Even though getting olive trees to fruit in the UK is easier said than done, it is possible. Getting things right when it comes to watering and other care will greatly increase the chances that an olive tree might fruit, even here in the British Isles. Here are the basic things you need to know: How much water an olive tree requires depends on where it is growing and the environmental conditions. Those growing in containers will typically need to be watered more frequently than those in the ground. Consistent moisture is required for good performance and for any chance of your tree fruiting in the UK. Olive trees will need more water in summer and less over the coldest part of the year. Water olive trees when the top few centimetres of the growing medium have dried out. Ensure that there is excellent drainage and that excess water can always drain away freely. We explain all of this in great detail below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Watering can or hose pipe When To Water During the growing season when the soil or growing medium is dry How Much Water Do Olive Trees Need? Olive trees are a drought-tolerant species, capable of coping with fairly prolonged periods of water shortage in their native range. However, in the UK, especially if you want your tree to fruit, it is important to provide olive trees with consistent moisture during the growing season. “So many people neglect to water their olive tree in the first season in the ground,” shares Paul & Antonia Smith, Owners of The Norfolk Olive Tree Company. “This is absolutely essential for them whilst they are establishing roots.” It is also important to remember that these trees require free-draining conditions, so while they should be watered well and deeply, they should never be allowed to sit in saturated conditions. Good drainage is vitally important when growing an olive tree, whether you are growing it in the ground or, as is common in the UK, in a container. It is important to make sure that you not only have good drainage in the planting position for an olive tree but also that you provide the correct amount of water for your olive tree. Unfortunately, there is no precise figure that can be given when it comes to how much water an olive tree will need. This is because the climate, microclimate, soil or growing medium, and a whole raft of environmental factors determine in a given situation how much water an olive tree will need. Of course, water needs differ depending on whether plants are grown in a container or in the ground and they also vary throughout the course of the year. “As general guidance, the Arboricultural Association recommends that newly planted trees are given 50 litres of water per week in the summer months,” Gardening expert Dan Ori shares. “Based on my experience, this sounds about right for an olive tree over 2m high. If you are trying to visualise what 50 litres looks like, it is 3-6 watering cans depending on the size of the can.” With all of this in mind, how can we tell when our olive trees should be watered? How To Know When Olive Trees Need Watering “The most important factor in their cultivation is watering,” says Paul & Antonia. “So many people assume that as it is a Mediterranean species, it won’t need water, which is completely wrong, especially if it’s in a pot. “Soak it once or twice a week and do not let the soil dry out. Leaf curl is a sign of dehydration.” Another way to tell when it is time to water an olive tree is to look at the soil or growing medium around the tree in question. As a general rule of thumb, wait until the top few centimetres of soil or the growing medium in a container is dry before watering. You can examine and feel the growing medium with your hands to determine whether it’s dry. How To Water Correctly Whenever it is time to water an olive tree, the key is to water it well to make sure that the whole area around the roots receives water. When the olive tree is growing in a pot, this means making sure that the water goes through the entirety of the growing medium and flows out of the holes at the base of the container. Water deeply, making sure that the water is directed to where it is needed by the roots of your olive tree. Always ensure that the water has somewhere to go and that there is excellent drainage because if water sticks around and waterlogged conditions develop, this can damage your tree. Watering well and letting the growing medium dry out moderately but not entirely between waterings is the key to growing an olive tree successfully in Britain.
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Don't Grow Olive Trees In Pots Without Following These 9 Tips From Experts
IN THIS GUIDE 1) UK-Grown Olive Trees Are Best In Pots 2) Base Your Container Size On Maturity 3) Natural Stone Or Terracotta Work Best 4) Avoid Manure And Water-Retentive Compost 5) Always Position Potted Olives In Full Sun 6) Choose Compact Varieties With A Vertical Form 7) Pot Them On Every Few Years 8) Only Ever Plant One Per Pot 9) Water, Feed & Prune Regularly An olive tree will bring an unmistakable touch of the Mediterranean to your British garden with its textured bark, silvery-green foliage and well-branched habit. Olea europaea is rightfully recognised as being among the toughest trees and can withstand harsh weather conditions in the UK. However, in order to produce fruit, these trees need care and nurturing in any location and this is all the more necessary when they are grown in climatic zones that are very different from those of their native regions. So, if you are thinking about growing an olive tree for the fruit, keep in mind that it may rarely crop in northern parts of the UK. However – there is no harm in trying – and with a combination of diligence and luck, someday you just might see olives on your container-grown tree! Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Large pot, suitable loam-based potting mix, seaweed-based fertiliser, small olive tree 1) UK-Grown Olive Trees Are Best In Pots Not only can you grow olives in pots, but it is also the only way they should be grown in heavy soils and northern regions of the UK. Olive trees are slow-growing and relatively small, and, with relatively few demands on the soil, are among the most suitable trees for growing in containers. Though olive trees are sufficiently hardy for most regions of the UK, frost, sleet and snow are very harmful to these evergreen shrubs. These would zap any chances of them bearing fruit and a prolonged hard freeze could very well kill the tree. Olive trees also need to sit in full sun all year round. In many gardens, the area that is soaked in sun in June will be rather different from the area that gets maximum sun in December. For these reasons, a container-grown olive tree is the best option for growing these lovely plants in the UK. 2) Base Your Container Size On Maturity Unless you take the unlikely route of propagating an olive tree from cuttings, you will most likely buy a small tree in a pot. Small young trees are sold in 15L pots, whilst more mature trees are sold in 50L containers. You will, of course, need to pot on your olive tree, at which time you will have to choose a container. The new container should have multiple drainage holes. 3) Natural Stone Or Terracotta Work Best For this statement tree, I’d suggest a decorative container made of natural stone or a special frost-proof terracotta container. Avoid using synthetic-material for your olive tree container. As for the shape, rather than a container of regular dimensions, choose one that is about as wide as it is deep. Be aware that an olive tree will eventually have to be housed in a very large container, around 200L or more. 4) Avoid Manure And Water-Retentive Compost Do not use manure or water-retentive compost for these shrubs, as they do not like constantly moist soil. Instead, fertilise them judiciously. A soil pH between 6.0-7.0 is ideal, but any that is moderately acidic to neutral will be perfectly fine. 5) Always Position Potted Olives In Full Sun No matter what the weather or the season, position the container in full sun. The container should be positioned in a sheltered spot with a southerly aspect. Though this is not strictly necessary during summer, it is imperative during winter and cold weather, especially in the chillier regions of the country. Olive trees should not be exposed to frost, sleet or snow. Should there be an extended hard freeze, wrap the pot with burlap or an old blanket and protect new shoots with horti-fleece. 6) Choose Compact Varieties With A Vertical Form Growing an olive tree in the UK is more of a challenge than growing most other trees, whether they are containerised or in the open ground. If you are successful then you may become the happy owner of a very special heirloom tree that will be passed down from generation to generation. To get off to the best possible start, you will need to choose your variety well. Though you can certainly go with the widely-available species tree, there are four varieties that I feel are especially well-suited for container growing in the UK. These varieties are: O. europaea ‘Arbequina’ Can be kept quite compact, is self-fertile and reliably so. This variety has a very ornamental tree-like form. O. europaea ‘Chemlali’ This variety is considered self-fertile, is relatively hardy and has a vertical habit. It is also a compact choice. O. europaea ‘Fastigiata’ Another compact option, this cultivar is especially cold-hardy and also has a vertical-branching form. In addition to this, it has flowers that are scented. O. europaea ‘Frantoio’ ‘Frantoio’ is especially well-suited for container growing. This variety is small, self-fertile and has a tree-like habit. 7) Pot Them On Every Few Years You will need to pot up these evergreens, but they are slow growing and need to be housed in a pot that is big enough to begin with. Therefore, choose a pot that is two sizes up. A young tree will need to be potted on every 1-2 years, whilst slightly older trees only need repotting every 2-3. Mature trees that are aged between 6-10 should be potted on every 4 years. Even older trees will need to be potted up too, but infrequently. Every spring, check whether the roots are emerging from the drainage holes of the pot. “A good prune to ensure it doesn’t outgrow its pot is essential,” Antonia Smith from The Norfolk Olive Tree Company shares. “An olive tree will happily stay in the same pot if you keep it pruned back in April and October and then top dress it with good quality compost.” 8) Only Ever Plant One Per Pot You can, of course, try to propagate multiple cuttings in one pot if you wish, but even a small, young plant should be in its own pot. 9) Water, Feed & Prune Regularly Olive trees should be watered regularly, more so in summer and during hot weather than in winter. Even though olive trees need to be periodically potted up, a container-bound olive from the age of about 5 years onwards should be judiciously pruned every year or two. To feed, apply a slow-release fertiliser once in mid-spring and once in mid-summer, or apply a nitrogen-oriented fertiliser every 3 weeks from mid-spring to early autumn. “A potted olive tree will thrive providing you feed it regularly from late March to October,” says Antonia. “Seaweed-based feeds, such as tomato fertiliser, are ideal.” I recommend that you dilute the fertiliser to 60-70% of the instructed strength, apply it well away from the crown and water the plant both before and after the application. If you tend to your container-grown olive tree by following these tips, you may well end up with an heirloom tree that you can pass on to future generations!
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Yew Pruning By Type: 'Plants Clipped Very Tightly Tend To Experience More Problems'
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Prune Yew Trees? When To Prune Yew Pruning Yew Hedges Pruning Columnar Yew Trees Pruning Topiary Forms References Yew is one of the few native conifers we have here in the British Isles and it is popular for use in gardens, whether that’s as a stand-alone specimen, in a natural form, as a topiary or as hedging. It can be a great low-maintenance choice for a range of situations and circumstances. One thing that you do need to consider is how to prune yew in different settings in your garden – and the instructions are somewhat different depending on the form you want your yew to take. We advise on how to prune yew in each of these different scenarios, below. Difficulty Varies depending on form Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening shears When To Prune Spring, summer or autumn (depending on type) Do You Need To Prune Yew Trees? Yew left to their own devices grow into majestic and very large trees. If you have sufficient space then you can certainly choose to leave a yew to grow naturally without much pruning at all. However, most of the time yews in gardens are grown in different forms and maintaining those different forms will, of course, require at least some pruning. You should prune yews that are in specific upright forms, especially where space is limited. You should also prune yew trees grown as hedges and those that are grown in topiary forms. When To Prune Yew Yews are often pruned in the late summer or early autumn when you are just trimming or keeping things loosely in shape. “Yew is a vigorous grower, once established,” says Bill Irving, the Director of Boxtrees Nursery Ltd. “For standard garden hedges, trim once a year in late summer or early autumn, whilst old plants generally respond to pruning in late spring.” Hard cutting back should also be carried out in spring. When you are keeping yew in very tight control, you might prune several times over the spring and summer. The more frequently a yew hedge is trimmed, the denser, tighter and flatter its surface will be, but Bill warns against trimming too frequently: “Minimise trimming where possible and allow the plant a more natural shape and form. “Plants clipped very tightly tend to experience more problems.” Pruning Yew Hedges When it comes to yew hedges, there are several different types of pruning that you might undertake. First of all, if you have a newly planted yew hedge, you will likely have to think about formative pruning. Formative pruning with yew hedges is important because it fosters a straight, upright and dense hedge form. Formative pruning is usually carried out in the winter or early spring. When a yew hedge is first planted, the leading shoot is left unpruned, but straggling side shoots are cut back lightly. In summer, side shoots are then trimmed and the leading shoot is tied into a support stake or cane as it grows. Once a yew hedge is established, you will move on to the main maintenance pruning. This will generally involve cutting back the yew hedge once a year in late summer or early autumn, though it can also involve cutting back 2-3 times a year for a neater and more formal effect. “How often you cut back a Yew hedge will also depend on its size and location,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “A small hedge bordering a path will need to be cut back more often than a large hedge at the back of a border, for example.” According to the RHS, Yew trees can grow up to around 30cm in a year – but trimming once a year will generally keep your yew hedge in check.1 However, more regular pruning will keep the surface of the hedge dense and smooth. If a yew hedge has been neglected and you wish to reduce it in size, it is best not to undertake an extensive renovation prune all at once. Instead, it is best to prune over three subsequent years to achieve the desired size reduction. In the first year, you should cut the top back to around 15-20cm lower than the final height desired. In the next year, you should cut back one of the sides of the overgrown hedge and, in the third year, you should cut back to reduce the width on the other side. Finally, if bare stems have developed at the base of a yew hedge, there is one type of drastic pruning you can undertake in order to get new growth lower down – coppicing. This hard pruning involves cutting the yew down to a point around 15-20cm of ground level early in the spring. New growth should emerge but it will likely be a number of years before your yew hedge recovers. Pruning Columnar Yew Trees If you are growing a yew which has an upright or columnar form, some training and pruning will likely be required in order to keep the desired shape. The branches are often tied together with strong twine to keep them more upright. Outward growth is also then shortened in August or early September. It is best to prune individual branches with secateurs rather than using hedge trimmers on a yew of this type and to prune back in the foliage so that the pruning cuts remain hidden within the tree. Once a yew of this type has reached the desired height, you can also trim the top each summer or early autumn to prevent it from becoming taller than desired. Pruning Topiary Forms Yew is often used for topiary and is well suited for use in this way because it develops dense growth and can respond well to regular pruning. There are, of course, many different topiary forms into which yew trees can be trained. It is possible to purchase pre-shaped yews or to work on shaping your yew from scratch. Pruning once a year in late summer or early autumn can help you maintain a basic form and size, but with many topiary forms, additional pruning once or twice more during the spring and summer seasons will be required to maintain a neat form. Sometimes, a shape will be maintained by just observing the tree, but a frame or guiding form can be placed in order to make it easier to see where pruning should take place. When pruning for topiary uses, Darren Lerigo from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society explains the importance of the tools you use: “It’s worth investing in good tools, a decent pair of shears will have good hard steel that will stay sharp longer which will mean the cuts are clean and not torn. “Get some secateurs, but make sure you try them out first so that you find the ones that fit your hands well and are easy to operate. “Similarly, topiary hand clippers are important for doing the fine detail,” explains Darren. Doing so should make this process easier. References 1. How to grow yew / RHS Gardening. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 26, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/yew/growing-guide
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Sycamores Are Easy To Grow And Care For Says This Master Horticulturist
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow A Sycamore Tree Planting Guidelines How To Care For Sycamore Saplings Ongoing Sycamore Care FAQs References Graceful when young and sturdy when old, the sycamore has an inverted-conical, domed or broadly rounded crown of lush dark green foliage. The sycamore tree is often selected for planting in suburban parks and city boulevards for shade and landscaping purposes. This tough species can also withstand both strong winds near cliffs and sea spray by the coast, making great windbreaks when in leaf. Pasture or forest, city or country, cliff or coast, sycamores are unfussy and will readily grow vigorously anywhere and everywhere, including your garden. Overview Botanical Name Acer pseudoplatanus Common Name(s) Sycamore / Great Maple / Harewood Plant Type Perennial tree Native Area Central / Southeastern Europe Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Visually insignificant, pendent, lime-green, catkin-like, nectar-rich panicles When To Sow August to September When To Plant April to May When To Prune January to February The sycamore originates in a swath of land from central to southeastern Europe.1 Many centuries back, it became naturalised in the British Isles without ever really being considered invasive.2 Another name for this tree is the ‘Great Maple’, which reflects its enormous size when fully mature. In fact, these trees can reach over 30m in the wild, with some even hitting 40m. Their canopies have spreads of around 30m, whilst their branches often measure 1m across and can exceed 1.5m. “I have found Sycamore to be a very wind-tolerant tree, often forming a low, dense dome in very windy spots,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “If you have a smaller garden, it can be managed through periodic pollarding or coppicing.” How To Grow A Sycamore Tree Sycamores are commonly and inexpensively grown from seed. An equally common but more costly option, though one that is easier to grow, is to purchase a bare-root or a potted sapling from a nursery specialising in trees. The advantage of the latter is that you can select a particular cultivar, such as ‘Leopoldii’ for its delightful variegated foliage or ‘Prinz Handjéry’ for its very manageable and compact size. Sycamore seeds can be collected from the ground under an existing tree in autumn. As a species that self-seeds so readily, grows in inhospitable places and has colonised new territories, sycamores can be easy to grow. That admitted, if you optimise the growing conditions, not only do you increase the chances of germination, you are more likely to develop a healthy, strong and even tree. Note that these trees’ shallow, spreading and strong roots may disturb the ground by pushing up pavers or causing a path to become uneven. They can also tap into a cistern or septic system; you should choose your planting spot with these possibilities in mind. Planting Guidelines Seeds can be sown directly into the open ground in autumn or started in pots in spring. The former method is the quick and careless one that you well may attempt for any old sycamore seeds you have collected. The latter is the stricter method that is preferable for planting the seeds of special cultivars. To promote germination for spring sowing, soak the seeds overnight or for up to 24 hours in tepid water. Prepare clay pots with potting mix or seed-starter mix. Sow seeds by placing them on the soil and lightly covering them with the growing medium to about 1cm. Keep the pots in full sun and keep them moist. When the seedlings have 6-8 true leaves, transplant them into the open ground in the right kind of soil. Dig a hole 2-3 times as big as the width and the depth of the pot, then dampen the ground. Before you remove the sapling from the pot, be sure that you know where the soil line is. If you need to, mark it on the incipient trunk. Gently remove the sapling from the pot, placing it in the hole as you spread out the roots. Examine it to make sure that its soil line is set to the surface of the ground. Backfill the hole, tamping down the soil to eliminate air pockets, watering lightly as you do so. Try to ensure that the sapling is perfectly straight as you backfill. Fill up the hole so that the soil level is not any higher than what it was in the pot and pack in the soil. Water the transplanted sapling. How To Care For Sycamore Saplings Just like any other sapling, a sycamore sapling will require initial care. After that, except for watering under unusual circumstances, a sycamore tree does not need any care, as such. Saplings and young trees should be watered regularly. Do not allow the soil to dry out and stay dry for more than a couple of days. If you see any sign of the sapling or young tree developing a lean, stake it. If you have planted it in a spot where adverse conditions, such as loose soil or sloping grounds exist, you may wish to pre-emptively stake it. Ongoing Sycamore Care Feeding During the sapling and young tree stages, apply a bone fertiliser once in spring. Sprinkle it sparingly well away from the root crown, then work and water it in. After the tree has matured and is 6 or more years old, you may feed it annually in spring with a balanced formula. In spring you can mulch the tree to conserve moisture. An organic mulch made of bark and wood chips would be a good choice. Leave a ring of open ground around the trunk with its width being proportional to the width of the trunk. Light Requirements A sycamore sapling should preferably be planted in a position in full sun or in partial shade. Ultimately, it is the sycamore tree itself that will shield you from the hot sun during the dog days of August. Soil Sycamores do not have very specific soil requirements and will grow in most types of soil in the UK. That said, what is best for the tree is fairly fertile soil that is preferably well-drained and mostly moist. These trees will grow well in a fairly wide range of soil pH levels. Watering Fully grown sycamores have shallow but spreading and strong roots. During normal seasonal weather, they do not need watering, as rainwater and subsoil water will suffice. However, there is nothing wrong with dropping the hosepipe by the tree and turning on the faucet every now and then. In unusual circumstances, such as scorching summers or prolonged drought, watering is necessary. In such circumstances, drench the ground 1-2 times a week. The ornamental cultivars, especially the smaller ones, should be watered weekly. Pruning Sycamores do not require pruning. All that you need to do is to prune crossing branches and any branch that may be growing at an incorrect angle. For young trees, you may use an anvil lopper or a pruning saw. Pruning may also be done to keep the tree to a manageable size in a garden – this is typically done by pollarding it. Pruning should be done during dormancy, in January or February. Propagating Sycamores propagate themselves through those amusing helicopter-like seeds that rotate as they float through the air. Propagation by seed is by far the most straightforward way to get more of these plants. Besides seeds, sycamores can also be propagated by two other methods, though neither is as easy or as reliable as using seeds. The first method is by softwood cuttings taken in late spring or early summer. It is difficult to obtain softwood cuttings from a full-grown sycamore and they do not root very readily. Conversely, it is easier to obtain them from a very young tree and they also root with a relatively higher rate of success. The second method is by air layering in spring or autumn, which is a very technical and somewhat complicated method. If you intend to propagate by air layering a stem from a full-grown tree, this will be difficult but can be a reliable method of propagating this tree and offers a very high rate of success. Common Problems Aphids and gall mites are the most common problems that sycamores face, but neither is particularly destructive. Aphids are almost a natural consequence of sycamores because of their floral nectar. A host of methods to control or eliminate these pests are available. Another problem in the nuisance category is caterpillars, specifically winter moth caterpillars. On mature trees, this pest is usually ignored, but on saplings and young trees, it would be a good idea to control them using biological methods. Scale insects, particularly horse chestnut scale, are probably the most damaging pests that can attack sycamores, as they suck sap and cause minor deformities. A serious infestation would weaken the tree. To tackle scale, start early with biological controls and if that does not help, move on to pesticides. Sooty bark disease is a very serious disease that sometimes strikes sycamores that cannot be controlled by amateur gardeners. If this fungal disease is not successfully treated by a professional it can kill the tree. FAQs How Long Do Sycamores Live? A lifespan of 200-plus years is quite normal and a good many specimens have lived to 300 years. They can live for even 400 years or more.3 Are These Trees Fast-Growing Or Invasive? The species tree is definitely very fast growing, whilst oddly enough, a few cultivars, such as ‘Esk Sunset’, are very slow growing! Though they are sometimes considered a weed and gradually colonise tracts of land, they are not considered or classified as invasive in the UK. Are They Suitable For Growing In Pots? The species tree is most unsuitable for growing in pots. However, the more diminutive cultivars, such as the aforementioned ‘Esk Sunset’, can be grown in large containers, though container-growing cannot really be called suitable for any sycamore. Can You Pollard A Sycamore Tree? Yes. It is not uncommon to pollard species of sycamores in gardens, parks and other urban areas, for size and decorative effect. Smaller cultivars should not be pollarded, at least not by lay gardeners. References 1. Acer pseudoplatanus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:781462-1#distributions 2. Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus). (n.d.-b). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/sycamore/ 3. Sycamore. (n.d.). Heart of England Forest. Retrieved April 13, 2023, from https://heartofenglandforest.org/sycamore
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Horticulturists Share How To Grow Hawthorn - The Native Shrub That Helps Support Wildlife
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Hawthorn Planting Guidelines Growing As Hedging Hawthorn Plant Care References Hawthorns are beautiful, deciduous native shrubs that can make a great addition to many UK gardens. They are particularly useful for those who wish to attract plenty of wildlife to their gardens and are a great choice if you want to boost biodiversity where you live. “My favourite plant would have to be Hawthorn as the harbinger of spring, with its roots in ancient Britain and mythology,” shares RHS Horticultural Hero Sarah Eberle. Overview Botanical Name Crataegus monogyna Common Name(s) Hawthorn Plant Type Shrub / Tree Native Area Europe including the UK Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Creamy white flowers followed by dark red berries When To Plant November to March When To Prune Summer Hawthorn is a great plant for those who want to choose native plants to support our native wildlife. The young leaves are also edible to use too and the haws can be used in hedgerow preserves, making hawthorn a good choice for a food-producing garden too.1 Hawthorns are also useful in our garden designs. C. monogyna Darren Lerigo from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society loves growing Hawthorn as a topiary plant, as its fast-growing nature and beautiful flowering habits mean that it is a great native choice. They make excellent habitats for birds with their dense and thorny habit, but this also makes them useful for a secure boundary, a screen or a windbreak hedge. While very popular for use in hedgerows, they can also make great stand-alone specimen trees and, since they won’t grow too tall, they can be a good choice for smaller gardens. Common Varieties Arguably, the best type of hawthorn to grow in the UK is Crataegus monogyna, our native hawthorn and the focus of this guide. There are, however, also many other species within the same genus that can also be interesting choices for a UK garden. C. laevigata, C. tanacetifolia, C. persimilis, C. schraderiana and C. viridis are all good choices. C. laevigata Even once you have decided which hawthorn species to grow, you will need to consider whether a named cultivar will be right for you, as there are a number to choose from. C. tanacetifolia There are cultivars that grow into large trees, small trees or even dwarf types that grow into small trees or shrubs. Selecting the right cultivar and species for your particular garden can help suit your intended use for the plant. How To Grow Hawthorn Hawthorn is a plant that is relatively unfussy about its location and can find an appropriate place in many different gardens. Preferred Site Hawthorn can be grown in full sun or partial shade and in an exposed or sheltered location. They are relatively easy to find a place for in many gardens, whether you are creating a hedge or hedgerow, or finding a place for a stand-alone tree. Soil Requirements When it comes to the soil too, hawthorn has very few very firm requirements. It will grow well in a wide range of different soil types as long as it does not become waterlogged. It should be moist but free-draining or free-draining for the best results. If you have heavy clay soil, it is suitable for growing hawthorn but it should be amended with plenty of organic matter before planting. Hawthorn is fine with a range of pH levels too, doing well in most soils whether they are acidic, alkaline or neutral. Planting Guidelines Hawthorn trees or shrubs can be purchased as bare root plants or in pots. Choosing bare root specimens is typically the best policy when planting hawthorn in your garden or in hedging on your property. It is not only slightly more affordable but also typically leads to plants establishing more successfully and quickly. Hawthorns are best planted out during the dormant period between November and March, whether you choose bare-root plants or not. While plants in pots are available throughout the year, these may not establish as well when planted out in summer. When planting hawthorn, as when planting other trees or shrubs, first make sure that you have prepared the area, adding organic matter and clearing any persistent weeds . Next, dig your planting hole. Be sure to make this the same depth as the existing root ball and at least twice as wide. In some cases, it may be beneficial to add mycorrhizal fungi to the planting hole when planting hawthorn, as it can be when planting other trees and shrubs.2 Place the hawthorn plant into the hole, spreading out the roots within it, then fill the soil back in around the roots and firm it into place. Water in your new hawthorn, then mulch around the base of the plant with organic mulch, but take care not to mound it around the base of the trunk or stems. Growing As Hedging When grown as hedging, hawthorn is typically planted at quite a wide spacing, around 80-100cm between plants. It is often used in mixed hedgerows, with other native species interspersed. This is a great idea because it boosts biodiversity and attracts an even wider range of native wildlife than simply using hawthorn on its own. Hawthorn Plant Care Hawthorn can definitely be a great low-maintenance plant for a UK garden, generally requiring little care. However, this will only be true if you choose a suitable spot to grow this plant in the first place and provide it with the right care during the establishment phase. Sunlight Hawthorn, as mentioned above, is not too fussy about how much sunlight it receives. C. laevigata ‘Crimson Cloud’ It can do well in full sun or in dappled or partial shade. The only spots to avoid are those that are too deeply shaded, as hawthorn will not flower or fruit as well where there is deeper shade. Watering Hawthorn should be watered well upon planting and it is important to keep watering regularly during dry spells as the plant establishes itself in your garden. Once it is well rooted and has established well, in most areas natural rainfall will be sufficient for your hawthorn and you will not have to water anymore, except for during the most serious of droughts. The only exception to this is where you are growing hawthorn in a container, in which case you will need to water regularly to ensure that you keep your hawthorn happy and healthy. Feeding Hawthorns growing in the ground will require moderately fertile and healthy soil, but will not typically need additional feeding where the soil is adequate. However, if the growth seems poor during establishment, you can add a general-purpose organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone around the plants in early spring to boost their growth. This should not continue once the hawthorn is well established. Common Problems Hawthorn does not tend to be particularly prone to problems, but it can get a number of fungal infections or fall prey to certain pests like deer and rabbits, caterpillars and aphids on occasion. Encourage natural biodiversity in your garden and this will help to keep pest populations under control through natural predation. “One of the notable problems hawthorns can suffer from is fireblight, which is a bacterial disease (Erwinia amylovora) that mainly affects members of the Rosaceae family,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “Plants that can be affected include apples and pears which is why it is often avoided as a hedgerow species in orchards.” References 1. Hawthorn. (2021, May 13). Wild Food UK. Retrieved March 31, 2023, from https://www.wildfooduk.com/edible-wild-plants/hawthorn/ 2. Mycorrhizal fungi. (n.d.-b). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 31, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/mycorrhizal-fungi
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