Growing
Yucca Are Generally Trouble-Free, But Brown Spots Might Need Further Investigation
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Overwatering 2) Fluoride Or Salt Toxicity 3) Diseases & Pests Hardy yuccas are famous for their easy-going temperament and ability to withstand the harshest conditions. “Generally Yuccas are very versatile plants, and apart from frost damage in very cold winters, the hardy species rarely suffer plant health problems,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. However, that doesn’t mean that they’re completely indestructible and you may find your plant is suffering from one or more maladies. One of the most common and clearest symptoms that all is not well with a yucca is the appearance of brown spots on its leaves, browning at its extremities or a general brown or yellow hue to the foliage. If you notice such signs on your plant, it’s a good idea to investigate the issue further and take remedial action before it worsens. Here are some of the likeliest causes of discolouration, along with some pointers on how to address them. 1) Overwatering Given that their natural habitat is normally a desert, it’s understandable that yuccas don’t take too kindly to overwatering. They’re considered to be succulent plants, which means they can store water in their foliage, so it’s highly unlikely that you’ll be underwatering them. Overwatering, on the other hand, is very easily done and will drown the plant’s roots, leading to a fungal infection which can manifest itself in the shape of brown spots. To check your yucca’s root health, gently unearth them. They should be white and firm to the touch. If they’re black, discoloured or squishy, you should carefully cut away the damaged parts and repot the remainder of the plant in a new container with good draining soil. In the future, only water when the top 5cm of the soil is dry. 2) Fluoride Or Salt Toxicity If the water with which you irrigate your yuccas has an excess of fluoride, it can cause their leaves to develop brown tips. These can initially appear as small brown spots on the fringes of the leaf, but will soon take over the whole extremity. Although this is not actually detrimental to the plant’s health, fluoride toxicity can be unsightly, but a simple switch to distilled water and the problem will resolve itself in time. Salty water, however, can be a death sentence for yucca plants. If the soil in your garden has high salinity or you water the plant using a softener, the yucca may develop brown spots, tips or stunted growth. In serious cases, a white crust may appear atop the soil. You should immediately attempt to flush the soil out using water free from salt but it’s possible that the plant may be too far gone to save. 3) Diseases & Pests Fungal spores of Coniothyrium concentricum can spread quickly from leaf to leaf and manifest themselves in the shape of brown spots with a yellow halo, though they rarely take over a whole leaf. This contrasts with the more general browning often resulting from overwatering. Nonetheless, you must take prompt action to prevent them from propagating further. To do so cut back damaged leaves to the stem and clear any fallen leaves from the base of the plant. Preventing water from sitting on the leaves and ensuring good drainage is key too. Potted outdoor plants could be moved to a porch, for example. Meanwhile, pests are another problem for yucca plants, especially mealy bugs. Although these normally leave behind white spots rather than brown ones, the latter could indicate an infestation as well. Treat them by removing the damaged leaves and spraying the plant with plant oils.
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Pruning Yucca Also Offers An Opportunity To Propagate New Plants - Gardeners Share How
IN THIS GUIDE Pruning Clump-Forming Types Pruning Trunk-Forming Types Yuccas are interesting succulent plants which come in a range of different varieties. Tender types are often grown as houseplants, while hardy types can be grown outside in a suitably free-draining and mild spot. There are two main reasons why you might want to prune your yucca plant. The first might be to gain new yucca plants by propagating an existing yucca whilst the second is to reduce the size of a plant that has grown too large for its location. Read on to understand how to prune the two different types of yucca. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gloves and a spade When To Prune March-April Pruning Clump-Forming Types Clump-forming yuccas are most commonly propagated by dividing offsets from a parent plant. To do so: Look carefully around the base of the plant for small suckers. Carefully move aside the soil or growing medium to expose the rhizome that links it to the parent plant. Cut through this rhizome with a sharp knife. Place the offset to dry for a couple of days. Once it is dry, place it in a propagator or cover it and place it out of direct sunlight but in a warm, bright location. Wait for the offset to root. Pot on or plant out the new yucca plants. Pruning Trunk-Forming Types If you have a trunk-forming yucca, these can grow extremely tall. If you have one which has grown too large for its location, you might simply wish to transplant it to a new spot, but you can also take the slightly risky option and prune the plant dramatically by cutting off the top to the desired height, removing half of the plant. “I would perform this task in early spring to optimise the possibility of the stem regeneration,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The pruned top stems can be planted in a semi-shady spot outside or into pots in a semi-shaded position, depending on size.” If the plant is healthy and happy, it should sprout new growth. Mulching around the base of the plant with organic matter should help increase the chances of a successful recovery. You can also take the top half of the yucca and treat it like a massive cutting by replanting it, and with careful tending, it may develop new roots and resume its growth. However, this is a job best not attempted by beginners and you should note that there are no guarantees that the original plant that you have divided will recover, and if it does, it may not be the most attractive specimen for several years.
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Preventing Root Rot In Yucca: Start With The Conditions In The Soil And Improve Drainage
IN THIS GUIDE Identifying Root Rot Preventing Root Rot In The Ground Preventing Root Rot In Pots Attempting Recovery When growing yucca, root rot is one of the most common problems you might encounter. As the name suggests, this is when the roots begin to decompose and is often caused by the conditions in the soil or growing medium – or fungi. When the roots of a plant decompose, this means that it is unable to obtain the water and nutrients it needs. Though it can be serious, careful planning, correct placement and proper care of your yucca can help you to avoid this issue in the first place, whether you are growing your yucca in a container or in your garden. Even if this problem does occur, you may still be able to nip the problem in the bud and remove the affected roots so that the rest of the plant can recover. Identifying Root Rot Since roots are hidden below the surface of the soil or growing medium, the first signs that root rot may be likely or may already have occurred will be observed in the leaves of the plant. Yellowing, limp leaves can often be a sign that overwatering or waterlogged soil is an issue. Leaves may also turn brown and drop off, as root damage means that the plants cannot take up water as they should. Preventing Root Rot In The Ground If you suspect root rot, think about the environmental conditions and whether these are suited to the type of yucca you are growing. If you are growing yucca in the soil in your garden, the first thing to consider is your soil type. Clay soils are far more prone to waterlogged soil and so may not be ideal for growing these plants. You can take steps to improve the drainage in the area by tackling compaction and by adding plenty of organic matter to the area. If a spot is becoming waterlogged, you can transplant your yucca to a more suitable, free-draining location before root rot becomes a major issue. “If you are limited on your range of site options, first dig in plenty of organic matter and form a raised mound for planting into,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This should give a sufficiently raised free-draining root zone.” Preventing Root Rot In Pots Root rot in yucca plants that are grown in containers is also unfortunately rather common, but you can make this problem much less likely to occur by: Choosing the right container – one which is only a little larger than the existing root system of the plant and which has good drainage. Selecting the right growing medium – ideally a peat-free, loam-based potting mix with 20-30% by volume of horticultural grit added to improve drainage. Watering well – only when the top couple of centimetres of the potting mix are dry. Attempting Recovery If root rot has begun, you may still be able to prevent the problem from getting worse. Lift the plant or take it from its container, identify damaged root sections and cut them off, then transplant or repot your yucca to save it.
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Dying Yucca Plant? Check These 3 Important Factors As Potential Causes
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Assess The Light Levels 2) Check That The Soil Is Not Waterlogged 3) Inspect Water & Humidity Levels Yuccas are generally relatively easy to care for, but, as with most other plants, things can sometimes go wrong. If your yucca plant is not thriving and seems to be dying, it can be disappointing, however, you should not give up on your plant right away. If you act quickly, there could still be time to turn things around and save your plant. If a yucca seems to be dying, this is most commonly down to mistakes you have made or problems with the environmental conditions in which the plant is growing. Reviving a dying yucca plant often involves these three steps: Looking at light levels and addressing any problems. Tackling overwatering or waterlogging issues. Providing sufficient water and humidity where a lack of these is the problem. Read on to find out about each of these in more detail. 1) Assess The Light Levels Yucca growing outside prefer a full sun location, but can sometimes cope with light shade. Those grown indoors need as light and bright a position as possible. Yuccas that do not get enough light can develop weak and spindly growth and leaves may often droop and, if the problem persists, will die and drop off. Moving your plant to a lighter and brighter location will often be sufficient to allow it to recover. “The trick with indoor Yuccas is to find a bright spot but one that doesn’t get baked in a south-facing window,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “An east or west-facing window is usually a good option. A bathroom or kitchen can be a good option if your Yucca is suffering from brown leaf tips due to low humidity.” 2) Check That The Soil Is Not Waterlogged One of the most common problems when growing yuccas are wilting, yellowing and root rotting, often caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Waterlogged soil is one of the biggest issues for these succulent plants. Make sure you only water your yucca plant when the top couple of centimetres of the growing medium is dry in summer, and water even more sparingly in the winter months. If overwatering is the problem, hold off watering for a while and the plant may recover. If drainage is the issue, check carefully to make sure drainage holes are not blocked. Make sure that you are not growing your yucca in too large a container and also that it is not in need of repotting. If the soil is waterlogged, remove the plant from its pot, check for root rot and cut off any affected areas. Repot your Yucca in a new peat-free, loam-based growing medium, making sure that you add grit for drainage. If the problem is not too advanced, your plant may well recover. 3) Inspect Water & Humidity Levels Another water-related issue might be that you have simply not watered your yucca enough. Though these succulents need good drainage, they do also need some water and should not be allowed to dry out entirely. Make sure you are watering when the top couple of centimetres of the growing medium is dry in summer, and when the top 5cm or so of the growing medium is dry in winter. Giving your yucca a good drink (but making sure excess water can drain away freely) will often allow the plant to recover. Misting in dry indoors conditions can help make sure you don’t get brown leaf tips as a result of low humidity.
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Hardy Yuccas Can Generally Grow Outside Year-Round - But Winter Wet Can Be A Threat
IN THIS GUIDE Caring For Hardy Types Caring For Tender Types Yuccas are succulents that can be grown indoors as houseplants all year round, and some types can also be grown outdoors in milder locations. Understanding how to care for yuccas in winter involves understanding the needs of the particular type and variety of yucca you are trying to grow. How you should care for your yucca in winter will depend on whether you are growing a tender or a hardy type. Hardy yuccas can grow outside year-round in most places throughout the UK, but winter wet can be a threat, so they must be grown in a free-draining location. Tender yuccas cannot cope with winter temperatures in the UK, so must be moved for winter into a cool conservatory or indoors, or grown as houseplants year-round. Container-grown yucca should be watered only sparingly over the winter months. Caring For Hardy Types Hardy yuccas include species such as Y. filamentosa, Y. flaccida and Y. gloriosa. These all have a hardiness rating of H5 and can cope with winter temperatures throughout most of the UK, even during extremely cold winters. However, even these hardy yuccas cannot cope with waterlogged conditions, so with our wet winters, these plants will only survive in very dry and sheltered spots with free-draining conditions and ideally some protection from winter deluges. If you choose a suitable spot from the outset then a hardy yucca should make it through the winter months outside just fine. “Make sure that you select a free draining spot but also keep a keen eye on the spots that defrost or where snow rarely settles or melts first,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “These will be the spots to plant Yuccas and other moderately hardy plants.” Caring For Tender Types While some tender yuccas are H3 hardy and therefore able to stay outside in winter in the mildest and some coastal regions of the UK, most must be moved and taken indoors for winter or grown as houseplants year-round. For example, Y. aloifolia needs temperatures above 7°C and Y. elephantipes needs temperatures above 10°C. Therefore, these and other tender species are typically grown indoors throughout the year or brought inside by the end of August before being placed outside again in a sheltered and sunny spot the following May. Yuccas in containers should be watered only sparingly in the winter and should not be fed. Allow the top 5cm of the growing medium to dry out before watering again thoroughly, making absolutely sure that excess water can drain away freely.
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Cultivation, Fungal And Pest Issues Can Sometimes Affect Yuccas - These Are The Fixes
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Cultivation Issues 2) Fungal Problems 3) Pests Yuccas are not particularly challenging plants to grow and don’t have many problems or issues. However, as with any plant, things can sometimes go wrong. Here are the most common problems and issues you are likely to encounter: Cultivation issues related to your gardening practices or environmental conditions, such as discoloured or drooping leaves. Fungal issues causing brown spots on leaves or root rot. Pest problems such as issues with aphids or snails when growing yuccas outdoors. Keep reading to understand these issues in more detail and to find out what you can do to prevent or fix them. 1) Cultivation Issues If any problems or issues do occur, they are most commonly caused by something that you, as the grower, have done or failed to do – or an issue with the location in which you have chosen to grow your plant. Brown Leaves If you see brown leaves on your yucca plant, it is not always a cause for concern. Lower leaves naturally turn brown and are shed as the plant continues to grow. However, if many leaves are brown and crispy, this is likely because your plant has not received enough water. Brown tips of leaves can suggest that the humidity was too low, while more widespread browning often means you have not been watering enough. See more on fixing brown leaves in this guide. Drooping Leaves Drooping leaves are most commonly caused by low light levels. Yuccas need plenty of light and it is very common that indoors grown plants don’t get enough. However, leaves may also droop if the temperatures have been too low during a sudden cold snap when yucca are outdoors. Indoors or out, drooping leaves can also be a sign of under-watering or overwatering. Overwatering is likely the culprit if the drooping leaves also suddenly turn yellow on your plant. We share more on fixing drooping leaves in this guide. Yellow Leaves As with brown discolouration, some yellowing on the lower leaves of a yucca plant is completely normal. However, if the leaves suddenly go yellow and seem rather limp, this is often due to overwatering, or a problem with drainage that has led to waterlogged soil. If watering has been extremely excessive, root rot can set in. Cut off affected root sections and repot your yucca once you spot the issues and it may still recover. Learn more about fixing yellow leaves in this guide. 2) Fungal Problems While cultural problems are far more common when growing yucca, you may also experience fungal issues when growing this plant. Brown Spots Fungal issues often manifest themselves as brown spots on the leaves of your plant. Simply cut off any leaves that are showing signs of infection to prevent its spread, and this should not be too great an issue. Root Rot Root rot can occur not only due to waterlogged soil but also due to fungal infection as a result of excessive water. It is not always easy to find out whether fungi are involved, but if root rot occurs, you will need to cut off all affected areas and repot in a new medium to prevent moving fungi with your plant. “Root rot will not usually happen with a potted Yucca with adequate drainage,” explains Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Repot using John Innes No.2 with some added grit and ensure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. If you have a drainage tray, make sure that your Yucca is not standing in a sump of water after watering.” 3) Pests Yuccas are generally not particularly troubled by pests. However, there are a few small issues that can arise when growing these plants outdoors. Aphids Sometimes, aphids can be found on yucca flowers, though should not usually affect the plant excessively. Attracting beneficial predatory insects and tolerating aphids in your space is the best way to prevent this pest from getting out of control. Snails Another issue that sometimes arises is snails damaging the yucca leaves. This is rarely a major problem but can cause your plant to look unsightly. Attracting birds and other wildlife that eat snails to your garden and cutting off any affected leaves should ensure that this does not become a bigger issue.
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Yucca Leaves Drooping? Don't Give Up On It Before Trying This Horticulturist's Advice
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Low Light Levels 2) Water Shortage 3) Overwatering 4) Cold Temperatures Yuccas can often be relatively easy and trouble-free houseplants to grow, and can also work well outside in certain areas of the UK. However, like any other plant, they can encounter issues now and then. Drooping leaves are one of the signs that your yucca is not entirely happy and you may need to carry out a little detective work to determine exactly what is wrong. Drooping leaves are often a sign that: Light levels are too low. You have not watered your yucca enough. You have watered too much or the soil is waterlogged. The yucca has been exposed to temperatures too cold for the particular variety you are growing. Read on to understand each of these issues and their solutions in more detail. 1) Low Light Levels Most yuccas need a reasonable amount of sunlight each day. Drooping leaves can be a sign that your yucca, especially if grown indoors, is not getting enough light. Move your yucca to a brighter location and it may well recover. If the issue is not resolved, the droopy leaves may eventually drop off the plant. 2) Water Shortage A yucca with drooping leaves might also be a sign that you have not given your plant enough water. Though yuccas need good drainage, you should also water freely throughout the growing season between April and September, making sure not to let the growing medium dry out entirely. During the dormant period in winter, allow the top 5cm of your potting mix to dry out and then water well, making sure that the surplus can drain away freely. If this problem is not resolved, the drooping leaves will likely turn brown and the plant may ultimately die. 3) Overwatering Drooping leaves can also be a sign that you have watered too much or that the drainage in your container is not sufficient. However, drooping leaves in this case are usually accompanied by some sudden yellowing of the leaves on your plant. If you think that overwatering may be the issue, reduce watering and allow the plant to virtually dry out. If the problem has continued long enough that the roots have rotted, remove the plant from its container and discard any rotted roots and the medium. Re-pot your yucca in a container just big enough to accommodate the smaller root ball, water sparingly, and it may recover. 4) Cold Temperatures An unexpected cold snap may also cause the leaves to droop on a yucca that is growing outdoors. Tender yucca will not be able to tolerate temperatures below 7°C at night and can only be over-wintered indoors, but even hardier options will struggle if the weather is particularly cold. Protect hardier types growing outdoors with horticultural fleece or move them to a greenhouse or other undercover area if a cold snap is forecast. “If your Yucca is outdoors and gets frost damage, don’t give up on it and dig it up immediately,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “There is a chance that it will recover into May and June and show signs of life where there were none before.”
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8 Tender And Hardy Yucca Varieties Suited To Indoor, Patio Or Courtyard Planting
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Y. elephantipes 2) Y. gloriosa 3) Y. aloifolia 4) Y. flaccida 5) Y. filamentosa 6) Y. rostrata 7) Y. whipplei 8) Y. baccata References With their bold, spiky foliage, bell-shaped flowers and interesting forms, yuccas will make a great addition to your displays. Their exotic appearance recalls more tropical climes, while their stature and structure bring architectural drama to their surroundings. A native genus of the Americas, it’s true that most yuccas do prefer warmer and drier climes. However, many are hardy enough to withstand British weather and for those more tender species which can’t, they make excellent houseplants. With that in mind, we’ve compiled a list of some of our favourite yucca varieties for you to cultivate in your own back garden, greenhouse or home. When making your selection, be mindful of the effect you wish to create and the space available to you and you won’t go far wrong. 1) Y. elephantipes COMMON NAME(S): spineless yucca HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: bright, direct sunlight EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2m in height, 0.5-1m spread Probably the most popular species of yucca sold in the UK, this large shrub or small tree is capable of exceeding 10m in height given the right conditions! Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately, depending on the dimensions at your disposal), those conditions are not common outdoors in Britain. Therefore it makes more sense to treat spineless yuccas as houseplants. They’re hardy down to 1°C so will do well indoors, while the fact that their leaves aren’t as spiky as many other varieties means there’s no chance of them rubbing you up the wrong way. 2) Y. gloriosa COMMON NAME(S): Spanish dagger HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread At the other end of the spectrum we have the Spanish dagger, which, as the name suggests, has sharp foliage. This is a hardy yucca suitable for borders or courtyard garden cultivation. It’s also a large shrub or small tree, reaching around 2.5m in height, whilst its 1m long leaves and creamy flowers catch the eye when in full bloom. Although it is suitable for growing indoors, this hardy species can do even better outside, as long as it’s placed in full sun and receives excellent drainage in its soil. It has a slow growth rate wherever it’s cultivated, though it will mature slightly faster outside. There is also a variegated version ‘Variegata’ with leaves striped and edged with creamish-yellow hues. Again, this is H5 hardy. The leaves are often harvested to make rope, clothes or other materials. 3) Y. aloifolia COMMON NAME(S): Spanish bayonet HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Continuing with the theme of Hispanic pointed objects, the Spanish bayonet is equally as prickly as its compatriot. It features one or more stems with sparse branches, crowned by a spiky rosette of razor-sharp leaves. In summer, the blossom of white and purple-tinged flowers can stretch for over 50cm. It’s a delicate creature that’s unable to withstand less than 7°C in the colder months. For that reason, it’s a good idea to treat it as a houseplant or position it in your greenhouse or conservatory in winter. 4) Y. flaccida COMMON NAME(S): Adam’s needle / golden sword HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Despite its fearsome name, the Adam’s needle yucca is far less of a weapon than the two previous entries on this list. It’s a clump-forming shrub that dispenses with a stem altogether, instead favouring lance-like leaves. They tend to droop away at their extremities and although not soft, they’re not as sharp as others. Yucca flaccida such as ‘Ivory’ or ‘Golden Sword’ (both of which have received an RHS AGM) are also good choices for courtyard gardens or other sunny, relatively dry spots in the ground or in containers. The former has white flowers on panicles around 1.5m high, while the latter has lance-like leaves with golden stripes down their centres, and creamy white flowers on panicles around 1.5m high. Their relatively low height (just over 50cm) makes them ideal for smaller spaces, though you should be aware that both their flower panicles and their spread can exceed 1.5m. 5) Y. filamentosa COMMON NAME(S): needle palm HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread Easily identifiable by the thin filaments found on their long, evergreen leaves, needle palm takes both its Latin and its common name from the phenomenon. This is a small stemless shrub which forms clumps of deep green leaves which are edges with curled filaments. The clumps grow to around 75cm height, with a spread of around 1.5m. In late summer, flowers are borne on panicles that can reach up to 2m in height. While you might need to look closely to notice these defining characteristics, the tall panicles of clustered white flowers (capable of reaching over 2m in height) will be immediately obvious. Yucca filamentosa is one of the hardier species of the genus, able to withstand temperatures as cold as -15°C. That makes them the perfect plant for even the frostiest regions of the UK, though they still demand plentiful sunshine and adequate drainage. This is a good choice for dry, hot borders and courtyard gardens. “A fixture of riviera-style coastal plantings in the UK, Yucca filementosa is a great option for adding an exotic touch to your garden for all but the coldest parts of the UK,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “The stems provide year-round needle-like foliage texture and the flowers are unmissable.” 6) Y. rostrata COMMON NAME(S): beaked yucca HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread The pompom-like rosette of blue-green leaves of the beaked yucca begins life on the ground. Don’t be fooled by its slow-moving growth habits, however; given time, this spectacular specimen can surpass 4m in height! Its impressive stature and interesting architecture make it one of the more striking yucca plants available. What’s more, it’s a tough customer that will fend off sub-zero temperatures with ease! If you want it to reach its full potential, you might have a long wait on your hands, as it can take over a decade to completely mature, but the good news is that it will demand little in the way of upkeep in that time. 7) Y. whipplei COMMON NAME(S): our lord’s candle HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Our Lord’s Candle is a medium-sized shrub which features long leaves with serrated edges that take no prisoners. Its foliage is a greenish-blue in colour and can take a decade to reach its full length of up to 5m (though normally far less), at which time it will flower. The blooms are comprised of masses of bell-shaped white flowers which will die once it has finished blooming. However, one or more offsets normally spring up in its place, so take care when cutting away the old plant to make way for the new. More suitable for outdoor than indoor cultivation. 8) Y. baccata COMMON NAME(S): banana yucca HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: cream, red, purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread So named for its small green fruit which resembles bananas, the Yucca baccata requires next to nothing in the way of maintenance and isn’t even overly bothered about irrigation. Its fruits are edible and incredibly sweet, often used to make cakes, tarts and other delectable desserts.1 As for the plant itself, it’s a slow-growing shrub capable of reaching around 1.5m in height and around the same in spread, though it will take many years to do so. It’s best suited to gravel gardens, patios or courtyard planting and should deal with the vagaries of the British climate as long as it’s afforded enough sun. References 1. Yucca baccata. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Yucca+baccata
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Snowy Mespilus - How To Grow Amelanchier Lamarckii With Katherine Crouch
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Amelanchier Juneberry Plant Care References While originally hailing from the US, this tree has settled nicely into the UK and makes a great addition to any garden, whether you plant it yourself and watch it grow over the years or you move into a place where a thoughtful previous resident did the waiting for you.1 This tree is beautifully colourful, with a clean white blossom giving way to rich green leaves that then fade out through a pleasing autumn palette. Purple-pink berries join the medley of colour in summer and these, called juneberries or serviceberries, are edible!2 Overview Botanical Name Amelanchier lamarckii Common Name(s) Snowy Mespilus / Juneberry Plant Type Perennial Native Area Canada Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White blossom When To Plant October to November When To Prune March When you see this tree in spring bloom it’s easy to see where the common name Snowy Mespilus comes from, as the white flowers are really a sight to behold. Amelanchier lamarckii has been awarded the Award of Garden Merit (AGM), meaning it’s particularly well suited to growing in British conditions. This makes it a fine candidate for anyone looking for a tree in their garden. “If you want a tree in your garden (which you should do), consider small-leaved ones like Amelanchier,” shares garden designer Katherine Crouch. “In the autumn gales, with any luck, the leaves will all blow next door or curl up under a hedge, meaning no masses of leaves to rake!” Canadian heritage means this tree can handle very low temperatures and it’s rare that we see cold anywhere close to those extremes! It’s noted for its ability to attract bees and other pollinators too, great if you’re looking for a little buzz. You can grow A. lamarckii in the ground or in a container and it can also be grown as a tree, a shrub or a hedge. This versatility makes it a popular choice for a range of gardeners. Planting Amelanchier Clay or loam soil is favourite for A. lamarckii, as well as a spot with plenty of space to allow the tree room to thrive. If you’re growing A. lamarckii from seed, grow in a cold frame in late summer and plant out the following spring. If you’ve bought a plant in a container, you can plant it out at any time, although October or November is preferable. If you decide to plant out from a container in spring be extra vigilant, taking care to water your Amelanchier frequently to help it get established. Find a spot with full sun or partial shade, with moist soil and good drainage. Choosing a spot with good amounts of sunshine will lead to a more vibrant autumnal colour palette. How To Plant To plant out an Amelanchier bought in a container, dig a hole of suitable size in the ground and lift it in, taking care to pack the soil around the roots tight enough that the young tree can stand up on its own firmly. The top level of the soil should be level with the rest of the bed, and you should water right away. Juneberry Plant Care Whether you’ve got an A. lamarckii plant already or you’re planning to get one, learning how to take care of it will help it to thrive long into its life. Preferred Soil & Fertilising Clay or loam is favoured by this plant, with good drainage as another important feature. This said though, they’ll do well in other types of soil too, just make sure to avoid soil with lime as this tree prefers acidic to neutral pH levels. This tree likes well-drained soil as we’ve said; areas that are left soggy will most likely damage the roots and stunt growth, potentially even killing the tree if the issue is not rectified. They will tolerate drought conditions for a length of time, but you should still take care to water as and when they need to keep them healthy. Watering With a newly-planted tree, water a couple of times a week to help it get established. After a year or so, when your juneberry is established, you won’t need to water it anymore except during the most severe drought conditions. Deliberate watering is mainly good for nurturing the plant through its fledgling years. Staking It’s okay to stake young A. lamarckii trees, but remember not to tie the stakes too tight. Your tree still needs to be able to sway in the wind as this helps to establish and strengthen the root system that will keep it anchored in the future. Also, remember to remove your stakes after a couple of years, as a stake left on for too long can cause damage to the trunk of your tree and stunt future growth. Common Problems Thankfully, this tree is fairly resistant to pests and other problems. The thing to keep an eye out for is fireblight, which is a bacterial infection that leads to damage that looks like it may have been caused by fire – hence the name. If you see any of the following symptoms, your juneberry may be infected: Wilting or dying blossoms. Slimy white liquid in wet weather. Shoots shrivelling and dying. Fox colouration beneath bark. The way to control fireblight is the immediate removal and destruction of the infected areas. Obviously, if the infection spreads to the main trunk this can be difficult to achieve. Pruning This tree has a tendency to arrive at well-organised branch structures of its own accord and requires little pruning as a result. “I am a huge fan of multi-stemmed Amelanchier lamarckii for small gardens, as there is something for every season,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist with years of experience, including 5 years working at The Eden Project. “You can prune out the oldest stems to keep the size of the tree limited, which also limits the shade underneath and increases the planting opportunities. “You can also fully rejuvenate the tree by pruning out 1/3 of the oldest branches every year for 3 years.” If you do decide to prune away areas, do so in late winter or early spring. Companion Planting This plant looks great with tulips around its base, or against the bright red colouration of cornus alba. References 1. Amelanchier × lamarckii. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:721221-1 2. Wong, J. (2018, August 2). Juneberry, the blossom with benefits. The Guardian. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2017/mar/26/juneberry-the-blossom-with-benefits
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