Growing
Pruning Oleander Out Of Season Can Devastate Your Plant - Here's How To Do It Right
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Remove Damaged Branches 2) Deadhead 3) Autumn Pruning 4) Spring Touch-Ups This lovely evergreen features narrow greyish-green or sea-green leaves and bears little salver-shaped flowers in terminal clusters all throughout summer and beyond. However, if you prune oleander out of season in the UK, the plant can get into serious trouble and even struggle for survival. On the other hand, in the right season, an oleander bush will not be harmed one bit by even a severe prune. You don’t have to prune these low-maintenance evergreens. Pruning, however, will significantly enhance flowering and will keep the bush’s shape neat and tidy, and here’s how to do it: Remove any dead or damaged branches from the plant. Deadhead any spent flowers as and when they appear. Prune in the Autumn – after flowering but before the first frost. Make any final adjustments with your final spring touch-ups. Each step of this process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs, pruning shears When To Prune Autumn 1) Remove Damaged Branches Any branches that have died, become bare or have been damaged by pests or breakage should be pruned when observed, anytime from spring to autumn. You may also want to prune an excessively long, protruding, or unsightly branch. Using pruning shears, cut a branch right at its attachment to the main stem or origin branch. 2) Deadhead A short time into the blooming season, flowers will start to fade and wither. Simply twist or snip off these spent blooms. Often, most of the flowers in a terminal cluster will be wilted and spent. You may as well remove these clusters entirely at their attachment or just above the branch’s node. Deadheading will, at least to some extent, spur fresh blooms. It will also keep the bush looking neat and improve aesthetics. 3) Autumn Pruning Timing is crucial if you need to prune oleanders in autumn. Do so as soon as possible after the flowering season ends and well before the first frost. Mid-to-late September is usually best. As these evergreens are not winter-hardy, early pruning will allow fresh growth ample time to emerge so that the plant is well set with foliage before the onset of winter. I do not recommend severe pruning, and would suggest that you instead prune for maintenance. This shrub, like many evergreens, flowers on new growth, and to foster such new growth you will need to cut off branch tips. Make the cut just above the node immediately below a terminal cluster of leaves. Cut from half to two-thirds of the branches in this manner all over the bush. You can trim branches by greater lengths if you wish, and doing so will promote side shoots and bushiness with a narrower profile. Be sure to make the cut no more than halfway down the branch and to make it just below a node. Prune only a limited number of branches in this fashion. “Oleander may survive a hard prune in a sheltered spot, but be warned that it will normally take a few years to flower abundantly after a hard prune and it will also be more susceptible to cold damage,” says Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. 4) Spring Touch-Ups Soon after the shrub starts growing strongly in spring you can opt to make a couple of adjustments. If your oleander is insufficiently bushy and if you see fresh shoots sprouting upwards, you may pinch or trim them to halt such growth. This will trigger lateral growth. If the plant, be it open-ground or pot-grown, exhibits any frost-damaged branches, prune them at their attachments. If you have open-ground oleander, you might spot suckers spreading around the bush. If you do, you can dig down under the sucker and pull or tear it off, taking care not to damage the roots of the mother plant. Doing so will re-direct the plant’s energies towards flowering from early summer.
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Take Oleander Cuttings After It Has Started Putting Out Fresh Growth (Before Flowering)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Take Oleander Cuttings 1) Prepare The Pot 2) Take Your Cutting 3) Prepare The Cuttings 4) Cover Well 5) Care For Your Nerium Cutting 6) Watch For Plants Taking Root Oleander can be propagated from cuttings very easily and just as reliably, provided you do it right. This is a versatile plant that can be used for a range of different things in your garden, from hedging to ground cover. This is how you can grow oleander from cuttings: Prepare the pot in which you will place your cuttings. Take the plant cutting from an existing oleander in your garden or home. Prepare the cutting with a rooting hormone or homemade alternative (optional). Cover the pot and allow time to propagate. Care for the cutting correctly. Watch the cutting to make sure it is developing as it should. This process is explained in more detail in the six steps below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs and gardening gloves When To Propagate May-June When To Take Oleander Cuttings The best season to take oleander cuttings is after the plant has started putting out fresh growth but just before it starts flowering. This is usually around May or June. Cuttings should be taken in the morning or mid-morning. 1) Prepare The Pot Prepare a small terracotta pot that has drainage holes. Fill the pot up to about 2cm from the top with sterile potting mix and sand. I like layering the media in which to root cuttings. A lower layer of pebbles and grit, a thicker intermediate layer of organic compost and sand, and a top layer (in which the cutting will initially root) of sterile potting mix and sand will work great. “The layered compost approach mimics the conditions a plant might root into in its native habitat,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Loose and friable at the surface, a more moist mid-layer and a free draining sub-soil. It also minimises soil disturbance that might disrupt root development.” This technique allows you to keep the cutting in the original pot until it becomes a thriving little plant. Dampen the medium well. 2) Take Your Cutting On the parent bush, choose a well-grown branch from the current season’s growth – take a cutting from a mature greenwood stem. It may well be grey or brownish-green at the attachment but fully green at the tip. It should be at least 20cm long and not have any flowering buds. Using your secateurs, cut a length of 18-20cm off this branch, making the cut just under a leaf node. Retain the 3 uppermost leaves and snip off the rest along the cutting. 3) Prepare The Cuttings Dip the base of the cutting to about a quarter of its length in rooting hormone powder. If you don’t have any, I can vouch for the old-fashioned method of dipping cuttings in cinnamon powder and (herbal or clover) honey – it does the trick. Make a narrow hole with a twig or pencil in the pot’s medium and insert the cutting to about a third of its length. Pack in the medium around the cutting and water it in well. 4) Cover Well Cover the cutting with a large, clear perforated polythene bag or sheet to trap humidity. Tie or clip the bag’s opening or edges to the rim of the pot. The polythene should not touch the cutting, so you may need to insert 1-2 sticks in the pot to keep the polythene off the cutting. 5) Care For Your Nerium Cutting Put the pot indoors where it will get several hours of bright but indirect sunlight. A spot under a sunny window covered by a gauzy curtain is ideal. The cutting should not be subjected to cold temperature or undue heat, but normal room temperature is fine. Water daily but in strict moderation so that the medium is kept continuously moist. Every 2 days remove the polythene bag or sheet for about an hour, and you can remove it entirely after about 10 days. 6) Watch For Plants Taking Root The cutting will take up to 4 weeks or more before it shows external signs of having taken root. Your indicator as to whether or not all is well is from the original leaves, so if they do not wilt or wither, this is usually a good sign. Soon after you observe emerging foliage buds, very gradually decrease the frequency and quantity of water and start to expose the incipient plant to increasing periods of morning sunlight. Allow the little plant to grow and put out a few sets of full-grown leaves before you pot on.
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Grow Oleander Varieties In Decorative Containers - They Look Great Outside The Home
IN THIS GUIDE Are Oleander Suited To Containers? Which Containers Are Best? Which Growing Medium Is Best? Potting Up Oleander Potted Oleander Care Oleanders are big, well-branched plants that impart a Mediterranean atmosphere to the garden or to the porch – or even by your front door. These sun-loving evergreens have very pretty foliage that is comprised of small, lanceolate leaves in various beautiful shades of green, and some varieties even have variegated foliage. All varieties produce lots of little salver-shaped, sometimes cup-shaped, flowers throughout the summer and into autumn. Colours include white, pink and resin tones ranging from delicate pastels to striking vibrant reds. Oleanders are frost-tender, warm-weather plants that are fuss-free and remarkably easy to grow if you simply protect them from the cold. Are Oleander Suited To Containers? Not only can you grow Oleander in pots, but oleander varieties in decorative containers are also often placed near the front door of homes. Also, these big evergreens can stay in their big pots outdoors year-round. It’s actually better to grow your oleanders in pots in the UK, as these frost-tender shrubs have a hardiness rating of H3, meaning they cannot survive through the winter in most parts of the UK if planted in open ground. Which Containers Are Best? It is most important for the container to have drainage holes as the soil must drain very well. Other than that, we suggest a sturdy pot in the form of a truncated cone or truncated pyramid. Feel free to use a decorative container made of synthetic material. As a general rule, the height of the container should be about half the height of the above-soil height of the plant. Oleanders are quite big with fully-grown plants averaging 2m in height and 1.5m in spread. So, no matter which variety you grow, at some point you will need a large container. Since most UK gardeners will almost surely be moving the plant indoors sometime in the autumn and shifting it back outdoors in spring, you may wish to keep in mind the size and weight of a container-bound oleander variety. “I recommend trying moving your pot size around before planting it, as with any large shrub,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “This is particularly true for Oleander because it will need to be moved in and out every winter. “A sack trolley is an indispensable piece of equipment but make sure there is room to manoeuvre and support for going up or down slopes or stairs.” Which Growing Medium Is Best? Oleander is one of those unusual shrubs that will struggle if grown in rich, fertile soil. Put it in poor soil and it is relatively content. For best results, take a mixed loam and amend with a very conservative quantity (around 25%) of organic compost. Soil should be very well-draining, so incorporate grit or perlite, especially if the sand content is low. The optimal soil pH for oleanders is slightly alkaline but they will cope in neutral soil. Potting Up Oleander Oleander’s growth rate can vary significantly depending on your location in the UK, so select your container size accordingly. The warmer and more humid the weather, the faster it will grow. In most parts of the UK you can pot up oleander to the next pot size up. However, in the balmiest regions of the country, especially if you have noticed fast growth, you may as well pot on to a pot 2 sizes up. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? One, full-stop. Potted Oleander Care Oleanders need regular watering. Soil should be kept moist but not soaked, especially during summer and hot weather and especially for young plants. In such conditions, you may well need to water even every day. Mature, established plants, even in containers, can get by if you skip a watering or two. Outdoors, keep the pot in a south-facing, sheltered location in full sun. In the less cold regions of the British Isles, during the summer you can certainly keep the container in any old place outdoors. However, you may keep your potted oleander plants outdoors only when the temperature is 10°C or higher. Anything lower and they need to be brought indoors. When inside, keep the container by a (closed) window where it will get full sun through the pane. The window should have to have an eastern-to-southern aspect and normal room temperature will suit these plants very well. In the middle of spring when the weather has warmed up, you may shift a mature, established oleander directly outdoors, but a young, growing plant should undergo a process of hardening over at least 4-5 days before being left outdoors. Oleanders do not need fertilising. However, if you wish, in mid-spring just after you observe fresh growth you can work in slow-release granules into the soil. Alternatively, apply a liquid fertiliser once in mid-spring and once in mid-summer.
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Growing Crape Myrtle - Stick To Southern Coastal Climates And Sheltered Gardens
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Crape Myrtle? Where To Grow How To Plant Crape Myrtle Ongoing Plant Care References ‘Crape Flower’ or ‘Crape Myrtle’ is an attractive shrub or small tree which has attractive flowers in the summer and early autumn. Crape myrtle or crepe myrtle is the common name for Lagerstroemia species. The Lagerstroemia genus contains 48 species of trees and shrubs which are native to southeast Asia and northern Australia.1 These plants are common in landscaping and horticulture in warmer temperate climes. Overview Botanical Name Lagerstroemia indica Common Name(s) Crape Myrtle / Crape Flower Plant Type Tree / Shrub Native Area India, South-East Asia, Northern Australia Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Crinkled crepe-like pink, purple or white flowers When To Plant June-September When To Prune December-February The most commonly used species is the common crepe myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica. Though this plant may not be ideally suited to the cooler climate and growing conditions in the UK, L. indica has an RHS Award of Garden Merit, suggesting it can be grown suitably in these climes. It is a fairly good choice for coastal gardens or gardens in other milder southern areas. Why Grow Crape Myrtle? Crepe myrtle will be a good choice for only very sunny and protected gardens. However, where they do set flower, they can be very attractive ornamental plants. The pink, purple or white flowers, crinkled somewhat like crepe fabric, are borne in summer and early autumn on large, bold panicles up to 20cm long. They will grow up to 4-8m in height with a similar spread. Typically, in the UK, they only grow to the lower end of that range due to the cooler conditions. As well as being prized as ornamental plants for their flowers, crape myrtle also offers interest throughout much of the year. These plants are also prized for their healthy lush foliage in spring, which may emerge red with some varietals. In summer, the flowers bring a pop of colour and yet even after they fade, these plants can also have amazing autumn foliage, with gold, yellow and orange hues. Even in winter, these plants can have some ornamental appeal, with interesting peeling bark in a greyish-orange colour which flakes off to reveal a smoother underside. Where To Grow Crape myrtle requires a warm, sheltered and sunny spot. It is H3 hardy, but they do become hardier as the wood ripens in the sun and the plants become established. In fact, dormant plants can potentially be hardy down to around -10°C if the wood is well-ripened. However, this is a plant which will usually require the protection of a sunny south-facing wall to flower successfully in the UK, and the flowering will usually only be successful in the UK during warm summers, even in the south. “Lagerstroemia indica is most suited to coastal climates in southern Britain or a sheltered garden in urban areas,” adds Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “These locations will be substantially warmer in winter and more benign for young L. indica trees. “If grown in more northerly or inland locations, care will have to be taken to protect plants during the coldest winter weather.” Where outdoors conditions are not suitable, crape myrtle might be grown in a large container under glass, as long as the conditions are light and bright enough as these plants cannot grow in shade. Whether growing in the ground or in a container, crape myrtle will require free-draining conditions. Generally, it can be tolerant of a range of different soil types and soil pH levels but will tend not to do quite so well in heavily alkaline soils. It can grow in nutritionally poor soils and is relatively drought-tolerant once established. Crape myrtle roots spread out a long way, but they are not invasive or strong, so can sometimes be good choices for planting near paving, paths or driveways. How To Plant Crape Myrtle Unfortunately, crape myrtle does not transplant well, so plants are usually purchased as large specimens with well-developed root balls. Plants can be purchased and planted in late spring or early summer, as soon as all risk of frost has passed in your area. If you have seen an amazing crape myrtle in a friend’s or neighbour’s garden, you might also be able to get a plant of your own by taking cuttings. Crape myrtle does not usually set seed successfully in the UK, but the plants can be propagated by means of softwood cuttings taken in late spring, or by means of semi-ripe cuttings (given some bottom heat in a propagator) in the summer months. Dwarf cultivars and other smaller cultivars to be grown indoors or moved undercover during the winter months are best planted in late spring or early summer too. These should be placed in a container with good drainage, in a multipurpose peat-free growing medium with added grit. Ongoing Plant Care Watering Crape myrtle grown outdoors in a suitable spot is fairly drought tolerant once established, but it will require regular watering until established. Although they need free-draining conditions, moist soil will be best for speedy growth. Try to make sure that soil remains moist throughout the year while avoiding the creation of waterlogged conditions. Remember that if you are growing crape myrtle in a container, you will need to water it more frequently, especially over the summer months. Feeding When growing in the ground, crape myrtle will not require regular feeding. The addition of organic mulch around the base of the tree or shrub each spring should provide sufficient fertility. However, in containers, it may be beneficial to feed your plant with an organic liquid plant feed which is balanced in the spring, and a potash-rich feed in the summer to promote flowering. Overwintering A thick carbon-rich mulch can help to protect plant roots in winter. As borderline hardy plants, crape myrtles not brought indoors or under cover may also need to be protected with a covering such as horticultural fleece when heavy frosts threaten, especially when they are fairly young and the wood has not ripened as much to improve hardiness. Pruning Crape myrtles are in RHS pruning group 1, which means they naturally form a well-branched framework and usually only need light pruning if they need any pruning at all. Light pruning should be undertaken in the spring. However, these plants are tolerant of harder pruning if required. Some gardeners traditionally hard-pruned crape myrtles in a process known as Crepe Murder.2 Cutting a crape myrtle back very hard, and lopping off all the tops, encourages the shrub or tree to put energy into producing new branches and leaves rather than flowers. This is said to give larger blooms the following season. However, this practice is not recommended, for a number of reasons. For one thing, larger flowers on new branches in profusion can cause them to droop and they may break. For another thing, the knobbly growth this creates at the point where cuts were made makes the plant more susceptible to disease and can also look unsightly. Also, fresh new growth is far less hardy than seasoned wood, so plants treated in this way are far less likely to make it through the winter in the UK climate, and you will miss out on the beauty of the older wood. Companion Planting If you are trying to create a Mediterranean-style garden, then a crape myrtle could be a good choice. Crape myrtles work well with bougainvillaea, hibiscus, Mediterranean fruit trees, and a range of Mediterranean vegetables and herbs. If you have a suitably sunny and warm garden, crape myrtle could be an attractive ornamental option to consider. References 1. Lagerstroemia L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanical Gardens. Retrieved May 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:25461-1#children 2. Crepe Myrtle Pruning – Why, When, and How to do It. (2022, December 21). Trees.com. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.trees.com/gardening-and-landscaping/crepe-myrtle-pruning
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Maple Society Chairman On 3 Issues That Are Common With Acer Plants
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Environmental Issues 2) Verticillium Wilt 3) Pest Problems References Whether you are growing them in the soil in your garden, or have a smaller type in a pot, you should find Acers a relatively hassle-free addition to your space. However, as always in gardening, there are times when things don’t go entirely according to plan. Some of the most common growing problems and issues you may encounter when growing around maples are: Environmental Issues – which can cause leaf scorch. Diseases – such as verticillium wilt and other fungal issues. Pest Problems – such as aphids and horse chestnut scale. We’ll take a look at these most common issues and problems below, so read on to find out a little more. 1) Environmental Issues Many of the issues which can arise when growing maples can be prevented by understanding the growing needs of these plants and placing them in the right location. Acers typically prefer a site in full sun or partial shade, in a sheltered spot out of drying winds. The soil or growing medium must remain moist, but should also be free-draining since waterlogging can be a problem. They tend to prefer acidic or neutral soil but can grow very well in all but the most alkaline of soil environments and are far less fussy about soil pH than many people imagine. Leaf Scorch The popular Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) can be prone to leaf scorch. In fact, this is the most common issue encountered when growing these plants in the UK.1 If you are growing a type with heavily dissected leaves then you are particularly likely to encounter this problem. Leaf scorch is when leaves turn brown on the tips and may curl or shrivel up. Brown leaves on Acers are commonly caused by environmental stresses, such as frosts, drying winds, waterlogging, drought or intense sun. Leaf scorch occurs whenever leaves lose moisture more quickly than water can be taken up by the roots of the plant. Fortunately, though it can look unsightly, the damage to the leaves is rarely long term and most Acers will recover as conditions improve. 2) Verticillium Wilt “The most common problems maple enthusiasts may encounter are Pseudomonas bacterial infection and vascular diseases produced by the Fusarium and Verticillium fungi,” explains Agustin Coello-Vera, Chairman of The Maple Society. Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease borne in the soil which can impact a range of plants – maples included. This disease can cause maple leaves to yellow, wilt and die back. Though this problem can arise throughout the year, it is most likely to strike during hot weather in summer. The fungal issue begins in the roots, and as the problem spreads, brown or black streaks can be seen in woody tissue under the bark and branch dieback may occasionally occur. Good garden hygiene is key to preventing the spread of this soil-borne disease. Unfortunately, if this problem is present in the soil, an infection can recur. Acers are one of the plants most susceptible to this, so if you have an outbreak, it would be better to select more resistant options for your garden. There are also some other fungal issues that can cause problems for Acers, especially when the environmental growing conditions leave something to be desired. “If your leaves are turning yellow or are off colour and it is not autumn, this could be due to disease or fungal issues like Verticillium wilt. “Equally the leaf discolouration can be due to pest attack, exposure to cold, conditions too dry, conditions too wet, too much sun, or it could also be something called Chlorosis (a nutrient deficiency),” says Dan Ori. Dan explains that Chlorosis can be common in Japanese maples grown in alkaline conditions. “To combat Chlorosis in Acers caused by high pH conditions, repot or top-dress with ericaceous compost and use rainwater if possible.” 3) Pest Problems Finally, though these are not usually such major problems for maple growers, your Acer may also be plagued by pests. Aphids & Horse Chestnut Scale Aphids, for example, are one sap-sucking species that can be attracted to Acers and reduce a plant in vigour a little if the infestation is severe. Horse chestnut scale is another pest that can be encountered when growing Acer in a garden. Luckily, both of these pests rarely become extreme problems and by adopting the principles and practices of integrated pest management and organic gardening approaches, it is usually possible to keep an ecosystem in balance. Remember, you need to have some pests in your garden, so the goal is not to eradicate them entirely but to keep their populations in control. The pests’ presence is required for healthy populations of the beneficial predatory wildlife that helps to keep their numbers down. References 1. Acer: leaf scorch. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/problems/acer-leaf-scorch
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‘Emerald Gaiety’ And 'Pink Delight' - Here's 15 Euonymus Shrubs In Various Forms
IN THIS GUIDE 1) E. alatus ‘Compactus’ 2) E. alatus ‘Fire Ball’ 3) E. cornutus var. quinquecornutus 4) E. europaeus ‘Red Cascade’ 5) E. europaeus ‘Thornhayes’ 6) E. fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ 7) E. fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ 8) E. fortunei ‘Emerald Surprise’ 9) E. fortunei ‘Kewensis’ 10) E. fortunei ‘Wolong Ghost’ 11) E. hamiltonianus ‘Pink Delight’ 12) E. japonicus ‘Microphyllus Aureovariegatus’ 13) E. japonicus ‘Chollipo’ 14) E. phellomanus 15) E. planipes ‘Sancho’ Euonymus shrubs are popular shrubs that can be evergreen or deciduous and can differ greatly in their size, growth habit and appearance. If you would like to grow euonymus in your garden then you may become overwhelmed by the many different species and cultivars that you might choose. Hopefully my list of 15 handpicked varieties that are my personal favourites might help you make up your mind! Bear in mind that all of the varieties in this list can be grown in full sun or partial shade in an exposed or sheltered location and can grow in any fertile soil. 1) E. alatus ‘Compactus’ COMMON NAME(S): Compact winged spindle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green, pink & red FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Orange, purple and red FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This compact form of winged-spindle is a small deciduous shrub growing around 1m tall and 1.5m wide. It develops prominent corky ridges on the branches and the foliage turns red in the autumn. Small green flowers are followed by red-purple fruits with orange seeds inside in autumn. 2) E. alatus ‘Fire Ball’ COMMON NAME(S): winged spindle ‘fire ball’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & red FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Orange and purple FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn A dense and round-formed deciduous shrub which grows to around 1.5m, this is a slightly larger varietal. Its matt-green foliage turns a vivid, fiery red in the autumn months. Again, you can also see small green flowers in spring which are followed by reddish-purple fruits and as the year wears on, these fruits split open to reveal orange seeds. 3) E. cornutus var. quinquecornutus COMMON NAME(S): five-horned spindle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Orange, purple & pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Five-horned spindle is a deciduous, spreading shrub which grows to around 2m tall and 3m wide. It has narrow, lance-like leaves of dark green. In summer, this shrub bears small purplish-green flowers which are followed by pinky-purple fruits. The fruits have five slender horn-like protuberances which look like a jester’s hat and break open to reveal bright orange seeds. 4) E. europaeus ‘Red Cascade’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘red cascade’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & red FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Orange & pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This European spindle is a large and vigorous deciduous shrub, growing to around 3m. It has oval leaves that turn bright red in autumn and small yellow-green flowers, which are followed by bright rose-pink fruits that break open to reveal the orange seeds within. 5) E. europaeus ‘Thornhayes’ COMMON NAME(S): white spindle ‘thornhayes’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & bronze FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Orange & pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn / Winter Another great European spindle to grow, this option grows to around the same size as the above and is also deciduous. It has dark green foliage that develops bronze tints in autumn. The flowers are green and white; inconspicuous but rich in nectar. These are followed by bright pink fruits with four lobes which break open revealing the orange seeds within, lasting well into winter to bring interest to the garden at the coldest time of year. 6) E. fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ’emerald gaiety’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green, white & pink FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This is a small evergreen euonymus that forms small bushy evergreen shrubs, but will also climb when placed against a wall or fence. The rounded green leaves have an irregular white margin around each one and are tinged pink in the winter. Unfortunately, the flowers are rarely seen. This variety is H5 hardy. 7) E. fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ’emerald ‘n’ gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green, yellow & pink FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This dwarf evergreen shrub has a spreading habit and grows around 1m tall with a spread of 1.5m. It has green leaves with broad yellow margins, tinged pinkish in the winter, and a few small and inconspicuous greenish flowers are sometimes produced in summer. Grow in partial or full shade, or in full sun in a moist location. 8) E. fortunei ‘Emerald Surprise’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ’emerald surprise’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green & yellow FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Emerald Surprise’ is an evergreen growing up to 1m in height with a spread of 1.5m. It has broad leaves that have a bright green hue with broad bright yellow margins, and the leaves are also sometimes tinged pink in the winter. 9) E. fortunei ‘Kewensis’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘kewensis’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green & red FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen Growing just 10cm or so tall and spreading up to around 50cm, this small evergreen shrub forms a dense mat of ground cover. It has tiny leathery leaves of green, which can get red tints in autumn. “E. fortunei ‘Kewensis’ is a great ground cover plant, helping to retain moisture and suppress weeds, but I find that is also loose enough to allow bulbs to burst through in spring,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. 10) E. fortunei ‘Wolong Ghost’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘wolong ghost’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen This is another mat-forming evergreen euonymus variety but it can also be a climber when provided with some support. This has slender dark green foliage with prominent pale veining. 11) E. hamiltonianus ‘Pink Delight’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘pink delight’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green and pink FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This deciduous spindle shrub can grow between 2.5-4m in height with a spread of 1.5-2.5m. It has large oval mid-green hued leaves which turn a dark pink in the autumn. In summer, the shrub bears small white and green flowers and these are followed by pink fruits which split open to reveal dark pink seeds. 12) E. japonicus ‘Microphyllus Aureovariegatus’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘Microphyllus Aureovariegatus’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green & yellow FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen Also known as ‘Ovatus Aureus’, this is a bushy and medium-sized evergreen with bright yellow-gold oval leaves that later mature to yellowish-green with wide yellow margins. 13) E. japonicus ‘Chollipo’ COMMON NAME(S): spindle ‘chollipo’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: Green & cream FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This is a busy evergreen shrub with rounded leaves. The leaves are a rich deep green, with yellowish-cream margins. Again, this plant will not typically produce flowers or fruits. 14) E. phellomanus COMMON NAME(S): corky spindle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & yellow FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Green & yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Pink FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn Corky spindle is a large deciduous shrub which grows up to 4m tall with a spread of 2.5m. It has corky-winged branches, mid-green foliage, and greenish-yellow flowers that are followed by fruits with a bright pink hue in the autumn. 15) E. planipes ‘Sancho’ COMMON NAME(S): flat-stalked spindle ‘sancho’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: Green & red FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Orange & red FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn This cultivar is a free-flowering variety of flat-stalked spindles. The flowers lead to an abundance of red fruits in the autumn, which add visual appeal alongside the red autumn foliage. Of course, these are not the only options you might consider, but when looking for a euonymus variety to grow in your garden, these options listed above can be a good place to start.
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11 Willow Varieties With Interesting Attributes And Habits - Some Can Be Grown As Shrubs
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Golden Weeping Willow 2) Corkscrew Willow 3) Goat / Pussy Willow 4) White Willow 5) Flamingo Willow 6) Blue-Stem Willow More Willow Types 7) Basket Willow 8) Weeping Willow 9) Eared Willow 10) Purple Willow 11) Crack Willow References ‘The Willow Tree’ as we know it is actually rather more than one tree – over a hundred in fact. But that is far from all: Willow Trees are members of Genus Salix which comprises over 400 species – many of them are shrubs, both upright and creeping.1 Many Willow varieties are first-rate landscaping and architectural trees for any number of reasons. These attractively-branching small to medium-large trees are shapely and elegant to begin with, and they are amenable to pruning and shaping. Some species grow to over 15m while other varieties’ sizes are very much on the small side so they make perfect trees or large shrubs for small front yards. Some species are pruned and trimmed to create living hedges. Many varieties’ trees bend and sway while producing a melancholy sough as the wind rustles through them which is a quality not many trees share with the Willow. And then there are those hues the foliage comes in – yellow-green, bright green, chalk green, pink, silvery, bronzy, and golden! Many species’ foliage also changes in shade with the season, usually becoming progressively deeper and warmer. Tortured Willow The various Willow species have weak wood and weaker wood. But the flip side is that Willow wood is pliable with much more flex than other woods and it is also lightweight; indeed, a particular type of willow, Salix alba, is the only wood used for making cricket bats. In addition, Willow is the wood of choice for baskets and wickerwork, and also for divining rods, wands, and woodcraft including sculpture. 1) Golden Weeping Willow Botanical Name: S. × sepulcralis var. chrysocoma One of the more robust Willow species, and is also one of the most aesthetic and popular. Those well-known weeping branches dripping with weepy foliage, as it were, make a beautiful sight and more so because of the golden sheen that the young green leaves have, and which they revert to in autumn. A height of 8-10m is usual for this species but some specimens can grow to 15m. Uncommonly for willows, this variety is usually monoecious though dioecious types are also found. This variety has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 2) Corkscrew Willow Botanical Name: S. babylonica var. pekinensis ‘Tortuosa’ The Corkscrew Willow exhibits an upright habit but with a ‘twist’: the limbs, branches and even the leaves are incredibly contorted and twisted as if they have been tortured, hence the name of the tree. Because of this rare attribute, it is the form and figure of the tree that is of sculptural interest; as a result, it is when the tree sheds its leaves in autumn that the very uncommon character of this tree comes into focus. It is relatively fast-growing and reaches a height of 12-15m. It bears mentioning that the extreme and extraordinary contrast that two species of the same genus, Weeping Willow and Tortured Willow, make with one another is unparalleled in the Plant Kingdom as one is entirely graceful and flowing and the other so impossibly gnarled and jagged. 3) Goat / Pussy Willow Botanical Name: S. caprea One of the species native to the British Isles. It has two distinctive features. First, unlike most Willows this one has broad, oval leaves; second, it produces fairly big, furry cream-grey catkins with the male ones being bigger and thicker. These bring to mind a cats’ tails, hence the tree’s informal name. It can be pruned to grow as a shrub though it is usually (fortunately) grown as a tree. It is on the small side, reaching a height of 8-12m. 4) White Willow Botanical Name: S. alba This is a native of the British Isles where it is found in nature by riverbanks and other waterways. It has some interesting attributes and even more interesting habits. It is one of the fastest-growing Willows and also one of the largest, attaining heights between 20-25m at maturity. As a result, in high winds, even by Willow standards, its boughs break frequently. For this reason it is usually carefully pruned. Its narrowly lanceolate leaves, though of a dull, bluish-green hue, appear silvery-white from a distance, especially the undersides, and this effect gives this species its informal name. 5) Flamingo Willow Botanical Name: S. integra ‘Hakuro Nishiki’ The Flamingo Willow is technically a shrub but makes the smallest of trees with an average height of 2m, topping out at 2.5m. The narrow, lanceolate leaves at up to 10cm long further set off the small size of the tree. The defining characteristic of this highly ornamental tree is colours – and more colours. Fresh spring leaves are pink; as they mature they become variegated pink and green. At the same time its catkins are a creamy yellow or golden yellow. Summer foliage is predominantly green but with pink and creamy variegation, and when the leaves start to fall in autumn, you still get colour as the exposed branches are a rich bronzy reddish-orange. This little tree is ideal for a townhome’s courtyard garden. RHS Award of Garden Merit. “This variety works well as a top grafted tree in a container and can be trained to give a spiky lollypop look,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “These flamingo lollipops can be utilised well in pairs for framing entrances. I still prefer this plant grown as a shrub, but no matter how you grow it, I recommend cutting it back each winter to enjoy the best colourful growth.” 6) Blue-Stem Willow Botanical Name: S. irrorata Our last entry, is not really a ‘Willow Tree’; rather, it must be called a Willow shrub. Tree or shrub, this species is also spectacular because of its season-long display of colours, and it too is an excellent choice for a townhome’s courtyard garden as it grows to only 2-2.5m with a spread of 3-4m. Numerous branches emerge from ground level. Even as they sprout they are of a light blue through lilac to lavender hue, a colouring it maintains in some or another shade through to autumn when it is particularly striking when the branches are bare. In late winter it bears small white flowers. Spring ushers in even more colours as this Willow produces grey catkins with prominent red anthers. Yet another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. More Willow Types 7) Basket Willow Botanical Name: S. viminalis 8) Weeping Willow Botanical Name: S. babylonica 9) Eared Willow Botanical Name: S. aurita 10) Purple Willow Botanical Name: S. purpurea 11) Crack Willow Botanical Name: S. fragilis Remember that these trees are notorious for snapped limbs after a minor storm or even high winds – so be careful where you grow them! References 1. Harris, S. (n.d.-d). Salix species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/st/Salix
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8 Trusty Types Of Dogwood, Including Garden Writer Nic Wilson's Favourites
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Kousa 2) Dogwood ‘Wietings Select’ 3) Kousa ‘Miss Satomi’ 4) Stiff Dogwood 5) Flowering Dogwood 6) Flowering Dogwood ‘Sunset’ 7) Giant Dogwood 8) Wedding Cake Tree References Cornus is quite a cosmopolitan genus. Species are native to all of North America, Europe, and nearly all of Asia except for Kazakhstan and its surrounding countries and India.1 Species also grow in regions of Eastern-Central Africa and the north-western hump of South America. All of the desirable Dogwood tree varieties are Far Eastern or American ones. “I think I’d find it hard to be cheerful in the colder months without my dogwoods,” says Nic Wilson, a Garden Writer. “Winter is the season when I need the lift that comes from seeing a blazing mass of ‘Midwinter Fire’ or the morning light shining on the vivid green ‘Flaviramea’ stems in the borders.” C. florida The total number of species in Cornus number about 50-60 (not including hybrids and cultivars) – most of them are deciduous but a few are evergreen.2 Dogwood trees are cherished in many regions of the United States and some even claim it for their own, as has Virginia: a Dogwood species, Cornus florida, is the state tree and its ‘bract flower’ is the state flower.3 Varieties of Dogwood trees differ in the colours and types of their small or insignificant flowers encircled by much more attractive and colourful bracts, the hues and edibility of their berries or drupes and by the kind of colours they may display in autumn. The simple leaves are usually ovate and opposite, and of a mid-green to dark green tone. The aim of this section is not to list the most popular or most desirable varieties, and it is certainly not meant to provide an exhaustive list. Rather, the intention is to illustrate the enormous diversity in size, form, and seasonal display of colours. By ‘flowers’ we refer to the more attractive colourful bracts. 1) Kousa Botanical Name: C. kousa Originating in China, Japan and the Koreas, is the species from which the majority of the most popular and desirable cultivars descend. It typically reaches a height of about 7m. In spring it produces a lush display of greenish-white flowers that are often pink-tipped, with light red berries following in summer. In autumn there is another lovely display of deep reds and purples. In winter this species’s patchy, somewhat scaly, tan-coloured bark comes into view. 2) Dogwood ‘Wietings Select’ Botanical Name: C. kousa var. chinensis ‘Wietings Select’ Also grows to about 7m. Its flowers are pure white, developing pink edges and tinges, and the late summer berries are a saturated tone of pink. In autumn the foliage puts on an amazing show of deep, rich reds. 3) Kousa ‘Miss Satomi’ Botanical Name: C. kousa ‘Satomi’ Grows to your choice of a small tree of 4-5m or a tall shrub. It is covered by candy pink flowers in summer. More colour follows in autumn as the (inedible) fruit and the foliage both present attractive tones of light and rich reds. RHS Award of Garden Merit. Many other Kousa cultivars are available, ranging in height from 4-8m, and producing foliage, flowers, and berries in various appealing light and dark colours. 4) Stiff Dogwood Botanical Name: C. foemina Also gives you a choice between growing it as a small tree of 6-7m or a tall shrub. Its flowers are white and relatively small and in autumn the foliage display includes deep and rich hues of wine red and purples. But the twist on this tree is that its late summer berries are blue, and a popping tone of blue at that. 5) Flowering Dogwood Botanical Name: C. florida Is the ‘main’ American species which grows to about 7m. In mid-spring it starts to produce an abundance of white or pinkish flowers, followed by vermilion or light red berries in late summer. Autumn brings a blaze of reds and purples as the foliage changes colour. This species is, unfortunately, the most susceptible to cornus anthracnose. 6) Flowering Dogwood ‘Sunset’ Botanical Name: C. florida ‘Sunset’ Grows to about 7m and ‘improves’ upon the mother species in both foliage and flowers. The leaves are wonderfully variegated, being bright green in the centre with a substantial edging of bright yellow. Late spring and early summer bring bright pink flowers, often with white flushes. The late summer and early autumn show comprise of red berries, with the foliage turning reddish-purple as the season progresses. 7) Giant Dogwood Botanical Name: C. controversa Lives up to its name – at least where Dogwoods are concerned! – reaching 15m heights. It has a wonderful tiered branching pattern that can be observed in winter when the tree is bare but admired even more when it is in flower. And those flowers are plentiful and of a very rich creamy shade. Autumn brings different colours as the berries on this tree are blue-black while the leaves display shades of purple and violet. 8) Wedding Cake Tree Botanical Name: C. controversa ‘Variegata’ A smaller version of C. controversa, topping out at about 8m. This dinky tree also has that wonderful tiered branching pattern which is most marked when in full leaf. The leaves are variegated – green in the centre with thick cream edges. The late spring to early summer flowers are white-white and the berries following them in late summer and early autumn make the strongest of contrasts with their bluish-black colour. RHS Award of Garden Merit recipient. References 1. Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/dogwood/ 2. Atkinson, B. S., Stockey, R. A., & Rothwell, G. W. (2016). Cretaceous origin of dogwoods: an anatomically preserved Cornus (Cornaceae) fruit from the Campanian of Vancouver Island. Peer J, 4, e2808. https://doi.org/10.7717/peerj.2808 3. American Dogwood. (2017, December 26). State Symbols USA. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://statesymbolsusa.org/symbol-official-item/virginia/state-flower/american-dogwood
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Is Arborvitae Right For Your Garden? Here's How To Grow Thuja Hedging
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Is Arborvitae Right For Your Garden? Common Varieties Where To Grow Thuja How To Grow Thuja Ongoing Care References Arborvitaes are well-known conifers and hedging plants which are used in many UK gardens – but are these the right option for you? Overview Botanical Name Thuja Common Name(s) Arborvitae / Tree of Life Plant Type Coniferous Tree Native Area North America and Eastern Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Evergreen When To Plant Spring or Autumn When To Prune Spring There are five species within the Thuja genus, all of which are widely grown as ornamental trees in many gardens around the world, and are commonly used as hedging plants. Sometimes, other plants are also referred to as arborvitae, including a number of species which were formerly included in the Thuja genus.1 These include, for example, Platycladus orientalis, formerly known as Thuja orientalis. This is a varied genus which can include a range of cultivars of different sizes and different appearances. Some arborvitae can be towering trees that reach metres high, while others can be smallish shrubs suitable for container growing. Is Arborvitae Right For Your Garden? Arborvitae are varied plants which can work well in many gardens. However, it is important to understand that some can grow extremely vigorously and plants that were not chosen with care may quickly outgrow their location. As well as thinking about the needs of the plants themselves when choosing where to place them, you also need to make sure that you think about how large they will eventually grow and their habit and form. Arborvitae can be useful for making privacy screens and hedgerows to shield unsightly views or provide a buffer against traffic noise or pollution. They can provide year-round evergreen interest, and there are a number of interesting ornamental varieties to choose from. These can ensure that a bed or border in your garden looks lush and attractive throughout the winter months. Arborvitaes are all coniferous evergreens which are perfect for a low-maintenance scheme. They are easy to cultivate and do not require a lot of care. However, if growing arborvitae as hedging, the extra work involved in pruning and maintaining a neat hedge should be considered. Common Varieties Thujas which are grown in gardens in the UK are native to North America and Asia. The two North American species are: T. occidentalis T. plicata And two of the three Asian species are: T. koraiensis T. standishii There’s also a hybrid between Thuja plicata and Thuja shandishii known as ‘Green Giant’. T. occidentalis T. occidentalis cultivars commonly grown in the UK include: ‘Amber Glow’ ‘Danica’ ‘Degroot’s Spire’ ‘Emeraude’ ‘Golden Tuffet’ ‘Holmstrup’ ‘Rheingold’ T. plicata T. plicata cultivars include: ‘Atrovirens’ ‘Aurea’ ‘Goldy ‘4ever” ‘Irish Gold’ ‘Stoneham Gold’ ‘Whipcord’ ‘Zebrina’ Where To Grow Thuja Arborvitae can be grown as stand-alone specimen trees, in mixed borders, whilst a number of varieties are also commonly used to create hedgerows. Wherever they are used within a garden design, they will thrive in full sun or in partial shade. They can cope with most soil types but will do best in soil which is moist yet free-draining, and they are unfussy when it comes to soil pH. Thujas are mostly H6 or H7 hardy, fully hardy in even the coldest and most northerly locations in the British Isles. These trees and shrubs can vary broadly in their growth habit, size, form and appearance. Larger options should be used only with caution and may not be suitable for smaller gardens, whilst many smaller arborvitae cultivars may even be grown in containers. Where exactly arborvitaes are best planted will depend on which varieties you have chosen to grow. How To Grow Thuja Arborvitaes are best planted in spring, between March and May, or in the autumn between September and November. While you can also plant out arborvitae through the summer months, it may be more difficult to get the plants to establish properly when the weather is warm and more dry. Watering well during establishment is especially important if planting in summer. Planting holes for arborvitae planted in the ground should be twice as wide and deep as the root ball to allow the roots to spread out easily as the plants become established. Water in well and firm back the soil gently around the base of your new additions. Upon planting in the ground, be sure to mulch well with plenty of organic matter, to retain moisture and to provide slow-release fertility for the plants. Spacing, particularly for hedging, will very much depend on the variety or varieties of arborvitae that you have chosen. Make sure that you understand the expected height and width of the options you have chosen in order to create a hedge without breaks which will not be too overcrowded. Ongoing Care As mentioned above, arborvitaes are low-maintenance plants which won’t require a lot of time and care, especially once established. Watering Arborvitae will usually need to be watered regularly over the summer as they become established. However, when grown in the ground in the UK after this initial period, they should be happy with natural rainfall and you will likely only need to provide water during periods of drought. If growing smaller cultivars in containers, you will need to water more frequently as containers are more liable to drying out. Make sure you water well but ensure that the water can drain away relatively freely so that the conditions do not become waterlogged. Feeding Arborvitaes which are planted in relatively fertile soil and mulched with organic matter should not require additional feeding. However, trees grown in containers may benefit from the occasional watering with a balanced, organic liquid feed over the period of active growth. Pruning Arborvitae grown as stand-alone specimens and in beds and borders will not usually require any pruning at all. Many of them have well-formed slender pyramid shapes and should not be pruned, but if you are growing as a hedge, you will need to prune your arborvitae. There are several different schools of thought about when to prune arborvitae hedges. The first says that it is best to prune in late spring or early summer, usually in May or June, to remove any winter damage and prune for shape as new growth starts to appear. The problem with this is that you may disturb nesting birds. The second school of thought says that it is best to prune in late summer or early autumn, at the tail end of the hedge’s growing season, which helps retain a shape which can shed snowfall easily and is less likely to disturb native birds. Some gardeners combine both ideas and prune twice yearly, once early in the summer and then again in late summer or early autumn to tidy things up after summer growth. As long as nesting birds are not disturbed and you have the time, then I’d suggest that this gives the best overall effect. Whenever you decide to prune, arborvitae hedges will need pruning to keep them in check. “Make sure you have sufficient space when using Thuja for hedging,” shares Colin Skelly, a recipient of the Master of Horticulture title from the RHS. “Unless the plant is regularly cut back (which diminishes its status as a low maintenance option), it will have a tendency to put on more growth. “Eventually, this will lead to needing to cut back into brown woody areas, which won’t grow back.” Just remember that you should only ever cut green growth and not cut into the brown woody part, as this will not grow back. Propagation If you wish to propagate new arborvitae to extend a hedge, perhaps, or create specimens to plant elsewhere in your garden, you can do so by taking semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer or early autumn. Introducing arborvitae into your garden does involve careful thought and it is very important to choose a variety that is suited to its growing location and your needs. But, if you do decide to introduce this type of coniferous tree to your garden, then it can be a useful and low-maintenance addition. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998b, July 20). Arborvitae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/arborvitae
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