Growing
This Is How To Make A Homemade Hanging Basket As A DIY Low-Cost Option
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Preparing The Basket 2) Choosing The Liner 3) Adding The Soil 4) Place Your Plants 5) The Arrangement 6) Plant Care & Maintenance A homemade hanging basket can brighten up porches, walls and other outdoor areas with a touch of unique charm. There are many reasons why hanging baskets are hugely popular across the UK and beyond. For starters, they’re a quick and easy way to add colour and vibrancy at eye level, transforming porches, balconies and exterior walls with their stunning displays. What’s more, their self-contained nature makes them an ideal solution for when space is at a premium, since they don’t even require their own plot of land. This aspect of hanging baskets also means they can be moved around at will to brighten up drab areas of the garden or to reposition them so that they receive more sun exposure. Finally, their elevated position keeps them safe from the prying paws and the attention of cats, rodents, insects and other unwanted pests. It’s no surprise, then, that homeowners up and down the country have a hanging basket or two outside their property. While ready-made baskets can be obtained for a reasonable price from garden centres everywhere, there are a handful of advantages to fashioning your own. Firstly, doing so gives you the freedom to tailor the design of the basket (and the floral arrangement inside it) to your exact preferences. It also gives you greater flexibility in terms of its size, structure and positioning and, best of all, the sense of achievement and connection with something you’ve created with your own two hands is not to be beaten. 1) Preparing The Basket Before you do anything else, it’s necessary to select the type of frame you want to form the basis of your basket. As a general rule, it’s a good idea to choose the largest one you can find and which will be supported by the structure to which you are going to attach it to, since bigger dimensions accommodate more flowers and retain more water. Next, you’ll want to consider materials. There are a variety of options available here, including wood, vine, wicker, willow, ceramic, terracotta, plastic and wire, among others. Many people prefer a natural aesthetic and so opt for one of the first 4 options, but the choice is entirely yours. Whichever material you do go for, just be sure that it will be strong enough to support all the soil, flowers and moisture within it when full. 2) Choosing The Liner The next step is deciding which type of liner you’d like to use to prevent the soil (and the water) from spilling out of it. Again, this will come down to personal preference, with many people preferring to go au naturale once more. Sphagnum moss, hessian fabric and coir (or coconut fibre) are hugely popular choices since they are made from organic materials and don’t look out of place. Plastic and pressed paperboard are less porous than the options mentioned above, meaning they’re more effective at retaining moisture. You will, however, need to drill drainage holes before putting them into position. Meanwhile, some gardeners swear by the qualities of using an old woolly jumper. Not only does this repurpose an item that would otherwise be discarded, but it’s also stretchy, supportive and permeable, all at the same time. Try not to use a material that is going to leave your plants sat in waterlogged conditions that can cause issues such as root rot. 3) Adding The Soil When it comes to choosing the soil, there are options available that have been specifically engineered for hanging baskets. This targeted compost already contains plant food and water-retaining crystals in its composition, making things easier when it comes to maintaining the basket going forward. However, it’s not necessary to get hold of such a niche product if you find it too difficult or expensive to obtain. Instead, multi-purpose compost is a perfectly acceptable alternative. Again, it’s possible to buy both food and crystals separately and mix them into the soil yourself, but it’s not a deal-breaker. “It’s also worth considering setting up a drip irrigation system in conjunction with a timer so the daily task of watering is removed,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “As well as providing cover for holidays, automated watering systems are inexpensive and relatively easy to set up.” Omitting them simply means you’ll have to water and feed the plants inside on a more regular basis. Fill the basket with your chosen soil up until the first set of holes and tamp it down. 4) Place Your Plants Now comes the fun part – picking your floral selection! Some people prefer to keep things uniform with all plants of the same genus, while others prefer a more contrasting display. If you’re in the latter camp, one useful mantra to keep in mind is “thrill, fill and spill”. This is a popular gardening method for use with hanging baskets. Thrill with architecturally interesting plants, fill with taller specimens that look good and command attention, then spill over the edges of the basket with trailing species. Whichever aesthetic you plan to aim for, you should keep in mind the position of your basket. If it’s in full sun, opt for geraniums, petunias and pansies, but if it’s a shadier part of the garden, think hostas, busy Lizzies and begonias. You should also consider the combination of plants you pick, since some are thirstier than others. For example, geraniums don’t need as much watering as fuchsias, so it’s advisable to keep them separate. See our list of plants for hanging baskets for more inspiration. “If planting a summer basket in the spring, garden centres generally sell plants before the risk of frost has passed,” explains Roy. “So, remember to keep plants protected until the middle or end of May, depending on your location in the UK, when frost risk has passed.” 5) The Arrangement Just like the seating plan at a wedding, it’s absolutely crucial you get your arrangement spot on before you put your plants into the soil, otherwise, you could end up with a sparse, lop-sided or clashing display. One tip is to pop the plants into place while still in their pots, giving you the opportunity to view how they’ll appear once the basket is complete. It’s also a good idea to undertake this stage of the process with the basket on an upturned bucket since you can rotate the bucket and view the basket from all angles without damaging the plants. It should go without saying that taller and more eye-catching plants should be situated in the middle of the basket, while trailers and creepers can provide texture, colour and levels of intrigue at the perimeter. Once you’ve settled upon your chosen arrangement, ease the plants out of their pots, then use the latter to make a hole in the soil. This way, the plants will slide right into position, and then it’s simply a case of filling in the gaps with more compost, leaving at least a half-inch gap below the rim of the basket to prevent water overflow. 6) Plant Care & Maintenance Once planted, you’ll want to give the entire basket a good drink to make sure the soil is nice and moist. Thereafter, it’s a good idea to water it at least once a day for the first few weeks to ensure the plants take root, perhaps even more often in the height of summer. Use a watering can rose to sprinkle the soil rather than soak it, since the latter is more likely to result in the water running right through and leaking out the bottom without offering good coverage of the whole basket. If you do find the basket has become totally dried out (with a crusty layer of soil atop it), don’t be tempted to resort to the hose. Instead, take down your basket and soak it in a basin of water to really allow the soil to become saturated. This course of action is more likely to bring back plants who appear done for. If you aren’t using soil which already contains food, fertilise your baskets regularly according to the packet instructions. Deadhead them frequently to encourage repeat blossoms and bring them into a sheltered space for the winter.
Learn more
Crocus In Pots Are Best Grown With Other Bulbs To Achieve A Cheery Spring Display
IN THIS GUIDE But Can You Plant Crocus Bulbs In Pots? Choosing A Plant Pot Compost For Crocus Planting Crocus In Pots Potted Crocus Care Crocuses are one of the most popular and cheery spring bulbs. We are all familiar with their delightful flowers popping up in sunny glades beneath deciduous trees before their leaves emerge. They also look great when naturalised on lawns or at the front of beds and borders. But Can You Plant Crocus Bulbs In Pots? Crocuses are a wonderful choice for container growing. Small and compact, they can be grown even in relatively small pots and can be grown on their own or with other bulbs for a seasonal display in spring. Combine them with other perennial plants and you might also enjoy a display that can last over a number of years. Growing crocuses in containers does require a little more thought and work than growing them in a more natural way in your garden, but it is certainly not something that is too challenging to do. Choosing A Plant Pot Crocuses have small bulbs (technically corms) that grow into small plants. Though the bulbs will remain alive and burst into new growth each year, the flowers bloom over a relatively short period. This means that crocuses are best combined in containers with other spring bulbs that bloom in the mid and late-spring season, or with other plants that extend the period for which you can enjoy an attractive display. A larger container, one around 40-50cm in width and depth, will allow you to plant crocuses as part of a spring bulb lasagne display or within another mixed display for your garden. One key thing any container bought or made must have is adequate drainage at the base, to provide the free-draining conditions that these spring bulbs require. Compost For Crocus Crocus bulbs are not particularly fussy about soil type, so you don’t need to worry too much about buying or creating a very specific compost type or blend. This is also true of other spring bulbs like daffodils and tulips, so you can simply use any peat-free multipurpose compost mix or growing medium that you either buy or make yourself, with a little grit added to the mix to improve the drainage. Planting Crocus In Pots When planting crocus, you will first have to decide which crocuses you will be growing. The most commonly grown crocuses are those that bloom in the early spring, but there are also those that bloom in autumn, and a few are alpine plants that require more specialist care. Crocuses are typically grown from bulbs planted in the autumn between September and November and you can get away with planting them right up until Christmas, though it is likely that they will bloom later than expected if you plant them this late. Crocus bulbs are typically placed around 7-12cm deep. Make sure that you identify the pointy end of each corm and that these face upwards. If you are creating a bulb lasagne, then crocus bulbs may well make up the top tier of your planting and will be the last to be put into position. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? How many crocus bulbs you can plant in a pot will depend on a number of factors. Of course, you need to consider that pots come in many sizes. Naturally, you also need to think about how many other bulbs or plants you wish to fit into the same container. Potted Crocus Care For most crocuses, place your container in full sun, but make sure you understand the needs and environmental preferences of the particular crocus varieties that you have chosen to grow. Over the winter months, protect crocus bulbs by placing mesh over the top of the plants if squirrels or other pests become a problem. Keep soil moist by watering consistently once green growth emerges if it is dry, but take care not to overwater and always let excess water drain away freely, as Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist, explains: “Although pots outside will require little watering over winter and into early spring, make sure that you check the soil moisture during spells of dry weather. “If the soil dries out you may find that your crocus flowers inconsistently as the plants respond by assuming drought conditions. “I have found that this is most likely to happen in early spring as the weather warms up but you’re not quite yet in the habit of checking watering regularly.” During the colder months, water sparingly if rainfall is lacking, but generally, winter watering won’t be required outdoors. After crocuses flower, make sure you let the leaves remain and die down naturally, so they can work to gather energy that will be stored within the corm for next year. If crocuses become congested, lift and divide the existing clumps in autumn and, if desired, move some of the corms to a different container.
Learn more
Container Chrysanthemums - Experts Recommend Pots With At Least A 30cm Diameter
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Chrysanthemum In Pots? Choosing A Plant Pot Choosing Compost Potting Up Chrysanthemum ‘Mums’ Container Care Chrysanthemums are versatile plants which come in a range of different varieties, with diverse blooms in a staggering array of colours. Some are quite hardy and can sometimes even be grown in the garden year-round, while others must definitely be brought indoors over the winter months. Can You Grow Chrysanthemum In Pots? Chrysanthemums can be an excellent choice for container planting. Hardier garden chrysanthemums make wonderful displays for an autumn garden, while later flowering, more tender types will bloom indoors in a cool room over the winter months. Growing chrysanthemums in pots can require a little more work than growing them in the ground over the summer but can make things easier when it comes to moving chrysanthemums of both types indoors for winter. Dwarf types are naturally well-suited to container growing. Choosing A Plant Pot When choosing a container for your chrysanthemum, it is best to select a pot which is at least 30cm in diameter. As these are plants which require relatively free-draining conditions, it is important to ensure that you choose a container which has good drainage at the base. If you are growing a taller type, remember that it will need staking and the pot should be heavy and stable enough to prevent it from toppling over. Choosing Compost The best way to fill containers for chrysanthemums is with a peat-free John Innes No. 2 compost or a homemade equivalent. Add an organic mulch (such as a homemade compost) over the tops of the pots to retain moisture and add slow-release fertility. Potting Up Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemums can be purchased as newly rooted cuttings or young plants in spring, established young plants in early to mid-summer, or as mature plants in full bloom in late summer or early autumn for an instant display. Pot up the plant you have chosen as required if it is pot-bound in its existing container. How Many ‘Mums’ Can You Plant Per Pot? One chrysanthemum is typically planted in a pot of at least 30cm in diameter. However, you can use a larger container and plant several chrysanthemums at the same time. You might also plant up a mixed larger container display with other plants which like similar conditions and which will aesthetically complement your selected chrysanthemum plants. Remember, the larger the containers you have, the less watering will typically be required, since they will dry out more slowly. “The type of pot will also influence the rate of drying,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Plastic pots retain moisture within the pot whilst terracotta pots allow moisture to evaporate. “The choice will be a trade-off between the size of the pot, its position and the style of the garden.” However, make sure that you will be able to move your containers when you need to do so at the end of the growing season. ‘Mums’ Container Care Water regularly, especially during dry periods over the summer. Never let the growing medium dry out entirely, but take care not to overwater or cause waterlogged conditions. Feed with blood fish and bone to boost growth in April and apply a nitrogen-rich feed to encourage good lush foliage growth in June. Feed early flowering types with a weekly high-potassium feed (such as comfrey tea) during flowering. Pinch out young plants once they reach 20cm in height. Disbud and deadhead as desired to improve blooms or prolong the blooming period. In mild areas during winter, you may get away with placing container-grown chrysanthemums in a more sheltered spot outdoors out of extreme cold and wet conditions. However, it is usually best to move containers with chrysanthemums which have already flowered undercover to a frost-free location where the plants can overwinter in a dormant state. Those more tender types or those that are yet to flower should be potted up and moved indoors, into a cool room inside at around 10°C where they should then flower over the winter months. Take cuttings in spring to propagate new chrysanthemums for your container garden. Look out for problems like yellowing leaves or a lack of flowering, which could suggest a problem with environmental conditions or care, and also remain vigilant for other signs of pests and diseases. If you take good care of your chrysanthemums throughout the year, they should grace your container displays for several years to come.
Learn more
Grow Heather In Pots - It Allows You To Better Control The Acidity And Moisture Levels
IN THIS GUIDE Is Heather Suited To Pots? Choosing Containers For Heather Compost For Heather Potting Up Heathers Potted Heather Care Ubiquitous in the Scottish Highlands, heather is a hardy, drought-tolerant plant that is native to northern Europe but has since been introduced to many other parts of the globe. Because of its durable nature, heather can be easily grown and maintained in pots, containers or the ground. Indeed, the simplicity of its cultivation makes it an ideal plant for novice gardeners. As long as you get the pH balance of your soil right, keep it well hydrated and protect it from the worst ravages of winter, your heather plant will do just fine. Is Heather Suited To Pots? It might be a more common sight on the glens and bens of Scotland, but heather can be quite easily grown in containers. In fact, doing so can be advantageous, since it allows you to better control the acidity and moisture levels in the soil, as well as move the plant around your garden (or even indoors) at will. “Please do not think that heathers and heaths are for heather beds only,” says Irene Lang from Perthshire Heathers. “Heathers in containers look lovely and I especially like growing the winter/spring flowering varieties in large containers for a burst of spring colour.” Choosing Containers For Heather Generally speaking, heather isn’t a plant that dominates its surroundings, only ever reaching a maximum of 30cm in height, but frequently less than half that. Its roots are similarly shallow, so they don’t need exceptionally deep or large pots. Having said that, I find heather is often at its most attractive when positioned alongside other blossoming plants from the same Ericaceae family, such as rhododendrons and azaleas. As such, you may want to choose a container big enough to fit all of the plants you intend to place within it. In any case, you should ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes in the bottom, since heather can’t stand waterlogged soil. Also, if replanting, make sure the pot is one size larger than the one in which it was previously housed to allow it the space to develop healthily. Compost For Heather Heather is a little fussy about the type of compost in which it is grown, but the good news is that planting it in a pot gives you far greater control over this aspect. “Soil type is very important and although the Erica x darleyensis and Erica carnea varieties will tolerate most soils, E. calluna varieties require an acidic soil,” warns Irene. “Check the pH level first and add ericaceous compost when planting where necessary.” Ideally, you’ll pot it in ericaceous soil that retains moisture well but still has good drainage, with a pH level anywhere between 4.5 and 5.5. Indeed, this predilection for acidity is the most demanding aspect of heather’s requirements, so you’ll want to make sure the levels do not drop over time and certainly do not add any lime to the soil. Any product marketed for growing ericaceous plants should do the trick. On the other hand, if you’d like to create your own potting mixture, you can do so by combining 50% compost, 20% perlite, 10% leaves (or some other mulch), 10% sand and 10% garden soil. This will create the perfect pH, moisture retention and drainage qualities to serve your heather well. Potting Up Heathers Before you do anything, it’s a good idea to select the location in which you’ll position your potted heather plants. This is especially true if you plan to use heavy concrete or terracotta pots filled with many different plants and a shedload of soil. With that in mind, choose a location that enjoys plenty of sunshine but has decent protection from the wind. Heather will perform best when it’s exposed to at least eight hours of sunlight per day, and though it can survive in windy locations, it will appreciate some shelter. Fill your container with your potting mixture to around two-thirds of the height of the pot. Place the heather in it, positioning larger specimens towards the rear of the container and smaller ones at the front. Make sure the roots are splayed and have room to manoeuvre, then add pine bark to maintain appropriate acidity levels and discourage weeds. Fill with more potting mixture and tamp down gently. Give the plant a good soaking to make sure it has enough to drink at first, allowing excess water to drain from the bottom of the pot. While your plant is still establishing itself, you can expect to water it 1-2 times per week, making sure the soil is never allowed to fully dry out. Preferably, you’ll use collected rainwater to keep the acidity of the soil high. How Many Heathers Should You Plant Per Pot? The answer to this question will depend entirely on the size of the heather specimens you have, the dimensions of your container and whether or not you wish to include other plants and flowers in the pot. Generally speaking, they have compact root systems and will play well alongside others. Potted Heather Care In terms of irrigation, you’ll find that you should be watering heather less the more it becomes established. Having said that, it’s important not to allow the soil to dry out completely. “To get the best results, it is important when planting to keep the plants moist until they are established,” says Irene. “Be vigilant with watering as they will not tolerate drought until very well established.” “However, you should ensure the soil is free-draining and it’s best not to plant in heavier or clay soils unless you are able to add some materials to lighten the condition.” Always water the roots directly, avoiding the leaves, since this can encourage the development of fungal infections. “It can be quite tricky to balance the water requirements of heather in pots or containers,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They like free-draining soil but dislike getting very dry, which is quite a difficult combination in a potted plant. “I once lost several mature plants due to drying out in this way, despite watering every day. “If you can, drip irrigation in the very warmest weather would help to ensure that there is always available moisture but not too much.” Heather doesn’t necessarily require fertilisation, though you can feed it if its appearance is lacklustre and seems as though it may have used up much of the nutrients in its container. Choose a heather-specific fertiliser and apply it just once per growing season, as any more will be detrimental to its health in the long run. Heather will benefit from a good trim in early spring, stripping away any leggy or drooping parts of the plant. Not only will this give it a more sightly shape, but will also encourage fuller growth and more vigorous blooms when it comes to the flowering season in summer. Heather does like sunshine but if it has to endure the full strength of midday heat in particularly warm locations, it can suffer root rot. “I find they do best in open sunny sights, but partial shade will be tolerated,” explains Irene. You should also be vigilant against pests such as spider mites and scale insects. If you spot the signs, treat the plant immediately with an appropriate systemic insecticide. As for overwintering, heathers are generally quite resistant to frost. Having said that, they may succumb to the harshest temperatures in the UK. If in doubt, move potted specimens indoors if you can. If not, you can insulate them as much as possible by mulching the base with straw and covering the entire container (including the base) with polystyrene foam or another suitable insulating material.
Learn more
Keep On Top Of Vigorous Photinia If Growing In Pots - Experts Share How In This Guide
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Photinia In Pots? Potted Photinia Varieties Suitable Container Sizes Compost Requirements Potting Up Photinia Potted Photinia Care Photinias are hardy evergreen shrubs that are appreciated in many regions for their ability to grow into colourful and attractive hedges without much effort on the part of the gardener. Though so many hedges delight us with thrilling autumn colours, photinias produce wonderful spring and summer foliage that is definitely among the best. Most cultivars put out young leaves that are in shades of pink and red while a minority have coppery, bronze, marbled or cream-edged foliage. Photinias are commonly grown in open ground, but you might also be wondering if you can grow these stunning plants in pots. Can You Grow Photinia In Pots? In general, most Photinia varieties are planted in open ground where they serve as decorative bushes, hedges and screens. As to whether they can be grown in pots, the truth is, it depends. It depends on the variety, as while several varieties attain manageable sizes of up to 2m in height and about 1.5m in spread, several other varieties grow to over 5m and some of these have a fast growth rate to boot. Obviously, varieties of the latter larger dimensions should not be grown in pots. Even a photinia that is expected to grow to a relatively modest height and spread, if grown in a container, will require annual pruning for size and shape. Potted Photinia Varieties While the biggest varieties will become too large, bulky and unwieldy for any container, you could certainly grow one of the intermediate-sized varieties in a large container, pruning it regularly after it reaches the desired size. In fact, the aptly-named Photinia ’Little Red Robin’ and the dwarf cultivar Photinia × fraseri were specifically developed for container growing. Suitable Container Sizes Firstly, the container should be large enough to accommodate your photinia variety at its given stage of maturity. The rule of thumb is that the container should be half as high as the above-soil height of the plant. Most photinia varieties are fairly vigorous growers so it makes sense to choose a container that is a size bigger than the next size up. The container should have drainage holes and I’d recommend using a terracotta or other clay pot. If you opt to grow a largeish, spreading variety in a container, a planter would be very suitable. Compost Requirements Soil that is light, friable, moderately fertile, and free-draining is best for photinias in containers. Prepare a mix of garden soil with added grit combined with organic compost and well-rotted manure and blend the two mixes in approximately a 7:3 ratio. “If you don’t have access to garden soil, garden centres usually stock John Innes No.3, which is formulated to provide the perfect mix of loam and sand for mature shrubs in pots and containers,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. Photinia thrives in soil with a pH level that is slightly acidic. Potting Up Photinia Potting up or transplanting a large photinia is a task best done by two people. In the early morning, soak the photinia in the container. Water the soil for the new container (which should only be filled partially) or the transplanting site. Run a flat trowel around the container at the edge of the soil to loosen it. I find a cement trowel perfect for this purpose. Lift the container and hold it horizontally and at the same time, try to prise out the soil ball with a spade and push it outward through the drainage holes. If this proves difficult, simply break the container. When placing the shrub in the new container or transplanting site, try to spread out the roots. Be sure that the soil line of the stems is the same as it was in the old container, or just a tad higher. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? You should only plant one per pot. However, if you use a wide enough planter, you may plant 2 or more of the more reasonably-sized varieties in it to create a containerised decorative hedge. Potted Photinia Care The vast majority of photinias, including ‘Red Robin,’ will do best in full sun, otherwise in partial shade. However, ‘Little Red Robin’ should be sited in partial shade or even full shade and full sun is to be avoided for this variety. Photinias are hardy to H4 or H5 and they do not have special requirements for aspect or shelter. However, in the colder parts of the country, especially in winter, it would be wise to avoid northern exposure and keep them in a sheltered spot. Ensure that they are protected from wet and wind during the winter. Young plants may need daily watering, whilst mature plants in containers will need less frequent, though regular, watering. In hot and dry conditions in a full sun spot, more water may be required. Though open-ground photinias do not need feeding, container-grown ones will do better with a spring shot of fertiliser. Use a conservative quantity of an all-purpose liquid fertiliser and work it into the soil, taking care to stay away from the roots, or prepare a solution to use as a liquid feed.
Learn more
Grow Oleander Varieties In Decorative Containers - They Look Great Outside The Home
IN THIS GUIDE Are Oleander Suited To Containers? Which Containers Are Best? Which Growing Medium Is Best? Potting Up Oleander Potted Oleander Care Oleanders are big, well-branched plants that impart a Mediterranean atmosphere to the garden or to the porch – or even by your front door. These sun-loving evergreens have very pretty foliage that is comprised of small, lanceolate leaves in various beautiful shades of green, and some varieties even have variegated foliage. All varieties produce lots of little salver-shaped, sometimes cup-shaped, flowers throughout the summer and into autumn. Colours include white, pink and resin tones ranging from delicate pastels to striking vibrant reds. Oleanders are frost-tender, warm-weather plants that are fuss-free and remarkably easy to grow if you simply protect them from the cold. Are Oleander Suited To Containers? Not only can you grow Oleander in pots, but oleander varieties in decorative containers are also often placed near the front door of homes. Also, these big evergreens can stay in their big pots outdoors year-round. It’s actually better to grow your oleanders in pots in the UK, as these frost-tender shrubs have a hardiness rating of H3, meaning they cannot survive through the winter in most parts of the UK if planted in open ground. Which Containers Are Best? It is most important for the container to have drainage holes as the soil must drain very well. Other than that, we suggest a sturdy pot in the form of a truncated cone or truncated pyramid. Feel free to use a decorative container made of synthetic material. As a general rule, the height of the container should be about half the height of the above-soil height of the plant. Oleanders are quite big with fully-grown plants averaging 2m in height and 1.5m in spread. So, no matter which variety you grow, at some point you will need a large container. Since most UK gardeners will almost surely be moving the plant indoors sometime in the autumn and shifting it back outdoors in spring, you may wish to keep in mind the size and weight of a container-bound oleander variety. “I recommend trying moving your pot size around before planting it, as with any large shrub,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “This is particularly true for Oleander because it will need to be moved in and out every winter. “A sack trolley is an indispensable piece of equipment but make sure there is room to manoeuvre and support for going up or down slopes or stairs.” Which Growing Medium Is Best? Oleander is one of those unusual shrubs that will struggle if grown in rich, fertile soil. Put it in poor soil and it is relatively content. For best results, take a mixed loam and amend with a very conservative quantity (around 25%) of organic compost. Soil should be very well-draining, so incorporate grit or perlite, especially if the sand content is low. The optimal soil pH for oleanders is slightly alkaline but they will cope in neutral soil. Potting Up Oleander Oleander’s growth rate can vary significantly depending on your location in the UK, so select your container size accordingly. The warmer and more humid the weather, the faster it will grow. In most parts of the UK you can pot up oleander to the next pot size up. However, in the balmiest regions of the country, especially if you have noticed fast growth, you may as well pot on to a pot 2 sizes up. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? One, full-stop. Potted Oleander Care Oleanders need regular watering. Soil should be kept moist but not soaked, especially during summer and hot weather and especially for young plants. In such conditions, you may well need to water even every day. Mature, established plants, even in containers, can get by if you skip a watering or two. Outdoors, keep the pot in a south-facing, sheltered location in full sun. In the less cold regions of the British Isles, during the summer you can certainly keep the container in any old place outdoors. However, you may keep your potted oleander plants outdoors only when the temperature is 10°C or higher. Anything lower and they need to be brought indoors. When inside, keep the container by a (closed) window where it will get full sun through the pane. The window should have to have an eastern-to-southern aspect and normal room temperature will suit these plants very well. In the middle of spring when the weather has warmed up, you may shift a mature, established oleander directly outdoors, but a young, growing plant should undergo a process of hardening over at least 4-5 days before being left outdoors. Oleanders do not need fertilising. However, if you wish, in mid-spring just after you observe fresh growth you can work in slow-release granules into the soil. Alternatively, apply a liquid fertiliser once in mid-spring and once in mid-summer.
Learn more
Potted Nandina: 'The More Diminutive Cultivars Make Excellent Container Plants'
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Nandina Containers Suitable Growing Medium Potting Up Nandina Potted Heavenly Bamboo Care Nandina domestica varieties range from 0.5-1.5m in height with proportional spreads and have the prettiest foliage imaginable. The small lanceolate leaves are of a light glazed shade of sea green – when they are green. Otherwise, they are in tones of orange, red or purple, sometimes when emerging, sometimes in autumn. They are low-maintenance evergreen shrubs with a naturally neat habit and the majority of varieties are fully hardy at H5. All in all, growing these beautiful shrubs in containers would make a great addition to any garden display. “The more diminutive Nandina cultivars make excellent container plants,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I’ve used them as a mid-layer in small gardens where they provide interest and structure year-round.” Choosing Nandina Containers Heavenly Bamboo requires free-draining soil, so be sure that the container you choose has drainage holes. I’d suggest an upright container that is like a truncated cone or pyramid rather than a wide planter. The height of the container should be about half the above-soil height of the plant. Varieties’ mature sizes vary widely, so you may need anything from a pot height of 20-70cm. These evergreens are good to grow in a decorative container made of synthetic material. However, they grow at a slow pace, so you may not pot on a mature shrub for 3 years or even more. Therefore, you should make sure to refresh, till and aerate the soil, otherwise opt for a terracotta container which does this itself much better than synthetic materials do. Suitable Growing Medium These shrubs do best in rich fertile soil that preserves moisture but drains very well. You can use a commercial multi-purpose potting compost or take mixed loam as a base and enrich it with a healthy quantity of well-rotted manure, preferably chicken manure, or organic compost. The medium should contain grit or perlite to promote good drainage. I often put a layer of pebbles at the base of the pot. If you make your own soil, the manure or compost content should ensure moisture retention, but if in doubt, add vermiculite. Heavenly bamboo does best in acidic soil. Potting Up Nandina A young, actively growing Nandina domestica shrub that is in a correctly-sized pot will probably need potting up about every 2 years. A full-grown plant in a large enough container will not need to be potted on for 4 years. However, you will need to turn over, till and aerate the soil, and refresh it with a dressing of organic compost. When potting up one of these slow-growing plants, choose a pot the next size up. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Though you can plant 2-3 of the diminutive cultivars in a pot or even a couple of the intermediate-sized ones in a planter, the form and habit of this graceful, well-proportioned evergreen are best enjoyed if planted on their own. Potted Heavenly Bamboo Care During the summer, young plants in containers need to be watered daily. On the other hand, established plants in the winter will need watering only once every several days. Feeding these plants with a balanced fertiliser will prove beneficial. You could work in controlled-release granules into the soil at the top of spring and then again 3 months later, or apply a liquid formula from mid-spring on a monthly basis for 6 months. I’d suggest that you use or dilute the fertiliser to about 75% of the recommended quantity or strength. In the UK, in all but the warmest regions, the container should be placed in a location with full sun, but this plant can also cope with partial shade. You do not need to bring heavenly bamboo indoors in winter in most regions of the UK. Simply make sure that it is tucked in a corner of your porch or patio where it is sheltered from northerly winds and protected from the elements. However, if you anticipate an extended spell of sub-freezing temperatures, I’d strongly recommend that you bring the container indoors.
Learn more
Growing In Barrels? Horticulturist Recommends These Plants Will Thrive
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Agave 2) Ageratum 3) Basil 4) Bergenia 5) Cacti 6) Chives 7) Chrysanthemum 8) Cucumber 9) Daffodil 10) Ferns 11) Hydrangea 12) Periwinkle 13) Petunia 14) Sedum 15) Water Lily References The perfect combination of practicality and panache, barrels make great planters for ornamental flowers and culinary herbs alike. Their solid oak staves and silver or black metal hoops add a rustic charm to their surroundings, while also being highly functional to boot. That’s because they offer more room and better retention of moisture in comparison to your standard pots, but all the advantages of convenience and mobility that come with container planting. It’s like having a mini-raised bed at your disposal! “I love the contrast between vivid greens and the dark tones of the barrel,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “What barrels also provide better than most containers is some insulation against frost to the roots and a generous root-run. “I prefer to line any barrels before planting, such as with plastic sheeting or old compost bags, to help them last longer. Ensure there are drainage holes. “For plants loved by slugs, a barrel may not be the best choice as they provide plenty of hiding places.” While barrels do lend themselves to an enormous range of different plants, there are some that will fare better in them and some that will look more attractive in them than others. With that in mind, I’ve narrowed things down to my 15 favourite plants to grow in a barrel, for both amateur gardeners and experienced horticulturalists. 1) Agave BOTANICAL NAME: agave COMMON NAME(S): century plant HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: succulent / perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow and green FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: sand or loam; acidic to neutral pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Natives of the warm climes of Mexico and the surrounding region, agave plants are prized for the striking architecture of their foliage.1 These succulents can’t stand frost, which is why planting them in containers makes perfect sense. In fact, a barrel is an ideal option. Not only will the wood retain warmth and moisture better than plastic or ground soil, but it can also be moved into sunnier spots if necessary. 2) Ageratum BOTANICAL NAME: ageratum petiolatum COMMON NAME(S): ageratum HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Also known as floss flower, ageratum is a genus that’s home to more than 40 different species of annuals and perennials.2 The majority of them produce teeming cascades of bluish-purple flowers, which will blossom from early spring to late autumn. Indeed, it’s only frost that will bring an end to their flowering, so the insulation provided by a barrel can prolong their displays that little bit longer. 3) Basil BOTANICAL NAME: ocimum basilicum COMMON NAME(S): basil HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: herb / annual FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: sand or loam; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread For those who enjoy cooking as much as they do gardening, basil is front and centre of the crossover on that particular Venn diagram. It’s easy to cultivate and resilient in most conditions, while it can enhance the flavours of all kinds of salads, soups, kinds of pasta and curries.3 By growing basil in a barrel, you can choose its location for optimum access. Why not place a barrel of that herby goodness by your kitchen door, so it’s within easy reach whenever you need it? 4) Bergenia BOTANICAL NAME: bergenia COMMON NAME(S): elephant’s ears HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Bergenias are colloquially known as elephant’s ears for the oversized appearance of their leaves. It’s precisely this distinctive image which makes them a perfect fit for barrel growing, since the leaves will spill out over the edges of the receptacle in an attractive fashion. The fact that Bergenias are evergreen all through the calendar, even accruing a red tinted tinge in the winter months and producing bright flowers in early spring, makes them an ideal addition to your outdoor display, while their easy-going nature can withstand most conditions. 5) Cacti HARDINESS RATING: varies PLANT TYPE: cacti FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): varies SOIL PREFERENCE: sand or loam; acidic to neutral pH SIZE: varies Okay, so the barrel shown here is of pixie-sized proportions, but that doesn’t make it any less of a viable option. You could grow these tiny cacti on your windowsill, or else replicate the same results with a full-size barrel outdoors. Famous for their set-and-forget qualities, cacti require very little in the way of maintenance. And while not usually grown outside in the UK, there are some hardy types that can survive many months of the year outdoors. This is especially the case if they are covered to stop them sitting too wet, such as under a porch or carport. They are popular for the intrigue of their architecture which, alongside the quirky appeal that barrels bring, could really make a statement in your garden. “If I could pick any cactus for the job, I would go with Opuntia robusta, because its large form will match the generous proportions of a barrel,” explains Peter. 6) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: allium schoenoprasum COMMON NAME(S): chives HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Chives are a popular herb that, when their leaves and stems are diced and added to a dish, bring with them a mild flavour of onions that isn’t too overwhelming. Outside of horticultural circles, it’s a little known fact that their bright pompom-like blooms are also edible.4 Even if you don’t plan to eat the flowers, they make for an impressive sight atop the upright stems of the plant, adored by bees. Meanwhile, their low-maintenance nature makes them the perfect option for the barrel-growing beginner. 7) Chrysanthemum BOTANICAL NAME: chrysanthemum HARDINESS RATING: H3 / H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, sand, loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Available in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colours, Chrysanthemums are highly versatile but always impressive. Here, their striking white flower heads jostle for position atop the dark brown barrel in which they’re housed, providing a pleasing visual contrast. Like many other perennials, Chrysanthemums are slightly demanding plants in that they require you to properly set them up for the winter. That means giving their roots lots of room to manoeuvre and keeping them safe from frost – both jobs at which barrels excel. 8) Cucumber BOTANICAL NAME: cucumis sativus COMMON NAME(S): cucumber HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: fruit FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-1m in height, 1-2.5m spread Capable of bringing a crisp coolness to salads, sandwiches and thirst-quenching drinks during the summer months, a cucumber patch is a handy crop to have in your back pocket. If you don’t have the space to create one, however, a barrel will do the job nicely. Traditional longer varieties must be grown in a greenhouse, but smaller species can survive outdoors; either way, a homegrown variety invariably tastes better. Just be sure to remove male flowers on older varieties, since pollination can result in bitter, seed-filled produce.5 9) Daffodil BOTANICAL NAME: narcissus COMMON NAME(S): daffodil HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: bulb FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Daffodils are such bonnie flowers that they won’t be able to resist having a keek over the edge of their barrel to try and catch a glimpse of their own reflection in a nearby pond or puddle. And who could argue? The yellow against brown is a particularly handsome combo. Extremely reliable, you can set your watch by the spring-flowering habits of a daffodil. They’re especially well-adapted to containers like barrels, but to be honest they’ll do just fine in pretty much any environment. 10) Ferns SUNLIGHT: full / part shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: sand or loam; acidic to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1.5m in height, 0.5-1.5m spread With their finely textured foliage which spreads and spills freely, ferns are a match made in heaven for a barrel planter. The unfurling nature of their leaves is a fascinating sight to behold and one which will occur with little to no input from your side. Ferns are one of the most diverse families of plants, ranging from petite and delicate to larger-than-life and lush. As such, you’ll be able to find a variety that fits your existing aesthetic with ease. “If I chose one to hold its own in a barrel, I would go for the evergreen and elegant Blechnum spicant,” shares Peter. 11) Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: hortensia COMMON NAME(S): hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: shrub FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; acidic to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1.5m in height, 0.5-1.5m spread Another flower which comes in a supremely vast range of shapes and sizes, hydrangeas can be as big and boastful or as subtle and understated as you like. In the image above, their oversized white blossoms bring a typically British feel to the barrel below, despite their Asian and American origins.6 They like moisture and detest frost, so a wooden container is ideal for retaining the former and repelling the latter from their roots. Ensure they enjoy good drainage and dappled sunlight and you can’t go far wrong. 12) Periwinkle BOTANICAL NAME: vinca COMMON NAME(S): periwinkle HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: shrub FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade / full shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Periwinkles are evergreen creatures which boast masses upon masses of purplish, blue or white flowers come spring. The proliferation of blossoms cascading over the edge of your barrel’s lip will be the star attraction, but their year-round greenery is another bonus. By and large, periwinkles are extremely easy to care for and can withstand most conditions, including colder parts of the UK. However, some species can be invasive, so the clearly-defined boundaries offered by a barrel could be ideal. They would combine well with a taller, central plant, such as a dwarf conifer. 13) Petunia BOTANICAL NAME: petunia COMMON NAME(S): petunia HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: annual FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: sand or loam; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The profusion of colourful flowers offered by Petunias is one of the main reasons why they’re widely favoured across the UK as bedding plants, alongside their hardiness and ease of growth. Matched with geraniums as above, they’re a beautiful barrel flower. Although they require little in the way of upkeep, they’re extremely tender to frosts and will stop flowering at the first sign of cold. Although a barrel won’t prevent that inevitability, it could postpone it. 14) Sedum BOTANICAL NAME: sedum / HYLOTELEPHIUM COMMON NAME(S): stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: varies PLANT TYPE: succulent FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): varies SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: sand, clay, loam; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread You might not think it when you look at them, but sedums actually belong to the succulent family Crassulaceae. Their proud, skyward-facing blossoms conceal glossy foliage below which belies their birthright. Most types of sedums are low-growing, which makes them great for combining with taller plants in a barrel. Having said that, the upright stems of Hylotelephium spectabile, like the plant pictured above provide a focal point all on their own. 15) Water Lily BOTANICAL NAME: nymphaea COMMON NAME(S): water lily HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: aquatic FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay or loam; any pH SIZE: up to 10cm in height, 1-1.5m spread Who said a barrel planter had to be filled with soil? Water lilies are gorgeous creatures which float idyllically atop a keg filled with water, creating a picture-perfect addition to your home that not only looks great but will attract other wildlife, too. As the name suggests, water lilies normally require a pond or lake to thrive. However, for those with gardens too small to house such a feature, a barrel habitat can provide the perfect compromise measure. “Selecting a smaller species, such as Nymphaea pygmaea, would be ideal for barrels,” Peter says. References 1. Agave. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:325900-2 2. Mahr, S. (n.d.-a). Ageratum, Ageratum houstonianum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/ageratum/ 3. Basil. (2022, May 30). BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/basil-glossary 4. Chive Blossoms. (2008, June 23). Bon Appétit. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.bonappetit.com/test-kitchen/ingredients/article/chive-blossoms 5. How to avoid bitter cucumbers. (2023, March 10). Suttons Gardening Grow How. Retrieved July 31, 2023, from https://hub.suttons.co.uk/gardening-advice/how-to-avoid-bitter-cucumbers 6. Hydrangea. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30010546-2
Learn more
Grow Blueberries In Pots To Help Create The Perfect pH And Moisture Levels
IN THIS GUIDE Are Blueberries Suitable For Pots? Sourcing Ideal Containers Potting Up Blueberry Plants Potted Blueberry Care References Blueberry shrubs not only produce delicious fruit but look great when they flower in spring and their foliage turns red in the autumn. Originating from North America, blueberries are well suited to our climate here in the UK, especially when grown in pots and containers.1 Are Blueberries Suitable For Pots? Absolutely! Blueberries have certain soil and climatic requirements that need to be met in order for them to thrive and produce the delicious fruit they are grown for. “My garden has slightly acidic soil but a low enough pH for blueberries to thrive,” says Colin Skelly, a Professional Gardener & Horticulturist with over 13 years of experience. “I grow my blueberries in pots so that I can create the perfect pH and moisture levels using ericaceous compost. “They are moisture-hungry in summer, particularly in prolonged dry spells, so a water butt would be a good idea if you don’t already have one. “This has the added bonus of collecting pH-neutral rain water.” Growing blueberries in pots is ideal as the soil can be chosen to suit their needs and the planters moved to protect them from the worst of the winter weather. Sourcing Ideal Containers There are many different varieties of blueberry available to grow here in the UK, with ‘Blue Crop’ and ‘Duke’ perhaps being the most commonly grown. The eventual size of blueberry shrubs can differ hugely depending on the variety, ranging from dwarf varieties that grow up to 1m to large bushes growing as high and wide as 3m. When choosing a container to grow blueberries in, make sure it will be able to accommodate the shrub’s eventual size and root system, but as a general rule, a 30cm diameter pot is the minimum for a newly planted shrub. “You can grow blueberries in containers, but as small plants, they don’t like to be overpotted,” says Lorraine Summers, the owner of the specialist blueberry retailer Trehane Nursery. “Plant into a container that is 2-2.5 times the volume of the pot your plant is in now. “Ensure that the pot has good drainage holes and cover the holes with coarse gravel to prevent clogging with compost.” As mentioned, blueberries require free-draining soil, so any container used will require adequate drainage holes to allow any excess water to escape freely. Remember that blueberry plants prefer moist, but well-drained ericaceous soil with an acidic pH. Potting Up Blueberry Plants Water the blueberry plant thoroughly before planting and half-fill the chosen pot or container with ericaceous compost. Remove the plant from its pot, place it in the container and backfill it with more compost, gently firming it in as you go. Ensure that the blueberry is planted at the same depth it was previously and water in well. “Ericaceous compost must be used and potting up is done every two or three years until the final container can be used, which should be of at least 50 litres capacity,” says Lorraine. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? It is advisable to only plant one blueberry plant per pot or container, as they develop a tightly packed fibrous root system in the space they are given and do not like to be overcrowded. Even though many blueberry varieties are described as self-fertile and will produce a good crop, growing two or more varieties nearby can increase not only fruit size, but yields as well. Potted Blueberry Care Watering When it comes to watering blueberries, rainwater is the preferred choice as tap water can raise the pH of the soil. Blueberries require moist, but not wet soil and will need watering regularly, especially after planting and during the summer months when they are actively growing. Feeding Blueberry shrubs can be hungry feeders and certainly benefit from an ericaceous liquid fertiliser applied during the growing season from April to September. Overwintering Many blueberry varieties are fully hardy, but some are not and even those that are can suffer from the extremely low temperatures and wet conditions of winter. One of the many benefits of growing blueberries in containers is that they can be moved undercover or to an unheated greenhouse to avoid the worst of the winter weather. Re-Potting Blueberry shrubs can need re-potting either due to outgrowing their current container or when their soil needs refreshing, which can be every 2-3 years. If the blueberry’s roots are visible through the container’s drainage holes this is an indication that it needs re-potting into a larger pot, which can be done in either spring or autumn. To re-pot, remove the blueberry from its current container by squeezing the pot sides or if necessary, sliding an old knife down between the pot and the soil. Inspect the roots and if root-bound or severely congested, gently tease out some of the roots. Fill the bottom of the new container with fresh ericaceous compost and place the plant ensuring it is at the same depth as it was previously planted. Backfill with compost and water thoroughly. If re-potting becomes difficult due to the size of the shrub, then it can be top-dressed instead, which is when the top 5-7cm of compost is replaced each year to replenish any lost nutrients. Protecting Fruit As with blueberries grown in the ground, container-grown shrubs will need their fruit protected from any birds. As soon as the berries start to turn blue, fleece or fine netting can be placed over the shrub to form a barrier against pigeons and blackbirds who can strip the berries bare if they are not protected. The fruits are ready to harvest when they have fully changed colour and there is no hint of green left. Pruning Whether grown in the ground or in containers, blueberry shrubs can benefit from an annual prune carried out when they are dormant in winter. New blueberries don’t need much pruning, apart from removing any wayward stems or shortening them to encourage branching. From the third year onwards, annual pruning involves removing any dead, diseased or rubbing branches. As the shrub matures, up to 25% of the oldest and thickest stems can either be pruned back to a strong shoot lower down or removed at the base, to encourage new growth which will fruit the following year. References 1. The Blueberry: An American native. (2021, October 27). Berkeley Horticultural Nursery. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://berkeleyhort.com/gardening-suggestions/the-blueberry-an-american-native-2/
Learn more
