Growing
These Are The Lilacs Recommended For Containers By Master Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Lilac In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing Your Compost Potting Up Syringa Potted Lilac Care References Lilac is an attractive shrub, and although it only blooms for a brief period, it is great for wildlife – and the flowers are actually edible too.1 Syringa cultivars can make great choices for many gardens, but if you don’t have much space, or can only grow in containers, you might wonder whether you can grow lilac in pots. Can You Grow Lilac In Pots? “Lilacs can theoretically be grown in large containers, but they are an aggressive growing plant when in good health and vigour,” says David Gressley, Board Member at the International Lilac Society. The important thing to understand is that there are many different lilac cultivars to choose from. These often come from the common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, but can also be derived from other lilac species. Some cultivars grow very large, up to around 7m tall and wide. However, the good news is that there are also many much more compact options, and many of these are excellent choices for small gardens, or, indeed, for container cultivation. Some compact lilac cultivars that could be good choices for containers include: S. Flowerfesta series This compact lilac is S. meyeri, and grows into an upright deciduous shrub. It has panicles of flowers in different colours (depending on the particular choice from this range) in spring/early summer. It is also H7 hardy. S. ‘Josee’ This bushy, rounded shrub has matt leaves that are oval to heart-shaped. In the late spring and intermittently through to late autumn, it produces dense sprays of lavender-pink flowers. It repeats flowers most reliably in cool climates and is H6 hardy. S. ‘Minuet’ Slower growing and with a dense, rounded form, this lilac is S. prestoniae. It has oval green leaves, and is a floriferous varietal, with pink buds that open to paler pink blooms, on erect to nodding panicles. Syringa ‘Minuet’ is H7 hardy. S. meyeri ‘Palabin’ Another bushy and slow-growing lilac that is H5 hardy. This option has broadly ovate, dark green leaves and bears upright panicles of small, fragrant flowers with a lilac-pink hue in late spring or early summer. “Because my soil is acidic, I can’t grow the large S. vulgaris cultivars that I would like to in my garden,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “To overcome this, I purchased S. meyeri ‘Palibin’ to grow in a container. Although it is smaller lilac it is now 1.5m height and width, so still needs a large pot and plenty of water in the summer. “Through annual pruning and re-potting every 2-3 years, it stays around this size and healthy, but bear in mind the eventual size of ‘small’ lilacs and make sure you have the space to accommodate them.” S. ‘Red Pixie’ This is a compact lilac with spreading branches. The leaves are small, and of a mid-green hue, turning yellow in autumn. In late spring, and often again in late summer or early autumn, this shrub bears sprays of scented flowers which open from red buds to deep pink blooms, which fade to a paler pink as they mature. These types rarely exceed 1.5m in height and width, so are much better suited to container cultivation, and are H5 hardy. Choosing A Container Even smaller lilac cultivars will usually require a reasonably large container. Typically, when growing a lilac shrub in a pot, you will need to choose one that is at least 60cm in diameter. The container you choose should be sturdy, stable and heavy enough to cope with a shrub without tipping or blowing over when placed in your garden. It is also important to make sure that whatever container you choose has adequate drainage hole or holes at the base, so that excess water can drain away freely. Choosing Your Compost Lilac needs a soil-based growing medium for best results when being grown in a container longer term. The growing medium typically chosen should be a peat-free mix with some sand or grit added to improve the drainage. Potting Up Syringa When potting up lilac, you should make sure that the shrub sits at the same level that it sat in its previous pot. Place a little of the growing medium into the base of the pot, then place the lilac shrub into the pot and firm more of the growing medium around the sides, making sure that there are not any air pockets around the roots. Once you have placed the lilac into its new container, water it in well, making sure that excess water can drain away freely, and spread an organic mulch over the surface of the soil. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Typically, lilac is grown on its own in a container. Remember that even the smaller lilac shrubs will grow into fairly large plants. Lilacs also have a fairly shallow root system so might experience excess competition if other plants are placed alongside them. Remember, however, that lilac can benefit from having other plants growing in containers nearby, for purposes of organic pest control. For example, plant flowers nearby that attract predatory insects that help keep populations of pests like thrips down. Just make sure that your lilac has good airflow and space to breathe since overcrowded conditions can increase problems with infection with fungal issues. Potted Lilac Care Though lilac in the ground is a great low-maintenance plant, lilac in pots will typically require a little more care and take up a little more of your time, largely because of the necessity of keeping the medium moist. However, even in pots, lilac is a relatively easy and straightforward shrub to grow. To care for lilac in containers, place them in a sunny and sheltered position, with a moist yet free-draining medium, in such a position that excess water can drain away as it should. Elevating pots with pot stands or feet can help to ensure that winter wet does not cause an issue. In the ground, lilac can also cope with an exposed location, but when grown in pots it is best to choose a sheltered spot so that the plants don’t become unstable and potentially blow over in strong winds. “Periodic root pruning can be incorporated into the maintenance regime,” says David. “In essence, containerised lilac can be treated much like how a bonsai plant is maintained if you want to grow a small shrub.” Other things you can do to ensure your lilac grows well in pots include: Watering it regularly during particularly dry seasons (take particular care to keep the growing medium moist during the period of establishment). Remaining vigilant for pests, which may cause damage to plants, especially while they are young. Deadheading as the flowers fade if desired to keep things neat and tidy (though this job is certainly not essential). If you would like to propagate your lilac and obtain new plants, this is best achieved by taking softwood cuttings, or layering in summer. Pruning to reduce size, if required, in the dormant period in winter (these shrubs respond well to hard pruning but since they flower on the previous year’s wood, note that you will lose flowers for at least a year if you cut back all the old branches). If lilac in pots blooms poorly, check that it has enough sunshine, and that it is not waterlogged. In some locations, with some lilacs, it may be helpful to cover young plants to protect flowers against late spring frosts. References 1. Foraging Guide Lilac. (n.d.). The Foraging Course Company. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.foragingcoursecompany.co.uk/foraging-guide-lilac
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Container Grown Pansies Are Wonderful For Filling Gaps In The Gardening Calendar
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Pansies In Pots? Choosing Pansies For Containers Choosing A Container Choosing Your Growing Medium Potting Up Pansies Companion Plants Potted Pansy Care Pansies, otherwise known as Viola x wittrockiana, are extremely popular plants to grow here in the UK. These cheerful and easy flowers are wonderful for filling gaps in the gardening calendar and for making sure that you have blooms throughout as much of the year as possible. Often they can be grown in a wide range of different settings – in the ground, or in containers. Can You Grow Pansies In Pots? Pansies are, of course, a great choice for those growing in containers, as well as for those growing in raised beds or in the ground. They can be grown simply in pots but they can also be grown in more elaborate containers – in hanging baskets or even vertical garden structures. If you choose the right cultivars, you can potentially grow pansies in pots all year round. You can grow your own pansies from seed, or purchase plugs or bedding plants if you do not have the time or energy to do so. One of the first decisions that you will have to make if you want to grow pansies in pots in which specific pansies you would like to grow. Choosing Pansies For Containers When choosing pansies, you can think about whether you want them to bloom in the spring/summer, or in the autumn/winter months. You can also think about the size and colour of the flowers, as pansies bloom in a wide range of vibrant hues. There are, of course, a wide range of options to choose from. There are typical clumping plants and also trailing types that you might want to consider if you are growing in hanging baskets or other containers up off the ground. Choosing A Container There are not only many pansies to choose from, but also many different container options to consider. With this in mind, pansies can be planted into containers of a range of different sizes, depending on your goals and how much space you have available in your garden or outside space. One great thing about pansies is that they have fairly shallow roots, soo they don’t need a particularly deep container. An important thing to remember when choosing a container is that pansies need moist yet free-draining conditions. Make sure that the container you choose retains some moisture, but that it has holes at the base to allow excess water to drain away freely. Since pansies can be eaten by slugs and other pests, growing them up off the ground in containers against a vertical surface, in a planting tower, or in hanging containers can be a good idea. Thinking about vertical gardening can also help you make the most of a smaller space. Choosing Your Growing Medium Any general multi-purpose peat-free compost, either one you buy or one you make yourself at home, should be absolutely fine for growing pansies. As long as the mix is moderately fertile and moist yet free-draining, you cannot go too far wrong, as these are extremely happy-go-lucky and tolerant plants that are quite flexible about their growing conditions. Potting Up Pansies When potting up pansies in whichever container you choose, whether you have grown them yourself from seed or purchased them from a garden centre or plant nursery, make sure that you plant them so they sit at the same level in the growing medium that they sat at in their previous pot. Place a little of your growing medium into your chosen container, place your pansies, then fill in the growing medium around their roots, firming it gently into place. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? As a general rule, pansies should be placed around 15cm apart. However, pansies don’t mind a little crowding so spacing is not as important for them as it is for many other plants. They are generally clump-forming rather than spreading, making them a great choice for mixed containers as they will ‘play well’ with other plants, mingling happily with a range of different companions. “Often pansies will self-seed when the odd bit of deadheading has been missed and a seed pod forms, they will pop up in unexpected places such as gaps in paving or previously used containers as free bonus plants,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. How many pansies you should plant in a given container will of course depend on the size of that container, and which other plants (if any) will be placed within it. Companion Plants Pansies pair well in containers with a wide range of different plants. When choosing companion plants for your pansies, think about when the pansies you have chosen will be in flower and choose companions that will bloom during the same period for attractive seasonal displays. For example, pansies that flower in winter/spring can work well planted with a range of spring bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, or grape hyacinths. In mixed containers, you might also think about combining plants with different growth habits and forms, to ring the changes and add some variety in your container garden. Combine trailing pansies (spillers) with fillers and thrillers in a hanging container display, for example, or use other pansies as fillers, depending on their characteristics. Pansies can bring in pollinators and help protect your crops against pests, making them a great choice for home growers to place in mixed containers in a small-space kitchen garden alongside a huge range of fruits, vegetables and herbs. Potted Pansy Care Pansies are very easy to care for – even when growing in containers. The main thing to think about is making sure that they receive enough water through any dry periods. To do this: Place containers with pansies in full sun to partial/dappled shade. Though pansies are unfussy in general when it comes to conditions, they will not typically bloom well in deeper shade. A sheltered position is best, and when growing in winter, frost pockets should be avoided. Water well during any dry spells, especially when growing in summer. Remember that plants growing in containers will typically have to be watered more frequently than those growing in the ground. The larger the container, the less frequently you will need to water, as a general rule. Try to water from below by watering the growing medium and not the leaves, as avoiding wetting the foliage reduces the incidence of fungal problems taking hold. You can, if you wish, feed pansies in containers every couple of weeks with a liquid, organic fertilizer from spring to autumn. A potassium-rich feed such as comfrey tea to promote good flowering can be ideal. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilisation and non-organic options, as too much nitrogen can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
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Growing Chillies In Containers? Make Sure To Re-Pot In Stages For A Thriving Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Chillies In Pots? Increase Container Size Over Time Compost For Tomatoes Works Well Potting Up Chillies How Many Chilli Plants Per Pot? Caring For Chilli Plants In Containers Pound for pound, there are few plants which pack as much punch or as much flavour as the humble chilli. Chillies are a delicious addition to all kinds of culinary dishes, from soups to pastas to stews to, well, chillies. Now that you’re aware of the myriad benefits that chillies bring to the table, it’s time to get growing your own. It’s well worth the small amount of time it’ll take to do so; cultivating your own is cheaper, more convenient and grants you access to a far greater variety than the simple red/green dichotomy on offer in most shops and supermarkets. Best of all, growing chillies in pots is supremely easy. Container growing means you can help yourself to a plentiful supply of tasty treats all year round, especially if you freeze or dry excess produce. This article will tell you everything you need to know about the process to make it as simple as possible. Can You Grow Chillies In Pots? The short answer here is a resounding yes! Growing chillies from seed in pots is child’s play – as long as you have the requisite heat and light to allow them to germinate properly. If your home is lacking the space or ambient conditions for you to confidently grow from seed, it’s advisable to simply buy a young chilli plant from a garden centre or online provider. This way, you can skip the slightly tricky germination stage altogether. Having said that, growing from seed shouldn’t pose too much of a problem if you are able to provide the three resources a chilli plant needs to thrive: warmth, light and water. You can take a shortcut to the first of these by using a temperature-regulated propagator, set at between 20-30°C. However, this is not strictly necessary and you can increase the temperature and humidity of your chilli plants by positioning them on a sunny windowsill and preparing the pot accordingly, as outlined below. Increase Container Size Over Time If planting from seed, it’s a good idea to use a seed tray or the smallest pot you can lay your hands on. This will help to regulate the temperature and moisture of the soil more effectively and give the chilli seeds the best chance of germinating. However, once the seedling has sprouted and begun to produce “true leaves” (by which we mean the second tier of foliage on the stem), it can be transplanted to a bigger pot. It’s advisable to re-pot in stages; rather than go from a tiny pot to a large one, increase its space incrementally. At the outset, you can increase the humidity levels of your chilli seedlings by placing a clear plastic bag or clingfilm over the pot and securing it in place with an elastic band. Once shoots begin to appear above the level of the soil, remove the plastic (or take the plants out of your propagator, if using one). It should also go without saying that good drainage is imperative to maintaining a healthy chilli plant. Make sure you select a pot with enough holes in the base and also make sure the soil mixture is right. More advice on that particular aspect is available below. Compost For Tomatoes Works Well It might sound counter-intuitive, but chilli seeds actually prefer soil which has poor nutrient levels at the outset. That’s because soil which has too many nutrients can hinder seedlings of a young age. Once the plant has become established and active, it will then require compost that is more suited to its development. This means using a soil product that has been specifically designed for chilli plants, or making up your own mix composed of enough nutrients and drainage additives. As a general rule, a compost composed of three-quarters tomato soil, 10% perlite, 10% vermiculite and 5% fine gravel or sand will serve your needs well. The nutrients contained in this initial mixture should meet the plant’s requirements for the first six weeks or so, but afterwards it’s advisable to fertilise it regularly. The exact type and frequency of feeding will vary between different types of chilli plants, so always check the label or the grower’s instructions to make sure you’re following the right path. Chilli-specific fertiliser, seaweed or diluted Epsom salts are all popular options. Potting Up Chillies When initially planting chilli seeds, you should fill your seed trays or small pots about half-full with potting soil. Sprinkle a few more seeds than you require to account for some failing to germinate, then layer over with more soil. Water the medium thoroughly at the outset. Chillies appreciate dry and wet cycles, so avoid the temptation to water your plant too often. Instead, let it dry out (though not fully) before irrigating. Take care not to overwater or you’ll drown your seeds before they’ve even had a chance to develop – again, good drainage is key. How Many Chilli Plants Per Pot? Once you are ready to transplant your seeds into pots, it’s advisable to give your plants plenty of room to stretch their legs. This means usually only placing one seedling into its own individual pot. One top tip for the transplanting process is that chilli seedlings can be planted at any depth, so feel free to submerge a decent portion of leggy and tall stems in the soil. This will help them to stay upright and prevent them from becoming overwhelmed by their own height. Caring For Chilli Plants In Containers Aside from ensuring that chilli plants have their basic needs of light, warmth, water and fertiliser met, there are a number of other measures you can take to ensure your plant performs as well as possible. Chief among these is your pinching, pruning and trimming habits. By removing excess foliage and harvesting chillies regularly, you can ensure that your plant devotes enough attention to regeneration, which results in more vigorous growth and a greater yield. “Picking chillies whilst still green will produce a milder taste and encourage the plant to keep fruiting,” shares Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “If you prefer a hotter taste then leave the chilli on the plant to change colour. “Check the heat of your chilli when you are choosing your seed or plant (measured on the Scoville scale – the higher, the hotter) to make sure you can eat what you grow!” You should also not be afraid to provide support to your chilli plant once it exceeds 30cm in height (or if it simply looks like it needs a helping hand). Staking and tying the plant will give it the encouragement it needs to reach its full potential. Once harvested, your chillies can be used as fresh ingredients, or else frozen in your freezer or dried out. Dried chillies can then be blitzed into very small flakes and used during or after cooking to season your dishes.
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10 Essential Tips For Planting Bulbs In Pots, According To Master Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose The Right Container 2) Choose An Appropriate Growing Medium 3) Choose Your Bulbs Wisely 4) Layer Bulbs For A ‘Bulb Lasagne’ 5) Plant Beautiful Bulb Combinations 6) Understand Planting Depths 7) Remember To Plant Bulbs The Right Way Up 8) Space Around A Bulb Width Apart 9) Mulch The Container 10) Use A Mesh Cover For Protection Planting bulbs in pots is a great option for beginners, and is pretty easy to do, but here are some tips to help you make sure everything goes smoothly. Plenty of bulbs are suitable for container growing – and if you make the right choices, you can enjoy longer-lasting displays of blooms and combine bulbs to beautiful effect. Planting bulbs in pots does not usually require a lot of work or effort, but here are some tips to help you get the best results possible and make all the right choices for your container garden: 1) Choose The Right Container Choosing the right containers can make a big difference to the success of your garden. Most spring bulbs like relatively free-draining conditions. It is important to choose a container that will not retain too much moisture, while still retaining enough moisture to keep your plants happy. Terracotta pots are often an excellent choice – they are more eco-friendly than plastic pots, and also provide the right conditions for many bulbs. They are also sturdier and less likely to blow over than lighter weight options when taller bulb plants are grown. 2) Choose An Appropriate Growing Medium Of course, as well as thinking about your containers and what they are made from, it is also important to think about how you fill your pots. “Always make sure that you are using the correct compost and that there is always plenty of drainage,” says Jonathan Hart from Harts Nursery. “If bulbs fail to grow, it is normally because they have become too wet in pots.” When planting bulbs, you will usually fill your containers with a good quality, peat-free potting mix of some kind. Since many bulbs like relatively free-draining conditions, it is also often a good idea to add some sand or grit to the mix to improve drainage. Make sure you use crocks to cover drainage holes at the base so that these do not become blocked and water can drain through. 3) Choose Your Bulbs Wisely Another important piece of the puzzle is choosing the right bulbs to plant – and there are many different options to choose from. The key is choosing plants that are suited to the growing conditions where you live. It is also important to think about when each of the bulbs you are considering is in bloom. By choosing the right bulbs, you can enjoy flowers over a much longer period. Think about selecting bulbs that flower in early spring, mid-spring, and towards the end of the season, for example. That way, you will have flowers for pollinators at each crucial time of the year, and also extend the period of visual appeal. 4) Layer Bulbs For A ‘Bulb Lasagne’ If you select the right combinations of bulbs, you can sometimes layer these in a single container to make a bulb lasagne. It is important, however, to make sure that you understand how to layer the bulbs correctly. “The depth of the bulb planted is related to the size of the bulb and its optimal planting depth,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “One thing I would say is that you want to plant your taller bulbs more centrally or towards the back so as not to overwhelm smaller plants.” 5) Plant Beautiful Bulb Combinations When thinking about how to combine bulbs in a container, be sure to think not only about their blooming period and growing requirements but also about how they will look together. Careful consideration of colour, form and size can help you find great container combinations for flowering plants. You might combine tulips and daffodils, for example, or a succession of hyacinths and miniature irises. There are plenty of beautiful bulb combinations that will allow you to get plenty of value from a single container. “Planting winter interest plants over the top of autumn-planted bulbs will make the most of your pots and be far more inspiring than bare compost,” adds Dan. “I plant well-spaced pansies and viola in my winter pots as they have thin shallow roots, the bulbs soon bully their way through in the spring, and if I notice any bulbs struggling to get through, I pull out the pansy.” 6) Understand Planting Depths As well as understanding when bulbs will be in bloom, it is also important to think about the planting depth required for each particular bulb. Some bulbs (tulips for example) should be planted much more deeply than others. As a general rule, bulbs should be planted at a depth of around 3 times their own height. Though this can vary somewhat depending on which bulbs you are growing, this general guideline can help you avoid going too far wrong when planting your bulbs. 7) Remember To Plant Bulbs The Right Way Up Bulbs should be planted the right way up. This might sound obvious – but with certain bulbs it is not always easy to tell. For many bulbs, the end that faces upwards is more pointed, and the rooting base is flatter. But with some bulbs, it can be very difficult to see this clearly. If in doubt, plant bulbs on their sides if possible as they should still grow successfully in this configuration. 8) Space Around A Bulb Width Apart Spacing can also be important. When growing bulbs in a container, you will usually place bulbs more closely together than when growing them in the ground. Again, this is just a general rule of thumb, and there are exceptions, but you should generally think about spacing bulbs around their own width apart from one another. 9) Mulch The Container It can be a good idea to mulch over the top of the container after planting your bulbs. An organic mulch of compost or leaf mould will add fertility as well as retaining moisture in the container. You might also add a decorative gravel mulch, or something similar as a soil cover. 10) Use A Mesh Cover For Protection Finally, after planting bulbs in a container in autumn, you might want to think about adding some protection to protect the bulbs over the winter months. “Make sure you protect anything on the tender side from frost,” recommends Jonathan. If you have squirrels or cats in your garden, they may sometimes dig up and eat your bulbs. If you have cats or squirrels around, one solution to consider is using a piece of mesh to cover over the top of the pots containing bulbs to keep them safe. This mesh should then be removed in the spring once your plants start to emerge from the soil. As you can see from the above, planting bulbs in pots is very straightforward, and you don’t have to be very green-fingered to give it a go. Just bear the above tips in mind and you should enjoy a beautiful flowering display.
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Choose Dwarf, Branching Sunflowers When Growing In Pots - Experts Share Their Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Potted Sunflower Varieties Choosing Pots For Sunflowers Filling Your Containers Sowing Sunflowers In Pots Placing Sunflowers In Containers Caring For Potted Sunflowers Sunflowers are cheerful and useful flowers to grow in your garden, and they can also grow in pots. Planting sunflowers can be a fun activity for the whole family to enjoy. The large seeds are easy for children to handle – and since the sunflowers grow quite quickly, kids and novice gardeners do not have to wait too long to see the results of their efforts. This guide is written for those wishing to grow in garden containers – if you’re planting sunflowers in the ground, check out this care guide for better-suited advice. Potted Sunflower Varieties If you plan to sow and grow sunflowers in pots rather than in the ground, it is best to choose smaller varieties. The tallest and most vigorous sunflowers will do best when grown in the soil in your garden. Fortunately, however, there are plenty of great options to choose from. We would recommend considering dwarf, branching sunflowers, which produce not just one single flower head, but multiple flowers on the same plant. “If you only have space for pots, the traditional ‘grow the tallest sunflower’ challenge can be replaced with a ‘grow the most flowers competition’ for dwarfing cultivars,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This can also introduce watering, feeding and deadheading into the care regime.” These will offer you the best value in your container garden, and be great for bees and other wildlife. Though traditional single-headed sunflowers can also be grown in pots and even tall sunflowers can be grown in containers of sufficient size. Some interesting sunflowers to consider growing in containers include: ‘Little Dorrit’ ‘Pacino Gold’ ‘Dwarf Sunspot’ ‘Waooh’ ‘Sun Tastic’ ‘Little Leo’ ‘Dwarf Yellow Spray’ ‘Big Smile’ ‘Ms Mars’ ‘Teddy Bear’ Choosing Pots For Sunflowers You can start out sunflowers in small containers. There are a range of reclaimed materials that you can use to make this a really cheap and eco-friendly project. You can sow your sunflower seeds in toilet roll tubes, small scrap paper pots, or yoghurt pots, for example. One other fun thing to consider is having kids make their own starter pots for sunflowers from papier-mache (scrap paper/flour glue) or cardboard boxes. Then you can pot up your sunflower seedlings into larger containers; again, a range of reclaimed materials can be considered. The size of container that you will need for your sunflowers will depend on which variety (or varieties) you have chosen. Smaller dwarf sunflowers that grow to around half a metre tall can be grown in a 25-30cm pot. Taller specimens will need a larger container – 5 gallons or even bigger for the most vigorous varieties. So when choosing a container, make sure you understand how large your sunflower will eventually grow. Make sure that many containers you choose allow water to drain freely through the base. Sunflowers do not like to have a saturated growing medium around their roots. Filling Your Containers Once you have chosen your starter pots and longer-term containers, and have the seeds for your sunflowers ready, you should fill the pots with a multi-purpose peat-free potting soil, or a mix of homemade compost. It can also be a good idea to add some crocks (broken pot pieces) or gravel to the bottom to aid with drainage in the larger containers into which your sunflower seedlings will be placed. Sowing Sunflowers In Pots Sunflower seeds are best sown indoors, in April, to give the plants a good head start. Place two seeds into each starter pot, pushing each one around 2cm down into the growing medium, then gently covering them over and watering them in. Keep the growing medium moist and seedlings should emerge within around 7-10 days. When the seedlings emerge, make sure that you water every day. Remove the weaker seedling from each pot by snipping them off at soil level so you do not disturb the roots. Grow on in the starter pot and then transplant into the larger container once they have grown more and are ready to be placed into their final growing positions. If you have used a biodegradable starter pot, you can simply place this within a larger container. This is a good idea because it minimises root disturbance – but it is not essential. Sunflowers are generally very forgiving and you do not need to be too precious. Move your sunflowers in pots outside as soon as all risk of frost has passed in your area. Placing Sunflowers In Containers Sunflowers in pots should be placed in a sunny and sheltered location. They should be out of strong winds, with as much light as possible. Make sure you choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sun each day. Often, sunflowers will be grown in their own specific pots, but smaller dwarf sunflowers could also be grown in larger containers or planters alongside other annual flowers. Even when growing in pots, it can also be a good idea to think about the benefits that sunflowers can confer on other plants. They can be a great companion for a number of common crops in a fruit and vegetable garden, for example. Place sunflowers in pots close to fruiting plants like tomatoes to draw in pollinators and other beneficial insects. And note that sunflowers can be useful as a trap crop for aphids and other sapsuckers. Ants may sometimes herd aphids onto sunflower stems and this can keep them away from your main edible crops. Caring For Potted Sunflowers Caring for sunflowers in pots is very easy, but one thing that you do have to remember is that sunflowers are pretty thirsty plants. Watering They will need plenty of water through the summer months. When growing them in pots rather than in the ground, you will need to water more frequently and keeping the growing medium moist will be even more important. Feeding Sunflowers grown in a good quality compost/potting mix may not need additional fertilisation. However, to keep your flowers as healthy as possible and get them to grow to maximum size, you should consider feeding your pot-grown plants with a potassium-rich liquid plant feed. An organic liquid feed like comfrey tea which is suitable for tomatoes will also suit sunflowers very well. Protection Sunflowers can be very appealing to slugs and snails. You may wish to take steps to protect your sunflowers in pots from these pests, especially while they are young and vulnerable seedlings. You might place copper tape around the edge of a pot, for example, or sprinkle crushed eggshells around the base of the plants. But the best way to manage slugs and snails in the garden is to make sure you attract plenty of beneficial wildlife. Attract creatures that eat slugs and snails to your garden and this will help keep their numbers down. Saving Seeds If you are growing a heritage sunflower, you can save the seeds for next year. F1 hybrids will not typically come true from seed (they will be different from the parent plant). However, you can still save the seeds to plant next year and you may see new and interesting variations. After flowering, each flower head will produce abundant seeds. Save some to plant next year and remember, you can also eat some too. This is a useful edible yield from this plant usually grown for ornamental reasons. However, you should also consider leaving some seeds to feed the finches and other seed-eating birds in your garden. Growing sunflowers is an easy and fun thing to do, and if you have not gardened before, growing some sunflowers can be a great place to start.
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When Growing Honeysuckle In Pots, These Are The Varieties And Containers To Choose
IN THIS GUIDE Honeysuckle Varieties For Pots Growing Honeysuckle In Pots Choosing Containers Potted Honeysuckle Care Common Problems References Honeysuckle is one of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow, producing beautiful pollinator-friendly flowers, often with a heaven-sent smell that lingers in the air. Though suited to growing direct in the ground, they are also well adapted to being grown in pots and containers, so can be grown almost anywhere. For those growing in the ground, see our Honeysuckle plant care guide which will better serve your requirements. If growing in containers, please read on… Honeysuckles are botanically named ‘Lonicera’ and are part of the Caprifoliaceae family, comprising approximately 180 different species of ornamental climbers and shrubs.1 Honeysuckles can be deciduous or evergreen, and typically flower in summer to autumn, but some can even flower in winter, providing a wonderful scent in the darkest months. Lonicera caprifolium However, not all honeysuckles are scented, so it is well worth checking before growing yours. Honeysuckles tend to grow best in full sun, however, some varieties can cope with partial shade. The scent of climbing honeysuckle is most often more intense when grown in a sunny and warm spot, such as on a south or west-facing wall. Honeysuckle Varieties For Pots Honeysuckles are widely available in so many different guises and forms. From tall climbers to small shrubs, there is a perfect variety for every garden or balcony. With so many to choose from, here are some great options when growing in pots: Japanese Honeysuckle L. japonica ‘Halliana‘, more widely known as Japanese honeysuckle, is hardy to H5 and is a tall evergreen climber growing to a height of 4-8m and a width of 1 -1.5m. It produces stunning scented flowers from April onwards into the summer, which start out white and slowly turn yellow. Common Honeysuckle L. periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’, a cultivar of the common honeysuckle or woodbine, is a vigorous and scented deciduous climber that can grow to 4-8m tall and 1-1.5m wide. Reportedly hardy in all of the UK, it should be able to cope with the worst of any British winter. With a long flowering season, it produces red berries come autumn. Delavay Honeysuckle L. similis var delavayi, or Delavay honeysuckle, is a hardy and semi-evergreen shrub that can sprawl to a height of 4-8m and a width of 1-1.5m over time, but is often grown as a climber. Flowering from June to September it produces beautifully scented cream coloured flowers that turn yellow as summer progresses. Winter Honeysuckle L. fragrantissima, or winter honeysuckle is a semi-evergreen shrub that produces delightfully scented white flowers between December and March. This grows to a height of 1.5-2.5m and a width of 1.5-2.5m. It is best planted near a doorway or porch so the scent can be enjoyed as often as possible during the winter. Poor Man’s Box L. nitida, is better known as poor man’s box. A small-leaved evergreen variety that can be small and compact and thus perfect for hedges or topiary. If left to its own devices it can eventually grow to 1.5-2.5m tall and 1.5-2.5m wide. Growing Honeysuckle In Pots It may be true that some honeysuckles don’t do as well in a pot when compared to being planted directly in the ground, but the majority will grow perfectly well. The huge advantage of growing in a pot is that they can be grown on a terrace or balcony and can be moved around to find the best position. With this in mind, in their native habitats, climbing honeysuckles tend to have their roots in the shade and their stems reaching for the sky. Honeysuckles are best planted in spring, as the temperatures begin to rise and they have several months to establish before winter sets in. To plant, half fill the pot or container with compost, place the plant in the pot at the same depth as previously planted and backfill around the plant, firming in gently. Water well, top-up any receded soil as necessary and tie in any shoots to the supports. Choosing Containers When it comes to choosing a pot or container for a honeysuckle plant, it is usually a case of the bigger the better – ideally at least two or three times as big as its current pot. This will allow for the roots to spread wide and deep and encourage the shrub or climber to grow well. Honeysuckles will turn up their feet if subjected to waterlogged soil, so adequate drainage holes are a must so any excess water can freely drain away. Using pot risers or feet may help any excess water drain away, as they lift the pot a few centimetres off the ground. Potted Honeysuckle Care When growing honeysuckle in a pot or container it is important to use a free-draining, rich and good quality compost, such as John Innes no 3, which is recommended for shrubs and climbers. If growing a large honeysuckle shrub or climber then support for the plant to grow upwards is generally required. Supports are best installed at the time of planting so the new young shoots can be trained in. Supports can include wooden trellis, bamboo canes or metal obelisks. Even though some honeysuckles are self-twinning, they will benefit from tying in, especially when first establishing themselves. Watering & Feeding Most honeysuckles will grow best in moist, but free-draining soil and if grown in pots will require regular watering throughout the growing season. Since the nutrients in the pot will need replacing over time, it is recommended to feed annually in spring with a general fertiliser and once again later in the growing season. A good mulch of organic matter in the spring is a good idea as well, as it will help conserve moisture during the hotter months. Pruning Honeysuckle pruning depends on the variety. L. japonica ‘Halliana’ and other climbing honeysuckles fall into pruning group 11 and require any congested stems to be thinned out and overgrown shoots reduced to just above a healthy bud in the spring. Reducing stems by up to two-thirds each spring can help ensure the plant does not out-grow its pot and encourages fresh growth each year which flowers in late spring. If the plant needs renovating, which it may do after several years, the plant can be cut down in spring to 60cm from ground level, from which it will grow again. The shrubby L. fragrantissima, on the other hand, is specified as pruning group 2 and does not necessarily need pruning. However, it can be trimmed to size immediately after flowering in April or May, but no later. Common Problems Honeysuckle Aphid Honeysuckles are generally pest and disease-free – however, they can be susceptible to aphids. Aphids or ‘greenfly’ as they are commonly known, are sap-sucking insects which often leave behind a sticky honeydew substance. It is important to start checking honeysuckle plants for aphids from spring onwards, as if caught early control measures can be taken, before a larger infestation potentially causes damage. Controls can include squishing by hand and encouraging aphids’ predators (including hoverflies, ladybirds and ground beetles) into the nearby area. Organic sprays such as fatty acids and plant oils can prove effective or with severe infestations, contact insecticides may need to be used. However, it is important not to spray plants when in flower as this presents a danger to pollinators. Mildew Honeysuckles can be susceptible to powdery mildew, especially during the summer months. Powdery mildew is caused by fungal spores and can sometimes indicate that the roots of the plant are dry. Increasing air circulation can help prevent powdery mildew from developing, so make sure the plant is not overcrowded by other plants. “During a dry spring when young growth is emerging, it’s important to ensure honeysuckles are kept well watered at the roots, as this is the most effective way to prevent powdery mildew,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. If your honeysuckle is affected by mildew it is important to collect and dispose of the affected fallen leaves and flowers, as this will help break the cycle of new spores developing in the following spring. For severe cases, fungicides such as Tebuconazole and Triticonazole have been approved for the control of mildew on ornamental plants, but are only recommended as a last resort and after non-chemical controls have been tried. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998d, July 20). Caprifoliaceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Caprifoliaceae
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Potted Peonies - 'Provide Plenty Of Space For Their Growth' Says Carol Adelman
IN THIS GUIDE Potted Peony Varieties Choosing Pots For Peonies Filling Your Pots Siting Peonies In Planters Planting Peonies In Pots Potted Peony Care Peonies are attractive, traditional cottage garden plants that can (contrary to some opinions) grow well in suitable pots. However, as deep-rooted plants, peonies do require deep pots or containers. They will be more challenging to grow in pots than in the ground. Remember, peonies are large and vigorous plants – and as with so many other plants, it will be far easier to grow them in beds or borders. But, you can still grow them in large pots if you are lacking in outdoor space. Potted Peony Varieties ‘Itoh’ Peonies Some peonies which are better suited to growing in containers include: Paeonia ‘Oslo” P. ‘Singing in the Rain’ P. ‘Dublin’ P. ‘Moscow’ P. ‘Border Charm’ P. ‘Bartzella’ P. ‘Gay paree’ P. ‘Magical Mystery Tour’ Choosing Pots For Peonies According to Carol Adelman, President of the Pacific Northwest Peony Society, providing plenty of space for peonies to grow is one of the most important factors when caring for these plants. “Provide plenty of space for their growth. The roots grow out to the sides. “Think of going to market and finding carrots with the tops on, then setting them down, all spread out in a circle. “That is how a peony root grows – out every side.” It is therefore best to start off peonies in a large pot that is at least 50cm deep and 50cm wide. As your peonies grow, however, you will of course have to think about transferring it to a larger container. It is likely that you will have to increase the container size every 3-4 years. Be sure to choose a pot which is able to drain freely, as peony tubers can rot in waterlogged conditions. Ensure that there are plenty of drainage holes in the base and that water can flow out of these freely. Filling Your Pots Peonies need a fertile and free-draining growing medium. A general-purpose peat-free compost or potting mix, ideally mixed with topsoil or loam-based, should be amended with horticultural grit or perlite to improve drainage. Remember that it will be important to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season, but not boggy. Make sure you leave 2.5cm space as a minimum for water at the top of the container, above the growing medium and mulch which should be added on top. Siting Peonies In Planters Peonies in pots should be positioned in a sheltered spot, in full sun or partial shade. It is very important to think about how you will keep the plants protected from strong winds. And you should also be sure to think about the ease of watering when choosing where to place plants in pots. It can also be a good idea to consider other plants which bloom concurrently and which could look good grown in pots close to peonies in containers. Irises, Lavender, Salvias and Alliums are all good options to consider, for example. Roses might also be grown in pots close by. Planting Peonies In Pots Peonies are usually purchased either as bare-root specimens, to be planted out in late autumn, or as potted plants which are purchased and repotted in the spring. When planting peonies in pots, it is very important to plant them to the right depth. The crown of the plant should be no more than 2.5-5cm below the soil – planting too deep can reduce flowering. Be sure to mulch after planting with well-rotted organic matter. A homemade compost or well-rotted manure can work well. This mulch will add slow-release fertility, and prevent excessive evaporation from the soil surface, helping to reduce water needs. Be sure to leave a clear space around the crown and developing buds as these may otherwise be damaged or begin to rot. Potted Peony Care Caring for peonies in pots or other containers is not always easy. However, it can be relatively straightforward as long as you bear the following in mind: Support Some peonies benefit from staking, since they have larger flower heads and can sometimes struggle to hold these up without some support. Be sure to place supports in your pots when planting if these will be required for the cultivar or cultivars you are growing. Watering Peonies grown in the ground will typically require regular watering in dry weather over the first year as they become established – but they will not usually require regular watering in the UK on an ongoing basis. However, things are a little different when peonies are grown in pots, since containers will dry out far more quickly, and peonies’ deep roots will not be able to delve deep to seek out water. Though peonies like free-draining conditions and are relatively drought-tolerant, it is important to keep your growing medium moist throughout the growing season when growing peonies in pots. Feeding As well as providing a good quality organic mulch around your plants, you should also feed your peonies in pots at least once a year in spring with a good quality organic fertiliser. Experts suggest applying a spring peony fertiliser with an NPK of 10-4-18 (+ 2% MgO + 4% CaO). It can also be a good idea to feed peonies again after summer flowering with a fertiliser with an NPK of 11-5-12 (+1% MgO + 3% SO3). However, making your own organic liquid feeds (such as compost teas etc.) with less precise or scientific formulae can still yield good results. Deadheading & Cutting Back Most peonies are hybrids and do not set viable seed, meaning any seed that did set would not come true. So you will lose nothing by removing all dead flower heads after they have finished blooming. When the peony foliage dies back in autumn, it is best to cut the foliage at ground level. This should reduce the risk of peony wilt disease taking hold, which is a fungal infection – the main disease which impacts these plants. Winter Care Peonies tubers are usually left in the ground to overwinter in the UK when grown in beds and borders. They are fully hardy. However, when you are growing peonies in containers, they can be more vulnerable to freezing. They can also encounter problems with waterlogging over the winter months. If you would prefer not to unearth the tubers, you can protect pots with insulating materials wrapped around the sides and mulches over the top. Grouping containers together, and placing them close to materials (like stone or brick walls) or using pots with high thermal mass can also help prevent freezing. And placing the pot undercover or in the rain shadow of a wall can help reduce waterlogging issues that can lead to rot. You could also move the container (or just the tubers) into a cool space for overwintering, before repositioning or replanting them in spring. Division Peonies are long-lived plants and grow steadily. Over time, they can make large clumps, and after potting up over the years, you may find that they outgrow the largest suitable container which is practicable. Dividing mature peonies in late autumn will allow you to split your plant and repot sections into smaller containers, as well as giving the plant a new lease of life and boosting the blooms which may have begun to decline in number over time. New plants from divisions will be clones of the parent plant and they should bloom after a couple of years. “Division will be particularly important with container-grown plants because of the limited root environment,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Division will keep the plants rejuvenated and provides the opportunity to refresh the compost at the same time.” Though growing peonies in pots can be a challenge, you may find it worthwhile to be able to enjoy these blousy, colourful blooms in your container garden. See our full peonies care guide for tips on planting them in the ground.
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Beware Delphiniums Sensitive Root Systems Before Growing In Pots Says Graham Austin
IN THIS GUIDE Best Container Varieties Container Positioning Container Types Growing Medium Sowing and Planting Container Delphinium Care References Delphiniums usually do best when planted in the ground but they can also be grown in suitable containers. One challenge when growing delphiniums in pots is that they have sensitive root systems and very much dislike overcrowding. Another challenge is that these plants can grow rather tall, and so can be vulnerable to falling over, or being toppled by strong winds, as Home Farm Plants owner & delphinium specialist Graham Austin shares: “When grown in containers, it is important to make sure that the pot can drain well, as delphiniums hate sitting wet. “Staking still needs to be done, but you should be careful, as the pots can blow over if placed on a patio or another hard surface”. However, if you make the right decisions, they can look spectacular in a container garden, and some may even be suitable for attractive cut flowers. There are two main types of delphinium grown in UK gardens, and both can potentially be grown in pots or containers: The first type is perennial delphiniums, which flower in early summer and come back year after year. Some are very tall – over 2 metres – but there are also smaller cultivars that work well in pots. The second type is annual delphiniums, also known as larkspur. These are annual crops, and so flower only for a single season. But their flowers will bloom throughout the summer months and since they are smaller, they may be easier to grow in pots. Best Container Varieties If you decide to grow perennial delphiniums, then it is a good idea to opt for the Magic Fountains series. ‘Magic Fountain’ Delphinium These are smaller delphiniums that will grow to an eventual height of 75-90cm tall, and spread to create clumps of 0.1-0.5m. There are a number of different colours within this range that you can choose from. If you decide to grow annual delphinium, or larkspur, you might consider: Delphinium grandiflora Delphinium ajacis These are easy to grow from seed and are a cheap and cheerful way to fill your patio containers, window boxes or even hanging baskets. They tend to be a little tougher and easier to care for than their perennial cousins. “Species like Delphinium grandiflora retain flowers that have not been cultivated to have larger, often double, flowers,” shares Colin Skelly. “They therefore have the dolphin shape that gave the genus its name – from the Greek for Dolphin: delphis.” Container Positioning Both perennial and annual delphinium like a sunny and sheltered position. It is important to think carefully about the best place to position your potted plants so that you can maintain them easily, and also so that they are not damaged by wind. Be sure to think about sunlight and shade, prevailing wind direction and also about the water needs of your plants and how you plan to meet them. Also consider other plants in your garden – as well as man-made structures and how these affect conditions. You might grow delphiniums in their own containers, or in larger containers as part of mixed planting schemes. Even when plant roots do not have the chance to communicate, you should still think about how each container plant you choose works in relation to the other plants, and the wildlife, in your garden. Container Types Containers for delphiniums, especially taller perennial types, should be heavy and stable. Even in a sheltered spot, it is important to make sure that any pots and containers you choose will not tip over with tall plants like delphiniums within them. Remember to choose a pot of sufficient width and depth to accommodate your plant(s) and pot up as necessary until you have your delphiniums in a suitably large container. Delphiniums do like moisture during dry periods, but it is also important to create free-draining conditions in a container. That means choosing a container that has good drainage holes at the base; it may also be beneficial to raise containers up off the ground so water can always drain out freely. Growing Medium As well as requiring a moist but free-draining growing medium, delphiniums are also hungry plants that will require plenty of nutrients. For this reason, it is important to choose a fertile growing medium. Choose John Innes No. 2, or any good quality multi-purpose peat-free compost with added John Innes, or another loam-based mix. Add grit added to improve drainage, and place crocks at the base of the pots. Sowing and Planting Perennial delphiniums are usually purchased as plug plants in spring, or as potted plants in summer ready for planting out. There are also seeds available for sale, but not all cultivars of perennial delphiniums can be propagated from seed. Plant out these types into your containers in spring or early summer to give them the best chance. However, you can plant out at any time as long as you ensure adequate water and the growing medium is not waterlogged or frozen. Replant at the same level as the plants were at in their previous pot, and water in well. Annual delphiniums (like some perennials) can be grown from seed. The seeds can be sown in spring or in autumn for earlier flowering, then potted up in spring and placed into their containers for blooms over the summer months. Container Delphinium Care Plant Support Some varieties will require support. It can be a good idea to insert canes or stakes into the soil in your containers, and to tie in the delphiniums to these supports as they grow. Watering “Watering may be required more often during the growing season for potted delphiniums”, says Graham. Delphiniums will need to be watered during dry periods over the summer months – remember, watering is more crucial, and more frequent, with container-grown plants. Keep the growing medium moist but not damp or soggy. With perennial types, remember to reduce watering as temperatures cool, and over the winter if you are overwintering your plants. Feeding Delphiniums need good fertility. One important step to maintain that fertility is adding a good quality organic mulch to the top of the pots or containers that you choose. When growing in containers, it is also a good idea to add an organic liquid feed regularly over the summer months. Choose one that is rich in phosphorus and potassium and avoid adding too much nitrogen as this can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers.1 Deadheading Perennial delphiniums should be cut back after flowering and annual types should be deadheaded to prolong the summer flowering display. Just remember to leave some to set seed if you wish to collect your own seeds for next year. Overwintering Perennial delphiniums in pots should be moved undercover or into the rain shadow of a wall in winter to prevent waterlogging. Delphinium expert Graham also recommends adding a layer of horticultural grit to your container-grown plants in the winter for extra protection from winter cold and wet. Repotting, Propagation & Division Re-pot delphiniums before they become too crowded, and divide perennial delphiniums every 2-5 years. Of course, dividing mature clumps is one way to obtain new plants. You can also take cuttings or raise from seed as mentioned above. Pests and Problems Delphiniums are very attractive to slugs and snails, so be vigilant for these pests. Make sure you protect your potted plants and attract plenty of slug and snail predators to your garden to keep their numbers down. Powdery mildews can also be a common issue. Avoid overcrowding, and under watering, to reduce the chances of issues like this taking hold.2 But delphiniums, when cared for correctly, are usually relatively trouble-free plants. They are often much easier to grow in the ground, but where there is not space, growing them in a container garden can be a good idea. For more detailed growing advice see our delphinium plant care guide. References 1. Doubrava, N. (2022, August 8). Why Plants Fail to Flower or Fruit. Home & Garden Information Center | Clemson University, South Carolina. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/why-plants-fail-to-flower-or-fruit/ 2. Delphinium-Powdery Mildew. (2022, May 17). Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/delphinium-powdery-mildew
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Why Growing Magnolias In Pots Allows You To Easily Meet Their pH Requirements
IN THIS GUIDE Can Magnolia Trees Be Grown In Pots? Potted Magnolia Varieties Positioning Potted Magnolia Choosing Containers For Magnolia Potting Mix For Magnolia Planting Magnolia In Pots Caring For Potted Magnolia You might think of Magnolias as a plant for larger gardens, but some can be grown in pots. In this article, we will talk about which magnolias to grow in pots in a container garden, and the choices you will have to make to keep them healthy and happy. Can Magnolia Trees Be Grown In Pots? In short – yes! If you grow magnolia trees in the ground, you will obviously be able to choose from a wider variety of plants, and they will take a lot less work. Container gardens are generally higher maintenance for the gardener. However, there is one very good reason why you might wish to grow Magnolia in containers, and that is because of their pH requirements. Magnolia trees like neutral or acidic soil conditions. While some can cope with more alkaline conditions, if you have very alkaline soil, it is often best to grow Magnolias in containers rather than fighting to amend the pH and grow them in the ground. Fortunately, magnolia trees have rather shallow roots, which can make them a good candidate for growing in larger containers. Some types have fragrant flowers which makes them great for positioning in pots close to a seating area or outdoor leisure space. Potted Magnolia Varieties M. stellata ‘Rosea’ Magnolia trees can be full-sized trees or larger shrubs. If you plan on growing Magnolia in a container then it is important to choose the right variety. Those with smaller forms and less vigorous growth habits are generally easier to grow in pots. Some options to consider which can be good for container gardening include: M. ‘George Henry Kern’ M. ‘Susan’ M. stellata ‘Jane Platt’ M. stellata ‘King Rose’ M. stellata ‘Royal Star’ M. stellata ‘Rosea’ M. denudata ‘Sunrise’ M. denudata ‘Yellow River’ M. x loebneri ‘Mag’s Pirouette’ M. x loebneri ‘Merrill’ M. x loebneri ‘Merill’ Make sure that you understand how large the Magnolia you are considering will eventually grow, and remember that while some Magnolias can be grown in containers, not all can. Even those which are good for container growing will need a sizeable pot and the right conditions to thrive. Positioning Potted Magnolia Magnolias, whether grown in the ground in a garden or in pots, will require a site that is as sunny and sheltered as possible. Magnolias are actually usually pretty hardy in the UK, however, the flowers of magnolias can easily be damaged by early spring frosts. Choosing Containers For Magnolia Magnolias are usually purchased as pot-grown trees, though they can come in a range of containers of different sizes. It is best to repot your Magnolia as soon as it arrives into larger, heavy containers which can support the weight of a small tree or shrub and which will not tip over easily. You can purchase containers, but there is also a range of reclaimed items you could consider. Remember to choose a container that will not dry out too quickly during the summer months. Inadequate water over the summer is one of the common reasons why a magnolia might not flower as expected. Remember that a black or dark-coloured container will heat up and dry out more quickly. The material from which a container is made is also important – glazed pots are better than terracotta for water retention, for example. It is also important to make sure that your container has drainage holes and allows for good drainage too. Magnolia trees grow root systems very quickly and intricately, so it is important to choose a container that will suit the ultimate size of your tree. Look at the girth of the trunk to get an idea of how wide the container needs to be. A Magnolia with a trunk that is 2cm wide, you will need a container at least 60cm wide and 60cm tall. For each centimetre around the diameter of the trunk, the container should be 30cm wider and taller. So if a mature magnolia tree trunk is 5cm around, it will need a container or planter 1.5m wide and 1.5m tall. Larger containers will be needed to grow Magnolia to maturity in pots. Potting Mix For Magnolia As mentioned above, Magnolias can thrive in neutral or acidic soils. Many magnolias will grow perfectly well in a general multi-purpose compost with added John Innes (or a homemade equivalent). However, certain varieties will thrive in more acidic conditions and so it can sometimes be beneficial to fill your pots for Magnolia with an ericaceous potting mix. Whichever potting mix you choose, make sure it is light and free-draining, yet moisture retentive, to keep your magnolia tree as healthy and happy as possible. Planting Magnolia In Pots When you are planting a magnolia into its new pot or container, it is important to take care not to damage the root system as you do so. As is usual with trees and shrubs, it is important to make sure that you bury the magnolia to the same level that it was in its previous pot. Make sure the graft point is not below the surface of the growing medium. After planting, water well around the base of the plant, and top the growing medium in the container with a leaf mould or another good quality organic mulch. This will help to retain water in your pot and stop weeds from growing up as much around the base of your tree. Of course, it will also help add fertility, providing nutrients as the materials decompose slowly over time. Caring For Potted Magnolia Watering Remember that a magnolia grown in a container will need to be watered more frequently in dry weather than one which is grown in the ground. Keep the soil moist throughout the summer months to keep magnolias healthy and flowering well. “Ideally water in the morning when plants begin to use it, although evenings are also okay,” advises Colin Skelly, an RHS Master of Horticulture. “To ensure that water is available to the plant throughout the pot soil, watering thoroughly less frequently is better than frequently but less thoroughly.” Feeding Magnolias grown in the ground will typically require only mulch, and will not need additional feeding. When grown in pots, however, some additional liquid feed may be helpful. Feeding magnolias grown in containers in early spring with a high phosphorus and potassium liquid feed can promote healthy growth and encourage more abundant flowering. Pruning Magnolias should only be pruned lightly, and after flowering. Remove any branches which are dead, damaged or diseased and any which are crossed and rubbing against one another. You can also prune to restrict size somewhat, but should be circumspect as these trees do not like or respond well to hard pruning. If you prune too much, flowering may be reduced or cease the following year. As long as you choose the right magnolias, place them in the right containers, with the right potting mix, in the right location, growing magnolia in pots is not too much of a challenge. Just make sure you do not let them dry out. Replenish mulch to add fertility each year, and your magnolia tree should be content in your container garden for many years to come.
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