Growing
Boysenberry Bliss: Follow These Tips For Juicy, Flavourful Berries
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Boysenberry Planting Guidelines Boysenberry Plant Care References While the juicy boysenberry’s balance and flavour vary by ripeness, at any given point it combines such luscious tones of sweet, tangy and tart that you’ll want another handful. Made to order for berry-lovers, the Boysenberry is a Raspberry, Blackberry, Dewberry and Loganberry all rolled up into one. Developed by Rudolph Boysen in California in the early twentieth century, this berry saw its highs and lows in popularity over the succeeding decades.1 Overview Botanical Name Rubus ursinus × idaeus Common Name(s) Boysenberry Plant Type Perennial shrub Native Area Southern California Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Large, white open flowers; five papery petals flared open; numerous conspicuous stamens and pistils When To Plant October to May Harvesting Months July New cultivars, including thornless ones, were developed and Boysenberries gained popularity in new regions, such as the UK, though they struggled to retain that popularity. Boysenberry is a bramble or aggregate fruit, like the ones it is derived from, which looks like an oblong and considerably bigger, deep purple blackberry. These wonderful berries combine sweet, tangy and tart flavours. They are rather delicate and do not keep and transport well but they are absolutely mouth-watering when enjoyed fresh. Furthermore, these berries are simply terrific for preparing preserves, sauces, compotes and pies. As for the Boysenberry shrub, it sends up appealing canes that may be mistaken for vines. How To Grow Boysenberry Soil Requirements Boysenberry bushes will flourish in rich, fertile, well-draining soil. A sandy, chalky loam fairly generously amended with organic compost and well-rotted (cattle) manure would be ideal. To ensure very good drainage, add grit or perlite. These plants grow best in soil with a neutral pH. Propagation Methods Boysenberry plants can be propagated by the home gardener fairly easily via greenwood cuttings of first-year canes in summer. Prepare small pots with potting compost amended with perlite and sand, with a deep layer of sand and perlite at the top, then dampen the medium. Take 15-20cm lengths from first-year canes from the greenwood canes, making the cut just under a leaf node. Leave 2-3 leaves near the top of each cutting and remove the rest. Dip the bases of the cuttings in a rooting hormone or in cinnamon and honey. Insert into the pots one-quarter to one-third of the length of the respective cutting. Cover the cuttings with tents made of clear polythene sheets to increase humidity. Each tent should have some small punctures in it and should not touch the cutting. Keep the pots in bright but indirect light and moisten the soil daily. “You can take a non-flowering or fruiting stem cutting, stick it straight in the ground and it will often take,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Planting Guidelines Plant Boysenberry about two weeks after the last frost in your region, which will usually be sometime in April or May or when dormant from October onwards. Boysenberry plants should be planted in full sun in a sheltered position. A north-facing aspect is to be avoided. Do not plant Boysenberries where vegetables are or have been planted. The reason is that some vegetables, such as potatoes and capsicums, are well known to leave behind pathogens that Boysenberry plants can succumb to. Prepare the type of soil outlined above and cultivate the bed deeply, moisten the soil before planting and then space plants by 80-100cm. If you are transplanting a nursery-bought start or plant, be certain to plant it no lower than it was in the pot. Boysenberry Plant Care Light & Temperature Boysenberry brambles should be sited in full sun in the UK. In the chilliest regions of the country, it would be a good idea to protect these plants during a harsh winter. Both the root system and the canes should be covered with horticultural fleece. Otherwise, though a harsh winter will probably not kill the plant outright, it may well kill or damage the coming year’s fruiting canes (second-year canes). Apart from that, the temperature ranges in most parts of the UK are perfect for growing Boysenberries. Watering & Feeding Boysenberries require a fair amount of water, so aim to keep the upper 2-3cm of soil continuously moist. A total of 3-5cm of water per week should be just right. Hot, dry weather will increase the plant’s water needs. Over autumn and winter, keep the roots hydrated by watering at a reduced volume and lower frequency. Feed the plants once in early spring with an all-purpose, balanced, slow-release fertiliser. We suggest that you dilute the fertiliser to about 75% of the manufacturer’s specifications. Mulching Though Boysenberries are fully hardy and the British summer will not affect this shrub, it would be beneficial to mulch it during the peak of summer to conserve moisture and during the equivalent trough of winter, to protect the roots from a hard frost. A 10cm layer of straw and hay mulch will do very well. Remember to leave a ring around the centre of the plant, mulching about 8cm away from the centre. Training & Support The species plant and many or most cultivars have trailing canes and, as a result, need support. Keep in mind that canes have a two-year lifespan and after two years they should be cut down at the ground, so no training is necessary. The best type of trellis for Boysenberry canes is a latticed one made of narrow strips of wood or wire. In early spring, just when you see fresh growth emerging, ensure that the second-year canes (floricanes) are growing on the trellis. Straighten, fully or partially, those that are growing along the ground. Canes will be supported on the trellis in a fanned-out form, where outer canes will be slanted outward. Outer canes and obstinate canes may be fastened to the trellis with garden wire or plant ties. Pruning Boysenberry plants should be pruned in autumn after you wind up your harvest. Cut down and remove all second-year canes. These are the ones that are grey-brown and have produced fruit. If first-year canes, which are green, number 9 or more, thin them. Choose the most vigorous and longest 6-8 canes and cut the others off at ground level. These canes’ green side shoots will bear berries the following year. Laterals that are longer than about 30cm should be trimmed to 25-30cm. Harvesting Boysenberries are among the most delicate and perishable of berries, which has a strong influence on how they have to be picked and stored. The harvesting season typically runs from mid-July to mid-August. Individual berries within clusters will ripen over different days, so it is best to pick Boysenberries every 2-3 days over the course of a month. Simply pluck the berry off the stem with a downward pull. When berries progress from reddish-purple to deep blackish-purple, they are at their peak and should be picked. Boysenberries are notorious for their susceptibility to bruising and getting squished, so take a shallow basket in which the fruit won’t be stacked more than two layers high. They can be kept in a fruit bowl or brown paper bag in the fridge for 4-5 days. Common Problems Boysenberries are prone to their fair share of pests and fungal diseases. The pests they are mostly vulnerable to, in ascending order of seriousness, are aphids, various mites and raspberry beetles. The last-named pest, or its larvae, causes serious damage to the fruit. Fungal diseases include anthracnose and rusts. Controlling these diseases on a fruiting plant is rather difficult because of the inability to use chemicals. Good gardening practices, including correct watering techniques, good airflow and the use of non-contaminated soil, will reduce the chances of Boysenberry plants contracting fungal diseases. References 1. The Boysenberry and The Chicken Dinner. (2022, May 2). CSUN University Library. Retrieved September 5, 2023, from https://library.csun.edu/SCA/Peek-in-the-Stacks/walter-knott
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Pruning Quince Can Allow Sunlight In And Develop A Well-Formed Framework Of Branches
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Quince Pruning Newly Planted Quince Trees Maintenance Pruning Renovation Pruning On Older Quince Trees Quince trees, Cydonia oblonga, superficially resemble apple trees, and like apple trees, they come in a range of shapes and sizes to suit many UK gardens. They can be trained to grow in compact forms and there are even quince trees that can grow in pots. If you have a quince tree in your garden, you might wonder about one key element of its care – pruning. Pruning quince is a fairly straightforward process, but I would implore you to consider why you are pruning and what exactly you are trying to achieve. When To Prune Quince Quince trees should always be pruned sometime between late autumn and early spring while the tree is in its dormant period. Some may question whether quince needs to be pruned at all and this is certainly a valid question. Trees can remain happy and healthy for many years, often with no intervention with regards pruning. However, quince trees can sometimes benefit from pruning to ensure that they have a well-formed framework of branches – with an open shape that allows sunlight in to ripen the fruits. However, the degree to which a quince will be pruned depends on your goals and its stage of growth. Pruning Newly Planted Quince Trees When planting a new quince tree in your garden, you may wish to undertake some initial pruning in order to make sure that the tree takes the shape you desire. The ways in which you will undertake establishment pruning on a quince is the same as the establishment pruning that is often carried out on apple trees. To prune to form a standard or half-standard tree, the aim is to produce a goblet-shaped framework of branches atop a bare stretch of trunk at the base. You will prune out any branches that cross or which create overcrowded conditions in the centre of the crown of the tree and take back new growth to form a well-branched framework. Carrying out this formative pruning over the early years will mean that you do not need to prune quince anywhere near as much once it is fully established. Maintenance Pruning Once a quince tree has become established in your garden, the key is to prune as little as possible. Only minimal pruning should be required, as long as the tree is well-shaped and well-tended. Removing any material from the tree that is dead, damaged or diseased annually and thinning out any congested or unproductive branches is all you should need to do. One of the most important things to remember as you carry out any general maintenance pruning on a quince tree is that quinces are tip-bearers. This means that they mostly bear their fruits on the tips of shoots that formed during the previous year – so these should not be removed when pruning or much of the potential for fruit will be lost. Remember this when you’re pruning or you might lose most of the following year’s harvest. Renovation Pruning On Older Quince Trees If a quince tree is aged and long-neglected, more extensive renovation pruning may sometimes be required. Though we usually want to limit quince pruning as much as possible, over time a tree that is not pruned at all may have become very overgrown and congested. On such trees, it is possible to be a little harsher in how much you remove from the tree when pruning. However, you should still only remove up to a quarter of the oldest branches at any one time, carrying out the renovation required over a number of years if necessary. “One of the keys to good renovation pruning is to not remove too much in one year,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Hard pruning will result in strong fresh growth the following year whilst the desired result is more balanced reinvigoration.” As with younger trees, remember that your goal is still to create an open and balanced form for the tree, with a centre that lets in light for the developing fruits. Renovating an older tree that is not producing as much fruit can spur it back into production in subsequent years. Remember, most of the fruit is produced on the tips of branches which grew in the previous year.
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5 Apple Tree Training Methods With Advice From Sheffield Fruit Trees Members
IN THIS GUIDE Training & Support For Standard Apple Trees 1) The Espaliered Form 2) Pleached Apple Tree Support 3) Fan Training Your Trees 4) Cordon Apple Trees 5) The Step-Over Form Apple trees are one of the best and most common fruits to grow in UK gardens. Versatile and resilient, they can find a place in many gardens. If you are considering growing an apple tree where you live, one important thing to consider is what shape you would like your tree to take. Apple trees can be grown as standard trees and are commonly grafted onto different-sized rootstocks that determine their size and vigour. You can choose to grow a taller apple tree or one grafted to a dwarfing or semi-dwarfing rootstock that will end up smaller in size. As well as growing apple trees as standard-form trees, it is also possible to train apple trees into different forms. Apple trees lend themselves to cultivation even in smaller spaces because they can be trained to grow into space-saving and much more compact forms than those into which they would naturally grow. “Do some initial pruning over the first few years, to shape your tree to a desired shape,” says Julie Bellemann from Sheffield Fruit Trees. “If you do this in the early years, it will be easier to prune once it is more established. “If you have very little space, look into ways you can train your trees. Against a wall, fence or in a large pot are the best options.” When it comes to the training and support of apple trees, there are, in fact, 5 main options: An espaliered form. A pleached tree. A fan-trained apple tree. Along a cordon. In a step-over form. Read on for a little more information about each of the different growing forms. Training & Support For Standard Apple Trees If you are letting an apple tree grow in its naturalistic form, you will not need to worry a huge amount about training and support for your tree. However, it is often a good idea to add a stake when initially planting your apple tree. This will not typically be necessary if you are planting a smaller tree but can be beneficial if you are planting a taller variety that is more top-heavy. Depending on the specific situation and tree, single staking, double staking or angled staking may be useful where required. 1) The Espaliered Form When it comes to shaped forms for apple trees, the espalier is one option to consider. Espaliered trees are trained and supported against a flat surface with a central trunk and several series of horizontal branches spreading out to both sides. Espaliered trees are generally trained to grow along horizontal wires affixed to a wall or fence. “I find espalier trained apples to offer the best option for a small garden, producing a good crop once established in a small pace,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are also a great option for allotments or kitchen gardens, allowing them to be trained against walls or fences and freeing up space for other crops. They also look great!” These should be spaced around 35-45cm apart and the lowest one should be 40cm above ground level. A single-stemmed tree or partially pre-trained espaliered apple tree is then placed and tied into the supports. Side stems are tied down to the horizontal support wires as they grow and all unwanted shoots are pruned back to just 2-3 leaves. 2) Pleached Apple Tree Support Pleached apple trees are trained to have a long bare stem at the base, with branches spread out horizontally on either side of a central leader above a certain height. This is a variation on the idea of an espaliered apple tree, but the space below allows light to come through, while perhaps enhancing the privacy in a particular part of a garden. These are trained in much the same way as an espaliered apple tree, but, of course, a longer bare trunk at the base is maintained. These are often purchased as fairly mature apple trees that have already been trained to give a near-instant impact. 3) Fan Training Your Trees Fan-trained apple trees have a short trunk and a series of branches that radiate out like a fan above the said trunk. This shape is often used up against a wall or fence in a garden to make the most of the space available. Apple trees are best fan-trained in late winter or early spring before their buds open. For fan training, apple trees with semi-dwarfing rootstocks are best. Again, fans are trained to a series of horizontal wires on a wall or fence, though in this case, the wires should be around 15cm apart. The initial training involves a specific series of steps involving tying in and pruning, which all depend on whether you are starting with a one or two-year-old tree. Apple fans are pruned in late summer, unlike most apples which are pruned in the winter months. This deters the re-growth of unwanted stems and encourages the formation of fruit buds. The aim is to develop a system of short-fruiting spurs on a well-established framework of branches through pruning. 4) Cordon Apple Trees Another option is to train apple trees into single tall and narrow vertical cordons. Training an apple tree as a cordon involves allowing a single main growing stem to grow, with short fruiting spurs to either side. Cordon apples are often grown on a wall, fence or other support structure at a 45° angle, though they can also be grown vertically or trained to meet and form an archway or tunnel over a pathway, which can make an extremely ornamental feature for a garden. Cordon apples can be trained from scratch or purchased pre-trained. “Think about the size of your garden and how big you can let your tree grow,” explains Julie. “Trees on vigorous rootstocks can easily grow 4-6 metres tall and wide, but by choosing more dwarfing stocks you can control this height and keep it smaller, perhaps by growing it along cordons.” A dwarfing rootstock on a spur-bearing is typically used when apple trees will be trained in this way. These trees will need permanent support and must be pruned carefully and correctly to maintain their shape and size. The idea is to have a single main growing stem with short fruiting spurs along the sides, allowing the apple tree to retain a very compact and space-saving form. 5) The Step-Over Form One final option is to train apple trees into a step-over form so that they form low hedging or bed edging that is only around 45-60cm in height. This form is like the lowest tier of an espaliered apple tree, without any of the higher horizontal branches. It will look great around the edges of a vegetable patch or cut flower beds in many gardens. A low support structure is created and branches are trained out sideways from a short vertical stem along wires suspended a short distance above the ground. Any growth trying to grow higher should be curtailed to keep everything growing low to the ground. Understanding the different ways in which apple trees can be trained and supported as well as the different options that are on offer should make it clear just how versatile these trees can be and how space might be found for an apple tree of some kind in almost every garden.
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Planting Pineapple Tops - Why You'll Need 2-3 Years For This Long Term Challenge
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Select A Pineapple Plant 2) Prepare The Top 3) Dry The Crown Out 4) Select A Suitable Spot 5) Choose A Container 6) Make The Compost 7) Plant The Pineapple Top 8) Water & Feed As Required Some people like a challenge, others like a long-term project. Planting pineapple tops is both; it’s a long-term challenge! If you’re someone who is looking for a challenging project and you have plenty of time to spare, this post is for you. Growing a pineapple plant from its top rosette in the UK is difficult, but the payoff is amazing and you might be rewarded with home-grown pineapples. Pineapple plants require temperatures of at least 16°C and above and need full sun to fully thrive. So, if you have a greenhouse, you’re good to go, otherwise, a well-positioned window in your home will serve you well. Grow it right by following these steps, and you’ll have your own pineapple plant: Select a pineapple plant to grow, prioritising vigorous fruits that show little signs of wilting. Prepare the top for planting by cutting the top 4cm from the rosette. Dry the pineapple top for 4-5 days in a warm, dry spot. Select the perfect spot (ideally south-facing in full sun) to grow your plant. Choose a container for your pineapples – I would suggest a 25L pot with a diameter of 40cm would suffice. Prepare the compost, using pebbles and gravel at the base to allow for a free-draining medium. Plant the pineapple top into the container and firm it around the top. Water and feed the growing pineapple plant when needed. It will take 2-3 years to see fruits from your plant. This process is explained in more depth in the steps below. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Gardening knife, thick gloves, plant pot, growing medium When To Plant March to July 1) Select A Pineapple Plant Yes, you do have to select a pineapple, as the plant will be grown from its foliage rosette, also called the crown, which needs to have sufficient vigour. Take a pass on fruits that have greyish, brownish or wilting crowns or ones that look less than fresh. Choose a top that has full and rigid foliage, looks fresh and is of a deep green hue. Another indicator is the scent, as a fresh but ripe pineapple will exude a very pleasant fragrance. It may sit for a few days before you proceed to the next step but make sure to avoid undue lengthy delay. 2) Prepare The Top You’ll need a wide-bladed sharp knife and a thick glove to wear on the hand you’ll hold the pineapple with. Cut off the top part of the pineapple at a point about 4cm down from the foliage rosette. Cut away the fruit around the outer part of that top section to expose the smooth-looking, pale-yellow core. Now, using your hands, peel down and tear off several of the lowermost and outermost leaves. This will expose a yellowy-white section: the stalk. It will have a rough, corrugated appearance. Finally, trim a little of that pale yellow core at the basal part with one clean slicing action so as to leave a flat bottom surface. All of the rough, corrugated-looking, cylindrical parts underneath the rosette should be left as is. 3) Dry The Crown Out From the most technical step, we proceed to the easiest. Put the prepared top on its side on top of a newspaper in a well-aired and dry spot where it will get a couple of hours of sunlight daily. Rotate it at a half-turn after a couple of days. Let it sit for a total of 4-5 days to dry and callus before planting it. Don’t worry about leaving it, you’ll have a lot to do in the meantime! 4) Select A Suitable Spot Pineapple plants thrive in a sheltered, south-facing location that is in full sun and is relatively humid. If you have a hobbyist greenhouse, then that is the perfect spot. Otherwise, choose the sunniest spot indoors that is well-ventilated but not completely dry, as a humid environment is preferable. If you have French doors or bow windows that let in sun, you are probably all set. A pineapple plant should get full sun all through its life cycle. A south-facing window can be ideal, but you will have to try to maximise the sunlight that comes through it. The temperature should stay at 20°C and above and stoop no lower than 16°C. Even though somewhat lower temperatures will not kill the plant, your pineapple will struggle and growth will be compromised. 5) Choose A Container You can, if you wish, start with a 5L pot and keep potting up the plant periodically, but be aware that this is not actually needed. Unlike some flowering plants, pineapples do not need to be grown in a pot that is only just large enough for their roots and it is actually fine if their roots are lost in the pot. Remember, those who live in tropical and subtropical regions grow pineapples in the open ground! If you plant it in a small pot and intend to keep potting up, its growth will be adversely affected if it becomes pot-bound in any way, which will not be easy to correct. Eventually, to a lesser or greater extent, the plant will be stunted, the flowers will be fewer, and the fruit will be smaller than it would have been otherwise. Therefore, I’d recommend planting the pineapple top in the container in which it will complete its lifecycle. My recommendation would be to opt for a container that has a capacity of 25L and a diameter of roughly 40cm. Whatever pot you opt for, it must have drainage holes. “To get rooting, you can also try the crown in water for a few weeks,” adds Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “Separate the crown of leaves from the fruit, leaving all but the tiniest coin-shaped disc of fruit at the base. Peel off the lower leaves, up to a third of the way from the fruit end.” 6) Make The Compost Firstly, place a layer of pebbles and gravel in the base of the container. Make a moderately fertile, but not overly rich, friable and loose soil that is very well draining. One-part balanced loam, one-part grit or perlite, one-part potting soil, and one-part ericaceous compost will be perfect. Ericaceous compost is a very important component because the optimal soil pH for pineapple plants is in the range of 4.5-5.5. 7) Plant The Pineapple Top Fill the container with the soil mix but do not pack it in, let it remain loose. Make a small, shallow depression with your hand in the centre of the container. Take the pineapple top and insert it into the hole, adjusting as necessary so that the corrugated-looking cylindrical part is beneath the soil and all of the foliage is above it. Level up the medium and firm it up around the top; water in the planted top. 8) Water & Feed As Required In the initial stages water liberally, aiming to keep the medium continuously moist, watering every few days. After you see fresh foliage sprouting, you can ease off a bit on the watering, allowing the medium down to 1-2cm to dry out before you water again. As the plant grows, keep an eye on the foliage – all of it should be green and turgid. If the outer leaves are not turgid and are limp or wilting, then the plant is not getting sufficient water. On the other hand, do not at any time soak the soil or keep it damp, as pineapple plants can contract root rot and succumb to it. Reduce watering a little, allowing the soil to dry out some more during the winter months, picking it up again in April. Water the plant with a rose-fitted watering can from above so that the water catches in the foliage rosette as well as falls in the growing medium. After a flower stalk develops, you may still water into the rosette, but do not allow any water to fall on the stalk, the buds or the flowers. Pineapple plants do best when the humidity is high (say from 50-70%). If, at any time of the year, the humidity stays low (generally any level below 40%), mist the plant’s foliage every week or two. If you are not sure of the humidity, go ahead and mist – it won’t harm the plant. After the first new foliage emerges, you can begin to fertilise the plant, doing so every 30-60 days and less often during winter. For the first 1-2 years, I’d suggest that you use a balanced formula and after this time, switch to a potash-rich mix. Dilute the fertiliser to about 60% of the recommended strength and feed in moderation, especially when the plant is young. Water the plant before and after fertilising, and pour fertiliser around the edges of the container. At some point in around 2-3 years, the plant will send up a stalk which will bear many flowers, from which you will see your tangy, juicy reward gradually form before your eyes.
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How To Grow Hanging Basket Strawberries - These Varieties Exhibit A Proper Trailing Habit
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose Your Cultivar 2) Choose A Spot For Hanging 3) Select Your Baskets 4) Prepare The Growing Medium 5) Plant The Strawberry Plants 6) Water & Feed The Strawberries 7) Remove Any Flowers References Strawberries are fragrant, sweet and luscious –who wouldn’t want to grow them in their garden? These plants are super compact with shallow roots and will make a great choice for hanging baskets. In fact, in the UK, it is actually preferable to grow them in hanging baskets rather than in beds because a sudden spell of bad weather can ruin the plants. Luckily, hanging baskets can swiftly and smartly be moved at the vagaries of the weather. In this guide, I share a comprehensive but straightforward approach to growing strawberries in hanging baskets using these steps: Choose your strawberry cultivar to grow – prioritising those with suitability to growing in hanging baskets. Select a place for them to grow, prioritising an area that receives full sun for much of the day. Pick your hanging container, aiming for a depth of between 15-35cm. Prepare the compost for your strawberry plants, using pebbles or gravel at the base for drainage. Plant your strawberries – each basket should accommodate multiple plants depending on its size. Water and feed your plants as necessary. Remove any flowers in the first year to focus on fruit production. Read on for more information on each of these steps. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Hanging container, potting mix, strawberry plug plant(s), pebbles/gravel When To Plant April or October 1) Choose Your Cultivar In general, a gardener should consider the fruit quality, the ease of cultivation and the plant robustness before selecting a variety to grow. For strawberries that will be planted in a hanging basket, the variety should also be of compact size that puts out minimum runners and exhibits a proper trailing habit. Shop for a variety with these criteria in mind. Some strawberries to consider include: F. × ananassa ‘Delician’ F. × ananassa ‘Fresca’ F. × ananassa ‘Just Add Cream’ F. × ananassa ‘Merlan’ F. vesca ‘Mignonette’ F. × ananassa ‘Ostara’ F. × ananassa ‘Temptation’ F. × ananassa ‘Toscana’ While some of the above are everbearing types, a couple bear ravishing flowers and another 2-3 may produce astonishing yields, all of these varieties share two common features: they’re ideal for hanging baskets and they taste amazing! 2) Choose A Spot For Hanging Sunlight, water and free-draining conditions are absolutely essential for growing healthy, fruiting strawberry plants. These plants should get at least 6 hours of sunlight daily, preferably 8. A post in the garden or a hook on a patio, porch, balcony or window are all very good spots, but a south-facing covered porch or patio is probably ideal. If the chosen location is indoors, it should be well-ventilated and well-aired. If the chosen location is outdoors, protect the strawberries from any harsh weather conditions and move indoors if it gets really bad. Until the weather improves, keep the basket indoors, hanging it by a window that allows maximal sunlight and is not north-facing. During winter, remove any runners and keep the baskets in a cool place indoors. The aim is that the roots should not freeze. Keep in mind that strawberry plants require chilling hours during winter – about 250 hours during which the temperature ranges from 2-7°C will work out very well.1 Plants should be watered in winter, only enough to ensure that the soil does not dry out. 3) Select Your Baskets One of the reasons that strawberries can reliably be grown in baskets is that these plants have shallow roots. Not only that, they perform best in containers of a similar shallow depth. The best depth is anything between 15-35cm; a basket of these dimensions will be good for 3-5 strawberry plants. “I grow strawberries in a living wall system,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Fixed to a south-facing wall, they provide very similar growing conditions to a hanging basket and flower and fruit prolifically. Divided every three years, they will last indefinitely. “My cultivars are mid-season fruiting but additional selections could provide strawberries all summer long.” The basket should have drainage holes or channels. Though strawberries in hanging baskets should not be watered so as to soak the soil, some muddy water is bound to drip through every now and again. So, if your basket will hang in a spot where the floor has to be protected, place a few sheets of newspaper or a container underneath the basket. 4) Prepare The Growing Medium In general, these plants thrive in fertile soil that has a neutral to alkaline pH and is free-draining. For strawberries in any type of container, the best soil is a potting mix that is peat-free. Before filling the basket with the medium, put a thin layer of small pebbles and grit to facilitate drainage at the bottom. The best fertiliser for strawberries is a potash-oriented formula; do not use an ericaceous fertiliser. As for other types of containers, a liquid formulation will be very convenient. 5) Plant The Strawberry Plants Strawberry seeds are, of course, available and strawberries are often grown from seed. However, most strawberry varieties grown from seeds are alpine strawberries and they are not the most suitable varieties for hanging baskets. The bare roots or starts should be planted in between the centre and the edge of the basket so you can fit 3-5 in a basket. Firstly, dampen the medium but do not soak it. Next, simply scoop out some compost with your hand, take your plant, gently spread out its roots and tuck it in the hole. Be sure not to set it too deep and the compost should not come up over the green part of the stem. Backfill the hole with your hand, pat down the compost and dampen it as you dab it down. 6) Water & Feed The Strawberries Strawberry plants need very regular watering and fertilising, more so than most other fruiting plants and trees. Plants should be watered almost every day, depending on the weather and the exposure to the sun. Except in winter, the soil should be made moist all the way through, but never soaked. Simply test the top 3-4cm of the compost with a finger to know when to water. It should not get completely dry for any great length of time during the growing season. If you see any more water than the occasional trickle coming through the basket, this is probably an indicator of overwatering. Try to water in the early part of the morning and try not to wet the foliage or fruit. Fertilise the plants with a liquid formula, feeding them every 2-4 weeks during the growing season at 70-75% of the dilution instructed by the manufacturer. Pour fertiliser away from the plants and the roots. 7) Remove Any Flowers Strawberry plants are perennials that should give you 3-4 years of a good harvest, but they can do that only if you give them the first year off. The plant, specifically the roots, needs to develop properly so that it can produce fruit of top quality and quantity. To achieve this objective, during the first year only, pinch or cut off all the flowers. For June-bearing types, you’ll remove the flowers once and that will be that, but for everbearing types, remove all of the flowers during the plant’s first year. References 1. Tanino, K. K., & Wang, R. (2008). Modeling Chilling Requirement and Diurnal Temperature Differences on Flowering and Yield Performance in Strawberry Crown Production. American Society for Horticultural Science, 43(7), 2060–2065. https://doi.org/10.21273/hortsci.43.7.2060
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Sow Aubergines Between January And March Indoors - Emily Cupit Shows How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Aubergines 1) Choose & Source Your Aubergine Seeds 2) Decide Where To Sow & Grow 3) Prepare The Containers For Sowing 4) Sow Your Aubergine Seeds 5) Pot Up Seedlings Or Plant Out Growing your own aubergines from seed is certainly not the simplest of gardening jobs. However, as long as you can provide plenty of sunshine and warmth for this heat-loving crop through the summer months, it is possible. New cultivars make it a little easier for gardeners in the British Isles to grow aubergines at home. Sow aubergine seeds indoors early in the year for the best chances of a successful harvest later in the year. Seeds are typically sown between January and March indoors, or occasionally, in the very warmest areas, in April outside where they are to grow. To grow aubergines from seed: Choose and source your aubergine seeds. Decide where to sow and grow your aubergines. Prepare the sowing areas. Sow your aubergine seeds in a heated propagator or warm location indoors. Grow on indoors then pot up or plant out between April and early June (depending on growing location). Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Pots, seed-starting compost, aubergine seeds, heated propagator (optional) When To Sow January to March (indoors), March to April (outdoors) When To Sow Aubergines Aubergines, even those best suited to UK cultivation, do need as long a growing season as possible. Therefore, it is usually best to sow the seeds early in the year, most commonly indoors. When precisely you should sow depends on where your aubergines will be growing. If you will be growing in a heated greenhouse, January sowing is typically recommended. For an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel, sometime in February or early March is generally best. If you plan to grow aubergines outside, then waiting until early March to sow your seeds is generally recommended. 1) Choose & Source Your Aubergine Seeds Of course, if you want to grow aubergines from seed then the first step will be to source your seeds in the first place. Choosing an aubergine variety suited to growing in the cooler British climate is important. Some good options include ‘Bonita’, ‘Clara’, ‘Garline’ and ‘Kaberi’, all of which have an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. You can see that I have chosen to grow ‘Black Beauty’. 2) Decide Where To Sow & Grow Once you have your seeds and ideally before you even consider growing aubergines, you need to think carefully about where you will sow and grow these plants. It is important to make sure that you have a suitable spot for sowing and a suitable location to grow the crop. To sow aubergines, you need to have a location for sowing where temperatures can be maintained between 18-21°C. Typically, this will be a location within your home in a heated space or in a heated propagator – a piece of equipment that will greatly increase your chances of successful germination. To grow aubergines, you need to have a warm spot too. Aubergines are sun and heat-loving plants that will do best during warm summers or undercover here in the UK. They will usually perform best in a greenhouse or an unheated polytunnel, though aubergines can be grown outside in the mildest and warmest regions of the south. 3) Prepare The Containers For Sowing Once you have a plan in place for where you will sow and grow aubergines where you live, you can think about sowing your seeds. As mentioned above, when you sow will depend on where you plan to grow. But in all cases, aubergine seeds are sown in pots or modules filled with a suitable peat-free seed starting compost. Prepare your containers, growing medium and heated propagator (if you have one), ensuring that they are ready for sowing. 4) Sow Your Aubergine Seeds Sow the seeds into moist seed-starting compost, covering them lightly. Remember to place them in a propagator or another spot with temperatures between 18-21°C. Keep them in this warm location until they germinate, then move to a sunny windowsill or under grow lights so they do not get leggy from lack of light. 5) Pot Up Seedlings Or Plant Out Grow aubergine seedlings indoors, then pot up in 9-23cm pots when the pots are filled with roots that are just beginning to emerge from the holes at the base. This is typically done in April if you are growing in a heated greenhouse, in early May if sowing undercover but in an unheated space and in late May or early June if they are growing outdoors. Aubergines can also be planted in the ground in the very warmest, sunniest and most sheltered areas in the south. “Growing in a polytunnel or greenhouse will dramatically increase the prospects for aubergines in most UK locations,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They prefer stable, warm conditions with plenty of light and will not like prolonged spells of wet, cool weather that are a feature of UK summers.” Only plant out once there is absolutely no risk of frost and, ideally, warm the soil with cloches or row covers before planting.
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You Can Propagate New Blueberry Shrubs By Using Softwood Or Semi-Hardwood Cuttings
IN THIS GUIDE When To Take Blueberry Cuttings 1) Softwood Cuttings 2) Semi-Hardwood Cuttings A blueberry bush is among the most rewarding shrubs you can grow. It starts putting out buds in early spring and these bloom into delightful white or pink flowers by late spring. A side-attraction is all those bees and butterflies that are drawn to the bush. When summer begins, your blueberry bush will be overflowing with flowers and, by the time it ends, you can pick mouth-watering blueberries that are then followed by a beautiful foliage show. Blueberry bushes can be propagated from cuttings without difficulty in two different ways: By taking softwood cuttings from a blueberry bush in May. By taking semi-hardwood cuttings in July. These methods are explained in depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, pruning shears, secateurs, polythene bag When To Propagate May or July (depending on the method) When To Take Blueberry Cuttings The popular cultivars, which are commonly deciduous, can be propagated from softwood cuttings in late spring or semi-hardwood cuttings in July, though the former method is certainly the one I would recommend. This is because spring is the prime season for starting new plants and softwood cuttings have more vitality and rooting potential than other kinds of cuttings. However, evergreen varieties take much more reliably from semi-hardwood cuttings that are collected in the middle of summer. 1) Softwood Cuttings Regardless of the method, a day or two before you intend to take the cutting, prepare a small pot with a mix of 1/3 perlite or grit, 1/3 ericaceous compost and 1/3 peat moss. The pot should have drainage holes. On a sunny morning in May, inspect your blueberry bush for a fresh green shoot that is over 12cm in length. It should have young leaves and no flowering buds. Shoots nearer the top of the bush are preferred. Cut a length of 10-12cm off this shoot, making the cut just below a leaf node. Allow the 3-4 uppermost leaves to remain on the shoot and pluck off all the rest. Dip the base of the cutting about 4cm deep in rooting hormone powder. Alternatively, dip it in the tried-and-true combination of powdered cinnamon and (preferably herbal) honey. Make a hole with a dibber or pencil in the prepared pot and insert the cutting about 4cm deep. Carefully pat down the medium and water it thoroughly with stored rainwater. Do not use untreated tap water. Put the pot where it will get several hours of indirect or filtered sunlight in a spot that is not too cold – normal room temperature is fine, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “I use the bottom shelf of the bench in my greenhouse for new softwood and sem-hardwood cuttings. “I find that this provides the benefit of the warmth of the greenhouse whilst providing some shade from the pots above to prevent heat stress in full sun.” You can help the cutting along by putting a perforated polythene bag loosely over it to simulate humid conditions. To ensure the bag does not rest on the cutting, insert 3 canes at equal distances at the edges of the pot. Fasten the polythene bag by sticking the opening of the bag to the sides of the pot with 4 pieces of tape. Water the cutting every day with rainwater. If you have to use tap water, you should determine its pH level and acidify it as needed. Take off the polythene bag every day for about 20 minutes. If the cutting begins to bend, carefully insert a firm twig or even a pencil near the cutting so that it can lean against the support, but do not tie the cutting to it. From this point on, you just have to be patient. Blueberry cuttings take root in about 8 weeks, but you may not even know it until about 12 weeks, which is when vegetation buds may form. If the cutting has not shrivelled and if the original leaves are still attached, your cutting will someday become a blueberry bush. As soon as you spot vegetative buds, remove the polythene bag. Slowly decrease the amount and frequency of watering and gradually increase exposure to sunlight. After the cutting has sprouted several leaves and has branched well, it should be re-potted. 2) Semi-Hardwood Cuttings On a clear July morning, look over your blueberry shrub for a branch that is from the ongoing year’s growth, is turning brown and is hardening along its lower part. It should not have flowers or fruit. Remove this branch as if you are pruning it. Cut this branch further from its base so that the cutting is 12-14cm long, making the incision just below a leaf node. Remove all the leaves except for the uppermost 2-3 leaves. The remainder of the steps are just as outlined above in the first method.
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Brown Leaves On Your Apple Tree? These Solutions Can Help With Recovery
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Waterlogging & Root Rot 2) Underwatering 3) Apple Scab 4) Fireblight 5) Chemical Burns 6) Potassium Deficiencies References If you have a prized apple tree in your front yard that is a joy to behold in spring when it colours up with fragrant apple blossoms, brown leaves might become an annoyance. The bounty of luscious, juicy apples that you harvest season after season might be up against leaves that are browning quite alarmingly, and you might be wondering what to do. Well, firstly, you need to try to figure out the problem or diagnose the disease, as apple tree foliage can brown from a multiplicity of causes, including: Waterlogging that causes your apple tree’s roots to rot. Underwatering your apple tree. Apple scab. Fireblight on your apple tree. Chemical burns caused by the overapplication of chemical spray on your apple tree. Potassium deficiencies in your apple tree. I outline the factors that will allow you to identify the cause and treat it below. 1) Waterlogging & Root Rot Though an established tree in open ground is rarely affected by overwatering and waterlogging, a sapling or a young tree may succumb to root rot, especially if it is planted in heavy, dense soil coupled with prolonged rains or excessive watering. The only way to save the affected tree is by digging it up, cutting off the rotten portions of the roots and transplanting it into more amenable free-draining soil. The common signs that waterlogging is the issue includes: The leaves curling up. The browning starting at the tips and the edges of the leaves. 2) Underwatering If your apple tree has the following symptoms, then it might not be receiving enough water: The leaves are covered in random greeny-brown spots. These patches are randomly positioned over the leaves. They occur on both sides of the leaf’s surface. The branches from the tree are cracked and blistered. This problem is the easiest one to rectify on this list, though you should make sure that the diagnosis is correct by checking your watering schedule. You could also examine the soil down to several centimetres for moisture. Give the tree a thorough soaking and then re-commence regular watering. Water in the morning with cool water for the best results. 3) Apple Scab Apple scab is a fungal disease that only some cultivars are susceptible to, but these include 3 of the most popular – ‘McIntosh’, ‘Red Delicious’ and ‘Cortland’.1 Best practice indicates avoidance measures such as the prompt clearance of shredded leaves and the pruning of diseased branches. Alhough fungicides to control this disease are available, they are prohibited for use on fruiting trees. You may treat a diseased apple tree with a fungicide, as long as you first ensure that it will not injure the tree and that you discard and destroy that season’s entire crop of apples. You can identify apple scab from these symptoms: The leaves on a given shoot or branch are almost all browned. The leaves look like they’ve been scorched. The flowers on the tree have wilted and withered. Younger shoots have developed a hook or crook. There is some oozing or canker on the bark of the tree. 4) Fireblight This bacterial disease is a serious one as, unfortunately, it has no cure. To diagnose fireblight, check for the following: The brown leaves are scattered throughout the tree. The browning does not follow any pattern. You have used chemicals on your tree recently. The weather has been particularly sunny and hot and your tree has been exposed to it. If the problem is caught early enough, your best shot is to trim and prune all of the diseased parts of the tree, including the branches. This is a somewhat complicated operation which you will need to research thoroughly before attempting or bring in a tree doctor to do the job for you. Sadly, in extreme or advanced cases, the diseased tree must be entirely destroyed. 5) Chemical Burns “The foliage of your apple tree might have been burnt by chemical sprays, such as pesticides,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist whose previous experience includes 3 years working as a Gardener at St.Michaels Mount. Other symptoms apart from brown leaves include: Yellowing and/or browning of the leaves. Distorted growth. Small, mishapen or curled leaves. Luckily, if the affliction is not excessive, the tree will heal. “Avoid further spraying of any chemicals and maintain moisture levels,” shares Colin. “If the spray was a contact chemical then pruning out the affected area may limit the damage. “If it was systemic (e.g., glyphosate), this will be less effective. “The tree may recover over time but roots will be impacted, as well as foliage and stems.”2 6) Potassium Deficiencies Apple trees require a soil pH in the moderately acidic range for the efficient uptake of nutrients from the soil. If they are not receiving enough potassium, the leaves of the tree might begin to turn brown. The main symptom includes brown edges on the leaves that may spread towards the centre of the leaf.3 Alkaline soil can arrest the uptake of potassium from the soil. References 1. Bill Shane, Michigan State University Extension. (2014, February 20). A review of apple scab-resistant varieties for commercial growers. MSU Extension. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/a_review_of_apple_scab_resistant_varieties_for_commercial_growers 2. Weedkiller damage / RHS Gardening. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/prevention-protection/weedkiller-damage 3. Potassium deficiency | Apples. (2018, April 30). Yara United Kingdom. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://www.yara.co.uk/crop-nutrition/apples/nutrient-deficiencies-apples/potassium-deficiency-apples/?activeSlide=4213
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Apple Trees Are Usually Amenable To Transplanting - But Follow These Steps
IN THIS GUIDE Considerations Before Transplanting 1) Prepare The Tree 2) Prepare The New Site 3) Remove The Tree 4) Transplant And Backfill The Hole 5) Water And Apply Fertiliser Apple trees are one of the fruit trees that are most amenable to transplanting. That should not be taken to mean that transplanting an apple tree is easy – it’s far from it. You can transplant an apple tree by following these steps: Start preparing the apple tree for transplanting. Prepare the new planting site for your apple tree. Remove the apple tree from its current position. Transplant the tree and backfill the prepared hole. Nurse the stressed apple tree. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Gardening gloves, shovel, hoe, pruning shears, burlap or sackcloth When To Transplant February or March Considerations Before Transplanting If this job is done carelessly or incorrectly, transplant shock can kill an apple tree. To cut to the chase, the critical factors to be mindful of are: The age of the apple tree. The preservation of the root system. The new soil line not being any lower than the original one. The differences between the old and new environments. For a young apple tree up to 3 years old, the chances of a successful transplant are very high. For a tree aged between 4-6 years old, the chances are good. For a tree more than 6 years old, the chances are poor, so a tree in this age group ought not to be shifted. The degree of transplant shock (which will be suffered to some extent) can significantly be reduced if the old and new environment and soil are very similar. Transplant shock will, of course, also be reduced if the tree is prepped properly. 1) Prepare The Tree If you know your plans a year in advance, prep a 4-6-year-old tree by stimulating the growth by feeding the roots and doing a light prune during the winter dormancy. In January or February, make a trench around the tree’s drip line that is about 25cm wide and deep. Fill it in with sand, preferably mica sand. This will stimulate the growth of feeding roots. Prune the tree lightly, only removing old or congested limbs and protruding branches that could be damaged in transit. Do not prune more than a quarter of the growth. 2) Prepare The New Site In February or March, a few days before you intend to transplant the tree, prepare the transplanting site. Select a spot in the new location where the exposure and aspect are as close as possible to that of the tree’s present spot. This should preferably be in a shaded position with some sun, as Julie Bellemann from Sheffield Fruit Trees explains: “Taking your time to plant it correctly, in a place with sufficient levels of sun, is very important.” Examine the soil that the tree is growing in and try to match, as far as possible, the soil of the transplanting site to that of the current spot. Also, prepare that same type of soil for backfilling the transplanting hole. At the very least, the new site’s soil should not be too divergent from the current spot’s soil. Thoroughly clear the site of all weeds, then dig a hole that is about 25% wider than the tree’s drip line and about 30cm deep. Mix in a little of the new soil into the hole. The day before the tree is to be dug up, water it well. 3) Remove The Tree On a sunny morning in February or March, remove and transplant the tree, making sure you have time to complete this task in one day. If necessary, mark the soil line at the base of the trunk, which can almost always be distinguished by a difference in colour. It is critical to know where the soil line was at the time of transplanting. Secure the branches by wrapping a few coils of natural-fibre rope around them, tying them loosely. To dig up the tree, you should first probe the extent of its root system by digging around the canopy. Adjust the width of the circle depending on whether or not you encounter roots as you dig deeper. Although a little damage to the roots will be unavoidable, it is imperative to limit this to the bare minimum. When the lower roots are freed, prise up the tree when it is tilted over while supporting it, taking care to keep as much of the root system intact as possible. Wrap the roots loosely in a damp burlap or sackcloth and place the tree on similar material prior to transporting it to the new site. 4) Transplant And Backfill The Hole Now that the tree’s root system can be observed, adjust the transplanting hole so that it is of the right depth and twice as wide as the root system. Water the hole, including its sides and the surrounding ground. Remove the wrapping material for the tree, spread out the roots and place it in the hole, making sure to spread out the roots once more. Examine the set of the tree and adjust vertically as necessary so that the soil line and the surface of the ground will be level when the hole is backfilled. Start to backfill the hole. As the hole is backfilled, keep watering in moderation to keep the soil moist. Also, keep patting down and firming up the soil and try to ensure that there are no air pockets. Backfill the hole up to the soil line at the base of the trunk. You may backfill to a touch below the soil line but not higher than it. “Keep an eye on the soil line for a few months,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It is likely to drop as the compost settles in the planting hole. “Top up the soil level using the same principles to avoid the tree sitting proud and exposing the top layer of roots.” Firm up the soil well and give the tree a thorough watering. 5) Water And Apply Fertiliser Apply an organic mulch (such as bark, leaves, hay or straw) around the tree at a distance of several centimetres from the base of the trunk. Water the tree periodically. “Make sure to give it sufficient water, particularly if it is a potted plant as they’ll require more care than a free-standing tree in the ground,” says Julie. Though it certainly should not be watered as it would be in the growing season, it should be watered more than normal during dormancy, as water will assist in recovery from transplant shock. Give the tree a month or so to settle down. Then, instead of your customary feeding, fertilise it with a high-phosphorous formula. Apply a high-phosphorous fertiliser at 60-70% of the quantity and strength directed by the manufacturer for a fruit tree of that particular size and age. Alternatively, work in a couple of pinches of bonemeal into the soil in a ring below the tree’s drip line. Water in the fertiliser and then leave your transplanted tree to grow.
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