Growing
Fruit Tree Nurseries Recommend These 15 Award-Winning Apple Tree Varieties
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Chosen Varieties Our Chosen Varieties 1) M. domestica ‘Scrumptious’ 2) M. domestica ‘Discovery’ 3) M. domestica ‘Howgate Wonder’ 4) M. domestica ‘Bramley’s Seedling’ 5) M. domestica ‘Ellison’s Orange’ 6) M. domestica ‘Peasgood’s Nonsuch’ 7) M. domestica ‘Blenheim Orange’ 8) M. domestica ‘Pixie’ 9) M. domestica ‘Ribston Pippin’ 10) M. domestica ‘Rosemary Russet’ 11) M. domestica ‘Elstar’ 12) M. domestica ‘Greensleeves’ 13) M. domestica ‘Worcester Pearmain’ 14) M. domestica ‘Red Windsor’ 15) M. domestica ‘Cox Orange’ References Apples are surely among the most popular fruits in every region around the world and the UK is certainly no exception. All apple cultivars descend from Malus domestica, which belongs to the Rose Family, and there are thousands of cultivars to choose from.1 Expert Chosen Varieties When writing this guide, we consulted two of the top apple tree nurseries in the UK, including Tom Adams, the owner of Tom Adams Fruit Tree Nursery. “Before selecting an apple tree to grow, do some research into which varieties you like and select a rootstock that is right for your space. “Popular varieties from my nursery include ‘Discovery’ because it is always a great start to the apple season and is very resistant to disease. ‘Ashmead’s Kernel’ “‘Ashmead’s Kernel’ is one of the tastiest apples ever, is a great keeper and is also very resistant to disease. “Finally, I love ‘Puckrupp Pippin’. It is a very rare russet from the Welsh and English borderlands with exceptional flavour.” Julie Bellemann from Sheffield Fruit Trees explains the importance of choosing and growing specific varieties. “These days, we’re all aware that the pressures of climate change, biodiversity loss and air pollution mean we need to be planting more trees and getting our food from closer to home. ‘Blenheim Orange’ “Fruit trees are a great response to these challenges and have the added bonus of making our communities more beautiful and social places to be in, leaving a natural legacy for future generations. “A lot of our varieties are local to Sheffield and part of our project is to make sure these do not get lost. “To save specific varieties for the future, such as lone trees growing on riverbanks like the ‘Sheaf Pippin’, a tree that is most likely going to be cut down very soon due to redevelopment, is very important.” Our Chosen Varieties With our experts’ opinions taken into consideration, here is my list of brilliant varieties for you to grow in your garden. They are all perfect for growing here in the UK as they are all recipients of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. As this guide is meant for homeowners and hobbyist gardeners, we have selected a few varieties that are meant for small gardens and those that are self-fertile. “Self-fertile cultivars have the advantage that they can be grown singly rather than needing 1 or more companions to be pollinated,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “However, once you have one, if you are anything like me, the temptation will be to squeeze one more in! “I’ve trained my apples as espaliers and then added step-overs to optimise the space and maximise the enjoyment in my garden.” Although this guide generally lists dessert or eating apples, I also share a few cooking apples, so keep your eyes peeled for those. Apple trees are fully hardy at H6 and all can be grown in most fertile soils with a neutral pH. 1) M. domestica ‘Scrumptious’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘scrumptious’ TYPE: EARLY DESSERT APPLE FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: red SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread ’Scrumptious’ in more ways than one, this tree is a marvellous sight in spring when it bears delicate, pastel pink flowers. These develop into glowing red fruit, ready for picking from late August to early September. The fragrant apples have a rich and honeyed flavour, yet it is a complex taste with hints of various other flavours. It is self-fertile so will not need to be planted near other apple trees. 2) M. domestica ‘Discovery’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘discovery’ TYPE: EATING / CULINARY FLOWERS: white FRUIT: red and green SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 2.5-8m in height, 2.5-8m spread A popular and easy-to-source cultivar, ‘Discovery’ has a height ranging from 2.5-8m and is easy to grow, making it a top choice for small gardens. It bears white flowers followed by blush red and green fruit. The apples are crisp, juicy and tart and are good choices for juicing and making cider – as well as eating! Another self-pollinator, these fruits are ready to harvest from mid-August through September. 3) M. domestica ‘Howgate Wonder’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘howgate wonder’ TYPE: CULINARY / EATING FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: red, green and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Among the largest apple tree varieties, ‘Howgate Wonder’ is as vigorous as its tall stature would suggest and it is a prolific producer of apples. Its fruits are designated for culinary uses, but they are also delicious to eat when plucked straight from the tree. They are gently shaded in yellows, pale greens and light reds and the plant also bears pink-flushed blossoms in spring. October is the prime harvesting month for these self-pollinators. 4) M. domestica ‘Bramley’s Seedling’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘bramley’s seedling’ TYPE: CULINARY FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: red and green SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 2.5-8m in height, 2.5-8m spread For those who would like a culinary variety for a small garden, ‘Bramley’s Seedling’ is a top choice. The rootstock determines the height of the tree and it can grow up to a mere 2.5-8m in height. This popular and readily-available tree produces lovely deep pink flowers and fruit with a strong and very acidic taste. It is the UK’s most-favoured culinary apple and its fruits store especially well.2 Late to crop, its apples are ready to harvest from October to early November. 5) M. domestica ‘Ellison’s Orange’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘ellison’s orange’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: green, yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Growing from 4-8m tall, ‘Ellison’s Orange’ is one of the most reliable croppers, producing a good harvest year after year. It bears proper pink flowers and produces yellowy-green fruit with orange or red flushes. The delectable fruits are aromatic and their unusual flavour is noted for the hints of aniseed. It is ready for picking from September to early October. 6) M. domestica ‘Peasgood’s Nonsuch’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘peasgood’s nonsuch’ TYPE: DESSERT / CULINARY FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: yellow, red and green SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread One of the very special triple plays, ‘Peasgood’s Nonsuch’ is a dessert apple that is just as good as a culinary and cider apple. The tree grows between 4-8m tall and is a reliable cropper. It bears pinkish flowers and yellowish-green apples that are overlaid with red. These huge, juicy apples have an especially sweet yet light flavour. Harvest these delicious fruits in September for the best taste. 7) M. domestica ‘Blenheim Orange’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘blenheim orange’ TYPE: DESSERT / COOKING FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread ‘Blenheim Orange’ is a triploid noted for its vigour. This heirloom cultivar bears pink flowers and greenish apples that develop flushes of orange and red. They are delicately sweet with a caramel-like nutty under-taste. The harvesting season is usually from late September to early October. Although it is a dessert apple, if its fruits are picked early it can also be used as a great cooking apple. 8) M. domestica ‘Pixie’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘pixie’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: green, yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Made in America, ‘Pixie’ is a little harder to find. It reaches a height of 4-8m, but can be kept smaller, and is a heavy cropper. It bears pink flowers and pale yellowish-green fruit with light red blushes. The small apples are wonderfully scented and have a sweet, slightly tangy flavour and are juicy and crisp. They are ready for picking from mid-September to mid-October. 9) M. domestica ‘Ribston Pippin’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘ribston pippin’ TYPE: EATING / COOKING / DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread ‘Ribston Pippin’ is another one for the fruit-lover and is an heirloom variety that even precedes the famous ‘Cox’. It bears bright pink flowers and has apples that are yellowy-green with orange flushes and shadings. They are aromatic and have a rich and robust flavour, combining acidity and sweetness, and are best harvested in October. 10) M. domestica ‘Rosemary Russet’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘rosemary russet’ TYPE: CULINARY FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: orange, green and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread A vigorous tree that reaches a height of up to 8m, the heirloom ‘Rosemary Russet’ reliably produces good crops. Beginning with light pink flowers, it brings forth greenish-yellow fruit with pale red tints. Its fruits are well-known for their strong, sweet-sharp flavour. A top choice for juicing, this dessert apple also lends itself to cooking – a true all-rounder. 11) M. domestica ‘Elstar’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘elstar’ TYPE: EATING / COOKING FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 2-4m in height, 2-4m spread A European import from the 1950s, ‘Elstar’ is a heavy cropper. The tree reaches 4-8m in height with half the spread and bears pink flowers. The fruit is of a yellowy-green hue and is mostly overlaid with red marbling or patches. It is a top-quality eating apple with a texture that is not overly crisp and a taste that is sweet and honeyed with a touch of acidity. It is picked from mid-September to mid-October and is self-fertile. 12) M. domestica ‘Greensleeves’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘greensleeves’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: green and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Staying closer to the lower end of its 4-8m height, ‘Greensleeves’ is a top pick for small gardens or for container cultivation. It is valued for cropping regularly and heavily and has light pink flowers that develop into light yellowy-green apples. The crisp flavour of the fruit is finely balanced between sweetness and acidity and can be altered accordingly depending on when it is picked. 13) M. domestica ‘Worcester Pearmain’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘worcester pearmain’ TYPE: EARLY DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 2.5-4m spread ‘Worcester Pearmain’ is another reliable and heavy cropper and is a trouble-free variety that is relatively easy to grow. It bears particularly pretty pink flowers while the fruit has a yellowish base with rich red flushes. This apple is renowned for its sweet, strawberry flavour and should be harvested through September. This variety is self-fertile. 14) M. domestica ‘Red Windsor’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘red windsor’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink and white FRUIT: red SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread A diminutive 1.5-2.5m in height and spread, ‘Red Windsor’ can easily be grown in a postage-stamp-sized garden or in a container. On top of that, it is also partially self-fertile and, for such a little tree, is an amazingly heavy cropper. The pink flowers give way to rosy red fruit that are crisp and juicy with an aromatic sweetness. The fruit is best harvested through early and mid-September. 15) M. domestica ‘Cox Orange’ COMMON NAME(S): apple ‘cox orange’ TYPE: DESSERT FLOWERS: pink FRUIT: orange, yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread This heirloom cultivar is difficult to grow and is the only variety on this list that has not received an RHS Award of Garden Merit. Therefore, we do not recommend it for first-time growers or hobbyist gardeners. However, the fruit from ‘Cox Orange’ is unparalleled. The aromatic apple is celebrated for its complex and delicious flavour, bringing together undertones and hints of pear, mango and more. This tree bears pink flowers and the apples are yellowy-green with rich orange or red shading and flushes. The fruit is picked from mid-September to mid-October and is self-fertile. References 1. The Apple and the Rose. (2021, May 8). Apples and People. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://applesandpeople.org.uk/stories/the-apple-and-the-rose/ 2. E. (2020, September 20). History Of Bramley Apple Tree. Bramley Apples. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.bramleyapples.co.uk/bramley-apples-history/
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Easy-To-Follow Fertilising Guidelines For Apple Trees That Will Boost Growth
IN THIS GUIDE General Feeding Guidelines How To Feed Apple Trees Fertilising apple trees can be difficult as it requires a consideration of a lot of different variables to get it right. As for the kind of fertiliser, granular, powder, liquid, spikes or pellets can all be used, which might add to the confusion! Though a one-size-fits-all regimen for feeding apple trees is not realistic, this gardening task can certainly be simplified. In this guide, I’ll offer general guidelines and some specifics that are a happy medium between various alternatives which should help make this process simpler for you. General Feeding Guidelines Here are some important guidelines when fertilising your apple tree: The younger the tree and the narrower the trunk, the less it should be fertilised. Do not feed saplings for up to 2 years and only start feeding when the tree is a minimum of 3 years old. The proportional increase of fertiliser should be capped at seven years which is when an apple tree reaches full maturity. Fertilise once just before the tree comes into bud. Exactly when this occurs will depend on your tree’s flowering group and your location in the UK. As a general rule, use a high-potash formula, a nitrogenous formula, or both as appropriate. Avoid using pure nitrogen for annual fertilising. Well-rotted chicken manure may be used to improve the soil or as an alternative to nitrogenous fertiliser. For culinary or cooking apple variety trees, you may apply 30-40% more fertiliser than for dessert or eating varieties. How To Feed Apple Trees I’d suggest that you do not fertilise an apple tree during its first two years, but you can still mulch it, as Tom Adams, Owner of Tom Adams Fruit Tree Nursery, shares: “Make sure your young tree is staked, well mulched and protected from anything that might want to eat the bark, such as rabbits or sheep. “Having good healthy soil is one of the most important factors when caring for apple trees.” Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains when you need to mulch your apple trees: “Most loam or clay soils will have sufficient nutrients in the soil to grow apple trees; think of mulching as providing a healthy meal and fertiliser – a bit like a power drink! “Mulching early in the season when a lot of energy is being expended by the tree can provide a boost but don’t overdo it as this can be harmful to overall soil health. “Fungi, microbes and bacteria populations that keep the nutrient cycle turning – think of annual mulching as feeding the soil, which in turn will feed your apple.” Apple trees do best in moderately fertile, loamy soil that is not overly rich. You may also work in some bonemeal into the soil, but only sprinkle a pinch or two outside the drip line at least 40cm from the trunk. This one-time application will enhance the soil’s phosphorous levels. This type of very limited application of bonemeal early in the tree’s lifecycle will promote healthy rooting and, resultantly, strong roots in the mature tree. However, be aware that over-application or repeated application of bonemeal and other strong fertilisers can cause root burn or fertiliser burn, which can even prove fatal for young or diseased trees. From the tree’s third year onwards, fertilise it on the cusp of winter and spring and then again in early summer. “Make sure to put some good compost on top of your tree, mulch it well with hops or well-rotted woodchip, and give it a sprinkle of nutrients if you can,” recommends Julie Bellemann, one of the co-op members from the not-for-profit plant nursery Sheffield Fruit Trees. “Seaweed powder, rock dust and mycorrhizal all work really well. “Taking your time and planting it well with appropriate mulch and fertiliser will make sure your apple tree has the best possible chance of surviving and giving bigger and healthier yields.” When planting an apple tree, make a shallow, narrow trench around the tree about 10cm outside the drip line. This can easily be done using a narrow-blade gardening hoe if the tree is growing on bare ground. Making a round trench is critical if the tree is growing in grass. In this case, a shovel will be needed as it might be necessary to dig up the grass. Work the fertiliser into the soil and give the ground a good soaking or prepare a solution and then pour it around the tree, after which it should be watered in.
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Without Pruning, Raspberry Plants Become Crowded And Diseased - Follow These Steps
IN THIS GUIDE Pruning Summer Fruiting Varieties Pruning Autumn Varieties Raspberries are delicious and are also very easy to grow in many UK gardens. These delicious soft fruits are one of my favourites and one I would definitely recommend if you are new to growing soft fruits. They won’t take up a lot of your time when growing but will still provide abundant yields, and there are a number of different varieties to choose from. One job that you do need to think about when growing raspberries is pruning. “Without correct pruning, plants simply do not have the air-flow and light they need to crop well,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “Eventually, your raspberry plant will be so crowded with unproductive canes, all acting as an entry point for disease, that there simply won’t be room for those with fruiting potential to grow.” However, learning how to prune raspberries is simple as long as you know which type of raspberries you are growing. The key thing to determine when trying to work out how to prune raspberries is whether you are growing summer or autumn fruiting types. Though autumn fruiters may yield in late summer, they grow differently – hence why plants are categorised as summer or autumn fruiting. The two categories your raspberries fall into will dictate the pruning process. Pruning Summer Fruiting Varieties When To Prune These raspberries, which bear fruit on the growth of the previous year, are pruned after the berries have been harvested. The floricanes, those stems which have flowered and fruited, are removed once they begin to die back. You can see the difference between these and this year’s fresh green growth. If you wish to prune to restrict height, then this should be done in late winter, around February. Sometimes, you may also wish to prune out excess or unwanted primocanes (new canes) in early spring. How To Prune Summer Fruiting Varieties The main thing to remember when pruning these raspberries is that you only want to remove ones that have already fruited (floricanes) and not the primocanes. Remember, the canes that grew this year will turn into floricanes and bear raspberries next year. If you prune these out then you will deprive yourself of next year’s fruits. The only time that you may wish to get rid of some primocanes is if your raspberry patch or row has become too congested. In that case, you may wish to thin out some of these. As mentioned above, a good time to thin these out is in early spring, but don’t thin out primocanes until the plant is at least 3 years old, as doing so may reduce yield and vigour too excessively. To identify the floricanes to remove, look for the brown or greyish colour of the stems and for those that have a more brittle texture. This will help to provide a clear contrast with the pliable green primocanes. Use a pair of clean, sharp shears or secateurs to cut the floricanes as close to ground level as possible. Leave the green canes to grow on and tie these into your support structure if there is one in place. If you wish to remove primocanes, you can also cut these off at ground level. If you decide that you would like to restrict the height of the raspberries in February so they don’t outgrow their support, simply trim off the tops of the canes to the required height. You should aim for around 10cm above the top of their support structure or to a height that you personally can comfortably reach. Pruning Autumn Varieties When To Prune Raspberries that produce berries on this season’s growth, called primocanes, are best pruned in late winter. I typically carry out this job in February. “I do make sure I have gloves on for pruning raspberries, as their stems are scratchy,” says Peter. Pruning in late winter means that over the winter months, the plants should have stored plenty of carbohydrates in their roots, which leads to healthy growth the following year. If you opt for double cropping (see below), then you may undertake additional pruning in the summer. However, this is not an option that I would necessarily recommend. How To Prune Autumn Varieties When you prune these types of raspberries, things are generally very simple. First of all, when planting out new bare-root raspberries over the winter months, prune all canes to within 25cm of the ground. Usually, for the annual prune, all you need to do is cut off all the canes at ground level. Double Cropping However, with some specific raspberry cultivars, you can prune a little differently in order to aim to achieve a second harvest in one year – a technique known as double cropping. If you are aiming for double cropping, rather than cutting off all the canes at ground level, you will select the strongest 6-8 canes and leave those canes at around 1m in height, before cutting off all the others to ground level. Double cropping is said to be useful for those who do not have enough space to grow both summer and autumn fruiting raspberries in their gardens. When you prune in this way, you can get a small earlier crop as well as your main harvest. However, it is important to note that this treatment only works with some raspberries of this type and not with all. Also, splitting the harvest can reduce the quality of the fruits, which is why I would always recommend growing both types of raspberry mentioned in this guide rather than trying to get a double crop from autumn fruiting raspberry varieties. However, if you do decide to opt for this pruning strategy, the canes that you left at 1m in height should be cut down to ground level straight after they finish fruiting in the summer. A simple pruning regime for your raspberries will help make sure that you get a great raspberry crop year after year.
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Aubergines Should Be Fed And Watered Profusely For Plump Fruit (But Not Kept Soggy)
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Feeding References Known as the eggplant in America, the aubergine thrives in very warm and humid conditions – which is unsurprising as it originates from South Central China and South East Asia.1 In India, it’s known by yet a third name – Brinjal.2 No matter what we call it, this vegetable is technically a berry and, therefore, a fruit, even though it is most often used as a vegetable here in the UK. “Aubergines are best grown under glass but can also be grown in a warm, sunny and sheltered spot outside if the soil has been warmed beforehand and the plants fleeced for a short period after planting out,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. You might be wondering how you can help feed aubergine as it grows. In this guide, we’ll share everything you need to know about watering and fertilising your aubergine plants so they can stay happy and healthy whilst growing in your garden. Watering Aubergines should be grown in free-draining soil that is kept moist but not soggy. These plants need regular watering and may require daily watering in hot weather. The soil should be made moist down to about 15cm. Before watering, it would be advisable to check the soil down to a depth of 3-4cm to determine if it is dry or moist. If you observe the leaves curling or the plant wilting during warm weather, that’s probably a sign that the soil is insufficiently moist. Instead of the usual and customary cold water, use tepid water for these warm-weather plants that have no resistance to the cold. Another departure from the norm is in wetting the foliage, as these plants would enjoy a daily spray of tepid water on their leaves. This will deter pests, particularly red spider mites, to which the plant is susceptible. Feeding Feeding is key to growing plump and rich aubergines and the best start is to grow them in rich, fertile soil. When sowing seeds, use a low-nutrient or seed-sowing compost and when transplanting young plants, use a multi-purpose compost and a balanced fertiliser to grow them on. When planted in their final positions, start to feed with a high-potash fertiliser as soon as you see vegetables beginning to form. For an easier application, you could use a liquid formula. Feed Aubergine plants with this fertiliser once every 2 weeks by pouring it onto the soil to encourage fruit formation and pick the fruits when they are a bright, glossy and deep purple or black colour. References 1. Solanum melongena. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/solanum-melongena/#:~:text=This%20species%20is%20native%20to,eggplant%20is%20considered%20an%20annual 2. Why Is It Called an Eggplant? (2019, August 20). Wonderopolis. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.wonderopolis.org/wonder/why-is-it-called-an-eggplant
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Squashes Will Benefit From Some Sort Of Support - Try Trellis, Fencing Or Pergolas
IN THIS GUIDE Why Support Squash? Support Options Squash can be useful plants to grow in your garden, and there are both tender summer squash and winter squash to consider. Some squashes take up much less space and are less vigorous than others, but many squashes will benefit from some sort of support. Whether or not support is essential for your squash will depend on which type and variety you are growing and also on where they are grown. “Squash are great plants to grow, even in smaller spaces, as they can be grown vertically and trailed up netting, trellis or bamboo canes and can save on ground space,” says Gardener Hannah Reid. “They store so well, for months and months too.” Some squashes do not grow as long vining plants, while others can sprawl out or climb a long way. When choosing a variety, it is important to determine its growth habits and the eventual size to which you can expect it to grow. However, even those that do not strictly require support can benefit from it, so it is often something to consider. Why Support Squash? Squash can often take up a lot of space, but by choosing the right support for the type of squash you are growing, you can encourage the plants to grow vertically rather than horizontally. This means that you can reduce the amount of space they require, and make the most of the space available to you in your garden. “A sturdy squash support can be a good way to deal with any broad woody stems that are around 1.5m or longer,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “They can be driven into the ground, creating a tepee shape, and plants will generally scramble up these. “ Another reason why it can be a good idea to grow squash vertically up supports rather than letting them trail across the ground is that this means that the fruits will be elevated above the soil. This helps prevent the fruit from becoming deformed or rotting, or having disease problems, and can make it easier for them to have access to light and ripen successfully. Support Options Squashes are large and often heavy plants, so when thinking about support options, it is important to bear this in mind. Some support options for other climbing or vining plants will not necessarily be strong enough to support these hefty plants, especially once fruits begin to form. Here are some support options that, depending on the type of squash you are growing, you might consider: Pergolas Squash might sometimes be planted alongside a pergola and trained to climb up this structure on its southern, sunny side. Walls Or Fences You might also create sturdy support wires along a south-facing wall or fence up which squash and other vertically climbing plants might be grown. Trellis Supports If you do not already have a suitable structure for squash to use as support as they grow, then there are various different trellises that you might create. For example, you might make: Vertical structures affixed into the ground. Sturdy A-frame structures. V-shaped structures. A sturdy archway trellis. Propped ramp-type supports. “Small pieces of netting or old cloths, which will flex with a growing squash, can be tied to uprights to create mini hammocks,” adds Peter. “These support individual fruits on larger-fruiting varieties.” And these are just a few ideas. Remember, you might not have to buy a trellis, as there are plenty of ways to make your own from reclaimed, natural or up-cycled materials.
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Slow Growing Mulberry Trees Are Well Worth The Effort - Here's How To Grow Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Mulberries Planting Mulberry Plant Care Harvesting References Mulberry trees are an interesting fruit tree to consider if you are looking for something beyond the ordinary apples, plums, cherries and pears commonly grown in UK gardens. “I love mulberry trees,” Humaira Ikram, a Garden Designer, simply states. “At the moment my mulberry is fruiting so I stand under it every day and pick the berries straight off. They don’t make it to the kitchen. For me, it gives me so much pleasure that I can go out into my garden and do that.” Mulberries are not a fruit that many of us have had the opportunity to try. They are fragile and difficult to process and transport so are not really grown commercially. You will have to have some patience if you would like to grow them in your own garden since from the time of planting, they can take 8-9 years or longer to bear fruit – even in an ideal location. However, these are beautiful trees, and the rewards are well worth the effort once they do finally arrive. This is a slow-growing tree which is very ornamental, so even before its fruits appear it can still be a valuable addition to a garden. Overview Botanical Name Morus nigra Common Name(s) Black Mulberry Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Inconspicuous When To Plant November-March Harvesting Months August-September When To Prune November-December “I plant Mulberries every bit as much as ornamentals as for their fruit,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I’m particularly taken with training them as a flat canopy over an outdoor patio area where they can provide summer shade. “The particular species for this is not Black Mulberry but Morus alba ‘Platanifolia’, a fruitless Mulberry (essential for not staining what’s underneath them).” Morus nigra, the ‘Black Mulberry’, hails from southwestern Asia and the Iberian peninsula, though it has been cultivated for so long in these regions that its precise original range remains obscure.1 It is a deciduous tree, which can ultimately grow up to around 12m tall and 15m wide. More commonly, however, it is much smaller, and even shrub-like here in the UK. These trees bear edible fruit, compound clusters of several small droops which are deep purple, almost black in hue when fully ripe. These berries have a delicious, slightly tart flavour, yet they can be eaten raw, as well as cooked and used in a range of recipes or in preserves.2 Morus nigra should not be confused with other Morus species, such as the white mulberry and the red mulberry – M. alba and M. rubra respectively. M. alba is somewhat less hardy than M. nigra and the fruits are said to be inferior, though this can also be an attractive tree for gardeners. M. rubra, the American mulberry, is not commonly grown here. Common Varieties There are a number of named cultivars of black mulberry to consider growing in the UK including these most popular: M. nigra ‘Black Beauty’ M. nigra ‘King James’ M. nigra ‘Jerusalem’ M. nigra ‘Kaester’ M. nigra ‘Wellington’ How To Grow Mulberries Mulberries are usually purchased as bare-root plants and planted over the dormant period. Care must be taken since mulberry roots are brittle and do not always take well to transplantation. If you know an existing mulberry tree, cuttings can also be taken as a means of growing a new tree in your garden. Propagation Hardwood cuttings can be taken in the autumn and placed into pots of a free-draining yet moist growing medium, with a cloche (e.g. plastic bottle) over the top to conserve transpiration. Not all cuttings of M. nigra will be successful, so taking multiple cuttings will improve the chances of success. Dipping roots in cinnamon or honey (natural fungicides), and using willow water or other rooting hormones can improve your chances of rooting successfully. Keep the cuttings covered, gradually increasing airflow, and keep them out of direct sunlight. One other old method for rooting M. nigra involves laying a 2-3ft long dormant cutting in a shallow trench. Cover all but the tip (5-10cm) with soil. Black mulberry is the most difficult mulberry to propagate from hardwood cuttings, but you may have success if you try one of these techniques. The other option is to take softwood or semi-ripe cuttings in summer, when stems are still mostly green. Take new green growth, use rooting hormone to improve results if desired, cover with a cloche, and pot up to grow on in a sheltered spot. Green cuttings tend to root more easily and should be well-rooted within a month or two. Planting Mulberry trees work well in a sunny and sheltered spot, either in the middle of a sheltered area or against a south-facing wall. The care requirements below will help you determine whether you have a suitable spot in your garden, and where exactly to place a mulberry tree within your space. Mulberry Plant Care Mulberry trees will not suit all UK gardens. These trees fruit well in the south and south-west but they need the protection of a wall further north for the fruit to ripen successfully. That said, they are hardy throughout much of the UK, and can theoretically fruit further north when grown in a suitable warm and protected spot. Preferred Aspect Mulberries need a sheltered site in full sun. Although east or west-facing aspects can be suitable, a south-facing aspect is ideal. Temperature & Climate Morus nigra trees are H6 hardy, meaning they are able to make it through the winter even when temperatures are between -15-20°C. However, it is important that the trees have shelter from dry, cold winds, and as much warmth as possible during the summer for fruits to ripen. Soil Requirements Mulberry trees can grow in a range of different soil types and pH is not important, as long as the soil is fertile and rich in organic matter. The soil must be moist yet free-draining as waterlogged soil will cause issues. If growing in a container, choose a good loam-based growing medium like John Innes No 2 or equivalent. Watering Mulberry trees should be watered well upon planting and during dry periods in their first year of growth. After this, natural rainfall will usually be sufficient for plants growing in the ground. Container-grown plants should continue to be watered regularly during any dry spells. Pollination Mulberry trees are self-fertile, so you will only need to plant one tree for fruit to be produced. Fertilising In early spring, it is a good idea to feed a mulberry tree with a high-potassium general organic fertiliser, sprinkling this on the ground around the tree. Mulching A good quality organic mulch should also be applied around a mulberry tree upon planting and refreshed each spring. I apply a mulch of homemade compost (enriched with well-rotted chicken manure) in spring, and also mulch with comfrey leaves around my mulberry tree in the summer. This mulch provides slow-release fertility and also helps with moisture conservation and weed suppression. Pruning Mulberries should always be pruned during the dormant period, as they are prone to bleeding sap from cut surfaces. The ideal time to prune is around a month after the leaves fall. Firstly, prune to remove any damaged branches or badly placed branches which rub together. Aim to create a framework of branches for an open canopy. Mulberry trees are pruned differently if they are standard or half-standard, bush or espaliered forms. To train as a bush, cut down the leader to around 1.5m in winter, just above some strong side shoots. Aim to develop a framework of around 8-10 branches. After this, only minimal pruning will be required. You can also train mulberries as espalier trees, so they grow flat against a wall. Common Problems Mulberries can often be hassle-free, but can be troubled by a number of pests and diseases. Fungal diseases such as mildew can often cause problems. Ensuring good airflow helps reduce the chances of such problems taking hold. Pest control is best managed holistically. Like other fruit trees, mulberries will benefit from companion planting and the creation of a guild of beneficial plants that will aid its growth and help in pest control. Container Growing As mentioned above, mulberries can be grown as patio trees in large pots or containers. Fill with a loam-based growing medium that is moist but free-draining. Make sure water can drain freely from the container and water well during dry spells. Remember that container-grown plants require more watering than those grown in the ground. Harvesting Mulberries, once the tree starts to fruit, will turn red in around July before ripening to black in August or September. Mulberries are gathered by placing a sheet on the ground below the tree and giving branches a shake. Then, simply gather up the fruits and be prepared to eat or preserve them as soon as possible. References 1. Datiles, M. J., & Acevedo-Rodríguez, P. (2015). Morus nigra (black mulberry). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.34830 2. Morus nigra Black Mulberry. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=Morus+nigra
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Most Blueberry Cultivars Are Winter Hardy - But These 5 Steps Will Ensure They Survive
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Move Potted Plants Indoors 2) Protect Outdoor Plants 3) Apply Mulch 4) Ensure Correct Growing Conditions 5) Protect Buds If Necessary References The vast majority of commercially-available blueberry cultivars are hardy to H6, which means that they are hardy throughout the length and breadth of the UK and can withstand temperatures well below freezing. However, it’s still recommended that you think about your blueberry plants in some way over the winter months to ensure their safety. In this article, I’ll take you through these ifs and buts and all the finer points as we run through several measures to help you care for your blueberry bush during winter: Move any potted plants indoors or to a sheltered location. Provide protection to your blueberry plants that are outdoors. Mulch your blueberry plants to protect their roots. Ensure your plants are shielded from the north wind and from waterlogged soil. If needed, protect the flower buds. These measures are explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening shovel When To Overwinter Early November 1) Move Potted Plants Indoors If you live in a cold region, your blueberry bush is hardy to H4 or perhaps H5, and you expect a frost, play it safe and simply shift the plant indoors or into a sheltered location. In order to produce flowering and fruiting buds, blueberry bushes need a certain number of chilling hours during winter, meaning temperatures within a range from 0-7°C. UK cultivars are mostly northern highbush types with half-high types making up the rest. The former needs 900-1,000 chilling hours while the latter types need about 800 chilling hours.1 So, by all means, shift your potted blueberry bush indoors, but you should either keep it where the temperature stays below 7°C or if this is not possible, move it back outside as soon as the worst frosts have passed. 2) Protect Outdoor Plants You may well have a blueberry bush that is hardy enough in your region to spend the winter outdoors. If so, you can make double sure that the roots will not be affected by severe cold. Simply wrap two layers of hessian, styrofoam sheeting, or even an old blanket around the pot or over the ground to insulate your plant’s roots. 3) Apply Mulch Open-ground blueberry bushes are best protected by laying a thick mulch around them. Mulches for blueberry bushes should be ericaceous or acidic – and using a suitable mulch can serve the dual-purpose of helping to feed the plants. Mulch made of pine needles, pine bark, other conifers’ bark, and leaf compost is perfect. Leave about 5cm around the main stem and lay mulch up to 6cm. Tamp it down and feel free to lightly water it in. 4) Ensure Correct Growing Conditions Two no-nos during winter for fruiting bushes are the chilly north wind and waterlogged soil. A blueberry bush should not be planted where it has a northern aspect and if yours does, you may wish to consider transplanting it. For the here and now, it would be best to set up a temporary barrier to shield the bush from northern exposure during winter. Be aware that strong winds could blow an unstable barrier over on the bush. Mulching the bush will guard it against getting waterlogged during normal rains, but a heavy winter rainstorm or prolonged rainy weather can damage the bush’s roots. If very wet weather is on the horizon, protect the plant by temporarily laying a tarp around it to cover the roots’ span. 5) Protect Buds If Necessary Regardless of the hardiness rating of a blueberry bush, frost can potentially damage the flower buds, and fewer flowers mean fewer berries. As such, if a frost or unseasonable cold is anticipated late in spring after the bush has put up a good number of buds, they will need to be protected. “As winters are becoming milder on average but weather patterns more erratic, the biggest threat to my blueberry bushes in the southwest of the UK is late frosts damaging the early flowers,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I move my pots to a covered area and back out once night time temperatures have increased again.” You can do so by loosely wrapping horticultural fleece around branches where buds are seen. Undo the fleece during the height of the day and re-wrap in the evening. Remove the fleece as soon as normal spring temperatures are reached. References 1. Longstroth, M. (n.d.). The annual cycle of growth of northern highbush blueberry. Michigan State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Bluerry_CycleOfGrowth_Mark.pdf
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Late Autumn Is A Good Time To Re-Pot Blueberry Shrubs In Their Dormancy
IN THIS GUIDE When To Repot Blueberry Shrubs 1) Choose A Container 2) Prepare The Soil 3) Remove The Plant From Existing Container 4) Repot In A New Container 5) Water Regularly Blueberry plants are sold in pots and soon outgrow them, making it important to understand how and when they need to be potted on. When a potted blueberry bush outgrows its home or exhausts its soil, you have a choice: either transplant it in open ground or pot it up. If you re-pot a blueberry bush, one of the ways to ensure that the bush continues to flourish in its new container is to ensure that the soil pH remains acidic. We cover this issue of soil pH level and other key points in our guide below. Potting on your blueberry bush will be a smooth task with a successful outcome if you follow these steps: Choose a new suitable container for your blueberry plant. Prepare the new soil – ensuring you match conditions with those preferred by blueberries. Remove the plant from its existing container. Repot the plant into its new pot or location. Water regularly and feed when necessary. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, trowel, gardening shovel, goggles When To Repot November-March When To Repot Blueberry Shrubs Blueberry bushes should be repotted during dormancy, when the plant is not growing, which is anytime from late autumn to early spring. 1) Choose A Container Blueberry bushes are available in quite a range of sizes, from dwarf varieties to large shrubs. To figure out which pot size you should re-pot the bush to, you need to consider the growth rate of your plant and its ultimate height and spread. If the rate of growth of your bush is fast, then I’d recommend choosing a pot that is 2 sizes up from its current container. However, if the plant is close to its ultimate height, choose a pot that is only 1 size up. No matter what size of pot you chose, make sure that is has adequate draining holes at the base. 2) Prepare The Soil Blueberry bushes are acid-loving plants and require a soil pH level between 5.1-5.5, so an ericaceous compost should be used, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly advises: “I use a peat-free ericaceous plant for growing blueberries in containers. “These peat-free mixes can be more prone to symptoms of chlorosis (yellowing of leaves), which can be overcome with chelated iron applied in a liquid feed. “I find that when this starts to happen, it is time to repot with fresh peat-free ericaceous compost. “Peat does produce an ideal ingredient for ericaceous composts but at the cost of depleting threatened and carbon dioxide storing peat bogs.” If you prepare your own manure-based soil mix, you can do so with well-rotted chicken manure (but not horse or cattle manure). In either case, the soil you choose should drain well. Fill the new container to about halfway with this compost or soil, and dampen it. 3) Remove The Plant From Existing Container Water the potted plant so that the soil becomes damp all through. Insert a trowel into the side of the pot and move it around to separate the soil from the pot. Tilt the pot, and push it upward from the drainage holes whilst knocking on the pot to loosen the soil. Try to prise up the packed soil with the trowel to remove the plant from the pot. If you cannot pull up the plant without difficulty, it is easier and safer to just break the pot. Remove the plant and gently shake out some of the soil so that the roots are visible. If the roots are compacted or root-bound, carefully tease open and separate them. 4) Repot In A New Container Promptly set the plant in the new container with the roots spread out. Using a gardening shovel, start filling the container with the selected compost or soil. As you do so, make sure that the plant will be set at the same soil level in the new container as it was in the old one. Fill the container with the medium up to the point that the soil line of the plant is the same as it was in the old plant. Firm up the soil all around. 5) Water Regularly Water in the plant; soak the soil through. Even though the plant is dormant at the time you have re-potted it, it needs to be kept hydrated to recover from transplant shock. Thereafter, following re-potting, water the plant regularly. Water twice a week initially and then once a week. The soil should be moist but it should not be soggy or soaked.
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The Secret To Bountiful Blueberry Fruiting? Use Suitable Mulch And Feed Annually
IN THIS GUIDE Use Suitable Mulch Annual Feeding References Blueberries are native to North America and not only produce delicious fruits, but beautiful autumnal foliage and are well suited to our UK climate. Blueberry shrubs prefer a moist and well-drained soil and they aren’t known for being massively hungry feeders. However, there are times when blueberry shrubs can benefit from being fertilised. Use Suitable Mulch Whether grown directly in soil or in containers, blueberry plants benefit from a mulch on planting and annually in spring thereafter. A decent layer of mulch will not only give the plants a boost but help conserve moisture, keeping the soil moist which blueberries prefer as well as helping suppress any weeds. Mulches for blueberries need to be neutral or acidic, as they prefer ericaceous soil. It is advisable to avoid the use of well-rotted manure or mushroom compost as this can be alkaline and alter the pH of the soil. Suitable mulch material for blueberries can include leaf mould, ericaceous compost or composted pine needles and bark. Chlorosis Blueberry plants can sometimes develop yellowing of the leaves, potentially indicating that there may be chlorosis present, which is when the leaves don’t produce enough chlorophyll.1 Chlorosis in blueberries is most often caused by low levels of iron in the plant as a subsequence of the soil pH being too high. Blueberries require a maximum soil pH of 5.5 to grow well and produce a healthy crop of fruit in the summer. However, if the pH has risen above this, it can be lowered by using sulphur chips or sequestrene, which in turn may help the foliage produce enough chlorophyll and return to its normal green. “I tend to use a seaweed-based liquid feed for fruit in containers,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “If my blueberries start to yellow, I have a liquid seaweed feed with added sequestered iron that will alleviate the chlorotic symptoms. “There is likely to be an underlying reason that will need to be resolved, usually related to ensuring the soil pH is low enough.” Watch out for this and amend the pH of your soil as appropriate. Annual Feeding Blueberries grown in the ground don’t tend to need regular feeding, apart from an annual mulch and possibly an application of a nitrogen-rich fertiliser in spring. However, when blueberries are grown in containers, they will need feeding regularly during the growing season to replenish any leached nutrients. From April through to September it is recommended to apply an ericaceous feed every 4-6 weeks to encourage healthy growth and a good harvest. If a blueberry shrub grown in the ground is displaying signs of poor growth or fruit production, it may be advisable to apply an application of ericaceous feed as a one-off to see if it helps stimulate any growth. References 1. Fowler, A. (2018, August 18). Why is my blueberry bush turning yellow and producing hardly any fruit? The Guardian. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/oct/22/blueberry-bush-yellow-leaves-not-much-fruit-alys-fowler
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