Growing
Strawberries Are A Great Introduction To Fruit Growing - These Gardeners Share How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Strawberry Types Planting Plant Care Harvesting Rotating Strawberries are a great crop for both beginners and more experienced gardeners and are also one of the best fruits to grow in your garden. There are a wide range of different strawberries that you can grow. “I’ve got alpine strawberries growing in my garden, which are so useful because they cover the ground so you don’t get the weeds in, but you also get the harvest,” shares Garden Designer Humaira Ikram. In this article, we will focus on Fragaria x ananassa, the typical garden strawberry, though it is worth noting that there are other strawberries you could try which like very different growing conditions and can thrive where ordinary garden strawberries will not. Overview Botanical Name Fragaria x ananassa Common Name(s) Garden Strawberry Plant Type Perennial Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or pink When To Plant March-May or July-October Harvesting Months June-September When To Prune August-September Before we delve a little deeper and help you pick the right strawberries for your garden, it is worthwhile first discussing a little exactly why growing strawberries can be such a great idea. Strawberries are a great introduction to fruit growing. They are one of the easiest perennial crops to grow, and are one of the UK’s favourite fruits. Their sweet, delicious flavour makes them a firm favourite with kids and adults alike. Strawberry Types As mentioned above, in this article, we will focus on the most commonly grown strawberries – Fragaria x ananassa. These garden strawberries are for full sun, while others like F. vesca work well in partial or dappled shade. Garden strawberries are commonly subdivided into several types depending on when they fruit. There are early season, mid-season and late season varieties. There are also a few ever-bearing varieties and a few day-neutral ones. Early, mid and late season varieties are sometimes also referred to as ‘June bearing’ types. Their fruiting period is far more condensed, unlike day-neutral and ever-bearing plants. Though depending on the location and climate, and whether they are early, mid or late season, they can be ready to harvest any time in June or July. Ever-bearing strawberries (which include some F. x ananassa cultivars) are not truly ever-bearing, but they can offer 2-3 harvests per year between June and August. Day-neutral varieties are much rarer, but these genuinely can fruit from June right through to late summer in mild-warm conditions. “I’m often asked what my favourite strawberry is to grow,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Whilst pineberries, white, pineapple-flavoured strawberries, are quirky and fun, I am a big fan of the strawberry cultivar ‘Pegasus’. For me, it balances the desirable traits of disease resistance, size, sweetness and good cropping. “It is a late June-bearing variety crowned with the RHS Award of Garden Merit.” Planting Where To Grow Strawberries can be grown in even the smallest of spaces, so if you have a tiny garden or just a sunny windowsill, you will still be able to give it a go. They can be grown in their own dedicated beds, in mixed perennial beds or borders, as path or bed edging, or in containers, no matter how much space is available. Garden strawberries need a sunny, sheltered site, with moist yet free-draining, reasonably fertile soil. A good quality loam soil enriched with plenty of organic matter is ideal. If growing in containers of some kind, these should be filled with a growing medium which can retain moisture while also draining moderately freely. If you have decided to plant strawberries in the ground, then the first decision you will have to make after cultivar selection is whether you will grow from seed, from runners, or from bare root or pot-grown plants. Growing From Seed Growing from seed is possible, but it is certainly not the easiest option to choose. Growing from seed is usually only an option taken for certain ever-bearing garden strawberry cultivars (and other strawberry types like alpine strawberries or wild strawberries which do not send out runners). The seeds are often refrigerated in damp material such as vermiculite for a few weeks immediately prior to sowing to improve germination rates, and the young strawberry plants need a lot of initial care and will not fruit in their first year. Hybrid varieties will not come true from seed, so our advice is to simply purchase some strawberry runners or young strawberry plants to start growing them at home. Growing From Bare Root Runners or the young plants which come from them can also be ordered or purchased and planted out as bare root plants in September-October, or in April. Pot grown strawberry plants can also be purchased and planted out between April and June. Plant Care Strawberries are easy to grow and care for, but it is important to make sure that you have the basics in place. Here are some key things to bear in mind when it comes to strawberry care and growing: Preferred Soil Remember that strawberries prefer moist yet free-draining soil. They do best in soil which is reasonably fertile too so it can meet their nutritional needs. Make sure that you mulch well around your strawberries to retain moisture, add fertility and, during the fruiting period, keep fruits up and off the soil so they do not rot. The mulch used around the fruiting period should be relatively dry and their namesake straw is a good option. Watering & Feeding It is important to think about water needs when deciding where to grow your strawberries. You need to be able to water strawberry plants well throughout the growing season, especially during dry spells, when the strawberries are young, and when they are being grown in containers. Make sure you water strawberries from below or ensure that water hits the soil where it is needed and not the foliage or the crowns of the plants or fruits. It is a good idea, for the best yields, to feed strawberry plants regularly from spring onwards with an organic liquid feed which is high in potassium to encourage good fruit formation. A comfrey tea is one great option to consider. Fertility can also be ensured by mulching around the plants and by considering options for companion planting which can help keep strawberries happy and healthy. Weeding When planted relatively closely in the ground (around 40cm or so apart), strawberries should create a good ground cover, which can reduce the incidence of weeds. However, especially while the strawberries are still young, you should weed a little to make sure there is no excessive competition and the strawberry planting area does not become congested or overcrowded. Remember, spacing requirements can vary significantly depending on the growth habits, root systems and nutritional and water requirements of neighbouring plants. Certain companion plants can be planted close to strawberries without having a detrimental effect on growth or yields. Common Problems If you take care of strawberries’ basic environmental needs as discussed above and make sure there is plenty of biodiversity in your garden, you should not have excessive problems with pests or diseases. However, strawberries can be plagued by a number of pests, particularly slugs and snails, birds, and rodents – which all may eat the berries before you get the chance to. Encouraging plenty of natural predation in your garden can help keep pest numbers down but protecting your crop with straw and netting where necessary can also be a good idea. Avoiding wetting the foliage and fruits and keeping strawberries up off the soil with a mulch of straw or similar should help you avoid common fungal diseases such as grey mould or Verticillium wilt. Harvesting Strawberries are ready to harvest, typically, when they are bright red all over. Ideally, you should check over your plants regularly to make sure you harvest at the optimal time. If possible, you should aim to harvest your strawberries on a sunny day, during the warmest part of the day when the fruits will be at their sweetest. Strawberries will not keep very long at all when fresh, so you may wish to consider freezing your harvest or preserving it in another way if you won’t be eating the fruit within a few days. Picking fruit with the calyx and around 1cm of stem intact helps preserve the fruit a little, but it should be removed before freezing or preserving the berries. Rotating One important thing to remember about strawberries is that while they are perennials, which will fruit over a number of years, productivity and yield will begin to drop off after a few years. Plants which are more than three years old will not bear as much fruit. Strawberry plants are generally most productive in their second and third years, after which fruit production will gradually drop off. Accumulation of plant viruses is one reason why fruiting declines and there may be no other signs of these viruses. For this reason, it is a good idea when growing strawberries to rotate out older plants after three years and plant a new bed of strawberries elsewhere.
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Growing Quince: How To Plant A Tree From A Pot-Grown Or Bare Root Specimen
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Quince Trees Bare Root Vs Pot Grown Where To Plant How To Plant Quince Ongoing Tree Care Common Varieties References Quince fruit is excellent for making tartly flavourful preserves and confections, but did you know that the fruit of some cultivars is a mellow and delicious treat to eat raw? As for the quince tree, I’ve found that it is a joy for a gardener to tend to. It is truly ornamental, as it is proportionately branched with lovely rich green foliage and delicate pink blossoms. “My favourite plant changes everyday, but one that I couldn’t do without would have to be a quince tree,” shares Landscape Architect Bunny Guinness. Overview Botanical Name Cydonia oblonga Common Name(s) Quince Plant Type Perennial Tree Native Area Central Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Delicate, white and pale pink cup-shaped flowers When To Plant February to November Harvesting Months September to November If you’re looking for a curious fruit, you’ve found it in quince. The fruit is usually pear-shaped, but can sometimes appear roundish – rather like an apple. This is not surprising because, like both pears and apples, quince is a pome. Once ripe, the fruit is golden yellow. Though deliciously aromatic and tartly flavourful, quince is infrequently enjoyed raw.1 It is more often used as the main ingredient in a wide range of foodstuffs, such as preserves, jams, sauces, pastes, and confections in many regions of Europe and Asia.2 Quince is even used in pot-cooked foods and as a savoury ingredient in some Mediterranean cuisines. The fruit-bearing Quince Tree is the only member of Genus Cydonia.3 There is also a ‘false’ Quince Tree, Pseudocydonia sinensis, whose fruit is also used to make jams and preserves. Complicating things further is the ‘Flowering Quince’ that belongs to the genus Chaenomeles. This is a marvellous flowering hedge or wall shrub that also produces fruit, and though it technically can be made into jams and preserves, it is neither as flavourful nor as desirable as the real quince fruit. Quince Trees Quince trees are pretty and, though on the small side, must be recognised as being ornamental trees and even landscape trees in their own right. Correctly pruned, the mature tree is proportionately and finely branched and has a good spread with a willowy, pendulous quality to its limbs. The tree progressively becomes gnarly, so it’s no wonder that it is a bonsai favourite. Quince trees also come in dwarf sizes that grow to no more than a metre. These patio trees are ideal for container growing. Standard-size trees, planted outdoors, are typically about 3m high, but can grow up to a height of 4m. Since quince trees are self-fertile, in theory you need only one tree for it to bear fruit.4 However, these trees will bear a bountiful crop only when they are cross-pollinated, so consider planting two or three. Apart from autumn fruit, quince trees also serve up other joys. In late spring and early summer, the delicate pink-tinged, cup-shaped blossoms decorate an already pretty tree, while the foliage is that just-right shade of rich, green that brings a soothing, cooling quality to the garden. Bare Root Vs Pot Grown Quince trees are divided into two kinds; proper free-standing trees and patio trees that are meant for container growing. The former typically reach an ultimate height and spread of 4-5m while the latter typically grow to only about 1m in height. Standard full-size trees of about 2 years in age are just as often sold in bare-root form as in pot-grown form, whereas patio trees are usually sold in pots. Though you can buy any of these variants, there are a few subtle dos-and-don’ts to bear in mind. Bare-root trees are available during the November-January timeframe and should be planted promptly, whereas potted quince trees of either size are available year-round and, though they may be transplanted during any season, the best period to transplant them is whilst they are dormant. Where To Plant Though quince trees, with a hardiness rating of H5, are hardy throughout the United Kingdom, the flowers are prone to frost damage. In addition to this, it’s important to note that the warmer the summers, the better the fruit. Therefore, they should be planted in full sun and in a sheltered location. Avoid positions facing directly to the east, where rapid frost thawing damages blossoms and young fruit. Full-size trees should be planted in the open ground while patio trees will thrive in large containers of about 60cm. These trees will do very well planted close to a pond or brook so long as the soil does not stay very damp in the winter. They should be planted during dormancy which is from December and January, perhaps February. Soil Requirements Quince trees grow well enough in most kinds of soil but in order for the tree to flourish and produce a rich yield year after year, grow it in optimal soil conditions. A fertile soil of a heavyish loam amended with an ample quantity of organic material such as humus, compost and/or well-rotted manure is ideal. The lighter and poorer the soil, the more generously it should be amended with this type of organic content. Though such a soil will retain moisture, it should drain well, especially in winter. This is why quinces grow well on sandy soils, and why heavy clays will not be suitable. The soil should be kept moist during the growing season. A soil pH that is slightly acidic to neutral will work best. Sunlight Along the southern coast of the United Kingdom and in the less cold regions, quince trees may be planted in an exposed location without concern for aspect. In other regions, they should be sited in a sheltered location protected from northerly winds. A south-west-facing corner is ideal. Spacing Quince trees from the smallest container trees to full-size standards have very different spreads. A good rule of thumb is to space a tree by twice its eventual spread, or two different varieties by the sum of their spreads. How To Plant Quince To get the best out of your quince tree throughout its long life, follow the planting steps below: Select a site that conforms with what is described in the preceding sections. Prepare a planting hole that is as deep as the container the young tree is in and twice or thrice as wide. Remove the tree from the container and immerse the root system in a pail of water for five to ten minutes. Ensure that the tree is not root-bound; the rootball should be loosened and the roots should spread out. Place the tree in the planting hole such that its soil line will be the same as it was in the container. The soil should not reach up to any part of the main stem that was not previously in the soil. If the tree is sitting deeper in the hole, fill it in a little before planting. Young quince trees need support. This is accomplished by way of one or two stakes at an angle in the ground. The stake(s) should be at about a 45° angle, propping up the main stem or nascent trunk, and avoiding the roots. Backfill the hole and pack the soil all round. Water freely. Add a layer of mulch of up to 8cm around and over the root system (though it must be 8-10cm away from the main stem). Ongoing Tree Care Quince trees need regular watering during the growing season. Whilst establishing, water freely and deeply once a week and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out during dry spells in summer. Soil in containers will not retain moisture as much as open ground, so pay particular care to water container-grown trees. Quince tree containers must have drainage holes. During winter dormancy, the soil should not remain very damp wherever it is grown. Feeding Quince trees in open ground may be fed in winters-end or early spring. Use a granular high-potash fertiliser and sprinkle it around the tree, about 8cm away from the trunk. Container-grown trees should be fertilised every month during the growing season. For these, use a liquid high-potash fertiliser at the appropriate dilution. Do not use a high-nitrogen fertiliser or a balanced fertiliser and avoid over-fertilising. Common Pests & Diseases Quince trees may sometimes be affected by powdery mildew and brown rot, which luckily can be controlled by the average gardener. Quince leaf blight and fireblight are two other diseases that can strike quince trees and these are much more problematic. Quince leaf blight is a very serious fungal disease but it can be treated with chemical fungicides. Any fruit from a tree so treated must not be eaten and should be destroyed. Fireblight is even more destructive. It is a bacterial infection that spreads all through the tree, and unfortunately only an experienced tree doctor has any chance of saving a tree affected by this deadly disease. Protecting From Frost Quince trees bear flowers in early spring and the flowers can succumb to frost. As such, if you live in a cold region where spring frost is predicted, it would be advisable to try to cover as many buds and flowers as possible with horticultural fleece in the evening. Complicating the chore, the fleece should be removed in the morning to allow both sunlight and pollinators to reach the flowers. Propagating Professional growers usually produce Quince trees for the market by grafting. They are also propagated from hardwood cuttings. Amateur gardeners can fairly easily propagate them by taking and rooting hardwood cuttings in late autumn and early winter, and from greenwood cuttings in the summer. Take a 15cm cutting of non-fruiting growth, remove all but 2-4 leaves, dip the base in rooting hormone, and insert the cutting into a pot filled with potting mix or a mix of light soil and organic compost. Place the pot in a sunny location and keep the soil damp. In dry conditions, cover the cutting with perforated plastic film, but be sure that it doesn’t stick to the cutting. How Long Does It Take For A Quince Tree To Bear Fruit? The ‘right’ answer is 4 years, and this holds good for the common quince tree. The real answer is that it depends on the rootstock and the cultivar, and can vary from 2-6 years. As a rule, I’ve found that this tree will start to produce high-quality fruit and high yields about 3 years after its first production of fruit. “The fragrance of the fruit is what really blows me away about quinces,” shares Peter. “Sadly, ours has become a biennial bearer, which can happen to some trees where, with age, they crop well only every other year. Steps can be taken to address this, such as thinning blossoms and fruits in heavy cropping years.” Harvesting & Storage Different varieties’ fruit is ready to harvest at different times in autumn from September to November. Common quince fruit is usually ready to be picked in October when it is a golden-yellow hue. No matter which variety, the longer the fruit is left on the tree, the richer and more well-developed the flavour. With this in mind, delay harvesting the fruit for as long as you can. Harvest the fruit when there is a chance of frost, especially for cultivars like ‘Aromatnaya’ and ‘Kuganskaya’. Store undamaged fruit in a dark and cool room on a flat surface without stacking and without the fruits touching. Though the fruit of the common quince can be stored for 8-12 weeks, I have found that they will be just right for preserves, confections, and other cooking in 6-8 weeks. Common Varieties “Whenever choosing a fruit tree, make sure to check the rootstock if you can,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “This is the plant which donates its roots to your chosen variety when the two are grafted together. “Quince A is a rootstock producing a larger tree, whilst Quince C and ‘Eline’ produce smaller trees. Quinces are also used as the rootstock for most pear trees.” Cydonia oblonga, otherwise known as the common quince, is the species tree. The species flowers in late spring and bears fruit in around October. The ripe fruit is of a golden-yellow colour and is lumpily pear-shaped. ‘Serbian Gold’ ‘Serbian Gold’ is one of my favourite cultivars which, while it is not known for its vigour, is renowned for its good cropping and relatively early fruiting and consequent harvesting which is in late September. The fruit is similar to the species but rounder, and it too is not meant for consuming raw. It grows to a mature height of up to 4m and has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. “‘Serbian Gold’ is my favourite variety of quince because it is resistant to the blight that some others are affected by,” shares Bunny. This cultivar is also available on semi-dwarfing rootstock; such a patio tree will attain a height of only 1.5m and is ideal for a container on the patio. ‘Vranja’ ‘Vranja’ is a popular variety in the United Kingdom. It is similar to the species but is a late-fruiting variety, cropping in November or even December. ‘Aromatnaya’ ‘Aromatnaya’ is an Eastern European cultivar and is less commonly grown here in the UK. It is a very prolific variety and bears its fruits earlier than other varieties. Unfortunately, this tree is more susceptible to fireblight than other varieties. ‘Kuganskaya’ Sometimes referred to as Russian Quince, this cultivar actually hails from Armenia rather than Russia, and is a rare find in the UK. It has average productivity and bears fruit in mid-autumn. Chaenomeles japonica This flowering quince is not a Quince tree, looks very different, and has somewhat different growing and care guidelines, but is mentioned here for completeness and because it is very commonly grown in the United Kingdom. Its fruit, though edible, cannot even compare with the Quince tree cultivars listed above. It is a spreading bush or hedge that grows to only about 1m, with a spread of about 1.5m. It is a striking sight in early spring as it bears copious bunches of bright vermilion or scarlet cup-shaped flowers. Pseudocydonia sinensis This plant is also not a traditional quince tree, looks very different, and also has somewhat different botanical characteristics but, like Chaenomeles japonica, is mentioned here for completeness. It is a bushy shrub whose true value lies in its beauty. It has highly textured, mottled bark and dark green leaves that have a glossy sheen which put on a colour show in the autumn before shedding. In spring it is covered in a bloom of fragrant reddish-pink cup-shaped flowers. References 1. Hill, A. (2019, October 1). 8 Emerging Health Benefits of Quince (And How to Eat It). Healthline. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/what-is-quince-fruit 2. Quince. (2020, August 11). BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/quince-glossary 3. Harris, S. (n.d.-a). Cydonia oblonga. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/CD/Cydonia 4. Pollination of apple trees and other fruit trees. (n.d.). Orange Pippin Fruit Trees (UK). Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.orangepippintrees.co.uk/articles/planting-and-growing/pollination-of-fruit-trees
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Using Comfrey Feed For Tomatoes: The DIY Fertiliser That Can Help Boost Your Yield
IN THIS GUIDE Making Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Using Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes When To Use Diluting Comfrey Solution References Comfrey is a plant commonly cultivated in organic gardens that provides many benefits, both while in active growth, and when harvested and used in various ways. One common way in which comfrey is used is for plant fertility. It can be very useful as a chop-and-drop material or mulch, for adding to a composting system, and for making a liquid plant feed, known as comfrey tea. Comfrey tea is commonly used to provide a boost of nutrients for crops in a garden. Since comfrey is a good dynamic accumulator of key plant nutrients, especially potassium, it can be especially useful for fruiting plants, like tomatoes.1 Using comfrey tea for tomatoes is a great way to improve your tomato harvest and will help to grow strong and healthy plants which deliver a high yield of fruits. The plants require potassium in particular during the reproductive stages of their lifecycle, while they are flowering and setting fruit. Making Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Comfrey can be grown in a range of settings, and is a hardy and resilient plant. Plant it once and it will grow year after year. Just make sure that you choose the right location for planting, as you won’t be able to get rid of it easily once it establishes itself in an area. Once you have some comfrey growing in your garden: Chop up the leaves, stems and flowers into small pieces. Pack these tightly into a container with a lid. Cover the material with water, place something on top to hold the leaves down, and put the lid on your container. Wait for the material to break down. After 4-6 weeks, you will have a stinky slurry that you can dilute and use when watering your tomato plants. Using Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Comfrey is particularly beneficial for tomatoes, as comfrey tea is very similar in nutrient profile to the commercial tomato fertilisers that you can buy. Luckily, you can make it yourself for free and it is a great organic choice. When To Use Usually, you can harvest comfrey and make your first batch of comfrey tea in June, around the same time that you plant out your tomato plants. You can use it to water the tomatoes as soon as it is ready, repeating every two weeks or so. You can also make a second batch towards the end of the summer, once the comfrey has regrown, and use it to give a further boost to the tomatoes during their peak fruiting season. Diluting Comfrey Solution The slurry mix of rotted down comfrey will need to be diluted before it can be used on your tomato plants. Add 1 part of this slurry mix to 10 parts water to make a comfrey tea. Then fill a watering can 1/3 full of this comfrey tea and 2/3 full of water, and pour this around the base of the tomato plant – trying to avoid wetting the foliage, flowers or fruit. This is a relatively weak solution but should be sufficient to give the tomato plants the boost they need to fruit well. If the plants are showing signs of nutrient deficiency you may wish to increase the proportion of comfrey tea you use. “When using for the first time, start with a very weak mix and check plants for any ill effects that may look like burning, as too strong a mix can do more harm than good” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Instructor and Consultant. “If all is well after testing a weak mix you can creep up to 1/3 comfrey tea to 2/3 water, just keep checking the plants for burning as it can happen that mixes come out too strong.” References 1. Role of Potassium in Tomato Production. (2018, May 23). Yara United States. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/tomato/role-of-potassium/
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Harvesting Tomato Plants: This Is How To Get As Many Ripe Fruits As Possible
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest How To Know When Tomatoes Are Ready The Harvesting Process Encouraging Green Tomatoes To Ripen What To Do With Unripe Fruits Storing & Preserving References Tomatoes are one of the most popular garden, greenhouse or polytunnel crops to grow in the UK and they can be a very satisfying crop to grow. “I think tomatoes are a really rewarding plant to grow because they are very fast-growing and productive, so you can become fairly self-sufficient on tomatoes, whereas that’s harder to do on certain crops,” shares Lucy Hutchings, Gardener Designer and Co-Director of She Grows Veg. However, due to the variation in British summers, it can sometimes feel as though growing tomatoes in the UK is a race against time, as we aim to harvest ripe fruits before the end of the growing season. Knowing when to harvest your tomatoes is important, but it can also be useful to think about the steps we take during the harvesting period to ensure we get as many ripe fruits from our tomato plants as possible. Read on to find out everything you need to know about harvesting tomatoes: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Collection vessel When To Harvest July – September When To Harvest When you will be able to start harvesting tomatoes will of course depend on the variety or varieties that you have chosen to grow. Some types will start to ripen far earlier than others, and others will take far longer to mature. Smaller, cherry-type tomatoes and early tomato types are among the fastest to ripen, while larger tomatoes, like beefsteak tomatoes, for example, will take a lot longer. It is worthwhile when choosing tomatoes, to familiarise yourself with the time-to-harvest for the particular cultivar that you have chosen, so you have some idea about when you can expect your fruits. Naturally, the harvest period for tomatoes also depends on when you sowed and planted your crop. To stand the best chance of a worthwhile harvest before the end of the growing season in the UK, it is a good idea to start seeds early, indoors. If you are growing in a greenhouse or polytunnel, rather than outdoors, this will also typically mean that you are able to begin harvesting tomatoes just a little bit earlier. This way you can start sowing as early as February. You may be able to start harvesting tomatoes from July and should usually be able to continue to do so until September, or perhaps even October if you are growing them undercover. How To Know When Tomatoes Are Ready Many tomatoes will be ready to harvest when they are fully red, but, of course, not all tomatoes turn red in hue when they are ripe. Tomatoes come in a range of different colours and not all will become red when they are ready. With some types, identifying the ripe fruit will not be as easy as looking for the bright red hue. You are looking also, for firm, plump and glossy fruits that are almost but perhaps not entirely mature. Fruits that are left to completely ripen on the vine will typically be the sweetest, but tomatoes will continue to ripen off the plant once they near the ripened stage. Picking them just a little before they reach peak maturity (and before they pass this peak) can help make sure you definitely don’t waste any fruit. The Harvesting Process The actual process of harvesting tomatoes could not be easier. Make sure that you check over your plants regularly to identify any fruits that are nearing full ripeness or that are fully mature. Whenever you see ripe fruits on the plants, simply pluck these from the plant, breaking them off through the stem just above the calyx at the top of the fruit. This is usually easy to do by hand, but if you wish you can use a pair of gardening scissors. “Harvesting tomatoes is a delicate affair, as heavy trusses laden with fruit are easy to accidentally snap,” says Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. So if, like me, you don’t have the hands of a surgeon, keep a pair of sharp garden scissors for the job. I find this is preferable to plucking fruit, to make it easier to keep the calyx and help them to be stored longer.” Place the fruits you harvest into a collection vessel, making sure to place them carefully so they do not get bruised. Make sure that you harvest ripe fruits as they appear so production will continue. Encouraging Green Tomatoes To Ripen As tomatoes (and many other fruits) ripen, they give off ethylene gas, and this helps other tomatoes to ripen.1 Placing any other ripening fruits, such as apples from an apple tree or pieces of banana, below tomatoes will encourage green tomatoes to ripen on the vine before the end of the season. To ripen green tomatoes you can also: Increase temperatures and concentrate ethylene gas by covering your crop with a cloche or row cover. Cut back lower foliage and cut off any flowers and small fruits that don’t have a chance of reaching maturity as the end of the growing season approaches (this encourages the plant to focus on ripening remaining fruits). Put plants under stress by reduced watering or by tugging gently to loosen the roots of the plant, as when they are stressed, tomato plants will be ‘shocked’ into rushing to ensure propagation. What To Do With Unripe Fruits Though you can potentially get a few more ripe tomatoes by taking the steps above, you will likely still be left with some green fruits at the end of the growing season. You don’t need to worry, however, because you can still harvest slightly under-ripe tomatoes and have these ripen indoors. You can also use green tomatoes to make green tomato salsa or use them in a number of other recipes.2 “I wouldn’t be without tomatoes (always a blight resistant variety) as they are essential for pasta sauces,” says Janice Shipp, a Garden Writer. If you have plants with quite a few green fruits nearing maturity but not quite there, you can also, at the end of the season, pull up the whole vine and bring it indoors for the fruits to ripen. Somewhere relatively warm with good light, but not strong direct sunlight, is ideal. Plants could be hung in a porch, for example. Placing the tomatoes off the vine in a warm, dark place with ripening fruits that give off ethylene gas will improve the chances that these remaining fruits will ripen successfully. Traditionally drawers or paper bags are used. Storing & Preserving The ripe tomatoes that you harvest throughout the season are best used as quickly as possible when their flavour will be at its best. “Sometimes, tomatoes will split when washed after picking, in which case, you should try to use them as soon as possible,” adds Peter. Of course, how precisely you use your tomatoes will depend on which varieties you are growing. “At this time of the year, we’re eating everything,” shares Gerald Stratford, the author of Big Veg. “My partner makes chutneys and jams with all of the fruit and vegetables, but if there’s a surplus, as there will soon be with tomatoes, we will store them.” “Over the last couple of years, we’ve started using a dehydrator. You slice the tomato, put it in the machine for around 12-14 hours and it dries them without taking away the taste. “We put these tomatoes in a small jar, top it up with olive oil and pop the lid on. We will then use these tomatoes to make the base of pizzas that we like to eat every week. It’s divine – there’s nothing like it.” If you have too many, you might also: Freeze tomatoes for later use Dry tomatoes (in a dehydrator or your oven) Try canning, with a water bath canner, to make tomato sauces “With tomatoes, you can shove them in the freezer without having to sauce them,” shares Lucy. “This means that you can grow enough tomatoes for a family of 4 to be self-sufficient for the whole year, which is exciting. “With most crops, that feels quite unachievable, but with tomatoes, it’s quite easy to do.” References 1. Sargent, S. (n.d.). Ripening Tomatoes With Ethylene. University of Florida. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://ufdcimages.uflib.ufl.edu/IR/00/00/46/98/00001/CV20600.PDF 2. Fennell, L. (n.d.). Green tomato salsa/smoked tomato ketchup. BBC Food. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/green_tomato_salsa_53906
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Crab Apple Trees Work In Most Gardens - Horticulturists Share Their Growing Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Crab Apple Varieties How To Grow & Care For Crab Apples Planting Pruning Common Problems References Crab apple trees are ideal for most gardens because they not only look great almost all year round with their spring blossom and autumnal foliage but they produce colourful fruit that can be used for delicious recipes. As a relatively small tree, crab apples are a great way of bringing some height and structure into a garden and are a haven for wildlife as well. Part of the Rosaceae family, crab apples are hardy and deciduous trees that are relatively small depending on their actual variety. Overview Botanical Name Malus Common Name(s) Crab Apple Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pink and white clusters When To Plant Winter When To Harvest Autumn When To Prune Winter They are not to be confused with our sadly uncommon and native wild crab apple, Malus sylvestris, which grows amongst hedgerows and wood. The majority of crab apples grown today are in fact derived from other species. Crab apple trees tend to produce small to medium size fruits, which are often yellow, orange or red in colour depending on the variety. The fruits can be rather unpalatable and tart when eaten raw, but they are perfect for making delicious jams, jellies and sauces.1 Most crab apple trees produce a wonderful, often scented blossom, with either pink or white flowers, which not only look stunning and signal the arrival of spring, but are loved by pollinators as well. Crab apple trees are self-fertile and are sometimes planted near other apple trees or in orchards, as crab apples can pollinate other apples depending on their pollination group. Long associated with love and fertility, crab apples are rich in symbolism and are sometimes known as ‘jewels of the countryside’, especially during winter when their fruits hang like gems amongst the bare branches.2 When used for burning they are often prized, as the wood gives off a sweet scent when burned. “Planting a young crab apple tree bare root in winter will be inexpensive and give you instant blossom the following spring and decorative fruits in the autumn,” shares Garden Designer Non Morris. Crab Apple Varieties There are many different crab apple tree varieties that grow well here in the UK and can be found in various forms from half standards and weeping varieties to columnar habits. With pale or dark blossoms, large or small fruits, for culinary purposes or purely ornamental, the choice is endless. However, here are some of the most widely available varieties here in the UK. Malus ‘John Downie’ ‘John Downie’ is a widely grown variety which will grow to an eventual 6m in height and 4m in spread over time. It produces beautiful white flowers in spring and large orange fruits, perfect for making preserves. Malus × atrosanguinea ‘Gorgeous’ This ‘Gorgeous’ variety produces a lovely white blossom in spring and a heavy crop of red fruits, which stay on the tree right into winter and give some lovely winter interest to the garden. Grows to an eventual height of 5m and spread about 4m wide. “One of my favourite varieties is ‘Gorgeous’, which has large, glossy, bright, red fruits which remain on the tree until Christmas,” says Non. Malus ‘Evereste’ This variety can grow to up to 6m tall and 5m wide over time. With its larger-than-average white flowers in spring, stunning fruit and more conical form, it is a great specimen to behold. Having been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) it has been shown to perform reliably well.3 Malus ‘Comtesse de Paris’ ‘Comtesse de Paris’ is a small tree growing to only 4m tall and 3m wide over time. It displays a stunning white blossom following pink-tinged buds in spring and yellow fruits into the autumn. Similar to Malus ‘Golden Hornet’, although with better disease resistance.4 Malus ‘Wisley Crab’ This variety is slightly different. With its purple blossom in spring, it produces large and dark red fruits into autumn, which are great for making jellies. When mature it can reach heights of up to 5m and a 4m spread. How To Grow & Care For Crab Apples Crab apples tend to grow best in loamy soils, but will grow well in any moist, well-drained and fertile soil. They are not a fussy tree to grow, but do dislike waterlogged ground, so it is best to grow them in free draining soil. Crab apples can be grown in either full sun or partial shade and will cope with either a sheltered or exposed site. However, they will certainly benefit with some shelter from the winds to protect the blossom and encourage pollination. Crab apple trees can be bought either as potted throughout the year or as bare root from November until March. Bare root trees should be planted quickly on arrival. However, if this is not possible due to the ground being frozen or covered in snow, the tree can be stored somewhere cool with its roots wrapped in polythene (if purchased as a bare root tree) to stop them from drying out. Planting To plant a crab apple tree, dig a square hole twice as wide as the root ball or roots and at least as deep, loosening the soil at the sides and bottom of the hole. Place a tree stake near to where the main stem will be and lower the tree into the hole to the same depth as it was previously planted. Backfill with soil, gently firming the soil in around the roots to avoid any air pockets. Water in well, attach the tree to the stake with a rubber tie and lay an organic mulch around the tree, which will help suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Water well for the first few years, especially during hot and dry spells, until established, as Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol shares: “A lack of watering is the most common reason for a tree to fail. “Either tree irrigation bags or tree irrigation kits, where a plastic tube down to the tree’s roots is installed when planting, can be used to ensure a plentiful supply of water for the growing tree.” Pruning Crab apples belong to pruning group one and require formative pruning to encourage a good open shape to allow light and air in. Most newly purchased trees will come with formative pruning instructions to follow, but guidance can be found online if required. Once established, crab apple trees are similar to other apple trees and require annual pruning to remove any dead, diseased and crossing branches. Common Problems Scab Crab apples are susceptible to a fungal disease called scab or Venturia inaequalis. Scab spores are airborne and can even survive the winter, harbouring in fallen leaves. Symptoms of scab often include brown scabby spots on the fruit, cracking on branches and twigs and green blotches on the foliage, which gradually become darker and often lead to the leaves falling prematurely. No chemical control is currently available for the home grower, so if scab is present swift action is recommended. Cracked or blistered wood and fallen, infected leaves and fruit need to be removed in order to reduce the amount of fungus around for the following growing season. Apple Canker Canker is another fungal disease, Neonectria ditissima, that can affect apples, pears and some other species. Apple canker affects the bark and wood of the tree, leading to the bark dying and eventual dead branches. “Although certain varieties are more susceptible to canker than others, canker normally enters the tree via a wound of some kind, so care should be taken to avoid damaging the bark of the tree, which is easily done when pruning,” shares Roy. Cankers tend to appear in spring with the bark dying and eventually falling off, leaving the dead wood of the inner tree exposed and leading to the wood above the canker dying. There is sadly no chemical control for canker. If canker is spotted, the advice is to cut off any affected smaller branches or twigs and cut the canker out of larger branches removing all diseased bark and wood. “It’s very important to sterilise tools after this as the fungal infection can be carried to the next tree being pruned,” adds Roy. The wounds can then be painted with a wound-healing paint that will hopefully prohibit any reinfection to the wound. Fireblight Fireblight was first discovered in the UK in the 1950s and is a bacterial disease that looks as though the leaves and twigs have been scorched, hence its name.5 Fireblight usually affects apple, pear and other ornamental trees in the Rosaceae family from spring through until autumn. Caused by the Erwinia amylovora bacteria, symptoms can include scorched-looking shoots, cankers appearing and flowers dying at the time when they should be in bloom. As with canker, there is no chemical control available. Instead, if fireblight is spotted it is recommended to act swiftly, as fireblight spreads rapidly and to cut off any infected material and some way back into healthy wood. Again, it is important to not compost any affected prunings and disinfect any tools used. References 1. Crab apple. (2022, May 30). BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/crab-apple-glossary 2. Crab Apple (Malus sylvestris). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/crab-apple/ 3. See RHS lists of top AGM garden-worthy plants, fruit & veg. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved May 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/trials-awards/award-of-garden-merit/agm-lists 4. Malus “Golden Hornet.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/98350/malus-golden-hornet/details 5. Erwinia amylovora (fireblight). (2022, January 7). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.21908
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Tomatoes Don't Always Need Pruning - But These Steps Can Really Help Improve Airflow
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Prune Tomatoes? Understanding Tomato Types When To Prune Tomatoes Pruning Side Shoots On Cordon Tomatoes Removing Lower Foliage For Air Flow Pruning To Encourage Tomatoes To Ripen References Tomatoes are not too challenging a crop to grow, but there are some things that are important to consider when growing them in order to achieve the best possible results. Pruning tomato plants is one thing to consider. You might not always have to prune tomato plants but there are a number of reasons why, for certain types at least, you might wish to do so. Here are some basic things you should consider when thinking about how to prune tomatoes growing in your garden: Do You Need To Prune Tomatoes? Tomatoes do not necessarily have to be pruned at all. However, there are a number of reasons why, for certain types of tomatoes and at certain times, pruning can be beneficial. Pruning can help make sure that plants have adequate airflow and are not overcrowded.1 It can ensure good quality fruits, keep your plants healthy and it may help you increase your yield of ripe fruits towards the end of the growing season. Whether or not you will prune your side shoots will depend on which type of tomato you are growing. Understanding Tomato Types There are two main types of tomatoes that you might grow and which of these categories your tomato falls into will determine whether or not you should remove side shoots from your plants. The first type of tomato is the indeterminate type, also known as vining, or cordon-type tomatoes. These are tomatoes that grow on long vines, and continue to grow and produce tomatoes over a longer period. The second type of tomato is the determinate type, also known as bush tomatoes. This type grows to a certain, smaller size and then produces its fruit over a shorter time period before tailing off in production. Whether or not you prune side shoots from the plant will depend on which of these two options you are growing. Cordon tomatoes should be pruned regularly, and side shoots should be removed whenever these form. Bush tomatoes, on the other hand, should not have the side shoots removed and should largely be left unpruned, except, perhaps, for the removal of some lower leaves. When To Prune Tomatoes When you will prune your tomatoes will depend on a range of factors, but these are the key times to think about pruning. During the growing period, side shoots should regularly be removed when these appear on cordon-type tomato plants. These may grow and be nipped out any time from around May/June when tomatoes are planted out until you approach the end of the growing season. From around late July and through August, blight is a serious fungal issue that can attack tomato plants. You can reduce the chances of this disease taking hold by pruning lower foliage from tomato plants around this time. In September, as the end of the season approaches, you might also consider pruning lower foliage and removing flowers and very immature fruits to give remaining green tomatoes the chance to ripen. Pruning Side Shoots On Cordon Tomatoes Side shoots or suckers appear where a leaf stem or branch meets the main stem. If allowed to do so these will grow into new fruit-bearing branches, but allowing these side shoots to grow can weaken the plant, cause overcrowding and airflow problems, and reduce the quality of fruits on cordon tomatoes. So whenever you see these small side shoots appear, you should nip these out with a finger and thumb before they grow too much larger. “Tomatoes are surprisingly easy to grow from cuttings,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Side shoots that are removed early in the season can be placed in a pot of free-draining peat-free compost under a propagator and usually root within a couple of weeks. “If not a propagator, a transparent plastic bag, with a few holes, will do the trick.” Your goal with this type of tomato is to keep them growing as a single stem up your supports. This will mean there is almost a right angle between the main stem and any fruiting stems or leaves. I like to check for side shoots whenever I walk past my tomatoes, to stay on top of this – since if you miss one, it can grow quickly and cause problems if it gets too large. Removing Lower Foliage For Air Flow Removing the lower foliage on cordon tomatoes, and sometimes on bush tomatoes too, can also be beneficial, especially as summer wears on and the blight season arrives. Cutting off the lower leaves or simply pulling these from the plant carefully by hand can ensure that there is adequate airflow around the plants which can reduce the chances of various diseases taking hold. Fungal spores can splash up onto lower leaves from the soil, spreading disease, so removing lower leaves can reduce this problem. Pruning To Encourage Tomatoes To Ripen Finally, you might also like to consider, on cordon types, removing lower leaves, flowers and immature fruits that definitely won’t have time to ripen before the end of the growing season in late summer or very early autumn. This can help ensure that the plant puts its energy into ripening remaining fruit, and could slightly increase the number of ripe tomatoes that you are able to harvest before colder weather arrives. While not strictly essential, this last pruning phase might slightly increase yields and give you fewer green tomatoes to use up or ripen indoors at the end of the gardening season. References 1. Tomatoes. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/vegetables/tomatoes/grow-your-own
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Don't Forget To Feed And Mulch Your Hungry Tomato Plants For A Bumper Yield
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Mulching When Planting Out 2) Mulching When Plant Begins To Set Fruit 3) Companion Planting 4) Feeding With An Organic Liquid Feed References Tomatoes are a popular crop for those who love to grow their own at home. They can grow outside in much of the UK in summer, but will often do best in a greenhouse or polytunnel. When growing tomatoes, there is a lot to think about to ensure a good yield, but one important consideration is feeding. Tomato plants are relatively ‘hungry’ plants, so you need to make sure that you provide optimal nutrition for these plants throughout the growing season. Feeding tomatoes comes down to three key ideas in an organic garden: Providing a healthy soil or growing medium through adding organic matter as mulch. For optimal yields, there are a few different mulches to consider. Companion planting to provide nutrients to growing tomato plants and to keep them as healthy as possible. And providing plants with a boost by using an organic liquid plant feed during the flowering and fruiting period. 1) Mulching When Planting Out In a healthy organic garden, everything comes back to the soil or growing medium. When planting out tomatoes in the soil, it is best to ensure that the location already has soil that is as healthy and fertile as possible. Ensuring a healthy soil in your garden beds and growing areas means thinking about protecting the fragile web of life that healthy soil contains. The no-dig method is beneficial because it allows the soil to flourish without too much disturbance.1 This approach involves minimising any digging or tilling, keeping a living root in your soil as much as possible, and regularly adding a top dressing to the surface of the soil to protect it. So – feeding tomatoes begins with building healthy soil, or choosing a fertile growing medium when growing in containers. Early in the season, when you plant out your tomato plants, they need a balanced mulch that can provide slow release fertility, as well as conserving soil moisture and reducing weed growth. I recommend adding a homemade compost or well-rotted manure around the plants upon planting. 2) Mulching When Plant Begins To Set Fruit When tomatoes flower and begin to form fruits, I also like to add an additional mulch around the plants (surrounding but not touching the stems). At this stage of their growth, tomato plants need plenty of potassium.2 You can add this with a mulch of the leaves of plants (like comfrey or Chenopodium album, for example) that are good at accumulating potassium in their tissues. These leaves will break down on the soil surface or growing medium and return their nutrients to your garden. Depending on the composition of your soil or growing medium, you might also like to add additional things to this mulch, to provide other nutrients and micro-nutrients. Calcium deficiency can cause blossom end rot in tomatoes, so to counter this, add calcium-rich plant matter to the mulch you prepare. 3) Companion Planting Another thing to think about for healthy tomato plants is other plants you might grow alongside tomatoes that might aid them – through improving environmental conditions, adding fertility, and helping with organic pest control. Planting legumes or other nitrogen-fixing plants close to tomatoes early in their growth can be beneficial. Some of the nitrogen fixed by these plants is used by the plants themselves, but some may be made available in the soil for the uptake of other plants close by. You might also simply plant tomatoes in an area recently vacated by a winter/spring legume crop, such as peas or broad beans, for example. While not strictly for adding fertility, but rather for ensuring healthy tomato plants in general, other companion planting is important too. For example, consider adding basil or borage, and garlic or spring onions around tomato plants. 4) Feeding With An Organic Liquid Feed During flowering and fruiting, especially when growing tomatoes in containers, it can also be helpful to ensure potassium levels by feeding tomatoes with a potassium-rich organic liquid feed, which will deliver nutrients more quickly than a mulch and give plants a boost. It is important not to feed with a liquid feed that is too high in nitrogen, as this can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers and fruit. Instead, choose a commercial organic tomato feed, which has been specially formulated. “I recommend formulations that include seaweed extract for the best results,” shares Horticulturist and Consultant Dan Ori. “You can also use tomato feed on most other flowering plants, so you won’t be wasting a bottle if you only have a few tomato plants.” Or, ideally, make your own organic potassium-rich liquid plant feed using comfrey or other dynamic accumulator plants that are good at gathering potassium from the soil. Steeping these plants in water will allow you to make a liquid feed to give your tomato plants a boost. You can feed tomatoes with a comfrey tea or similar every couple of weeks or so through the fruiting and harvesting period. References 1. What kind of plot? The no dig plot. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/allotments/allotment-styles/no-dig-alternatives 2. Qihou, H., Weijie, J., Hongjun, Y., & Ming, W. (n.d.). Effects of potash applied at different growth phases on tomato yield and quality in greenhouse. International Society for Horticultural Science. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.actahort.org/books/944/944_5.htm
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Growing Chillies In Containers? Make Sure To Re-Pot In Stages For A Thriving Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Chillies In Pots? Increase Container Size Over Time Compost For Tomatoes Works Well Potting Up Chillies How Many Chilli Plants Per Pot? Caring For Chilli Plants In Containers Pound for pound, there are few plants which pack as much punch or as much flavour as the humble chilli. Chillies are a delicious addition to all kinds of culinary dishes, from soups to pastas to stews to, well, chillies. Now that you’re aware of the myriad benefits that chillies bring to the table, it’s time to get growing your own. It’s well worth the small amount of time it’ll take to do so; cultivating your own is cheaper, more convenient and grants you access to a far greater variety than the simple red/green dichotomy on offer in most shops and supermarkets. Best of all, growing chillies in pots is supremely easy. Container growing means you can help yourself to a plentiful supply of tasty treats all year round, especially if you freeze or dry excess produce. This article will tell you everything you need to know about the process to make it as simple as possible. Can You Grow Chillies In Pots? The short answer here is a resounding yes! Growing chillies from seed in pots is child’s play – as long as you have the requisite heat and light to allow them to germinate properly. If your home is lacking the space or ambient conditions for you to confidently grow from seed, it’s advisable to simply buy a young chilli plant from a garden centre or online provider. This way, you can skip the slightly tricky germination stage altogether. Having said that, growing from seed shouldn’t pose too much of a problem if you are able to provide the three resources a chilli plant needs to thrive: warmth, light and water. You can take a shortcut to the first of these by using a temperature-regulated propagator, set at between 20-30°C. However, this is not strictly necessary and you can increase the temperature and humidity of your chilli plants by positioning them on a sunny windowsill and preparing the pot accordingly, as outlined below. Increase Container Size Over Time If planting from seed, it’s a good idea to use a seed tray or the smallest pot you can lay your hands on. This will help to regulate the temperature and moisture of the soil more effectively and give the chilli seeds the best chance of germinating. However, once the seedling has sprouted and begun to produce “true leaves” (by which we mean the second tier of foliage on the stem), it can be transplanted to a bigger pot. It’s advisable to re-pot in stages; rather than go from a tiny pot to a large one, increase its space incrementally. At the outset, you can increase the humidity levels of your chilli seedlings by placing a clear plastic bag or clingfilm over the pot and securing it in place with an elastic band. Once shoots begin to appear above the level of the soil, remove the plastic (or take the plants out of your propagator, if using one). It should also go without saying that good drainage is imperative to maintaining a healthy chilli plant. Make sure you select a pot with enough holes in the base and also make sure the soil mixture is right. More advice on that particular aspect is available below. Compost For Tomatoes Works Well It might sound counter-intuitive, but chilli seeds actually prefer soil which has poor nutrient levels at the outset. That’s because soil which has too many nutrients can hinder seedlings of a young age. Once the plant has become established and active, it will then require compost that is more suited to its development. This means using a soil product that has been specifically designed for chilli plants, or making up your own mix composed of enough nutrients and drainage additives. As a general rule, a compost composed of three-quarters tomato soil, 10% perlite, 10% vermiculite and 5% fine gravel or sand will serve your needs well. The nutrients contained in this initial mixture should meet the plant’s requirements for the first six weeks or so, but afterwards it’s advisable to fertilise it regularly. The exact type and frequency of feeding will vary between different types of chilli plants, so always check the label or the grower’s instructions to make sure you’re following the right path. Chilli-specific fertiliser, seaweed or diluted Epsom salts are all popular options. Potting Up Chillies When initially planting chilli seeds, you should fill your seed trays or small pots about half-full with potting soil. Sprinkle a few more seeds than you require to account for some failing to germinate, then layer over with more soil. Water the medium thoroughly at the outset. Chillies appreciate dry and wet cycles, so avoid the temptation to water your plant too often. Instead, let it dry out (though not fully) before irrigating. Take care not to overwater or you’ll drown your seeds before they’ve even had a chance to develop – again, good drainage is key. How Many Chilli Plants Per Pot? Once you are ready to transplant your seeds into pots, it’s advisable to give your plants plenty of room to stretch their legs. This means usually only placing one seedling into its own individual pot. One top tip for the transplanting process is that chilli seedlings can be planted at any depth, so feel free to submerge a decent portion of leggy and tall stems in the soil. This will help them to stay upright and prevent them from becoming overwhelmed by their own height. Caring For Chilli Plants In Containers Aside from ensuring that chilli plants have their basic needs of light, warmth, water and fertiliser met, there are a number of other measures you can take to ensure your plant performs as well as possible. Chief among these is your pinching, pruning and trimming habits. By removing excess foliage and harvesting chillies regularly, you can ensure that your plant devotes enough attention to regeneration, which results in more vigorous growth and a greater yield. “Picking chillies whilst still green will produce a milder taste and encourage the plant to keep fruiting,” shares Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “If you prefer a hotter taste then leave the chilli on the plant to change colour. “Check the heat of your chilli when you are choosing your seed or plant (measured on the Scoville scale – the higher, the hotter) to make sure you can eat what you grow!” You should also not be afraid to provide support to your chilli plant once it exceeds 30cm in height (or if it simply looks like it needs a helping hand). Staking and tying the plant will give it the encouragement it needs to reach its full potential. Once harvested, your chillies can be used as fresh ingredients, or else frozen in your freezer or dried out. Dried chillies can then be blitzed into very small flakes and used during or after cooking to season your dishes.
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Showing Emily Cupit's Chilli Harvesting Process From Her Greenhouse In Late Summer
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest How To Tell When Chillies Are Ready How To Harvest Storing Chillies Growing your own chilli peppers is a great option for those who like the heat. There are a huge range of different options to choose from, from fairly mild and sweet options to those that offer the ultimate kick, with many different levels of spice in between. In the UK, chillies can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel or, after being sown indoors, can be placed out in a warm, sunny and sheltered spot in a garden for the summer months. Here are the basic things you need to know about harvesting chillies: When To Harvest You should aim to harvest your chilli peppers between July and October. The earlier you sow your seeds indoors, the earlier your harvest will begin and the longer you will be able to harvest. If you are growing chillies in a greenhouse or polytunnel, you may be able to begin your harvest in July. Outdoors chilli plants will usually begin to be ready for harvest from August. How To Tell When Chillies Are Ready Deciding when chillies are ready to harvest is not as simple as just looking at the colour, or waiting until the fruits reach a certain size because there is so much variety between different cultivars. Many chillies start off green before maturing to more ‘hot colours’ like yellow, orange or red, but some start off purple before maturing or remain green even as they mature. Telling when chillies might be ready to harvest and deciding when to do so means that you need to be aware of how the fruits of the particular chilli that you have chosen mature, and what they look like as they do. When ready to pick, chillies will have a glossy shine to them. It’s important to remember that as chilli pepper fruits mature, they tend to become hotter and spicier over time. However, by leaving the fruits on the plant to mature further you won’t get new flowers and fruits forming. Deciding when to harvest chillies involves deciding whether it is more important to you to get milder chillies, and more of them over the growing season, or brighter and hotter chillies, but a harvest that might be reduced by around a quarter overall. Many will prefer to make the most of the growing area and increase their overall yield by picking the fruits relatively early (typically while they are still green but are nearing mature size for the cultivar in question). But if you crave the heat and want your chillies to be as fiery and punchy as possible, then you should leave the fruits to mature for as long as possible, waiting for them to change in colour. You might also wish to leave the fruits to mature if you would like to enjoy the ornamental appeal of the brightly coloured fruits – which can be particularly varied and vibrant with some cultivars. “Some chilli cultivars are sold as edimental (ornamental and edible), such as ‘Basket of Fire’ or ‘Spangles’, which have multi-coloured fruit,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. How To Harvest While deciding when precisely to harvest chilli peppers might not be all that easy, the actual process of harvesting chillies could not be simpler. When you are ready to harvest chillies, simply use a finger and thumb or a pair of secateurs or gardening scissors to cut through the stem just above the fruit, to release it from the plant. At the end of the growing season, you will remove all of the fruits to use, dry or preserve in other ways, but throughout the summer you can simply take the fruits when you wish to do so individually or in small numbers as they are required. Of course, you can use the chillies you have harvested in a range of recipes right away. Harvested chillies can also be stored whole in the fridge or in an airtight container for a week or so. Thicker-skinned chillies may last longer than thinner-skinned ones – a couple of weeks or even a little longer. Storing Chillies If you want to preserve chillies for later use, there are a range of ways to do so. You can: Freeze chillies (for up to a year in a suitable container). Dry chillies (using your oven, or in a dehydrator – sometimes by air drying, though this is challenging in the humid UK climate). Use chillies in a range of preserves such as chutneys, pickles, etc. and can them using the hot water bath canning process. By growing your own chillies and harvesting them successfully, you could be enjoying their spice in numerous ways throughout the rest of the year.
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