Growing
The Pros And Cons Of Roma 'Plum' Tomatoes - With Plant Care And Harvesting Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Roma Tomato Pros Roma Tomato Cons How To Grow Roma Tomatoes Roma Tomato Plant Care Harvesting References Roma tomatoes are a popular paste tomato variety. If you like to make tomato sauces and tomato paste then Roma tomatoes are a good option to consider. “I’ve grown Roma tomatoes for the first time this year and in a wet summer where the risk of blight and mildew is high, they have been unaffected – a testament to their disease resistance,” shares Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. Overview Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum ‘Roma’ Common Name(s) Roma Tomatoes, Plum Tomatoes Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Saw-like, jagged leaves with vines Flowers Yellow When To Sow Indoors January, February, March, April, May Plant Out June Fruiting Months June, July, August, September, October Roma tomatoes, in spite of the name, were not created in Rome, or even in Italy. They were actually first developed in the US, by the USDA Agricultural Research Service in 1955.1 The plant was created by breeding the ‘San Marzano’ heirloom tomato from Italy with a variety called ‘Pan American’. Since 1955, plant breeders have selectively bred Roma tomatoes to improve their resistance to a range of common diseases even further. Roma tomato plants produce oval, egg-shaped fruits, around 7-8cm long, which are red when they are fully ripe. They have a lower water content and fewer seeds than most tomato varieties – and are considered to be excellent for making sauces, pastes, soups and for canning. Roma Tomato Pros Open-pollinated variety (not a hybrid) so you can collect the seed. Resistance to fusarium and verticillium wilts. Fruits can mature in under three months. Since this is a semi-determinate variety, all mature at around the same time. Pruning and cordoning is not typically required. High yields of fruit can be produced on each plant in optimal conditions. Slightly green, nearly ripe fruits can continue to ripen after harvest. Great texture and flavour for sauces and pastes. Fruits hold up well when canning, bottling or preserving. Roma Tomato Cons This variety is easy to buy in supermarkets. You might like to consider choosing an heirloom variety instead – something which you could not get your hands on so easily. Though it is open-pollinated, this is not usually considered to be an heirloom tomato. Roma tomatoes, and many other plum tomato varieties, may not fruit as prolifically or perform as well in a cooler climate. Gardeners in the UK may be better opting for more cold-tolerant cooking tomato varieties. Some interesting options to consider for cooler regions of the UK which may perform better include: ‘Orange Banana’ ‘Purple Ukraine’ ‘Black Plum’ ‘Kibit’s Ukrainian’ ‘Amish Paste’ How To Grow Roma Tomatoes Roma tomatoes can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel across most of the UK, and outdoors in warmer and sheltered areas. Like other tomatoes, Roma tomatoes like a location which is as warm and sunny as possible. They need a moist yet free-draining, fertile soil or growing medium and can be grown in containers or in the ground. Roma tomatoes do not need an extensive cordon system, but will perform best when staked or caged to keep them supported and up off the ground. Sowing As with other tomatoes, it is best to sow Roma tomatoes as early as possible. Since we have a relatively short growing season here in the UK, it is best to sow seeds indoors in late winter or early spring. Indoors-grown plants are then potted up and hardened off before they are planted out into their final growing positions once the weather has reliably warmed – usually towards the end of May or in June. Planting Out When potting up or planting out your Roma tomatoes, bury each plant a little deeper in the soil or growing medium. This encourages new roots to form from the now-buried stem, which makes for healthier and bitter root systems which will be more resilient and produce better yields. On planting, mulch well around the plants with good-quality compost or well-rotted manure. You can also then add a mulch of comfrey leaves, or the leaves of other dynamic accumulator plants which are rich in potassium and other nutrients. Adding eggshells to your mulch can also help reduce issues with blossom end rot. Remember to think about including companion plants (like basil, garlic and marigolds, for example) around your Roma tomatoes to aid in pest control in your organic garden. Roma Tomato Plant Care Watering Make sure that you water consistently throughout the growing season. Water deeply and not little and often to encourage strong and healthy roots. Adjust watering depending on the temperatures and conditions and remember to water at the base of the plants. Try not to wet the foliage as this makes it more likely for diseases to take hold and may cause issues like sun-scald. Feeding Fertilising tomato plants is essential for the best results. But you most definitely do not have to use synthetic fertilisers, which can do more harm than good. As well as mulching around your Roma tomatoes, you should also feed with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed every couple of weeks once the flowers and then the fruits form. If your tomato plants are not setting fruit, read this guide for some solutions. Harvesting As mentioned above, Roma tomatoes are usually ready to harvest within three months. Roma tomatoes are ready to pick once the fruits reach around 7-8cm in length, and are bright red all over. If you are left with some tomatoes which are still slightly green at the end of the growing season, these should ripen up indoors, though tomatoes always taste best when ripened on the vine. There are a number of steps that you can take to encourage your green tomatoes to ripen more quickly: You should consider adding extra protection to raise temperatures. Reduce then stop watering towards the end of the season. Remove undeveloped flowers and fruits to focus the plants on ripening those fruits already nearing maturity. And place ripe fruits under the plants which release ethylene gas which ripens tomatoes more quickly. You can also give plants a ‘shock’ by tugging to disturb their roots. This spurs the plant to produce viable seeds as quickly as possible. Once you have harvested your Roma tomatoes, you can use them up right away in sauces, salsas, soups, ketchups, pastes and a range of other recipes. You can also preserve them for later use using a range of recipes for a water canner. Roma tomatoes might not be the most interesting or original tomato variety to grow in your garden, but there is good reason for their popularity in gardens and in a commercial setting. So provided you can offer the right temperatures and conditions for optimal growth, this could be a good tomato variety to consider. References 1. ARS in Your Pizza. (n.d.). U.S. Department of Agriculture: Agricultural Research Service. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://aglab.ars.usda.gov/explore-learn/ars-in-your-pizza/
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Cape Gooseberry: How To Grow This Physalis Fruit That Prefers Warm Conditions
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow These Fruit? How To Grow Cape Gooseberry Companion Plants Plant Care Harvesting Cape Gooseberry Plants in the Physalis genus offer edible fruits that could be interesting additions to your kitchen garden. In this article, we will focus on one of the two most common Physalis fruits – the Cape Gooseberry – and provide the details you need to grow them successfully here in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Physalis peruviana Common Name(s) Cape Gooseberry / Ground Cherry Plant Type Fruit Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow flowers from which fruit form When To Sow January, February, March, April Plant Out May, June Harvesting Months July, August, September, October There are many different fruiting plants within the Physalis genus which have edible fruits. However, two stand out as options for UK cultivation: the tomatillo and the Ground Cherry or Cape Gooseberry. Both of these plants are actually related to the tomato, peppers, aubergines and potatoes, since all are in the nightshade family, Solanaceae. They are also more closely related to Chinese Lanterns or Physalis Alkekengi. And like all these other edible nightshades, they can be excellent options for home growing. In this article, we will focus on the Physalis fruit of Physalis peruviana. This is commonly referred to as the Cape Gooseberry or Ground Cherry – though it tastes like neither gooseberries nor cherries. In fact, this fruit has an interesting flavour which is like a cross between tomatoes and pineapple, or sometimes strawberry. Physalis peruviana rather resembles tomato plants, but usually have stiffer and more upright stems. Depending on their location and cultivar, they can grow to between 0.4-3m in height. Though they are perennial in warmer climes, they are usually treated as annuals in temperate climate zones like here in the UK. Why Grow These Fruit? Cape gooseberries really are a great crop to consider growing alongside other warm, summer-season crops – they can crop really abundantly and they really do taste delicious. They work really well in fruit salads, or in other salads, and can also be baked into pies and used in a wide range of other recipes. For temperate climate gardeners who cannot really grow pineapples where they live, these could be the next best thing, as (in our experience at least) they do have quite a pronounced pineapple-like taste. “Like the tomatillo, Cape Gooseberry is a fantastic plant for the home grower,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They provide a taste you can’t find elsewhere and are great eaten on their own or in a salad. They are also perfect for where space is limited or in containers due to the large number of fruits they provide in a small space.” Physalis peruvianas are also attractive plants – the fruits are encased within little husks as they grow. These start off green and then turn whitish and papery over time – looking like little lanterns on the plant, with the bright bulb of the yellow/orange fruit shining through. If you are looking to branch out from the most common edible annual crops, then these plants could be a very good option to consider. How To Grow Cape Gooseberry If you can grow tomatoes where you live, then you can grow cape gooseberries too. They need very similar conditions. Like the tomato, they like warm weather and are not frost-hardy – they will do best where the temperatures are between around 12-20°C. In cooler temperate climates like ours here in the UK, it is often best to grow these plants under cover. You can grow them in the ground or in large pots. However, in milder gardens, you can grow these outdoors wherever tomato plants can be grown. Remember that P. peruviana will need a sheltered position, in full sun or light shade. Soil Requirements It will fruit best in a relatively fertile, loamy soil, though it can also tolerate a much less nutrient-rich soil. It is best not to grow these in too nitrogen-rich an environment, as this can encourage leafy growth and mean that the plant will not flower and fruit as well. In terms of the pH level of the soil or growing medium, these plants are not particularly fussy, and they can tolerate even more acidic or alkaline conditions. However, it is important to remember that these plants do require a moist soil, and will not thrive where conditions are especially dry. Sowing Physalis Seeds Physalis seeds are typically sown, like tomatoes, indoors before being transplanted into their final growing positions. Start sowing around 6-8 weeks before the last frost date where you live. Sow the seeds for cape gooseberries at around the same time that you sow your tomatoes, and you should not go too far wrong. Sow the seeds into seed trays or small pots, and prick them out into their own individual containers once they are large enough to deal with easily. One thing to remember when sowing these seeds is that the growing medium should only just cover the seed – germination can be fairly slow, so be patient as you wait for your seedlings to emerge. Plant Out You can plant out Physalis in your garden, or into a greenhouse or polytunnel as soon as all risk of frost has passed in your area. Be wary of planting out too soon, and remember to harden off seedlings which have been growing indoors. If you feel that you may have planted out too early, or there is a late cold snap, you can consider protecting your plants with a cloche until the weather warms up reliably. When planting out Cape Gooseberry, a rough rule of thumb for spacing is that your plants should be placed around 45-60cm apart. A container of around 50cm in width should accommodate one of these plants to maturity. Containers (or raised beds) for P. peruviana should be at least 20-25cm deep for proper root development. Companion Plants As a member of the Nightshade family, Physalis fruit can be grown in a crop rotation plan with tomatoes and peppers. Since these plants require similar growing conditions, they can work well in the same beds. However, remember that these plants are related and so share pests and diseases, so make sure that you also include other companion plants. Many of the plants that make good companions for tomatoes will also make good companions for Physalis fruit. For example, underplant your crops with basil, oregano and parsley and consider sowing garlic and marigolds nearby. Plant Care If you have experience growing tomatoes and other warm-season crops where you live, then caring for Physalis fruit should be a breeze. Generally speaking, these are a fairly low-maintenance annual crop for your garden. Unlike tomatoes, they do not typically require any support when growing in a suitably sheltered spot. Watering Of course watering needs will vary depending on the stage of growth, weather conditions and a range of other factors. However, as a general rule, make sure that your Physalis fruit gets at least 2.5-5cm of water per week. As with tomatoes, it is especially important to make sure that these plants get enough water during the flowering and fruiting stages. Mulching & Feeding Remember to mulch between plants for fertility and to reduce evaporation. Add a potassium-rich mulch rather than a nitrogen-rich one to encourage flower and fruit formation. When your P. peruviana are flowering and fruiting, it is also a good idea to provide an organic liquid feed. A comfrey tea, or any other potash-rich tomato feed will work well. Pinching Out While not strictly essential, you may find it beneficial to pinch off the growing tip of your plants while the shoots are less than 30cm tall in order to make them bushier and encourage more side shoots to form. Harvesting Cape Gooseberry As a general rule, you should expect to harvest your cape gooseberries from around 60-70 days after placing them into their final growing position. You may find it interesting to watch your plants flower (from June onwards) and develop into fruits if you have never grown these plants before. As mentioned above, the lantern-like calyx around each fruit will slowly turn from green to a light beige colour. As soon as the calyxes are dry and paper-like, and you can see the fruits showing through, it is time to harvest. You may find that some fruits drop off the plant before you get the chance to harvest – be sure to pick these up quickly so they do not break down. P. peruviana may well self-seed if grown in optimal conditions, though when implementing a crop rotation system in a kitchen garden, this may not be desirable. Collect the fruit and remove them from their lantern-like casings; these cannot be eaten. You can consider saving the dried calyxes and using them as decorations inside your home – they look really pretty on strings, or in dried flower arrangements. One final thing to note is that if you would like to grow cape gooseberries again the following year, you can save the seeds. Saving the seeds of Physalis fruit is the same as saving tomato seeds; if stored correctly, these can be retained to plant next year.
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Growing Medlar: An Unusual Choice As A Fruit Tree, But It Can Be A Rewarding Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Medlar? How To Grow Medlar Medlar Care Common Problems References It must be said that this plant is fairly unusual. It’s a tree that can also be grown as a shrub, and it bears an edible fruit, but here’s the thing: the vast majority of people in the UK won’t have tried – or even heard – of it! However, Mespilus germanica, more commonly known as medlar, is a rewarding and interesting plant to grow. We’ll hold off from saying the fruit is delicious because it’s something of an acquired taste, but it is a new and potentially intriguing flavour. Overview Botanical Name Mespilus germanica Common Name(s) Common Medlar, Dutch Medlar Plant Type Fruit Tree / Shrub Native Area Europe, Middle East Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous, long leaves Flowers White blossom in spring When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Harvesting Months November, December When To Prune February, March Medlar, or Mespilus germanica, is an ancient fruit that bears some resemblance to pomegranate, and tastes to some a little like quince. The fruits are brown or yellow, and usually measure between 2.5-5cm. Each fruit has a cluster of five ‘petals’ around its top, lending them a distinct aesthetic when compared to other common garden fruits. As we mentioned, medlar can grow as a tree or as a shrub. Trees of the original species Mespilus germanica will grow up to eight metres; grafted trees and shrubs will clock in a fair bit smaller. The tree is known for growing in a lopsided way, to the point that it can be pulled down by its own weight. Although it may not be relevant for the first few years, bear in mind that you may need to stake your tree to support it in its later years or carry out formative pruning as the tree grows to help prevent too much growth on one side. Why Grow Medlar? The fruits are edible, as we’ve said, but they have a fairly unusual taste. If you’ve ever tried quince it’s in that ballpark, but not quite the same. Other people say it evokes apple sauce flavours, but opinions on the exact nature of the taste (and its appeal!) vary wildly. The main reason we recommend medlar is novelty – it’s something you won’t find in supermarkets or even grocery stalls at markets. Most people won’t have tried it, making it a good conversation starter and point of interest in your garden. Given the differing opinions on the flavour, you may not be convinced to grow medlar based on the eating opportunities alone. And if that’s the case, you’re in luck because this is also an attractive ornamental plant that will provide something a little different for your outdoor space. How To Grow Medlar Sowing It’s possible and not too difficult to grow this plant from seed – sow in early spring and start in small pots. Ensure they have moist soil, and are kept in a dark, cool spot. Seeds will take around five weeks to germinate and should be hardened off before being planted out. “Bear in mind this will produce the original species tree Mespilus germanica which is likely to grow into a large tree up to 8m, so enough space needs to be allocated for it to grow,” adds Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. Planting Out You can buy medlar as a shrub if you’re not interested in growing it from seed. Plant this out any time between November and March, and use a stake to keep the fledgling tree supported for the first five years or so. Medlar can be grown in containers as well as in the ground – go for a big pot to give the plant ample space to grow. Again, plant out in November through March. Where To Grow Choose a spot with deep and fertile soil; drainage needs to be good; full sun is best for medlars but partial shade will work as well. It’s important to choose a spot that won’t be exposed to strong winds, as the leaves and floral bloom of medlar are both easily damaged. Medlar Care Fertilising Mulch the area at the base of the plant, and keep the soil fed well to ensure the plant is well nourished. Add a handful of high potassium fertiliser each spring, such as granular Sulphate of Potash, one handful for each metre of soil surface. Or, if growing on grass rather than just soil, use a handful and a half. Watering Medlar isn’t overly thirsty, except in dry spells. Be extra vigilant in the first four years of the plant’s life, making sure to keep it well watered during particularly dry patches in this period. Pruning To keep your medlar in prime condition you’ll need to remove weak and dead branches. Winter is the best time to prune, when the leaves have fallen. Depending on whether you’re growing as a tree or shrub, your priorities when pruning will be different. For a tree, your priority is establishing a balanced branch system to encourage efficient fruiting and to avoid problems later in the tree’s life. The method for pruning young fruit trees is actually quite involved (medlars are pruned in the same way as apple and pear trees) and because it won’t be relevant to everyone reading this piece we’ll link you to a great resource instead. If you’re growing a medlar tree and need advice on pruning it during the formative years, check out this great guide from the Royal Horticultural Society.1 Harvesting Bear in mind that it will take a few growing seasons to bear fruit: between three and five years. When your medlar is bearing fruit, October and November are the best times for harvest. You can leave fruit on the tree to ripen for a little longer, just watch out for frost as this will push them past their best. Pick your medlars when the fruit is rock hard, then let it ripen before eating. There’s a special name for this process which you may not have heard before: bletting. When bletting fruit, you’re letting it rot slightly before you eat it – this sounds a little grim but trust us – it’ll get you the best results!2 With medlar you eat the filling but not the seeds. Common Problems Medlar is prone to visitations from certain garden pests, but thankfully they’re not too difficult to keep in check. Here’s what you need to keep a lookout for: Winter Moth Caterpillars These creatures enjoy eating and generally damaging the leaves of your medlar, which can disrupt its ability to photosynthesize. Picking off the caterpillars should be enough to deter them, and keep a vigilant eye to make sure they don’t return. “If some damage is experienced from these caterpillars during a growing season, a grease band can be placed around the trunk in October until the spring to prevent the wingless female moths from travelling up the tree and laying eggs in the canopy,” says Roy. Birds Flying visitors are also prone to be attracted by the promise of fresh fruit. There are visual ways to deter birds: scarecrows and such. You can also use anti-bird gel, spikes, or ultrasonic repellers. Recordings of bird distress calls work well, too. You’ve got a few options and the most suitable will depend on your garden and your preferences. While it may take a little getting used to – and be forewarned the flavour isn’t for everyone – the potential rewards of growing this plant far outweigh the downsides. Even if you’re not a fan of the taste of medlar you’ve still got an attractive and distinctive plant growing in your garden. Whatever your reasons, we hope you enjoy growing medlar, and that you found this guide useful. References 1. Apple and pears: pruning newly planted trees. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/fruit/apples/pruning-new-trees 2. Gorvett, Z. (2021, March 25). The forgotten medieval fruit with a vulgar name. BBC Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20210325-the-strange-medieval-fruit-the-world-forgot
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Blueberry Shrubs: Nursery Owner Lorraine Summers Shares Her Tips For Tasty Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Them in Your Garden? How To Grow Blueberries Blueberry Plant Care References Blueberries are delicious fruits that can be grown in many gardens as long as you provide the acidic conditions they need to thrive. In this guide, we will take a closer look at these berries, why growing them could be a great idea and where and how to grow blueberries in your garden. We have collaborated with Lorraine Summers across our blueberry growing guides, the owner of Trehane Camellia and Blueberry Nursery, a specialist plant nursery based in Dorset. “Blueberry plants are easy to grow and they produce lovely, tasty berries,” Lorraine says when asked why she enjoys growing these tasty fruits. Blueberries grow on shrubs native to North America which are classified as Vaccinium (typically Vaccinium corymbosum or ‘highbush’ type).1 Overview Botanical Name Vaccinium Common Name(s) Blueberry Plant Type Fruit / Shrub Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Lobed, deciduous leaves Flowers Small white or pale-pink flowers When To Sow (Bare Root) January, February, March, November, December In Europe, related species, bilberries, are sometimes described as blueberries – and these also sit within the Vaccinium genus – usually Vaccinium myrtillus (often referred to as the ‘European Blueberry’).2 These are closely related to North American blueberries, but though they grow prolifically in the wild in acidic, nutrient-poor soils in temperate and subarctic regions, they are challenging to grow – and so are not usually grown commercially or cultivated in gardens. If you are thinking about growing blueberries in your garden – rather than foraging for bilberries in the wild – then you will be likely be looking for berry bushes which often come from hybrid cultivars, which were developed around the beginning of the 20th Century.3 The plants you can buy for your garden typically derive from these North American types. Why Grow Them in Your Garden? Though blueberries are not a native berry bush, they can still be a very useful and interesting addition to your home-growing repertoire. By growing these at home, you can take advantage of the useful properties of these berries without having to buy them. In the long term, this can save you money and reduce the amount of fruit you need to buy from the supermarket. How To Grow Blueberries Blueberries require a sunny location to fruit well. Though some can cope with dappled shade, most cultivars will require at least 6 hours of sunlight a day to achieve the best yields. They will also do best in a relatively sheltered spot, shielded from strong winds and colder temperatures. Maintaining Soil Acidity The most important thing to remember when it comes to growing blueberries relates to their soil requirements – blueberries are very fussy when it comes to soil pH. They are ericaceous and require an acidic pH of below 5.5 in order to avoid any issues.4 So unless you have acidic soil where you live, blueberries are best grown in containers or raised beds. If you have a heavy clay soil, you should also grow blueberries in a raised bed or container, since blueberries like light and moist (yet free-draining) soil. When To Plant Blueberries can be purchased as bare-root plants in the autumn and planted during the dormant period. You can also buy pot-grown blueberries from garden centres and nurseries all year round. For best results, these should generally be planted out or repotted in the spring or autumn. Avoid planting out during particularly hot and dry periods to reduce plant stress. Note that not all blueberries are self-fertile – even those varieties which are self-fertile will generally produce better yields if grown with at least one companion. You should usually, therefore, grow more than one blueberry plant, whether in pots or containers, raised beds, or in your acidic soil garden. Planting Out Once you have sourced your blueberries and chosen a site, prepared the soil if suitable, built raised beds or prepared containers with ericaceous compost – you should plant your blueberries at the same depth they were previously planted. Firm the soil or potting mix around your plants – take care not to create large air pockets but also make sure that you do not compact it too much. Water in well, then mulch around your blueberry bushes with a fresh mulch of pine needles, oak or beech leaf mould, conifer wood chip or bark chippings. Companion Plants Blueberries can of course be grown in pots on their own. However, you can achieve better yields if you companion plant blueberries with other acid-loving plants which can attract pollinators during the spring when the bushes are in blossom, and attract other beneficial insects which help keep pest numbers down. Some good choices are: Azaleas Camellias Spring flowering Irises Grape hyacinth (Muscari) Heathers (Erica) Lilac Lithodora diffusa Papaver cambricum (Welsh Poppy) Red campion (Silene dioica – can cope with a variety of soil pH conditions) Rhododendron Trillium erectum (Birthroot) Blueberries can also be grown alongside other berry bushes which like acidic conditions, like cranberries, for example. They also look good when planted alongside conifers, small Acers and/or holly. Note however that blueberries have shallow roots, so companions should be placed outside the area of their root zone – and should not have invasive roots. Around the sunny side of blueberries, you can also consider planting strawberries (which should be fine at a pH of around 5.5) and aromatic herbs like thyme and rosemary. These are good companion plants which should be able to tolerate acidic conditions. Blueberry Plant Care As long as you meet the acidic conditions required, blueberries are generally relatively easy and trouble-free to grow. Watering Remember that blueberries grown in containers will need to be watered more frequently than those grown in the ground. Tap water can reduce acidity, so be sure to always use rainwater when watering your blueberry plants. Protection Blueberries do not usually have a lot of pest issues. However, birds can be an issue, and may eat all the berries before you get the opportunity. If birds are a problem, you can consider protecting your blueberries with bird netting, or in fruit cages, polytunnels or other covering structures, as Colin Skelly, a Gardening Consultant and Horticulturist shares: “The birds in my garden seem to be adept and judging the ripeness of my blueberries, such that they will strip them before I get the chance to harvest them. “I have tried various bird-scaring ideas, such as CDs tied to a cane or fans that twirl in the wind, but the birds seem to scoff at these efforts. “The only viable option that I have found (not wanting to erect a permanent fruit cage) is to construct temporary netting around the bushes using canes.” Companion planting (ideally with plants which attract sap-suckers such as Nasturtium) should help you deal with aphids and other pests which can sometimes plague berry bushes. Companion plants should attract predatory insects to keep their numbers down. References 1. Vaccinium corymbosum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:261823-2 2. Bilberry. (n.d.-b). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/trees-and-shrubs/bilberry 3. History of Blueberries. (2021, August 4). US Highbush Blueberry Council. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://blueberry.org/about-blueberries/history-of-blueberries/ 4. Acidifying Soil for Blueberries and Ornamental Plants in the Yard and Garden. (2003, April). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/ec1560.pdf
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The Ultimate Aubergine Growing Guide: Secrets To A Bountiful Harvest
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Aubergine Varieties How To Grow Aubergines Where To Grow Aubergines Harvesting Common Problems References Aubergines are a delicious fruit – but are not widely grown here in the UK – which is a shame, as they are quite simple to grow, tasty to eat and can be cooked in all manner of ways. Often thought of and used as a vegetable, aubergines are actually a fruit (although botanically classified as a berry). Even though not especially difficult to grow, aubergines do have specific requirements in order to mature and produce a good-sized harvest, before autumn arrives. Overview Botanical Name Solanum melongena Common Name(s) Aubergine, Eggplant Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H1B-H1C Foliage Green lobed leaves which are coarse Flowers White to purple flowers When To Sow Indoors February, March, April Plant Out May, June Harvesting Months August, September, October Aubergines, or ‘Solanum melongena‘ as they are botanically named, are also widely known as ‘Eggplant’. From the Solanaceae, or ‘Nightshade’ family, this genera also includes the widely-known (and grown) tomatoes, peppers and potatoes.1 It is thought that aubergines originate from Southern China and South-East Asia – hence their need for a warm and sunny environment to grow best.2 Aubergines are grown throughout the world and are one of the most important commercially grown crops in Asia. Aubergines are often grown as a perennial plant in warmer climates, however here in the UK they are grown as an annual, with a long growing season and are most common as the oval purple fruit we all know it as. They are nonetheless, also available to buy from seed in all manner of different shapes and colours, from long or curly to white or striped fruits. Aubergine Varieties ‘Slim Jim’ Varieties available as seed in the UK include: ‘Bonica’ AGM with a deep black glossy fruit. ‘Garline’ AGM with smaller purple fruit and perfect for containers. ‘Clara’ AGM which produces heavy crops of white fruits. All these varieties have been given the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) meaning they are especially suited to growing in the UK’s climatic conditions. How To Grow Aubergines Aubergines grow best in a rich and fertile soil which is moisture retentive; they will need the longest growing season we can give them in the UK. Requiring warm and sunny conditions, they are happiest in a greenhouse or conservatory, although can be moved outside to a south-facing position in the height of the summer. Growing From Seed In order to give them time to grow and finally fruit at the end of the summer, aubergines are typically started off from seed as early as January. See our full guide to growing from seed here. Once the seedlings have produced their first set of true leaves, they can be carefully potted on. Potting On Make sure to hold them by their leaves and not the stem and pot on individually using peat-free multi-purpose compost. Unlike tomatoes, aubergines do not like to be planted deeply as they will rot. Grow on and repot as necessary until the weather allows them to be moved to their final position. However, aubergine plants must not be moved to an unheated greenhouse until all risk of frost has passed, usually in May or June depending on what part of the UK you are in. Planting Out If a greenhouse is not an option, then aubergines can be planted and grown directly into the ground, but only in the warmest parts of the country. If planting outside, make sure their final position is the sunniest and warmest you can provide, that any risk of frost has definitely passed and that the soil has warmed up – cloches can assist with this. As the plants grow, keep watering and when the plants are 30cm tall the tip of the main stem can be pinched out to promote a bushy habit. Once the first fruits start to appear, feed every fortnight with a high-potassium fertiliser, such as tomato feed. For most varieties allow 5-6 fruits to develop before removing any further flowers, unless you are growing a smaller fruiting variety which can be allowed to develop more. Staking and tying in may be required, especially for taller varieties and as the fruits develop. Where To Grow Aubergines Aubergines require a sunny, warm and ideally humid environment, which is why they do so well in a greenhouse here in the UK. Their final growing position can either be directly in the ground, in containers or even grow bags – but if outside, a south or west-facing spot is necessary. If planting outside and having already been hardened off, the plants can be spaced 60–90cm apart to allow room to grow and good air circulation. If growing in pots then a final pot size of 25–30cm will be sufficient, or if using grow bags, 3 plants per standard size bag is usually the maximum. Harvesting Aubergines take around 6 months from germination until the fruits are ready to harvest, usually from August onwards. They are ready to harvest once they have reached their final colour and are covered with a glossy skin. Harvest each fruit by cutting the stem as soon as they are ready – if left too long their taste decreases rapidly and may become bitter. Aubergines can be stored in the fridge for a few days, but taste so much better if eaten straight after picking. Common Problems Aphids ‘Greenfly’ or aphids can be particularly attracted to aubergine plants, leading to poor growth and harvests. They will often leave behind a sticky honeydew substance on the plant and will usually be accompanied by ants – they are typically large enough to be spotted with the naked eye. Control measures can include squishing by hand where numbers are small and encouraging predators such as ladybirds and hoverflies – but for more significant numbers, organic and insecticidal sprays can be considered. Red Spider Mite Red spider mites are most common in warm and dry conditions such as greenhouses and can prove difficult to control. Preying on a number of plants, including aubergines, they suck the sap – leading to mottling of the leaves, leaf drop and even eventual demise of the plant. The mites are not always red as their name would suggest, but green or yellow – and sometimes become red in the autumn. The mites are incredibly small and are not easily seen by the naked eye. On close inspection, they can most often be found on the underside of the leaves, along with their eggs. If possible, any plants infested with red spider mite should be removed from others nearby as quickly as possible and destroyed. The mites prefer a dry environment and so increasing humidity by misting or dampening down the greenhouse is a preventative action, but will sadly not control them once present. Once red spider mite is established controls can include biological and pesticide solutions, with biological approaches now being the preferred option. “Red spider mite can also be controlled by removing plants from the greenhouse, spraying thoroughly with a hose set to a fine spray to remove the bulk of mites and eggs, and after allowing to dry, spraying with an organic pesticide such as pyrethrum or plant oils for any remaining mites,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. Blossom End Rot Blossom end rot is caused by certain growing conditions that can affect aubergines – but more commonly tomatoes and peppers. Caused by a lack of calcium, dark patches appear at the end of the fruits varying in size from a small blotch to a rather worrying inch or more. Compost, grow bags and soil more often than not have more than enough calcium for plants to grow. However, it is the plant struggling to transport the calcium to the far ends of the fruit that leads to blossom end rot, most often caused by erratic or under watering and high temperatures. The best method of control in the case of blossom end rot is prevention, as sprays are ineffective. The soil should always be kept moist and not allowed to dry out, which may mean watering twice daily in a hot greenhouse during the height of summer. Feeding fortnightly may help prevent it, along with mulching the soil to help conserve moisture. Depending when it strikes, already-ripened fruit can still be eaten with the affected area cut out. However, if blossom end rot appears on unripe fruit the fruit is unlikely to ripen any further. References 1. Tracing the evolution of the aubergine. (n.d.). Natural History Museum. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.nhm.ac.uk/discover/news/2018/august/tracing-the-evolution-of-the-aubergine.html 2. Aubergine. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/aubergine
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All Gooseberry Bushes Require Proper Maintenance - Learn How In This Guide
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Gooseberries Soil Requirements Sunlight Transplanting Watering & Mulching Pruning Common Problems References Gooseberries are very flavourful and different varieties impart unique taste sensations. Some are lusciously sweet fresh off the bush; others are deliciously tangy and tart with savouries. Arguably the most versatile of all berries, perhaps the Gooseberry can one day regain its throne! One to two centuries ago, Gooseberries used to be among the choicest fruits enjoyed in Great Britain, enjoying the height of their popularity in the mid-1800s.1 The fruit suffered a decline in popularity from the early 1900s and fell out of favour after about 1920, as American gooseberry mildew became an increasing problem. In our time, gooseberries have been supplanted by more exotic fruits like passionfruit and kiwis in the garden. Perhaps this is partly because originally Gooseberry bushes were very thorny – and the species and heirloom cultivars still are – and all Gooseberry bushes require proper maintenance. Maybe this fruit’s flavour was also originally too tart and too tangy for modern palates. If this was so, the ‘problem’ has been circumvented by a number of newer cultivars that are honey-sweet. In any event, the fading away of the Gooseberry has been somewhat exaggerated if the RHS Fruit and Vegetable Show 2021 was anything to go by. Gooseberries are among the limited number of fruits and vegetables that have six discrete competition classes! Perhaps Gooseberries are making a comeback and part of the reason is that newer cultivars eliminate some of the difficulty with growing gooseberries in the backyard. Overview Botanical Name Ribes uva-crispa Common Name(s) Gooseberry Plant Type Fruit / Shrub Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H6-7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Inconspicuous When To Plant January, February, March, April, May, September, October, November, December Harvesting Months June, July, August When To Prune January, February, March, November, December Be the variety newer or older, another positive attribute is that gooseberry bushes are self-fertile so you are good to go with a single bush, though you will increase your yield if you have three or four bushes. This is not one of those bushes that you can plant and forget about; to the contrary, it requires care, particularly in pruning. Mark that store-bought gooseberries of any variety cannot be compared to home-grown ones because this is a fruit that doesn’t transport well or ‘keep’ well when it is ripe as it tends to burst. Therefore, stores often stock and sell underripe gooseberries which will not ripen into sweet fruit after they have been plucked. This fact is surely the best reason to grow a Gooseberry bush (or a few) in your back garden. Habitat & Growing Conditions Gooseberry species grow wild throughout Eurasia where they are found in many kinds of soil and environmental conditions.2 In the United Kingdom they are often seen in woodlands and scrublands, and also along country byways. Again, where the United Kingdom is concerned, they are found more frequently on moist ground, either in full sun or a sun-shade mix. Other species, native to South Asia and North America, grow in even dryish areas.3 Different species grow in climate conditions ranging from sunny and semi-tropical through temperate to frigid. How To Grow Gooseberries You can grow a gooseberry plant from seed but while species will grow true, cultivars will likely not. Also, growing gooseberry shrubs from seeds is a lengthy process. Bare-root plants are most widely available during winter months; potted plants are another form in which Gooseberry plants can be bought. Get them from an established merchant with a good reputation because Gooseberry shrubs are among those that can harbour pests or diseases. The major cultivars are fully hardy at H6. Soil Requirements Gooseberry cultivars should be planted in soil with good drainage. The soil should contain peat or other organic content such as well-rotted manure or humus, especially if soil is a heavier clay or has a very free-draining sandy texture. The ideal soil pH is Slightly Acidic, 6.1 to 6.5, but this can safely be stretched to 5.6 to 7.3 – Moderately Acidic to Neutral. Sunlight In almost the whole of the United Kingdom the best site is in full sun but part shade will do. Bear in mind that the more sun the bush gets, the sweeter the berries. Therefore, if you are growing a sweet dessert variety it really should be sited in full sun; on the other hand, if you are growing a tart culinary variety then site it in part shade. The best location is one that is sheltered but has good airflow but this combination may not be at all easily sorted-out; if not, don’t sweat it. If need be, you can support your bush with a trellis or bamboo canes. Transplanting You can (trans)plant bare-root or potted plants any time during winter or early spring. The transplanting hole should not only accommodate the entire root ball, it should be considerably wider than the root ball so that the roots can be spread out. Before transplanting a potted plant, water it well. Dampen the roots of a bare-root plant before putting it in the ground, then water well after transplanting. Space Gooseberry bushes approximately 1.5 metres apart. Watering & Mulching Gooseberry bushes thrive on lots of water. Water from soil level only. Absolutely do not water them on the crown or over the foliage so as not to give any opening to diseases. The plant should get water about twice a week during the growing season if the weather is dry. Keep the soil moist. As fruit starts to form and develop, gradually and proportionally increase the amount of water and perhaps the frequency of watering; however, be careful not to overwater. A soil moisture meter would be very useful during Gooseberry bushes’ fruit-forming period, as the surface of the soil can have a very different moisture level compared to further down. Mulching a Gooseberry bush in general is a good idea and in hot and dry climates it is essential to do this when the soil is still damp, to seal moisture in. Pruning “Pruning gooseberries is a satisfying task during winter or early spring,” says RHS Master of Horticulture Peter Lickorish, “providing you have thick gloves to prevent thorns from becoming a nuisance. “Airflow is the aim – so cut out branches which rub on another or crowd the centre. “It is usually best to leave an open goblet-shaped framework of branches. “Any narrow side-shoots from these can be cut back to a few buds, which lets light reach the fruits when they form…and helps stop you getting scratched!” Common Problems First, bear in mind that Gooseberry cultivars manifest rather pronounced differences as to the pests and diseases that they resist well and those that they succumb to. Problems include powdery mildew and leaf spot. The former is more common but is not very hard to resolve and can be remedied by pruning for airflow or selecting resistant cultivars. The latter, a fungal disease, is not so common but very difficult to bring under control. You can help prevent both of these by reducing plant stress – so keep the soil well watered. Insect Infestations Gooseberry bushes can be attacked by aphids, sawfly, and capsid bug. Aphids often cluster on the tips of stems, so the very tips of long stems can be cut off. Sawflies can strip leaves to shreds, though many garden birds will eat their larvae. You cannot use chemical pesticides on a fruit-bearing bush so you will need to choose organic formulations and natural solutions. Among the former are Organic Savona soap, Neudorff Bug Free, and Vitax Plant Guard. You could prepare a solution of generic pyrethrin and neem oil – also consider beneficial insects like ladybugs. You can minimise the chances that the bush will succumb to pests and diseases by siting it optimally, pruning it correctly, and watering it at soil level. Birds There is one other creature in your garden which loves gooseberries: birds. You can try to draw them away by setting up a bird feeder with different types of grain and mealworms that birds may be more attracted to. As a last resort, protect your bushes with bird netting. References 1. Fascinating facts: gooseberries (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/fascinating-facts-gooseberries 2. Fascinating facts: gooseberries. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/fascinating-facts-gooseberries 3. Gooseberry. (2023, March). Agricultural Marketing Resource Center. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.agmrc.org/commodities-products/fruits/gooseberry
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Harvesting Gooseberries: How To Know When They're Ripe And Ready To Pick
IN THIS GUIDE Deciding When To Harvest Gooseberries Harvesting Under-Ripe Gooseberries Using Underripe Gooseberries Recognising Fully Ripe Fruits Using Fully Ripe Gooseberries Tips For Harvesting Successional Sowing Gooseberries are a great fruit to grow in your garden – but how do you know when they are ready to pick? The good news is that there are no hard and fast rules about when you pick your gooseberries. Though it can be challenging to determine the optimal time to harvest for entirely ripe fruits, underripe gooseberries can also be very useful – and can be harvested and used in a range of different ways. In the UK, gooseberries will generally appear on your gooseberry bushes around June, and will ripen fully either later that month or in July or August – depending on the climate and conditions where you live, as well as the weather in a particular year. Gooseberries will vary in appearance and size depending on which type of gooseberry you are growing, and even the individual cultivar. The exact time at which they can be harvested or will ripen fully depends on a range of factors relating to exactly where they are grown. Deciding When To Harvest Gooseberries If you have purchased a new gooseberry bush, you should usually forgo harvesting for the first year after purchase to allow the new plant to become established. It can be a good idea to rub off any flowers that form to allow the new gooseberry bush to focus on root formation. In the second year, you will likely get a small harvest, after which you should gain a higher yield each year, until maturity. As soon as your gooseberry bushes are established, the truth of the matter is that you can start to harvest your gooseberries pretty much as soon as they begin to grow and swell on the bushes. Fully ripe gooseberries will be far less tart and sweeter than those that are under-ripe. But there are a range of reasons why you might wish to harvest under-ripe gooseberries – they have a range of uses. I tend to leave the green gooseberries on the bushes in my forest garden to mature to a reasonable size. But I harvest many of them before they reach peak maturity, in late June or early July. Personally, I find that the slightly under-ripe berries are actually more useful for more things than the fully ripe gooseberries. What is more, removing many of the berries from your bushes while they are under-ripe allows the remaining gooseberries to ripen more successfully. This year, I harvested around 10kg of underripe gooseberries, and around 4.5kg of ripe gooseberries from my forest garden (with a few still maturing). So I picked around 2/3 of the crop before they were fully mature. Harvesting Under-Ripe Gooseberries Remember, not all the fruits on your gooseberry bushes will mature at the same time, so waiting for full maturity and harvesting once is not a good policy. With some gooseberries (red or yellow varieties), underripe fruits will not yet have changed to their ripe colour. With my green gooseberries, however, there is no colour change – the fruits remain green no matter how long they are left to mature. I usually harvest under-ripe fruits when the fruits have swelled, but before they are fully mature. They are not yet quite full size, but nearly. And yet are still quite hard and have not yet become softer and juicy. The flowers at the ends of the berries are brown, but not yet fully dried. Using Underripe Gooseberries I find it particularly useful to harvest the under-ripe gooseberries because these under-ripe berries are great for: Juicing and using as a tart lemon juice substitute in a range of recipes. Making tart sauces, salsas and condiments to accompany a range of dishes. Tossed into salads for tart flavour. Used in baking and desserts (much as you might use rhubarb). Using in jams, jellies and other preserves – the under-ripe berries have higher levels of pectin, which helps jams and other preserves to set. Since we do not use up all our gooseberries right away, I find it helpful to harvest plenty of under-ripe gooseberries because they are so useful for use in recipes that can preserve the harvest for use much later in the year. I have a number of jars of gooseberry and mixed berry jams and jellies, gooseberry chutney, gooseberry relish etc. in my pantry. Oddly, green gooseberries will make a green jam when boiled briefly, but can turn into an orangish, brownish or even a reddish jam when processed for longer. Recognising Fully Ripe Fruits Hinnonmaki Red Gooseberries Some clues that gooseberries are fully ripe include: A colour change to the mature colour (for some varieties). The berries have reached their full size (for the variety in question). Skins may become translucent with some varieties. The flower on the end of each fruit is brown and fully dried. The texture has changed, and the berries are not hard and solid but plump, softer, and juicy. However, taste is the best indicator for all varieties. When fully ripe, the fruits will be far sweeter, with much less tartness and acidity. They should not be unappetising when you eat one raw, while the under-ripe berries are generally not appetising to most palettes. It is best, when the berries begin to soften and feel juicier, to taste your gooseberries to determine whether they have reached optimum sweetness. Berries which are over-ripe can shrivel and will fall off the bush and onto the ground. Using Fully Ripe Gooseberries Fully ripe gooseberries will usually still have to be sweetened in some way to use in desserts and sweet recipes. However, they will need far less sweetening than under-ripe fruits. They can also be delicious with fish or in a range of other savoury recipes. They are an incredibly versatile fruit that you can use, when fully ripe, in another huge range of different ways. They can be used anywhere that you might use other relatively tart summer berries, and alongside them. One of my favourite recipes for fully ripe gooseberries is gooseberry sorbet. I sometimes make this with elderflowers, sometimes with other fruits or herbs from my garden. It can be child-friendly, or made with alcohol and slightly less sweet for an adult treat. Tips For Harvesting Most gooseberry bushes have thorns. These can really be vicious and make harvesting quite a challenge. Thornless options are sometimes available, but these unfortunately tend to have much lower yields. Make sure that you wear gloves and long sleeves to avoid scratches. Carefully pluck the berries from the bush when you decide that it is time to harvest. Take care, especially when harvesting ripe fruits, as these have thin skins which can split easily. To make harvesting a little easier, it is a good idea to prune your bushes into an open goblet shape. Gooseberries can also be cordoned, with one central leader, which can make things easier still. Cordoning can also be a good solution for small spaces. The yield from cordons will be lower, of course, but more bushes can be grown in the space. So, remember – taste is the best way to determine when gooseberries are fully ripe. But harvesting can begin well before this time, and there are plenty of ways to make use of under-ripe gooseberries, as well as the fully mature fruits. Successional Sowing “Consider planting for a succession of harvesting,” says Horticulturist Peter Lickorish, “from ‘Rokula’ as an early cultivar to later ones such as ‘Howard’s Lancer.’ “Though I have a sweet tooth and a preference for dessert cultivars, I find that culinary varieties or under-ripe gooseberries add a crisp tartness to yoghurts. “Growing in a sunnier position, but ensuring good soil moisture, can improve ripening – as well as taking time in early summer to prune thin wispy growth on stems which blocks light reaching the fruit. “Adding a high-potassium fertiliser to the soil in spring can improve yields too.”
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Here's How To Get Delicious Tomatoes From Seed In Just 7 Straight-Forward Steps
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choosing Tomato Seeds 2) Planning When To Sow 3) Germinating Your Seeds 4) Caring For Young Seedlings 5) Potting Up 6) Hardening Off Seedlings 7) Planting Out Growing tomatoes from seed is not too difficult a challenge, though there are certain considerations to bear in mind. “My favourite plant to grow from seed is probably tomatoes, as they are so easy to grow and so tasty,” shares Floral Artist Lora Avedian. In this article, we will talk you through the process of growing tomatoes from seed – from choosing your tomato seeds, to planting your tomato plants into their final growing positions. 1) Choosing Tomato Seeds First things first, if you want to grow tomatoes from seed, you will need to decide which tomatoes you would like to grow. The life cycle of a tomato plant You will need to choose a variety or varieties, and you will need to source your seeds. Remember, there are plenty of amazing heritage or heirloom tomato varieties to consider. And if you choose a heritage variety, you will potentially be able to save the seeds from your own tomato plants to sow next year. You can also sow the seeds from heritage tomato varieties that you have bought from a farm shop or farmers market. To prepare the seeds from a tomato fruit to plant, you will need to place the seeds into a jar of water. Mould will form on the seeds, which will remove the jelly-like coating from the seeds which stops them from germinating. Once this mould forms, after a few days, remove the seeds from the jar and wash them thoroughly. Then let them dry out and store them until you are ready to plant. Think about whether you would like to grow determinate or indeterminate types, and consider the growth habits of different options. Consider the length of time to harvest for particular varieties and the characteristics of their fruit and what they can be used for. Consider also how you would like to use the tomatoes you grow before you make your choices. 2) Planning When To Sow Plant your seeds early in the year Typically, a rule of thumb dictates that tomatoes should be sown indoors approximately 6-8 weeks before the last frost date where you live. Early sowing can be a good idea for short-season gardeners because when you sow early, you have the best chance of obtaining a good harvest of ripe tomatoes before the end of the year. For most of the UK, this is some time in February – however, you can also get started in March or April. If you are going to grow on your tomatoes in a polytunnel or greenhouse, you can get started even earlier, perhaps even in January in some areas, though February is generally best. If planting outdoors, March sowing indoors is usually recommended to obtain good yields by the end of the season. Tomatoes can be sown into seed trays, plugs, soil blocks or small pots…even toilet roll tubes. Remember that you can use a range of reclaimed materials and do not need to buy plastic pots for seed sowing. 3) Germinating Your Seeds To germinate successfully, tomato seeds need: The right temperatures (between 16-30°C). Sufficient moisture. Oxygen (an aerated growing medium). Getting the best germination rates possible is important. With tomatoes, germination rates can often be good, as long as the seeds are viable and the above environmental conditions have been met. Choosing the right growing medium is important to balance water and oxygen needs. Choose or make a suitable, light and moist yet free-draining seed starting potting mix for best results. “I use sieved, peat-free, multipurpose compost when sowing tomato seeds as they germinate easily and are not inhibited by high amounts of nitrogen in multipurpose, so there’s no need for special seed composts that have lower nitrogen levels,” explains Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. With earlier indoors sowing, meeting the needs of your plants can be more of a challenge. The main challenges are providing the right temperatures for successful germination, and the low light levels early in the year. You may wish to use a heated propagator if you find it a challenge to provide the right temperatures in your home. If you do not have a propagator, using a seed tray with a plastic tray or pots with plastic bags placed over the top can help. Place your seed trays or pots in as bright and light a place as possible – a south-facing windowsill is ideal. 4) Caring For Young Seedlings Young tomato seedlings should be kept moist, and at around 18°C. If you are starting early, LED grow lights can help you make sure that once seedlings emerge, they do not become weak and leggy due to a lack of light. Turning your pots or trays regularly, and perhaps using foil or mirrors to reflect light back onto your seedlings, can help to prevent them from leaning over towards the light. 5) Potting Up Once your tomato seedlings have developed two true leaves, these should be pricked out and potted up into pots that are at least 9cm across. When potting up, bury each seedling a little deeper than it was in its previous setting. This means that a length of the stem that was above the growing medium will now be beneath it. New roots should emerge from this newly buried length of stem, so the plant will develop a stronger and healthier root system which will get it off to a good start. Avoid any moisture or temperature shocks that could check the growth of your young plants. If roots begin to emerge from the base of the pots, and it is not yet time to plant the tomatoes into their final growing position, consider potting them up again into larger containers, since plants may flower prematurely or experience checks to their growth if they are too confined. 6) Hardening Off Seedlings A cold frame can help your plants acclimatise to the outdoors Around 2-3 weeks before it is time to plant your tomatoes into their final growing positions, (typically in around April or May) you need to harden them off. Hardening off tomato seedlings means gradually acclimatising them to outdoor growing conditions. If you have a greenhouse, place the tomato plants into this ‘halfway house’ for a couple of weeks, then move them into a cold frame, which can be gradually opened up more over the next week or so. If you do not have a greenhouse, move the plants into a cold frame or a sheltered spot for short periods of time, gradually increasing the length of time and amount of outdoors exposure. 7) Planting Out Raised beds can work well when planting out It is important not to plant out your tomato plants too early. Of course, you can plant out tomatoes earlier in a polytunnel or greenhouse than you can outdoors, but it is important to make sure that your young tomato plants are not exposed to frost or chilly conditions. This can cause a check in their growth, or even cause frost damage or kill your plants in extreme cases. Be sure to check the weather conditions and remember that garden timings can vary significantly from year to year. You can grow tomatoes in a range of settings – outdoors, in a typical vegetable plot or raised beds, in a greenhouse or polytunnel bed, or in a huge variety of containers or grow bags. When positioning your plants, be sure to think about the type or types of tomato you are growing, the conditions they require, and whether they need any support. It is best to get your supports in place (if required) before planting. When planting out your tomatoes, as with potting up, bury the plants a little deeper in the soil or growing medium to encourage strong root system formation.
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Container Grown Strawberries: Perfect For A Patio, Balcony, Or Sunny Windowsill
IN THIS GUIDE Why Grow Strawberries In Pots? Pot-Grown Varieties Choosing A Strawberry Container Filling Containers Sowing / Planting Strawberries Potted Strawberry Plant Care References Growing strawberries in pots can be a great choice for small space gardens. Strawberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow, and you can grow them in even the tiniest of spaces. You can grow them in small containers in your garden, on a patio, or balcony, or even on a sunny windowsill indoors. If you are new to growing your own, then growing strawberries in pots is one great way to get started. Why Grow Strawberries In Pots? Strawberries can be grown in a variety of different ways. You can place them in their own dedicated beds or strawberry patches. They can also work very well in polycultures alongside other perennial edibles such as perennial onions, perennial herbs, asparagus or rhubarb, given sufficient space. You can grow them as bed edging along pathways, around the edges of your beds, or at the front of garden borders. Strawberries can also be useful additions to fruit tree guilds and forest gardens, especially if woodland strawberries, Fragaria vesca, are chosen for their shade tolerance. . Growing strawberries in pots or containers of different types, however, can be an excellent way to make the most of your space. Whether you have only a tiny amount of space, or are trying to make the most of every inch in a larger space, this can be a good solution. When you grow strawberries in pots or other containers, this can also make it easier to keep your strawberries up off the ground. It can help make sure they are not nibbled by something else before you can harvest them, while making the harvest easier for you too, since the strawberries can be positioned within easy reach. Pot-Grown Varieties Once you have decided to grow strawberries in containers, you will of course have to decide which strawberries you would like to grow. There are several different types of strawberry ideal for pots: Garden Strawberries Fragaria x ananassa is the main strawberry type grown in gardens and in commercial cultivation. There are many named varieties to choose from. They all originate from hybrid crosses between the wild strawberry or Virginia strawberry – F. virginiana and F. chiloensis, which were developed in the 18th Century.1 These strawberries require a bright and light location, and will always fruit best in full sun. Woodland / Wild / Alpine In addition to typical garden strawberries, you can also consider Fragaria vesca (woodland or ‘wild’ strawberries). “Woodland strawberries are a little plant gem that can be used at the front of the border and produce small, edible fruits,” shares Anca Panait, a Garden Designer. “It comes as a surprise to a lot of clients that this plant is low maintenance and it also spreads, creating a green carpet.” These were the first strawberries to be cultivated around the 14th century.2 F. vesca ‘Semperflorens’ is one type of wild strawberry, sometimes called the alpine strawberry. It has small fruits but they are said to be even more delicious and sweeter than the garden types. Fragaria vesca One of the great things about woodland/wild/alpine strawberries is that they can be grown in more shaded conditions. They will fruit well even in light or dappled shade. June-Bearing, Ever-Bearing Or Day-Neutral When choosing strawberry varieties, you should note that there are several different categories to consider. Varieties are categorised according to their cropping characteristics. There are early, mid-season and later harvested varieties – and also ever-bearing and day-neutral options. The first three types are by far the most common. These will all bear their fruits over a relatively short period around June or July (depending on climate and conditions) and are categorised as ‘June-bearing’. F. x ananassa ‘Frisan’ Ever-bearing strawberries (a few F. x ananassa strawberries are of this type, as are woodland or alpine strawberries) are not really ever-bearing. But they do have a longer period of harvesting and can offer 2 or even 3 harvests per year. Day-neutral modern cultivars are far rarer, but these genuinely can fruit right through from June to autumn in mild-warm conditions. Their fruiting is not influenced by day length in the way that other cultivars are. Choosing A Strawberry Container Once you have decided which strawberries to grow, and know where your strawberry containers will be positioned, it is time to choose your containers. Growing strawberries in pots does not necessarily mean growing individual plants in individual plant pots. There are a number of different container options that you could choose. For example, you could consider: Larger planters, window boxes, grow bags or traditional terracotta pots for strawberries , perhaps alongside other companion plants. Traditional terracotta strawberry planters with holes in the side for planting. Stacking planters, which allow you to grow tiers of strawberries. Self-watering strawberry pots, which make watering easier. Vertical gardens (made from fabric with pockets for strawberries to be placed within, or made from old wood pallets, for example). Vertical gardens might also include those made from old guttering, or pots held onto a trellis in which strawberries can be grown. Or they may also simply be shelving on which pots for strawberries can be placed. Planting barrels (with strawberries planted in the top and in holes in the sides). Planting towers (made from a range of reclaimed materials – such as plastic drinks bottles, for example). Hanging baskets, or other hanging containers. Containers within a hydroponic or aquaponic system (growing strawberries in water rather than a more traditional growing medium). “The container I find best for growing strawberries in is a trough,” says Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. “This can be used as a window-box or raised on pot-feet on the ground. It is the right shape to let fruit dangle over the sides to bask in the sun away from damp soil and is almost offered to you for picking. “Their depth offers a good blend of water retention and drainage. I find 3 plants in a 60cm long trough work well.” Remember, there are a range of reclaimed items and materials that you can use to make places to grow these easy, unfussy and forgiving plants. Strawberries are quick growing and shallow-rooted so they can be grown in a huge range of different containers. Filling Containers Unless you are growing strawberries in a hydroponic or aquaponic system, once you have chosen your containers you will need to think about the growing medium. Strawberries need soil which is moist yet free-draining, and they need a fertile potting mix to grow and yield at their best. Make sure you create (or choose) a potting mix that will retain moisture and yet drain freely, to keep your strawberry plants happy and healthy. Commercially, a coir blend is often used, which meets these requirements. Sowing / Planting Strawberries Strawberries can be grown from seed. However, it is far more common, and much easier, to grow strawberries from runners or buy in young plants. Runners are small plants that branch off from existing ones and form new roots. These can be bought bare-root during the dormant period and are planted out early in autumn or early in spring. Bare-root runners are generally cheaper than pot-grown young plants. You can also buy runners which have been placed in cold store in late spring. These will typically fruit after a couple of months. Many gardeners, however, will opt to purchase young plug plants in pots. These are available from late spring into early summer and can be planted out or repotted as soon as you buy them. Potted Strawberry Plant Care Watering When you grow strawberries in pots or other containers, watering is a key consideration. When choosing your containers, you should remember that strawberries will need to be watered more frequently when grown in containers than they will when grown in the ground. You will need to think about watering and how easily you will be able to do so when working out which solution is best for your home growing efforts. Strawberries need reliable moisture throughout the growing season, though won’t like having waterlogged roots. Fertilising Like other fruiting plants, strawberries will benefit from the addition of a potassium-rich liquid plant feed during the growing season. Organic fertilisers which work well for tomatoes should work well for strawberries too. A potash rich liquid feed made from comfrey – comfrey tea – is one excellent organic solution. A liquid feed made from Chenopodium album (fat hen – which is said to be a good dynamic accumulator of potassium) can also be a good choice. Mulching Even in pots, it can be a good idea to mulch around your strawberries as the fruits begin to form. Use straw, untreated cardboard, dry leaves or other carbon-rich mulch material to keep the fruits up off the soil and to retain moisture in the containers where it is possible to do so. Runners If runners form on your strawberry plants while they are still fruiting, you may wish to cut these off in order to allow plants to focus on fruit production. Later, you may like to keep runners attached and peg down the new plants into new pots to increase your stock of strawberry plants. This way, you can easily propagate new plants for next year. Simply peg down the plants into the new pots, keeping them attached to the parent plant until new roots have formed. Then you can cut the runner and place your new pot wherever you wish to grow on. Protection From Pests If something is eating your strawberries before you get to them, you can consider creating some sort of physical barrier to protect your crop, or growing undercover. Placing red stones around your plants to ‘trick’ birds etc. may also help protect your fruits, though is unlikely to be 100% effective. Harvesting Most strawberries will be harvested when they are bright red all over. Keep checking regularly on your crop so you can harvest them as soon as they are ready. If possible, try to harvest on sunny days, during the warmest part of the day – since this is when the fruits will taste best. Eat, cook or preserve your fresh strawberries as soon as possible. They won’t store fresh all that well once ripened, but most gardeners will find that this is not usually a problem, since these delicious fruits are likely to be very popular in your household. References 1. Youssef, J. (2021, November 23). A Glimpse into the Cultural History of Fragaria. Folger Shakespeare Library. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/cultural-history-of-fragaria/ 2. Grubinger, V. (n.d.). History of the Strawberry. The University of Vermont. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/strawberryhistory.html
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