Growing
Registered Arborist Dan Ori On The Reasons To Prune An Apple Tree (And How To Do It)
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune an Apple Tree? Pruning For Health Pruning For Size Pruning For Shape Tip-Bearers & Semi-Tip Bearers When To Prune An Apple Tree Choosing The Right Tools Apple trees can be a great, relatively low maintenance option for many temperate climate gardens, but learning how to prune effectively will keep your tree healthy. Apple trees, especially once established, require little time and effort. If you place your apple tree in the right place, it will likely need little care from you – but there are a few annual jobs to take care of, and pruning is one of those jobs. Why Prune an Apple Tree? Garden apple trees are typically pruned for a number of reasons and if you are clear about your reasons for pruning, this can help you do so correctly and effectively. “Pruning is a big deal for people, as many don’t understand how trees grow and what to do with them,” says Tom Adams, the owner of Tom Adams Fruit Tree Nursery. “Think about why you actually want to prune the tree and go from there.” According to registered Arborist Dan Ori, the main reasons to prune an apple tree include: Improving the health of the tree Creating a desired form (including establishing a leading leader and notching) Reduction and thinning to maintain a tree form Removing potential failure points (including poor branch-unions) Dealing with a nuisance (blocking light, low branch etc) Stimulating new growth Checking growth (stop, remove, brutting, ringing, nicking) Removing unwanted growth including Suckers (from the base/belowground/below the rootstock), epicormic (from a clear trunk), and water shoots(from a dormant/latent bud) Stimulating the development of fruit buds Removing of buds to reduce leaf or more likely fruit growth Fruit thinning and removal Ensuring the tree carries fruit in a healthy harvestable way Increasing airflow through the tree Use as part of a regenerative practice (coppicing and pollarding) The first of these is definitely the most important, and will be a type of pruning required for all apple trees. Pruning For Health The primary goals when pruning an apple tree for health are two-fold. Firstly, you will prune to create a tree without dead, damaged or diseased material. By removing the ‘three D’s’ from the tree, you can keep it healthier, and ensure that the tree is able to put all its energy into flowering and fruiting successfully. Dan Ori explains each of these in more detail below: Dead – “There could be a strong biodiversity case to argue that leaving dead wood in trees can increase habitat for fungal, insect and animal colonisation; however, we will normally prune out dead wood to prevent spread of potential disease, and remove the dangers of the deadwood naturally shedding and falling on something or someone.” Diseased – “With trees we use the term ‘diseased’ in a broad way to cover viral, fungal, and bacterial infections. As mentioned with dead wood, we remove this diseased wood to prevent its spread.” Damaged – “We remove damaged wood for safety reasons and to prevent further damage to the tree, damaged wood can also be an opportunity for rots, disease, and harmful insect/animal colonisation.” Once any dead, damaged or diseased branches have been removed, you should next prune to create an open canopy and to prevent future damage or congestion problems. Prune to create a goblet-shaped structure on bush and standard tree forms. This allows light to penetrate the heart of the canopy more effectively. And can allow fruits to ripen well and increase yield later in the year. Remove branches that rub up against others causing damage when moving in the wind, or which are touching or almost touching. Judiciously thin the branches to create an open structure. A bird should be able to fly between all branches. Look at an apple tree from all angles and remove branches and twigs as required to open up the canopy. Shorten the growth of the previous year on each primary branch by about one-third, to a bud facing in the right direction. This encourages the development of healthy new branches and fruit-producing spurs. “Always keep sharp tools and make sure your cuts are clean to avoid any bacteria or diseases coming in,” says Julie Bellemann, a co-op member from Sheffield Fruit Trees. Pruning For Size You will need a pruning saw to remove larger branches on an overgrown mature tree If you have a mature and overgrown apple tree in your garden, you may wish to prune to reduce the size of a particular tree. You may wish to reduce the size of an apple tree because it has outstripped local resources and needs to be smaller for its own best health. You might also prune an apple tree because it is casting too much shade, or competing too vigorously with other plants nearby. Or you might prune because a particular apple tree is obscuring your view, or simply because it has grown too large to harvest easily. When pruning a mature apple tree to reduce size, it is important to be patient – some very overgrown mature apple trees will need to be pruned in stages over several years. Avoid taking off more than 1/3 of the canopy in one pruning session, even when a more drastic reduction in size is desired. Taking too much material off all at once can damage the trees, and put them under strain. It can also be counterproductive as heavily pruned apple trees can put on a lot of new vertical growth, which can spoil the look and shape of mature trees. “Prune to keep a nice open tree to allow maximum sunlight and air flow around the tree,” Tom suggests. Renovation pruning can breathe new life into an older tree as well as reducing its size. You may also wish to regulate size once a tree has reached an optimum size for the rootstock onto which it has been grafted. Regulated pruning maintains an ideal size without affecting the fruiting potential of the tree. In general, a rule of thumb with regulated pruning is to prune out no more than 10-20% of the canopy each year. Pruning laterals on overly vigorous trees can also help check their growth. Pruning For Shape On bush and standard trees, pruning for shape is usually a simple aesthetic consideration. Just take a step back and look at the overall shape of the tree as you prune for health or size. “Establish the shape of your tree as early as you can,” says Julie. “Prune off the main leader where you want the crown of your tree to start, and then shape it over the next few years. “Once the shape of the tree is established, look at how it grows. You might not need to prune your tree very much every year.” If you are training a young tree into a particular form, then pruning will be a little more complex. Intricacies of formative pruning will depend on the specific trees you have chosen to grow, and the shape you wish it to take. Apple trees can be trained into espaliers, fans, pyramids, columns/cordons or even into step-over hedges if a dwarfing rootstock has been used. Tip-Bearers & Semi-Tip Bearers “Apples will bear their fruit from fruit buds along the branches, from the tip of the branches, or a mix of both,” adds Dan Ori. “A common example of a tip-bearing/semi-tip-bearing cultivar is ‘Bramley’s Seedling’. “With tip bearers, you would not normally reduce the length of branches as this will result in little or no fruit the in the coming year, instead in winter, if you feel it is congested you would remove one in three/four branches of the current year’s growth to thin out the structure. When To Prune An Apple Tree “Winter pruning promotes growth,” says Tom. “Where you make a pruning cut is where strong growth will start during the growing season.” Bush and standard apple trees should be pruned for health, formative pruning (for young bush/standard trees) regulation pruning (to maintain size) and renovation pruning (or overgrown mature trees) should be carried out during the dormant period, between November and March. In areas with wetter winters, it can be a good idea to wait until late winter or very early spring, as Julie shares: “Avoid pruning on wet days or just before a bad frost. Other than that, fruit trees can technically be pruned all year round, but winter is the most common time.” However, apple trees are generally resilient, and, unlike other fruit trees like plums and cherries, will not typically experience any problems after being pruned any time during the winter months. Bush or standard forms which are overly vigorous may additionally be pruned in summer. In this type of summer pruning, more vigorous laterals longer than 30cm are reduced in length by around half all over the tree between mid-August and September. Shaped apple trees in restricted forms -espaliers, fans, pyramids, cordons etc. are typically pruned in summer to maintain their shape. This type of pruning is undertaken in mid to late August, once the bottom third of new shoots has become stiff and woody and the possibility of secondary growth is reduced. The goal is to cut back new shoots to maintain shape, and allow light to reach maturing fruit. Winter vs Summer Pruning Dan Ori argues that when to prune will depend on the species of fruit tree, but for apples and pears: “Winter pruning happens after leaf fall and before buds burst open with new leaves in the spring, this would probably take place in December, January, and February in the UK. “Winter pruning should be about health, form, and stimulating growth rather than fruit bud formation. “Summer pruning is normally undertaken in a short period around the end of July to mid-August in the UK. “Summer pruning should be about fruit bud formation and checking growth.” You could think of it over time as pruning at winter for healthy leaves and pruning during summer for plentiful fruits. Choosing The Right Tools Pruning methods and timings will depend to a large degree on the apple tree variety you are growing, and on your goals. Remember, methods will differ depending on the reasons for pruning, but no matter what type of pruning you are undertaking on your apple tree, certain things remain the same. One important thing is to make sure that you have the right tools for the job. All tools must be clean, and, crucially, must be sharp. Blunt pruning tools can do a lot of damage to your tree. Make sure you have sharp secateurs, loppers (and pruning saw where larger branches must be removed) for the job. Thinking about the pruning requirements for a particular apple tree can help you decide whether or not a particular tree will be the right choice for you and your garden. Typically, standard or bush forms will require the least work, and are the easiest to prune.
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Pruning Requirements For A Plum Tree Are Different To Other Fruits - Here's Why
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune A Plum Tree? When To Prune A Plum Tree Maintenance Pruning Pruning For Shape & Form Pyramid-Shaped Plums Fan Shaped Plums Cordon Or Columnar Plums Renovating An Old Mature Plum Tree Fruit trees are great plants for a relatively low-maintenance garden. Often, once established, they will require little care, but pruning is one important job to take care of. Learning when and how to prune the different trees and other plants in your garden is important, since for many species, pruning correctly can help keep them healthy and productive over time. Plum trees are a little different to apples, and many other common trees when it comes to their pruning requirements – so here is a guide to help you work out what you should do to your plum tree, and when. Why Prune A Plum Tree? ‘Victoria’ plum tree If you have a productive plum tree in your garden, you may wonder why you need to prune it at all. You might be thinking – “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it”. But if you fail to prune a plum tree, you may find that issues begin to creep in – and your productive plum may develop problems and become less productive over time. Plum trees need to be pruned for a number of reasons, including to: Remove dead, damaged or diseased material. Avoid overcrowding which can lead to damage. In order to make sure sunlight reaches fruit which develops on the tree and to allow good light penetration through the crown of the tree. Keep the tree in a desired shape and/or to a desired size. Renovate an older tree and stimulate bare wood areas to new growth. When To Prune A Plum Tree No matter your reasons for pruning a plum tree, and regardless of what you hope to achieve, it is important to prune at the right time. Plums should be pruned in late spring, or over the summer months, and not in autumn or over the winter. Since many other trees are best pruned over the dormant period, this is one thing that sets plum and other Prunus trees apart. Spring is typically the best time to prune young trees, and it is best to prune established trees in the middle of summer. The reason why it is not a good idea to leave the pruning of plum trees until colder weather arrives is that pruning during cold and wet periods can make it more likely that disease will take hold. Plums pruned in autumn or winter are more likely to become infected with silver leaf disease. This is a fungal infection that can kill off branches, or even kill the tree altogether in extreme cases. Maintenance Pruning If your plum tree is in a standard or bush form, then pruning will generally only be light, for general maintenance. A maintenance prune will, first of all, involve checking over the tree, and looking for the “Three D’s” – removing any material that is Dead, Damaged or Diseased. You will also remove any branches which are rubbing against one another, and any that are unbalancing or disrupting the visual appearance of the tree’s form. You may also remove branches to open up the centre of a tree a little more to let the sunlight through, but pruning will generally be fairly light. One other thing to note is that on grafted trees (most fruit trees are generally grafted – with a scion grafted onto a rootstock) you may find suckers coming from the rootstock. These, you will also want to remove. Pruning For Shape & Form Plum trees can also be shaped into specific forms. Where this is the case, the pruning job will be slightly more complex, as you will prune not just for general maintenance, but to maintain the shape and form. Plum trees can be: Small and Pyramid-shaped. Fan trained. Columnar or cordoned. Pyramid-Shaped Plums If you have a pyramid-shaped plum tree, it will typically be kept to between 1.8m and 2.4m (depending on the rootstock that was used). During the first summer, you should wait until July, and then shorten new branches to 20cm, cutting each one above a bud which is facing outwards. Side branches should be cut back to a bud at around 15cm. The central leader should then be trained and tied into the stake. In following years, you should cut back the central leader by two thirds each April, repeating annually until the tree has reached the height optimal for its rootstock. After this, the central leader should be trimmed back each May to keep the tree the same height. Vertical shoots competing with this central leader should be removed in late June. Then, towards the end of July, branch leaders should be pruned to around 20cm, and side branches to around 15cm in length. Fan Shaped Plums If your plum tree is trained into a fan shape against a wall or fence, pruning will be complex at first, but is easy to manage once you have the initial fan shape. The specifics of pruning a fan trained tree will depend on the tree initially purchased, and its stage of growth. For established fan trained plum trees, tie shoots into the framework where there is space to do so. Get rid of shoots growing into the wall or fence, and any that are too crowded – then take back all remaining new shoots to around six leaves. After fruiting, cut back to three leaves to create a spur on which fruits will form next year. Cut out strong upright shoots where these develop on vigorous plum trees entirely if they cannot be tied into the framework. It is also a good idea to ensure that there is new wood but cutting back a couple of older, fruited branches to a vigorous new shoot after harvesting – and to tie that new shoot into the supports in place of that older branch. For plums that are harvested in autumn, it is best to leave replacement pruning of this type until spring. Cordon Or Columnar Plums Cordon or columnar plums are an excellent solution for particularly small spaces. To prune these, once they have reached the desired height, cut back the leader to around 1.5cm each May. Established cordon plums should then be pruned in July/August. Cut off the shoot tip of each lateral spur to leave around 6 leaves. After the harvest, prune back to three leaves to leave the fruiting spurs. Renovating An Old Mature Plum Tree If you have a large and neglected mature plum tree in your garden, you may wish to prune a little more vigorously to reduce size and improve the health and productivity of the tree. But it is important to undertake renovations slowly, over a number of years. Pruning back a plum tree too hard can do more harm than good, so take things a step at a time. If there is an area of bare wood, pruning to a bud above this area may encourage new growth. It may stimulate buds that have become dormant – though there are no guarantees. You can also notch just above a dormant shoot where you want to encourage growth to try to spark it back to life. Primarily, with a large mature tree, you should aim first and foremost to ensure an open canopy, and to remove dead, damaged or diseased material. “Renovating old fruit trees takes time,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “You can’t bring back a productive structure in a year but over 3-5 years you can often restore vigorous growth and a planned structure. “Begin by removing dead, damaged or diseased branches and then select one or two crossing branches in the centre of the tree. “Over the next few years, you slowly restore a desired structure, being careful to go slowly to avoid the tree responding with lots of vigorous new growth.” Try to prune back to natural forks in the tree to avoid leaving messy stubs. An old gardener once told me that you should prune an old fruit tree to reduce congestion over time, so that a pigeon can fly through between all the branches.
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Alicante Tomatoes - Pros, Cons And Growing Tips For This Award-Winning Variety
IN THIS GUIDE Overview ‘Alicante’ Pros ‘Alicante’ Cons How To Grow ‘Alicante’ ‘Alicante’ Plant Care Cordon Support Planting Out Watering Feeding Harvesting Seed Saving Green Tomatoes Alicante tomatoes are one of the most common tomato varieties grown by home gardeners. But are they the right variety for you? We delve a little deeper and take a look at this particular cultivar and its characteristics. Alicante tomatoes are a popular red tomato variety – the fruits are produced relatively abundantly and are deep red, and mid-sized. They have a typical, traditional tomato taste and texture and are considered to be relatively sweet. Overview Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum ‘Alicante’ Common Name(s) Alicante Tomato Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Tomato vines – slight differences depending on cultivar Flowers Yellow When To Sow Indoors January, February, March, April When To Plant Out May, June Harvesting Months June, July, August, September, October When To Prune July, August, September These tomatoes have been awarded with an RHS Award of Garden Merit. They are regarded as a superior variety upon which gardeners experienced and novice can depend. Alicante tomatoes are cordon-type tomato plants, which means that they are best grown as a cordon, on support structures. They can grow up to around 2m in height, with a spread of around 50cm. ‘Alicante’ Pros They tend to germinate and crop fairly reliably, even for those who are not necessarily the most experienced or green-fingered of gardeners. This tomato variety can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or outdoors in a suitable spot. This is an affordable option, typically these seeds are cheaper to purchase than F1 seeds. It is easy to get hold of seeds or plants for this variety wherever you live in the UK, since this is such a common variety. And as an open-pollinated variety, you can save seeds from your Alicante tomatoes and won’t necessarily have to buy more seeds next year. These particular tomatoes taste good, and have a good texture. They can be used raw or cooked in a range of different ways and are a multi-purpose tomato type, unlike other tomatoes which are usually only used in specific ways. ‘Alicante’ Cons Like many other tomato varieties, ‘Alicante’ is not blight resistant and can succumb to this fungal disease and encounter a range of other problems (F1 options can sometimes have greater resistance). Since this is a very common variety, it might not be as interesting or fun to grow as more unusual heritage tomato varieties. It does not differ as dramatically from store-bought tomatoes as some other varieties you could try. As this is a cordon type, it requires a support structure, and a little more work is involved than with a bush type. While they are a relatively early cropping variety, there are varieties which will more reliably produce a yield for areas with a shorter growing season. How To Grow ‘Alicante’ ‘Alicante’ seeds are ubiquitous here in the UK and you should have no trouble getting hold of some seeds. Here are some I grew recently: If you have left it too late and would still like to grow tomatoes this year, you can also fairly easily find pot-grown Alicante tomato plants from local garden centres or online. Where To Grow As mentioned above, one of the good things about this variety is that they can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or outdoors in a sunny and sheltered spot. Note that while cordon tomatoes can be grown in containers, this vigorous and tall variety does not necessarily lend itself to small-scale container growing. However, it can be grown in grow bags or other containers below a support structure so the plants can be cordoned as they grow. Growing From Seed Alicante tomatoes, like other tomato varieties, are typically sown in late winter or early spring. Usually, they are sown between February and April in the UK. I like to grow mine in compostable seed trays, which I place in my heated propagator: As mentioned above, for those who have not yet sown tomatoes this year, there is the option of choosing pot-grown starter plants. This can also be an option where it is difficult for you to sow seeds indoors before the last frost date in your area. ‘Alicante’ Plant Care Cordon Support While some ‘cordon tomatoes’ do not necessarily absolutely have to be grown in this way, I have grown Alicante tomatoes as cordon plants, and without cordoning and I would definitely say that from my experience, cordoning does definitely yield the best results for this heritage tomato variety. Cordoning simply involves tying in the plant to a string, wire or stake as they grow, and pinching off side shoots to focus on one central leader. I grow Alicante tomatoes in my polytunnel some years, and have lengths of wire between the crop bars. I tie jute twine to these wires, and tie in the tomatoes to these lengths of twine as they grow. Planting Out When planting out Alicante tomato plants, bury each one a little deeper in the soil than it was in its pot. This also encourages stronger root systems, which is especially important for cordoned tomato plants. Make sure you harden off tomatoes grown indoors, and keep an eye on the weather. Only plant out once the weather has reliably warmed and there is no longer any risk of frost. Watering As with other tomatoes, it is important to make sure that you water deeply and less frequently, rather than little and often. This encourages the plants to form stronger and deeper root systems. Make sure that you water at the base of the plant, rather than watering from above. While for some years, late blight cannot be avoided, reducing the wetting of foliage can reduce the chances of a severe blight infestation taking hold. “Care should be taken with this approach because if you under-water or water tomatoes inconsistently during flower and fruit formation it can result in the skin splitting or blossom end rot making your tomatoes inedible,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I would normally expect to water indoor and outdoor tomatoes daily during summer in the southeast of England. “Getting the watering balance right is a matter of trial and error. If you can afford to try a few different approaches to watering frequency and amount of water on different beds and containers I recommend it, as this will help you to understand what gets you the best harvests.” Feeding Alicante tomatoes are a vigorous variety and tomatoes are pretty ‘hungry’ plants – make sure you have provided them with fertile growing conditions. I tend to mulch newly planted tomatoes with comfrey leaves and other potassium-rich dynamic accumulator plants like Chenopodium album (Lambsquarters / Fat Hen). I also feed the tomato plants with a comfrey liquid feed during flowering, and again once the fruits have begun to form. With tomatoes, it is important to use a potash-rich fertiliser rather than one which is too high in nitrogen, since excess nitrogen can encourage foliage growth at the expense of flowers and fruit. “There are lots of proprietary tomato feeds available from retailers and I recommend formulations that include seaweed extract for the best results,” shares Dan. “Keep in mind that just because it is labelled tomato feed, it doesn’t mean you can’t use it on other flowering plants!” Harvesting Alicante tomatoes can be ready for harvesting from around July, and will often crop right through to October. Remain vigilant and look out for blight during late summer. Pick tomatoes as they mature. Alicante tomatoes ripening on the plant Seed Saving Remember, since ‘Alicante’ is an heirloom or heritage tomato variety, open-pollinated and not an F1 hybrid, you can save the seeds from your tomatoes to sow next year. To save the seeds: Choose a healthy, fully ripe red tomato. Cut it open, and scoop out the seeds into a small jar of water. Leave the seeds in the water for a few days and mould will form. This helps the gelatinous seed coating to break down, improving chances of successful germination. Tip out the seeds into a sieve and run it under a tap to wash the mould away and clean the seeds thoroughly. Place them on a paper towel to dry thoroughly before you store them in a paper envelope in a cool, dark place until next year. Green Tomatoes With ‘Alicante’, it is likely that you will have some green tomatoes yet to ripen at the end of the growing season, but there are certain things you can do to get green tomatoes to ripen on the plant. Try to keep them on the vine for the best flavour – pull up the plant and hang it somewhere warm. If there is other ripening fruit nearby, this will speed up the process. Even if you are still left with some green tomatoes at the end of the season, it is worthwhile remembering that you can still use these in a range of recipes – Green tomato chutney and green tomato salsa are just two of the more common options.
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With The Right Precautions And Care, It's Possible To Grow Melons In Your Garden At Home
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Melons Harvesting Common Problems References There’s perhaps nothing as refreshing as biting into a slice of juicy watermelon on a hot day. The cool, hydrating freshness backed by a sweet but not overpowering flavour quite unlike anything else. Then, moving onto the cantaloupe and honeydew melons, we find distinctly delicious variations on the flavour theme. The main melons Of the many melons Mother Nature has chosen to grace us with, these three are maybe the most famous, but they are far from the only ones. Now, you may think melons have more exotic origins than UK growing conditions can satisfy? Think again. With the right precautions and care, it’s possible to get a melon harvest growing here in Britain. And in this guide, we’re going to tell you how to do it. Overview Botanical Name Cucumis melo Common Name(s) Melons Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual Flowers Yellow flowers from which fruit form When To Sow (Indoors) April Harvesting Months July, August, September The name ‘melon’ refers to various plants and fruits in the family Cucurbitaceae.1 Colloquially we say melon to refer to the fruit – usually a fairly hefty, oval affair – although scientifically it refers to the plant as well. There’s competition between ancient civilisations for the accolade of who introduced melons to Europe, with Ancient Egyptians being favourite contenders until the recent discovery of seeds suggesting that the Nuragic civilisation – Ancient Sardinians – may have beat them to it.2 Whoever first brought them here, however, it’s safe to say that they’ve become favourites. And as one of the first crops to become domesticated by humans, and introduced to areas colonised by Westerners in previous centuries, melons have now succeeded in conquering the globe.3 How To Grow Melons When growing melons in the UK, there are a few things to keep in mind. First up: only certain varieties are suitable (and, sadly, watermelons are not amongst them!). Second: you’ll see far better results if you’re able to grow them in a greenhouse or, failing that, under a cloche in a very sunny area of your garden. Where To Grow As we alluded to just now, UK melons are quite fussy in terms of where they will grow. A greenhouse is your best bet, as this most closely simulates the warm conditions they’ve evolved to be used to. A polytunnel or similar structure will work, too. Just make sure it’s somewhere that traps the heat and humidity. If you’ve not got the space for one of these structures (or the time to build one), melons will also grow well in a coldframe, or under a cloche. If using a cold frame or cloche, make sure it’s in a spot that gets full sunlight, is protected against the elements, and is at zero risk of frost. Melons will not do well at all with frost! Sowing Melon seeds will do best if germinated in a propagator. Sow two seeds for each melon you want to grow (you’ll select the strongest one later), and pop them about 2cm into the soil. Place the propagator somewhere warm and well-lit, where temperatures will be between 18-22°C – a sunny windowsill is a good bet. Do this in April. Planting Out When your melon seeds have germinated, discard the weakest of each pair. Then harden off the strongest: keep it outdoors in a pot during the day, and then bring it in at night. Do this for a fortnight to get the plant used to outdoor conditions without being fully exposed to them. “If the plants are to be grown in a greenhouse or cold frame, this hardening off can be done inside these so they adjust slowly to life outside the propagator,” shares Horticultural Consultant Roy Nicol. You can tell when melon seedlings are ready to be planted up, as they’ll have three or four distinct leaves. Prepare a spot for each of your melon plants about a month before planting out. Get rid of all weeds, and work a couple of buckets worth of compost or well-rotted manure through the soil. Then dress with fertiliser to ensure plenty of nutrients are available to the fledgling plants. Melons like rich and fertile soil that can drain well while retaining moisture. Plant your melons into the soil, grow bags or large pots of fertile compost in a greenhouse or cold frame or in the prepared ground if growing under cloches in late May or June after the last frost has definitely passed. Encouraging Growth When your melons are planted, pinch above the fifth leaf. This will encourage side shoots and, when you see these, remove all but the four strongest. This process helps give your melons the best chance to grow strong and healthy. Train your shoots to give each one space to grow. In particularly hot and sunny spells, consider shading the inside of your greenhouse, polytunnel, or coldframe with gauze or similar. This will shade the melons against the most intense light, and protect them from scorching. Ensure the place where your melons are growing is well ventilated, to allow pollination to take place. Unlike some other crops it’s not recommended to pollinate by hand as the flowers are delicate and prone to damage. When the fruits are about the size of a button mushroom, choose the four strongest ones on each stem and remove the rest. Make sure to remove further leaves, flowers, and fruits which develop on the plant. While this may seem a little extreme, it encourages the plant to direct its resources toward making the remaining fruits as big as possible. Pinch out side shoots that appear beyond these fruits. You’re essentially trying to stop your plant from spreading its energy too thinly, which will result in a bunch of small, lacklustre melons. Rest individual melons on a flat, smooth surface rather than allowing them to rest on the soil surface. This prevents damage to the skin resting on the ground, and leads to a more attractive and healthier fruit at harvest time. “If the fruits don’t reach the soil and are hanging down, special nets can be bought to support the developing fruit – alternatively an old pair of tights works well,” shares Roy. Watering Melons need to be kept well watered all the time. Water the soil and roots rather than the areas of the plant above the soil surface. Fertilising Your melons are hungry plants, and will need to be fed every week or so with liquid fertiliser. You’ll know when it’s time to start feeding them as the fruits will be just below the size of an egg. Harvesting Here we are, at perhaps the most exciting part of this guide! Your melons are ready to harvest when they begin to put forth that delicious melon aroma. The fruits may start to crack, too. Simply remove the melons from the stem and bring them indoors. They’re ready to use straight away! Common Problems Melons are, sadly, not exempt from visitations from pests in your garden. Greenhouses and other hot growing environments bring their own challenges, so here’s what to look for. Glasshouse Red Spider Mites If you notice a thin film of webbing over parts of your melon plant and a pale mottling on the upper side of the leaves, you could have Red Spider Mites. You may be able to see the tiny mites on the under side of leaves rampantly feasting on browned and wilting leaves. With this pest, prevention is the best cure. Spritz your melon plants regularly with mist to keep things moist, water the floor of the greenhouse in the mornings and avoid the dry conditions that these visitors like to exploit. Powdery Mildew If you see spots of white powder, almost mould-like in appearance, on the leaves of your melon plant, it’s likely you’ve let the soil get too dry, or the air too hot. “Again, prevention is the best cure and maintaining watering at the roots of the plant is the most effective way to prevent powdery mildew forming,” adds Roy. Brush it off and rectify these two issues to see if the problem is resolved. If not, you may need to remove and destroy affected sections. There you have it: everything you need to get a tasty bunch of melons growing in your garden. While they need a little more TLC than some other plants you could grow, there’s a special charm to tending a crop that isn’t quite at home here. References 1. Chomicki, G., Schaefer, H., & Renner, S. (2019). Origin and domestication of Cucurbitaceae crops: insights from phylogenies, genomics and archaeology. New Phytologist, 226(5), 1240–1255. https://doi.org/10.1111/nph.16015 2. Strauss, M. (2015, August 21). The 5,000-Year Secret History of the Watermelon. National Geographic. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history/article/150821-watermelon-fruit-history-agriculture 3. Cucurbit Biodiversity I: Cucumbers, Melons, and Gourds. (n.d.). Kitchen of Diversity. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.sci.muni.cz/botany/nekola/kitchen/bakercreekatoz/cucumber/biodiversity.html
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Follow These Guidelines When Growing Marrows For A Bumper Harvest
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Marrows Marrow Plant Care Harvesting Common Problems References Marrows don’t get enough love, really. These long, cylindrical vegetables grow large and quickly, and go a surprisingly long way in the kitchen. Their gentle flavour is fairly versatile, lending itself well to roasting, grilling, and various other cooking styles – and to top it off, they’re easy to grow. Marrows are vegetables closely related to melons, squashes, and pumpkins. They share a similar texture, if not a little squelchier, and have a gentle flavour that acts as a canvas for other flavours to play upon. Overview Botanical Name Cucurbita pepo Common Name(s) Marrows, Courgette, Squash Plant Type Fruit / Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual Flowers Yellow flowers from which fruit form When To Sow April (Indoors), May, June Harvesting Months July, August, September, October Marrows are also very similar to courgettes, which makes sense considering that it’s the same plant. Leave a courgette on the vine for longer and it will keep growing, at some point reaching the right size to be classed as a marrow. Zucchini is the American word for courgettes and it sits in the Cucurbita genus (Cucurbitaceae family) as a common relative of squash, melons and cucumbers.1 The concept of courgettes came later, as gardeners discovered the slight difference in taste between those vegetables left to mature for a longer time on the plant. How To Grow Marrows Marrows like full sun, moisture-retentive soil, and shelter from the elements. Find a spot that fits these criteria, and you’ll be rewarded with a healthy marrow harvest soon enough. Sowing It’s easy to grow marrows from seed, and packets should be available from all good garden retailers. You can sow indoors or outdoors, too, giving you flexibility to choose the method best suited to the space and time available. To sow marrows outdoors, put seeds about 2.5cm deep into the ground. Aim to sow outdoors in May or June. We recommend planting 2 or 3 for each plant you want, in holes close together – cover each with plastic, netting, a cloche or similar to keep pests away, and aim to leave them undisturbed for a couple of weeks after germination. Before the next step, remove all but the strongest seedling. Your plants should be around 1m apart, and the same is true for transplanted marrows. To sow marrows indoors, sow individual seeds about 15mm deep in pots at least 8cm deep; lay the seeds on their narrow sides. You can do this in April as long as temperatures won’t fall below 18°C. Transplanting Marrows need special planting pockets prepared before you plant them out. This involves scooping out about 15 inches squared (width, height, depth) of soil and filling with compost. Do this a couple of weeks before you plan to plant out your marrow seedlings, to ensure the young plant has all the nutrients it needs as soon as it hits the ground. Make one planting pocket for each plant. Alternatively, thoroughly fork the soil in the area where you’re planting and add generous amounts of organic matter, such as home-made compost. If you sowed your marrow seeds indoors, you’ll need to harden them off before planting out. For one week leave the plants outdoors during the day and bring indoors overnight. Then, the next week, leave outdoors in a very sheltered spot for the whole week. This will get them acclimated to outdoor conditions, without shocking them too much that it’ll cause damage. If you’re not keen on starting seedlings indoors or outdoors you can buy young marrow plants from garden stores, and these are ready to plant directly into the ground. Using Growbags / Containers Marrows also grow well in containers or growbags; just make sure the container is big enough! Diameter and height should be at least 45cm. With growbags, don’t plant more than two marrow seedlings in a bag otherwise it’ll get crowded. Whatever method you choose, aim to plant out your marrows in May or June. Marrow Plant Care Watering These big plants need plenty of water to keep healthy. Take care to water the soil, not the plant, as overly moist conditions topside can lead to damage. If possible, dig a small hole next to, or shallow moat around, next to the marrow, taking care not to damage it, and water into that will ensure that the water goes to the roots rather than the parts of the plant just below the soil. Hydrating roots rather than plant material reduces the risk of rot. Feeding Once you spot your first fledgling marrow, feed the plant fortnightly with a liquid fertiliser high in Potassium. Doing so will encourage more growth, giving you bountiful marrows further down the line. Plant Support Not many vegetables need this step, so you may not have seen it before. We recommend placing each marrow on a flat surface (like a tile) to keep it away from the soil. This prevents scuffing on the bottom, and should lead to better-looking veggies at harvest time. Harvesting When the marrow is at the size you want it, simply pluck it from the stem. Marrows are often ready to harvest in July and will continue to ripen until October, giving you a long harvest season. And if you’re not feeling patient, remember you can harvest small marrows as courgettes. Common Problems Marrows are prone to a few issues, but knowing what you’re up against is usually enough to prevent catastrophe. Here’s what to keep an eye on. No Fruit / Stunted Growth In years with poor weather in the early summer, you may find that your marrows are small or non-existent. This is caused by lack of adequate pollination and will, when the weather gets better, resolve itself. Just be patient and prepare for the eventuality of harvesting a little later than initially planned. Mould Sometimes you’ll find blankets of grey mould covering parts of your marrow plant. This is more likely in humid conditions, providing a good reminder of why it’s important to water the roots, rather than the top of the plant. If you do see mould, remove and destroy the infected areas to prevent the issue from spreading elsewhere on the plant. “As well as grey mould, powdery mildew, which forms a white coating on plants, can be a common problem with marrows,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “I find it usually develops on stressed plants, such as those spaced too close together, watered irregularly or overfed. “Slugs will also devour young plants. I’ve found wool pellets to be a useful defence, which additionally can be used to mulch marrow plants. Mulching is useful for retaining soil moisture.” Soon you’ll be singing the overdue praises of this currently unsung vegetable, welcoming it into your kitchen and exploring the myriad ways it can be used. References 1. Cucurbita pepo (marrow). (2022). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.17069
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Growing Bell Peppers - 'The Hotter The Capsicum, The More Heat It Needs To Germinate'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Bell Peppers Capsicum Plant Care Harvesting Troubleshooting References This variety, known variously as ‘Bell Peppers’, ‘Sweet Peppers’, ‘Capsicum’, or even just ‘Pepper’, is from the Capsicum annuum species. The humble pepper has had a long journey to get to our plates. Native to Central and South America, they gained popularity in Europe and Asia from the 1500s.1 A Hungarian botanist developed the mild pepper in the 1920s, increasing its appeal to the average palette.2 Overview Botanical Name Capsicum annuum Common Name(s) Sweet (Bell) Peppers Plant Type Fruit Native Area Central & South America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen (though usually treated as an annual) Flowers Flowers followed by edible peppers When To Sow (Indoors) January to April Plant Out June Harvesting Months July to October Bell peppers come in four colours: green, yellow, orange, and red. If you’ve not grown them yourself before, you may not know that they’re all actually the same plant, just at different stages of ripeness. Green is the least ripe, red the most, and orange and yellow in between. When growing your own peppers it’s up to you to decide which colour you want them to be when picked. Leave them on a little longer and they’ll become less bitter! This mirrors the behaviour of chilli peppers – a close relative of bell peppers – where the fruits become hotter (rather than sweeter) the longer they are left on the plant. How To Grow Bell Peppers You can buy bell pepper seeds from any good garden retailer, so the first sections of this guide will cover growing bell peppers from seed. This is actually an easy but very rewarding process that can be undertaken on any home windowsill with ease. However, it is also possible to buy a young plant if you’d rather skip the first few steps, and get straight to planting out. Where To Grow Because of their warm heritage, bell peppers do best when they’re kept warm. Grow in a heated propagator with the temperature set around 20°C or, if you don’t have one of those, on a warm and sunny windowsill. Wherever you choose to grow your pepper, put a stick in the soil and cover the whole thing with a plastic bag. This will keep heat and moisture in, leading to better growth. “I find the hotter the Capsicum, the more heat it needs to germinate,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant and Instructor. “Bell pepper seeds will generally germinate readily in an unheated greenhouse from April in the South of England, on a windowsill from March. “Hotter chilli varieties need more heat and time, so I sow my chilli varieties from January.” Sowing Sow your bell pepper seeds between the middle of February and the end of April. Pop them in seed compost, either in seed trays or in individual pots, then place the seedlings somewhere warm and cover them over, as detailed previously. You’re looking for two full leaves to form on each seedling before you do anything else, as this is the first indication that they’re strong enough to move. “I sow on the surface of a seed tray containing a mix of moist 50% well-sieved seed compost and 50% vermiculite,” shares Dan. “After watering, I now have two ways of getting the germination temperatures I need. Firstly, I place them in a heated propagator with a propagator lid with access to light, leaving until ready to transplant seedlings into pots, or alternatively, I place them in a clear plastic bag or propagator and put them in the airing cupboard above the water heater until seedlings emerge. “I then place them in a warm light space, but not on a windowsill unless in a heated propagator, as night-time temperatures can be very cold, I transplant them into pots when ready.” Transplanting (Indoors) For best results, growing indoors is probably my favourite. This gives your peppers a better chance to stay warm, especially if you grow them somewhere like a greenhouse that’s designed to capture the sunlight. You’ll want a fairly large pot, ideally 30cm or more in diameter, to give your pepper plant space to grow. Even though the tiny seedling will look lost in a pot all by itself, you’ll be surprised how quickly they grow! Aim to move your young pepper plant at the end of April if your greenhouse is heated, or at the beginning of May if not. Transplanting (Outdoors) When growing outdoors you can put your peppers in a pot, a grow bag, or straight into the ground. Plant out after the middle of May, long after the last frost has passed. Young peppers are fragile and won’t do well at all with frosty conditions, so take extra care to heed this step. “Plant out or plant on into a bigger pot using the same compost mix and consider feeding with a seaweed growth stimulant or tomato feed with seaweed extract after a few days of settling in,” shares Dan. Capsicum Plant Care If you haven’t grown peppers before you’ll be pleasantly surprised to learn they are fairly easy to care for (especially when growing indoors). One thing you must absolutely get right is their watering schedule, as too little water can cause the fruits of your plant to spoil and rot. This is something which I have direct experience with, owing to my inconsistent and often erratic watering schedule! Watering Peppers are very thirsty plants, so make sure to water them regularly. Stay especially vigilant during hot weather to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out, as this will hinder their ability to grow. In late spring and summer, I water mine at least once a day – sometimes more. I also use a mulch to help prevent moisture from evaporating from the soil. Fertilising After the first fruits appear, give your pepper plants a healthy dose of liquid fertiliser. Tomato or comfrey feed is a good shout, or something with a similar nutritional profile. This will help your peppers to grow big and strong. During fruiting season I’d recommend feeding your plant every fortnight or so. Pinching Back Left unchecked, pepper plants can become quite unruly. You can pinch back stems to curate growth, with pinched tips good for encouraging branching, and pinching back side shoots good for promoting more peppers to grow. Note that while pinching back side shoots will lead to more fruit, each one will be smaller. Harvesting When your peppers look ready to pick, you can pick them. Wait until they’re the size you want, and leave them until they’re at your preferred stage of ripeness. Remember: green peppers will ripen into red, through yellow and orange. If you leave a pepper on the vine to ripen, another pepper won’t be able to take its place. Harvesting green peppers brings the chance for an extra set of fruit that season, so plan your picking accordingly. Troubleshooting As with anything in your garden, peppers are prone to attract certain pests. Here’s what to look for and, more importantly, how to eradicate them: Aphids These miniature green visitors love to eat the sap inside leaves, then leave their excrement behind which attracts fungus. You’ll be able to see aphids with the naked eye, and if you notice a visitation, the first step is to remove them by hand. Personally I have had multiple aphid infestations on my pepper plants and have usually managed to curtail them by washing the leaves and removing by hand. Ideally you wouldn’t want to use a pesticide on your peppers as it’s best to grow them organically, but this is a last-ditch option to consider if all else has failed. Glasshouse Red Spider These fellows sometimes weave thin webs to cover a section of a plant, before feasting on everything inside. This type of bug is attracted by hot, dry growing conditions, so ensuring air remains moist is a good way of keeping them at bay. Spritz your pepper plants occasionally to deter them. If identified, the remedy is the same as aphids. You’ll be amazed at how many peppers your humble little seedling will put forth by the end of its first season, and you’ll be amazed at how good they taste. References 1. Capsicum annuum (bell pepper). (2019). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.15784 2. The Travelling Botanist: Belated Plant Fascination Day Special: Peppers! (2019, May 21). Herbology Manchester. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://herbologymanchester.wordpress.com/2019/05/21/the-travelling-botanist-belated-plant-fascination-day-special-peppers/
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Give Your Chilli Plants These Perfect Conditions For A Bumper Yield
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Soil Requirements Preferred Aspect & Temperature How To Grow Chillies Sowing Watering & Feeding Transplanting Outdoors Growing Common Problems Background & Origins References Passionately liked nearly the world over, one or another type of chilli is an essential ingredient for the respective cuisines of nations as disparate as Mexico, Thailand, India and Italy. Chillies are best known – and rightfully so – as a hot and spicy food. However, the hotness of different chilli varieties covers an incredibly wide range. Furthermore, chillies also have width and depth in flavour. No, it’s not just fire-breathing types or entrants in chilli-eating contests who are fond of chillies and would like to grow these tasty little things. Of course, chillies are primarily a spice and produce a ‘hot’ sensation but this heat has an exceptionally wide range from tickling and teasing all the way to painful and injurious, but there’s also a taste component. Different chillies also have varying dryness or moistness. Not to forget that different chilli varieties not only have different tastes but often have distinctly different scents and ‘finishes’ or aftertastes. Overview Botanical Name Capsicum Common Name(s) Chillies Plant Type Fruit Native Area Central & South America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Flowers followed by edible peppers When To Sow (Indoors) February, March, April Plant Out June It is worth noting that the genus name ‘Capsicum’ is often used as a synonym for mild bell peppers which are actually a type of Capsicum annuum.1 Bell peppers are somewhat challenging to grow, especially for hobbyists. The good news is that chillies are quite easy to grow, and, as a general rule, the smaller the chilli, the easier it is to grow. In this article we focus on ‘Chillies Proper’ – the hot stuff – and not on Bell Peppers. Chilli plants in their native Tropical and Sub-Tropical Zone habitats are perennials. In temperate and cool regions they are usually grown as annuals and – unfortunately – even treated and viewed as such. Remember that, as a general rule, the quicker a chilli is picked, the less spicy it is and the less developed its flavour; the more it matures on the vine and the later it is harvested, the hotter it becomes and the greater its nuances and depths of flavour. Different varieties have different ‘ranges of maturity’ so to speak. Habitat & Growing Conditions Soil Requirements Chillies grow best in a loam mix with a fair amount of organic compost and manure but little clay. Soil pH should hover right around Slightly Acidic. Preferred Aspect & Temperature They are not winter-hardy at all, being indigenous to Tropical and Sub-Tropical climates. They prefer full sun locations. In the UK you need to start off chillies in seed pod trays or small pots indoors or in a greenhouse. Chillies may be kept indoors or in a greenhouse year-round provided they get a lot of sun. Many chilli varieties can be grown even in growbags. After the plants have developed you would transplant them to suitable containers or in a bed outdoors. If you grow chilli plants outdoors then they will effectively be annuals but if you grow them in containers, then you can overwinter the plants indoors in a sunny spot or in a heated greenhouse and they will flower and fruit for about three more years. How To Grow Chillies Sowing Sow seeds in preferably February otherwise in March. You may transplant your growing chillies more than once if you wish. The rule is to pot on when roots become visible through the drainage hole or when it appears that the root system has filled up the pot. Chilli seeds do not germinate as readily as most vegetables and fruits. To up the chances of germination, dampen a few paper towel sheets, put seeds in them, rumple the towels, and let them be for a day or two before sowing them. Prepare small, 6.5cm, terracotta pots with a mix of seeding compost and organic soil without clay or peat. Bring out your seeds wrapped in paper towels – some or many may be starting to germinate. Place two or three seeds just a touch under the surface of the soil. Spread a bit of perlite or vermiculite on the surface for absorption and retention of moisture. The pots can be kept in a heated greenhouse or in a sunny spot indoors at a temperature hovering around 20°C. Watering & Feeding Water them every two days so that the soil stays moist though it should not stay wet. Feed them, sparingly, with a liquid fertiliser like Chilli Focus. Alternatively, feed them, sparingly, with 5-5-5 fertiliser to start off with. Keep an eye on the plant’s height and overall shape as it grows. Transplanting When you feel the plant has reached a desirable height and needs to have more spread, pinch out the tip – the plant will then start becoming bushier. You will need to transplant the young plants at least once. Do so when a plant’s roots start peeking through the drainage holes, when the root system has just about filled the pot, or in early-to-mid May. Prepare 18-20cm pots with a good organic loam including compost but very little clay and no peat. Transplant one or more developing plants, each to its own pot. If you decide to transplant the plants in an outdoor bed, do so when the soil temperature is not below 20°C. “The UK is a challenging climate for growing chillies outside, as it just gets too wet and cold at times in summer,” says Colin Skelly, a professional gardener who has been awarded the Master Horticulturist status by the RHS. “I always grow mine in the greenhouse in pots. However, in a south-facing sheltered spot, it might be done in the south of the country. “To get the soil temperature up prior to planting, use a cloche to trap heat close to the ground. “This will ensure that the roots of the chillies will have the best chance to establish when transplanted out.” Stake the developing plants as and when necessary. Outdoors Growing In mid-to-end May you can move your chilli plant pots outdoors. From June, water the plants a little more and continue to feed them. Be aware that chillies not only exude and give out warmth and heat, chilli plants also take in and need warmth and heat – they dislike cold. Feed a little more regularly and generously after the plants have flowered and have started to bear fruit. Common Problems In the UK you need to watch out for aphids and whitefly, and also red spider mite. Growing chillies in greenhouses increases the chances of the plants being attacked by these pests. These can be reduced by using an insecticidal soap. Background & Origins C. anuum species were and are indigenous to Central America, and C. chinense species to the landmass we know as Venezuela, Guyana, French Guiana, and Suriname.2 The plants were domesticated in about 6000 BC in what we now know as Mexico, the very southern part of it.3 Several thousand years later in the 1490s when Christopher Columbus and then the Spanish conquistadors made landfall in Central and South America, they observed that chillies were a staple part of the Aztec and Mayan diet.4 It was, in fact, Columbus who was responsible for introducing this New World fruit to Spain and Portugal near the end of the Fifteenth Century.5 Within a couple of decades this spicy delicacy had established a foothold in Turkey and Italy. As such, believe it or not, until about 1500 only Central and South Americans had enjoyed this delicious spice! Though we may associate chillies with Thailand, India, China, and Vietnam, those nations are latecomers to the Chilli Party. Different species and varieties found their ways to these lands during the 1500s via the Silk Route and other trade routes, and these nations evidently adopted the fruit as their own, as seen from their respective cuisines. In fact, India and China soon became among the world’s largest cultivators and exporters (of some or another species and varieties) of chillies, which they remain to this day.6 References 1. Pepper, bell. (n.d.). Plant Village. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/pepper-bell/infos 2. Capsicum annuum (bell pepper). (2022). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.15784 3. Hirst, K. (2019, October 2). Chili Peppers – An American Domestication Story. ThoughtCo. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.thoughtco.com/chili-peppers-an-american-domestication-story-170336 4. What Did The Maya, Aztec and Incas Eat? (n.d.). DK Find Out! Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dkfindout.com/uk/history/mayans/what-did-maya-aztecs-and-incas-eat/ 5. Chile Peppers. (n.d.). Silk Routes. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://iwp.uiowa.edu/silkroutes/chile-peppers 6. Chilli Outlook. (2021, August). Agricultural Market Intelligence Centre. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://pjtsau.edu.in/files/AgriMkt/2021/August/chilli-August-2021.pdf
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How To Grow Pumpkins: No Autumnal Vegetable Patch Would Be Complete Without Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Pumpkin Types How To Grow Pumpkins Pumpkin Plant Care Common Problems Harvesting & Storage References These days more and more gardeners have taken to growing their own produce, reaping the benefits of homegrown fruit and veggies. And let’s face it: no autumnal vegetable patch would be complete without a pumpkin or two. Pumpkins are super easy to grow, and once harvested, it’s easy to make use of the entire fruit (yes, pumpkins are fruits!). The flesh can be used in curries and stews or pureed to use in desserts. The toasted seeds can be seasoned with sugar and salt and make for an extremely tasty snack and can also be sprinkled over salads. Whilst you can’t eat the skin, it can be composted to contribute to your autumn garden. And, of course, come Halloween you can get carving and make your own ghoulish Jack-o’-lantern. Overview Botanical Name Cucurbita pepo Common Name(s) Pumpkin Plant Type Fruit Native Area North & Central Americas Hardiness Rating H1C (mostly) Foliage Green leaves that are large & lobed Flowers Yellow, edible, followed by the edible fruit When To Sow April, May Plant Out June Harvesting Months September, October As previously mentioned, pumpkins are fruit, with most varieties deep yellow to orange in colouration. They can be found on all continents apart from Antarctica and are one of the oldest domesticated plants with records showing them to be cultivated as early as 7,500 years ago.1 Almost all pumpkins are edible, and their name originates from the Greek word ‘pepon’ meaning large melon.2 Pumpkin Types While you are probably familiar with the classic orange pumpkins, there are actually over forty varieties of pumpkins, ranging in size, texture and colour. “Pumpkins are such fun to grow and I’ve found them relatively stress-free, although I always forget to label things properly so don’t ask me what varieties I’m growing!” says Shannon Keary, Garden Blogger & Podcaster. Their shelf life also differs, making some better for display purposes than others. ‘Atlantic Giant’ If it’s size you’re after, then the Atlantic giant pumpkin is just the ticket. This variety is one of the world’s largest pumpkin and can weigh up to 180kg (400lbs).3 When Cinderella went to the ball, it was most likely this type of pumpkin that became her magical carriage! Its skin is bright orange and rough in texture. Atlantic giant pumpkins are perfect for local pumpkin competitions but, while they are edible, they have little flavour. That said, they do make an exciting addition to any garden, providing you have the space and can be composted once they begin to decay. ‘Long Island Cheese’ This variety gets its name from an uncanny resemblance to a wheel of cheese. Thankfully it doesn’t taste like cheese, instead boasting yummy flesh that resembles butternut squash, making it perfect for cooking. Deep orange in colour and averaging at a weight of around 4.5kg (10lbs), this variety also makes for a wonderful display piece for harvest celebrations and Halloween. ‘Queensland Blue’ As the name would suggest, these pretty pumpkins come in a beautiful blue colour. Hailing from Australia and growing to a weight of between 3-4kg (6-10lbs) in around 100 days, this variety has a tasty, treacle-like flavour, making it an excellent ingredient for desserts and pies. If you want your pumpkins to stand out in a crowd, then this unusual variety will do just that and will make your vegetable patch truly pop! ‘Baby Boo’ Whilst we’re on the topic of unusually coloured pumpkins, the baby boo variety can’t go without a mention. This palm-sized, pure white specimen grows no bigger than a tennis ball and takes around 90 days to develop. Once fully grown, these ghostly baby boo pumpkins should be picked promptly to avoid discolouration. This type of pumpkin is not edible and is too small to carve so, after harvest, it is really only useful for decorative purposes. But, mixed in with a display of orange pumpkins, it can make a real statement. “I love growing mini pumpkins like ‘Jack Be Little’ and ‘Baby Boo’ over an archway,” shares Emma Bailey, a Garden Blogger. “It always looks so magical and impressive and really doesn’t take that much work! Smaller varieties of pumpkin love to climb, so growing them vertically is a great way to save space. “In terms of helping them to climb, you can start to tie them in with some twine but once they are established they will happily cling onto your structure themselves!” How To Grow Pumpkins Once you’ve decided on your pumpkin of choice, it’s time to get to business. While the time it takes for them to reach maturity may differ, all pumpkins require the same growth and care regimen. Sowing Indoors Sowing pumpkins indoors is quick and easy, and you can get to work anytime between April and June. Simply fill a 7.5cm pot with compost and place the seed on its side at a depth of around 2.5cm. Once sown, water and place on a windowsill. When the roots start appearing through the pot’s bottom, you can transfer your little plant to a 12.5cm pot. Once the seedlings have established, you can then plant them outside. Space them at least 2m apart so they have plenty of room to grow – and be sure to pick a sunny, sheltered spot to ensure they thrive. “Pumpkin seeds germinate easily, although best sown on their thin edge, I have found almost all seeds sown will come up regardless of how they a placed in compost or soil,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. Sowing Outdoors Whilst sowing pumpkins is best done indoors, if you have a sheltered spot available in your garden, you can sow them outdoors a little later in the year. Planting pumpkin seeds outside should be done in late May or early June. Dig a hole of around 3cm in depth and place three seeds in the hole on their sides – you should then cover the area with plastic sheeting or jars for at least two weeks. Once the seeds have germinated, remove the weakest seedlings so that only the strongest remain. “They need nutrient-rich soil, so dig in some manure before planting,” shares Emma. “Pumpkins are hungry plants, so lots of water and regular liquid seaweed feeds are essential for healthy growth.” Helpful hint: If you don’t want to start from scratch, most garden centres sell young pumpkin plants to help get you started. Pumpkin Plant Care Pumpkins are hardy crops and will flourish almost anywhere with the right care. Soil Requirements To achieve the best results, make sure they are planted in moisture-retentive soil, protect the seedlings with mulch and feed with a general fertiliser or tomato plant food. “Pumpkins are super hungry, so I’ve started digging large tubs with holes in the bottom near the plants and creating my own mini composts heaps which feed the plants as it decomposes,” shares Shannon. “I’ve also used old milk bottles with small holes planted out about 20cm beneath the soil to ensure that the water goes directly to the roots this year. “With the hot weather, having this makes it so much easier and less wasteful to water.” If you’ve opted for a larger variety of pumpkin, train the shoots using wire to help them grow. If you find you have a number of fruits on the plant, remove a few of them before they develop, this will help the plant focus its energy on the remaining pumpkins resulting in much bigger specimens. Preventing Rot One of the most important factors when it comes to growing pumpkins is to prevent them from rotting as they grow larger. To avoid rot, place the pumpkins on a plank of wood or a few bricks – this will protect them from moisture sitting on the ground and allow them to reach their maximum size. I would also recommend removing any leaves that cover the pumpkin fruits so they can access as much light as possible – I find this helps them to mature. “I like to grow my pumpkins through a strong trellis laid flat and elevated above the ground by some bricks,” Dan adds. “The plant grows through the trellis, it is easy to water and the pumpkin sits on the trellis rather than the ground, helping to prevent rot.” Common Problems Pumpkins are rather resilient so you will rarely run into problems with them – the main thing to watch out for is powdery mildew. Powdery mildew presents itself with a white, powdery deposit on the leaves and, if left unattended, will cause the leaves to wilt. Thankfully the solution is simple: keep the soil moist around the plants (being careful to avoid wetting the leaves of the plant) and you shouldn’t run into this issue. “Don’t be afraid to remove a few leaves if you think it will increase airflow, as this will also help reduce mildew and potential rots,” says Dan. Harvesting & Storage Pumpkins are brilliant at letting you know when it’s time to harvest them. Leave them on their stem as long as possible, once ripe their skin will harden, and they will crack away from their stems, letting you know they are good to go! Pumpkins can be stored for up to six months, just take care to keep them in a cool, well-ventilated space. “Some of the more popular varieties for Halloween lanterns can rot quickly if left in a warm kitchen, so don’t bring them in too soon if you want to avoid an early horror show,” Dan shares. With so many varieties to choose from, you will have no trouble finding the perfect pumpkins for you. References 1. Reilly, L. (2015, October 28). Pumpkin’s surprising origin. BBC Travel. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20151027-pumpkins-surprising-origin 2. Pumpkin History. (n.d.). University of Illinois Extension. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://web.extension.illinois.edu/pumpkins/history.cfm 3. Estadt, M. (n.d.). Growing Giant Pumpkins in the Home Garden. Ohio State University Extension. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-1646
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You Can’t Go Far Wrong With Moneymaker Tomatoes - How To Grow And Care For Them
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Moneymaker Tomatoes Plant Care Harvesting Moneymakers Common Problems ‘Moneymaker’ are a popular type of bright, juicy tomato grown in many areas of the UK. This variety is a popular one to grow, although this is more thanks to its reliability and ease of growing than its taste which, while good, arguably doesn’t compete with some other tomato varieties. If you’re looking for an easy-to-grow tomato, however, you can’t go far wrong with ‘Moneymaker’. You’ll enjoy a hassle-free growing experience, and typically a more bountiful harvest than you might otherwise expect. Overview Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum ‘Moneymaker’ Common Name(s) Moneymaker Tomatoes Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Tomato vines Flowers Yellow When To Sow (Indoors) January, February, March, April, May Plant Out June Flowering Months June to September Moneymakers are cordon-type tomatoes, meaning they require pruning to encourage optimum growth. It’s an annual, meaning the plant will die in winter and require new sowing for next year, but it’s quick and easy to grow from readily-available seeds, so this shouldn’t present too much of a setback. If you’re looking for oval-shaped tomatoes, or ones in exciting colours like green, yellow, orange, and purple, you’ll need to look elsewhere. How To Grow Moneymaker Tomatoes I grew Moneymaker tomatoes earlier this year – initially by propagating from seed in February using a heated propagator, then by planting out in May into the raised beds in my back garden. I found them to be generally quite easy to grow from seed – including being low maintenance and high-yielding. See some of my results (including some images of my ripened tomatoes) below: Growing From Seed For best results, you’ll want to sow your ‘Moneymaker’ seeds indoors and harden off the young plants before planting them out. You can plant seeds outdoors, but it’s not optimal. I definitely found that the 2-3 month extension in growing time (through indoors propagation) resulted in much greater growth and a higher yield than I would have expected growing outdoors. In late February or early March, sow your ‘Moneymaker’ seeds in pots. Then, in mid-April, pot up the young plants and continue to grow indoors. Seedlings are ready for potting up when there are two pairs of leaves. Harden them off in early May, before planting outdoors in mid-May. This should ensure your plants are strong enough to hold their own against the elements, and minimises any risk of frost exposure. In the year just gone I waited a little later to plant out (until the end of May) and ultimately felt that I should have taken the plunge sooner. For sowing, use free-draining seed-sowing soil, with a thin layer of compost on top. When growing from seed you should see sprouts within one to two weeks. Where To Grow This variety of tomato will do best in a spot that gets a lot of sunlight, ideally six hours or more per day, with well-drained soil. Although the seeds are small, factor in a full-sized tomato plant when spacing them out. This means leaving about a 90cm gap between plants in each direction. You can also grow Moneymaker tomatoes in a greenhouse. If you’re doing this, you can plant out a little earlier – around early April – because the greenhouse will protect against the cooler outdoor conditions. Plant Care Support Moneymakers grow to be quite large, so supporting them with a stake is a good way to encourage strong growth. Simply push a stake around 180cm high into the ground, with 25-30cm below the soil – place this about 30cm behind each plant. As the young plant grows, use string to gently tie the stem onto the stake. Avoid tight knots as they can suffocate the plant and restrict ongoing growth. Feeding To provide nourishment to your fledgling tomatoes and help the soil to retain moisture, apply 3-5cm of mulch around the plants. You should also apply some high Potassium fertiliser fortnightly once fruits begin to appear. This ensures optimal nutrition and plump, juicy fruits – leave about 15cm clear in all directions from the plant stem when fertilising, to avoid stifling growth. Watering Water your seedlings as soon as you’ve planted them, so that ~15cm of topsoil is moist. Water a couple of times a week when the top 3cm of soil feels dry. Tomatoes are fairly thirsty, and will require weekly watering throughout the growing season. Pruning Another way to encourage an optimal amount of fruit from your tomato plant is to cut off any shoots that start growing between the main stem and the smaller leaf stems. Also remove any vertical growth beyond 6 or 7 fruit-bearing trusses. Although it may seem counterintuitive to deliberately curtail growth, you’ll be helping the plant to allocate its resources and energy to developing the healthiest and tastiest fruits on its main stems. Harvesting Moneymakers Your plant should be ready to harvest between July and September, depending on when you planted it out and the exact conditions where you live. You’ll be able to tell when they’re ready: the fruits will be big, juicy, and tempting. Here are the ones I grew when they were finally ready to harvest: Harvesting is simply a case of picking the tomatoes and storing them indoors. Regular harvesting increases the likelihood of further fruiting during a season, too. Common Problems There are a few pests who are keen to get at tomatoes. Aphids The little sap-suckers love to feed on plants of all shapes and sizes, with a particular proclivity to choose the ones we value most. It’s not unusual to see aphids feasting on Moneymaker tomatoes, and the first step is vigilance. If you notice the green visitors, try first to remove them by hand and discourage further visits. If this doesn’t work, you can try to introduce predator bugs like ladybirds. Blight Moneymakers are a common victim of blight, which makes itself known through brown spots and rings on the plant’s leaves. “Tomato blight can be tragic: watching plants rapidly succumb to dark blotching and knowing there’s no further action possible other than the destruction of the plant,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Once infected, the only viable course of action to prevent further damage is to destroy the plant. This will stop blight spreading to surrounding plants and, while losing an entire plant is upsetting, it’s preferable to losing all of them. “I have found that growing plants in a rain shadow, against a sunny wall where rain rarely lands directly on the leaves, helps enormously,” adds Peter. “It does increase the watering work, but it gives you control over moisture. This, in turn, helps prevent fruit splitting and blossom end rot, which are products of erratic rainfall.” These fruits are tasty, easy to grow, and capable of producing multiple sets of fruit each season – what more could you ask for! You should now be ready to order some seeds, grab a few stakes, and get your tomato harvest started. Happy harvesting!
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