Growing
12 Edible Climbing Plants For Fences With Kitchen Gardener Stephanie Hafferty
IN THIS GUIDE Annual Climbers 1) Squashes, Pumpkins & Cucumbers 2) Climbing Beans 3) Garden Peas 4) Hyacinth Beans 5) Nasturtiums Perennial Climbers 6) Hardy Kiwi ‘Issai’ 7) Potato Beans 8) Hops 9) Blue Passion Flower 10) Fruiting Currants 11) Berries 12) Grapes ‘Brant’ Whenever we are choosing plants for our gardens, it is important to choose the right plants for the right places. We need to think about which plants will thrive in our particular gardens, in the environmental conditions that we and nature provide in a particular spot. When choosing climbing plants for fences, the decision-making process should be no different. There are also other things, of course, that we should bear in mind when choosing climbing plants for any situation. For one thing, we need to consider whether or not the fence in question is tall and sturdy enough to support the growth of the climbers or vines we are considering. Secondly, we should think about what else a particular climber for a fence might be able to provide to us. We should think about what we want the plant to achieve in the garden and also, potentially, what yields it might provide. Personally, when I pick climbing plants to grace a fence, I often think first about edible options – because when we choose a climbing plant that can provide edible yields, we can have a productive garden as well as a beautiful one. “I love to grow edibles and grow a huge range of different edible plants from salad leaves to fruit trees,” shares Stephanie Hafferty, an Organic Gardener and Author. “My favourite is always whatever is the new taste that week, such as the first peas in spring or the first taste of a fresh raspberry pulled from the garden.” To help you create your own edible garden paradise, here are some edible climbing plants to consider. You can also paint the fence in between your plantings! Annual Climbers First of all, if you have a fence and are looking for climbing plants that will be welcome additions to your garden during the summer months, looking at annual climbers may be a good idea. These will all thrive in a sunny spot, so a south-facing fence could be ideal for their growth. They will not last more than a single season in your garden but can add a lot and provide you with a prodigious quantity of food. Choosing annuals for summer growing against a sunny fence can be a good idea if the fence is not particularly sturdy or would not be suitable for more vigorous and bigger perennial plants, which cover it constantly year in and year out. 1) Squashes, Pumpkins & Cucumbers BOTANICAL NAME: Cucurbita spp. HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer First of all you might consider the numerous squash, pumpkin and cucumber options within the Cucurbitaceae plant family. There are many edible options that you might grow on supports against a fence and this can be one great way to make the most of every inch of space in your garden for sustainable food production. With certain fences, the fence itself might be the support structure for these annual climbers. In other cases, you might affix support wires or trellis structures to the fence to support the plants. In either case, these plants can look good and be productive when cared for correctly in your garden, but do bear in mind that fruit can be very heavy. 2) Climbing Beans BOTANICAL NAME: Phaseolus ssp. HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: purple, white, red, yellow and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Another option that could be great for a sunny fence is climbing beans. There is a wide range of different climbing beans in the Phaseolus genus that you might consider, including many cultivars of Phaseolus vulgaris. You might also consider growing runner beans (P. coccineus), which is another great and very productive option for UK gardens that can also be extremely attractive, producing scarlet flowers over the summer months. 3) Garden Peas BOTANICAL NAME: Pisum sativum HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: white, pink or purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Another annual climbing plant you might consider placing up against a sunny fence is the common garden pea. Peas can be grown up a fence or a trellis structure and will grasp on with tendrils to support themselves. If you have never grown your own peas before, then you will be amazed by just how sweet they can be when you pick them straight from your garden. 4) Hyacinth Beans BOTANICAL NAME: Lablab purpureus HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERS: purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Another edible climber which is ornamental and productive is the hyacinth bean. This is a perennial climber, but it is tender and is therefore commonly grown as a summer annual in cooler climates like here in the British Isles. It produces pea-like flowers amid dark green leaves which are followed by edible green pods that are often flushed with a purplish hue. Fast-growing and twining, it will grow well in full sun on a sheltered south or west-facing fence, in moist but well-drained soil. 5) Nasturtiums BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum spp. HARDINESS RATING: H2-H5 FLOWERS: orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Another annual climber with great edible potential is the nasturtium. The plant has edible leaves and flowers which are great in salads. The flower buds can also be used like capers. Choose a nasturtium and you can enjoy blooms to pick within the garden space for a long period over the growing season. There are several different nasturtiums that will climb happily against a fence. Perennial Climbers Of course, if you do not wish to sow climbers anew each year to cover your fence or if the site is a little too shaded for annual production, then there are plenty of perennial climbers that you might consider. Make sure that your fence is well-constructed and sturdy enough for the plants in question when choosing a perennial. Perennial plants will come back each year and are a sustainable choice. In the right spot, these plants can also potentially provide you with a lot of food, as well as cover a fence in your garden. Here are some edible perennial climbers for fences that you might consider. 6) Hardy Kiwi ‘Issai’ BOTANICAL NAME: Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer The hardy kiwi is an attractive deciduous climber which can work well in a sheltered and sunny position, providing fruits and visual appeal when grown against a fence. A compact and self-fertile option (meaning that you do not need to grow both male and female plants), ‘Issai’ is a great choice for UK gardens. This plant grows best in fertile and moist but well-drained soil, which is neutral to acidic, in full sun and with shelter from the winds. 7) Potato Beans BOTANICAL NAME: Apios americana HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: red and brown FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn This is another interesting perennial edible climber to consider. It is the tubers of the plant that are edible, forming below the slender vines with scented flowers borne in the late summer and autumn. The flowers are pea-like in form and reddish-brown in colour. Grow these climbers, which can reach over 2.5m in height, in moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. They are H6 hardy and should come back each year over a number of seasons. “Do not confuse this plant with the potato vine, Solanum laxum or Solanum jasminoides, which are poisonous,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. 8) Hops BOTANICAL NAME: Humulus lupulus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This is another interesting herbaceous climbing plant to consider for a fence. It will die back to the ground each winter but grow tall again the following year. This vigorous climber can grow very tall in the right location and is traditionally used in making beer. Grow hops in moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade on a fence with a south or west-facing aspect. The location should be sheltered and care should be taken that the soil does not dry out too much, especially in a sunnier spot. 9) Blue Passion Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Passiflora caerulea HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: blue, white and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Blue passionflowers can, in the right location (which is mild and sheltered enough), be an evergreen, retaining their leaves year-round. However, it will require a very mild location here and will lose its leaves in many parts of the country if not moved undercover in winter. The flowers are dramatic and look wonderful against a sunny fence in many gardens, and there is also the added bonus of edible fruits if all goes well. 10) Fruiting Currants BOTANICAL NAME: Ribes spp. HARDINESS RATING: H5-H6 FLOWERS: yellow, green, pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Another option that you might not have considered is that, rather than growing an edible climber on a fence, you might be able to train fruit bushes up and against it. If you are looking for fruit bushes then some of your best options are in the Ribes family. You might grow red or white currants, blackcurrants or gooseberries. “I would recommend the Jostaberry, which has impressively sized fruit, with the best qualities of both blackcurrants and gooseberries,” shares Peter. These can all be great options for covering a fence, as well as great options for a food-producing garden. 11) Berries BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus spp. HARDINESS RATING: H5-H6 FLOWERS: yellow, white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Other marvellous soft fruits to grow in your garden are, of course, those in the Rubus genus, especially raspberries, blackberries and hybrid berries like boysenberries or tayberries. “Personally, I find tayberries to have the best taste and a vigorous habit,” Peter says. These cane fruits might also be trained to grow against a fence in your garden. There are plenty of great cultivars to consider, including thornless varieties, and a sturdy and strong enough fence with support wires could be sufficient to support the weight of these large and productive plants. 12) Grapes ‘Brant’ BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis ‘Brant’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: green FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Last but certainly not least, you should not overlook one of the most obvious edible vines – grapes. There are grape varieties that can grow outside in the UK and you might potentially train the variety ‘Brant’ to grow up a sturdy fence in a garden. Of course, if you’re growing grapes up a fence, you will need to make sure that it is in as mild, sheltered and sunny a spot as possible, with fertile and moist yet free-draining soil conditions. There are many other climbing plants for fences, depending on what type of fence we are talking about and where it is located. However, considering edible options could be a good place to begin to offer something extra in the garden.
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Hops Should Be Harvested At Just The Right Time Depending On Their Use - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Why Harvest Hops? When To Harvest Hops The Harvesting Process Storing Harvested Hops References Hops are climbers of hedgerows and sunny woodland edges that grow throughout much of the UK. They have been used for hundreds of years in brewing beer and also have several other applications that make them an enduring favourite among many growers. Whether you harvest hops that you have grown in your own garden or are looking to harvest plants growing wild in your area, there are certain things that you will need to know. I list all of the most important considerations for harvesting below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Secateurs, gardening gloves When To Harvest Early autumn Why Harvest Hops? Hops are harvested for a range of different reasons. You might harvest the young leaves and shoots early in the season for cooking, as they are said to have a delicious flavour. The young leaves may be eaten in salads and the fleshy rhizomes of hops are also sometimes harvested and eaten.1 Additional uses also include a brown dye which can be derived from the leaves and flower heads and plant fibres which are taken from the stems and used to make a coarse fabric or paper.2 However, the main reason for harvesting Humulus lupulus is for the dried flower heads which are used to brew beer and make tea.3 When To Harvest Hops If the young leaves and shoots are to be eaten, these should be harvested before the end of May. The main harvest of the cones should wait until the end of summer or early autumn, once they have had the chance to dry a little on the vine, as Mike Barker from Essentially Hops explains: “Harvest hops for decoration when they look their best, which is usually the end of August, beginning of September,” says Mike. Not all of the cones will ripen at exactly the same time, so you can harvest over a longer period in order to maximise yields. However, most of the time, hop vines are cut when most of the cones on them are ready to harvest. When the time comes to harvest hop cones, they should feel light, firm and slightly sticky to the touch. If they are still damp and squashy, they are not yet ready to harvest. They should be a lighter green than they were earlier in the year. A ripe cone will also leave a yellowish residue on your fingers when handled. “Hops for brewing need the cones to have matured,” explains Mike. “When pressed, the cone should be quite firm and when the cone is split, the seed should be a dark colour. “The longer hops are left on the plant the better, but if they’re left too long, they will blow away when dried or the colour will deteriorate, particularly in the wind and rain.” Another way to tell when hop cones are ready is by smelling them. The odour of the cones will alter from a grass-like fragrance to one that is more distinctive and aromatic. The Harvesting Process Once a good number of cones are ready to harvest, these can simply be plucked from the vine. However, since hops can grow too high to reach, the plants are usually chopped to the ground and the cones are then retrieved from the felled vine. Even though they will have dried partly on the vine, the hop cones then need to be dried fully once harvested or they will rot. They should be left on the vine and hung up to dry in a dark, well-ventilated space in order to allow moisture to escape from them. “Hang them straight up in the location you want and just let them dry in situ,” says Mike. It is important to make sure that the moisture leaves the hop cones or they can very quickly begin to rot. If the humidity is high, you can also dry the cones on very low heat (less than 60°C) in an oven or in an electric dehydrator. Storing Harvested Hops “Hops should be dried and then conditioned to a final moisture content of 8-10%,” shares Mike. “Drying hops is an art form which will vary with every different drying system. “Amateur growers and dryers may not require the hops to be compacted into bales or pockets, which is what is done by commercial dryers to reduce bulk.” However, at home, this is not generally a stage that we need to be concerned with. You can store the hops that you have harvested and dried simply by placing them into an airtight bag or other container and putting them into the freezer until you wish to use them. In a sealed container in the freezer, the hops should remain fresh for a year or even more. “A note of caution to parents and pet owners, when drying and storing hops, keep them out of reach from these often curious nibblers, although they should be fine to brush against in storage and in the garden,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. The basic outline above should help you to understand the basics of hop harvests and how to successfully use any hops that you grow in your garden. References 1. Humulus lupulus. (n.d.-b). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved April 27, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/User/plant.aspx?LatinName=Humulus+lupulus 2. Calabretta, A. (2020, December 10). A Thread Of Sustainability. Textile World. Retrieved April 27, 2023, from https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/features/2020/12/a-thread-of-sustainability/ 3. Goldman, J. (2016, August 19). Use Hops Tea to Enhance Flavors in Your Beer. Craft Beer & Brewing. Retrieved April 27, 2023, from https://beerandbrewing.com/use-hops-tea-to-enhance-flavors-in-your-beer/
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Exploring 15 Types Of Hops With The Owner Of This Canterbury Hops Nursery
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. lupulus ‘Amarillo’ 2) H. lupulus ‘Aureus’ 3) H. lupulus ‘Billbo’ 4) H. lupulus ‘Centennial’ 5) H. lupulus ‘Citra’ 6) H. lupulus ‘Comet’ 7) H. lupulus ‘Gimli’ 8) H. lupulus ‘Golden Tassels’ 9) H. lupulus ‘Hallertauer Magnum’ 10) H. lupulus ‘Hallertauer Mittelfruh’ 11) H. lupulus ‘Hersbrucker’ 12) H. lupulus ‘Northern Brewer’ 13) H. lupulus ‘Nugget’ 14) H. lupulus ‘Prima Donna’ 15) H. lupulus ‘Target’ References Hops, Humulus lupulus, have a long history of use in brewing beer and also provide a number of other minor yields in addition to the dried flower heads they produce. If you are thinking about growing hops where you live, you might be wondering which specific variety to grow. When choosing a cultivar, it is important to think about what you will be using the plants for, both in the garden and after it’s been harvested. If you are using your hops for brewing beer, then there are many complexities surrounding their bitterness, flavour and aroma profiles. Sometimes, you may be looking to grow hops for their aesthetic appeal rather than for any yields that you can derive from them. You should also think about how large the hops variety you are considering will grow. Some will grow only to a smaller size and these dwarf options can often be better choices for a smaller garden and may even be grown in containers. We asked Mike Barker, a Partner at the specialist hops nursery Essentially Hops, what some of his personal favourite hop varieties are. “‘Cobb’ is one of our favourite varieties to grow and we are one of only 6 farms in the world that can grow them,” shares Mike. “This is an aroma hop used in ales and bitters that has a light spicy, earthy smell. “The hops tend to grow at the top of the bine which does make machine picking a challenge. “‘Challenger’, a dual-purpose hop with aroma and alpha acid elements, is another favourite. “It is high yielding, with hops all the way down the bine, and is known as a columnar hop because of its shape. “It also has beautiful dark green cones and is quite the looker!” With that said, here are some more of the most interesting options to consider – 1) H. lupulus ‘Amarillo’ COMMON NAME(S): amarillo hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow TYPICAL HEIGHT: 3-8m FLAVOUR: sweet citrus taste Hops for brewing are generally divided into those that have higher alpha-acid content (over 10%) and those that are below 10% in their alpha-acid content.1 Those in the former category are referred to as ‘bitter hops’, while those in the latter are referred to as ‘aroma hops’. This first option is one of the aroma hops, which are not only less bitter but which are also higher in essential oils. It has a moderate aroma and is sweet and fruity with some subtle spicy notes. 2) H. lupulus ‘Aureus’ COMMON NAME(S): golden hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow TYPICAL HEIGHT: 3-8m FLAVOUR: Lemony, grapefruit-like taste This is a decorative hop variety which has received an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. Golden hop, as it is named, has yellow leaves that are 15cm in length. The female flower clusters are greenish-yellow and are followed by attractive hops. As long as the soil remains moist, placing this variety in a sunny spot will generally produce the best leaf colour. However, like other hop varieties, it can also tolerate partial shade. “when asked what the best ornamental hop is, I always point people to ‘Aureus’ as its robust nature, yellow hops, and leaves make it stand out better than darker-leaved varieties,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. 3) H. lupulus ‘Billbo’ COMMON NAME(S): hop ‘billbo’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green TYPICAL HEIGHT: 5-9m FLAVOUR: sweet This is a unique hops variety that is very low in bitterness, which means that it is not necessarily a very good choice for beer brewing. However, it is a good choice if you are more interested in making tea with your crop. 4) H. lupulus ‘Centennial’ COMMON NAME(S): centennial hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green TYPICAL HEIGHT: 4.5-6m FLAVOUR: fruity and floral taste This variety, which is extremely popular in the United States, is an aromatic hop.2 It has an extremely evocative aroma with notes of earthy beetroot and berries mixed in with woody undertones. 5) H. lupulus ‘Citra’ COMMON NAME(S): citra hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow TYPICAL HEIGHT: 4-8m FLAVOUR: tropical fruit taste A high-value hop variety, this is another aromatic hop which has a varied, rather fruity aroma, with hints of a range of different fruits, and a fresh and zesty scent. 6) H. lupulus ‘Comet’ COMMON NAME(S): hop ‘comet’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow TYPICAL HEIGHT: 3-8m FLAVOUR: grapefruit undertones ‘Comet’ is another unusual and distinctive variety of hop which has light green or yellow foliage and very large, conspicuous umbels of flowers. This hop could be a good choice if you are looking for one to add some ornamental interest to your garden, as well as to provide a yield. 7) H. lupulus ‘Gimli’ COMMON NAME(S): hop ‘gimli’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: white and green TYPICAL HEIGHT: 2-4m FLAVOUR: peppery taste If you are short on space, many of the hop varieties on this list may be too large for you to grow – ‘Gimli’ is the exception. Its vines grow just 4m or so in length and this smaller plant can even be grown in pots. Another good feature of this hop is that it is resistant to powdery mildew. 8) H. lupulus ‘Golden Tassels’ COMMON NAME(S): hop ‘golden tassels’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green TYPICAL HEIGHT: 1.5-3m FLAVOUR: mild This is a dwarf and female variety of hop that has lovely golden-green foliage and attractive hops. It is often considered to be a good choice for covering a pergola or arch structure in a garden. ‘Golden Tassels’ can also be a good cultivar to consider for inclusion in a wildlife-friendly hedgerow to attract butterflies, moths and a range of other beneficial creatures to your space. 9) H. lupulus ‘Hallertauer Magnum’ COMMON NAME(S): magnum hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow TYPICAL HEIGHT: 3-8m FLAVOUR: subtle citrus taste A dark or bitter hop variety, this option is very high in bitter constituents. It grows strongly in the right environment with plenty of vigour and also has extremely large umbels and leaves, hence the latter part of its name. 10) H. lupulus ‘Hallertauer Mittelfruh’ COMMON NAME(S): hallertauer mittelfruh hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green TYPICAL HEIGHT: 4-8m FLAVOUR: flowery taste with a slight spice This is an older variety that is still widely cultivated and extremely popular with home growers and some commercial growers too. It is an aromatic hop with large, dark green leaves, a pleasing form and growth habit to the eye and, of course, a delightful aroma. 11) H. lupulus ‘Hersbrucker’ COMMON NAME(S): hop ‘hersbrucker’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green TYPICAL HEIGHT: 3-8m FLAVOUR: spicy and fruity taste Another traditional hop variety, this option has a pleasing aroma and is known for a distinct spicy note that creeps into the scent of the hops. This is another hop that is relatively low in bitterness. 12) H. lupulus ‘Northern Brewer’ COMMON NAME(S): hop ‘northern brewer’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow TYPICAL HEIGHT: 3-6m FLAVOUR: minty undertones Though this dark hop variety is somewhat less productive than many other options on this list, it can be a better choice for more northern gardeners. This is because the cones will ripen early, making it a good choice for those limited by a shorter growing season. It is also high in bitterness which can be useful for brewing beer. 13) H. lupulus ‘Nugget’ COMMON NAME(S): hop ‘nugget’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green TYPICAL HEIGHT: 3-8m FLAVOUR: mild With high yields and strong growth, this option can be hardy, tough and capable of withstanding a range of soil conditions. However, while it is prized for its bitterness, this variety can be very susceptible to disease in comparison to the others on this list. 14) H. lupulus ‘Prima Donna’ COMMON NAME(S): hop ‘prima donna’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green TYPICAL HEIGHT: 2-4m FLAVOUR: orange, citrusy taste Another dwarf hops variety that grows only around 3m long, this option has leaves that start out green before turning more yellow in colour as the season progresses. The greenish-yellow female flower clusters are produced in profusion in summer and are followed in autumn by aromatic hops. 15) H. lupulus ‘Target’ COMMON NAME(S): target hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow TYPICAL HEIGHT: 3-8m FLAVOUR: sage undertones Like ‘Nugget’, ‘Target’ does not make great demands on the soil in which it is grown and is fairly hardy. This is an attractive cultivar with closed umbels and it is less susceptible to powdery mildew than some varieties. References 1. The Oxford Companion to Beer Definition of alpha acids. (n.d.). Craft Beer & Brewing. Retrieved May 18, 2023, from https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/0Mo49i2N1B/ 2. Your Guide to the Most Popular Beer Hops in the USA. (2020, May 7). Craft Beer Club. Retrieved April 27, 2023, from https://craftbeerclub.com/blog/post/your-guide-to-the-most-popular-beer-hops-in-the-usa
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6 Issues That Often Arise When Growing Clematis, According To Specialist Growers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Shoots Wilting & Dying Back 2) Stems Emitting A Stinky Ooze 3) Leaves Coated With Grey Growth 4) Leaves With Holes In Them 5) Leaves Curled & Sticky 6) Failing To Flower References Clematis are popular climbers that can find a place in many UK gardens. They can often be the right plants for the right places and thrive in our climate and most different conditions that we can provide. However, certain growing problems can arise – and troubleshooting those problems will usually require observation skills; then trying to work out the root causes in order to fix them. We take a look at some of the most common symptoms of issues that can arise when growing Clematis, including: Shoots wilting and dying back. Stems emitting a stinky ooze. Leaves coated with grey-white growth. Leaves with holes forming in them. Leaves becoming curled and sticky. Your plant failing to flower. If you have encountered one or more of the issues above, read on to learn more. 1) Shoots Wilting & Dying Back Sometimes, slugs and snails may feed on clematis stems, leaving them weak, pale and silvery in hue. Young shoots may be damaged enough to wilt and die back. Unfortunately, shoots that are wilting and dying back at the tips could also be a sign of a much more serious problem. These symptoms can denote a problem with the roots and could be caused by diseases such as Phytophthora root rot or honey fungus. In container plants, roots may be damaged by vine weevil grubs. Overwatering or waterlogging due to using too large a container or having poor drainage can also lead to roots rotting. Sometimes, a clematis may also have shoots that wilt and die back at the tips when the soil or growing medium is too dry and hot. “Although they love sunny conditions, consider sheltering their roots with a tile or other planting and remember that establishing Clematis are thirsty plants,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. With large-flowered clematis hybrids, a fungal disease called clematis wilt could also be the problem. However, don’t jump to the conclusion that this is what it is before you have ruled out the other potential issues above, as many species of clematis are resistant to clematis wilt.1 2) Stems Emitting A Stinky Ooze If one of the stems of a clematis plant has died back and a stinky ooze is coming from it, this is likely a problem called clematis slime flux.2 This is a bacterial disease that can be fatal but, fortunately, it is possible to save the plant by pruning out the affected area. Early signs of this problem include yellowing and wilting leaves in spring and early summer, often just on a part of the plant. Occasionally, the clematis might fail to leaf out in the spring altogether. The problem arises when a stem has been damaged and bacteria has got in. Protecting plants from cold winds can help avoid this issue. 3) Leaves Coated With Grey Growth One of the most common problems experienced when growing clematis is powdery mildew. This is a fungal problem which causes a whitish-grey, dusty coating to appear on leaves, stems and flowers. Powdery mildews affect a wide range of different plants, clematis included, and while a mild infection might not harm the plant too much, a severe one can dramatically restrict growth and vigour. “Powdery mildew can be an issue, especially in newly planted clematis,” shares Peter Skeggs-Gooch, the owner of Thorncroft Clematis & Climbers. “This strikes while the root can not sustain all of the top growth the plant has built up and can be rectified by pruning back the plant by as much as half and watering generously. “Add Epsom Salts to the water once every couple of weeks for 1 month to improve plant health.” As mentioned above, prune out affected shoots promptly to prevent the problem from spreading and clear up and dispose carefully of all fallen leaves to reduce the number of infectious spores in the vicinity. “Too much shade and poor airflow can exacerbate the problem, along with plants suffering stress for a variety of reasons – such as not enough room for their generous root system,” says Peter. 4) Leaves With Holes In Them If you find holes in the leaves of your clematis, then a number of insects can be to blame. Lots of different species feed on these plants, including slugs and snails, earwigs and a number of moth caterpillars. “I would say the most common problem is damage from slugs on the brand new shoots in the spring,” says Marcel Floyd, the Owner of Floyd’s Climbers and Clematis. If young leaves have torn edges and little, brown-edged holes, then you might have a problem with capsid bugs. Work on boosting biodiversity, as natural predation is generally the best way to deal with pests in any organic garden. 5) Leaves Curled & Sticky Curled and sticky leaves on clematis are most likely to be signs of an aphid infestation. The honeydew that these aphids excrete can also lead to sooty mould growth on your plants. Aphids in a garden are not a problem per se, but they can be problematic if their numbers get out of control. So, again, boost biodiversity and attract natural aphid predators, including ladybirds and blue tits, to your garden to keep everything in balance and aphid numbers under control. 6) Failing To Flower If a clematis fails to flower, this is typically due to some problem with the environmental conditions. Make sure that you have met the various environmental needs of the clematis you are growing. Generally, clematis needs moist but well-drained soil. They need to have their roots cool and shaded, but sun for the upper portions of the plant. Too much shade can inhibit growth and flowering, so make sure your clematis has enough light, but cool shade for its roots. “Young Clematis can be delicate, so I recommend keeping recently bought or propagated young plants in generous, but not overly large, pots until they have a few well-developed stems reaching at least 30-40cm,” advises Peter. “This allows them to be planted around 5cm deeper than their level in the pot, which aids establishment and is a unique trick to Clematis. “Planting them out at this stage helps them rise above dense borders – I have known them to simply be smothered and snuffed out by other plants if they’re not well established when planted.” If environmental issues are not to blame, the lack of blooms on a clematis might be due to improper pruning. Pruning at the wrong time might mean that you may have accidentally removed the part of the plant from which the flowers would usually grow. If the clematis is in a perfect spot and you have not pruned wrongly, nutrient deficiency might be to blame and you may need to delve deeper into the nutrient content of the soil in order to work out what your plant is possibly missing. There are, of course, other things that can go wrong when growing Clematis. However, looking at the issues above will often help you find the cause of any growing problems or issues. References 1. Clematis wilt / RHS Gardening. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved May 10, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/clematis-wilt 2. slime flux. (n.d.). Clematis on the Web. Retrieved May 10, 2023, from https://clematisontheweb.org/new-disease-slimeflux.cfm
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How To Train Wisteria Twice A Year: The Objective Is To Control Its Climbing
IN THIS GUIDE Support Structures For Wisteria Structural Considerations When & Where To Train Wisteria Choosing Fasteners To Use Training Wisteria Around Its Support Wisteria is often called Wisteria Vine because it is a vigorous grower and can climb rapidly. It ascends vertical structures by twining and spiralling around them with its strong stems. Where Wisteria is concerned, it is not so much a question of training it to climb because it climbs all too well by itself. Instead, the objective is to control its climbing by training it. Wisterias are usually divided into four classes; Japanese, Chinese, American and Downy or Silky. No matter which type you have, the essentials of training remain the same, as do the essentials of its lush beauty over the spring-summer season. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Fasteners; arbour, pergola or archway (optional) When To Train June to July and February to March Support Structures For Wisteria Although a Wisteria vine has to be trained, what exactly you are training it on is another important consideration. “We always recommend using good support, as with any wisteria, they start off small, but over time will grow quickly and gain weight with their twisted trunks,” says Chris O’Keefe, the owner of The London Wisteria Company. The usual and customary garden trellis might not be the best choice, as if it is too lightweight, sooner or later both Wisteria and trellis will come down. “Wisteria also needs space to hang, and a trellis lends itself to denser growing climbers, like Clematis,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Some ideal support structures for a Wisteria include an open framework for an arbour, a big pergola or an archway. A boundary wall or a pillar would work out, but it would be helpful if smooth, unbroken surfaces were first prepped to give the vine something to climb on. I recommend growing a Wisteria, especially a Japanese or Chinese type, against the wall of your dwelling. In any and all cases, the support structure must be very sturdy and properly anchored into the ground. These considerations are all the more important if you live in a windblown area. Structural Considerations To prep a smooth, unbroken surface, string horizontal lengths of wire, spaced apart vertically by about 30cm. “Depending on the surface, vine eyes can be screwed in at metre intervals and used to tension the wire,” shares Peter. Although you can use any wire for these robust vines, it is best to use smooth, PVC-coated or vinyl-coated wire. Installing wide, large-holed netting in front of a boundary wall will offer a convenient face for the vine to climb around. Another option is to mount plastic mesh fencing on the structure, particularly if it is a thick, broad pillar. A pole or a narrow pillar will not need any prepping; Wisteria will twine around these, but it is best if the pole is connected to something else, such as an arch, giving room for the flowers to hang. Netting or fencing only serves to get Wisteria started on its way. They are not meant to be permanent supports and sooner or later they may degrade and break up. By then, the Wisteria should not need them anymore. The reason is that the climber’s lower stems will have thickened and become woody, so the plant will have its own load-bearing support to a partial extent. Also, the upper branches will have ascended to the top of the real structure and, in going over it, will also provide support, as the climber will partially hang over and off the structure. Of course, if the support structure itself is trellis-like or has horizontal or vertical bars, then a Wisteria will have no trouble from the get-go as it will twine and coil around its elements. When & Where To Train Wisteria In general, a Wisteria should be transplanted 15-25cm from the support structure. The exact distance depends on the type of Wisteria and its ultimate size. After transplanting a Wisteria, do not prune it for at least a year; training too should be kept at a minimum during this time. Train Wisteria twice a year. The first phase would be as fresh growth emerges in spring, around February to April, and the second phase would be in the June-July timeframe, right after summer pruning. In the first phase, you will mainly be training young shoots and pruning to trim side-shoots into flowering spurs. In the second phase, you will mainly be pruning and training growing stems. “I like to treat wisteria almost like an espaliered fruit tree,” shares Peter. “I find this gives a really neat finish and allows some transparency if the brickwork or fence behind a wisteria is attractive too. “I space horizontal wires on either side of the main ‘trunk’ at 30cm intervals up the surface, such as a wall, fence or the sides of a pergola. “Select a single stem to branch at each level of wire, on either side, and shoots along the length of this stem can be pruned to 7 buds in July and 2 buds in February.” Choosing Fasteners To Use To train a Wisteria, fasteners are only required when the support structure has to be fronted with netting, as described above. If it consists of a lattice-like structure, bars or uprights, fasteners are not necessary, though they can still be useful. The best types of fasteners are high-quality commercial garden tie wire, garden twist ties or narrow fabric strips. “If you wish to grow your wisteria against a wall, I highly suggest using wire support,” Chris suggests. “This is a simple system which uses vine eyes which are drilled and then screwed into the wall or house brick. “We then secure rope wire which threads through the vine eyes before being tightened by a turnbuckle. “This system is quick and can take a lot of weight if the wisteria is trained correctly.” That said, Wisterias, notwithstanding their lovely and graceful form, are seriously strong plants. They do not need pampering and you can get away with using ordinary twist ties, provided that they are long and strong enough, and other types of ties, such as packing tape. Training Wisteria Around Its Support If a green shoot is anywhere close to the support structure that you want to train it into, simply grasp it between your fingers and twist it around the vertical a couple of times, then grasp it with part of the support structure. After, gently press it in place for a minute or so, being careful not to squeeze the growing tip. This is how I have sent shoots of twining climbers up pillars and posts and they have automatically further twined and coiled, growing and thickening over time. Chinese Wisterias twine counterclockwise and Japanese Wisterias clockwise, but if you ever need a clue, simply glance at the direction mature stems on the plant are twined and twirl the under-training shoot in the same direction. This method will not work for shoots that are very long and growing off to one side or that seem to have a mind of their own. For these, you will have to use fasteners. However, even shoots that are not exactly convenient can be trained without fasteners if the support structure has a lattice-like face. Thread these shoots through three or four holes while twining them around the rods and bars. Otherwise, simply position the shoot in the direction where you wish to train it and stick it to a structural element by twisting a tie around stem and element, or by attaching a loop of tape around it. Whatever fastener you use, it should be firmly fastened but should not cut into the shoot or press it against the element; leave a bit of space for the stem, as it will fill out. Unless you have other plans, your goal should be to coat the support structure in an even layer of twining stems for a pleasing appearance. So, in order to achieve that goal, if you see two or three healthy stems starting to twine too close, gently untwine one shoot, preferably the newer, looser one, and fasten it to a nearby bare part of the structure. As for overriding Wisteria decision-making, if, one fine morning, you spot a very fresh shoot twirling itself around a garden chair that is close by your pergola, you know what to do. Do keep in mind that training Wisteria goes hand-in-hand with pruning it, so for further particulars, please see our pruning guide.
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Why Does My Wisteria Not Flower? Grower Chris O'Keefe Answers All
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Still Immature 2) Not Yet Fully Established 3) Exposure To Adverse Conditions 4) Damaged By Frost 5) Located In Too Much Shade 6) Growing In Poor Soil With A Lack Of Nutrients 7) Incorrect Pruning Wisteria is a popular cottage garden climber that is known for its beautiful flowers. However, a wisteria may sometimes fail to flower at all. “The most common question I get asked is ‘why does my wisteria not flower?'” says Chris O’Keefe, the owner of The London Wisteria Company. “This could be for a number of reasons,” he admits, “most of which can be amended and controlled.” Some of the most common reasons for a wisteria failing to flower are: Your plant is still too immature. The wisteria is not yet fully established. Adverse conditions in the previous year have impacted the developing buds. Spring frosts have caused the buds to drop before opening. Insufficient sunlight by growing in too much shade. Poor soil and nutrient deficiencies, such as a lack of potassium. Improper pruning. Read on to discover which of these issues might be to blame for your wisteria failing to flower. 1) Still Immature If the wisteria in question has been grown from seed, it is important to note that you will usually have to wait a very long time for it to flower. It can take as long as 20 years in some cases and even then the results don’t necessarily live up to expectations. Because of this, the plant may not yet have reached the stage where it will flower well and reliably, so you may simply need to have more patience or purchase and plant a named cultivar that is more likely to flower quickly. 2) Not Yet Fully Established Even a named cultivar that has been purchased and planted might not flower well, if at all, for the first couple of years after it is planted into your garden. This is completely normal and, for a year or two after planting a wisteria, non-flowering is not necessarily something to be worried about. The plant should begin to flower well and settle down nicely once the roots are properly established in the planting location. 3) Exposure To Adverse Conditions If you have a wisteria that has flowered well in previous years, the issue is likely to be different to the possibilities above. You will need to think about what might have led to the plant developing an issue with flowering when it did not have one before. One of the most common reasons for non-flowering is that the plant experienced adverse conditions during the period between July and September of the year before. Often, the issue is dry soil and drought conditions, which can cause the buds to fail to form correctly and to drop off. It is very important to make sure that it gets enough water through the growing season, especially during this crucial time of the year. 4) Damaged By Frost Another issue that may have arisen to cause non-flowering in a particular year is spring frosts, which may have caused some damage to the wisteria buds before they opened or caused them to drop off before any flowers could properly form. Frosts can also potentially cause flowers to become distorted and can prevent the wisteria from flowering completely if all of the buds are lost. 5) Located In Too Much Shade Another reason that wisteria might fail to flower is due to a lack of sunlight. If a wisteria is positioned in too shaded a location, flowers are unlikely to form. It is always important when growing any plant to check the environmental conditions that it needs and check that those are met in the planting location. A less-than-optimal growing location can cause a range of different problems, including the flowers of wisteria failing to form. 6) Growing In Poor Soil With A Lack Of Nutrients Sometimes, non-flowering can be caused by poor soils or nutrient deficiencies. For example, wisteria may flower poorly if there is a shortage of potassium in the soil. Those who are gardening on poor soils should consider how to address a potential lack of potassium. This could include mulching with potassium-rich plant matter or by adding other organic soil amendments, such as wood ash, in moderation. 7) Incorrect Pruning Human error can also be the cause of a wisteria failing to flower. Pruning a wisteria in the early summer or pruning too heavily at the correct time can cause problems. “It might be necessary to prune wisteria harder if it has not had routine pruning,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In this case, flowering might take 2-3 years to resume to previous levels, but should return to consistent flowering once regularly pruned in late summer and in winter.” Wisteria is usually pruned twice each year, once in July or August and once in the winter, in January or February. This pruning is not strictly essential, but it will encourage free flowering and mean that you have a more regular display of blooms. Summer pruning allows light to reach young growth, improving the chances of flower buds forming successfully, whilst cutting back in winter restricts vegetative growth and encourages short, flowering spurs which make blooms more prolific. A wisteria that is as happy and healthy as can be is much more likely to flower well, so making sure that you pay attention to the overall health of the plant and caring for it correctly is important if you want to enjoy an abundance of beautiful blooms each year.
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20 Exceptional Evergreen Climbers With Options For Every Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Akebia quinata 2) Ceanothus americanus 3) Clematis armandii 4) C. cirrhosa 5) Cotoneaster 6) Euonymus fortunei 7) Garrya elliptica 8) Hedera colchica 9) H. helix 10) Holboellia latifolia 11) Hydrangea seemannii 12) Lonicera henryi var. subcoriacea 13) L. japonica 14) Muehlenbeckia complexa 15) Passiflora caerulea 16) Pileostegia viburnoides 17) Pyracantha 18) Solanum crispum 19) Stauntonia hexaphylla 20) Trachelospermum jasminoides References If you are looking for an evergreen climber for your garden then look no further, because I’ve compiled a list of 20 great options for you to consider. While not every option will necessarily suit every garden, situation and aspect, you should find something that will suit your needs below. 1) Akebia quinata COMMON NAME(S): chocolate vine / akebia HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH This rather unusual climber, also known as the chocolate vine, could be an evergreen climber option for warmer and more sheltered gardens in the British Isles. The exotic reddish-maroon flowers have a spicy fragrance and are most colourful when grown in a location in full sun. If the summer is particularly warm, then after the flowers can come large, sausage-shaped fruits. These fruits are edible, though with a rather insipid taste.1 The soft young shoots of the plants are also edible and are used in salads.2 2) Ceanothus americanus COMMON NAME(S): Indian tea / mountain sweet / wild snowball HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: sand or loam; any pH With stunning blue flowers that are occasionally pink or white, C. americanus offers several evergreen options for your garden. Though these are wall shrubs rather than climbers, they look wonderful trained against a wall or fence. There are options which bloom in spring, summer or autumn. One option, for example, is the AGM-winning variety ‘Cascade’, which, like other ceanothus, has beautiful blooms and looks lovely against a sunny and sheltered south-facing wall or fence. 3) Clematis armandii COMMON NAME(S): armand clematis HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; alkaline to neutral pH This large and vigorous evergreen climber is a clematis with star-like creamy flowers borne in the spring from March to April. These blooms have an almond-like fragrance. This is another option that will do well in full sun in a sheltered spot out of drying winds. This climber will also do best in a position with a south or west-facing aspect, in moist but well-drained soil. It can grow around 5m tall with a spread of around 3m once it reaches maturity if it is happy in the location in which it is positioned. 4) C. cirrhosa COMMON NAME(S): evergreen clematis HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH This clematis is also evergreen and grows to around 3m tall with a spread of up to 2.5m. The flowers it produces in late winter and early spring are around 6.5cm across and are a creamy yellow shade, sometimes with red mottles inside. These are then followed by silky seed heads that are also extremely ornamental. This is another climber that prefers a position in full sun, with a south or west-facing aspect. It will flower best in a position that is as warm and sheltered as possible. In colder areas, it might also be grown in a container and overwintered undercover. 5) Cotoneaster COMMON NAME(S): cotoneaster HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Though cotoneasters are not truly climbers, a number of species can be coaxed to cover walls or fences and can look lovely when pinned into place and enticed to do so. C. horizontalis is the species that is most commonly used for this purpose, but this can be an invasive plant, so opting for a different cotoneaster could be a better choice. For example, you might consider the AGM awarded C. conspicuus ‘Decorus’, also known as the Tibetan cotoneaster, which is also suitable as a wall shrub. “Cotoneaster looks great trained vertically and forms a tight structure with its branches,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “They may lose most of their leaves by the end of the winter but will quickly return in spring. “Their flowers are a valuable resource for pollinators early in the season but its red berries are also popular with birds in autumn.” 6) Euonymus fortunei COMMON NAME(S): spindle / winter creeper HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH These extremely popular evergreen shrubs are climbing if planted against a wall and are a popular choice for year-round colour and appeal in UK gardens. There are several different cultivars to choose from, including popular variegated varieties such as ‘Emerald Gaiety’ and ‘Silver Queen’. Plant these Euonymus in full sun or, better yet, partial shade, in moist but well-drained soil and you will find they make an excellent foliage plant year-round and nicely cover a wall or fence. 7) Garrya elliptica COMMON NAME(S): silk tassel bush / fever bush HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Also known as the silk tassel bush, this is an impressive wall shrub or small tree that can grow to 4.5m tall in milder gardens. The leaves are a dark green on top and felted grey underneath. Long, greyish-green catkins appear in January and February, bringing interest early in the year. Plant this against a wall with any aspect, in full sun or partial shade. However, make sure that the soil is well-drained, as even though it is unfussy about certain things, this plant cannot cope with waterlogged soil. 8) Hedera colchica COMMON NAME(S): Persian ivy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Persian ivy is a self-clinging climber that is extremely vigorous and can spread over a large area. It has dark green leathery leaves that are up to 20cm in length and small yellowish-green flowers that are followed by black berries. This type of ivy can grow in a range of conditions, but will thrive especially in a humus-rich and fertile alkaline soil. It can be a versatile option, growing well in anything from full sun to deep shade. Just make sure that you grow it in a place where it will not damage the materials on which it grows. 9) H. helix COMMON NAME(S): common ivy / ivory / bindwood HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Another ivy, of course, is common ivy, also known as English ivy. This is another vigorous and self-clinging climber with glossy evergreen leaves. Often, those leaves have pale, white veins and they may also have autumn colour or variegation. Once mature, plants can cover extremely large areas and bushy, non-clinging branches will be produced, which have diamond leaves and flower clusters of greenish-yellow flowers that are followed by autumn berries. 10) Holboellia latifolia COMMON NAME(S): broad-leaved sausage vine HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH A more unusual and perhaps less familiar evergreen climber is the broad-leaved sausage vine. Vigorous and quick when climbing over walls or fences with its glossy green leaves, sometimes tinged purple-bronze in new growth, it can produce fragrant flowers in spring. The flowers are made up of greenish-white males and purplish females, all with an elongated sausage-like shape. This can be grown on a wall with any aspect, even in the deep, cool shade, but they will not produce flowers successfully without some sun. 11) Hydrangea seemannii COMMON NAME(S): seemann’s hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: clay, loam, sand; any pH A woody evergreen wall shrub with aerial roots and thick, leathery leaves around 15cm long, this climbing hydrangea bears attractive white flowers and bracts with domed heads in the summer. Though these climbers will tolerate only a few degrees of frost, they can cope in many UK gardens, as long as the soil is well-drained and has plenty of well-rotted organic matter. 12) Lonicera henryi var. subcoriacea COMMON NAME(S): Henry’s honeysuckle HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH This vigorous honeysuckle can grow up to 8 metres long. It has dark green lanceolate leaves and red and yellow tubular flowers which are borne in the summer months and are followed by black berries. It will grow in full sun but will do best in partial shade when it is provided with an east, north or west-facing aspect. This climber requires fertile and well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. 13) L. japonica COMMON NAME(S): Japanese honeysuckle / gold and silver flower HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: clay or loam; any pH Another evergreen honeysuckle, Japanese honeysuckle is even more vigorous and large, growing to around 10m in height. It has dark green leaves up to around 8cm long and bears its blooms over a long period from spring to late summer. The flowers are very fragrant, white, ageing to yellow and purple flushed, and are followed by bluish-black ornamental berries. Again, this climber grows best in part shade, but can tolerate full sun as long as the soil is moist but free-draining and fertile. 14) Muehlenbeckia complexa COMMON NAME(S): necklace vine / Australian ivy HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH Also known as ‘Necklace Vine’ or ‘Australian Maidenhair Vine’, this climber has small evergreen leaves that it can keep year-round in a suitably mild and sheltered position. Creating dense tangles of slender, wiry stems, the plant can spread up to 3m wide. Grow this climber in full sun or light shade with shelter from cold winds in moist but well-drained soil. This plant is H3 hardy, so is really only an option for year-round growing in a mild or a coastal part of the UK. 15) Passiflora caerulea COMMON NAME(S): blue passion flower / blue crown HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH Another option for milder gardens, or to bring undercover to overwinter indoors, is the blue passion flower. This is a very quick-growing and vigorous climber and care is required, as it may be too vigorous and even invasive in some locations. However, it is not only a dramatic and impressive ornamental with summer flowers but also bears edible fruits thereafter, so it could be well worth considering. It may only be semi-evergreen in some locations but can be fully so in milder areas. 16) Pileostegia viburnoides COMMON NAME(S): climbing hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH This is a slow-growing, self-clinging climber that can eventually reach 8m in height with a spread of 1.5m. It has narrow, oval leaves that are around 15cm long and bears panicles of small, white flowers in summer and into autumn. This is a versatile evergreen climber that can grow in full shade, partial shade or full sun. It can grow on a wall which has any aspect, as long as it does not get very cold and the soil is fertile and well-drained. 17) Pyracantha COMMON NAME(S): firethorn HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Pyracanthas can often make excellent evergreen wall shrubs to cover a wall or fence. They are well known for their pretty flowers and for the attractive red, orange or yellow berries they bear throughout autumn and winter. Pyracantha wall shrubs can be great choices for cities as they are tolerant of pollution. They work well in full sun or partial shade and moist but well-drained fertile soil. 18) Solanum crispum COMMON NAME(S): potato tree HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, clay, sand; alkaline to neutral pH This climbing shrub can also be evergreen or semi-evergreen in milder areas, though will lose its leaves in colder gardens. Large and vigorous, it has ovate leaves and fragrant purple flowers with yellow at the centre that are borne in summer in large, open clusters. This wall shrub will do best in moist but well-drained soil that has an alkaline or neutral pH. Grow it in full sun with shelter from cold and drying winds. An east or south-facing aspect is best. 19) Stauntonia hexaphylla COMMON NAME(S): stauntonia vine HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH Stauntonias are vigorous evergreen climbers that can also work well in milder UK gardens. This option bears fragrant pink flowers that are 2cm long, which can sometimes be followed by edible purplish fruits that grow to around 5cm across. Grow this climber in any aspect, in full sun or partial shade. Ensure the soil it grows in is well-drained and place it in a sheltered position that is as mild as possible, as this option is only H3 hardy. 20) Trachelospermum jasminoides COMMON NAME(S): star jasmine / Chinese ivy HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH Last but certainly not least, you might consider star jasmine. This evergreen climber is a favourite for milder gardens and also for conservatory or greenhouse cultivation, with dark green leaves that turn bronze in winter and white fragrant flowers that are borne from mid to late summer. It should be grown in well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade, with shelter and protection from cold, drying winds, or indoors in full light out of the direct sun. The options above are, of course, not your only choice, but if you are looking for evergreen climbers, then checking out those listed above is a great place to start. References 1. Akebia quinata. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/akebia-quinata/ 2. Akebia quinata. (n.d.-b). The Agroforestry Research Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.agroforestry.co.uk/product/akebia-quinata/
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Jasmine Grow Tips And Common Varieties - Star-Shaped Flowers And Intoxicating Aroma
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Jasmine Varieties Planting Jasmine Jasmine Plant Care References Prized for its delicate star-shaped flowers and intoxicating aroma, jasmine is a popular choice for gardeners across Britain. With summer and winter flowering types available, jasmine has climbing and shrub varieties too. Most jasmine blooms are pure white in colour, though there are cream and yellow blossoms in some varieties. Whatever the hue or cultivar, they generally exude a bewitching scent that pleases pollinators as much as it does people. Shrub forms of jasmine are great for growing as a hedge to bring some vibrancy and vivaciousness into your garden in the winter months. Meanwhile, climbers can be trained to scale trellises, fences or walls as an ornamental and olfactory delight. Overview Botanical Name Jasminum Common Name(s) Jasmine Plant Type Perennial / Climber / Shrub Native Area Tropical areas of Eurasia & Oceania Hardiness Rating Varies by type Foliage Deciduous Flowers Delicate, star-shaped flowers that are mostly white but sometimes cream or yellow When To Plant Varies When To Prune After flowering Hailing from the tropical regions of Eurasia and Oceania, most types of jasmine prefer warmer climes as a general rule.1 When growing these, it’s best to confine the plants to a conservatory or greenhouse to protect them from the worst ravages of the weather. However, there are summer and winter flowering species which cope well with the rigours of the British climate, which is why it’s a common sight in homes and gardens around the country. They look great as climbers adorning an external structure or as hedgerows and bushes, bringing wintry colour. As well as having hardy varieties available, there are also evergreen and deciduous types available. Select the cultivar that’s most appropriate for your specific needs. Common Jasmine Varieties As mentioned, there are a variety of different types of jasmine, each of which has its own levels of hardiness, growing habits and flowering seasons. The most widespread species in the UK include: Jasminum officinale Better known as common jasmine, this popular plant is a vigorous climber that can be trained up walls, trellises, archways and pergolas. In the summer months, its vines are awash with clusters of small white flowers which exude a stimulating perfume. J. nudiflorum This species is more commonly called winter jasmine, so there are no prizes for guessing when it flowers. It’s grown as a bush or hedge and carries unscented yellow flowers which burst forth brightly at the turn of the year. J. polyanthum Colloquially known as Chinese jasmine, this species doesn’t do well in colder climes. For that reason, it’s best grown as a houseplant, where its startling pink buds will transform into highly fragrant white blooms in late winter and spring. Planting Jasmine All types of jasmine appreciate fertile soil with good drainage, though they aren’t too fussed about the composition or pH levels. They usually prefer full sun but there are cultivars which will tolerate partial shade, so just check the instructions when buying. As a general rule, summer-flowering jasmines should be planted in spring or summer in a spot which is sheltered from the elements and receives plenty of sun. They’ll struggle if positioned in an exposed location that suffers from frost or extreme cold. By contrast, winter-flowering jasmines should be grown later in the year, in autumn or winter. Some species are fully hardy and can be grown as standalone bushes and shrubs, while others are extremely delicate and normally cannot deal with external conditions in the UK. Jasmine Plant Care Depending on the type of jasmine you opt for, more or less maintenance may be required. Vigorous climbers can exert quite a lot of force on the trellis, fence or other structure holding them, so make sure you use sturdy twine and supports. Watering & Feeding All varieties of jasmine will appreciate regular watering during their first year after planting. Those which are rooted in the ground don’t require irrigation thereafter, except during prolonged periods of heat or drought. However, they will benefit from the application of general-purpose fertilisers and high-potassium feeds. Meanwhile, potted specimens should still be watered regularly during the growing season, but you can ease off as winter sets in. Feed those in containers once a month with a fertiliser that has a high potassium content, such as that used for tomatoes. Overwintering The two most widespread types of jasmine, common jasmine and winter jasmine, are fully hardy and can be left to their own devices during the colder months. On the other hand, the majority of other jasmine cultivars are not hardy and should be brought indoors once night-time temperatures dip below 13°C. Be sure to leave them in a spot which doesn’t suffer from excessive cold, even indoors, or they can wilt and die. Pruning & Training It’s advisable to prune back all types of climbing jasmine vigorously and annually right after they have flowered. This will encourage plenty of new growth and stimulate more blossoms lower down on the vine, where their scent can reach your nostrils more readily. For bushy varieties, it’s also likely that you’ll need to prune them back to keep them in shape. These specimens can often become straggly, unruly and congested, so paring them back to restrict their spread is advisable when required. To prune, simply trace a flowering stem back to a side shoot lower down on the vine and make a clean cut. If stems are becoming overcrowded or damaged, thin them out too to ensure the plant retains its energies for those which will benefit from them most. “I quite often have to tackle jasmine plants that have got out of hand and become a huge tangle of intertwining stems,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “To restore order, cut back all stems to 40-60cm from the ground. This will mean that you will lose flowers for 2-3 years but this is a trade-off with regaining the space that was being occupied by the unruly jasmine. “As it regrows, remove some stems to retain only those that you will train.” Mulching Any jasmine grown in the ground will appreciate mulching once per year in autumn. Use organic matter or garden compost to retain moisture and repel weeds, applying a generous layer around the roots. Additionally, this will also help less hardy varieties stay insulated during winter. Just be sure to leave a gap between the stems and the mulch (around 7.5cm) to avoid root rot. Common Problems The biggest threat to outdoor plants is the cold and wet if dealing with non-hardy varieties. In general, jasmine doesn’t suffer from blight or pests, though you might find aphids feasting on new shoots. Plants grown indoors are more of a target for insects which feed on their sap, such as mealybugs and red spider mites. Check their leaves regularly for signs of an infestation and take the appropriate steps using organic pesticides to rid them of the issue. Propagating Jasmine plants which are grown outdoors should be propagated by taking hardwood cuttings in wintertime. Conversely, those grown indoors should be propagated from softwood or semi-ripe cuttings, which should be separated from the plant in spring or summer. All types of cuttings should be around 15cm long and taken directly below a strong leaf node and should be planted immediately. To do so, prepare their tips by dipping them into a rooting hormone, and then pushing the cutting into a nutrient-rich medium. They will require frequent misting to keep them moist for the first month or so and you should also insulate the planter in a plastic bag. After the roots have become established, you should transplant them to potting soil to allow them to establish themselves more fully. Shortly thereafter, you can relocate them to exterior soil. References 1. Jasminum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328128-2
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Mountain Clematis - A Vigorous Choice Ideal For Covering A Garden Structure
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Planting Mountain Clematis Clematis montana Care Common Problems References The most vigorous of climbers in all of the Clematis family, Clematis montana is an excellent choice for covering a fence, wall or other upright structure in foliage and flowers with minimum fuss. Not only do they grow extremely quickly, reaching more than ten metres in length if left unchecked, but they also flower profusely. “Asking yourself what you want a clematis to do is the most important question,” says Ken Black, the owner of Ken Black Clematis, a plant nursery that specialises in these beautiful climbers. “If you want one that is vigorous to cover a shed, garage, large wall or fence, a Montana will do this, and provide flowers in May.” This means that they’ll put on a beautiful show during the blooming months, with pink or white blossoms swarming their vines in a highly pleasing manner. They’re not just pretty faces, either. The subtle vanilla aroma which accompanies their appearance is as attractive to humans as it is to pollinators, so expect plenty of bees, birds and butterflies to descend on your garden as well. “If you want a scented clematis, then a Clematis montana might be the one for you,” says Fiona Woolfenden, the secretary of the International Clematis Society. “Buy these clematis when the plant is in flower so you can smell the scent or from a reputable nursery who says that the plant they have is scented.” Overview Botanical Name Clematis montana Common Name(s) Mountain Clematis / Himalayan Clematis / Anemone Clematis Plant Type Perennial / Climber Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Abundant single or double white or pink flowers cluster on the vine When To Plant March-April When To Prune March-August According to Kew, Clematis is a genus of 384 accepted species.1 The name of the species Montana refers to the mountainous regions of Asia to which this plant is native to.2 Mountain clematis are favoured in gardens around the UK as a means of quickly and effectively covering a vertical structure, though they can also be used as makeshift ground cover. Having said that, their rapid climbing ability and the profusion of flowers they produce each spring are certainly their main strong suits. Common Varieties C. montana is a popular climber throughout the UK and various cultivars have been specifically bred for horticultural use in garden displays. The most popular among them include: C. montana ‘Elizabeth’ With pale pink blossoms that exude a deliciously sweet scent, ‘Elizabeth’ is ideal for covering the wall or fence adjoining a walkway so that they can be enjoyed to their fullest. During the flowering season, it blossoms so profusely that leaves are a rare sight. C. montana ‘Freda’ Roughly half the size of most clematises, ‘Freda’ is perfect for smaller spaces and its conservative growing habits mean there’s no danger it will get out of hand. What’s more, its cherry-pink petals fade to white in the centre with yellow stamen, making it one of the more striking flower heads in the C. montana family. C. montana var. grandiflora This oversized clematis boasts flowers up to 7cm in diameter and, if left unchecked, will reach up to 12m in both height and spread. Its brilliant white flowers are not as fragrant as some other species, but their purity and panache will shine in any garden display. Planting Mountain Clematis It’s a good idea to soak your clematis plant in water for at least a quarter of an hour before planting to ensure it’s fully hydrated. “My grandfather told me: ‘careful planting is the key to success’ – and I’ve never forgotten it,” shares Peter Skeggs-Gooch, the owner of Thorncroft Clematis & Climbers. “Preparation of the hole and added material to improve the soil are the most important factors.” Dig a hole that’s big enough for the root ball to sit a few centimetres below the surface of the soil and make sure the base and sides are malleable enough to allow for easy drainage. Organic compost can help to give the plant the best chance of establishing itself quickly, so a handful of this at the bottom of the hole is a good idea. “Large flowered clematis are greedy plants and need to be fed regularly,” explains Fiona Woolfenden. “It is best to give them a top dressing of compost every year in the spring and a handful of slow-release fertiliser such as chicken manure pellets. “Feed during the summer with tomato feed to keep the blooms going.” Clematis montana Care C. montana is incredibly easy to grow in the UK and can handle most temperatures and humidity levels. It may struggle if exposed to temperatures below 10°C on a consistent basis, but generally speaking, it’s happy enough in most locations. Aspect Since it works best when trained up a fence or trellis and prefers as much sunlight as you can give it, it’s advisable to plant it next to the south-facing side of the structure you wish to adorn with its beautiful blooms. “When considering a planting position, always think where the plant will want to go rather than where you want it to go,” advises Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant with over a decade of experience in the industry. “It will always grow towards the maximum available light, so place the plant so that it can grow where it will want to. “This will avoid the need to cut back C. montana, which will not require hard pruning unless it outgrows its desired position. “C. montana var. grandiflora is something of an exception, as it will grow happily in shadier areas.” Overwintering Depending on the cultivar chosen, mountain clematis usually has an RHS hardiness rating of H5. That means it can withstand most British weather quite comfortably, but if the temperature does manage to drop beneath -15°C where you live, you may look to mulch around the base. Soil “Although they tolerate cold and winds they are not used to boggy or overly wet conditions and will not thrive if they do not have good drainage,” explains Ken Black. If your garden suffers from particularly poor soil, you may want to consider enhancing it with organic compost. Watering Water newly planted specimens regularly until the roots are established. After it has reached maturity, it shouldn’t require any irrigation other than that it receives from precipitation. Container Growing Although clematis plants are normally grown directly in the ground, it’s entirely possible to cultivate them in a container. Choose one which is around 50cm wide and at least as deep and add stones to the base to aid drainage. Other than that, plant your mountain clematis in the same way you would if planting in the ground, using the guidelines mentioned above. “Don’t put a clematis in a small pot straight in the garden as the slugs and snails will enjoy it more than you!” Fiona warns. “Clematis in small pots, typically bought very cheaply in a supermarket, need to be grown in a pot for a year or so until they have a good root system.” Pruning In general, it’s not necessary to prune your mountain clematis plants at all. “Before planting, make sure that you have the space for your clematis, especially C. montana types, which can grow to be huge,” says Fiona. “Check how large the plant could get by looking at the plant label or consulting online.” If certain vines and branches are becoming overgrown and unsightly, you might want to trim them back when the blooms fade. You can also deadhead old blooms in autumn to encourage better growth next year. Propagation There are two ways to propagate mountain clematis – from softwood cuttings or by layering. If following the former, cut a branch from the main plant of about 7cm in length in April or May. Remove most of the foliage and plant the cutting upright in a rooting mixture, then cover it with a plastic bag or place it in a propagator. Keep it warm and moist (but out of direct sunlight) until it has rooted, which normally takes around 5 weeks. If layering, select a healthy stem which can reach the ground. Bend it down to reach the soil and make a small nick in the stem near the tip, applying rooting hormone to the incision. Bury the stem in a hole and use a stake or twine to secure it in place. Water the trench and do not remove the stem from the main plant until it has established its own shoots. Common Problems “Many gardeners think they have clematis wilt when they see a plant with a stem with flowers and leaves that have drooped,” says Fiona Woolfenden. “Wilt is actually very rare these days and what is much more common is that one or more of the stems of the plant has been damaged by snails or slugs, an animal or even a careless gardener! “If only one stem has drooped, follow it back and see if you can find a damaged part on the plant. “The damage can be just a small crack or bend in the stem or where a snail has stripped the outer layer off the stem. “In these cases, cut the stem below the damaged part and it will regrow. “If all the stems have drooped and you cannot see any damage, cut all the stems down and, as long as you planted it deep, it should regrow next year. “Do not compost the stems you removed if you think the plant does have wilt.” References 1. Clematis. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:329401-2 2. Clematis montana. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/clematis-montana/
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