Growing
Clematis Armandii Growing Advice With The International Clematis Society
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Armand Clematis? How To Grow Clematis armandii Common Problems References Playing with vertical plants is a fantastic way of adding depth and dimension to your garden or outdoor space. When we think of plants and floral displays, our imaginings often centre on ground level. Flowerbeds at our feet where colours and shapes intermingle, competing and complementing each other to capture our attention. Occasionally a tall flower may stand proudly above the rest, but the majority of the visual interest is below our knees. It doesn’t have to be this way, though. You’re not restricted to ground-level displays. In this post, we’ll introduce you to Clematis armandii: a stunning evergreen vine with cascading white floral blooms that looks simply incredible, whether used as a backdrop or a centrepiece. Overview Botanical Name Clematis armandii Common Name(s) Armand Clematis Plant Type Climber / Perennial Native Area Central & Western China Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Leathery, dark green evergreen leaves Flowers Usually white or pink, star-shaped When To Sow March, April, May, September, October Plant Out March, April When To Prune February, March Flowering Months March, April, May Armand clematis, or Clematis armandii is an attractive vine that spills forth with white flowers in spring and early summer, against a backdrop of rich evergreen leaves. The accomplished combination of colours and shades makes this plant a great fixture in any outdoor space, whether you’ve got access to soil or you’re limited to containers. The plant is native to China but has found fans all over the world, and its hardiness preferences suit it well to growth in British conditions.1 Incorporate this plant into your garden and we can assure you that you won’t regret your decision. It’s a pleasure to look at, easy to grow, and ready to combine with myriad other blooms. Why Grow Armand Clematis? There are a few good reasons to grow C. armandii. Firstly, it’s easy to grow. It’s not finicky, and you won’t find yourself outside in all weathers trying to desperately keep your plant alive. Just take care of a couple of requirements (which we’ll come to shortly) and you’re good to go. The second reason to grow C. armandii is simple: it’s beautiful. There’s something uniquely captivating about vines – the way they take vertical surfaces in their stride, playing with our expectations about space and how to use it. As your clematis becomes established and confidently asserts itself in your garden, you’ll come to love its vertical presence. Third? The flowers. These small white blooms that burst forth in spring are gentle and delicate. They’re a great advance party for the annual bloom, too, leading the way for all the other flowers in your garden. “Clematis armandii is both early-flowering and vigorous type that gives a good display and is generally scented, producing a fantastic aroma,” says Fiona Woolfenden from the International Clematis Society. How To Grow Clematis armandii Sowing “I’d really recommend buying clematis plants rather than growing from seed unless you have lots of time and are experienced in sowing,” explains Fiona. “Clematis seeds can take several years to germinate and will not necessarily be the same as the parent and may take several years to flower. “For example, if you want to grow Clematis armandii, then definitely buy a plant in order to get a good hybrid. “Seeds on the internet labelled clematis seeds often are not clematis at all, so buy from a reputable supplier or obtain from a Clematis Society.” Most people will choose to grow clematis from a cutting as this is easier and leads to a quicker flowering, however you can grow from seed. If you choose to do that, here’s how: Sow in autumn into seed compost with a little grit Leave in an unheated greenhouse or similar glass structure Pot in early spring, choosing a 9cm pot and upgrading to 12-15cm when established If you’re planting out your clematis seedlings, wait until they’re well established before transferring to the ground. Spring is the best time to plant out your clematis, regardless of whether you’re growing from seed or cutting. You can plant out through to autumn if you live somewhere with mild winters. Where To Grow The roots and feet of C. armandii should always be in the shade, whereas the higher parts of the plant will do best in bright sunlight. If you’re struggling to find a spot in your garden that meets these criteria naturally, you can cover the bottom of the plant manually. Simply erect a barrier around the base using any suitable bits of material. Planting As well as finding adequate light conditions, you also need to plant your clematis the right distance from the wall or structure it’s going to climb. The ideal distance is between 15 and 30cm: any closer and growth will be stifled, whereas growing further away will place too much strain on the young plant. When you’ve found a spot, dig a hearty hole for your clematis to go in. The diameter should be at least 30cm. Pop the plant in the hole and lean it slightly towards the wall or structure. This helps to orient the clematis correctly, giving it a better shot at taking hold. Container Growing If you prefer to grow plants in containers rather than the ground, you’re in luck here. C. armandii takes well to container growth if you take time to get the right soil. Look for flower plant mix, and make sure to use a pot with adequate drainage. Mulching the base of the plant is a good way to aid moisture retention, and doing so will have a noticeable effect on growth. To accommodate a growing clematis, choose a pot at least 40cm in diameter. You’ll most likely need to repot every couple of years to give the plant space to thrive. Fertilising Adding a little compost or manure when you plant out your clematis will encourage healthy growth from the outset. This plant doesn’t require frequent ongoing composting. Watering C. armandii likes regular watering, especially through summer. Take care to keep the soil moist and not over-saturated. As we mentioned previously, good drainage and a layer of mulch stand your plant in good stead to get the required amount of moisture. Pruning “Some clematis supposedly should never be pruned, such as C. armandii and C. montana types, but sometimes they just outgrow their space and you have to hard prune,” says Fiona. “I have a C. armandii type which is large in a small garden and I prune the left side one year and the right side the following year and this works just fine.” Pruning C. armandii can be a great way to keep it in check and encourage a fuller and healthier bloom next year. “It is sometimes recommended not to prune C. armandii back hard, but I have cut it back successfully too,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Ideally, select a location where it can fully express its vigour and fill a large space, but for many gardeners with less space, the only option is to control the growth. “Cutting back areas on a rotation after flowering is a pragmatic way of keeping a good amount of flowers whilst keeping growth within bounds.” The plant’s early bloom lends itself well to pruning at the end of each season. Here’s what you’re looking to do: Prune in February or March depending on when your clematis’ bloom finishes Trim about 40-60cm from any stem which flowered Remove any dead wood “You can pinch out the clematis stems to make the plant bushier and get more flowers,” suggests Fiona. This plant requires very little care compared to some others and will bounce back well from overzealous pruning. This offers great peace of mind to less experienced gardeners who may be wary about taking the secateurs to their prized flowers! Common Problems Thankfully C. armandii is fairly resistant to disease, although you’ll need to keep your eye out for some hungry critters. “Sudden die-back can be an issue,” explains Peter Skeggs-Gooch from Thorncroft Clematis & Climbers. “However, it is very rarely true clematis wilt and is usually caused by something physical, like slug or snail damage on the stems. “If the damage is bad enough, it can cause the stem to die back, shrivel and go brown, resembling the appearance of wilt.” Slugs, Caterpillars & Aphids Obviously C. armandii is a tasty treat, as it attracts the who’s who of hungry garden visitors. If you see telltale holes in the leaves of your plant, one of these three pests is probably the culprit. For all, you can manually remove the offending insect from the plant, then apply some herbicide spray to discourage further visits, as Peter shares: “Cut out affected stems and improve support for the healthy stems from the soil level to the wall or fence they are growing on, as that way, they won’t crack and fall near the floor. Then you can try and prevent further slug damage.” Slugs are fairly easy to trap, and depending on how creative you’re feeling you have a few options (beer trap, anyone?). References 1. Clematis armandii. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/clematis-armandii/
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When Growing Honeysuckle In Pots, These Are The Varieties And Containers To Choose
IN THIS GUIDE Honeysuckle Varieties For Pots Growing Honeysuckle In Pots Choosing Containers Potted Honeysuckle Care Common Problems References Honeysuckle is one of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow, producing beautiful pollinator-friendly flowers, often with a heaven-sent smell that lingers in the air. Though suited to growing direct in the ground, they are also well adapted to being grown in pots and containers, so can be grown almost anywhere. For those growing in the ground, see our Honeysuckle plant care guide which will better serve your requirements. If growing in containers, please read on… Honeysuckles are botanically named ‘Lonicera’ and are part of the Caprifoliaceae family, comprising approximately 180 different species of ornamental climbers and shrubs.1 Honeysuckles can be deciduous or evergreen, and typically flower in summer to autumn, but some can even flower in winter, providing a wonderful scent in the darkest months. Lonicera caprifolium However, not all honeysuckles are scented, so it is well worth checking before growing yours. Honeysuckles tend to grow best in full sun, however, some varieties can cope with partial shade. The scent of climbing honeysuckle is most often more intense when grown in a sunny and warm spot, such as on a south or west-facing wall. Honeysuckle Varieties For Pots Honeysuckles are widely available in so many different guises and forms. From tall climbers to small shrubs, there is a perfect variety for every garden or balcony. With so many to choose from, here are some great options when growing in pots: Japanese Honeysuckle L. japonica ‘Halliana‘, more widely known as Japanese honeysuckle, is hardy to H5 and is a tall evergreen climber growing to a height of 4-8m and a width of 1 -1.5m. It produces stunning scented flowers from April onwards into the summer, which start out white and slowly turn yellow. Common Honeysuckle L. periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’, a cultivar of the common honeysuckle or woodbine, is a vigorous and scented deciduous climber that can grow to 4-8m tall and 1-1.5m wide. Reportedly hardy in all of the UK, it should be able to cope with the worst of any British winter. With a long flowering season, it produces red berries come autumn. Delavay Honeysuckle L. similis var delavayi, or Delavay honeysuckle, is a hardy and semi-evergreen shrub that can sprawl to a height of 4-8m and a width of 1-1.5m over time, but is often grown as a climber. Flowering from June to September it produces beautifully scented cream coloured flowers that turn yellow as summer progresses. Winter Honeysuckle L. fragrantissima, or winter honeysuckle is a semi-evergreen shrub that produces delightfully scented white flowers between December and March. This grows to a height of 1.5-2.5m and a width of 1.5-2.5m. It is best planted near a doorway or porch so the scent can be enjoyed as often as possible during the winter. Poor Man’s Box L. nitida, is better known as poor man’s box. A small-leaved evergreen variety that can be small and compact and thus perfect for hedges or topiary. If left to its own devices it can eventually grow to 1.5-2.5m tall and 1.5-2.5m wide. Growing Honeysuckle In Pots It may be true that some honeysuckles don’t do as well in a pot when compared to being planted directly in the ground, but the majority will grow perfectly well. The huge advantage of growing in a pot is that they can be grown on a terrace or balcony and can be moved around to find the best position. With this in mind, in their native habitats, climbing honeysuckles tend to have their roots in the shade and their stems reaching for the sky. Honeysuckles are best planted in spring, as the temperatures begin to rise and they have several months to establish before winter sets in. To plant, half fill the pot or container with compost, place the plant in the pot at the same depth as previously planted and backfill around the plant, firming in gently. Water well, top-up any receded soil as necessary and tie in any shoots to the supports. Choosing Containers When it comes to choosing a pot or container for a honeysuckle plant, it is usually a case of the bigger the better – ideally at least two or three times as big as its current pot. This will allow for the roots to spread wide and deep and encourage the shrub or climber to grow well. Honeysuckles will turn up their feet if subjected to waterlogged soil, so adequate drainage holes are a must so any excess water can freely drain away. Using pot risers or feet may help any excess water drain away, as they lift the pot a few centimetres off the ground. Potted Honeysuckle Care When growing honeysuckle in a pot or container it is important to use a free-draining, rich and good quality compost, such as John Innes no 3, which is recommended for shrubs and climbers. If growing a large honeysuckle shrub or climber then support for the plant to grow upwards is generally required. Supports are best installed at the time of planting so the new young shoots can be trained in. Supports can include wooden trellis, bamboo canes or metal obelisks. Even though some honeysuckles are self-twinning, they will benefit from tying in, especially when first establishing themselves. Watering & Feeding Most honeysuckles will grow best in moist, but free-draining soil and if grown in pots will require regular watering throughout the growing season. Since the nutrients in the pot will need replacing over time, it is recommended to feed annually in spring with a general fertiliser and once again later in the growing season. A good mulch of organic matter in the spring is a good idea as well, as it will help conserve moisture during the hotter months. Pruning Honeysuckle pruning depends on the variety. L. japonica ‘Halliana’ and other climbing honeysuckles fall into pruning group 11 and require any congested stems to be thinned out and overgrown shoots reduced to just above a healthy bud in the spring. Reducing stems by up to two-thirds each spring can help ensure the plant does not out-grow its pot and encourages fresh growth each year which flowers in late spring. If the plant needs renovating, which it may do after several years, the plant can be cut down in spring to 60cm from ground level, from which it will grow again. The shrubby L. fragrantissima, on the other hand, is specified as pruning group 2 and does not necessarily need pruning. However, it can be trimmed to size immediately after flowering in April or May, but no later. Common Problems Honeysuckle Aphid Honeysuckles are generally pest and disease-free – however, they can be susceptible to aphids. Aphids or ‘greenfly’ as they are commonly known, are sap-sucking insects which often leave behind a sticky honeydew substance. It is important to start checking honeysuckle plants for aphids from spring onwards, as if caught early control measures can be taken, before a larger infestation potentially causes damage. Controls can include squishing by hand and encouraging aphids’ predators (including hoverflies, ladybirds and ground beetles) into the nearby area. Organic sprays such as fatty acids and plant oils can prove effective or with severe infestations, contact insecticides may need to be used. However, it is important not to spray plants when in flower as this presents a danger to pollinators. Mildew Honeysuckles can be susceptible to powdery mildew, especially during the summer months. Powdery mildew is caused by fungal spores and can sometimes indicate that the roots of the plant are dry. Increasing air circulation can help prevent powdery mildew from developing, so make sure the plant is not overcrowded by other plants. “During a dry spring when young growth is emerging, it’s important to ensure honeysuckles are kept well watered at the roots, as this is the most effective way to prevent powdery mildew,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. If your honeysuckle is affected by mildew it is important to collect and dispose of the affected fallen leaves and flowers, as this will help break the cycle of new spores developing in the following spring. For severe cases, fungicides such as Tebuconazole and Triticonazole have been approved for the control of mildew on ornamental plants, but are only recommended as a last resort and after non-chemical controls have been tried. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998d, July 20). Caprifoliaceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Caprifoliaceae
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Train Your Clematis To Climb: Experts Share Their Advice For Trellis, Walls And Fences
IN THIS GUIDE Training Your Clematis To Climb Training On A Trellis Training On A Wall Or Fence Training To Climb A Pillar Keeping Clematis In Check Clematis sports a dainty and attractive bloom ranging from gentle violets to bold purples, to delicate whites and everything in between. For the discerning gardener looking for an enticing but not overpowering splash of colour, this flower is a fantastic choice. This versatile plant can be grown in the ground or in containers. In the latter, they make great ornamental flowers that will remain at a fairly manageable size. Grown in the ground, however, and clematis will grow to a much bigger size. It will also climb: a property that many gardeners put to great effect by training the plant to climb trees, fences, trellises, and all sorts of vertical surfaces. “If you get the planting and the position right, then the plant should establish well and find the support that you have provided,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I find Clematis to be generally self-training and I only usually need to remove the occasional stem that has gone awry. “It depends to some extent on the space available and the style of garden that you have. “Larger and more naturalistic gardens suit Clematis that fills a space more naturally whilst smaller, more formal gardens will suit a more tended, tied-in approach.” Training Your Clematis To Climb We’ll begin with fences and trellises, before moving on to pillars. Training On A Trellis With a trellis, you enjoy the luxury of having spaces between the various bits of wood, which make tying your clematis much easier. We definitely recommend this method if you’re not looking to use too many power tools! The first step is to plant your clematis, and the roots should be about 6 inches from the base of the support structure. “When a clematis is young, the stems aren’t as thick and robust, so need adequate support low down or they can be damaged,” says Fraser Wescott, owner of Walled Garden Nursery, a specialist clematis nursery. While this may feel quite far away, it leaves space for the plant to grow, and it’s far preferable to planting too close to the wall and stifling growth! Choose a type of clematis that suits the visual appeal you’re looking for and growing conditions in your garden. All you need to do with your trellis is to tie branches onto the structure with twine, gardening wire, or a similar material. “The wind is probably the biggest enemy of clematis, so ensuring that the growths are secured to prevent them from snapping is very important,” explains Ken Black, the owner of Ken Black Clematis, a specialist plant nursery. However, it’s very important that you tie it on gently with plenty of room to move, because tight knots will restrict the growth of the branch and eventually kill it off! “I use string to tie the clematis to a trellis so I can just cut the string when I prune the plant and put the whole lot in the green bin, rather than using plastic ties or wire which I would need to remove first,” says Fiona Woolfenden from the International Clematis Society. “Using string saves me time later. “I use a trellis with 4 inch (10 cm) holes which looks nice in the winter when the clematis have been pruned. “Most of my clematis are late flowering varieties which are hard pruned every year, so I can also just weave in some of the stems in between the wood of the trellis when I am in a hurry.” When the clematis reaches the right length, gently pull it upwards and attach a branch. This will encourage future growth to continue upwards, and you can repeat the process by attaching ongoing growth further up the trellis as it becomes big enough. Training On A Wall Or Fence If you’re training your clematis directly up a wall or fence rather than up a support structure like a trellis, you need another way to keep it securely attached. We recommend using lengths of wire arranged horizontally, running parallel to the ground at graduated heights proportionate to the eventual size of the plant. Peter Skeggs-Gooch, the owner of the plant nursery Thorncroft Clematis & Climbers, opts for this method when supporting his own clematis: “I suggest you use strong vine eyes and wire instead of trellis because it is less intrusive to the picture of the garden and, once the clematis is covering the wires, you won’t even see the support, making it look very natural. “Furthermore, when built with good quality materials, this type of support requires little to no maintenance, meaning more time to enjoy the garden and your flowers!” You’ll attach the clematis to these wires, and they’ll provide enough support to keep it growing well. The steps are simple: Measure up from the ground to about a third of the eventual desired height of the plant. Make a mark on the fence or wall with a pen. Drill in here and insert a hook. Use a wire clip to attach your wire to the hook. Make sure to trim your wire to the desired length before starting. Run the wire horizontally to its length, and then make another mark at the end. Use a spirit level to check it’s straight if you don’t trust your eye. Drill another hole and use a turnbuckle to attach the wire. Tighten the wire so that it’s just about taut. Repeat the process for another wire about 12 inches above the first. Training To Climb A Pillar If you’ve got pillars supporting the corners of archways, verandas, or other garden structures, you can create a stunning visual effect by training climbing plants to grow up and around them. We encourage experimenting with this idea as it’s a great way to liven up garden structures while giving your treasured plants more space to grow and thrive. It’s a little overgrown but you get the idea! The process here doesn’t vary too much from growing up a trellis, except that the support structure is somewhat different. “Make sure the first part of the support starts at least 12 inches from the ground,” says Fraser. Here, we recommend using chicken wire cut to size and wrapped loosely around the pillar. Simply wrap it around and use a couple of nails or hooks to keep the top section attached to prevent it from sliding down. Once the chicken wire is in place, it’s just a case of tying your clematis branches onto it with twine, gardening wire, or similar (much like with the trellis!). As the clematis grows you can encourage it to surround the pillar by tying it progressively further around. Keeping Clematis In Check While plenty of growth is very helpful when training your clematis to grow up or around a support structure, this plant can get a little unruly. “In my view, clematis looks better when it is not growing above eye height,” says Ken Black. “Therefore, if you want to grow up a wall, trellis or other structure, tie in the growths horizontally when the desired height has been reached.” In addition to this, when the time rolls around to prune your clematis, we recommend doing so. It may feel counterproductive to hinder growth, but you’ll find it much easier to coax the clematis into its desired shape if you have full control over the branches. This plant boasts a number of varieties, and they fall into different pruning groups. This means that instructions vary slightly for each, so make sure you know what you’re working with! For varieties in pruning group 1, prune in mid or late spring once they’ve flowered, and after the last frost. Pruning before the final frost will result in damaged new growth. For pruning group 2, prune a little earlier: February should do the trick. Then prune again lightly at the beginning of summer. For group 3, just prune in February. Done right, climbing clematis is a real sight to behold. These plants are striking and attractive, and their stems winding nimbly up a trellis, wall, pillar, or any other structure will bring a dash of colour and visual interest. Incorporated into other floral displays, you’ll be surprised at how much of an impact a vertical element can bring to your garden – so much so that we bet you’ll come back for more!
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Horticulturists Suggest These 15 Hardy Climbers & Shrubs For Winter Interest
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Ivy 2) Honeysuckles 3) Evergreen Clematis 4) Silk Tassel Brush 5) Climbing Hydrangeas 6) Emerald Gaiety 7) Firethorn 8) Wall Cotoneaster 9) California Lilac 10) Star Jasmine 11) Passion Flower 12) Holly-Leaved Sweet Spire 13) Wintersweet 14) Oregon Grape Hybrid 15) Camellia sasanqua If you’re looking for climbing plants or wall shrubs for winter interest, look no further – we have a list of 15 great options for you to choose from. Climbers and shrubs which can be trained against walls (usually those which retain their leaves or provide winter interest) can be very valuable plants to include in your garden. Not only will they look good, but they can also be great for the wildlife with which you share your space. “A combination of evergreen climbing plants can provide beauty, as well as habitat and nectar and pollen for garden life, for most months of the year,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are also relatively low-maintenance, usually needing only an annual prune.” Evergreen shrubs and climbers are typically those which are best for adding interest to the winter garden. These can provide year-round privacy when trained on a fence and provide shelter for a range of garden creatures. They also make a great visual backdrop – especially when trained against a garden boundary or a wall of your home, for the bare branches of deciduous shrubs and trees. We have chosen the plants on this list for their broad applicability in garden design here in the UK, and for their visual appeal during winter months. If you are looking for evergreen climbing plants and wall shrubs for winter interest, then of course you have other options, but considering these fifteen options could be a good place to start: 1) Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: Hedera helix HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY Ivy (Hedera helix) is a native workhorse of the winter garden. It will reliably remain evergreen all year round, providing shelter for a range of wildlife, and visual interest even over the coldest months. It will also have blackberries in the winter months, providing an excellent food source for native birds. It is H5 hardy, and can be grown almost anywhere, from full sun sites, to deep shade. This self-clinging climber may be too vigorous for some settings, but it can be perfect for growing up a tall wall or fence in any orientation. Look out for variegated varieties for even more winter interest. 2) Honeysuckles BOTANICAL NAME: Lonicera HARDINESS RATING: H6 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -15°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE There are a wide range of honeysuckles that can be grown in UK gardens, from the native but deciduous common honeysuckle, to honeyberry (edible honeysuckles), to evergreen options like Japanese honeysuckle, for example. Japanese honeysuckle is H6 hardy, which is great for winter interest. Another honeysuckle for winter interest is the deciduous Lonicera fragrantissima, which is deciduous, but which flowers in late winter or early spring. 3) Evergreen Clematis BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis cirrhosa HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Another climber which is both evergreen and winter flowering is Clematis cirrhosa. Try varieties like ‘Winter Beauty’ or ‘Early Sensation’, for example. They have delicate bell-shaped, creamy-white flowers set against their ferny foliage. This is a good choice for a full sun, sheltered site in milder areas. It requires moist yet free-draining soil. This evergreen clematis is H4 hardy in the UK. 4) Silk Tassel Brush BOTANICAL NAME: Garrya elliptica HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE Also known as silk-tassel bush, this shrub is also great for training against a wall or fence. It should thrive in full sun or a partially shaded site, and not only has evergreen foliage but also bears beautiful silver catkins through the winter months. It is H4 hardy in the UK and will grow to 3.5m, or even taller in mild areas with well-drained soil. 5) Climbing Hydrangeas BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea petiolaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY Climbing hydrangeas can also be great wall shrubs for winter interest. Hydrangea petiolaris, H. seemannii and the related H. virburnoides are all self-clinging climbers which offer year-round interest in your garden. These are H5 hardy and can work well in many different situations with almost any aspect and soil type, as long as the soil does not become waterlogged in winter. 6) Emerald Gaiety BOTANICAL NAME: Euonymus fortunei HARDINESS RATING: H5/H6 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10 TO -20°C PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Euonymus fortunei is another great self-clinging climber to consider for your garden, to add evergreen interest over the winter months. Spindles or winter creepers are H5 or H6 hardy, and can work well when grown as free-standing shrubs or when trained as climbers against a wall. Euonymus can work well in full sun or partial shade, facing south, east or west. Variegated cultivars such as ‘Silver Queen’ can be great for enlivening a shady spot. 7) Firethorn BOTANICAL NAME: Pyracantha HARDINESS RATING: H5/H6 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10 TO -20°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Pyracantha is another shrub excellent for training against a wall or fence. Beautiful red or orangey berries appear in autumn and will often grace the plant all through the winter months. These are also H5 or H6 hardy. They do well in full sun or part shade, and can work well on sheltered or exposed sites, with any aspect. They prefer moist but well-drained or well-drained soil. 8) Wall Cotoneaster BOTANICAL NAME: Cotoneaster horizontalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: COLDER THAN -20°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN Another excellent choice for winter berries is Cotoneaster, also known as wall spray, which is another vigorous shrub that can be grown up and over walls or fences. It has pink-tinged, delicate white flowers which are followed by red berries. And the glossy leaves remain reliably in place throughout the whole of the year. 9) California Lilac BOTANICAL NAME: Ceanothus HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This evergreen shrub is H4 hardy, and can work extremely well as a wall shrub when trained against a sunny and sheltered south-facing wall or fence. Ceanothus flowers, depending on the variety, are born in spring, summer or even early autumn. But even in winter, this shrub will usually keep its little crinkled leaves throughout the winter months. 10) Star Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Trachelospermum jasminoides HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Also hardy through most of the UK, star jasmine is another evergreen climbing shrub to consider. ‘Variegatum’ is a cultivar that not only has fragrant white flowers born in summer, but also attractive white-edged leaves, which blush red in winter. It can work well in full sun or partial shade and will do well against a sheltered south or west-facing wall, in well-drained soil. 11) Passion Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Passiflora caerulea HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Blue passionflower is another H4 hardy climber, which could be another great option to consider. This is another evergreen, which will often retain its leaves through winter in milder areas in the UK, though it may lose them over the coldest months in colder regions. This fast-growing climber can work well in full sun or partial shade in sheltered spots and is another interesting option for a south or west-facing wall or fence. 12) Holly-Leaved Sweet Spire BOTANICAL NAME: Itea ilicifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Holly-leaved sweet spire is another attractive evergreen wall shrub for winter interest. It flowers in the summer/early autumn small greenish-white flowers in long dangling racemes. H5 hardy, this plant also remains evergreen and keeps its holly-like oval leaves over the winter too. It likes a sheltered, full sun or partial shade site, in moist but well-drained soil. 13) Wintersweet BOTANICAL NAME: Chimonanthus praecox HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN Wintersweet, H5 hardy, is another wonderful wall shrub to consider for your winter garden. It is well known for its wonderfully fragrant yellow flowers which it bears over the winter months when grown against a sunny west or south-facing wall in a sheltered position with well-drained soil. 14) Oregon Grape Hybrid BOTANICAL NAME: Mahonia x media HARDINESS RATING: H5 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -10°C PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY Best known as a sprawling shrub of neglected shady garden corners, Mahonia x media, or Oregon grape, can also be trained as a wall shrub to enliven a wall or fence over the winter months. The spiky, glossy leaves look good all year round, bright yellow flowers look great early in the season and are a delight for early pollinators, and the berries that then form are edible too – great for baking, jams or jellies. 15) Camellia sasanqua HARDINESS RATING: H4 MINIMUM REQUIRED TEMPERATURE: -5°C PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED Finally, last but not least, you could consider growing a winter Camellia. With its upright habit, this camellia is great for growing up against a wall or fence. It bears its fragrant white flowers in autumn and winter. It is H4 hardy, and will thrive against a north, west or south-facing structure.
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Pruning Wisteria Can Breathe Life Into Mature Plants - Here Are Chris O’Keefe's Top Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Wisteria? When To Prune Wisteria Summer Maintenance Pruning Winter Maintenance Pruning Pruning For Shape And Form Espaliered Wisteria Training On Structures Pairing With Mature Trees Standard Training Dramatic Pruning To Renovate Older Wisteria Learn how to prune wisteria to keep it healthy and looking its best. Wisteria is a beautiful climbing plant – take care of it and it can really have a strong impact in your garden. But learning how to prune your plants is important – wisteria, like many other plants, will look better and be healthier if you prune it annually, at the right times and in the right ways. This might seem a little complicated at first, so in this article, we will aim to demystify and help you understand the process, so you can do it correctly in your own garden. Why Prune Wisteria? Wisteria The main reasons to prune wisteria are: Stop them becoming too large – wisteria can outgrow their location. Improve light reaching new growth – so it grows well and flower buds form as they should. Better flowering – reducing the amount of foliage growth and encouraging short, flowering spurs means you will have more flowers on your wisteria. Neatness and practicality – pruning can keep wisteria on its support structures, not overly reducing light levels or preventing egress to different parts of your garden. And it can breathe new life into old, mature plants in need of renovation. For pruning, Chris O’Keefe from The London Wisteria Company says you need: A pair of clean, sharp secateurs A safe ladder If possible, a 2nd person to hold the ladder Garden ties to tie in any new leader shoots Good weather Garden bags When To Prune Wisteria Wisterias are typically best pruned twice each year. Once in the summer – in July / August – and once in the winter – in January / February. Renovation pruning when the plants are cut back much more dramatically can also be undertaken any time over the dormant period. (Considered after leaves have fallen in autumn, and before new growth emerges in spring.) Summer Maintenance Pruning Standard summer maintenance pruning takes place after the wisteria has finished flowering. “Summer pruning normally happens between late July to August,” says Chris. “We just prune back to 5 buds. This allows airflow through the wisteria and more sunlight is allowed in, which helps ripen the buds, creating larger flowers the following year. “We also prune out any stems which have grown into roof gutters and downpipes.” The main goal of this summer pruning is to control the size of the plant. You might wish to control the size of the plant to prevent it from getting into the guttering of your home, to prevent it from covering windows, or to prevent it from outgrowing a support structure on which it grows. Summer pruning will also ensure that light reaches the growth and that the plant does not put on excessive foliar growth at the expense of flowers. In July or August, cut back each of the green, newer shoots of the growth from the current year to 5-6 leaves each. Look for the position where the softer growth joins the main branches and count the leaves from this joint. Winter Maintenance Pruning Winter pruning is mostly about making sure that the plant is tidy, in shape and healthy before the growing season begins. “With any wisteria, winter pruning is key,” says Chris. “We always hard prune between January and March back to 2-3 flowering spurs. “We then remove any dead wood and tie in any new leader stems. This is also the correct time to add more support for your wisteria if it is needed. “In some larger jobs, we totally remove the wisteria from the wall, barn, or house and strip all old supports. “We then supply new supports such as vine eyes, rope wire, and turnbuckles.” This work can be undertaken at any point while the plant is not in leaf and is within its dormant phase, but January or February is usually best. Firstly, look for the three ‘D’s. Remove any branches or shoots which are dead, damaged or diseased, leaving the healthiest shoots behind. Then, you can also cut back the same shoots which were pruned in summer once more, to leave each one with just 2-3 buds. This will help to keep the size and shape of the plant in check, and also help to reduce foliage shading on the flowers of the following season. Pruning For Shape And Form As well as thinking about the normal summer and winter maintenance pruning, you can also think about pruning for a specific shape or form. Wisteria can be grown in different forms, and can be pruned in specific ways to suit the situation. Espaliered Wisteria For example, you might grow wisteria on walls and train it as an espalier. Espalier forms are a popular choice for fruit trees, but they can also work for many climbing plants – including wisteria. “I find the espalier system is especially neat for Wisteria, as it gives flowers space to hang,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “I have trained wires the whole length of a fence, tensioned at each post, to achieve this look.” Pruning for an espaliered wisteria should also be undertaken as above, twice a year. And over time, a strong spur system can be formed through selective pruning. New growth from the base of the plant can be cut off at the base, or trained for replacement shoots. Training On Structures Wisteria which have long flowering racemes will look best if they are trained on structures that allow them to hang without being impeded by foliage or branches. Training these onto pergolas, or arch structures therefore can be a good idea. “If you have an arbor or pergola, then the wisteria will naturally grow in and around it and will most likely only need attaching in key areas,” says Chris. “If you’re planting young wisteria, it’s quite fun to twist the young stems so that in time they become gnarly, twisted stems. “Always be aware of overhanging wires, roof gutters, and downpipes, as wisteria is a climbing plant and will climb if left unsupervised.” Wisteria arch As well as thinking about the maintenance pruning described above, it can also be helpful to think about thinning racemes to give the best space to develop and dangle down to create a good display. Pairing With Mature Trees Wisteria can also be positioned at the base of large, mature trees and grown into them. Pruning in these cases, however, can be challenging. It can be difficult to distinguish and reach the shoots you wish to prune when these are entangled in a canopy. In such cases, wisteria may largely be left to their own devices. However it should be noted that the species can affect the growth of each other. A large and sprawling wisteria can swamp smaller trees, and when a tree has a dense canopy, this can affect how much the wisteria flowers. Pruning in such cases will often be hampered by practicalities of reach. But you should prune both the wisteria and the tree so as to maximise light levels for both and ensure their continued health. Standard Training If you are training a wisteria as standard, in a container or in the ground, it is important to make sure there is a sturdy central support. The stem should be trained vertically up the support rather than twined for greater strength. Once the growing tip reaches the top of the central support, remove the tip in February. This will encourage the formation of side shoots. The following winter, prune the side shoots to around 15 to 30cm. Repeat this process every winter to start to form the head of the standard form. As the head forms, prune shoots that are not needed to extend the head. Cut them back to 7 leaves each summer and cut them back harder in the winter as required. Dramatic Pruning To Renovate Older Wisteria In the case of older wisteria plants, more dramatic pruning may be required to renovate them, and to make sure they do not grow out from walls, or over windows, or spill off their supports. A wisteria that has not been pruned for some time may be overgrown and need some work. You will have to begin by identifying and removing sections of the plant which are not performing as well, or which are in the way. You can cut back sections to a young, strong branch or shoot that is lower down, or, in extremes – even cut them back drastically to the main trunk, or even to ground level, where necessary. Take some time, and make a plan about which branches and shoots you wish to keep before you begin. Your aim should be to create a healthy and open framework of spaced out branches. New growth can be trained in to replace older ones you have removed and used to fill any gaps in the framework. Once you have a framework you are happy with, you should then simply continue the maintenance pruning as above.
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Mandevilla 'Rock Trumpet' Plants - Happiest Grown In A Conservatory Or Greenhouse
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Mandevilla Mandevilla Plant Care Common Problems References Mandevilla were previously classified within the Dipladenia genus, but were separated and re-classified in 1933.1 Nevertheless, these plants are sometimes referred to as being one and the same. They are probably better known as ‘Chilean Jasmine’ or ‘Rock Trumpet’ and are named after Henry Mandeville, an English diplomat and botanist.2 Mandevilla are usually climbers with showy, sometimes scented, flowers opening in the summer. However, they originate from warmer climates – meaning they are tender and are happiest grown in a conservatory or greenhouse here in the United Kingdom. Overview Botanical Name Mandevilla Common Name(s) Dipladenia, Rock Trumpet, Chilean Jasmine Plant Type Climber / Houseplant Native Area Americas Hardiness Rating H2/H3 Foliage Semi-evergreen climber Flowers Large, showy flowers When To Sow (Indoors) April, May Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September When To Prune March Mandevillas are perennial climbers that originate from North, Central and South America.3 They are stunning ornamentals that can have red, yellow, pink or even white flowers that are often scented and can bloom for months on end during the summer. Flowers are produced on the current year’s new growth and it is important to provide the right warm and humid conditions for the new shoots to grow to produce blooms later in the year. Varieties that are commonly available here in the United Kingdom include: Mandevilla sanderi M. laxa AGM M. boliviensis AGM Mandevilla is a great climber, with an exotic feel and easily grown in a pot. It can be a great addition to a conservatory or even an outside terrace, but only during the warmer months. How To Grow Mandevilla Mandevillas are most commonly grown from small plants available from local plant nurseries or online. They need indoor protection during the colder months and prefer full sunshine, although will need shading from the hot midday sun. Mandevillas are tender plants and need to be kept over winter in temperatures above 10°C and during spring require a humid and warm environment with temperatures of 18°C at night and 21°C during the day. However during the summer months, they can be placed outdoors in a sheltered and sunny spot. Mandevilla can be grown from seed in spring, but will need the warmth of a propagator to help them to germinate, or grown from softwood cuttings taken in early summer. If taking cuttings, new growth must be selected and in order to take root will need the bottom heat of a propagator. Where To Grow Mandevilla prefer full sun and a sheltered spot to grow well and produce the wonderful blooms they are known for. They are most commonly grown in pots so they can easily be moved depending on the seasons. Due to their temperature requirements, they are often grown in a conservatory or heated greenhouse and only placed outside during the warmest months of the year. Supports Supports are required for the climbers to grow up. Bamboo canes forming a tripod are often provided in the pot when bought, but in time and depending on space a taller support will be required. Longer term, metal climbing supports such as obelisks are ideal as they will not rot over time and provide a strong frame for the plant to grow upon. Mandevilla Plant Care To plant Mandevilla fill a pot with a free-draining, soil-based compost such as John Innes No.2 and plant at the same depth as previously planted. The shoots will need tying-in to begin with and the tops can be pinched out to promote bushier growth if required. Watering During the growing season, Mandevilla will need watering and feeding often, they do not like to have wet roots so make sure there is adequate drainage. During the winter months, growth will slow and the plant will need less moisture so reduce watering and cease feeding until spring. Repotting Mandevilla are grown for their flowers, which are only produced on new growth. Thus it is important to care for the plants during spring when the plant begins growing again after winter. It is recommended that Mandevilla are re-potted each spring with fresh compost and a larger pot as required. Pruning Depending on the variety, Mandevilla can grow to 4.5M tall. However, M. sanderi will usually grow to no more than 1.5M and thus might reach a better size if pot-grown and moved around depending on the seasons. Mandevilla are classed as RHS pruning group 12 and require pruning in late winter or early spring before any new growth appears.4 To prune, cut back any side shoots to 3-4 buds from the main framework and cut back any vertical stems outgrowing the supports. “Don’t be tempted to prune after mid-March as you could delay or stop flowering for that year because blooms break from the current year’s growth,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I find it convenient to prune and repot these plants at the same time each February.” Common Problems Pests Mealybugs are insects that feed on the sap of house and greenhouse plants, including Mandevilla. The telltale sign of mealybugs is a white fluffy residue left on the leaves and in the leaf joints. Aphids are also common with Mandevilla (I had recurring infestations when growing as a houseplant) and they are usually visible with the naked eye. Mealybugs or aphids do not mean the plant is destined for the compost pile, but can easily be dealt with if quick remedial action is taken. Firstly remove the affected plant from any others to avoid any spreading and contamination. Wipe away any sign of mealybugs or aphids from the plant using a wet sponge or baby wipe and remove any damaged leaves which may harbour eggs. Ladybirds like to eat mealybugs or aphids and their eggs and can be introduced during the summer months as a non-pesticidal approach. Pesticide control can include spraying the affected plant with plant oils, fatty acids and natural pyrethrum. I had particular success by removing aphids by hand, then spraying with neem, which seemed to make the surface of the plant a no-go zone for pests. Not Flowering Mandevilla needs the correct pruning regime, seasonal environment conditions and nutrients in order to flower. It is important not to prune the plant any later than spring as the new growth and subsequent blooms may be pruned off accidentally. Flowers are produced on new growth and thus it is important to make sure that the conditions are correct for the new shoots to appear. The correct temperature, soil kept moist (but not wet) and feeding the plant from spring onwards should help encourage the flowers to bloom. Leaves Falling Off Mandevilla are semi-evergreen and may drop some leaves during the winter months, this can be seasonal and nothing to worry about. However, if leaves are dropping during the summer then check you are not over or under-watering the plant and that there are no obvious pests, such as mealybugs on the plant. References 1. Palumbo, F., Draga, S., Scariolo, F., Gabelli, G., Batta Sacilotto, G., Gazzola, M., & Barcaccia, G. (2022, August 16). First genomic insights into the Mandevilla genus. Frontier. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2022.983879/full 2. Mandevilla. (n.d.). Heemskerk Flowers. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://en.heemskerkflowers.com/mandevilla 3. Mandevilla. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328998-2 4. Climbers and wall shrubs: pruning established plants. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/climbers/established-pruning-guide
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The Kiwi Plant: How To Grow Young Vines As A Source Of Delicious Garden Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Growing Considerations Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Kiwis Harvesting Kiwis Common Problems Common Varieties References Matching the rise in popularity of the Kiwi fruit over the past few decades is the recent ascendancy of Kiwi as a garden plant. These come in a surprising array of fruiting vines which can be grown from coast to coast in the UK. Admittedly, maintaining Kiwi vines requires time and skill but think of the reward: a bounty of garden-grown luscious Kiwis. Kiwis are often thought of as a fruit native to New Zealand; an exotic fruit with not very many types. These are both misconceptions. The types of Kiwis that we commonly buy at the store are native to China and were introduced to New Zealand as late as 1904.1 It is not exotic as so many hybrids and cultivars exist that they can be grown in hardiness zones from H3 through to H7. The fuzzy-skinned green Kiwi that we know and love so well is Actinidia deliciosa. It originates in the southeastern coastal regions of China.2 Overview Botanical Name Actinidia Common Name(s) Kiwi Plant Type Fruit / Climber Native Area China Hardiness Rating H3-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Creamy white flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June Harvesting Months August, September When To Prune January, February, July The Actinidia genus contains about 60 species, plus many hybrids and cultivars of the prime fruiting species.3 Comprising of shrubs and vines, all of them bear fruit from the size of a large grape to the relatively large fuzzy Kiwi. A Kiwi Plantation in New Zealand’s Bay of Plenty The vines that bear the smaller fruit are hardy – some are very hardy – and these are native to north-eastern Russia. Growing Considerations The ‘Fuzzy Kiwi’ fruit that most of us are familiar with is that of the ‘tender Kiwi,’ usually Actinidia deliciosa, sometimes Actinidia chinensis. Kiwi vines are traditionally dioecious – they bear either male or female flowers.4 Only the female vines bear fruit whereas male vines are necessary for pollination. The vast majority of commercial-named cultivars are either male or female though a few occur in both male and female forms, though during the past couple of decades, some reliable monoecious self-fertile cultivars have been developed. Flowers are white or creamy with the male ones having very prominent yellow anthers. They are more or less bowl-shaped with a full look about them. All kiwi flowers are pleasantly fragrant with the sweetness and intensity of the fragrance varying by variety. Habitat & Growing Conditions The various species of Actinidia are native to a swath of land from India and the Himalayas arcing south-east to steamy Borneo and north-east to cold Manchuria and frigid Khabarovsk. As one might expect, these different species’ respective hardinesses span many zones. The genus includes frost-tender species that are good for RHS H3 areas (USDA Zone 8) through ‘super-hardy’ vines that are hardy right down to RHS H7 (USDA Zone 3). The species of paramount interest to us, A. deliciosa, grows wild in the south-eastern coast of China’s Zhejiang province in scrubland with soil of varying quality and where these plants are frequently exposed to stiff northeasterly winds. A. deliciosa (common kiwifruit) is hardy throughout most of the UK (RHS Zone H4). How To Grow Kiwis A few of the more popular cultivars like ‘Hayward’ and ‘Jenny’ can be found as potted plants at some of the bigger nurseries and garden centres. A more extensive selection of cultivars is available at a limited number of fruit tree specialists. These merchants are easily found online and they are your best bet for obtaining a quality vine. Young vines are supplied as potted plants and in bare root form. In addition, you can ‘get’ Kiwi vines yourself by propagating them from softwood cuttings – mid-spring is the ideal time to do so. Be aware: our plant care guidelines pertain to tender Kiwi vine varieties which are derived from A. deliciosa. You can grow these outdoors in most regions of the United Kingdom but if you live in the Scottish Highlands or a particularly cold region of northern England, you will have less trouble with a hardy Kiwi cultivar, unless you grow tender Kiwi vines in a greenhouse (though if you use traditional dioecious vines, fertilising the flowers will be a problematic chore). Soil Requirements In growing Kiwis, soil pH is not of much importance while other soil-related factors are of great importance. That said, the optimal soil pH is moderately acidic to slightly acidic; between pH 5.6 and 6.5. The soil should be laid deep and drain very well. It should be a sand-based, light, friable loam which should include chalk and may also be amended with compost but should have minimal or no clay. As any waterlogging is very detrimental to these vines, to ensure good drainage the ground may be worked into mounds or ridges into which Kiwi vines can be planted. Feeding You may work in just a little bonemeal, fishmeal, or both into the soil itself; do not ‘fertilise’ the roots with it. It will act as a slow-release fertiliser high in Phosphorous and Potassium. Exposure The site should be where the plants are sheltered but enjoy full sun. Ideally the vine should be positioned against a wall that shelters it from the north-east and leaves it with a south-westerly exposure. Spring frosts slow both flowering and fruiting. The vine can tolerate a frost of up to about -7°C; anything colder and it will likely suffer adverse effects. Vines are best planted out in early spring, two to four weeks after the last frost. Pollination If you intend to grow your Kiwis the traditional way with dioecious vines, go with one male vine and four or five female ones. These should be sited close to one another: ‘Atlas’ and ‘Hayward’ are the cultivars of choice. If you want to use a monoecious vine, which is a godsend if you have limited space or must grow your vine in a greenhouse where pollination will be next to impossible, ‘Jenny’ is a top choice for the UK; ‘Solissimo’ is an excellent alternative. Depending on the varieties and other variables, it takes two to five years, typically three, for vines to produce fruit. Watering Water regularly so that the soil is kept moist – it should not stay wet. Vines have increased water requirements soon after transplanting, when they are young, and when they are setting fruit. In wet parts of the country, established Kiwi vines may well get enough water from the rain. Support Female vines have to be grown and trained on trellises (though one ought to do so for male vines too). A Kiwi vine’s horizontal fruiting arms supported by a framework A-frame pergolas are even better as the vine is trained and opened on it in such a way that yields are boosted and harvesting is easier. Pruning For good yields the female vines – besides being adequately pollinated – need to be trained and correctly pruned. “My experience of kiwis (the vigorous cultivar ‘Jenny’) is that if they aren’t pruned annually, they will make a bid to take over your garden,” warns Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “When trained, they are an ornamental feature in their own right as well as a source of delicious fruit.” All said, it is a technical gardening endeavour that requires time and commitment. Train and prune each vine initially so that there is a single leader and about four arms or canes. (These will be refreshed about every three years.) When the leader gets to the top of the frame, pinch it to halt further growth. You should then have three or four strong lateral arms initially – these will become the first fruiting arms. Train these arms at an angle on the trellis and prune any new shoots. The aim is to have a single leader, and to maintain fruiting arms that are spaced from 50-70cm apart on the vine. The arms that are one or two years old bear the most fruit; arms bear less fruit as they age. In summers, deadhead spent flowers and thin them if the bloom is excessive. Train new shoots on the trellis to grow above and away from foliage so that they get the right start. In winters, prune the fruiting arms judiciously – prune arms that are three or more years old (provided you have a sufficient number of young fruiting arms). Maintain the correct spacing between these fruiting arms, and prune excess new shoots. Strive to keep a good balance of new shoots and one- and two-year arms. At this time, train the arms to grow above and away from the foliage. Overwintering Water the vine only now and then in winter. In winter keep an eye on the weather forecast. If a prolonged freeze or repeated frosts are expected, protect the main vine and leader right from the soil line with horticultural fleece. Feeding Every alternate year, you may mix in a touch of bonemeal, fishmeal, or both into the soil away from the roots each spring and then fertilise with nitrogen, or annually apply a little 10-10-10 slow-release fertiliser. Avoid using ‘regular’ fertiliser on Kiwi vines. Harvesting Kiwis As the flowers form into fruit – fruit set – and thereafter until the fruits are harvested, increased watering is beneficial. At this time the vine may be watered every other day. If you see an abundant setting of fruit or even abundant flowering (on the female vines, not the male vine), some thinning may be a good idea to ensure that the fruits you harvest are of the highest quality. Such thinning is dictated to a great extent by the cultivar; for example, ‘Hayward’ will benefit from it but ‘Issai’ will usually not need it. Where Kiwi in the UK is concerned, the best plan is to leave the fruit on the vine to mature (unless slugs or birds force your hand) through the autumn, aiming to pick it as late as possible. When the first ‘real’ frost is forecast, collect all the fruit. Kiwis will keep indefinitely in the fridge. If you have to ripen them, place them in a sunny spot in the kitchen or tightly wrap them in two or three layers of newspaper or cotton cloth. I would personally argue that Actinidia deliciosa – ‘Fuzzy Kiwi’ – eaten peeled and raw, is most enjoyable when the fruit (when pressed from around the peduncle attachment) does not feel at all soft, feels firm-to-hard, with about the firmness (or hardness) of a softwood branch. The flesh of such a fruit that feels raw to hand pressure will not only be just-ripe but will have a very appealing consistency that is not overly-soft or mushy but will have a bit of ‘bite’, and will be bursting with flavour – sweet, tart, and tangy all at once. Common Problems Kiwi plants are remarkably free of pests and diseases in the United Kingdom. If your garden or ground has any history of honey fungus, then you should avoid growing Kiwi as it is very susceptible to this dreadful plant disease. Other than that, the only real threat, such as it is, is from slugs. Even this will be precluded if your vine is on a sun-soaked wall or a type of trellis which cannot be navigated by these nuisance pests. Common Varieties Believe it or not, there are dozens of Kiwi varieties. In this section we present some of the most popular: A. deliciosa ‘Hayward’ A female vine that may just as well be called ‘Old Reliable’. The Kiwis that most of us have eaten and enjoyed are from this tried-and-trusted cultivar. It is by far the most abundant Kiwi cultivar in New Zealand and Italy’s plantations and is the only one used by California producers. It is not particularly high-yielding but the fruit is of top quality. The hen’s egg-sized fruit has green flesh that is sweet, tart, and tangy. You will need multiple ‘Hayward’ vines with one male vine to reap a good harvest of fruit. A. deliciosa ‘Bruno’ Has quite a misleading name, for this is a female vine. The fruit is of a dark brown colour and its ‘fuzz’ is a little bristlier than the fruits of ‘Hayward’. Compared to other female vines it is late to flower and, therefore, to fruit. While the fruit is of excellent quality this vine is also valued for being especially prolific. A. deliciosa ‘Jenny’ Renowned as a very robust climber that has particularly pretty foliage and even stems. This frost-tender vine produces fruits about the size of small eggs in mid-autumn. It is especially easy to grow as a compact, self-fertile cultivar that has proven itself. For a self-fertile vine it is comparatively high-yielding. Also, the fruit is of excellent quality as the flesh has a wonderful consistency and is on the sweet side. A. deliciosa ‘Atlas’ Considered to be the male cultivar of choice. It is a vigorous climber and produces blossoms through the summer. These creamy flowers display prominent golden-yellow stamens whose strong, sweet scent attracts bees and butterflies in droves. It pollinates all female A. deliciosa varieties. A. arguta ‘Issai’ For those UK residents who want to grow Kiwis but whose location makes growing traditional Fuzzy Kiwis a fraught undertaking. On the other hand, even if you live in Cornwall you may want to grow ‘Issai’ simply because you prefer the smaller, sweeter, non-fuzzy fruit of Hardy Kiwis. Be that as it may, this cultivar is so super-hardy that it can be grown in Norway. It is a very high-yielding vine, producing nearly a thousand fruits per season. On top of that, this is a self-fertile variety. References 1. Chinese gooseberry becomes kiwifruit. (1959, June 15). New Zealand History Online. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://nzhistory.govt.nz/the-chinese-gooseberry-becomes-the-kiwifruit 2. Actinidia chinensis var. deliciosa. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:60458895-2 3. Mahr, S. (n.d.-d). Kiwi fruit. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/kiwifruit-actinidia-spp/ 4. Gao, G., Slaughter, R., & Sherman, B. (2020, May 28). Kiwifruit and Hardy Kiwi (Kiwiberries). Ohioline. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-1426
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'It's Neither Melon Nor Cucumber' - How To Grow Cucamelons For Their Interesting Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Indoors Or Outdoors? How To Grow Cucamelon Plant Care Harvesting Cucamelon Common Problems References Though rising sharply in recognition, Central American Cucamelon is still an exotic rarity in the UK. This fast-growing disease-free climbing vine has attractive heart-shaped leaves, buttery-yellow flowers, and bears seriously cute teeny-weeny ‘mouse melons’. Somewhat cucumber-like and citrusy, they are crunchy and zesty raw, and impart a tangy taste to salads and salsas. What’s more, this plant provides a very ornamental ‘wall cover’. This fruiting vine is a head-turner – for sure, in the ranks of garden exotica, Central American Cucamelon is way up there. Overview Botanical Name Melothria scabra Common Name(s) Cucamelon, Mexican Sour Gherkin, Mouse Melon Plant Type Fruit / Vegetable / Climber Native Area Central America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Deciduous; lobed heart-shaped leaves Flowers Yellow When To Sow (Indoors) April, May Harvesting Months July, August, September As the fruit resembles a doll’s house melon in appearance while being similar to cucumbers in taste, you would likely think that Cucamelon is a cross between the two. Well, surprise! – it is neither melon nor cucumber. Cucamelon or Melothria scabra belongs to a genus of flowering vines. As it happens, M. scabra bears an edible (and very ornamental) fruit. However, Genus Melothria does fall under Family Cucurbitaceae which includes both cucumbers and melons. So maybe there’s something there!1 Cucamelon is known by various names, these being Mexican Sour Gherkin, Mexican Sour Cucumber, Mouse Melon, and ‘Sandita’ – Little Melon in Spanish. M. scabra is a deciduous fast-growing climber that will attain a height of 1-1.5M if grown as an annual, and 3M+ if grown as a perennial (by storing it dormant over the winter in the UK). The flowers, at only about 4mm, are nothing spectacular but are cheery in their own right – they are flat with five splayed petals and of a bright, buttery yellow. M. scabra is monoecious which means that the flowers (on the same plant) are either male or female.2 The male and female flowers of a monoecious plant pollinate amongst themselves. Among Cucamelon’s noteworthy attributes are that it is among the most pest-resistant and disease-free of vines, is fairly drought-resistant, and is very productive, even prolific. Habitat & Growing Conditions ‘Sandita’ grows in nature in a swath of land from Mexico down to Venezuela including most, though not all, regions of Central America.3 In its native range, it thrives in hot weather with temperatures hovering between 30-35°C. In its own habitat Cucamelon is a deciduous perennial though in British climes it is usually treated as an annual and that’s because it is frost-tender, hardy only to Zone H1C. That doesn’t mean you have to grow it as an annual; this vine can carefully be stored in a dormant state for the winter and re-planted in spring. Indoors Or Outdoors? As a bona fide two-for-one deal, Cucamelon climber not only serves up tasty treats, it also delivers ornamental bang-for-buck to the garden. While this Central American native must be grown in a sheltered location where it enjoys full sun, its ‘garden status’ as an interesting ornamental suggests that it should be in a position where it can see and be seen. “Although I’ve grown Cucamelon outdoors, it has only thrived in a polytunnel where the higher temperatures suit it far more than the vagaries of a UK summer,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The fruits are good to use in cocktails!” Though the straightforward and practical thing to do is to have this climbing vine run up a trellis or tomato cage, to take advantage of its decorative value grow it against the latticework of a summer house, or climbing up a shed or even a wall of your house. You could twine it around the post of a pergola. However, keep in mind that if it is tightly coiled around any upright, removing this delicate vine in late autumn for dormant storage will be very difficult; in such a case Cucamelon will have to be treated as an annual. Though harvesting and maintenance would be difficult, you could grow these vines in hanging baskets so that they cascade over and down the rim for another type of aesthetic appeal. How To Grow Cucamelon The popularity of Cucamelon is on the rise but it is certainly not a plant that you can walk into your neighbourhood nursery and expect to find. Nurseries that sell potted plants or bare-root vines are still few and far between. However, you will surely find some if you search online. The best option is to buy Cucamelon seeds – these are much more readily available, both at garden centres and also online. Though Cucamelon vines take their own sweet time to germinate, they are not particularly difficult to grow and care for, so seeds are really the way to go. Growing From Seed Cucamelon needs to be started indoors in the UK. About four weeks before the last predicted frost date for your location is the ideal time. Seeds should be sown in potting mix (which would include compost) in pots. Consider using biodegradable pots to make transplanting easy and risk-free as young Cucamelon roots are tender, and disturbance or damage may affect the growth and yield of the vine, or even kill it. Push seeds all the way into the soil with the pointed end facing up, one per pot. You’ll need to grow several of these vines to produce attractive ornamental cover and to yield a good harvest so plan on starting at least six, preferably a dozen, seedlings keeping in mind that you will likely lose a few. Germinate, and grow the seedlings indoors or in a greenhouse such that they get full sun and at a soil temperature of around 23-24°C. Though Cucamelon is a very fast grower after it is up and running, it takes rather a long time to get up and running! Be prepared to water patiently for two to three weeks while the seeds germinate. Optimal soil temperature will markedly speed up germination – as the seedlings grow, reduce the temperature to 20-21°C. Transplanting After there is no chance of frost it is time to transplant the vines outdoors. However, in the UK it would be prudent to harden them for a week to ten days before transplanting. If you grew your Cucamelons in biodegradable pots the job will be much easier and free of both any stress or risk. Space the growing vines 20-30cm apart. If you want to grow Cucamelon in regions of the UK where the weather is particularly cold or unpredictable, consider doing so in a planter big enough for a vine plus a support framework. This will give you the flexibility to shift the plant as the vagaries of the weather may dictate. Plant Care Soil Requirements The soil can be clay, loam or sand as long as it is free-draining. Though a soil pH from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline will do just fine, the ideal soil pH for Cucamelon is slightly acidic. The location in the garden should enjoy full sun but should also be sheltered from the wind. Feeding About ten days after transplanting you may fertilise the climber with a 5-10-10 vegetable fertiliser, especially if the soil is not very fertile. However, do not fertilise these sensitive vines as you would tomatoes or melons; apply fertiliser lightly and sparingly. Watering Water the vines moderately twice a week such that the soil stays moist but not wet. Water at soil level, not on the foliage. A drip system will be very suitable for this plant. Mulching around the vines, though not necessary, will be helpful, as it will deter weeds and also retain moisture. Plant Support Cucamelon need a support structure on which they can climb otherwise they will spread and creep untidily along the ground, with the attendant risk of slugs and rodents having an easy time with your fruit, and the fruit getting dirty or contaminated as well. Furthermore, such a support structure is also essential to maximise the decorative appeal of Cucamelon climbing vines. Practical options include a support structure of cane or bamboo, a trellis, or a tomato cage. Overwintering After the vine has ceased to bear fruit by late autumn, you can preserve your plant to flower again next spring. Gently disentwine the climber from the support structure, and remove it from the soil taking care not to damage the main fleshy root. Keep the root system in only slightly moist compost and store for the winter in an above-ground room such as a shed that will be protected from frost. In mid-spring, plant the vine outdoors again. Fertilise it a week or ten days after planting it out. Harvesting Cucamelon Cucamelon vines will produce fruit from mid-summer to mid-autumn. Fruits form at the base of the female flowers. Timing is important in picking these fruits so that they’re at their best. Cucamelon must be harvested early, as soon as it is ready. Sure, you don’t want to pick these fruits when they’re pea-sized but you don’t want to delay either, otherwise they lose that light, refreshing, and succulent mouthfeel and become tough or dense and unenjoyable, and also develop large seeds. So how do you know just when to pick Cucamelons? The fruit will form just below the flower, which will wither as the fruit develops. The fruit is ready for picking when it is right around an inch long and firm – neither hard nor soft – and there is no more flower. Guideline aside, it’s really not a great mystery – a little experimentation and you’ll have it down within days. What you do need to do without fail is that after the flowers appear, monitor the vines for pickable fruit every other day or even on a daily basis. Snip off the fruits with a pair of secateurs; avoid trying to pull them off as the vines are delicate. Harvesting will go very smoothly if you have those secateurs in one hand and a bowl in the other. You can store Cucamelons in the fridge’s crisper but for no more than three or four days. Common Problems Cucamelon vine is well known to be pest-resistant and disease-free. On occasion, a vine may get powdery mildew or aphids. Powdery mildew can be avoided by watering at soil level and ensuring that the plant is not closed-in by trees, other plants, or structures so that it can enjoy good air circulation. Though aphids only infrequently attack Cucamelon, they are among the most dangerous of pests as they are hard to control because of how very rapidly they breed. You can either get and release ladybugs and lacewings at the site of the infestation or clean it and spray it with insecticidal soap, which is an organic product. Do not attempt both methods in conjunction because soap will put off ladybugs and lacewings. References 1. Melothria. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30043481-2 2. Melothria scabra. (n.d.). School of Horticulture Plant Database. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plantdatabase.kpu.ca/plant/plantDetail/1774 3. S. (n.d.-f). Mouse Melon or Mexican Sour Cucumber, Melothria scabra. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/mouse-melon-or-mexican-sour-cucumber-melothria-scabra/
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Overgrown Ivy Can Become Problematic - Consider These Ideas To Control Its Growth
IN THIS GUIDE How Does Ivy Work? Tolerating Ivy When Ivy Becomes Problematic First – How Not To Get Rid Of Ivy How To Kill Overgrown Ivy Advice From A Master Horticulturist References Ivy is famous for its ability to climb, whether on rocks, structures, or even other trees. The roots of the word ivy come from a proto-Indo-European word that translates as “to grasp”, making it a very good and apt description of the plant’s tendency to take hold and go wild. Ivy is prone to grow in a surprising array of places How Does Ivy Work? Ivy grows on the ground until it finds a suitable surface to climb. At this point, a surprisingly complicated process kicks into action. For many years botanists thought that ivy created a glue-like substance to attach itself to surfaces, but it actually goes a lot deeper.1 Firstly, the plant comes into contact with the surface it will climb. Then, the roots change shape to fit the surface. At this stage, the roots aim to expand outwards as much as possible; increasing the amount of contact they have with the surface in question. Then, a glue-like substance is excreted, and small hairs on the root fit into tiny holes on the surface. When they dry out, they scrunch up and lock themselves firmly into the crevice. With this process taking place many times on each surface, ivy builds a strong attachment that can be hard to dislodge. Because of the way the mechanism works, it keeps a strong hold even when the plant is dead, too, meaning that you can’t simply kill the plant and pull it down. So, with that in mind, you may be wondering how to kill and get rid of overgrown ivy? Tolerating Ivy Let’s start with something a little less drastic. Here we’ll outline the times and places that ivy can be tolerated. The first step here is busting the myth that ivy strangles the trees it grows on, hindering their ability to grow. It doesn’t.2 Unlike parasitic plants like mistletoe, ivy only uses trees for support, rather than penetrating their bark and leeching resources.3 Ivy has its own root system beneath the ground, and gets the water and nutrients it requires from there. So seeing ivy crawling up a tree trunk isn’t an automatic cause for concern. Instead, keep an eye on things and see how they progress. When Ivy Becomes Problematic If ivy starts to smother a tree trunk or prevent light from making its way through the canopy, it can be problematic. This can hinder the photosynthesis of the leaves whose light is being blocked, which prevents the tree from generating its required nutrients. It can also be an issue when it comes to evaluating a tree for safety, as ivy can cover up structural damage, making it harder to see what’s going on underneath. If you’ve got ivy growing on an old tree that’s more prone to damage, you may want to consider removing it so that the tree’s health can be accurately assessed. Ivy also has the potential to hold fungal spores that may cause damage to the tree underneath. Some rodents and pests shelter in ivy as well, leading to another potential source of strife for the tree. First – How Not To Get Rid Of Ivy One thing you should never do is just grab ivy from a tree trunk and give it a good, hard yank. As we mentioned earlier, ivy has a very sophisticated means of attaching itself to surfaces, meaning that if you just grab and pull, it’s quite likely that you’ll strip some of the bark along with the ivy. Removing bark from trees exposes the tissue underneath, making it much more vulnerable to attack and infection. See how many different attachment points there are? If you’ve got ivy that you’re concerned is causing damage and needs to go, here are a few ways to remove it. How To Kill Overgrown Ivy The steps for removal differ slightly depending on where the ivy is growing. In this section, we’ll give instructions for removing ivy on walls, trees, and the ground. Ivy Growing On Walls We’ll start by emphasising that ivy doesn’t cause damage to sound masonry. This means that if your brickwork is in good condition, the mechanism ivy uses to cling and grow will not cause damage. If this is the main reason you’re considering removing the ivy, you may want to reconsider. If not, here’s what you need to do – Try non-weedkiller control methods first, as they’re usually more forgiving on the environment. Cut stems back as close to ground level as possible, and dig out the woody stump at the base of the ivy plant. This isn’t always possible; it depends on where the ivy is growing. If you can’t get to it, trimming can help keep things is in check but is unlikely to kill the plant. If this doesn’t work, sever the stem and use a weed killer designed specifically for stumps and roots. Often these are based on chemicals like glyphosate or triclopyr. Be careful when using weedkillers as the chemicals involved are very potent. When the ivy has been successfully killed, you can peel the plant from the walls and surfaces it’s grown on. Again, be careful as the tendrils are still anchored in fairly firmly. Pull gently and don’t be afraid to switch to a brush or scraper if needed. Ivy Growing On Trees The steps are largely the same, except with the caveat that you shouldn’t pull the dead ivy away. If you’re not concerned about the aesthetics of the dead ivy you can leave it on the tree, safe in the knowledge that it won’t cause any more problems. Overgrown Ivy On The Ground Ivy is an enthusiastic grower on the ground as well as up vertical surfaces. If you’ve got ivy crawling around at ground level and you’d like to keep it in check, here’s what to do – Dig up as many of the stems and as much of the root as possible. Take a look at the weedkillers mentioned above, taking special care not to let other plants come into contact. You can ruffle the ivy leaves with a rake or similar tool to damage their surface, giving weedkiller more of an opportunity to soak through (the leaves in their natural state are quite lacquered, making them fairly resistant to moisture). If the ivy is growing in a spot you’re not planning to use for growing other plants, you can cover it over with carpet or a thick layer of bark mulch for a couple of growing seasons. This will prevent the plant from getting the sunlight it needs to survive, ensuring a slow but certain death. Ivy at ground level is attractive but relentless Saltwater & Duct Tape One method for killing ivy that you’ll see mentioned fairly often is to slit the root, then use duct tape or similar waterproof tape to create a cone-like structure around it. With the slit contained you can pour saline solution (water + salt) into the cone, which will gradually enter into the root system and damage the ivy. Simultaneous and repeated applications of this treatment can eventually kill the plant. Advice From A Master Horticulturist One of the most important things to keep in mind with ivy is that often, it isn’t causing as much damage as you might initially think. The common misconception that ivy strangles trees and drains their nutrients, for example, is wrong. It’s only if ivy is growing on masonry in poor condition, or if it’s threatening gutters or similar accoutrements. So, if you’re considering killing ivy, take a step back first to evaluate whether it’s really the best course of action. “Ivy is a valuable resource for garden life, both as habitat and as a source later summer flower resource for pollinators,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “The approach I take is to manage ivy growth. Allowed to run its course, it can add to the wind ‘sail’ of a tree or shrub in winter, and when removed it takes away a valuable resource for garden wildlife. “I seek to sever the stems of one-third of established stems as close to the base of trees and shrubs as I can. “I don’t poison as it will take some time for the ivy to re-establish significantly. This achieves a balance between controlling a potential problem and retaining a resource for wildlife.” Whichever method you go for, we hope that this guide has been useful in helping you to conceptualise the problem and find the right answer. References 1. Roots Attach Firmly: English Ivy. (n.d.). AskNature. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://asknature.org/strategy/roots-attach-firmly/ 2. Patch, D. (n.d.). Ivy: Boon or Bane? Trees in Focus. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.trees.org.uk/Trees.org.uk/files/f0/f0e3a76b-926f-4cde-b703-417563ae93df.pdf 3. Ivy (Hedera helix) – British Wildflowers. (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/plants/wild-flowers/ivy/
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