Growing
Grow Ipomoea Alba ‘Moonflower Vine’ For Breathtaking Flowers In The Evening
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Growing From Seed Ipomoea Alba Care Light Temperature & Humidity Preferred Soil & Drainage Watering Feeding Pruning Common Issues References There are two plants that go by the name moonflower, so let’s make sure you’re reading about the right one. The Ipomoea alba is a wild-growing vine and can grow to enormous heights. Its flowers open at dusk, bloom in the night, and then die in the morning to be replaced again the next afternoon. The other plant, Datura innoxia, grows to a smaller height and its flowers don’t die each day. In this article, we will be focusing on the first: the moonflower vine. Overview Botanical Name Ipomoea alba Common Name(s) Moonflower / belle de nuit Plant Type Annual Climber Native Area North & South America and the Caribbean Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Coiled white petals that unfurl to reveal white circular shape When To Plant All year round (when cultivated indoors) When To Prune September-February One of the joys of gardening is selecting flowers that work well together in terms of colour, bloom time, and other factors to create lasting variety and visual interest. You can liven up a medley of colour by putting it against a backdrop of white, for example; or pick a few plants that flower in winter to extend your season interest. You can also look for plants that flower at different times of day, with the moonflower vine, I. alba, being a fine example of a flower whose bloom is most breathtaking in the evening and through the night. This plant makes a great addition to gardens that play host to evening gatherings, whether they be barbecues or bonfires. As a native to more tropical climes, the moonflower vine does grow best in warm temperatures, but British gardeners are able to get good results by growing it as an annual. “Ipomoea alba is a perennial in its native tropical Americas but a warm season annual in the UK (it dies off because of winter cold not because of its life cycle),” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I love trying to grow plants from warmer regions in the UK. In a long, hot summer you can get great results. “It can be challenging if the summer is unsettled by colder and wetter weather but that makes the joy when it comes off even more euphoric!” Growing From Seed Growing moonflower vines from seed is possible, and in British conditions, it’s recommended you plant them between 6-8 weeks ahead of outdoor planting. You can plant outdoors when temperatures are consistently over 15°C, so aim to sow in late March to early April to plant in late May or early June. Scratch the exterior of the seed with a knife or sandpaper, taking care to not damage the inside. Soak the seed for a couple of hours in warm water. Once the seed swells, plant it between 5-7mm below the surface of moist but well-drained seed compost. To propagate, these seeds need temperatures between 20-25°C. It can take anywhere from 5-45 days for propagation, although the lower end of this range is most likely. Move to a pot once the seedlings are established and make sure it’s big enough to accommodate their growth. If you’re growing outside, wait until the last frost has passed and remember what we said about temperatures being consistently over 15°C. Alternatively you can grow in a conservatory or greenhouse. Is It Invasive? This plant is considered invasive in some more tropical regions. In the UK it can be borderline invasive, so make sure to keep an eye on how far your plant is spreading. Ipomoea Alba Care Once your moonflower is established, it’s a fairly undemanding plant. It’s always good to know how to keep your plants in tip-top condition though, so here are some Ipomoea alba care guidelines to help you out. Light It’ll be happy growing in full sun or partial shade, but as a general rule more sun increases the number of blooms you’ll get from a mature moonflower. Temperature & Humidity Being native to warmer regions of North America, South America and the Caribbean, this plant is built to thrive in higher temperatures.1 Growers in warm climates will be treated to a perennial growth habit, whereas British gardeners are most likely to have an annual moonflower. An outdoor temperature above 15°C is most conducive to a healthy plant. Preferred Soil & Drainage Go for moist, well-drained soil for best results. Chalk, sand or loam soils should be suitable for a moonflower, with seed compost for germination. Watering Water regularly when plants are young and keep your moonflower hydrated as it grows. This plant can grow to impressive heights and so requires plenty of water to satiate its thirst! Feeding A high phosphorus fertiliser will correlate with a more luscious floral bloom, whereas high nitrogen fertiliser may reduce the number of flowers – instead stimulating the growth of more foliage. Check the instructions for the fertiliser to see whether it needs diluting. Pruning As an annual, you can prune this plant back after the flowering season to give space for next year’s plant to grow. Bear in mind, however, that I. alba puts forth attractive and intriguing seed pods after flowering, and some gardeners decide to keep these plants around a little longer so they can enjoy these seeds. As an enthusiastic grower, you may find yourself wanting to trim back your moonflower vine throughout its flowering season to keep it looking tidy and organised. This is fine, just be careful not to prune back too aggressively. Common Issues Moonflowers aren’t known to be particularly prone to any diseases, meaning they should give you a fairly low amount of hassle. There are a few insects to keep an eye out for, however, including aphids, spider mites and leaf beetles. Here’s how to reduce the risk of an infestation: Be vigilant: inspect the leaves of your moonflower vine every once in a while to make sure there are no insects visible, or any telltale signs of their presence (eg. holes in leaves, residue on their underside, or even eggs). Keep an eye on surrounding plants: pests are liable to make the jump between plants that live close together, so if a neighbouring plant is playing host to some pests, be extra vigilant. Remove infected areas if they are small. Removing insects by hand is sometimes enough to nip things in the bud. Just take care to check back regularly. Introduce predatory species, as bringing ladybirds or other insects into your garden can sometimes keep infestations at bay. Consider insecticides: if none of these options are working you may think about using insecticide products to kill the imposters, but just check the ingredients. Not all gardeners are thrilled about strong chemicals being used in their gardens! References 1. Rojas-Sandoval, J. (2022). Ipomoea alba (white moonflower ). CABI Compendium, CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.119823
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Why Climbing And Rambling Roses Need Different Pruning Treatment To Normal Types
IN THIS GUIDE Why Should You Prune Climbing Roses? What Happens If You Don’t? When To Prune Climbing Roses Routine Pruning Pruning Neglected & Overgrown Climbing Roses Aftercare Climbing roses are an ideal option for adding architectural intrigue and irresistible colour to a vertical surface – but they do require training and pruning. This is to ensure that they maintain a healthy and aesthetically pleasing form, as well as continue to flower prolifically each year. “Climbing and rambling roses need different treatment to normal roses,” Stewart from Pocock’s Roses explains. While some people entertain notions that pruning is a difficult endeavour, it needn’t be. In fact, as long as you stay on top of your pruning duties and follow the instructions laid out below, you should find that pruning your climbing rose plant is no more challenging than any other routine horticultural task. Why Should You Prune Climbing Roses? The main reason for pruning climbing roses is aesthetics. These plants are not self-clinging and will require a support system to hold them up, such as a trellis or a network of horizontal twine or wire to which they can be affixed. “Climbers, once established, which can take 2-3 years, need some of the oldest stems to be removed to promote new supple growth to tie into the shape you want,” says Ben Stirton, the nursery manager at Country Garden Roses. But it’s not enough to just set and forget your climbing rose plant. They also require regular maintenance to make sure their arrangement is neat and tidy and they’re as happy and healthy as can be. By trimming back the side shoots of your plant once a year and reaffixing stems to the support structure behind it you will encourage the plant to grow in the direction you wish. This makes for a more visually pleasing plant and allows you to ensure the vertical surface that the roses are climbing has good coverage. Of course, the health of the plant is every bit as important as its image, and pruning helps to redirect resources away from dead or extraneous stems towards new growth. For these reasons, it is advisable to deadhead roses regularly during the blooming season and prune back the side shoots once a year. What Happens If You Don’t? If you don’t prune back climbing roses because you’re too busy, physically incapable of doing so or simply forget, don’t worry. It’s not the end of the world and probably not even the end of your plant, but it will almost certainly result in a less impressive display. In aesthetic terms, it’s likely that your rose branches will become congested and jumbled, leading to weak stems and poor bloom yields. With more energy being devoted to twiggy growth, the plant will have less in reserve for blossoms. Given that roses are prized primarily for their pretty flowers, this can render their cultivation slightly pointless. More concerningly, an overgrown climbing rose plant can see branches cross over one another and inhibit the flow of nutrients to their extremities. This can prompt dieback in some areas of the plant and weaken its overall health, making it more vulnerable to fungal infections and diseases. With that in mind, it’s just good practice to give your plant the best opportunity to thrive and produce consistently stunning displays by pruning it regularly. When To Prune Climbing Roses For starters, it’s important to remember that all new plants need time to establish themselves. This means that you shouldn’t prune climbing roses for the first two or three years of their life, because doing so could jeopardise their long-term development. Like most roses, established plants should be pruned in wintertime. “Training and pruning climbers in late September to November is good,” says Philip Harkness, owner of Harkness Roses. Indeed, the only type of rose which shouldn’t be pruned while dormant is the rambling rose, which unfortunately can resemble the climbing rose quite strongly. To differentiate between the two, simply note their blooming times. Rambling roses just produce a single tranche of blossoms, normally around June, while climbing roses will repeat flower all through the summer. The reasons why you should prune climbing roses in winter are twofold: On the one hand, a plant which is not overcrowded with flowers and foliage will represent an easier and more accessible canvas upon which you can work. On the other, pruning while dormant facilitates the plant’s regeneration the following spring when it can divert resources to the parts which require them most. Routine Pruning As mentioned above, deadheading is essential to ensure you get the maximum yield during the blooming season. You should keep a close eye on your plant and swoop in to remove old blooms after they have flowered to encourage new ones to replace them. However, this alone is not sufficient to maintain a healthy and impressive-looking plant. The following steps should be followed once per year, during late autumn or early winter once the plant is in hibernation for the colder months. Remember to always wear thick protective gloves and goggles to keep your hands and face safe from the vicious thorns of the plant. 1) Cut Away Dead Branches Identify any diseased, dying or dead branches and cut them off at the base. This will ease the congestion of branches and prevent the plant from expending any resources on useless endeavours. 2) Find Weak Offshoots Look for weak offshoots which will be unable to support blooms and prune these back all the way to the main stem, as well. Again, this is to conserve the plant’s energy and nutrients for the parts which will benefit most from them. 3) Prune To Improve Growth Now it’s time to prune the plant to improve its growth going forwards. You’ll want to leave the main, thick stems which sprout from the plant’s base alone altogether. Instead, search out the side shoots which grow off from these stems, as Chris Styles from Style Roses shares: “For climbers, leave the main, trained stems on the plant but cut back anything old & gnarly to the base every few years to trigger some new main shoots,” he says. “Cut back side shoots coming off the main trained stems in winter to a couple of inches.” When pruning a side stem, you should leave around 5cm remaining of the stem, which should contain 4-5 healthy buds. The incision should occur just above a bud which is pointing in the direction that you wish the plant to grow. For example, avoid cutting above a bud which is facing the path, a bench or the end of the support structure, since this will only encourage growth in that direction. 4) Tie To Support Structure After pruning, you will notice that the support system is bare in some places where you have removed dead, dying, diseased or weak stems and that there are new, strong stems which remain unattached. You can solve both of these problems by tying the new stems to the newly vacant areas on your support structure. You can do this using twine or flexi ties. In both cases, it’s advisable to wrap around the support structure first and the plant second, in order to avoid damaging the latter and improve the overall stability of the structure. And voila! The pruning is complete and the plant will flourish once more when springtime rolls around. Pruning Neglected & Overgrown Climbing Roses If you are tending climbing roses which have been neglected and become overgrown as a result, a more vigorous approach is required. You will essentially be following the aforementioned steps, but with a more ruthless remit. Firstly, all dead and dying shoots must be removed as a matter of course. You should then look to attack the main framework of stems more aggressively, cutting back some of the woodier branches right back to the base. Leave around 6 healthy stems which can be affixed to the support structure. Dead stumps at the base of the plant must be thoroughly sawed off to leave them flat. Any hollows can collect rainwater, which increases the chances that your plant will suffer from rot. You should also thin out the remaining branches by pruning back their own side shoots to within one-third of their original length. This will encourage branching and lead to a healthier and more shapely plant going forwards. “O am often called upon to revive ailing climbing roses,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Often, this is the result of a lack of pruning, leading to a mass of tangled stems and a poorly flowering rose. “Pruning out a third of the oldest stems and pruning back side stems to one-third of their length is a good rule of thumb. This will get you back to a starting point for ongoing annual pruning that will produce neat free flowering climbing roses.” Aftercare The above steps should be practised on an annual basis to ensure your plant remains in robust condition. Deadheading, pruning and training will demand your attention for each year the plant is in your care. Additionally, you can give the plant a boost with artificial assistance. Each spring, sprinkle granular rose fertiliser on the soil and cover it over with a 5cm layer of organic mulch. This will ward off fungal infections and enhance the plant’s overall wellbeing.
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Clematis Pros Share 100 Years Of Growing Experience In This Ultimate Guide
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Planting Clematis Ongoing Clematis Care References Clematis is said to be the queen of all climbers – there is clematis available to suit many different spots and a huge array of different options to choose from. Learn more about these climbers and how to grow them in this guide. For this guide we interviewed FIVE professionals with over 100 years of Clematis growing experience between them! Our experts include: Ken Black – Membership Secretary of the British Clematis Society and a member of the International Clematis Society. Marcel Floyd – Owner of Floyds Climbers and Clematis. Peter Skeggs-Gooch – Owner of specialist nursery Thorncroft Clematis. Fraser Wescott – Owner of Walled Garden Nursery, a clematis specialist. Fiona Woolfenden – Secretary of the International Clematis Society. We feel privileged to have been able to learn so much from these four specialists – and we’re excited to share what we learned below. “What I love about clematis plants is that they come in all shapes and sizes, from little nodding bells to large saucer-shaped flowers in a myriad of colours,” says Marcel. Overview Botanical Name Clematis Plant Type Climber Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5/6 Foliage Various Flowers Various When To Plant March-April or September-October When To Prune Varies based on cultivar (usually after flowering) Clematis, a genus within the Ranunculaceae family, has nearly 400 different species, and many garden hybrids have been developed from these species.1 This cultivation has produced a huge range of options for gardeners, and there are now clematis with huge variations which suit a range of different conditions. “Clematis is the most versatile genus I know,” argues Ken Black. “By selecting varieties from different groups, they will extend range of colour and height to any garden and provide flowers throughout the year, even in the depths of winter.” Clematis has become prized for its ability to scramble up walls, fences, trellis and other support structures, and many are well-known ornamental plants. The horticultural classification of clematis is a complicated thing. But generally, clematis is divided into small-flowered groups, and both early and late large-flowered groups. “This is a genus that has varieties growing to only a few inches or monsters attaining 20-30 feet in a season,” says Fraser. “There is a clematis for all seasons and all situations.” The large-flowered groups are extremely popular in gardens. These are mostly believed to be hybrids involving crosses of C. lanuginosa, C. patens and C. viticella. Common Varieties “There are so many clematis varieties that there’s something for almost every place you can think of in the garden,” says Peter Skeggs-Gooch. “Their versatile nature and abundance of colours mean we have a lot of options when it comes to fulfilling our gardening needs.” More than 80 different clematis varieties have gained the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Here are some common varieties to consider which have received this accolade: Small-Flowered Clematis ‘Abundance’ (Viticella) ‘Arabella’ (Integrifolia) ‘Bill MacKenzie’ (Tangutica) C. montana var. grandiflora ‘Constance’ ‘Elizabeth’ ‘Etoile violette’ ‘Freckles’ ‘Markham’s Pink’ ‘Tetrarose’ Early Large-Flowered Clematis ‘Daniel Deronda’ ‘Fujimusume’ ‘Ken Donson’ ‘Marie Boisselot’ ‘Mrs Cholmondeley’ ‘Mrs George Jackman’ ‘Nelly Moser’ ‘Niobe’ ‘The President’ ‘Wesselton’ Late Large-Flowered Clematis ‘Blekitny Aniol’ ‘Comtesse de Bouchard’ ‘Ernest Markham’ ‘Gillian Blades’ ‘Gipsy Queen’ ‘Jackmanii’ ‘Jacqueline du Pre’ ‘Polish Spirit’ ‘Prince Charles’ ‘Zohapbi’ “The plant I couldn’t live without would have to be my Clematis ‘Wisley’,” shares Janice Shipp, Garden Writer. “It’s a beauty and every year I’m amazed by how big it gets and how many flowers it has. I can sit on my rocking bench and admire it for weeks on end and I would really miss it if it wasn’t there.” For those just starting out with growing clematis, Peter has some apt suggestions: “There is one group of clematis that are very forgiving and excellent for beginners…” “They are called the ‘Viticella’ and they are late summer flowering and very prolific in the quantity of flowers they produce, they also require less attention than many clematis because of their natural vigour. Ken Black agrees: ‘Ville de Lyon’ “Viticellas can be planted in a variety of garden situations and they come in many different shades, size and shape of flower. “They are fairly disease resistant and when hard pruned each spring, down to about 3 feet, will provide an abundance of flowers.” “Viticella group Clematis are a firm favourite of mine in the garden,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The first Clematis I ever grew was ‘Etoile violette’ and it is still going strong despite being moved a few times. “Once established, they are simple to grow and prune and give plenty of floral rewards with minimal effort.” Planting Clematis “Clematis are often portrayed as all having the same habits and growing needs, but this is not true,” says Ken Black. “They originate from many parts of the world largely, though not exclusively, from the northern hemisphere. “Access to information about what conditions are best suited to each group is therefore important if you want to get the best out of this wonderful range of plants.” Most Clematis will grow best in a sunny or partly shaded spot and will not flower as well in a deeply shaded location. The idea is usually to keep the roots cool and moist, so a position which allows for light shade at ground level but provides plenty of sun for the growing plant is usually ideal. However, there are cultivars which can be chosen to suit any spot, be it a shady wall, or one that is particularly bright and sunny. Herbaceous types usually require a position in full sun, and some clematis, including winter and spring flowering types, need a sheltered position since they are not so hardy. Of course, climbers like clematis will need some kind of support, be it other plants, a free-standing trellis or other structure, or a support structure on a wall or fence. It is important to think about how you will support your clematis before you decide where exactly to place it. We’ll discuss your options for supporting climbers like clematis a little later in this guide. Many clematis also work well in containers. How To Plant The first stage in planting clematis is preparing your planting area and supporting structures. You need to be aware of the growing requirements of your clematis (covered below). “A good depth is required to accommodate a couple of forks full of rotted compost or manure and to allow the root ball of the clematis to be planted about 2-3 inches deeper than the original level in its pot,” explains Peter from Thorncroft Clematis. Clematis is planted somewhat differently depending on what type you are growing. Large-flowered types are planted with the top of the rootball 5-7.5cm below the surface of the soil. This can be beneficial in allowing the plant to recover if infected with clematis wilt and it encourages the growth of new shoots from below ground level. Other clematis types are planted with the top of the rootball only just below the surface of the soil. Whichever type of clematis you are planting, it is important to make sure, when planting close to a wall or fence, that the planting hole is beyond the rain shadow of the structure, as Ken Black explains: “When planting a clematis to grow up a wall, don’t plant it too close to the structure because the base of the wall will be dry and the clematis will not receive enough moisture. Plant it at least 3 feet away.” If you are planting clematis to climb a tree or shrub, it is best to plant it on the side from which winds most frequently approach. That way, the climber’s stems will be blown towards the trunk or branches rather than away from them. Clematis should usually be placed at least 1.2m away from the base of the supporting plant to avoid excessive competition for nutrients and water. When growing clematis in pots, remember to think about support and make sure that if the support is in the container, the container is large and heavy enough that it will not be knocked or blown over. Photo of Clematis ‘Evipo099’ part of a Chelsea Gold Medal exhibit by Thorncroft Clematis in 2019. Any clematis containers should be at least 45cm in depth and width. Plant your clematis in the container with a peat-free, soil-based potting compost. Ongoing Clematis Care Soil Conditions Clematis can tolerate a wide variety of soils and soil conditions, but they will tend to thrive most when planted in a deep, fertile, and moist but free-draining soil or medium. “There are a lot of clematis varieties with fine root systems, and they can be prone to ‘wetting off’ in the winter,” explains Peter. “Soil drainage can also be important for certain cultivars, so you should pay close attention to the root system when you take the pot off and, if the roots are very fine and fibrous, then free-draining conditions will be preferred.” If your soil is not optimal (if it is heavy clay, for example) or very light and sandy, adding plenty of organic matter prior to planting will help yield better results. Light Requirements Clematis will vary in their light requirements. As mentioned above, some are better in sun and some in partial shade, though flowering will always tend to be diminished in deep shade. As a general rule of thumb, remember that it is usually best to keep the roots in light shade and allow the plants to grow in full sun. This is important when growing in containers as well as growing in the ground, so add other low-growing companion plants around the base or add mulches to keep the roots cool. Watering Clematis tend to be rather fussy about soil moisture and will suffer if the soil or growing medium is allowed to dry out. Make sure that you water well, especially during dry periods until plants are well established. Remember that clematis growing in containers will need to be watered more frequently than those growing in the ground. When watering clematis, make sure that you give the plants a deep soaking. The soil or growing medium should be thoroughly soaked to around 30cm in depth. For plants growing in the ground, this might represent at least four watering cans worth of water per square metre. Thinking about how you will harvest rainwater to meet watering needs is a very good idea when growing these thirsty plants. Temperature & Humidity Clematis vary in their temperature requirements as some are hardier than others. However, most clematis plants will appreciate a warm and sheltered spot, with relatively high humidity, especially around the base of the plants. Mulching For Cool Roots Marcel from Floyd’s Climber & Clematis thinks that creating shade at the base of clematis’ roots is one of the most important care factors, as this helps to keep the roots cool. Mulching is one way to do this. A garden compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mould can be ideal, since these will not only keep roots cool and help conserve moisture but will also provide slow-release nutrients to the plants. Fertilising In addition to adding organic mulch around the base of the clematis for fertility, it is also a good idea to add a potassium-rich organic fertiliser around the base of the plant in early spring each year to encourage good flowering, as Ken explains: “Feeding is optional, but the quality and number of flowers can be improved by providing additional nutrition.” Container-grown clematis should also be fed with a multi-purpose organic liquid feed during the spring and summer around once a month. Supporting Support is important for clematis plants and choosing the right option can help you achieve the best and most pleasing results. There are many options which are both practical and aesthetically appealing. For example, you might grow clematis: Up an existing tree or shrub Against a wall or fence On a wall, fence-mounted, or free-standing trellis Over an archway, arbour, pergola or other garden structure Up a pillar or obelisk Some climbing clematis can twine naturally around their supports, but it is a good idea to carefully tie in the stems to your support to make sure they are secure and spread out more evenly over the structure and flower better. Use natural twine and secure the stems using a loose figure of eight knots. Pruning Different types of clematis require different pruning care, as Ken reminds us: “Each year I am invited to talk with garden clubs and one of the most common issues raised is pruning. This is not a difficult subject if you know the name of a clematis. “Too often, however, the plant label has been lost and the name is forgotten.” Vigorous growers and early-flowering species generally need no pruning at all, though occasionally tangled growth may need to be thinned or removed. Early flowering large-flowered clematis types are generally pruned lightly in the dormant period to improve their structure. Late-flowering large-flowered clematis is also usually pruned during the dormant period, and the current season’s growth is generally pruned back to a pair of buds. If you are unsure about which pruning group your clematis falls into, you can follow this simple rule: If clematis bloom before June, do not prune. “By remembering this, you are not going to cut off the buds of a clematis that is about to flower early in the year and has formed its buds before becoming dormant for the winter,” explains Ken. “Any clematis that should flower from June onwards will still do so even if you might have been more heavy-handed than you need to have been.” If they bloom later, prune in late winter (I find that February is the best month to do so). Propagation Clematis can be propagated from semi-ripe cuttings taken between spring and late summer. In warm and humid conditions they should usually root within a couple of months. These cuttings should be potted up into individual pots the following spring and should flower within two years. Clematis with long, flexible stems can also be propagated by layering (looping stems below the soil to encourage new roots to form on the buried sections). After 1-2 years, new roots should have formed and the stems can be severed from the parent. References 1. Clematis. (n.d.-c). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved May 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:329401-2#children
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26 Vigorous Climbing Plants And Vines That Are Well Suited To Trellis Growing
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Common Ivy 2) Wisteria 3) Climbing Rose 4) Clematis 5) Climbing Hydrangea 6) Honeysuckle 7) Chocolate Vine 8) Nasturtium 9) Star Jasmine 10) Winter Creeper 11) American Wild Climbing Rose 12) Everlasting Pea 13) Virginia Creeper 14) Common Jasmine 15) Hardy Kiwi 16) Multi-Leaved Akebia 17) Kolomikta 18) Boston Ivy 19) Russian Vine 20) Grape Vine 21) Trumpet Vine 22) Potato Vine 23) Potato Tree 24) Hops 25) Crimson Glory Vine 26) Chinese Virginia Creeper References Underneath we present an assortment of fantastic climbers that will adorn your trellis, pergola, or any other structure. Many wonderful climbing vines hail from tropical regions and are tender so we have excluded those from our list, preferring relatively hardy and perennial options. This list is full of brilliant trellis plants for expansive growth that are suitable for British climates. 1) Common Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: Hedera helix COMMON NAME(S): Common Ivy / English Ivy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): Winter SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Partial Shade / Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Though you would almost surely have English Ivy climbing up the side of your two-storey dwelling and not a little trellis, we must start with this plant for the sake of tradition and in recognition of it as a quintessential feature of stately British homes and gardens. All the numerous varieties are hardy evergreens and will grow in any type of soil and in any position with any aspect. Most ivies are not only vigorous climbers but are massive in height and breadth. Those that are not have lovely variegated foliage in greens, golds, yellows, or cream, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains in more detail: “Many variegated or other-then-green ivy cultivars will send out reverted stems and new growth that reverts to the species type. “This will usually be more vigorous than the cultivar and will outcompete it. “When spotted, cut reverted stems right back to where it arose from the non-reverted part of the plant.” They’re not simply about tradition, the evergreen, broad-leaved, glossy, fuss-free English Ivy is unquestionably a big statement for your garden. 2) Wisteria BOTANICAL NAME: Wisteria COMMON NAME(S): Chinese Wisteria HARDINESS RATING: H5 / H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered From over a hundred varieties of these very popular twining vines, all are fully hardy at H5 or better, and most are widely available. Take your pick from varieties that grow to only 6m or those that grow to 16m, those that display foliage for the greater part of the year, or go all out with foliage and flowers for one season. They also have plentiful flowers, with lush, pendent racemes in gradated pastel pinks and purples that exude a heady fragrance. If you can provide a wisteria vine with a sheltered spot and with well-drained soil that is kept moist, you can enjoy its soothing charms for up to 20 years. 3) Climbing Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa setigera COMMON NAME(S): Climbing Rose HARDINESS RATING: H6 / H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; Neutral / Alkaline pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Imagine – proper roses growing over your trellis! Climbing roses are fully hardy deciduous perennials with a few evergreens thrown in. Cultivars range in height from 1-8m. All they need is rich, fertile soil and regular watering, perhaps a bit of training, and they’ll bloom for 4 or 5 months straight. Colours include creams, yellows, reds, and blush and tinged tones, and, as you may expect, the vast majority are sweetly fragrant. Cultivars number over a hundred but ‘Aloha,’ ‘Climbing Handel,’ ‘New Dawn,’ ‘Debutante,’ ‘Alister Stella Gray,’ ‘Climbing Iceberg’ and ‘Etoile de Hollande’ are our top picks. 4) Clematis BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis COMMON NAME(S): Traveller’s Joy HARDINESS RATING: H6 (with variation) FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn (with variation) SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; Neutral / Alkaline pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Clematis are arguably the most beautiful vines but some of these deciduous perennials are clothed in green for fewer than three seasons. These shortish but robust climbers usually produce flowers in the summer while some do so in spring or autumn, additionally or exclusively. All are fully hardy and few have any special requirements. Clematis’ wide-open, star-shaped flowers are very varied in hues and shades, but most are simply stunning and will enhance any garden trellis. They can produce 10-20cm blooms in marvellous tones of reds and purples. ‘Fujimusume’, ‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’, ‘Ernest Markham’, ‘Daniel Deronda’, ‘Niobe’, ‘Prince Charles’ and ‘Perle d’Azur’ are our recommendations – which all have somewhat different foliage and flowering seasons. 5) Climbing Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea petiolaris COMMON NAME(S): Climbing Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H4 / H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; Acidic / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Plants from three or four genera are informally classed as climbing hydrangea, which works well because they are broadly similar, being woody climbers with brilliant green or dark green ovate or elliptic leaves and bearing types of creamy flowers in the summer. These popular climbers are hardy to H4 or H5. One – Hydrangea viburnoides – is an evergreen, but rises to 8m and another, Hydrangea petiolaris, is deciduous but can cross 12m. Both of these species, as well as the others, are trouble-free, robust, and long-lived plants without special position, exposure, or aspect needs. 6) Honeysuckle BOTANICAL NAME: Lonicera COMMON NAME(S): Honeysuckle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Honeysuckles are one of our top contenders for the best trellis plants going and it’s easy to see why. They rise to 4-8m, are very hardy and are indifferent to position, aspect, and exposure. The foliage is deep, rich green, they bear flowers throughout summer and produce colourful, glossy berries in the autumn. Japanese Honeysuckle, Honeysuckle ‘Graham Thomas’ and Late Dutch Honeysuckle are choice options, producing, respectively, white, creamy-yellow and crimson blooms. The distinctive flowers with their narrow, arched petals and exposed stamens and pistils are so exceptionally fragrant that their scents will waft through half your garden. 7) Chocolate Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Akebia quinata COMMON NAME(S): Chocolate Vine HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Chocolate vine varieties attain heights and widths of 8m plus, are semi-evergreen, are very vigorous, and are pest-resistant and disease-free. They are all hardy to H6 and are happy in any position, aspect or exposure. Their brilliant green palmate-arranged leaves set the backdrop for marvellous little maroon-chocolate blooms in thick racemes in the species. ‘Shirobana’ has cream and lavender flowers, ‘Cream-Flowered’ has cream and russet and ‘Amethyst Glow’ has purple. All of them have a rich, nutmeg-like aroma. There is further adornment in autumn in the form of delicately-coloured oblong fruits. 8) Nasturtium BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum COMMON NAME(S): Nasturtium HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, sand, loam; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Most nasturtiums have long blooming seasons and bear beautiful flowers but they are tender annuals. However, one species, Flame Nasturtium, is hardy to H5. This deciduous climber can reach up to 4m tall and bears brilliant red flowers in summer into autumn, and then colourful blue-hued berries. Semi-hardy to H3 and requiring a sheltered spot, ‘Blue Nasturtium’, ‘Yellow Lark’s Heels’ and ‘Ken Aslet’ will display thick rich foliage and an abundance of blooms, each during a different season. Take your choice from, respectively, lilac-blue in spring, sunny yellow flowers in summer, or orange-and-yellow in summer-autumn. Lovely lobed leaves are a standard issue with this plant. 9) Star Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Trachelospermum jasminoides COMMON NAME(S): Star Jasmine / Chinese Jasmine HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Boasting perhaps the most ‘classic’ foliage of all climbers, Trachelospermum jasminoides varieties display glossy, elliptic leaves of a deep, brilliant green. ‘Variegatum’ ups the ante with leaves exhibiting sections and splashes of cream. This cultivar and the species’ flowers are pure white, while ‘Selbra’ has yellow-centred cream flowers. ‘Selbra’ rise to about 10m while ‘Variegatum’ is relatively petite, topping out at 4m. All of these varieties are evergreens that add the bonus of summertime scents and wintertime colours. All are semi-hardy at H4, and they will grace your garden for many years if given a sheltered location. 10) Winter Creeper BOTANICAL NAME: Euonymus fortunei COMMON NAME(S): Winter Creeper HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Winter Creepers can shape-shift into climbers, and they make excellent trellis plants because, though they are slow-growing, they are all evergreen and hardy to H5. These plants cover a greater length if grown vertically than they do in length when creeping. All Euonymus fortunei have small ovate leaves and all display some or another variegation in the style of edging or bordering. The species plant’s dark green leaves are dual bordered in narrow cream and yellow, whilst the variety ‘Sunshine’ has a small splotch of green in the middle surrounded by thick bands of sunny yellow. 11) American Wild Climbing Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa setigera COMMON NAME(S): American Wild Climbing Rose HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered For a backdrop suggesting American ranches and prairies, you can try American Climbing Wild Rose which is quite different from cultivated climbing roses. It is very hardy at H6 and it is a spare, rangy, open-habit plant from 1.5-3.5m in height. The leaves are the most bright, summery shade of green imaginable and are downy underneath. In summer, this species bears copious quantities of 7cm single flowers with big yellow central disks. These blooms fall in the pink-purple spectrum, often lavender. In autumn there is further colour in the form of glossy scarlet fruit: rose hips. All in all, this is a perfect vine for a cottage garden. 12) Everlasting Pea BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus latifolius COMMON NAME(S): Everlasting Pea HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered If it’s floral charm you’re looking for in a trellis plant, Lathyrus latifolius is your vine. These deciduous perennial climbers are quite compact at 1.5-2.5m with a narrow spread of about 1m. Though fully hardy at H6 and H7, they prefer a sheltered spot and a southern or western aspect. Everlasting Pea’s laterally symmetrical lobed flowers are seriously charming and the charm is heightened as they are borne in drooping racemes. ‘Rosa Perle’ is pink-flushed, ‘White Pearl’ is pure white, ‘Red Pearl’ is magenta-pink. Their foliage is a brilliant greyish-green. 13) Virginia Creeper BOTANICAL NAME: Parthenocissus quinquefolia COMMON NAME(S): Virginia Creeper HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Firstly, Virginia Creepers are designated as invasive non-native species in the UK so care is required.1 Foliage lovers may take the chance, for this climber is all about the leaves, which are palmate with ovate leaflets. ‘Monham’ has marvellously variegated leaves that can vary from entirely green to entirely cream. But it is in autumn that this climber shows spectacular colours. The foliage of P. quinquefolia var. engelmannii turns into a blaze of oranges and even purples, while the species P. quinquefolia produces shiny blackish-blue berries. P. quinquefolia is the biggest at 12m plus, whilst ‘Monham’ is the shortest, reaching heights of up to 8m. All are fully hardy at H6. 14) Common Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Jasminum officinale COMMON NAME(S): Common Jasmine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Jasmine comes not only in ‘tree’ form but also as a climbing shrub, and it is a really fast grower. What’s more, this touch of the tropics is very hardy at H5. Two options are Common Jasmine and Stephan Jasmine. They commonly grow to about 6m and thrive in any soil so long as it is free draining and moist. As these are deciduous plants, there is nothing on offer in winter, but you get a vibrant mass of foliage the rest of the year, an abundance of flowers in summer and autumn, plus small berries in the autumn. The heady, exotic fragrance in summer is another present from the East. 15) Hardy Kiwi BOTANICAL NAME: Actinidia arguta COMMON NAME(S): Hardy Kiwi HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; Acidic / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered That’s right, Kiwi plants also come as fully hardy climbing vines; species Actinidia arguta. Its kiwifruits are not the fuzzy kind which are found in stores but are smooth-skinned ones that provide a sweeter taste. The reason they are not available commercially is that these perishable fruits do not keep well. Take any cultivar of Actinidia arguta, such as ‘Ken’s Red’ or ‘Issai,’ which are hardy to H5, plant it in a sunny but sheltered spot, and you’ll have lush green foliage on that trellis. It will be decorated with small creamy flowers in summer and in autumn, you’ll reap a bounty of sweet, delicious, garden-grown kiwifruit. 16) Multi-Leaved Akebia BOTANICAL NAME: Akebia trifoliata / Akebia × pentaphylla COMMON NAME(S): Three-Leaf Akebia / Five-Leaf Akebia HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn (if any) SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Making up the name ‘Multi-Leafed Akebia’, we introduce two vigorous climbers, Akebia trifoliata and Akebia × pentaphylla. Both rise to about 10m and are nearly as wide. Both are also fully hardy at H6 and have no position, aspect or exposure needs. They have broad, scalloped light green leaves. Imports from the Far East, in spring ‘Multi-Leafed Akebia’ produce small salver-shaped flowers. Their unusual colour spans maroon, purple and chocolate tones but the mild scent is undeniably reminiscent of chocolate. The hybrid is semi-evergreen while the species is deciduous, but the latter produces additional autumn colour in the form of purple berries. 17) Kolomikta BOTANICAL NAME: Actinidia kolomikta COMMON NAME(S): Kolomikta HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered An exceptional ‘import’ from East Asia, Actinidia kolomikta has unique foliage. It is a vigorous deciduous vine that is fairly hardy at H5. In the UK it needs a sunny but sheltered spot, preferably with a southern aspect. Growing to 5-6m, it is, unusually, almost as wide. Though Actinidia kolomikta produces big white flowers followed by yellow berries, this vine is about beautiful foliage. The perfectly ovate leaves are emerald green and start taking on whites and pinks from the tip inward. The leaves eventually become white, rose pink, or white-and-pink, producing colour effects that are unmatched by other vines. 18) Boston Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: Parthenocissus tricuspidata COMMON NAME(S): Boston Ivy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Boston Ivy and its cultivars are a fuss-free pure foliage play. These deciduous climbers are hardy to H5. The species plant and ‘Fenway Park’ are very robust and fast growing and can exceed 12m. If you want something less massive, try ‘Lowii’, the baby of the family. Boston Ivies have trifoliate leaves except ‘Lowii’ which has palmate leaves. All put on a wonderful autumn show as the foliage turns bright red and even purple. These climbers’ ability to thrive in any position, aspect or exposure is a big plus point. 19) Russian Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Fallopia baldschuanica COMMON NAME(S): Russian Vine HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered A massive option that is perhaps the fastest growing climber, Russian Vine can attain heights of 10-12m and a spread of about 6m. It is a deciduous woody plant that is fully hardy at H7. It can be grown in any position or aspect but because of its bulkiness, it is wise to site it in a sheltered spot. Russian Vine, also known as ‘Mile a Minute Plant’, has chordate leaves of a rich green shade. In summer it is simply covered with a profusion of pinkish-white little flowers borne in panicles and afterwards, it bears clusters of berries that vary in hue from pink to dull orange. 20) Grape Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis vinifera COMMON NAME(S): Grapevine / Wine Grapevine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; Alkaline / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Grapevine may not be thought of as a plant you can grow in the UK on a trellis, but a few wine grape vines (not dessert grape vines), such as ‘Boskoop Glory’, ‘Muller-Thurgau’ and ‘Frovit’ definitely fit the bill. Many varieties, almost all frost-hardy, are available as potted plants. The mean height range is 5-10m. If you have a sunny and sheltered location in your garden in England, preferably in a not-too-cold region, a wine grape vine will tick the expansive growth box. Most varieties will also bring ornamental value with bronze and red tones in autumn, and a harvest of grapes – and there’s that homemade wine! 21) Trumpet Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Campsis radicans COMMON NAME(S): Trumpet Vine HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Three species of the Campsis genus are lumped together as ‘Trumpet Vine’ and that’s because they bear the most wonderfully shaped trumpet-like flowers through summer and into autumn. The flowers of the three species are red or orange while those of a sub-species, ‘Yellow Trumpet Vine’ are – you guessed it – yellow. They all have bright green serrated leaves. All are vigorous climbers, they can grow up to 8-12m and all are semi-hardy at H4. Sited in full sun and in a sheltered spot, any Trumpet Vine will bring an abundance of vibrant colour for months on end, with our pick being the vermilion-to-scarlet of Campsis radicans. 22) Potato Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum laxum COMMON NAME(S): Potato Vine / Japanese Nightshade HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, clay, sand; Alkaline / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Japanese Nightshade and its varieties are vigorous climbers reaching 8-9m. They are semi-hardy at H4, and require a sunny, sheltered spot with a southern or eastern aspect. They are also semi-evergreen, so the foliage is on display for almost the whole year in most years. This foliage is rich, deep green and the leaves are ovate or elliptical. Japanese Nightshades bear a profusion of five-petalled star-shaped flowers in thick clusters through summer and part of autumn. These are white or blue-tinged in the species, pure white in ‘Album’ and pale lilac in ‘Coldham’. Their sweet, somewhat exotic scent is the icing on the cake. 23) Potato Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum crispum COMMON NAME(S): Potato Tree HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, clay, sand; Alkaline / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered So-called Potato Tree is, in fact, a scrambling climber that is not even woody. It grows to about 6m, is semi-hardy at H4, and requires a sheltered and sunny spot. Cultivar ‘Glasnevin’ is very widely available but there is little to choose between it and the species as these climbers are all about year-round colour. They are semi-evergreen and their elliptic leaves are a brilliant green. Star-shaped flowers are borne in thick clusters over a long blooming season in summer and autumn. They vary from lilac to purple and have a complementary yellow centre and there are small yellowish berries in autumn. 24) Hops BOTANICAL NAME: Humulus lupulus COMMON NAME(S): Hop / Common Hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Hops are deciduous herbaceous vines and are dioecious, which means that male and female flowers are on separate plants.2 Cultivars vary quite widely in height and growing requirements but all are fully hardy at H6. They even vary in their leaves which may be whole, trifoliate, or palmate, though all serrated. ‘Aureus’ has golden-green leaves and can reach about 6m, ‘Prima Donna’ has yellowish-green leaves and reaches about 3m, while ‘Golden Tassels’ has green-gold leaves and is only about 2.5m. All produce pendent, cone-shaped, scented flowers in summer, and in autumn, hops, which are as pretty as they are aromatic. 25) Crimson Glory Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis coignetiae COMMON NAME(S): Crimson Glory Vine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; Alkaline / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Crimson Glory Vine is a vigorous option and a massive one, up to 15m in height. The leaves too are comparatively massive at about 30cm. This deciduous vine is very hardy at H5 but it is advisable to grow it in a sheltered position with a south or west-facing aspect. The chordate leaves come into season in autumn showing orange, rust, and red shades, as the climber lives up to its name of ‘Crimson Glory Vine.’ These colours are further enhanced by clusters of little dark blue berries. This import from East Asia is, however, susceptible to several pests and diseases. 26) Chinese Virginia Creeper BOTANICAL NAME: Parthenocissus henryana COMMON NAME(S): Chinese Virginia Creeper HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Chinese Virginia Creeper is, in fact, a very vigorous climber that clears 10m in height. It is semi-hardy at H4 but this robust option is indifferent to position, aspect or exposure. It has particularly lush growth and is a great choice to create a wall of foliage. Chinese Virginia Creeper has palmate leaves with a smooth sheen of a bronze-green hue, on which the prominent silver-white venation stands out. In autumn the foliage takes on deep, rich tones of orange and red, with further colour supplied by the deep blue berries. It is disease-resistant and generally pest-free. References 1. Virginia Creeper: Ornamental or Nuisance? (2016, April 25). Anoka County Master Gardeners. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.anokamastergardeners.org/blog/2016/4/6/virginia-creeper-ornamental-or-nuisance 2. Sirrine, R. (2017, September 26). Why are my hops producing male flowers? MSU Extension. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/why_are_my_hops_producing_male_flowers
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8 Ideas From Horticulturists To Support Climbing Plants As They Grow
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Living Plant Supports 2) Stakes And Canes 3) Trellises For Climbing Plants 4) Horizontal Wires On Walls Or Fences 5) Cordon Wires & Frames 6) Cage Supports 7) Pillars And Obelisks 8) Arches, Arbours And Pergolas References Supporting climbing plants as they grow is important – but there are a huge range of different ways to do so. Think outside the box and you can find many amazing and unusual solutions for your garden. Finding innovative ways to support climbing plants or vines in your garden can help you create a garden which really makes the most of the space available. Seeking out interesting support solutions means that you can take your garden into the vertical, as well as the horizontal, and really make the most of every inch. What’s more, by finding new and interesting ways of supporting climbing plants in your garden, you can integrate these plants more holistically into any design and you can create a beautiful garden which is attractive and unique. Supporting the plants in your garden does not involve a large investment. In fact, if you take a DIY approach, you can create bespoke support options for any situation using natural resources or items that would otherwise have been thrown away. This is often the most sustainable approach too. By using natural or reclaimed materials for plant support, you will not only save money but will also be doing the right thing for the planet. To help you understand the variety of options you could consider for supporting climbing plants as they grow, we’ve come up with a range of categories, with suggestions within each category for the different supports that you could consider. So, read on to get some inspiration for supporting the plants you are growing or wish to grow in your garden: 1) Living Plant Supports The first category to consider is supporting climbing plants with other plants. For example, many climbers and vines can be grown up mature trees. Large mature trees can support even vigorous vines, while even smaller trees can provide support for smaller climbers. They might also be grown up or through shrubs or hedgerows. Many vines like honeysuckle and clematis, to give two obvious examples, look wonderful when spreading along a wild hedgerow at the edge of a garden. Annual climbers and vines can also be supported by other plants. One of the best-known examples of this is when corn is grown alongside climbing beans (and also squash) in the ‘three sisters’ companion planting plan.1 In this polyculture, the corn is considered the ‘supporting sister’, providing support for the beans in return for the nitrogen fixation that the beans can provide. Other tall plants, like amaranth or Jerusalem artichokes, can also provide support for climbing beans and other annual climbers or vines in your vegetable beds. Sunflowers are also often used in some areas as support for climbers like cucumbers – but caution is advised as sunflowers can stunt the growth of certain other plants grown close by, so yields of certain crops may be affected. It is not recommended, for this reason, to use sunflowers as support for climbing beans. Another thing to consider is that when planted closely, plants like peas may not require as much support and may, at least in part, hold themselves up, working together. Wide rows of peas are sometimes planted, sometimes with just a string around the sides of the row to stop them from flopping over. 2) Stakes And Canes Sometimes, more complicated and larger support solutions are not required and all that is needed is a simple stake or cane. “When pruning in winter, keep an eye out for material that can be used for staking,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Beware of using material from plants that will root, such as willow. “My ideal stakes are coppiced hazel because they are long, straight, strong and look great too.” Individual plants can often be supported with bamboo canes, natural branches or twiggy sticks (like peas, for instance). Often, it will be possible to source materials for these simple supports from elsewhere in your garden, so be sure to look around before you buy anything new. 3) Trellises For Climbing Plants Another category involves creating trellises suitable for a wide range of both perennial and annual climbing plants. Trellises come in many shapes and sizes and can be made from a huge range of different materials. Trellises may be: Fences or other garden boundaries which double as trellises Structures placed against a wall or fence Vertical, free-standing structures A-frame structures V-shaped structures There are, of course, plenty of trellis panels that you can simply buy, but making your own means you can create a tailor-made solution for your garden and for the plants you wish to grow. They can also be made using organic materials from your garden. You can use bamboo or you can make a range of different trellis designs using natural branches pruned or coppiced from the trees and shrubs in your garden. Canes or branches might be held together with screws or tied together with twine. One interesting thing to note is that you might not even have to buy twine for the purpose. Plants like stinging nettles can be used to make your own natural rustic twine for garden purposes.2 You might even be able to create a wattle trellis without any fixings at all. To create a sturdy wattle trellis you will need strong stiff branches to use as upright posts, and flexible branches to weave between these uprights. You can create a dense screen with this technique, or create a trellis with a more open structure. A range of trellis structures can also be made using reclaimed materials. For example, you can make a trellis using: Reclaimed wood/wood pallets Old doors/windows Old plumbing pipes Cattle panels Reclaimed rebar Old fencing/chicken wire Reused fishing nets The structure from an old metal bed or an old headboard Spring structures from an old mattress The railing from an old cot or a piece of balustrade Old wooden handled garden tools An old garden gate These are just a few ideas and there are also plenty of other old items and materials that can be put to good use. It is always a good idea to think about what you might already have lying around before you buy any new support structures for your garden. 4) Horizontal Wires On Walls Or Fences If you have existing walls or fences up which you wish to grow climbing plants on then you might not need to add a trellis at all. Some climbers are self-clinging, of course, and will not need any support as they grow, but for those plants which do require some support, you might simply have to add a series of horizontal wires across a solid wall or fence to tie plants into as they grow. It is important to make sure that both the existing structure and the wires are strong enough to support the plants that you wish to grow, as some climbers are much heavier and more vigorous than others. You also need to make sure that the wires are tensioned so they do not sag over time. If you get these things right, this can be an unobtrusive way to support climbers or wall shrubs against an existing garden boundary. 5) Cordon Wires & Frames Unlike a typical trellis, cordon wires and frames do not have a consistent lattice in the structure. Instead, a frame is used to support trailing wires or strings up which cordon plants like tomatoes can be grown. The frames can support the wires or strings only at the top, and the strings can be secured at the base with tent pegs, or looped below the root balls of the plants when they are planted. Plants are then tied into these vertical wires or strings as they grow. As with typical trellis supports, the frames for cordoning wires or strings can be made with a range of different materials, including natural branches from your garden, or reclaimed materials. As above, the frames can be simple vertical rectangles, A-frames, or a range of other shapes. Since you will have wires or strings hanging down from this frame, you will only need to worry about making the outline of the frame, not a complete lattice structure. If you are cordoning plants within an undercover growing structure like a polytunnel, you may not need to worry about making a frame at all for cordon plants. You may be able to run a taut wire between the crop bars, and suspend the wires or strings for cordoning from that. 6) Cage Supports Another group of ideas involves creating a cage-like structure around your climbers and vines to support them as they grow. This is another idea which could work well for tomatoes which are not cordoned, or other edible climbers and vines, to prevent them from sprawling out too much. Cage supports can be made from old fencing or chicken wire, woven wood or latticed wood structures, for example. There are also a range of other inventive reuse solutions to consider. 7) Pillars And Obelisks Especially in smaller gardens, support structures in the shape of pillars or obelisks can help you make a stand-out feature of climbing plants without taking up a lot of space. These can be very decorative features as well as functional supports for your plants. Of course, there are plenty of options that you can simply buy, but you can also make your own support structures of this type relatively easily. For example, people have used: Bamboo canes or natural branches Woven willow art structures Reclaimed wood Old stepladders Old plumbing pipes The structure from an old garden parasol/umbrella Old bicycle wheels Golf clubs Stacked wicker baskets Stacked reclaimed wire cages 8) Arches, Arbours And Pergolas This next category involves larger decorative structures which can be used to support climbing plants in your garden. Arches are extremely popular for a quaint cottage garden or English garden look. Buying or creating arches over pathways over which roses and other flowering climbers can be grown is a great way to define the entrance to a particular garden space, or to mark the way through from one garden room to the next. Arches can also be created across the top of a raised bed, for example, to grow annual climbers and vines, or between two garden beds to create a walkway between them. Arbours (covered areas with seating below) or larger pergola structures, are much larger DIY projects, but could also be considered if you have some DIY skills. Growing fruiting vines like grapes for produce or fragrant climbers to enrich outdoor living spaces can be a great idea, and these sorts of structures can be good ways to support them. Again, as with other support structures, many reclaimed materials can be used to make your bigger garden projects like these more sustainable and eco-friendly. References 1. Growing Your Own | The three sisters. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/three-sisters 2. Family activity: how to make string from nettles. (2020, June 24). Berkshire, Buckinghamshire & Oxfordshire Wildlife Trust. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.bbowt.org.uk/blog/claire-mcclafferty/family-activity-how-make-string-nettles
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Using Nasturtium As Companion Plants - They Make An Excellent Trap Crop In A Veg Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Plants That Could Benefit Companion Planting With Brassicas Companion Planting With Cucurbits Companion Planting With Legumes Companion Planting With Nightshade Using Nasturtiums Alongside Fruit Trees Nasturtiums are wonderfully easy flowers to grow and are great for new gardeners and for those growing with the youngest members of the family. They can, of course, be wonderful as ornamental plants, but another thing to consider is that they also make great companion plants in a vegetable garden – and provide edible yields in their own right. Nasturtiums make great companion plants because they: Attract bees and other pollinators. Draw in pest species like aphids, weevils and beetles, serving as a trap crop to keep these pests away from your fruit and vegetable crops. Attract predatory insects that like to eat the aphids and other pests mentioned above, to keep their numbers down. Have a scent that is said to confuse or repel certain pests. Create good ground cover, conserve soil moisture and protect the soil. Quickly grow, generating biomass that can be fed back into the system through composting, or chopping and dropping to help improve soil fertility for other plants close by. Plants That Could Benefit Nasturtiums, for the reasons mentioned above, can aim many plants in a vegetable garden to a degree. They are a particularly good companion plant in a vegetable garden for brassicas (e.g. broccoli, brussels sprouts and kale), cucurbits (e.g. courgettes, cucumbers, squash and pumpkins), legumes (e.g. French beans or runner beans) and nightshades (e.g. aubergine, peppers, tomatoes). Elsewhere in the garden, nasturtiums can also work very well as a companion plant on the sunny fringe of a fruit tree guild. Companion Planting With Brassicas When companion planting nasturtiums with brassicas some care is required, since brassicas are hungry plants and will easily be outcompeted by nasturtiums. However, sowing nasturtiums near brassicas once the plants are reasonably well established can be a good idea. The nasturtiums can spread below larger brassica plants, creating good ground cover and keeping the soil moist. They can also help repel or confuse a range of pests such as caterpillars, which can become an issue for these crops. Companion Planting With Cucurbits My favourite place to include nasturtiums in my vegetable garden is close by courgettes, or summer squash, or on a trellis alongside cucumbers or larger squash. Think carefully about spacing, since cucurbits are also hungry plants. Creating the right level of competition is important. Having nasturtiums alongside these plants is hugely beneficial because they draw in pollinators when these crops need them around, draw aphids, flea beetles and other pests to themselves as a trap crop, and therefore attract predatory species which keep pest numbers in check. Companion Planting With Legumes Alongside nasturtiums and squash growing on a trellis, climbing French beans or runner beans can also be a great addition to the polyculture. The legumes are a good addition to a polyculture alongside nasturtiums since they will fix nitrogen from the air and ensure its availability in the soil. While the nasturtiums should help with aphid problems on the beans. Companion Planting With Nightshade Tomatoes, peppers and aubergines can also all benefit from nasturtiums when it comes to pollinator attraction and pest control. Nasturtiums growing as ground cover around the base of tomatoes and other related crops can also be beneficial in terms of retaining soil moisture. While these are the main families of plants to consider growing nasturtiums alongside, they can be happy bedfellows with a range of other crops too – just don’t grow them with plants too easily outcompeted or smothered by this vigorous growing plant! Using Nasturtiums Alongside Fruit Trees Nasturtiums will not be perennial in our UK climate but they might still be included as an annual around the sunny fringes of a perennial guild (and will sometimes self-seed readily, making for an excellent low-maintenance system). A fruit tree guild is a carefully constructed planting scheme, with plants chosen for their ability to aid the tree at the centre of the guild in some way. Forest gardens are layered planting schemes designed to mimic a natural forest ecosystem but include plants that are useful to the system as a whole. On the sunny fringe of a fruit tree guild or forest garden, nasturtiums can look very pretty as ground cover, in addition to providing their services as a companion plant mentioned above. “Growing nasturtium in a fruit tree guild is a great idea,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It tends to work best where it can do its thing and spread freely, which means it can be difficult to manage in a vegetable garden or more formal space. “The biggest challenge is preventing it from smothering adjacent plants, so plant it alongside robust shrubs and perennials that can cope with the competition.”
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French Beans Plant Care For Bumper Harvests With Emily Cupit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Guidelines Plant Care Storage Common Types References French beans are a great addition to a homegrown vegetable plot. French beans, or green beans, are commonly cultivated through temperate and subtropical regions as an annual crop. This is a crop which can provide a range of benefits. As a legume, French beans provide not only an edible yield, but also help to maintain fertility in your garden. Like other legumes, they have formed a symbiotic relationship with bacteria in their roots which take nitrogen from the air and make it available in the soil.1 Some of that nitrogen is used by the plant themselves, but some may be available for the uptake of neighbouring plants, or for plants which follow the beans in rotation. Overview Botanical Name Phaseolus vulgaris Common Name(s) French Beans, Green Beans Plant Type Annual / Vegetable / Climber Native Area Americas – Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2/H3 Foliage Three oval smooth-edged leaflets Flowers White, pink or purple When To Sow / Plant April – July Harvesting Months July – September French beans, also known as common beans, are cultivars of Phaseolus vulgaris. A herbaceous annual plant, this crop is most commonly grown in the UK for the tender pods, eaten before the seeds inside develop (often called green beans). These plants however can also be left to grow on for a yield of dry beans which can be taken from the pods at maturity. Cultivars produce many familiar dried beans, such as the haricot, kidney bean, cannellini bean and pinto bean for example. These are pulses which can be a valuable addition to a homegrown diet – so growing types for a yield of dry beans could also be an interesting thing to consider in your garden. Planting Guidelines Climbing beans are ideal for garden growing. They do best in the ground with sturdy supports, though they can also be grown in larger containers. Dwarf or bush types are great where space is limited, and do very well in containers. They can also work well in hanging baskets or other suspended containers. Spacing & Depth Sow French beans around 5cm deep, placing each one into a small pot, module or soil block if sowing indoors, or spacing around 15cm apart if direct sowing. If planning on growing on your beans in a container, containers should be 30-45cm wide for dwarf types, and 75cm wide and 45cm deep for climbing varieties. Hardening Off From the end of May or in early June (depending on your location and the weather conditions) harden off your young plants to get them used to outdoors conditions. This simply means gradually moving them outside – gradually exposing them to outdoors conditions for increasing lengths of time over a couple of weeks. Land Preparation If you are growing climbing types which need support, it is best to get this support in place before sowing or planting out. There are various different support options which you could consider. Choose a suitable location for your French beans, and prepare the soil by top dressing with plenty of homemade compost or well-rotted manure. Make sure the area is weed-free, and water well. Planting Out If you are not direct sowing, indoors grown plants can be planted out (after the hardening-off process). As when direct sowing, make sure you wait until the conditions are reliably frost-free, and aim for a spacing of around 15cm between plants. Make sure that you water the plants well before and after planting out. With climbing beans, place the plants at the base of the support structure or structures you have installed and tie them in loosely with natural twine. Plant Care French beans are relatively easy to grow as long as you place them in the right location and meet all of their basic needs. Watering French beans have relatively high water requirements and will provide the highest yields when watered regularly. Remember, if growing in containers, more frequently watering will generally be required. Soil & Feeding Mulching around your French beans will help retain soil moisture, and will also help with fertility and weed control. A mulch of high-quality homemade compost, worm castings or well-rotted manure will be ideal. Light French beans should be grown in a location in full sun, which receives as much light as possible throughout the summer months. Pollination French beans are self-pollinated and are rarely insect pollinated. Cross-pollination is rarely an issue for these plants. “Pollen is typically released the night before the flower opens and the next day, the anthers and stigma typically make contact as the flower opens,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. Weeding Weeding around French beans is important. Keep the surrounding soil covered with mulch, or consider planting ground cover companion plants, which will not compete overly with the beans for water and nutrients. French beans can be excellent companion plants for a range of other crops, due to their nitrogen-fixing capability. “French beans will rarely enrich the soil with nitrogen for other plants to access, as they use the nitrogen they fix for their own crop production,” adds Dan. “However, they will not normally reduce the soil’s nitrogen levels which is very useful if you are practising crop rotation.” “For a companion planting tip, I advise not planting Tagetes species (marigolds) near nitrogen fixers as some studies suggest it affects their root ability to fix nitrogen.” One of the most famous companion planting combinations involves growing climbing beans alongside corn and squash. This beneficial combination is called the ‘three sisters’ companion planting scheme.2 The corn is the supporting sister, giving support to the beans. The beans fix nitrogen, and the squash provides ground cover, for moisture retention and weed control. Beans can also be beneficial companion plants for a number of other crops – especially green leafy vegetables with high nitrogen needs, as Gerald Stratford, the King of Veg, explains: “You can grow French beans with runner beans and courgettes, but honestly, if you see a plant you want to grow with your beans, have a go. “It’s better to have a go and fail than not have a got at all.” Storage If you are not eating your green beans right away, you can store them (unwashed) in the crisper drawer of your fridge for up to a week or so. If you wish to freeze your green beans, blanch them by boiling them for 2-3 minutes, then plunging then into icy water. Once blanched, place them in the freezer in sealed containers. They should keep well for around 8-10 months. Shelled beans should be fully dried, then placed in airtight containers. Common Types French beans are typically divided into two categories: climbing beans, and dwarf or bush beans. The former grow tall, usually requiring some support, while the latter have a bushier, shorter form and do not always need a trellis or staking. Some great climbing beans to consider include: ‘Abundance’ ‘Algarve’ (AGM) ‘Blue Lake’ ‘Cherokee Trail of Tears’ ‘Cobra’ (AGM) ‘Golden Gate’ (AGM) ‘Neckarkonigin’ And some good dwarf types to consider include: ‘Aquilon’ ‘Boston’ (AGM) ‘Elba’ ‘Lilana’ ‘Purple Teepee’ (AGM) ‘Sprite’ (AGM) ‘Tendergreen’ If you would like to harvest dry beans rather than green beans try: ‘Borlotto Lingua di Fuoco’ ‘Jacob’s Cattle Gold’ ‘Lingot’ ‘Mor Kristin’ ‘Oro’ ‘Taylor’s Dwarf Horticultural Long Pod’ (‘October Bean’) ‘Yin Yang’ References 1. Wagner, S. (2011b). Biological Nitrogen Fixation. The Nature Education Knowledge Project. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.nature.com/scitable/knowledge/library/biological-nitrogen-fixation-23570419/ 2. Kruse-Peeples, M. (2016, May 27). How to Grow a Three Sisters Garden. Native-Seeds-Search. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.nativeseeds.org/blogs/blog-news/how-to-grow-a-three-sisters-garden
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Why And How To Grow Morning Glory - There Can Be Some Confusion With Species
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Morning Glory? Common Varieties How To Grow Morning Glory Plant Care References ‘Morning Glory’ is a name given to a number of different plants – many of which have similar appearances but very different growing properties. In this guide, we’ll focus on Ipomoea purpurea and Ipomoea tricolor – annual climbing plants, which are popular with UK gardeners. We’ll also take a look at some other ‘Morning Glories’ along the way. Overview Botanical Name Ipomoea Common Name(s) Morning Glory Plant Type Climber Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Large, various colours When To Sow March, April Plant Out May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September Over a thousand different plants within the Convolvulaceae plant family are referred to as ‘Morning Glory’.1 Many of these are within the Ipomoea genus, though there are also Morning glory plants from many other genera including Argyreia, Calystegia, Convolvulus and more. In UK gardens, two of the most popular morning glory plants are I. purpurea and I. tricolor. I. purpurea, also referred to as ‘Common Morning Glory’, ‘Purple Morning Glory’ or ‘Tall Morning Glory’ – is a climber native to Central and Southern America.2 Ipomoea purpurea Another climbing native of the new world tropics, I. tricolor is also popular in UK gardens. Ipomoea tricolor Both of these can be perennial in their native ranges, and in warmer climes, but are almost always grown as annuals in the UK’s climate. Confusion occurs because ‘Morning Glory’ is sometimes a term also used to refer to a couple of common weeds found here in the UK: Calystegia sepium (hedge bindweed or wild morning glory) and Convolvulus arvensis (field bindweed, perennial morning glory or small-flowered morning glory) can be problematic weeds in some gardens. Convolvulus arvensis They can spread very rapidly and outcompete or choke other plants. And confusion is compounded by the fact that common garden Ipomoea morning glory species can also be invasive ‘problem weeds’ in some regions of the US and elsewhere, though they do not tend to pose an issue in the UK.3 Why Grow Morning Glory? Assuming that most gardeners will not wish to grow the bindweeds mentioned above in their gardens, in the rest of this article we will focus on how to grow the two main species of climber mentioned above as ornamental annuals in your garden. These annuals are popular choices with UK gardeners because they are fast-growing plants which bloom attractively through summer and into early autumn. As the name suggests, morning glory plants flower early in the day – blooms appear just for a single morning before fading away in the afternoon – but many flowers are borne in succession, so plants will create lovely displays for a number of months. These blooms can be up to around 8cm across, and come in a range of different colours, from purples and blues, through pinks and reds. Some cultivars have bi-coloured petals. Common Varieties I. tricolor ‘Heavenly Blue’ Some excellent morning glory options to consider growing include: I. purpurea ‘Grandpa Ott’ I. purpurea ‘Ensign Rose’ I. purpurea ‘Party Dress’ I. purpurea ‘Scarlet O’Hara’ I. purpurea ‘Lazy Luxe’ I. purpurea ‘ Sunpuma Purple Princess’ I. purpurea ‘Star of Yelta’ I. tricolor ‘Heavenly Blue’ I. tricolor ‘Flying Saucers’ I. ‘Hazelwood Blues’ I. purpurea ‘Grandpa Ott’ How To Grow Morning Glory Ipomoea morning glory climbers need a sunny and sheltered spot. These plants do best in moist but well-drained soil. They can also be grown in containers, as long as they are provided with suitable support. Support As climbers, they will of course need some form of support to scramble up. An established shrub or conifer can be used in certain settings as a natural trellis support. However, more commonly, Morning glory will be grown up free-standing obelisk type supports, or up a trellis on a sunny wall or fence. Container Growing Even if you do not have any outside space at all, these morning glories can be grown as a container plant in a sunny porch or conservatory, or in another sunny spot inside your home. When grown indoors, these can sometimes act as short-lived perennials as they do in their native range. Sowing If you want to grow morning glory in your garden then you will most likely have to grow your plants from seed, as mature plants are rarely available for sale. I. tricolor requires a long growing season, so you should sow your seeds in early-to-mid spring, indoors. Before you sow your seeds, to increase the chances of successful germination, it is a good idea to soak the seeds overnight. The water will soften and break down the hard coating on the seeds and make them more likely to sprout successfully. Sow the seeds around 1cm deep, in a moist seed-starting potting mix. They will need to be kept in a warm spot until germination has taken place – so using a propagator is ideal. I. purpurea can be sown indoors, as above, but can also be sown in spring where it is to grow. If you have sown under cover, once the seedlings emerge and are large enough to handle, pot them up into their own individual pots. Use small, thin canes inserted in the soil of each pot to give the baby climbers something to cling to. Be sure to harden off your indoors grown plants before placing them outdoors into their final growing positions if you will be placing them outdoors. Planting Morning glory that has been sown and grown indoors should not be placed out before late May or early June. “Do not be tempted to plant out too early, however much some early spring sunshine tempts you into it,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Overnight frosts can occur well into May across the UK but especially in the north. “It’s happened to me a few times and I now like to think that I’ve learned (the hard way). “Wait until into June and the extra soil warmth will also help to get your Morning Glory off to a strong start once outside.” Make sure supports are in place before planting your morning glory in the ground or in containers. If growing in a container, place 3-5 morning glory plants around the edges of a large pot – this should ideally be at least 40cm wide and 40cm deep. The container should be filled with good quality, peat-free multi-purpose potting mix, top dressed with organic matter such as homemade compost or leaf mould, for example. Water your plants in well, and gently wind the stems of the plants into their new supports. Plant Care Watering Water should be provided as required to keep the soil or potting medium evenly moist. But you should take care not to overwater as these plants will definitely not thrive in waterlogged conditions. Feeding Especially when growing in pots, and for best results when growing in the ground, you should also feed morning glory with a high potassium organic liquid plant feed (such as a comfrey tea, for example) every couple of weeks or so once the first flowers arrive. Training These climbers will generally climb up and twine around their supports on their own. Occasionally, however, you will need to give them a little helping hand to make sure they head in the right direction. Check every few days and if stems have gone astray, guide them gently back onto their supports. Deadheading & Pruning Deadheading the flower heads will encourage new blooms to form over the summer months. No pruning is required, but you can if you wish snip off the growing tip once the plant reaches the top of the support. This can also encourage new shoots to emerge lower down. Growing morning glory can give you impressive annual blooms over a relatively long period, and quickly cover support structures over the summer months. Though there are definitely some morning glory plants (bindweeds) which can pose a problem in your garden, these ornamental plants are definitely a plus for your garden. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998e, July 20). Convolvulaceae | Description & Major Species. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Convolvulaceae 2. Ipomoea purpurea. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30043043-2 3. Field Bindweed (aka Morning Glory). (2009, September). King County Noxious Weed Control Program Weed Alert. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.nwcb.wa.gov/pdfs/Bindweed_factsheet_King.pdf
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Here's How To Grow Pothos (AKA 'Devils Ivy') - A Lush And Evergreen Houseplant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview What Are Pothos? Common Varieties How To Grow Pothos Propagating Pothos Common Problems References Epipremnum aureum is far better known here in the UK as ‘Pothos’ or ‘Devil’s Ivy’. A lush and evergreen houseplant, that is incredibly easy to grow, it’s perfect as a first house plant or to add to a collection. Overview Botanical Name Epipremnum aureum Common Name(s) Pothos, Devil’s Ivy Plant Type Houseplant / Climber Native Area Society Islands Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers None (cream flowers when grown in the wild) When To Grow Year-round With more of us looking to bring nature indoors, whether in our homes or offices, plants such as Pothos have been proven as a consistently good choice. Some houseplants can be more tricky than others to look after and keep alive and growers can easily be put off by previous failures. Epipremnum aureum However, pothos is one of the easiest to care for and will grow well even if neglected a tad. What Are Pothos? Pothos are tropical vines and part of the Araceae family, which originate from Asia.1 With their large evergreen heart-shaped leaves, they are a great feature plant for indoors. As a robust plant that can survive a fair amount of neglect, pothos are a great first houseplant to try and come in many different varieties. As a vine, it looks equally good when allowed to trail down from high up on a mantlepiece or table, or grown vertically with supports. Common Varieties The most commonly grown and widely available variety here in the UK is Golden Pothos, which is obtainable from most garden centres. However, some of these other varieties might need to be purchased from a house plant online retailer. E. aureum AGM or ‘Golden Pothos’ with its glossy green leaves tinged with random yellow streaks is a great trailing plant and is best shown off from a height. Having been awarded the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the RHS, it has shown to grow reliably well. Golden Neon Pothos E. aureum ‘Neon’ or ‘Golden Neon Pothos’ is a vibrant variety with its solid bright yellow foliage. Happily trailing down from a container or pot, it looks great if hung in the air or from a shelf. Satin Pothos E. ‘Trebie’ or ‘Satin Pothos Trebie’ is a stunning variegated option that produces large green leaves tinged with silver streaks. It grows well up moss support providing vertical impact to any room. E. pictum ‘Silvery Ann’ is a variegated variety, similar to pothos trebie, but with more silver foliage. As with the other varieties, it looks good whether allowed to trail or trained up a moss pole. How To Grow Pothos Pothos originate from warmer and more humid climates than here in the UK, which is why they are grown exclusively here as indoor plants. Sunlight & Temperature When grown as houseplants, pothos prefer a light spot, but not in direct sunlight which can burn the leaves and will also cope with a fair amount of shade. Pothos generally grow well indoors in the UK where there is a temperature of 12–24°C. They prefer humid conditions so a bathroom or kitchen can be ideal, but can also be grown in a normal household environment with misting on occasion. Watering Pothos are actually drought tolerant and prefer to be allowed to dry out slightly before being watered again. If worried about how much to water, it is best to err on the drier side, as too much water can kill them. Grown in a free-draining potting mix is ideal as it will allow any excess water to drain away and avoid the plant’s roots becoming waterlogged. It is advised that when watering, use room temperature water, rather than very cold water. Feeding Pothos are not particularly hungry plants and thus do not need a huge amount of food and nutrition, feeding can be left to a 4–6 week schedule and plants fed with a balanced indoor plant fertiliser. Repotting Pothos can grow quite quickly in the right conditions and will eventually need repotting. When the plant’s roots become root-bound or when the roots protrude out of the bottom of the pot, it is time to pot them on – using a slightly wider and deeper pot with new potting compost. Pruning Pruning pothos plants simply depends on how much space you have and how large you would like them to grow. They can be cut back hard to 5-10cm in order to rejuvenate or just the vine ends lightly trimmed to limit growth. Either way, it is recommended to use a clean and sharp pair of secateurs and to cut just above a leaf join. When grown in the wild, pothos can be known to produce cream flowers. However, when grown as houseplants they are unlikely to do so. Propagating Pothos Pothos are easy to grow and simple to propagate from cuttings, meaning you can increase your own collection or give away any spare plants to friends and family. To create new plants, a cutting needs to be taken, either for this specific purpose or from a pruning. Pothos plants have little bumps along the stems called root nodes and any cuttings ideally need to have 2–3 root nodes in order to have the best chance of developing a good root system. The cuttings simply need to be placed in a glass of water, deep enough to cover the stem and nodes, but not so deep as for the leaves to get wet. Place the glass on an indoor window sill and wait to see the roots develop from the nodes. Once the roots have grown to 3–5cm, which usually takes 6–8 weeks, the cutting can then be removed from the water and planted into a small pot full of free-draining potting soil. Common Problems Pothos plants are usually relatively pest and disease-free, however being indoor plants, they can be susceptible to mealy bugs and spider mites. Mealy Bugs Mealy bugs are white sap-sucking insects that leave a telltale white and fluffy residue on the foliage behind them. If allowed to develop into a severe infestation, mealybug damage can lead to leaf drop and eventual demise of the plant. The first line of control is squishing any visible bugs by hand and hosing off all foliage and stems outside with a hose spray adapter. If the infestation is more severe, plant oil and fatty acid sprays can be used or contact insecticides as a last resort. Spider Mites Spider mites can be one of the most problematic pests to houseplants. A sap-sucking mite, they leave behind a mottled appearance on the foliage and can cause leaf loss and even death of the plant. Controls can include increasing humidity either by moving the plant or by increased misting, however this is more of a prevention than control. As with mealy bugs, fatty acid and plant oil spray can be used or an insecticide for severe cases. Variegation Loss Pothos plant foliage may begin to lose its decorative variegation over time with the leaves reverting back to a single colour. This can sometimes be caused by the plant receiving too little light and is of no consequence other than cosmetic. However, by moving the plant to a brighter spot the variegation should return to the leaves with time. “If only one section of the plant has lost variegation, this is most likely due to reversion rather than a lack of light,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is where new growth loses variegation, often growing faster than the variegated leaves and taking over in time due to having more green chlorophyll in the leaf. “Look carefully and locate where the reverted growth originates and cut it back to the stem leaving only variegated growth.” Root Rot Overwatering is often a problem when caring for houseplants, especially pothos. Overwatering or wet and soggy roots can lead to sudden yellowing leaves, severe wilting and the roots rotting and turning brown. On checking the roots, if they appear brown and soft then action must be taken. Using a pair of secateurs cut and remove the brown soft roots, leaving only the healthy-looking roots. The plant can then be repotted with some fresh free-draining compost and kept an eye on. References 1. Epipremnum aureum. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener. Retrieved May 22, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/epipremnum-aureum/
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