Growing
How To Grow A Cherry ‘Sakura’ Tree For Stunning Early Spring Blossom
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Sakura? Do They Produce Edible Fruit? Common Varieties Planting Where To Plant How To Plant Creating A Cherry Blossom Guild Ongoing Care Watering Feeding Pruning References Growing a cherry tree in your garden is a great idea. If you are looking for a garden tree which provides visual appeal, then a flowering cherry tree is one of the very best options to consider. Of course, edible cherry trees also have beautiful blossom – and provide food – so don’t rule out a fruit tree that will add to the food you can grow at home. Here though, we will cover the largely ornamental flowering cherry trees commonly referred to as ‘Cherry Blossom Trees’. Overview Botanical Name Prunus (various) Common Name(s) Japanese Cherry, Cherry Blossom Tree, Sakura Plant Type Tree Native Area Japan, Europe Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or pink blossom When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months March, April When To Prune July When we talk about cherry trees, these are usually categorised into three main groups. There are sweet cherries (with fruits which can be eaten straight from the tree), sour cherries (whose fruits are tarter and usually cooked) and cherry blossom trees – or flowering cherry trees – which are usually grown predominantly for their ornamental appeal. In Europe and N. America, these cherry trees are categorised into the Prunus genus, along with those cherry trees grown primarily for their edible fruit. In Japan, and elsewhere in the East, they are classified as Cerasus – around 100 species distinct from the main Prunus genus.1 Each year, there is a cherry blossom forecast which tracks the progression of the cherry blossom blooming from the south to the north of Japan. Many people watch eagerly and turn out in their droves to enjoy these beautiful trees. Many foreign visitors are also drawn to the country to see the cherry blossoms each spring. Cherry trees prized for cherry blossom viewing are usually cultivars rather than wild species; many cultivars were created in Japan, and also in Europe around the end of the 19th Century and the beginning of the 20th. Why Grow Sakura? The UK climate is ideally suited to growing a range of ornamental cherry trees. These bring great ornamental appeal during the springtime when the blossom is out. Wildlife such as pollinators and other insects will also love the trees while they are in flower. Some cultivars also have other features of ornamental appeal, such as purple foliage, for example. There are many cultivars which make great specimen trees in the climate of many UK gardens. Do They Produce Edible Fruit? As mentioned above, cherry blossom trees are typically grown for their ornamental appeal rather than for any edible yields. However, the fruits from some ornamental cherry trees (but not the seed inside) is edible when cooked. Though there is not typically much flesh on these fruits, when the seeds are removed the fruits can be cooked and processed into preserves. Caution (and plenty of research) is advised, however. Common Varieties When choosing a cherry blossom tree, there are a number of things to think about. Consider how much space is available and whether you wish to grow in the ground or in a container. Think about the eventual size of the tree you are considering, as some grow larger than others. It is also important, of course, to think about the appearance of the blooms, which can vary significantly, and also about whether a particular cultivar also offers autumnal colour, beautiful bark or notable coloured foliage, for example. ‘Kanzan’ Cherry Blossoms Here are just some of the highly regarded cherry blossom trees that you might wish to consider: P. serrolata (e.g. ‘Amanogawa’, ‘Erecta’) P. x sieboldii (e.g. ‘Caespitosa’, ‘Takasago’) P. ‘Royal Burgundy’ P. ‘Shogetsu’ P. ‘Kursar’ P. ‘Kanzan’ P. ‘Accolade’ P. ‘Kojo-no-mai’ P. ‘Pink Perfection’ P. ‘Snow Goose’ P. incisa ‘The Bride’ P. cerasifera ‘Nigra’ P. x incam ‘Okame’ P. x subhirtella (e.g. ‘Autumnalis Rosea’) P. pendula ‘Ascendens Rosea’ These are just a few interesting examples and there are of course many more to consider, so you are sure to be able to find one which appeals to you, and which would suit your garden style and preferences. Prunus cerasifera Planting Cherry blossom trees are usually purchased either as pot-grown specimens throughout the year, or as bare-root examples over the dormant period. It is usually cheaper, and you will have more variety, if you select and plant a bare-root cherry tree between November and February. If you do choose a pot-grown tree, planting out in spring or autumn offers the best chances of success in transplantation and establishment. Where To Plant Choosing a spot in full sun is ideal, and trees will bloom best in such a setting. However, many cultivars can also cope with some light or partial shade. Make sure there is sufficient space for the cultivar you have chosen. Some smaller cultivars are ideal for container growing, and planting in a container of 40-60cm or so should suffice. A sheltered spot is best as strong winds can blow the blossom off the trees. The soil or growing medium should be rich, fertile, and moist yet free draining. Most varieties are relatively unfussy about soil pH. How To Plant When planting in the ground, dig a hole three times the radius of the rootball, and a few inches deeper. Place your tree into this hole, making sure that the graft point is above the soil and the highest roots are around 2-3cm below the soil level. Fill back in the soil around your tree, pressing it down gently but not compacting, and water well. Mulch around your new tree with plenty of organic matter, but make sure this is not piled up around the trunk. Creating A Cherry Blossom Guild Even when trees are not grown for edible yields, creating a guild of companion plants around your tree can help to keep it healthy. Flowering perennials will help to attract beneficial insects to keep down numbers of pests like aphids that might impact the appearance of your flowering cherry tree. Deep-rooted perennials used around the base will help to draw up nutrients, which can be chopped and dropped to maintain fertility. Nitrogen-fixing plants will help to feed your tree, and ground cover plants will help to reduce competition from weeds and grasses – also helping with soil moisture retention. Ongoing Care Cherry blossom trees are generally quite easy to care for in your garden, though when grown in containers, will require a bit more work. Watering Water well, especially during establishment, and remember that trees growing in containers will require more watering than trees growing in the ground. Container trees will usually continue to require watering during dry spells, while mature flowering cherry trees grown in the ground in a suitable spot will usually find natural rainfall sufficient here in the UK. You will need to water flowering cherry trees in the ground only during prolonged dry spells once they are established. Feeding Mulch well around your flowering cherry tree and replenish the mulch with more organic matter each spring. Trees growing in the ground will not usually require additional fertilisation. If growing in a container, however, it is a good idea to feed with a balanced organic fertiliser each spring. Pruning Flowering cherry trees should not usually be pruned unless absolutely necessary – most will retain a healthy and pleasing form without any pruning. However, if there is any dead, damaged or diseased material or pruning is required, this should always be undertaken in early-mid summer to reduce the chances of infection creeping in through pruning cuts. Silver leaf and bacterial cankers can become issues when pruning is undertaken later in the year or during the dormant period, as Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly explains: “Whilst most trees and shrubs are best pruned in winter when dormant, mature cherries (along with plums, peaches, nectarines and apricots) should be pruned in summer (ideally late July or August) to time with the reduced prevalence of silver leaf disease.” Once well established in the right spot, a flowering cherry tree should be a beautiful and relatively low-maintenance addition to your garden. References 1. Kato, S., Matsumoto, A., Yoshimura, K., Katsuki, T., Iwamoto, K., Tsuda, Y., Ishio, S., Nakamura, K., Moriwaki, K., Shiroishi, T., Gojobori, T., & Yoshimaru, H. (2012). Clone identification in Japanese flowering cherry (Prunus subgenus Cerasus) cultivars using nuclear SSR markers. Breeding Science, 62(3), 248–255. https://doi.org/10.1270/jsbbs.62.248
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Planting And Growing Yucca: These Architectural Plants Work Well In Xeriscaping Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Yucca? Where To Grow Yucca Planting Yucca Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Yuccas are interesting, architectural plants which are grown as houseplants or outdoors in UK gardens. There are a number of different yucca types that can be interesting plant choices for UK gardeners. Tender yuccas can be grown as houseplants, in greenhouses or conservatories – while there are also hardier yuccas which can be grown outdoors in summer; some even year-round outdoors in the right locations. Overview Botanical Name Yucca (various sub-species) Common Name(s) Adam’s Needle and Thread, Spanish Dagger Plant Type Shrub / Tree / Perennial / Houseplant Native Area Americas & Caribbean Hardiness Rating Varies – some tender, some hardy Foliage Evergreen, spiky leaves Flowers Some have cream-white flowers When To Plant (Outdoors) April, May, June Flowering Months July, August There are around 40-50 species within this genus, which are notable for their tough, evergreen, sword-like foliage and tall flower panicles of bell-shaped blooms. Yuccas are incredibly adaptable as a genus, and species have evolved to cope with a wide range of climates and ecological conditions. Why Grow Yucca? Yucca is a popular plant for ornamental use in gardens (or as houseplants) because it has such a strong architectural form. Hardier types can add a dramatic accent to a suitable garden, while houseplants can be a great addition to interior décor. When in flower, yucca can be attractive to pollinators in a garden. And in warmer, milder regions, some varieties form fruits which are popular with garden birds. Where To Grow Yucca Hardier yucca (including Yucca gloriosa) are H5 hardy and can be grown in full sun in a south or east-facing spot, in well-drained chalk, loam or sandy soil. Yucca aloifolia and Zamioculcas The plants can grow in locations which are sheltered or exposed, but will appreciate being placed in as hot and sunny a spot as possible. Tender yucca, though they can be placed outside in a warm and sunny spot in summer, are usually grown as houseplants, or in a cool conservatory. Outdoors, yucca can work well in architectural planting alongside other spiky and architectural plants, to give a warm, sunny garden in the UK an exotic feel. Yucca also work well as climate-change-conscious planting in arid conditions, in dry climate planting known as xeriscaping schemes for more (or increasingly) drought-prone areas. Planting Yucca When choosing a yucca to plant, one of your first and most important decisions will be whether you would like to opt for a tender or a hardy yucca. You will need to decide whether you will grow outdoors in a suitable spot, or will be growing under cover in a container. If you are planting outdoors, make sure that you choose a spot with as much sun as possible, and where necessary, amend the soil to improve drainage before you place your new plant. Dig your planting hole big enough to accommodate the root system, with stones, gravel or grit for drainage at the base. Make sure the plant is rested at the same level in the soil that it was in its pot and that water can drain away freely. If you are growing in a container, make sure that this is of sufficient size to accommodate the plant you have purchased. And make sure the container allows water to drain freely from the base. Fill your container with John Innes No. 2 compost (or equivalent) with 20-30% added grit by volume to improve drainage. Hardy yuccas outdoors should usually be planted between May and September. Yuccas to be grown as houseplants can be planted up into new containers at any time of year. Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Hardy yucca grown outdoors can be moderately low-maintenance plants, which, when placed in the right spot, will require little ongoing care. Water freely during dry periods in summer, but curtail watering in autumn and cease over the winter months. While you may feed with an organic liquid plant feed over the summer months, this is not usually required when yucca are grown in moderately fertile soil. Mulching around perennial plants in your garden each spring with organic matter can help retain moisture in a dry and sunny spot, and maintain fertility over time. Pruning is not usually required on most yucca. If they have multiple rosettes and do become too large or leggy in an area, you can prune rosettes with a sharp saw after flowering, before the end of August. However, to keep things looking neat you may also need to remove damaged leaves and spent flower spikes from your yucca in the spring. This is also true for young or tender yucca grown in containers/indoors. “Large Yuccas, such as Yucca gloriosa, can become multi-stemmed, and this gives the option to take cuttings,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “In mid-summer, after flowering, a rosette can be sawn cleanly from the trunk and the leaves stripped back to stalks for all but a few smaller leaves. “There should be some woody base growth and some of the leaf-clad growth on the cutting. Trim the top and tail of the cutting so it is no more than 18cm tall and place it to half its depth in a pot of compost. “You can even slice it in half lengthways if it is top-heavy.” Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Tender yucca are suitable for indoors cultivation, though pots may also be placed outdoors during the summer months. Water yucca freely over the summer months, remembering that plants grown in containers will typically require more water and dry out more easily than those grown in the ground. However, from the end of September, you should water yucca only sparingly. Water well, but only when the top 5cm of the potting mix has dried out. It is also a good idea to feed container-grown yucca with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed once a fortnight over the growing season, from April to September when growing in containers. If you have placed a container-grown yucca outside over the summer, make sure you move it indoors before temperatures fall below around 7-10°C at night. Move them indoors or into a cool conservatory where the minimum temperatures can be maintained.
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This Is How To Identify And Fix 7 Common Apple Tree Problems & Diseases
IN THIS GUIDE Environmental Issues When Should An Apple Tree Begin Bearing Fruit? Common Apple Tree Diseases 1) Apple Scab 2) Blossom Wilt 3) Brown Rot 4) Honey Fungus 5) Phytophthora Root Rot 6) Apple Canker 7) Coral Spot Resolving Apple Tree Problems References Do you have a problem with your apple tree? This article may reveal the cause of the issue. Apple trees are generally relatively easy and straightforward to grow, and can deliver a high yield of delicious fruits once established. However, apple trees can be affected by a range of common problems and diseases. “Reading through the list of problems that can occur with apples can be offputting, as it seems as if there are legions of pests and diseases just waiting for you to plant an apple,” says Colin Skelly, a horticulture expert who has been awarded the Master of Horticulture status by the RHS. “Rest assured that very few problems are catastrophic and most will be due to environmental conditions that you can do something about. “I have a friend with an apple tree that has canker, is unpruned and leaning at a tower of Pisa-like angle, but fruits in abundance every year. “The soil is a rich loam – the right location is key. “Also, the old saying ‘spend a pound on the plant and a pound on the hole’ is a good one – add plenty of organic matter when planting and regularly mulch.” Here, we will introduce you to some of the most common issues that you may encounter: Environmental Issues If your apple tree is not fruiting as expected, then it is not necessarily the case that your apple tree has a disease. Sometimes, environmental issues may be to blame. Unproductive apple trees may have experienced: Poor growing conditions such as drought, excessive shade, or a lack of nutrients. Lack of a partner for pollination (you may need to plant another apple tree close by). Frost damage to apple blossoms earlier in the year. Poor weather conditions early in the year, which restricted pollinator activity. Blossoms being eaten by birds (such as bullfinches) before fruits could form. However, it is also important to note that an apple tree may not be fruiting simply because it is still young. When Should An Apple Tree Begin Bearing Fruit? It is common for apple trees to take a few years to begin producing well. How long it will take depends on a range of factors, including the cultivar and the rootstock that has been used. It may also be the case that the apple tree is biennial bearing.1 With certain apple tree varieties, you may find that the fruiting pattern is one year of excellent yield, followed by a year with sparser fruit formation. This is more common with certain apple varieties than it is with others. This pattern may be initiated by one of the issues mentioned above, and can be addressed by removing some of the blossoms or fruiting buds to encourage a more moderate yield in a bumper year. Poor growing conditions may sometimes be out of your hands, but can also be due to your own mistakes. Rule out issues such as over or under-watering, and make sure you have positioned your apple tree in a suitable spot before looking for other causes of any issues. Pruning wrongly can also cause issues, so this is something else to consider when troubleshooting apple tree problems. Common Apple Tree Diseases Unfortunately, apple trees can also be affected by a number of diseases. Here are some of the most common ones to look out for: 1) Apple Scab Apple Scab Apple scab is caused by a fungus, Venturia inaequalis. This is spread by airborne spores and overwinters in leaf litter.2 If your tree is infected with apple scab, signs can be observed between mid-spring and leaf-fall in autumn. You may see olive-green spots or blotches on the leaves, which are velvety as they release spores, and then darken over time. Leaves may also drop prematurely. Blistering and cracking may be seen on twigs and brown or black scabby blotches may also emerge on the fruits. Fortunately, mild attacks should only blemish the skin and you can still eat the apples. However, damaged fruits will not store as well. While difficult to eradicate entirely, apple scab reoccurrence can be reduced by disposing of infected twigs and leaves promptly to reduce the amount of fungus around to begin infections. Yields will not usually be significantly reduced provided infected materials are removed promptly. If this is a recurrent problem, more resistant cultivars are available.3 2) Blossom Wilt Blossom Wilt Blossom wilt is another fungal infection which can cause rotting of the blossom and fruiting spurs. On apple trees, the fungus which is usually responsible for this is M. laxa f. sp. mali. Though other M. laxa and the indistinguishable to the naked eye M. fructigena can also be to blame. At flowering time, in the spring, you may see brown and shrivelled blossoms and leaves on the fruiting spurs. Small, buff-coloured fungal pustules can sometimes be seen in wet conditions on the dead plant tissues.4 Again, make sure you remove all affected material promptly to reduce its spread. Also, again, some cultivars are more resistant to this issue than others. 3) Brown Rot Brown Rot Brown rot, as the name suggests, is characterised by brown rotting on the fruit. This is actually caused by the same fungi as blossom wilt – M. laxa or M. fructigena.5 You will see brown rot on the fruits, typically spreading out from wounds which may have been caused by apple scab infection, or been made by birds or other wildlife. Infection will spread between fruits in clusters, and the fruit which has been infected may fall, or it may cling to the tree – hanging on in a mummified state. Do not allow rotted fruit to remain on the tree and remove and dispose of all the infected apples as soon as possible, to reduce the spread of this fungal problem. 4) Honey Fungus Honey fungus is a fungal infection (caused by a number of species of Armillaria fungus) which attacks and kills the roots of many trees, shrubs and perennial plants. Apple trees are, unfortunately, one of the species which can be susceptible. Sadly, this is a serious problem and root damage can kill the tree. The branches may die off in sections over several years, or die back suddenly all at once – often during a hot dry period. You may see cracking of the bark at the base of the trunk, and if you peel back the bark you will see white mycelium. In wet conditions, fruiting fungal bodies (honey-coloured mushrooms) may appear around the base of the tree. Preventing the spread of this dangerous plant pathogen is notoriously difficult. Often, in areas with an infection, getting rid of all infected plants and choosing new plants which are resistant to honey fungus is usually the best option. 5) Phytophthora Root Rot Another serious fungal infection that can attack the roots of an apple tree is phytophthora root rot. After honey fungus, this is the most common cause of root and trunk base decay in apple trees. There are a number of different fungus-like organisms which can be responsible.6 These organisms can survive in the soil for many years, and are especially associated with disease in heavy and/or waterlogged soils. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that you will spot this issue until serious root damage and die-back has already occurred. It can be very difficult to distinguish between this issue, honey fungus, and waterlogging alone. Making sure the soil has good drainage will significantly reduce the chances of this disease taking hold. Sadly, infected trees cannot be saved. As with honey fungus, you will have to get rid of the tree (and any other impacted plants), remove as much topsoil as possible, and replant with less impacted, more resistant species. 6) Apple Canker Apple Canker Apple canker is another fungal problem. It is caused by the fungus Neonectria ditissima. It attacks the bark of apple trees, causing a sunken area where the bark has died back and, eventually, the death of the infected branch. New cankers can form from the middle of spring and then will be present throughout the year. The canker will often start at a bud, or a wound on the tree. Wounds caused by apple scab, frosts or winter damage, or even damage caused by pests like aphids can all be routes for infection. Cankers are typically more serious on wet and heavy, and/or acidic soils, so making sure that drainage is good and reducing pH with liming if necessary can help reduce the likelihood of this issue taking hold. If you spot apple canker, you need to act quickly to cut out infected areas.7 Make sure that you cut back to fresh, green wood. 7) Coral Spot Another fungal infection which can affect apple trees is coral spot. This disease, caused by Nectria cinnebarina, causes dieback of branches. However, this is only a weak pathogen in its own right, so the presence of this fungal infection usually indicates that there are other underlying issues. This fungal infection is easily identifiable by small coral-pink pustules which can be seen on infected branches. Prune out infections promptly, cutting back to healthy wood in dry weather conditions. If the plant has repeated attacks, look for other things that may be weakening your apple tree. Resolving Apple Tree Problems These are of course just some of the common issues which can pose problems for an apple tree. There are other problems and diseases to consider – however, ruling out all of the above will certainly help you move closer to working out what is wrong, even if you have not found the exact issue. References 1. Finding the triggers of biennial bearing in apples. (2019, September 3). APAL. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://apal.org.au/finding-the-triggers-of-biennial-bearing-in-apples/ 2. Apple scab of apples and crabapples. (n.d.). UMN Extension. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/apple-scab 3. Apple Scab. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/scabs/apple-scab 4. Apple Best Practice Guide. (n.d.). AHDB. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://horticulture.ahdb.org.uk/knowledge-library/apple-best-practice-guide 5. Marsden, C. (n.d.). Brown Rot. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/brown-rot/ 6. Apple Disease Control. (n.d.). New Mexico State University. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_h/H317/ 7. Orchard fruit tree diseases. (2016, November 4). People’s Trust for Endangered Species. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://ptes.org/campaigns/traditional-orchard-project/orchard-practical-guides/fruit-tree-health/orchard-fruit-tree-diseases/
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Corkscrew Willow: Grow This Contorted Tree For Its Twisted Stems And Trunk
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Corkscrew Willow? How To Grow Corkscrew Willow Plant Care Propagation Common Problems Expected Lifespan References Corkscrew willow trees are ornamental trees that can be great choices for many gardens. Corkscrew willow – Salix babylonica var. pekinensis ‘Tortuosa’ – also known as ‘Salix matsudana Tortuosa’ and ‘Dragon’s Claw Willow’, is an attractive ornamental tree. This is one of a number of Salix matsudana (Chinese Willows) which are now included within the Salix babylonica species. Overview Botanical Name Salix babylonica var. pekinensis ‘Tortuosa’ Common Name(s) Corkscrew Willow, Dragon’s Claw Willow Plant Type Tree Native Area Temperate Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow catkins When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months March, April When To Prune February, March S. babylonica is a species of willow which is native to dry areas in China and Korea, though it has long been cultivated elsewhere in Asia – and these willows are now commonly grown in many gardens around the world.1 Corkscrew willow is the most popular horticultural variant of the type of S. babylonica (formerly referred to as S. matsudana). It is famed for its strongly twisted stems and trunk. The contorted forms of this tree make it a popular ornamental tree in gardens. This is a fast-growing deciduous tree, with narrow, twisted leaves; it bears insignificant yellowish catkins in the spring. The form of the tree is its major draw. The tree is a fairly large one, which can grow to an ultimate height of more than 12m and has an ultimate spread of around 4-8m. Why Grow A Corkscrew Willow? Corkscrew willows, as mentioned above, are most commonly grown for their contorted branches, which create interesting and attractive shapes in the plant architecture of a garden. Like other trees with interesting forms, these trees look good throughout the year, but are particularly prized for the interest they add to a winter garden, when the trees have lost their leaves. Like all other willows (members of the Salix genus) corkscrew willows have salicin in their fresh bark.2 Willow bark can also be used to make a rooting compound, that fosters good root formation on plant cuttings – and can improve results in plant propagation. Added to water in fresh flower arrangements, it is also said to keep fresh flowers looking good for longer.3 How To Grow Corkscrew Willow Corkscrew willow should only be grown in a position where there is space to do so. This plant, as mentioned above, can grow rather quickly into a fairly large tree, so while it can be a good choice for larger gardens, it might not be the best option in a smaller space. If you have a smaller garden then you might wish to consider instead S. × sepulcralis ‘Erythroflexuosa’. This is a smaller willow tree that also has contorted stems, but which will typically grow to between 4-8m in height, with a normal width of between 2.5-4m. “If you are looking for something up to 6m and like the corkscrew look but your soil is not moist most of the year, a good alternative is the slower growing corkscrew hazel (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’),” Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist, recommends. Preferred Soil & Drainage This alternative is sometimes referred to as ‘Golden Corkscrew Willow’. It prefers somewhat moister conditions and can also be a better willow to choose for poorly drained sites. These trees do best in a clay, loam or sandy soil which is moderately fertile and deep. It is unfussy about pH, but will tend not to thrive in chalky conditions. Moist but well-drained or well-drained conditions will suit them best; these trees need to be grown in full sun and definitely will not thrive in even partial shade. However, they can be suitable for exposed as well as sheltered spots and are H5 hardy in the UK. Where To Grow Them Corkscrew willow is a tree that will suit a relatively large garden with a relaxed and low-maintenance feel. It can be a good choice for an ornamental woodland garden, accompanied by other trees and shrubs of architectural interest, or grown alone as a specimen tree. One important thing to note is that willow roots are shallow and can cause problems when planted too close to infrastructure. They can break up paving or paths, and could cause damage if placed too close to buildings. Planting Corkscrew Willow Corkscrew willows are best planted between September and November, though bare root trees can be planted at any time over the dormant period. “Supported with appropriate watering, container-grown plants can be planted at any time, but dry periods should be avoided,” says Dan. Make a hole bigger than the root ball of the tree, with some good quality compost or organic matter at the base of the hole. Water in well, re-firm the soil in place around the new tree, and mulch well around the base (taking care not to pile mulch around the trunk) with organic matter. A mulch of wood chippings can be a good choice. Plant Care When placed in an appropriate location with suitable growing conditions, corkscrew willow trees are generally a low maintenance and easy to care for plant. Salix matsudana ‘Tortuosa’ But there are a number of things to bear in mind – Watering Like most trees, corkscrew willows will require a little more watering until they become established. So make sure that you water well during dry periods over the first year or so. After this, rainfall will usually be sufficient, but be sure to water during periods of prolonged drought. Remember, mulching each spring will retain moisture in the soil and stop the growing area from drying out as quickly. Feeding Mulching is also usually all that will be required to maintain fertility for your willow tree, as long as you are growing in moderately fertile soil. If growth is not as strong as it should be, you can also consider adding a general-purpose organic fertiliser in the spring. Pruning Corkscrew willows are usually well-formed trees which require little pruning. However, light pruning can be undertaken in March. Remove any branches which are dead, damaged or diseased. The aim is to create an open structure without branches touching – this will help keep the tree healthy and happy. Propagation Willows are incredibly easy to propagate and corkscrew willows are no exception. Stems (hardwood cuttings) can simply be placed into the ground in autumn, where they will tend to take root easily and can be moved to their final growing positions the following year. Common Problems Willow trees are not usually killed by pests and diseases, but can be prone to certain problems. Corkscrew willows might, for example, be subject to aphid, caterpillar, leaf beetle or sawfly infestation. Keeping a good biodiversity and balance in your garden can help keep pest numbers down. Make sure you plant around your willow tree to attract predatory insects and other beneficial wildlife which will help keep pests at bay. Fungal Issues Willows like corkscrew willow can be affected by fungal diseases such as willow anthracnose, and rust. Willow anthracnose causes brown or black spots to appear on the leaves, and irregular lesions may be seen on young stems. Affected leaves and shoots may be shed, leaving the crown of the tree sparse. Prune out affected areas quickly to prevent its spread (it is worth noting that S. ‘Erythroflexuosa’, the alternative tree mentioned above, is resistant to anthracnose). In the case of rust, pustules will be seen on leaves and stems – usually, rust will only reduce vigour, but in extreme cases can occasionally kill the tree. Again, remove diseased material as quickly as possible and keep the material away from your composting system. Expected Lifespan When cared for properly, corkscrew willow trees should remain in your garden for many years to come. However, this is a fairly short-lived species, and will usually live around 30-50 years before dieback starts to occur. References 1. Salix babylonica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:777133-1 2. Salix matsudana. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Salix+matsudana 3. Wise, K., Gill, H., & Selby-Pham, J. (2020). Willow bark extract and the biostimulant complex Root Nectar® increase propagation efficiency in chrysanthemum and lavender cuttings. Scientia Horticulturae, 263, 109108. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scienta.2019.109108
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Sometimes A Tree Just Needs To Be Moved - Here's How To Do It With Minimal Damage
IN THIS GUIDE Why Move A Tree? When To Move A Tree? How To Move A Tree 1) Consider Long-Term Preparation 2) Prune And Water Well 3) Prepare Your New Planting Site 4) Lift Your Tree 5) Replant In Your New Planting Site 6) Stake & Apply Mulch 7) Care For Your Transplanted Tree References The time sometimes comes when a tree in the garden needs to be moved. This guide will show you how to potentially move your tree, what to consider regarding the type and age of the tree to be moved and when to call in the experts (and the machinery!). When transplanting a tree some degree of stress to it is inevitable, but through taking some precautions and planning ahead, the stress and potential shock to the tree can potentially be reduced. Why Move A Tree? Trees sometimes need to be moved for a variety of reasons. You may have moved into a new home and the garden has trees planted in the wrong place, such as too close to a structure, or causing too much shade in the wrong place. Trees can sometimes be planted without too much thought with regards to how big they may eventually get and thus, transplanting the tree could be more favourable than simply felling it. However, when thinking about moving a tree it is important to remember that moving an established tree has a certain degree of risk associated with it. Even with the best care when moving and after, there is no certainty that the tree will survive or thrive again. As a general guideline, it is often agreed that a tree younger than 5 years old will have a much better chance of surviving being transplanted, than one which is older.1 However, do bear in mind that some trees can be much more resistant to being transplanted (particularly those with shallow roots) such as magnolias. When considering whether to move a tree or not, it is wise to bear in mind the weight of the tree and its root ball and if it can be moved without help or machinery. For any tree over several years old, we’d strongly advise obtaining advice from an arboriculturist before moving. When To Move A Tree? The most favourable time to transplant a tree depends on the variety. For deciduous trees, the best time to move them is when they have lost their leaves and are dormant, typically anytime between November to early March, here in the UK. Evergreen trees can be fussier about being transplanted and the optimal time to move them is either in October or in March as spring arrives and the soil begins to warm up. However, it is best not to transplant a tree, young or old, when the soil is either frozen or waterlogged. It is far better to wait until more favourable conditions allow. How To Move A Tree 1) Consider Long-Term Preparation If time allows, the preparation of moving a tree should begin a year in advance of moving it. Start by digging a trench, 30cm wide and deep around the tree, approximately under where the branches finish spreading out. Remove the soil and fill the trench with sand. This process (even though it sounds severe) will sever the roots and encourage fibrous roots to form within the trench, which will encourage establishment once transplanted. 2) Prune And Water Well This is also a good time to prune out any dead or diseased branches, which may make the move more manageable. The following year, plan to move the tree according to its variety and water well a couple of days prior to transplanting. For the best chance of a successful move, transplanting needs to be as quick as possible, ideally the same day. However, if this is not possible, it is recommended to wrap the dug-up tree’s root ball with sackcloth, water well and keep out of direct light until it is possible to replant. 3) Prepare Your New Planting Site Before digging up the tree to be moved, it is necessary to prepare the new planting site first, which from experience can often take longer than thought! To prepare the new site, dig a hole 30cm wider than the estimated root ball width and to a depth of at least 30cm. Loosen the soil at the bottom and sides of the hole with a fork, which will encourage the roots to grow. 4) Lift Your Tree Before lifting the tree, it can be helpful to gently tie the branches of the tree together. Start by digging down and under the tree from where the trench was previously dug. Some roots may need to be cut as cleanly as possible with a sharp and disinfected pair of secateurs or pruning saw. Once the root ball is free, carefully lift it. It is often easier, not to mention safer, to involve an extra pair of hands at this stage of lifting and moving the tree. 5) Replant In Your New Planting Site Carefully lower the tree into the previously prepared new hole, checking the roots have enough room to spread freely. The planting depth needs to be the same as it was previously, as any higher or lower can significantly reduce any chances of survival. Placing a bamboo cane horizontally across the hole can prove as a helpful levelling guide. Gently backfill around the roots with subsoil, firming in to eradicate any air pockets that may form. Backfill the last few centimetres with topsoil, firm in again and water well. 6) Stake & Apply Mulch Applying a mulch of organic matter around the base of the tree will help conserve moisture and suppress weeds, but make sure the area around the trunk is kept clear. “I have found wood chip mulch to be extremely effective as a mulch for newly planted or transplanted trees,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Place it at least 1-2m in diameter from the trunk of the tree depending on the size, around 10-15cm deep, ensuring the mulch isn’t in direct contact with the trunk.” Any trees more than a meter tall may need staking, which will prevent against wind rock whilst reestablishing. 7) Care For Your Transplanted Tree Trees that have been transplanted will require more water than normal until established again. Depending on the conditions, water the tree slowly and to a deep level for the first few months at least and especially during dry or hot spells. However, do not allow the soil to become waterlogged which may encourage the roots to rot. Do not be surprised if the tree does not appear to put on any new growth for the first year after transplanting, as the tree is just recovering from being moved – and likely reestablishing its root system. Keep a close eye and come the following spring a general-purpose fertiliser can be applied if required. References 1. Tree and shrubs: moving plants. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/trees/moving-trees-shrubs
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How To Add A Pear Tree (Or Two!) To Your Garden For Early, Mid Or Late-Season Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Pear Tree Varieties Pollination Planting A Pear Tree Creating A Guild Pear Tree Care Harvesting Pears References Adding a pear tree or two to your garden could be an excellent choice. If you love to eat pears, you might be able to grow your very own supply of these fruits in your garden. Pear trees are native to mild areas across Europe.1 These trees sit in the Pyrus genus, which is in the Rosaceae plant family along with roses, and many species of edible fruit such apricot, nectarine and more.2 Around 3,000 varieties of pear are grown and eaten around the world.3 Overview Botanical Name Pyrus communes Common Name(s) Pear Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area Temperate Europe Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White blossom When To Plant April, May, September, October Harvesting Months September, October, November The pear is a pome fruit, like the medlar and the quince for example. The most important species of Pyrus used for orchard and garden cultivars in Europe, North America and Australia is Pyrus communis – the European pear. Though pear trees are not quite as hardy as apples, they can be grown across much of the UK, and in fact, need some winter chilling to produce fruit. Pear Tree Varieties ‘Conference’ Of the various cultivars of pear trees grown in the UK, some of the options to consider are: ‘Beth’ ‘Beurre Hardy’ ‘Concord’ ‘Conference’ ‘Doyenne du Comice’ ‘Flower of Monorgan’ ‘Grey Auchan’ ‘Invincible’ ‘Jargonelle’ ‘Longueville’ ‘Louise Bonne of Jersey’ ‘Maggie’ ‘Merton Pride’ ‘Onward’ ‘Seckle’ ‘Seggie Den’ ‘Pitmaston Duchesse’ ‘Williams Bonne Chrétienne’ ‘Winter Nellis’ When choosing a pear tree it should be noted that some of the above will be suitable for northern England and Scotland, while other varietals will really only thrive in the south. It is a good idea to consider heritage varieties from your particular area. When choosing a pear, you might also like to think about how the different varietals compare when it comes to taste, and whether you are looking for eating or cooking pears. ‘Doyenne du Comice’ You should also consider whether you would like an early, mid-season or late-season pear. Pollination Remember, too, that yields will usually be better if you plant two cultivars from the same flowering period (pollination group) or ones that have an overlapping flowering period. Some pears are also poor pollinators and so two additional trees will usually be required to pollinate this tree, and each other. “You will normally find when buying a pear tree from a UK garden centre or nursery that it is on one of two rootstock types, Quince A and Quince C,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “A Quince C rootstock pear can be trained into a dwarf pyramid, bush, cordon, espalier and fan form. Quince C rootstocks can be a good choice when growing in a large container. “Regardless of form, you will need to keep trees on this rootstock staked or supported permanently. “A Quince A rootstock pear can be trained into a dwarf pyramid, bush, cordon, double and multiple cordons, pole, espalier, fan and semi-standard form. This rootstock tolerates average soil but thrives better in rich soils. “Quince A trees may only need to be staked or supported for the first 5 years if you are not growing in a trained form.” Planting A Pear Tree One important thing to note when deciding where to place new pear trees is that they flower pretty early, and so their blossom can be damaged by spring frosts. It is important to choose a location that is not in a frost pocket, and which is as warm and sheltered as possible – especially if you live further north. It can be a good idea to position a pear tree close to or against a sunny south or west-facing wall. You should grow a pear tree in fertile, moist but well-drained or well-drained soil or growing medium. Pear trees can be grown as half-standard trees in gardens where space is not an issue. Where space is limited, growing pears in bush-trained forms, as fans, espaliers, pyramid or cordon forms can allow pear trees to be grown even in much smaller spaces. Smaller pear trees can also be grown in containers, providing that these are of sufficient size. When To Plant Pear trees can be purchased in pots throughout the year, but are best planted out in spring or autumn, when the ground is not waterlogged nor too dry, and the weather is not too hot. However, it is cheaper, and often the best idea, to purchase and plant bare-root pear trees during the dormant period, between late autumn and early spring. Late summer or early autumn is a good time to choose and order pear trees for your garden. How To Plant Once your pear tree or trees arrive, plant out as soon as possible. Make sure you have prepared a suitable site for your new garden additions. As with other fruit trees, you should dig a planting hole as deep as the rootball and twice as wide. It is a good idea to incorporate some compost and perhaps some mycorrhizal fungi into the planting hole to aid establishment. Refill the soil then water in well – add an organic mulch around the base of the tree and stake or add a protective collar if necessary. Creating A Guild In an organic garden, it is a good idea to create a guild of beneficial companion plants around your pear tree. A well-chosen guild will help you keep your pear tree healthy, and boost the yields that you are able to achieve. The plants in a guild are chosen because they confer certain benefits without creating too much competition for your new tree. The plants chosen for a guild might: Yield environmental benefits – keeping the soil covered to reduce moisture losses, for example. Add fertility – nitrogen fixers add nitrogen while in growth or when chopped and dropped around the base of the tree. Deep-rooted plants can often dynamically accumulate other nutrients from the deeper soil which pear trees cannot reach. These can also be chopped and dropped around the tree, or left to die back or drop their leaves each winter to naturally return nutrients to the surface of the soil. Attract pollinators and ensure good fruit set. Attract other beneficial wildlife like predatory insects – these help keep pest numbers down and the ecosystem in balance. Repel, confuse or distract pest species. For example, around a pear tree you might plant: Comfrey – deep-rooted dynamic accumulator, attracts pollinators. White clover – nitrogen fixing, ground cover. Herbs (e.g. yarrow, borage, tansy, angelica, thyme etc..) for beneficial attraction and pest control. Alliums (e.g. chives, perennial edible onions, ornamental alliums) for pest control. Early spring flowers and bulbs for nutrient retention and pollination services early in the year. Of course, there are many other options you could consider. Pear Tree Care Watering Pear trees in the ground will need watering during dry periods until they become established. After they are established, they will need to be watered only during prolonged periods of drought. Of course, pear trees grown in containers will require more regular watering. Feeding Replenishing your organic mulch around your tree, creating a guild around it, and chopping and dropping plant material from this guild over time should be sufficient to keep your pear tree happy, healthy and productive. If growing a pear tree in a container, you should scoop out and replace the top third of the potting mix every year to replenish the nutrients it contains. Common Problems Pears can be susceptible to a number of pests and diseases. Some common pests include aphids, caterpillars, codling moths, pear midge, pear blister mite and pear slugworm. Pear trees can succumb to diseases such as pear scab, pear rust, blossom wilt, brown rot, and fireblight. Making sure that you choose the right location for your tree, watering and pruning correctly, and ensuring healthy biodiversity in your garden can all help keep issues to a minimum. But make sure you keep a close eye on your pear tree so you can deal with any problems swiftly if they do occur. Harvesting Pears Most pears in the UK will be ready to harvest sometime in September. Pears are picked just before they have ripened fully – the flesh should feel firm and the fruit should have demonstrated a recent (though slight) change in colour. Pears that you have harvested should then be stored for a period before eating. Early varieties will usually be ready to eat within a week or two, but later varieties may need much longer, even months, before they are ready to eat. The tips above should help you understand the basics – over time, you will learn more about your own particular pear tree or trees and the best strategies to employ. References 1. Pear (Pyrus communis). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/pear/ 2. Petruzzello, M. (2014, November 19). List of plants in the family Rosaceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Rosaceae-2001612 3. Pears. (2021, September 27). FoodPrint. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://foodprint.org/real-food/pears/
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Caragana: Where And How To Grow The Incredibly Hardy ‘Siberian Peatree’
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Where To Grow Caragana How To Grow Caragana Ongoing Care Pruning Caragana Common Problems Common Varieties References Caragana plants are a top choice when you have no time, poor soils, exposed locations, hard freezes, and other circs that most plants cannot tolerate. But though it’s as tough as nails, Caragana has brilliant green foliage, merry yellow blooms, and offers up tasty peas in autumn. And it can be grown as a large shrub, screening hedge, or small tree! Overview Botanical Name Caragana arborescens Common Name(s) Siberian Pea Tree, Siberian Pea Shrub Plant Type Tree / Shrub Native Area Siberia / Manchuria Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pale yellow flowers, followed by pods When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months June, July Harvesting Months September, October This is a genus of about 90 species, the vast majority of which are shrubs and only a few are small trees.1 In nature their heights range from 1-6m – however, most of the shrubs can be grown as small trees; indeed, the appearance and habit of some is in that grey zone between shrub and small tree. C. arborescens Consider that Caragana arborescens, the ‘flagship species’ is informally called ’Siberian Pea Shrub’ or ‘Siberian Pea Tree’ depending on whom you ask! It is also called ‘Russian Acacia’. Genus Caragana is a member of Family Fabaceae or the Pea Family.2 Not surprisingly, most species’ leguminous fruits are edible. Indeed, in British gardens those few Caragana species that are of interest are a ‘two for the price of one’ deal: they function as ornamental plants as well as edible ones. Essentially a Sino-Russian genus, Caragana shrubs are deployed for environmental purposes including erosion control and dune-fixation, and as windbreaks. As the season wears on, the flowers of many of the species form into edible leguminous pods – and then you’re faced with a choice. You can pick the pods and enjoy the delicious peas inside. Or you can let the pods mature on the plant, and wait, and wait, and…pop! Caragana pods have the endearing habit of bursting with an audible sound to scatter their seeds. Habitat & Growing Conditions Caragana species grow in an abundance of habitats in China, Russia and Central Asia from desert to forest, taking in grasslands, shrublands, steppes, and hills and mountains. C. arborescens and most of the species make their homes in infertile and poor soils, including alkaline soils. They withstand a fair amount of drought and aridity and they are immune to exposure and sea spray. Many species grow in frigid conditions well below zero. As one may expect, a plant with ‘Siberian’ in its name is fully hardy with a hardiness rating of Zone H7, as are most of the other species. C. arborescens and its cultivars are said to crop reliably and heavily in the eastern part of the UK but not quite as well in the western half, because of the difference in rainfall patterns. Where To Grow Caragana Caragana tolerates, hmmm – everything! Its toughness does give the gardener numerous options. You can use Caraganas to make a decorative windbreak that will offer summer colour and also autumn veggies. A row of suitably pruned Siberian Pea Shrubs could be used to make a pretty and utilitarian low screen (though in winters you will lose the screening effect). These plants can be treated as flowering bushes and grown in a cottage garden and also in a backyard kitchen garden. The weeping varieties are, of course, highly ornamental small trees. They are eminently suitable for a courtyard garden. They will have aesthetic value if planted in a row along a walkway, and also when used as a focal point at the door or by the dwelling’s wall between windows. Finally, if you have poor soil, a windswept location, a coastal site, or even all three, Caragana is one of the plants that will work very well for you. How To Grow Caragana Caragana species can be grown from seed, rooted from softwood cuttings, or bought as potted plants. The drawback to sowing seeds or rooting cuttings is that you will see flowers and pick peas after at least three years, most likely five. Sow seeds directly outdoors in spring. Scarify and soak half your seeds prior to sowing. Sow them about 1cm deep directly outdoors. Water in moderation and continue to water the bed. You should see seedlings sprouting in 15-20 days. Softwood cuttings too should be rooted in spring. Planting If you have a potted plant, transplant it in spring, otherwise in summer. The planting hole should be about as deep as the root system and about twice the width. Put the plant in the hole such that the roots are properly spread out and backfill the hole, making sure the soil level (of the main stem) is the same as it was in the pot and not any higher. Give it a good watering – water moderately every two or three days for a few weeks after which you may water it weekly. “Good weekly water during spring, summer, and dry autumn will help the health and establishment of your Caragana and will also give you the best chance of a good harvest,” shares Horticulturist Dan Ori. Ongoing Care Caragana species are very tough plants and do not require much care; the weeping cultivars, on the other hand, do need some attention. Caragnas should be sited in full sun or at least partial sun. Soil Though they will thrive even in poor soils, a gravel- and sand-based loam tending from Neutral to Moderately Acidic with organic compost or humus mixed in will allow the plant to flourish. Above all the soil should be well-drained. Feeding Caragana varieties do not need fertilising. However, you may certainly fertilise annually in early spring or mid-spring. Use a 0-10-10 liquid fertiliser. Pruning Caragana How you prune C. arborescens is entirely dependent on whether you want a Siberian Pea Shrub or a Siberian Pea Tree. For the former, you will pinch out the tip, control the height, and encourage early branching and bushiness; for the latter, you will promote the leader, prune sideshoots, and discourage early branching. Pruning Caragana also strongly depends on how you want to use these multi-purpose plants. For instance, if you want to create a flowering hedge that functions as a windbreak using Caragana, then you will have to prune the plants accordingly, by cutting back the stems to begin with. Do not prune the weeping cultivars other than to trim branches that may touch the ground and to remove shoots that may emerge from the side of the trunk. If you pick the pods when they are young, very soon after they form, the tender peas inside can even be enjoyed raw. However, it is not a problem if you pick them a little late, for more mature peas are perfectly fine in cooked dishes. Common Problems Caragana is not known to suffer from any pests or diseases. Birds may take a liking to the pods so you may have to guard your peas from being consumed before you get to them. Common Varieties C. arborescens AKA: Siberian Pea Shrub or Siberian Pea Tree The ‘lead’ species, so to speak, of the genus. Though numerous Caragana species are appreciated and grown for different purposes in China, Tibet, and Russia, this is the most well-known one in the UK (and the USA as well). It typically grows to 3-4.5m but may reach up to 6m. Its buttery yellow flowers blossom in May or June, and their fragrance and nectar pulls bees and butterflies. You can very much decide whether C. arborescens becomes a small tree or a shrub by pruning it per your choice – while this species also makes excellent bonsai plants. C. arborescens ‘Walker’ AKA: Walker’s Weeping Pea Shrub A small tree which has four equidistant stems arching out from the top of the central stem and ‘weeping’ downward. It is a cultivar that needs a little help from its human friends to start ‘weeping’ and attain its form, which is not a natural one. Stems are grafted on the top of the developing trunk. Once grafted, the stems grow outward and downward naturally without reaching the ground or coming close to it. The bright light green leaves are small and fine, even somewhat feathery. It attains a height of only 1.5-1.8m with a spread of about 1m. It was developed in Manitoba, Canada and is becoming a sought-after variety in both the United Kingdom and the United States. C. arborescens ‘Pendula’ The two names may be mistaken as synonyms for the same variety but this is not the case. ‘Pendula’ too is a small tree with a weeping form but there are a few points of difference. Its pendulous branches come very close to the ground, and may need to be trimmed. The foliage is quite dense all round the tree but has an airy and fluffed-up look. The bark is noticeably smooth and sheeny. Finally, this variety grows from 1.5m to an ultimate height of nearly 3m with a spread of 1-2m that is made pronounced by the fluffed-up foliage. It is also experiencing a rise in demand on both sides of the Pond. C. sinica Attains heights of 1.5-2m. It bears insignificant yellow flowers of only 1cm. It has dark brown bark and is native to central and eastern China. C. pygmaea Is, as one might expect, a dwarf variety. It attains a height of only about 50cm. Among its set of special features are golden yellow branches and brilliant green leaves. The yellow flower is 1-1.5cm with short upper claws. It is an excellent no-maintenance deciduous shrub for rockeries with poor soil. References 1. Caragana. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:21935-1 2. Caragana frutex. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/caragana-frutex/
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Grow Weeping Willow Trees For Their Ornamental And Practical Value - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Weeping Willow? How To Grow A Weeping Willow Planting A Weeping Willow Weeping Willow Care References Weeping willow are huge, beautiful trees which can find a place in many gardens. Willow (Salix spp.) is a genus of trees that can come in a range of shapes, sizes and forms. Weeping varieties are plants within this genus that have pendulous branches, which bend over and drape towards the ground. Overview Plant Name Weeping Willow Common Types Salix babylonica, Salix alba ‘Tristis’, Salix purpurea ‘Pendula’ etc. Plant Type Tree Native Area Temperate Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating H5-H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Various When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months March, April When To Prune February, March When people talk about weeping willow, there are a number of different trees to which they could be referring. S. babylonica They are often referring to S. babylonica – a deciduous tree with weeping form. They can grow to around 8-12m tall, with a similar width. However, this tree does not usually thrive in the UK, and is now largely replaced with the below in cultivation. S. alba ‘Tristis’ Another weeping willow is Salix x sepulcralis var. chrysocoma (also referred to as Salix alba ‘Tristis’). It is also sometimes referred to as ‘Golden Weeping Willow’. This is a hybrid of our native white willow, and the above-mentioned Salix babylonica; it is common in parks and gardens and is one of the first willows to come into leaf, in March. This is a large tree, which grows taller than 12m and wider than 8m. S. purpurea ‘Pendula’ Purple weeping willow, S. purpurea ‘Pendula’ is another weeping willow to consider. This is a fairly compact willow tree, which grows to around 3.5 x 2.5m. S. caprea ‘Pendula’ The term ‘weeping willow’ can also refer to S. caprea ‘Pendula’, which goes by the names weeping goat willow, weeping pussy willow or Kilmarnock willow. This is an even smaller tree more suited to smaller gardens which will grow to around 1.5-2.5m in both height and width. S. integra ‘Pendula’ Another small tree is a dwarf weeping willow, S. integra ‘Pendula’, which has a compact height and width of just around 1.5 x 1m. Why Grow Weeping Willow? Weeping willows are extremely attractive ornamental trees. Their pendulous form, along with their foliage and catkins produced in the spring make these very pretty trees to consider adding to a garden. However, beyond their ornamental appeal, there are a range of other reasons to grow willows like these in your garden. Willow bark can be used to make a rooting compound which is used to help cuttings to root more successfully. The stems and bark are also very useful in basketry and in a range of other craft projects – and good charcoal can be made from the wood. Beyond these uses, willow can also be useful in land management and in organic garden design – it can help in managing water and solving waterlogging issues. Willows can also help to stabilise the soil with their vigorous and extensive root systems. How To Grow A Weeping Willow Willows all like moderately deep, fertile soils in full sun. They tend to like moist conditions and some can cope well with waterlogged or even wetland margin sites. They will often be positioned on a riverbank, or close to a garden pond. They can cope with a wide range of different soil types and pH levels, and can cope with exposed sites. Some even cope with maritime exposure and willows also tend to have good tolerance to atmospheric pollution. One thing to note is that willows, especially larger weeping willows, have extensive and moisture-seeking roots which can cause problems with drains. To play it safe do not place a weeping willow (especially a bigger one) too close to buildings, water pipes or a septic system. Planting A Weeping Willow Willows do not tend to respond well to transplanting, so care should be taken to plant them into their permanent positions as soon as possible. Weeping willow trees are most frequently purchased as pot-grown specimens. These can be planted out at any time of the year. However, it is best to plant these out in spring or early autumn and to avoid planting during particularly hot and dry periods. Willows can sometimes also be purchased as bare-root plants and planted out during the dormant period. When planting a weeping willow, dig a hole that is the same depth as the root ball, and around twice as wide. You can consider adding mycorrhizal fungi to the planting hole to aid establishment. Firm a mix of the existing soil and compost back around the root ball, making sure that the willow is planted at the same depth as it was before. Make sure that you do not bank up the soil around the base of the tree – mulch well with organic matter but make sure that this does not touch the trunk. Weeping Willow Care Watering Weeping willow trees should be watered well during dry periods, especially during the first few months as they become established. These trees will need more watering in summer, and less as temperatures fall. Feeding Your weeping willow should not require additional fertilisation as long as the soil is suitably nutritious and you mulch with organic matter. Replenish the mulch around your weeping willow each spring to maintain fertility. Protection It is important to keep the area around a young weeping willow tree free from competing weeds and grass for the first couple of growing seasons. However, as when planting anything else in your garden, you should think holistically and consider the other plants which could be placed close by to form guilds of companion plants that will help keep your willow tree healthy and create a resilient ecosystem. If you live in an area with rabbits or deer, using a tree guard for the first couple of years after planting will be a good idea. Pruning Do not prune a young weeping willow for its first year. After this, you can prune damaged or diseased branches at any time of the year – to encourage a clear stem, prune lower branches off the lower portion of the main trunk in the winter months, during the dormant period. Weeping willows fall into RHS pruning group 1. They naturally form a well-balanced framework and need little pruning, if any at all. However, they can also be hard pruned to rejuvenate an older specimen, or pollarded if desired. “Many of the smaller weeping willows are top-grafted, meaning a piece of the weeping variety is effectively biologically welded to a more upright rootstock tree at a height of around 1m to allow it to cascade,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “For this reason, the hard pruning of weeping willows is generally best avoided and pruning below the graft level will mean you ultimately end up with a different tree!” Weeping willows are beautiful and useful trees – if you have a suitable spot in your garden, there may be a weeping willow that is right for you.
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Cornus ‘Dogwood’ - How Experts Grow This Plant For Year-Round Colour
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Dogwoods Dogwood Care Tree Pruning Common Problems Want an ornamental tree for a postage-stamp-sized landscape in your garden? One that will provide virtually year-round colour? Well, a flowering Dogwood will offer richly-hued de facto flowers for a couple of months. Bright scarlet berries, most of them edible, will follow. Autumn will produce blazes of reds and purples, and winter will bring lovely branching forms or highly-textured bark into view. Overview Botanical Name Cornus Common Name(s) Dogwood Plant Type Trees / Shrubs / Hedging Native Area Eurasia, Indo-China, North America, Central Africa Hardiness Rating H5/H6 Foliage Dark-green, deciduous, ovate leaves Flowers Distinctive white flowers When To Sow May, June, July, August, September Flowering Months March, April, May When To Prune March If you want several garden landscape trees with notable ornamental value and which will provide year-round interest, look no further than Dogwood trees. Some species are even appreciated for their eye-pulling, textured bark. And this is only a general outline – virtually each variety of Dogwood brings its own very special ornamental value and visual appeal to the garden. Dogwood trees belong to Genus Cornus but not all Cornus are Dogwoods as such, for Dogwood trees are a subset of this genus which is further composed of much-branching shrubs and also a few rhizomatous subshrubs. However, there is no hard-and-fast line between Cornus trees and Cornus shrubs because several species or cultivars can be either a tall shrub, or a small tree, depending on whether or not the specimen is pruned, and how it is pruned. “Some Cornus shrubs have brightly coloured stems and are normally coppiced annually for a winter display,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “This is a different group of plants to the Flowering Dogwoods described in this article.” Most Dogwood trees are quite slow-growing even though they are not overstorey trees or particularly tall trees. Many Dogwood varieties including very popular C. kousa and cultivars reach heights of only about 7m and even most of the taller ones usually attain heights of 10-12m. Some species take ‘only’ 20 years to attain their ultimate height while others take 30 and even 40 years. As a result Dogwood wood is of a superb quality, being strong and dense – it is also desirable for its pretty grain patterns. How To Grow Dogwoods Where To Plant As understorey trees, Dogwoods are quite comfortable in part-shade locations. However, the sun-shade preference depends on the particular variety and also the climatic zone that that variety is planted in. In most regions of England, siting Kousa varieties in dappled sunlight or afternoon shade would be preferable over full sun. At the same time, do not plant them in full shade which would be worse than full sun. American-native Cornus varieties should be sited in full sun, otherwise partial sun. As smaller trees with shallow roots, Dogwood trees need to be watered. The sunnier their location and the hotter the weather, the greater their requirement for water, both in amount and frequency. Dogwood trees may be called landscape-ornamental trees; they are not shade trees and certainly not tall trees, and should be sited accordingly. Depending on the particular variety of Dogwood tree, it can be planted in front of a dwelling or behind it, at the boundary of a property, or at the rear of flowering bushes. With hardiness ratings of Zone H5 or H6, all Dogwood trees are hardy throughout the United Kingdom. Propagation Cornus trees can be propagated in any number of ways: from seed, softwood cuttings, semi-hardwood cuttings, hardwood cuttings, grafting, and even suckers, each method in the season-appropriate and suitable to it. Virtually every variety of these trees can be propagated by at least two of these methods. Propagating Dogwood trees from seeds is troublesome and is a method best left to experts; also trees grown from seeds take several years to mature. Grafting is the method of choice but this method also requires expertise. Though you can grow some Dogwood tree varieties from cuttings without much difficulty, you will have to match the method to the variety as well as the season, after which you will need to prune correctly and watch over it patiently as it will take years to mature. Amateurs and home gardeners will typically get Dogwood trees as a potted plant or bare root plant. If you have a choice between the two, opt for a potted plant even though it will cost more, as these can be planted year-round as opposed to bare-root which must be planted in winter. Dogwood Care Soil Requirements The best soil for Dogwood trees is a loose, fertile one that drains very well. Densely-packed or heavy soils are unsuitable. Sandy loam amended with organic humus, compost, peat, or some combination thereof would be perfect. It may have a layer of gravel or perlite. Dogwood trees prefer acidic soils. Cornus florida and other American-originated varieties require acidic soils; they will not thrive in close to neutral pH soil. C. controversa Soil pH in the moderately acidic to slightly acidic range should work well – 5.6-6.5 (which may be a little lower but not a little higher). C. kousa and its cultivars also prefer acidic soil but the slightly acidic to neutral range is best for these varieties. Ideally, potted Dogwoods should be transplanted during mid-winter to mid-spring. Do not transplant them in autumn. Grafting Many potted Dogwoods are grafts. Try to spot the graft and plant the tree so that the graft line is well above the soil level otherwise the tree will revert to the rootstock or may even die. The most straightforward way to go about it is to plant it to a soil level matching that at which it was in the pot. Otherwise, if you get a bare-root tree, plant it to about three-fourths of the root ball, keeping about a quarter of it above ground. Do not store a bare root Dogwood after you receive it. Unpack it immediately, examine the root system for problems, and set it in a large bucket of water for the root system to soak for 12-15 hours prior to planting. Watering After transplanting a potted tree give it a heavy watering. Give a bare root specimen whose roots had been soaked a moderate watering. Keep in mind that Dogwoods are shallow-rooted trees; therefore, they should be watered periodically and consistently. They are not drought-tolerant trees. The amount of sun and extent of the heat would dictate the amount and frequency of watering. You will need to be more attentive to the water needs of developing and young trees than mature and established ones. At the same time be sure that the roots do not get waterlogged and that the soil drains well. Fertilising Dogwood trees do not need fertilising, especially if your soil is fertile and has organic content, but if you must, fertilise only from its third year. Fertilise in early spring using a lighter-than-recommended application of 12-8-8 liquid fertiliser. Mulching around the base will be helpful no matter what region you are in. In warm, sunny climates, it will keep the soil moist for longer; in frigid climates it will protect the roots during hard frosts. Tree Pruning Dogwood tree varieties require little, if any, pruning and some should not be pruned at all. Shrubs on the other hand do require a stricter pruning regimen. Be aware, though, that if you wish to grow a Cornus shrub as a miniature tree, you will need to choose a leader, pinch out competing stems, and let the leader develop to the fullest. For the most part, all you need to do is to prune dead, broken, or diseased branches (such branches must be removed). Other than that, you should prune when two branches are crossed and touching one another. If you see a branch emerging from the base of the tree, this too should be pruned for cosmetic reasons. All pruning should be done in winter and no later than early spring. Larger branches should be pruned using the Three-Cut Method. Be very careful about removing any suckers attached to the trunk of the tree as you do not want to cause a wound on the trunk. Suckers observed on the nearby ground may be removed in winter or the sucker shoots may be mowed over during any season. Common Problems Dogwood trees are generally very pest-free trees. The Asiatic varieties plus C. nuttallii and, particularly, C. florida and its cultivars (but not other American species) are susceptible to cornus anthracnose. It is a fungal disease that causes blotches on leaves and defoliation, and dieback of stems. Cornus anthracnose cannot be treated by the hobbyist gardener; this disease calls for the attention of a professional botanist or horticulturist. Fallen leaves and affected parts of the tree should be removed and destroyed. You can avoid fungal diseases, root rots, and such by ensuring that the tree is planted in the right type of soil, that the soil pH is not alkaline, it is not sited in full shade, and the soil does not stay damp or waterlogged.
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