Growing
15 Knockout Trees With Foliage That Turns Red In Autumn
IN THIS GUIDE Why Do Leaves Turn Red In Autumn? 1) Japanese Maple 2) Japanese Rowan 3) Forest Pansy 4) Snowy Mespilus 5) Stag’s Horn Sumach 6) Katsura Tree 7) Sweet Gum 8) Flowering Dogwood 9) Sorrel Tree 10) Red Oak 11) Tupelo 12) European Spindle 13) Cherry ‘Royal Burgundy’ 14) Golden Full Moon Maple 15) Tall Stewartia Added Considerations Take It As ‘Red’ References In the US it’s not unusual for people to make a seasonal pilgrimage to see the ‘fall colours’ – so renowned are their beauty. The sudden shift of millions of trees from their summer green to autumn red foliage draws onlookers from around the country, including people who for the rest of the year would scarcely bat an eyelid at the beauty of the natural world. Truly a sight to behold In the UK it’s not such a tourist attraction, mainly because there aren’t really any parts of the country where large numbers of trees are in sparse supply. But there’s no denying that the autumnal medley of red is a sight worth seeing. That’s why we’ve pulled together some fantastic trees whose foliage turns red in the UK autumn. Whether you use this list to plan a woodland walk so you can catch the turning colours as autumn sets in, or you use it to advise which trees to plant in your garden, we hope that these trees give you the chance to experience something beautiful. Why Do Leaves Turn Red In Autumn? Before we launch into the list, here’s a little intro to why some leaves turn red when others don’t. The first thing to note is that chlorophyll, the chemical famously involved in photosynthesis, absorbs red and blue light, meaning that the green part of the spectrum is reflected back. This is why most plants usually look green.1 In the autumn, certain plants use the excess sugar leftover from homeostasis to create anthocyanins.2 This chemical produces a pigment that reflects the red part of the spectrum, creating vivid displays of colour that vary depending on the levels of anthocyanin and chlorophyll: a deep red leaf will have much more of the former, where an orange leaf will have more of a combination of the two.3 With the science out of the way, let’s take a look at some autumn trees that turn red in the UK. 1) Japanese Maple BOTANICAL NAME: Acer palmatum HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 4M x 8M While the name is distinctly un-British, the Japanese Maple grows a treat in our climate. Whether in the ground or in a container this tree will burst into a busy and beautifully coloured bloom as the summer begins to dwindle. We particularly like the flexibility the Japanese maple affords gardeners. If you’re lucky enough to have a large outdoor space you can plant this in the ground and enjoy the gradual growth into a full-sized tree, whereas if you’re working with a smaller space, you can have a smaller plant thriving in a container. The tree is easy to take care of, too: just give a little mulch in spring, fertilise occasionally, and you’ll probably get away with minimal pruning or training as well. 2) Japanese Rowan BOTANICAL NAME: Sorbus commixta HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M Another plant whose name hails from the famous Asian island nation, the Japanese Rowan sports red berries in autumn followed by a rich and distinctly autumnal bloom. As with the Japanese Maple this plant can be grown as a tree or a shrub depending on the space you have available, affording a good amount of flexibility to a range of gardeners. Japanese rowan is most often bought as a single stem tree which will give rise to a much larger one as the years go by. In the ground the maximum size is about 8×12 metres, achieved over a period of twenty years or more. In a container, you should expect smaller growth, with the exact eventual dimensions determined by the size of the pot. For healthiest growth choose a spot with full sun or partial shade, in any aspect. Soil acidity should be acidic or neutral, and try to avoid chalky soil if possible. 3) Forest Pansy BOTANICAL NAME: Cercis canadensis HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 4M x 8M Before you double-check that you’re reading an article about trees that turn red, let us clarify: this plant, Cercis canadensis, is different from the Viola family of flowers, many of which are commonly known as pansies. So, instead of the delightfully colourful flowers you’ll find in many a British garden, the forest pansy is a small tree that is renowned for its striking foliage. In spring and summer you can expect rich purple leaves, giving way to a wonderful yellow as they begin to fall. This plant is interesting for fading out of redness in the autumn, rather than into it. Grown near plants that follow the opposite pattern, the shifting palettes of colour can create a striking effect. For best results grow in full sun or partial shade, in a south- or west-facing aspect. You can expect an eventual size of about 8x10m, achieved over a period of about twenty years. 4) Snowy Mespilus BOTANICAL NAME: Amelanchier lamarckii HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M This tree goes by a few names: you may also see it called Snowy mespilus, juneberry, or Amelanchier lamarckii. Whatever you call it; this is a great choice for gardens that need that little lift of autumnal colour. The snowy-white floral bloom in spring gives way to red fruit in summer and deep orange-red leaves in the autumn. This is one of our faves thanks to the sheer variety of colours on offer throughout the year. The berries of this tree are edible, too, if you’re feeling adventurous. They’re part of a subset of berry that don’t enjoy enough fame and familiarity to make their way onto the supermarket shelves, but which are a tasty treat nonetheless. Again a testament to what an appealing tree this is to have growing in your garden! In terms of conditions, the juneberry tree likes full sun or partial shade, isn’t fussy in terms of aspect, and prefers acidic or neutral soil. Avoid prolonged exposure to excessive moisture. 5) Stag’s Horn Sumach BOTANICAL NAME: Rhus typhina HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 8M Here’s another plant with several names: also keep an eye out for rhus, velvet sumac, and vinegar tree. The stag’s horn sumach is renowned for its red autumnal display; to the degree that it’s one of the main reasons gardeners choose to grow it. “Rhus typhina is a spreading tree, sprouting from its roots and gradually moving to favourable locations,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist Consultant with an array of gardening experience. “The good news is that stems arising where they aren’t wanted can easily be cut back at the base and thickets thinned to provide a multi-stemmed tree. “Planted in a prairie-style planting, Rhus typhina can add height and volume to the planting, creating a late highlight of red foliage colour in the planting as the late perennial flowers fade.” We also like this one for the intriguing floral clusters they display in spring and summer: the configuration and colour is unusual and striking, bringing something distinctive to your garden before the autumn bloom sets in. Part of choosing the right tree for your garden is going for something that performs more than one function. With the amelanchier you get the novelty of an edible berry each for a few weeks each year. With the plants further up this list you get the quintessential autumn bloom. And with stag’s horn sumach, you get two distinct seasons of visual interest, making this a plant with a lot to offer to the discerning gardener. This tree thrives in full sun, but take care to avoid a north-facing aspect. Any soil acidity should be OK, and it will do well exposed or in shelter. 6) Katsura Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Cercidiphyllum japonicum HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 8M x 12M 7) Sweet Gum BOTANICAL NAME: Liquidambar styraciflua HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 8M x 12M 8) Flowering Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus kousa HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 4M x 8M 9) Sorrel Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Oxydendrum arboreum HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 10M 10) Red Oak BOTANICAL NAME: Quercus rubra HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 12M x 8M 11) Tupelo BOTANICAL NAME: Nyssa sylvatica HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M 12) European Spindle BOTANICAL NAME: Euonymus europaeus HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 4M x 4M 13) Cherry ‘Royal Burgundy’ BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus ‘Royal Burgundy’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M 14) Golden Full Moon Maple BOTANICAL NAME: Acer shirasawanum ‘Aureum’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 8M 15) Tall Stewartia BOTANICAL NAME: Stewartia monadelpha HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M Added Considerations When looking for a beautiful burst of red in autumn, there’s more to consider than just choosing plants and trees that turn red. You also need to remember that – Sunlight is important! Just as plants need sunlight to grow, the gentle rays encourage the reddening of the leaves in the autumn months. A plant in full sun or partial shade will have a much more impressive red display than one lurking in full shade. The soil needs to be within the correct pH range. As with sunlight, ensuring a plant has its needs satisfied when it comes to soil acidity will pave the way for the brightest red displays. You shouldn’t over-fertilise. Ease off on fertilising and watering your trees as autumn sets in, because over-feeding them will interrupt the colourful display. Take It As ‘Red’ While the fall colours in New England and other famed landscapes of America may be a sight to behold, red foliage is far from exclusive to these regions. In the UK we’re blessed to be in much closer proximity to our areas of outstanding national beauty, and even if you don’t want to make a holiday out of it, there are plenty of options to bring the illustrious red autumn bloom right into the comfort of your own back garden. In this article we’ve spotlighted fifteen trees with red leaves in autumn, but there are many more to choose from. So whether you’re a gardener with space for many trees in your ample backyard, or a gardener deciding which tree to plant in the one container you can fit on your small balcony, you’ve got plenty of options. With young trees available to buy online and from many garden centres, you don’t need to wait years and years for the fruits of your labour to pay off, either. We hope you enjoyed this article, and that you are soon enjoying the rich medley of red in your very own garden. References 1. Why are plants green? (2021, October 27). John Innes Centre. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.jic.ac.uk/blog/why-are-plants-green/ 2. Klein, J. (2016, October 25). Why Does Fall Foliage Turn So Red and Fiery? The New York Times. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/26/science/leaves-fall-foliage-colors-red.html 3. Why Leaves Turn Red. (n.d.). Harvard Forest. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://harvardforest.fas.harvard.edu/sites/default/files/leaves/2002_11_leaf_article.pdf
Learn more
Damsons Are Often Overlooked - Why You Should Grow This Fruit Tree In Your Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Damsons Damson Tree Care Harvesting Common Problems References Damsons are the purple gems of top fruit, not dissimilar to plums, but with smaller and more oval-shaped fruits. The damson trees upon which the fruit is grown produce a wonderful blossom in the spring, with the fruits being ready to harvest late summer to early autumn. Damson trees take a long time to mature and produce a harvest, but when they do it is so worth it. Overview Botanical Name Prunus insititia Common Name(s) Damson Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area Origins Unknown Hardiness Rating H5/H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White spring blossoms When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months April Harvesting Months August, September, October When To Prune June, July Damsons, or Prunus insititia, are small, purple-coloured stony fruits grown here in the United Kingdom for their culinary uses and spring blossom. They are often, rather sadly overlooked by the common plum and are grown on small trees and crop only once a year in late summer to early autumn. Commonly grown varieties include Farleigh Damson AGM, Shropshire Damson and ‘Merryweather’ (pictured above). How To Grow Damsons Damsons are produced on trees and ready to harvest from August to October in the UK. They will come true from a saved stone, but you could be waiting many years for the tree to mature and bear fruit. Most damsons are self-fertile and do not require another nearby. Damson trees are readily available from online fruit tree suppliers and most often purchased as a bare root tree, grafted onto a specific rootstock to control its growth. Bare root simply means that it comes with no soil around its roots and is thus easier and cheaper to transport. Potted trees can be available but at an added cost. The fruit tree planting season here in the UK is between November and March, when the trees are dormant. Where To Grow Damson trees are most commonly planted directly in the ground. However, they can be available grown on a dwarf ‘pixie’ rootstock that can be grown successfully in a large pot or container. Tree shapes can include, standard, half-standard and dwarf – some specialist fruit growers even offer damsons as columns, step overs or even fan trained ready to be grown against a wall. The rootstock they are grown on decides their mature height and spread so it is wise to check this before purchasing, as there is nothing more frustrating than the fruit being out of reach. Damson trees are happiest in full sun and a relatively sheltered position; south or west-facing is ideal. Planting Planting a bare root tree is no more difficult than planting a root-balled tree. Ideally, a bare root tree should be planted swiftly on arrival to avoid it drying out. However, this may not be possible due to the ground being frozen or covered in snow; if this is the case store the tree with the polythene around its roots in a cool place like a garage or shed. The main thing is not to let the root system dry out and so avoid putting it anywhere near a heat source. To plant: Dig a hole at least as deep as the roots and up to twice as wide. If the soil is hard break up the base and sides of the hole with a garden fork. Drive in the tree stake close to where the main stem will be. Add some fertiliser and lower the tree into the hole, gently spread out the roots and make sure that it is planted at the same depth as it was previously. Backfill around the roots so the soil is level with the surrounding soil, gently press the soil down to eliminate any air gaps around the roots. Water well and top up the soil if it subsides. If planting against a wall, it is good to be aware that the adjacent area is often very dry, so it is recommended to plant the tree approximately 30-40cm away from the wall. Damson Tree Care Watering Newly planted trees need watering for the first 2 years, especially during the spring and summer. Water to the base of the tree, slowly so it can be absorbed. Unless you are in an urban area place a tree guard around the stem to protect the tree from rabbits and deer as they love to eat the bark. Tie in the tree to the stake with a suitable rubber tree tie to help protect it and keep it vertical in strong winds. The stake and tie can be removed once established, usually after 2 years. Pruning Damsons are classed in RHS pruning group 1 and require annual pruning in the spring or early summer.1 It is important not to prune a damson during the winter as this can make them susceptible to silver leaf disease. Pruning methods usually depend on their form and habit. Harvesting Damson blossom signals that spring has arrived – their blossom is a wonderful sight with single, small white flowers. Damsons are reliable croppers producing a bountiful harvest for years to come, unless a late frost damages the blossom. If using the fruits for cooking or making jam it is best to wait until the fruits are soft to the touch and a deep purple, usually from August onwards. If you plan to make gin with them, then the fruits can be picked slightly earlier when slightly firm. Common Problems Aphids The two most common types of aphids that are attracted to damson trees are leaf-curing and mealy plum aphids. The leaf-curling aphid affects the foliage during spring leading to leaf distortion and the mealy plum aphid which although does not distort the foliage, leaves a sticky honey dew allowing sooty mould to grow. Check the trees regularly from spring onwards as once any leaves have been distorted by the leaf-curling aphid there is little that can be done. Non-pesticidal control can include encouraging predators such as ladybirds, hoverflies and parasitoid wasps, as well as squishing by hand. Pesticidal controls can include using a plant oil wash in winter, fatty acid and oil sprays and insecticides if infestations are severe. Brown Scale Brown scale are insects that are found on the woody parts of damson trees. Small infestations can be tolerated with minimal consequences, but if large infestations occur, they can lead to decreased vigour and growth. Controls for brown scale are the same as for aphids as above. Plum Moth The plum moth can affect damson trees and can lead to caterpillars eating the damson fruit. The caterpillars are pale pink in colour and are small, only 1cm long. Usually only the first fruits are affected and ideally should be tolerated as only a small proportion of the crop are afflicted. Non-pesticidal approaches could include encouraging natural predators. Pheromone traps that entice the males can be hung in the tree in May, these do not control the numbers but can give a good indication if further action is needed.2 Organic insecticides with natural pyrethrin as the main ingredient can give effective, but short-lived control. For more persistent infections an insecticide such as deltamethrin or cypermethrin may be applied. It is important to note that trees should not be sprayed whilst in flower to avoid any danger to pollinators. “One good organic control for many damson pests and diseases is to collect affected fruits and leaves as soon as you notice them,” adds Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “If you don’t want to have a fire to burn these leaves, I suggest adding them to your household waste or taking them to your local council waste recycling centre and disposing of them in the green waste. “It is important not to try and compost it at home as you will be unlikely to build up the temperatures to kill the pests and diseases that council composting will.” References 1. Shrubs and trees: light pruning. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/trees/trees-shrubs-light-pruning 2. Pheromone trapping. (2022, February 14). Forest Research. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/tools-and-resources/fthr/pest-and-disease-resources/oak-processionary-moth-thaumetopoea-processionea/opm-manual-9-pheromone-trapping/
Learn more
From Cedar To Yew - Dan Ori Shares His Favourite Coniferous Tree Types
IN THIS GUIDE Why Grow Coniferous Trees? 1) Cedar 2) Cypress 3) Douglas Fir 4) Fir 5) Hemlock 6) Juniper 7) Larch 8) Monkey Puzzle Tree 9) Pine 10) Spruce 11) Yew References Conifers can be very useful, long-lasting design elements in a garden. They can sometimes be useful features as trees to provide year-round cover. They can be used in hedgerows on their own, or combined with deciduous options in mixed hedgerows. Coniferous trees can also come in dwarf of ground growing varieties, which can be useful in mixed beds or borders, or in pots. Why Grow Coniferous Trees? These trees are useful because they usually keep their needles or thin leaves all year round, and not only improve the appearance of a winter garden but also provide shelter for a range of wildlife. Choosing the right coniferous tree is important – some grow extremely quickly while others are much more slow-growing. Some are neat and compact, while others can tend to take over and will outgrow a smaller garden. Conifers can be good choices due to their density and the privacy they can afford. But it is important to think about the shade they will cast, and their impact on other plants grown nearby. They can be excellent low maintenance garden plants, which often won’t require a lot of your care or effort. Coniferous trees are, quite simply, those which bear cones.1 There are some fantastic (and some not quite so appealing) options to choose. Some fast-growing conifers like the notorious Leyland cypress are not the best choice for most gardens, and are often best avoided. While many conifers work extremely well, even in container gardens and where space is tight, coniferous trees should always be chosen and positioned very carefully. Where conifers are incorporated correctly, they can be very appealing and grace your garden for many years to come. So to help you make the right choice or choices for your garden, here are some conifers which are commonly grown here in Britain: 1) Cedar Cedrus atlantica Cedar, Cedrus, are commonly grown in larger gardens and estates in the UK. Species within this genus are: C. atlantica (Atlas Cedar) C. brevifolia (Cyprus cedar) C. deodara (Himalayan cedar) C. libani (Cedar of Lebanon) These are majestic trees are typically grown as stand-alone specimen trees in larger gardens. But cedars can also be trained as bonsai, and can be grown in pots and shaped to give different effects.2 Those above are ‘true cedars’, but other coniferous trees commonly grown in British gardens are also called cedars. For example: Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar) T. occidentalis (Northern white cedar / eastern arborvitae) Juniperus virginiana (Red Cedar / Eastern Red Cedar) Calocedrus decurrens (Incense Cedar) 2) Cypress Leyland cypress Cypress is the common name for a range of coniferous trees or shrubs in the family Cupressaceae. Some cypress commonly grown on these shores include: Cupressus sempervirens (Mediterranean Cypress / Italian cypress) C. macrocarpa (Monterey Cypress) C. x leylandii (Leyland cypress – a hybrid of the two above) C. arizonica var. glabra (Smooth Arizona cypress) Callitropsis nootkatensis (Nootka Cypress) Cypress (especially Leyland cypress) are particularly common as hedging plants. But it is important to realise that while cypress can be very useful and hardy trees in certain settings, they grow very quickly, and very tall, and so are often not at all the best choice for smaller gardens.3 That said, smaller shaped, topiary and bonsai cypresses can be grown in pots or containers even in the smallest garden. Chamaecyparis are also common evergreen trees or hedging plants in UK gardens. These are known as ‘false cypresses’. Common options for our climate include: Chamaecyparis lawsoniana (Lawson cypress) C. obtusa (Japanese cypress) C. pisifera (Sawara cypress) C. thyoides (Atlantic white cypress) Many different cultivars of these coniferous trees are prized for their variety and are commonly used in horticulture. 3) Douglas Fir The Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) is another common coniferous tree. In spite of its common name it is not actually a fir at all – it is a conifer species in the Pinaceae or pine family. Of course it is a common tree used for Christmas trees and in forestry plantations, but it also has ornamental appeal in large gardens and parks. 4) Fir Nordmann fir True firs (Abies) is a large genus of coniferous trees which offer many options. Common firs grown here include: A. alba (European silver fir) A. balsamea (Hudson fir) A. concolor (White fir) A. fraseri (Fraser fir) A. koreana (Korean fir) A. nordmanniana (Caucasian fir) A. pinsapo (Spanish fir) A. procera (Noble fir) This is another varied collection of coniferous trees which can make impressive full-sized trees, or be cultivated in pots, shaped, and kept much smaller. 5) Hemlock Tsuga canadensis in a pot Hemlock (Tsuga) is another genus of coniferous trees that can offer options for a garden in the UK. Some common choices include: T. canadensis (Eastern Hemlock) T. heterophylla (Western Hemlock) T. mertensiana (Mountain hemlock) Numerous cultivars are great in gardens – they can be slow-growing and attractive conifers for pots, beds or borders. 6) Juniper Common juniper in a container Junipers (Juniperus) are a wide range of coniferous trees and shrubs widely distributed across the Northern hemisphere. UK gardens can choose from many, including: J. communis (Common juniper – a UK native) J. chinensis (Chinese juniper) J. scopulorum (Rocky mountain juniper) J. procumbens (Decumbent juniper – mat forming) J. squamata (Flaky juniper – prostrate shrub) The diverse growing habits of junipers make them extremely useful in many different settings and positions in a garden. 7) Larch Larches (Larix) are a little different to most other conifers because they are not evergreen, but deciduous. They lose their needles in the winter. Some larches to consider for gardens include: L. decidua (European larch) L. gmelinii (Dahurian larch) L. kaempferi (Japanese larch) Pseudolarix amabilis (Golden Larch) Larches in many different sizes, shapes, colours and forms are available for British gardens. 8) Monkey Puzzle Tree Araucaria araucana This enormous evergreen tree is another common option for large gardens. It can grow truly monstrous in size, however, and so may not be a great choice where space is more limited. Though a common sight in gardens, this tree is actually endangered by logging, overgrazing and forest fires in its native South American range.4 It is known by the Latin name Araucaria araucana.5 One interesting thing to note about this tree, commonly grown as an ornamental, is that it also can produce edible seeds (similar to very large pine nuts) which could mean that it has potential as a future food crop – in parts of the UK, for example, where other nut crops do not grow well. Bear in mind though, that you will have to plant a male and a female; these trees do not yield seeds until they are 30 or 40 years old.6 “This is one of my favourite trees to look at and one of my least favourite to work with,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “One issue I have encountered is that raising a nursery tree into a straight single-leader tree can be challenging, so I advise buying as big a tree as your budget allows and let the grower do the hard work. “Other issues are they get big, they can drop limbs if the roots are disturbed or compacted and the leaves are stiff and spiky.” 9) Pine Pinus mugo Pines are another very important category of coniferous tree. Pines of note include: Pinus sylvestris (Scot’s pine – native to parts of Scotland) P. armandi (Chinese white pine) P. cembra (Arolla pine) P. coulteri (Coulter’s pine) P. densiflora (Japanese red pine) P. halepensis (the Aleppo pine) P. heldreichii (Bosnian pine) P. jeffreyi (Jeffrey’s pine) P. montezumae (Montezuma pine) P. mugo (the Mountain pine) P. nigra (European black pine) P. parviflora (Japanese white pine) P. patula (Mexican yellow pine) P. pinaster (Maritime pine) P. peuce (Macedonian pine) P. pumila (Siberian pine) P. radiata (Monterrey pine) P. strobus (Eastern white pine) P. thunbergii (Japanese black pine) P. wallachiana (Bhutan pine) … and more. Pines offer a lot of varied options if you are looking for coniferous trees for your garden. 10) Spruce Picea pungens There are also a lot of spruce (Picea) trees to consider when choosing coniferous trees. Some of the common options to consider include: P. abies (Norway spruce) P. asperata (Dragon spruce) P. breweriana (Brewer’s spruce) P. glauca (White spruce) P. mariana (Black spruce) P. omorika (Serbian spruce) P. orientalis (Caucasian spruce) P. pungens (Blue spruce) P. sitchensis (Sitka spruce) Though there are also many other options to consider if you are looking for more usual conifers to place in your garden. 11) Yew The European yew, Taxus baccata, is another coniferous tree to consider. This is a native evergreen tree, which like so many other conifers on this list, can also be an option for hedging. There are several named cultivars to choose from. These types of coniferous trees commonly grown in Britain should give you a good place to take inspiration when choosing conifers for your garden! References 1. What is a Conifer Tree? (2021, July 1). American Conifer Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://conifersociety.org/conifers/articles/what-is-a-conifer-tree/ 2. Care guide for the Cedar Bonsai tree (Cedrus). (n.d.). Bonsai Empire. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.bonsaiempire.com/tree-species/cedar 3. Leyland cypress trees often planted incorrectly. (2021, September 22). CAES Newswire. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://newswire.caes.uga.edu/story/4006/leland-cypress.html 4. Price, V. (2018, June 25). Six well-known trees surprisingly close to extinction. Global Trees. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://globaltrees.org/news-blog/six-well-known-trees-surprisingly-close-to-extinction/ 5. Mabbett, T. (2019, July 3). Tree of the month: A puzzle of a pine tree. Forestry Journal. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.forestryjournal.co.uk/features/17746316.tree-month-puzzle-pine-tree/ 6. Monkey Puzzle Tree. (2013, February 10). Geograph. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3326641
Learn more
8 Expert-Approved Topiary Trees & Bushes For Amazing Garden Shapes
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Topiary Topiary Types 1) Common Yew (Taxus baccata) 2) Thuja (Arborvitae) 3) Privet (Ligustrum) 4) ‘Japanese Hollies’ (Ilex crenata) 5) Honeysuckle (Lonicera) 6) Alberta Spruces (Picea glauca) 7) Wall Germander (Teucrium) 8) Box Wood (Buxus) References Be it a simple ball or cube, or an intricate tiger or motor car, a sculpted tree or hedge grabs your attention. The (very old) art form of topiary has enjoyed something of a resurgence during the past century, and, though crafting representational forms is an acquired skill, you can make simple shapes if you merely choose the right tree or bush. In this guide, we have collaborated with Darren Lerigo, a Topiary Artist based in the UK who is a member of the European Boxwood and Topiary Society and is the founder of Modern Mint. One may define Topiary as the art of sculpting with plants and trees, but just as the sculptor requires the right type of marble or other material, so too does the topiarist need a ’sculptable’ member of the Plant Kingdom. Most are not sculptable at all while a few are more sculptable than some others. The art and technique of this nature-sculpting involves patient, continual, and progressive training, pruning, and clipping of the subject shrub or tree. Though topiary is very much an ‘in thing’ in the British Isles and has been so for decades, it comes down to us from the classical world. Reputedly, the ancient Greeks enjoyed making simple forms and shapes with plant life.1 You too could start off by making simple spherical and conical forms and other geometric shapes before proceeding to more ambitious ‘tree sculptures.’ “For clients’ gardens, we always start with a structure, which is usually in the form of a topiary,” shares Garden Designer Kate Gould. We do know that topiary took off in Rome during the rule of Augustus Caesar.2 One Gaius Matius Calvinus, a horticulturist friend of Julius Caesar and his adopted son Octavian, later Augustus, played the major role in popularising this art form. Quite possibly this art arrived on Anglo-Saxon shores after the Roman conquests during the reign of Claudius Caesar.3 Topiary probably reached its high-water mark in Great Britain at the close of the Seventeenth Century. Historical Knot Garden in Sudeley Castle Grounds During the Tudor and Stuart Periods, hedge mazes and knot gardens, which are advanced forms of topiary, were all the rage in aristocratic gardens. Since the anti-topiary 1740s, this gardener’s art form has had its ups and downs in the British Isles as well as in other European countries.4 Today, its foremost practitioners are the Dutch, French, Italians, Americans, and – of course – the British. Some British nurseries even have a separate department for topiary plants, and a few specialise in hedging and topiary. Ready-to-go boxwood topiaries are – of course – also available. As for the budding topiarist, they can choose from a variety of topiary shears and pruners, and instructional books. Expert-Chosen Topiary “After Boxwood and Yew, which are the two classic plants used for topiary, I love some of the deciduous plants native to the UK,” says Darren. “Hawthorn is great for topiary because it is a fast-growing plant that can cope in our climate, that also gives you blossom in late spring, haws in autumn and, when mature, a twisty trunk full of character. “After a few years of clipping, the branches get knitted together and thorny. This looks brilliant against the sky in winter when the plant is denuded of leaves. “Birch is another plant I’m trying to use,” Darren shares. “Again, you get the bark on the trunk that stands out in winter and then the yellow leaf in Autumn, adding seasonal interest to your garden. “Birch also has this odd branch structure once the leaves have fallen off, which has the appearance of dark buckwheat honey dripping in its own time off a spoon. “I like that and, when made as a topiary, it catches the attention of those that visit the garden. “I am also experimenting with oak as a hedge and as a topiary to see what happens,” explains Darren. “Oak is slow-growing, but we know it supports such a lot of wildlife, so why not use it!” Topiary Types Which ’sculpting material’ should you choose, though? In general, the bush or tree should be evergreen, leaves should be on the small side or be scale-like or needle-like, the bush or tree should exhibit density of branching and density of foliage, and have a ‘tight’ or non-sprawling habit. Over and above that, you need to choose the ‘material’ from the Plant Kingdom that is right for your planned topiary subject. As an obvious example, some bushes lend themselves to shorter, flatter and longer shapes; others to tall and narrow forms. We assist you in selecting the precise tree or bush for the particular garden shape you have in mind. 1) Common Yew (Taxus baccata) Yews rank at Number One because they are tried and tested topiary media for centuries, are still going strong, and possess all the desirable qualities of topiary plants, to which they even add a few of their own. A Yew is very long-lived and so can be a multi-generational heritage, it grows from green wood but also regenerates from brown wood, and its dense foliage typically comprises of needle-like leaves with shades varying from yellow-gold to sparkling, brilliant green. Though a good few Taxus varieties, particularly T. baccata cultivars, make excellent topiary bushes, it is difficult to look beyond T. baccata or Common Yew because of its extraordinary qualities. Where Taxus and Yews are the subject, the varieties are only interesting ‘nice to haves’ for something a little different; for serious topiary it is almost all about Common Yew. Its somewhat springy branches can take tough training just as well as they can withstand pruning and clipping, as the bush is shaped into whatever whimsical shape. An Airborne View of an Old Yew Maze To explain it thus, if a goodly number Thuja varieties are as if made to order for specific shapes, then Common Yew is the lump of clay or the piece of Parian that can reliably be sculpted into anything at all (provided the topiarist is a master). Just as topiary tyros ought to start with Thuja, Topiary’s Rodins and Michelangelos tend to opt for T. baccata. Besides being long-lived, for a bush or a hedge, Common Yew is massive, as it can spread to eight 8m or more and rise to more than 12m with a height of ten being common. If you’d like to build a Stuart Period maze over the next several years, get yourself a few dozen Common Yews. Best for: T. baccata ‘Repens aurea’: Very small sizes, knot gardens Taxus x media ‘Densiformis’: Small sizes, ovoid forms, horizontally elongated shapes T. baccata ‘Standishii’: Small sizes, (mini) spires, spirals T. baccata ‘Semperaurea’: Medium sizes, hexahedrons, representational shapes Taxus x media ‘Hicksii’: Large sizes, mazes, representational shapes T. baccata ‘Fastigiata’: Large sizes, columns, obelisks, spirals T. baccata: Ultra-large sizes, high mazes, representational shapes, anything at all “I have also used Taxus x media ‘Hillii’ to establish low-growing parterre topiary due to its compact and dense qualities,” shares Horticultural Consultant Roy Nicol. 2) Thuja (Arborvitae) Thuja (or Arborvita, incorrectly called ‘Cedar’) varieties fully deserve their lofty ranking because they are ready-made topiaries direct from Mother Nature’s nursery. Decide on the shape(s) you want, choose the appropriate Thuja cultivar(s), and…grab a drink and lie back – it’ll work out by itself. Though – of course – it won’t quite pan out that way, there’s more than a grain of truth to the exaggeration. Particular Thuja grow so naturally into particular shapes that all you need to do is help them along without much planning or clipping – just ideal for the ‘One-Minute Gardener.’ Thuja varieties also possess all the other essentials that make a plant an excellent medium for topiary, from being evergreen to so cold-hardy that some are good for growing in Siberia! Many Thuja Varieties are Perfect for Spirals and Columns Because of the extraordinary abundance of Thuja varieties that are great for topiary, we list each one’s name along with only one shape. Obviously, a variety that is perfect for one shape will also be very good for closely-related forms so we mention one alternate in parens for each variety. It must be mentioned that it would not be reasonable if one were to try to work a Thuja variety into a shape that is in strong conflict with its natural form and habit as this would be working against Nature. Finally, bear in mind that it’s not only about shapes – if one Thuja variety has stunning lime-green foliage, another has equally stunning golden foliage, and yet others will turn flaming orange or bronze-purple in autumn. All the following are T. occidentalis or T. plicata varieties. Each are best for: ‘Danica’: Very small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Amber Glow’: Very small sizes, ovoids (and spheres) ‘Tater Tot’: Very small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’: Small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Stoneham Gold’: Medium sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Smaragd’: Medium sizes, spires (and spirals) ‘Rheingold’: Medium sizes, ovoids (and boxes) ‘North Pole’: Medium sizes, spires (and columns) ‘Fluffy’: Medium sizes, cones (and pyramids) ‘Janed Gold’: Large sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Polar Gold’: Large sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Degroot’s Spire’: Very large sizes, spires (and spirals) T. occidentalis: Very large sizes, spires (and columns) ‘Irish Gold’: Very large sizes, cones (and pyramids) T. plicata: Ultra-large sizes, narrow pyramids (and columns) ‘Aurea’: Ultra-large sizes, cones (and cylinders) ‘Green Giant’: Ultra-large sizes, cones (and pyramids) 3) Privet (Ligustrum) Privet is virtually synonymous with hedging in view of the ubiquity of privet hedges and because – rightly or wrongly – it is the default choice for hedging and, consequently, simple topiary shapes. Privets are varieties of the Ligustrum genus. Where topiary is concerned one may divide Privets into three broad categories: L. ovalifolium and its cultivars, L. japonicum and its cultivars, and the rest and remainder. The main difference is that L. japonicum and its cultivars have stiff, ‘springy’ branches compared to L. ovalifolium and its cultivars, and the former’s leaves are rounded, waxy and wavy compared to the more ‘normal’ leaves of L. ovalifolium and cultivars. L. ovalifolium varieties have a moderate growth rate while L. japonicum varieties grow more slowly. A Privet Lion at Rhode Island’s Topiary Gardens Both species and their respective cultivars are as tough as nails, and tolerate both, adverse soil conditions and heavy pruning and trimming. Most of them are just hardy enough for almost the entire UK at hardiness H5. Ligustrum varieties offer just about the widest choice in foliage type and foliage colouration among topiary plants. They are most suitable for hedging, hexahedrons, cubes, and also curved shapes. Finally, one of the best privets for intricate topiary comes from the ‘rest and remainder’ of Ligustrum species. This is slow-growing L. delavayanum which is a top choice for representational topiary. Best for: L. japonicum ‘Rotundifolium’: Small sizes, upright ovoids, elongated shapes L. ovalifolium: Medium sizes, hexahedral shapes, cubes, curved shapes L. japonicum: Medium sizes, hexahedral shapes, cubes, curved shapes L. delavayanum: representational topiary For out of the ordinary ‘coloured’ topiary, consider these colourful varieties: L. ovalifolium ‘Aureum’ L. ovalifolium ‘Argenteum’ L. japonicum ‘Variegatum’ L. ibota ‘Musli’ L. undulatum ‘Lemon and Lime Clippers’ 4) ‘Japanese Hollies’ (Ilex crenata) Ilex crenata cultivars vary quite widely in height and spread, and even in habit and form, but before we get to those, let’s look at what they have in common. To begin with, they possess all the desirable qualities of a topiary medium and are super-hardy, being good down to H6. A few I. crenata cultivars are becoming the go-to alternatives to Box Wood, especially for shaped hedging. Japanese Hollies are sometimes attacked by aphids and scale but, unlike the ravages being wreaked on Box Wood, such as blight and box tree moth caterpillar, these plants’ infestations are episodic. Japanese Holly Topiary, Japanese Style! I. crenata typically reaches about 4m with a spread of about 1m while cultivar ‘Convexa’ grows to about 2m with a spread of about one. In between, rising to about three metres is cultivar ‘Fastigiata’ with its name indicating its fastigiate habit. All three have tiny, glossy leaves, which is another tick mark for a topiary plant. All three varieties can bear small white flowers in the summer and black berries in autumn but the topiarist will not be interested in blooms and berries interfering with his geometric shapes. Best for: I. crenata: Large sizes, mazes, tall hedging, geometrical shapes ‘Fastigiata’: Medium sizes, columns, cylinders, obelisks ‘Convexa’: Small sizes, low hedging, boxes, curved shapes “Ilex crenata is a difficult plant to grow well as it demands exacting growing conditions,” says Roy. “For this reason, I recommend it is used by experienced gardeners who can provide these conditions.” 5) Honeysuckle (Lonicera) Lonicera ligustrina var. pileata or Box-Leaved Honeysuckle and Lonicera ligustrina var. yunnanensis or Wilson’s Honeysuckle are ideally suited to topiary. And so much so that perhaps these excellent sculpting plants should rank higher but they are simply not as tried and tested as those ranked above them. All the attributes necessary for a first-class topiary plant are found in spades in these two Lonicera varieties, and they are also fully hardy – Zone H6. They are also tough plants that are tolerant of severe clipping. All this means that you can get ambitious with Lonicera Honeysuckle. Box-Leaved Honeysuckle will Bear Flowers and Berries if you’re not Careful! L. ligustrina var. yunnanensis typically reaches dimensions of 3.5m by 3m while L. ligustrina var. pileata is more compact and more ‘horizontal’ at about 0.75m by 2m. Topiarists may or may not want the added colour of the small summer flowers and autumn berries but the bright green foliage is something they will go for. If one side or end of a topiary Lonicera is not severely trimmed, it will produce flowers. Best for: Medium sizes, intricate shapes, representational forms. 6) Alberta Spruces (Picea glauca) Alberta Spruces, varieties of Picea glauca, are probably the up-and-comers in the Topiary Sweepstakes. As Northern Spruces they are super-hardy. The two cultivars that we recommend are P. glauca var. albertiana ‘Conica’ and P. glauca var. albertiana ‘Alberta Globe’. Both have stiff, needle-like foliage that grows very densely and rather slowly, and they bring that bonus typical of many spruces: invigoratingly fresh-scented foliage. What these two cultivars markedly differ in are their respective sizes and natural shapes. Alberta Spruces are Perfect for these Kinds of Topiaries ‘Conica’ typically attains a height of 2-plus metres and a spread of about one, and makes a natural – surprise! – conical form. ‘Alberta Globe’ grows to a little under 1m in diameter – and we hardly need to spell out its natural shape. If you’re going for cones and spheres, you will not need to exert yourself much with these choices. Look for other Picea varieties that make good topiary media. You can be one of the early adopters of P. glauca ‘Echiniformis’, P. glauca ‘Arneson’s Blue Variegated’, and P. pungens (Glauca Group) ‘Koster’. Best for: ‘Conica’: Medium sizes, cones, pyramids, spirals ‘Alberta Globe’: Small sizes, balls, ovoids, curved shapes 7) Wall Germander (Teucrium) Fully hardy Wall Germander, Teucrium chamaedrys, should not be confused with tender Bush Germander which is a top choice for good-sized topiary ‘statutory’ projects. Unfortunately, it is hardy only to Zone H3 whereas Wall Germander is hardy to H6. This doesn’t mean that the latter should be perceived as a ‘lesser Germander’ for it has its own forte, as does close relative Teucrium × lucidrys or Hybrid Germander which is hardy to Zone H4. A parterre de broderie in a French garden They have a particularly dense bushy habit and this attribute combined with the small leaves and their rich deep hue make them great topiary plants. Both plants emit a pleasant crisp aroma, especially when brushed against, adding to their happy attributes. They grow to only about 30cm and have a similar spread, making them ideal for low designs, including knot gardens, which feature low-slung but long, interwoven, abstract patterns. Best for: Small sizes, low intricate designs, serpentine shapes, knot gardens 8) Box Wood (Buxus) Trusty old Box Wood, this usually being Buxus sempervirens, Buxus microphylla, or one or another of their various cultivars, closes our list just outside the Super Seven. Box Wood would have ranked, and high at that, but over the past several years box blight and box tree caterpillar have been on a cross-country rampage, laying waste to Box in ever-increasing regions in the UK. Therefore, even though Box Wood is one of the most tried and true topiary media, it is probably not a very good choice to begin a new topiary project because, like as not, you’ll be waging a virtually unwinnable, never-ending battle with box blight, box tree caterpillar, or both. Is the Sun Setting for Good on Box Wood? In addition, Box varieties are increasingly being affected by other pests and diseases such as Fluted Scale and Volutella blight. Caveats done, as the long-term traditional automatic pick for hedging and medium-sized topiary as well as being a great option for beginners, Box deserves to be listed with an honourable mention. Best for: Medium sizes, balls, cubes and representational shapes. References 1. The History of Topiary. (n.d.). Grimsthorpe Castle, Park and Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.grimsthorpe.co.uk/the-history-of-topiary/ 2. History: It All Began with the Romans. . . (n.d.). Center for Architecture. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.centerforarchitecture.org/digital-exhibitions/article/topiary-tango/history-it-all-began-with-the-romans/ 3. The history of topiary. (n.d.). Agrumi: Bespoke Topiary Plant Sculptures. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://topiaryart.co.uk/the-history-of-topiary/ 4. Moss, S. (2018, December). Cultivating curiosities: plants as collections in the 18th century. University of York. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/24026/1/Cultivating%20Curiosities%20-%20Suzanne%20Moss%20PhD%20thesis%20FINAL%20v2.pdf
Learn more
Get Tropical With These 10 Hardy Palm Trees Chosen By Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Brahea armata 2) Butia capitata 3) Chamaerops humilis 4) Jubaea chilensis 5) Phoenix canariensis 6) Rhapidophyllum hystrix 7) Trachycarpus fortunei 8) Trachycarpus wagnerianus 9) Trithrinax campestris 10) Washingtonia filifera Managing Winter Damage Getting a tropical feel in a UK garden is easier than you might think – choosing some hardy palm trees you can grow in the UK is a good place to start. Palm trees may hail from much warmer climes, but there are a surprising number that can grow rather well in many UK gardens. Some of the best hardy palm options for those looking for a tropical garden feel are listed below: 1) Brahea armata COMMON NAME: MEXICAN BLUE PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 10+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H1C HARDY TO: -8°C The Mexican Blue palm, Brahea armata, is, as the name suggests, native to Mexico. It is an attractive though slow-growing palm with fan-shaped canopies of blueish-green leaves and tassel-like flowers. It will grow well in well-drained alkaline soil in full sun, and is hardy enough to survive outdoors in a temperate climate. However, young plants will need some protection over winter, and gardeners in chillier or wetter areas may wish to consider growing this palm in a container so it can be moved to a conservatory over the winter months. The Mexican blue palm can be planted any time between May and September, and will flower over the summer months with its long panicles of vibrant yellow flowers, which are followed by yellowish-brown fruits. This palm is hardy in the right spot (and with the right care) down to around -8°C. 2) Butia capitata COMMON NAME: JELLY PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 3-4 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H1C HARDY TO: -10°C The jelly palm is one of the hardiest feather palms available for UK gardeners. These can be grown outside in a sunny spot in sheltered spaces, and are even suitable for growing on heavier clay soils which are not suitable for most other hardy palms. It can tolerate light frosts and sometimes even survive temperatures down to around -10°C. Native to Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay, this attractive palm has graceful leaves which form a dense, full crown and create a gently weeping effect. If you are trying to create an edible tropical style planting scheme then this is the best palm to opt for. The orangey-yellow fruits which appear after the flower spikes are edible. They are around the size of dates and have a sweet, pineapple-like or apricot-like flavour. 3) Chamaerops humilis COMMON NAME: DWARF FAN PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 2.5 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H4 HARDY TO: -12°C The dwarf fan palm can grow over six feet tall, forming dramatic clumps of fanned leaves. One particular type to consider is the var. argentea variant, which grows in the Altas mountains of Morocco. It has blueish-silver leaves. ‘Vulcano’ is another good cultivar of this hardy palm to consider. This is one other option to consider where there is a heavy clay soil, or where you are growing in partial shade. This is also a good option for somewhat less sheltered locations, since it is rather wind resistant. It can tolerate temperatures, when mature and in good health, of down to as low as -12°C. Small yellowy flowers are sometimes born on mature plants. 4) Jubaea chilensis COMMON NAME: CHILEAN WINE PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 12+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H2 HARDY TO: -14°C The Chilean wine palm is very slow-growing, but can eventually grow to around 5m in height in mild areas. It is hardy, in a sunny, sheltered and protected site, with free-draining soil, to about -14°C. But, it is intolerant of cold or windy locations. This palm has a cracked greyish trunk that can resemble an elephant’s trunk, and large leaves made up of a number of small narrow leaflets in greenish-yellow to darker green shades. Even in cooler areas where this palm can not be grown outdoors year-round, it can still be placed in a container to move into a conservatory or indoors over the winter months. Purple and yellow flowers in summer are then followed by dull yellow, woody fruits. Where the fruit forms, it can be candied, and the seeds have a pleasant nutty flavour when raw, though are typically only produced after as many as 60 years. 5) Phoenix canariensis COMMON NAME: CANARY ISLAND DATE PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 10+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H2 HARDY TO: -8°C If you would like to see results more quickly then this is a faster-growing feather palm that could potentially grow well in the south in a sunnier and well-drained spot. These can form stout trunks and spread out their leaves which can grow up to 5m in length. It can cope with partial shade as long as it is growing in a well-drained, acidic or neutral loam. In most UK gardens, it will need some form of protection, or must be moved indoors during the winter months. Though in the right spot it can be hardy down to around -8°C, it can also be grown in a conservatory or in a bright room indoors all year round. 6) Rhapidophyllum hystrix COMMON NAME: NEEDLE PALM / BLUE PALMETTO PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 2-3 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H5 HARDY TO: -15°C This palm is interesting for southern city gardens in a sheltered south or west facing position, where the heat island effect causes hot summer temperatures. It does need summer sun to mature successfully, but interestingly, can also cope with winter lows of down to -15°C. It grows very slowly, but can eventually form clumps of attractive leaves to 1m in height. Even when the plant is killed to the ground in a particularly cold winter, it can still sometimes come back even from a hard freeze due to its suckering growth habit. 7) Trachycarpus fortunei COMMON NAME: CHUSAN PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 12+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H5 HARDY TO: -15°C “The bold, and tropical looking Trachycarpus fortunei is one of my favourite plants,” shares Garden Designer Jacquie Felix-Mitchell. “It’s so hardy and can withstand the heat, cold, wind and rain, which is just as well with our changing climate!” Even in areas where other hardy palms will not thrive, the Chusan palm can be a good option to consider. It can be grown outdoors year-round across much of the UK, though its foliage may be damaged by strong winds in more cold and northerly, particularly exposed sites. This palm can survive a lot, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “Trachycarpus fortunei is probably the best all-round palm for UK conditions, closely followed Chamaerops humilis. “Both can cope with harder conditions in average UK winters but can also cope with wetter and windier conditions. “If you want to grow palms but you’re worried about whether they’ll survive, these are your safest bet.” It can be hardy down to -15°C, and can tolerate heavier soils, and even some shade. But it will still do best in a sheltered post, facing south of west ideally. This palm also grows a little more quickly than many of the other trees in this list. 8) Trachycarpus wagnerianus COMMON NAME: DWARF CHUSAN PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 6-8 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H5 HARDY TO: -15°C In areas where the leaves of the Chusan palm may be damaged by strong wind exposure, this dwarf varietal may be a better option. This is a closely related palm that looks alike and performs similarly. But it has stiffer and thicker leaves which makes it a better choice for somewhat more exposed locations. 9) Trithrinax campestris COMMON NAME: CARANDAY PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 4-5 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H3 HARDY TO: -12°C The Caranday palm is another option which may work well in a somewhat windier spot. It has blue-green leaves in fan shapes which can also be rather wind tolerant. It is a palm that is rather easy to grow, though it should be noted that like some others on this list, it grows only slowly. In the right setting, with sun and warmth, it can be hardy down to around -12°C in winter. It can grow to an eventual height of around 5m. 10) Washingtonia filifera COMMON NAME: WASHINGTON PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 12+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H1C HARDY TO: -5°C This is the tallest and fastest growing palm on this list. It should be noted however that its height and fast speed of growth means that it may not be the best choice for a smaller garden. If you have a large garden, which is sheltered, out of strong winds, warm and largely frost-free, then this could be another choice to consider. It is believed to tolerate some sub-freezing conditions, but is not generally hardy below around -5°C. So this is probably only an option for certain more southern gardens. But where it will grow, it can be a dramatic and impressive choice, immediately whisking off you and any garden visitors to the sunny shores of California, and the Southwest of the USA. Managing Winter Damage Hardy palms are not always the easiest plants to grow successfully in UK gardens. The most common problem, of course, is winter damage. Fleeces are also commonly used in the UK to protect palm trees over winter. However, if winter damage occurs, the damaged growth should be removed in the spring, and the plants should be tended carefully and fertilised to maintain good health and air recovery. But since palms have only one growing point at the top, palms will not be able to regrow from lower down. So if the palm does not recover before late summer, unfortunately, it has probably seen its best days and you will need to replace it.
Learn more
How To Create An Espalier Fruit Tree Screen, With Advice From A Forest Gardener
IN THIS GUIDE What Is An Espalier Fruit Tree Screen? Positioning A Fruit Tree Screen Choosing Your Fruit Trees Preparing & Planting Espalier Fruit Trees 1) Choose A Structure 2) Install Your Framework 3) Prepare A Planting Bed 4) Plant Your Fruit Tree(s) 5) Tie Side Branches Pruning Espaliered Fruit Trees References An espalier fruit tree screen can be a great way to grow fruit in your small-space garden. It can also help you improve privacy, create a windbreak, or screen an ugly wall or fence or an unsightly view. Espalier trees may take a little more maintenance than standard trees, but will take up less space, and often cast less shade, than fruit trees in other forms. Their simple, flat form can also make it easier for you to harvest the fruit from your trees. Read on to discover all about these screens and how to make one yourself. What Is An Espalier Fruit Tree Screen? The term ‘espalier’ is a French word, which means ‘something shoulder support’.1Definition of espalier. (n.d.). In www.dictionary.com. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.dictionary.com/browse/espalier Originally, the word was used to refer to the framework against which trees or plants were trained, but it has now come to refer to both the structure and the plants themselves. Any fruit tree that is trained to grow flat against a wall, fence or other support structure can be referred to as an espalier fruit tree. A pleached fruit tree is a related concept – this is also all about growing fruit trees on a flat plane. But with pleached trees, the horizontal branches start higher up the trunk – forming a kind of raised screen that can work very well to improve privacy when positioned in front of a lower wall or fence. Horizontal branches eventually grow together to create a single form, which can be great as a summer privacy screen. Positioning A Fruit Tree Screen An espalier fruit tree, or multiple trees, can be placed up against a wall or fence. The orientation of the wall or fence is important because it will determine which fruit trees can successfully be grown. South or west-facing structures are sunnier and will allow a wider range of fruit trees to be grown in this way – but there are also fruit trees that are suitable for growing against shadier east-facing or even north-facing walls. Another interesting thing to consider is that espalier fruit trees don’t just have to be restricted to the outer edges of your garden. By erecting a trellis as support, or a series of sturdy posts to hold the supporting wires, you can potentially create an espalier fruit tree screen to separate one part of your garden from another – to hide recycling bins, or provide privacy for a patio or seating area, for example, or to create a series of garden rooms. You might think that placing an espaliered fruit tree screen across your garden would make it feel smaller. But sometimes, partitioning your garden can have the opposite effect and actually make it feel bigger when placed in the right position. Just be sure to think about the shade that it will cast, and make sure it will not have a detrimental effect on other plants you are growing or wish to grow. Choosing Your Fruit Trees Most fruit trees commonly grown in the UK can be espaliered to grow flat against a wall, trellis or fence. However, if you are trying to create an espalier fruit tree screen, it is important to choose the right fruit tree or trees for the location. Trees that will do best on a sunny, south-facing wall include: Apricots Nectarines Peaches On any south, west or east-facing wall, you will usually be able to grow: Most Apples Damsons Most Pears Most Plums Sweet cherries And on a shadier, north-facing structure you can grow: Cooking apples or crab apples (‘James Grieve’ is one dessert and cooking apple that can cope very well with shade) Sour cherries (‘Morello’, ‘Nabella’) Some plums (‘Czar’, etc.) A few cooking pears (‘Catillac’, etc.) Typically, to create an integrated screen of trees, the trees you choose should be positioned around 3m apart. Preparing & Planting Espalier Fruit Trees There are two options if you would like to create an espalier fruit tree screen. The first option is to purchase maiden whips and train these yourself into a flat form. By far the easier option, however – and the most common – is to purchase young trees which have already been trained into this form. Ready trained trees already have branches which have been trained horizontally on their side of the main trunk. You can buy these as bare-root specimens over the winter months, or buy pot-grown fruit trees from garden centres throughout the year. Usually, pre-trained espalier fruit trees have two layers of horizontal branches, and will quickly grow to create three or four. To prepare your espalier fruit tree screen: 1) Choose A Structure Choose your existing wall or fence, or erect a new trellis support. 2) Install Your Framework Install a framework of around 4 horizontal wires, which match the distance between the horizontal branches on the tree you have chosen. Secure these horizontal wires firmly to the structure, using eye bolts or similar. 3) Prepare A Planting Bed Prepare a bed (or place large containers) at the base of the structure, a little out from the base to avoid any rain shadow. Dig holes for your fruit trees, around 15cm out from the structure (if growing in the ground). Or place your containers in the same position. 4) Plant Your Fruit Tree(s) Plant your fruit trees, making sure that they sit at the same level in the soil or growing medium as that at which they were originally planted. Water well, and firm the soil or growing medium well around the trees. Mulch well with compost/well-rotted manure or another organic material. 5) Tie Side Branches Use twine to tie side branches at several places onto the horizontal wires you have placed. If possible use natural twine rather than plastic for environmental reasons – hemp/flax twine is one good option to consider for an eco-friendly garden. “There are now many natural twines to choose from and there are thicker twines now available that are perfect for tying in larger branches,” adds Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “These will last 2-3 years and can be checked during pruning to see if they need replacing. “Alternatively, leather strips also make a long-lasting alternative.” Pruning Espaliered Fruit Trees The main job when creating and maintaining an espalier fruit tree screen is pruning. After planting your espalier fruit tree, leave the main stem to grow through its first spring/summer. The following winter, prune the central shoot down to the next support wire. Leave three healthy buds to form your central leader, and two side branches, which can then be tied into this next support wire. Repeat this process the following year, so branches can be tied into the upper support wire. Between July and September, maintenance pruning involves pruning the shoots growing from horizontal branches. Leave just 3-4 leaves on each. Shoots growing from the main stem should also be shortened to around 3 leaves. Over time, continue to tie down new growth at the end of horizontal branches to the wires on your support, to stop them from growing vertically. Continue to prune, water and provide nutrients for your espalier fruit trees over time and you should be able to keep them in check, healthy and productive. They should provide a screen while the leaves are on the trees, and an attractive – though bare – architectural form in winter. And they should provide plenty of fruit for you and your family, even in the smallest of spaces. If you want to make the most of all the space that is available to you, then choosing trained trees can certainly be an interesting option to consider for your garden. And remember, the trees won’t just provide an edible yield – they can also deliver a range of other benefits and can improve the amenity in your garden.
Learn more
Don't Throw Out Your Old Christmas Tree Just Yet - You May Be Able To Replant It
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Replant A Christmas Tree After Using It? What Type Of Tree Do I Have? What Is A Containerised Christmas Tree? How To Keep A Containerised Tree Growing How To Dispose Of A Christmas Tree Don’t Let The Bells End References Each year, millions of Christmas trees get sent either to landfill, recycling plants or, heaven forbid, wood chipping machines. What sort of fate is this for their final sacrifice of making your family’s Christmas that little bit more special? Did you know that around 6 million trees are discarded each year?!1 Lots of people wonder whether their tree can be replanted, however. We’ve written this article to address that very question! Can You Replant A Christmas Tree After Using It? The short answer? Yes. The long answer comes with a few caveats, which we’ll run you through now. What Type Of Tree Do I Have? To determine whether it’s possible to plant and grow your Christmas tree, you need to know what type it is. There are two types – Cut Christmas Trees – these are trees that have been grown in the ground, then cut down at the trunk. Sometimes you buy them like this, other times you can cut them down yourself, a nice little festive activity for the family. Containerised Christmas Trees – these trees have been carefully transplanted to a container along with a root system that keeps them alive. As you might expect, cut Christmas trees can’t keep growing. You can take a cutting and use that to start a new tree, but that’s beyond the scope of this article. If you were asking yourself whether a cut tree would grow roots, that’s a no. The telltale marks of a cut Christmas tree, destined to die Put them in water and they’ll just slowly rot, and planting them outdoors will achieve nothing. So, the answer to the question “can you put a cut Christmas tree in soil” is a resounding no, unfortunately. This means that if you want to keep growing your Christmas tree once the festive season is over, you’ll need to go for a containerised tree. What Is A Containerised Christmas Tree? This is a type of Christmas tree that’s been specially conditioned to grow in a container. The idea is that you bring the living tree inside your home near Christmas, then return it outdoors after Christmas to keep growing. “I would tend not to grow trees in pots, as it is a struggle,” shares Tree Expert Ben Raskin. “The exception to this would be Christmas trees, so you can reuse them and bring them in every year. “We are on our 4th year of using the same potted Christmas tree now, which I’m really proud of.” How To Keep A Containerised Tree Growing Being indoors is actually a bit of a shock to the system for a Christmas tree. Think about it: these evergreen trees are used to surviving outdoors in the thick of winter, sometimes spending days at a time under a blanket of snow. So, sitting beside your roaring fireplace (or, more likely, radiator) involves temperatures way above what they’re used to. Too long in this environment can dry them out and, left too long, cause enough damage that they’ll be unable to grow properly (or at all) thereafter. How to balance the need to flaunt your fabulous, tinsel-clad centrepiece with the tree’s survival needs, then? Simple, just follow these tips – Try to keep the heat down in the room the tree lives in. Bring the tree into your house as close to Christmas as possible. Pack down the tree as soon after Christmas as you can bear. They’ll struggle beyond 10-14 days. You’ll be able to tell when a Christmas tree isn’t happy: its needles will start to turn brown, and its overall appearance will start to seem generally more unhealthy. If it’s not too big you can move your tree back outdoors for a little while to recuperate before bringing it in for another festive display. Let the tree guide you. Choose the right tree and you could enjoy it for years to come Keeping your containerised tree growing after Christmas is a great way to enjoy it year after year, and you get the combined benefit of having an attractive new addition to your garden in the interim. Here’s how to keep your containerised tree alive – Don’t bring it indoors too far ahead of Christmas. Move it outdoors as soon after Christmas as possible. Repot into progressively bigger pots as and when the tree’s roots require it. Use John Innes 2 or a similar compost to meet the tree’s nutritional needs. The eventual size of your tree will depend on how and where it’s grown. In a container, the size will be capped by how much the roots can grow. Expect maximum heights of a couple of metres. Grown in the ground, however, you can expect much greater heights, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “If you are going to plant your Christmas tree in your garden, make sure you make a note of the species when you buy it. “Most are Picea abies (Norway Spruce) but Abies nordmanniana (Nordman Fir) is also popular. “Do some research on the final size of the trees and plant them in a spot big enough to avoid having to cut them down at a future date!” After a couple of decades it’s not impossible for a tree to be 30m or more! (Obviously, it’ll be a lot harder to squeeze into your front room at this point). How To Dispose Of A Christmas Tree Many people are quite content to send their Christmas tree to landfill once the occasion has passed – definitely something we’d advise against. If you do decide to get rid of your tree once Christmas is over, there are a few ways to do it responsibly: Most local councils offer some kind of drop-off service where you can take your tree to a park or other public place, and it’ll be picked up at a scheduled time. You can find a composting site and put your tree through a chipper. The resulting green material is great for mulching or adding to compost heaps. Christmas trees make great firewood, so you can always give them a Viking send-off in a big bonfire. If you go for this option make sure it’s a) legal where you live and b) safe! Don’t Let The Bells End There’s nothing quite as festive as a Christmas tree festooned in tinsel, baubles, novelty decorations, candy canes, bows, and myriad other Christmas decorations. Even the hardest Scrooge-like heart will be softened by this display, especially if it’s beside a fire with a medley of presents gathered beneath. And what better way to pay tribute to the tree than to save it from a landfill afterlife, or a fatal appointment with a wood chipper. By replanting your Christmas tree you get to enjoy each other’s company for years – maybe decades – to come. References 1. How much waste does the festive season create? (n.d.). PHS Wastekit. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.phswastekit.co.uk/blog/posts/20-11-2018/how-much-waste-does-the-festive-season-create
Learn more
Registered Arborist Dan Ori On The Reasons To Prune An Apple Tree (And How To Do It)
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune an Apple Tree? Pruning For Health Pruning For Size Pruning For Shape Tip-Bearers & Semi-Tip Bearers When To Prune An Apple Tree Choosing The Right Tools Apple trees can be a great, relatively low maintenance option for many temperate climate gardens, but learning how to prune effectively will keep your tree healthy. Apple trees, especially once established, require little time and effort. If you place your apple tree in the right place, it will likely need little care from you – but there are a few annual jobs to take care of, and pruning is one of those jobs. Why Prune an Apple Tree? Garden apple trees are typically pruned for a number of reasons and if you are clear about your reasons for pruning, this can help you do so correctly and effectively. “Pruning is a big deal for people, as many don’t understand how trees grow and what to do with them,” says Tom Adams, the owner of Tom Adams Fruit Tree Nursery. “Think about why you actually want to prune the tree and go from there.” According to registered Arborist Dan Ori, the main reasons to prune an apple tree include: Improving the health of the tree Creating a desired form (including establishing a leading leader and notching) Reduction and thinning to maintain a tree form Removing potential failure points (including poor branch-unions) Dealing with a nuisance (blocking light, low branch etc) Stimulating new growth Checking growth (stop, remove, brutting, ringing, nicking) Removing unwanted growth including Suckers (from the base/belowground/below the rootstock), epicormic (from a clear trunk), and water shoots(from a dormant/latent bud) Stimulating the development of fruit buds Removing of buds to reduce leaf or more likely fruit growth Fruit thinning and removal Ensuring the tree carries fruit in a healthy harvestable way Increasing airflow through the tree Use as part of a regenerative practice (coppicing and pollarding) The first of these is definitely the most important, and will be a type of pruning required for all apple trees. Pruning For Health The primary goals when pruning an apple tree for health are two-fold. Firstly, you will prune to create a tree without dead, damaged or diseased material. By removing the ‘three D’s’ from the tree, you can keep it healthier, and ensure that the tree is able to put all its energy into flowering and fruiting successfully. Dan Ori explains each of these in more detail below: Dead – “There could be a strong biodiversity case to argue that leaving dead wood in trees can increase habitat for fungal, insect and animal colonisation; however, we will normally prune out dead wood to prevent spread of potential disease, and remove the dangers of the deadwood naturally shedding and falling on something or someone.” Diseased – “With trees we use the term ‘diseased’ in a broad way to cover viral, fungal, and bacterial infections. As mentioned with dead wood, we remove this diseased wood to prevent its spread.” Damaged – “We remove damaged wood for safety reasons and to prevent further damage to the tree, damaged wood can also be an opportunity for rots, disease, and harmful insect/animal colonisation.” Once any dead, damaged or diseased branches have been removed, you should next prune to create an open canopy and to prevent future damage or congestion problems. Prune to create a goblet-shaped structure on bush and standard tree forms. This allows light to penetrate the heart of the canopy more effectively. And can allow fruits to ripen well and increase yield later in the year. Remove branches that rub up against others causing damage when moving in the wind, or which are touching or almost touching. Judiciously thin the branches to create an open structure. A bird should be able to fly between all branches. Look at an apple tree from all angles and remove branches and twigs as required to open up the canopy. Shorten the growth of the previous year on each primary branch by about one-third, to a bud facing in the right direction. This encourages the development of healthy new branches and fruit-producing spurs. “Always keep sharp tools and make sure your cuts are clean to avoid any bacteria or diseases coming in,” says Julie Bellemann, a co-op member from Sheffield Fruit Trees. Pruning For Size You will need a pruning saw to remove larger branches on an overgrown mature tree If you have a mature and overgrown apple tree in your garden, you may wish to prune to reduce the size of a particular tree. You may wish to reduce the size of an apple tree because it has outstripped local resources and needs to be smaller for its own best health. You might also prune an apple tree because it is casting too much shade, or competing too vigorously with other plants nearby. Or you might prune because a particular apple tree is obscuring your view, or simply because it has grown too large to harvest easily. When pruning a mature apple tree to reduce size, it is important to be patient – some very overgrown mature apple trees will need to be pruned in stages over several years. Avoid taking off more than 1/3 of the canopy in one pruning session, even when a more drastic reduction in size is desired. Taking too much material off all at once can damage the trees, and put them under strain. It can also be counterproductive as heavily pruned apple trees can put on a lot of new vertical growth, which can spoil the look and shape of mature trees. “Prune to keep a nice open tree to allow maximum sunlight and air flow around the tree,” Tom suggests. Renovation pruning can breathe new life into an older tree as well as reducing its size. You may also wish to regulate size once a tree has reached an optimum size for the rootstock onto which it has been grafted. Regulated pruning maintains an ideal size without affecting the fruiting potential of the tree. In general, a rule of thumb with regulated pruning is to prune out no more than 10-20% of the canopy each year. Pruning laterals on overly vigorous trees can also help check their growth. Pruning For Shape On bush and standard trees, pruning for shape is usually a simple aesthetic consideration. Just take a step back and look at the overall shape of the tree as you prune for health or size. “Establish the shape of your tree as early as you can,” says Julie. “Prune off the main leader where you want the crown of your tree to start, and then shape it over the next few years. “Once the shape of the tree is established, look at how it grows. You might not need to prune your tree very much every year.” If you are training a young tree into a particular form, then pruning will be a little more complex. Intricacies of formative pruning will depend on the specific trees you have chosen to grow, and the shape you wish it to take. Apple trees can be trained into espaliers, fans, pyramids, columns/cordons or even into step-over hedges if a dwarfing rootstock has been used. Tip-Bearers & Semi-Tip Bearers “Apples will bear their fruit from fruit buds along the branches, from the tip of the branches, or a mix of both,” adds Dan Ori. “A common example of a tip-bearing/semi-tip-bearing cultivar is ‘Bramley’s Seedling’. “With tip bearers, you would not normally reduce the length of branches as this will result in little or no fruit the in the coming year, instead in winter, if you feel it is congested you would remove one in three/four branches of the current year’s growth to thin out the structure. When To Prune An Apple Tree “Winter pruning promotes growth,” says Tom. “Where you make a pruning cut is where strong growth will start during the growing season.” Bush and standard apple trees should be pruned for health, formative pruning (for young bush/standard trees) regulation pruning (to maintain size) and renovation pruning (or overgrown mature trees) should be carried out during the dormant period, between November and March. In areas with wetter winters, it can be a good idea to wait until late winter or very early spring, as Julie shares: “Avoid pruning on wet days or just before a bad frost. Other than that, fruit trees can technically be pruned all year round, but winter is the most common time.” However, apple trees are generally resilient, and, unlike other fruit trees like plums and cherries, will not typically experience any problems after being pruned any time during the winter months. Bush or standard forms which are overly vigorous may additionally be pruned in summer. In this type of summer pruning, more vigorous laterals longer than 30cm are reduced in length by around half all over the tree between mid-August and September. Shaped apple trees in restricted forms -espaliers, fans, pyramids, cordons etc. are typically pruned in summer to maintain their shape. This type of pruning is undertaken in mid to late August, once the bottom third of new shoots has become stiff and woody and the possibility of secondary growth is reduced. The goal is to cut back new shoots to maintain shape, and allow light to reach maturing fruit. Winter vs Summer Pruning Dan Ori argues that when to prune will depend on the species of fruit tree, but for apples and pears: “Winter pruning happens after leaf fall and before buds burst open with new leaves in the spring, this would probably take place in December, January, and February in the UK. “Winter pruning should be about health, form, and stimulating growth rather than fruit bud formation. “Summer pruning is normally undertaken in a short period around the end of July to mid-August in the UK. “Summer pruning should be about fruit bud formation and checking growth.” You could think of it over time as pruning at winter for healthy leaves and pruning during summer for plentiful fruits. Choosing The Right Tools Pruning methods and timings will depend to a large degree on the apple tree variety you are growing, and on your goals. Remember, methods will differ depending on the reasons for pruning, but no matter what type of pruning you are undertaking on your apple tree, certain things remain the same. One important thing is to make sure that you have the right tools for the job. All tools must be clean, and, crucially, must be sharp. Blunt pruning tools can do a lot of damage to your tree. Make sure you have sharp secateurs, loppers (and pruning saw where larger branches must be removed) for the job. Thinking about the pruning requirements for a particular apple tree can help you decide whether or not a particular tree will be the right choice for you and your garden. Typically, standard or bush forms will require the least work, and are the easiest to prune.
Learn more
Almond Trees Can Be Tricky To Grow - Here Are Some Important Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview A Note On Ornamental Types Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Almond Trees Harvesting Almond Trees Pruning Almond Trees Common Problems This may come as a surprise to some but the almond tree, originating in the Middle East, can be grown in quite a few regions of England. Though an almond tree is certainly more of a challenge to grow in English gardens than, say an apple tree or a cherry tree, think of those fragrant pink blossoms in spring and an easy harvest of garden-grown almonds! We may think of almonds as nuts along with hazels, walnuts, and pistachios. What a surprise, then, that the almond’s kith and kin are not any of those nuts, but, peaches, plums, and apricots! All of these fall within the genus Prunus and are called ’Stone Fruits’. Though a few species of wild almonds exist, Prunus dulcis is the only domesticated or cultivated almond species. Almost all almond trees commercially grown for the nut are Prunus dulcis cultivars. As for calling the almond a ‘nut’ – this is not strictly correct. It is the kernel or seed of a drupe – a type of fruit or pod. Overview Botanical Name Prunus dulcis Common Name(s) Almond Tree Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area Middle East Hardiness Rating H5/H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Spring blossom When To Sow February, March, November Flowering Months March, April Harvesting Months September, October When To Prune March, July P. dulcis, a deciduous tree, typically grows to 4 to 6m with the crown having a similar spread. The leaves are lanceolate and of a rich, deep green shade, turning yellow and orange in the autumn. Sizes vary quite a bit and can reach 12cm. In spring, clusters of small pale pink, sometimes white, bowl-shaped flowers emerge, attracting bees and birds as well as appreciative human eyes. The pleasant blossoms give way to the fuzzy taupe-green drupes that enclose almonds. In autumn the hulls will start to split, signalling that it is time to begin your almond harvest. An almond tree does not need to be grown solely for the almonds. Depending on the variety (and how you prune it) it will provide some summer shade, letting through dappled sunlight. And regardless of variety, this ornamental tree will provide pretty foliage with yellow and orange autumn colour, delightfully pretty blossoms in spring, and a rich fragrance to enliven the garden. You could almost consider the almonds a bonus. A Note On Ornamental Types And as it happens, there is such a thing as an almond tree without almonds! Dwarf flowering almond trees are small ornamental trees that produce a profusion of scented blooms. However, they do not produce almonds (or any edible fruit, drupe or seed). This article is primarily about ‘real’ almond trees. Whether you opt for a drupe-producing almond tree or an ornamental flowering variety, it must be said that these trees are prone to their fair share of pests and diseases. Habitat & Growing Conditions Where almond trees are concerned, there are a few requirements which are rather hard-and-fast. These trees are intolerant of waterlogged or poorly-drained soils; at the same time regular watering in spring and summer is necessary. They grow in light, loose soils, and are averse to clay soils. Hot, dry summers such as those of South Asia are ideal for almond trees. While almond trees are hardy, any spring frost is usually extremely damaging to the buds. P. dulcis is hardy to H5. Some cultivars are hardy to H6. How To Grow Almond Trees Almond trees are native to South Asia and the Mediterranean, and they grow best in the climates of those regions – which are not shared by the United Kingdom! The best regions to grow almond trees in the UK are Southern England but not anywhere close to the coast, and East Anglia. Spring frosts are the bane of almond trees whereas hottish, dry summers are a boon. Sourcing Saplings An almond sapling or young tree is not something that you can walk into your neighbourhood garden centre and buy. You will need to look for specialist stone fruit nurseries online. Be careful that you do not buy a dwarf flowering, non-fruit-bearing, almond tree (unless, of course, that is what you want). Pollination Except for a handful of self-fertile varieties, almond trees are not self-pollinating. Therefore, if you grow P. dulcis you will need two or more trees, preferably three or four, of different cultivars for a reliable crop of almonds. The trees should be spaced at 6-7m. However, quite a few self-fertile varieties have been developed in Europe and California over the past decade or two and these are the best options for the home gardener. The European ones include ‘Ingrid’, ‘Robijn’, ‘Sultane’, and ‘Princess’. The American ones include ‘All-in-One’, ‘Independence’, ‘Shasta’, and ‘Garden Prince’. The first three have been developed for America’s large-scale commercial growers. ‘Independence’ If you want to plant a single tree, ‘Robijn’ and ‘Ingrid’ are great choices for the UK. Almond trees are seldom grown from seed for the home garden; they are usually bought as saplings or very young trees, and transplanted. They bear almonds in two or three years from planting. Skilled green-fingers can propagate almond trees by budding and grafting, though. Soil Requirements The soil should be deeply laid, not overly-compacted, and it should be a sand-based loam with little or no clay. A little organic humus or manure mixed in would be beneficial. The soil should drain very well. Soil pH should be in the Slightly Acidic to Slightly Alkaline (6.1 to 7.8) range. Planting The planting hole should be sufficiently deep and a little wider than deep and the site should enjoy full sun. The April to May timeframe is most suitable for planting. Plant the sapling with care, handling the root system very gently if at all. Make sure that the roots are not matted or stuck and are spread out naturally. Plant the sapling to the same level that it had been planted in the container, or at the nursery or wherever you had obtained it from. It may prove helpful to mark the planting line in advance with marker or chalk. Fill in the hole such that the soil is compressed but not loose nor overly-compacted. Watering & Fertilising As you begin to fill the hole, slowly water the roots with about a pail of water as you continue filling the hole. After the hole is filled and the soil compressed, water it again with one more pail. Even very wet soil, let alone waterlogged soil, is unsuitable for almond trees as it encourages fungal and bacterial diseases via the soil. Frequent watering in spring and summer is a ‘must’ to ensure a profusion of blossoms and a bountiful crop. “I always have an eye to the future when planting trees,” says Colin Skelly, RHS Master Horticulturist. “Harvesting and storing rainwater is the sustainable option for growing almonds as the UK will become warmer (good for almond trees) but also drier (clearly bad for almonds and our water levels).” Freshly-planted, young trees need 6-7cm of water daily be it from your hosepipe or the skies. Mature trees need about the same amount of water every three days or so. Older, established trees need less water. The tree’s water needs taper off in autumn and winter. Every spring, fertilise the almond tree from trunk to drip-line – the edge of the canopy. One of the best types of fertiliser for almond trees is a slow-release 12-12-6. Harvesting Almond Trees The signal to begin harvesting is when the hulls start to split, exposing the shell. For almost all varieties, this will happen in the August to September timeframe. How soon you harvest your almonds after the hulls start splitting depends to a great extent on the threat from insects and birds. Ideally you should wait until about 75% of the drupes have split open but if you see or know that you will lose your crop (to insects and birds) you will have to harvest soon after you observe the drupes splitting open. An almond tree is one of the easiest stone fruit trees to harvest. Lay plastic or canvas sheets around the tree, vigorously shake the trunk, and voila: garden-fresh almonds! There will be some stubborn ones that refuse to be shaken off; to get these down on your sheet, simply use a pole to knock the branches or gently push the fruit off. It is imperative that fresh almonds properly be dried before storing else mould can form on them. The hulls must be removed (but not the shells). The unshelled almonds should be spread out on a clean, dry surface, and where sunlight can fall on them to accelerate the drying process. You may have to protect the almonds with mesh to prevent insects from getting at them. When the almonds are thoroughly dry they can be stored in breathable bags. However, one further step that is often taken is to put the almonds (in a bag) in the freezer for about ten days so that any worms and small insects are killed. Pruning Almond Trees Almond trees should be pruned from the very outset to maintain a desirable shape which, in turn, has an effect on the health of the tree and the production of almonds. Almond trees should be pruned in November and December. Be wary of pruning them earlier or later. Pruning fruit trees is a skilled horticultural task. What is provided here is a mere guideline. As a general rule, self-pollinating almond trees cultivated for home gardens need to be pruned to a lesser extent than the ‘usual’ varieties. Like most fruit trees, almond trees are usually pruned into an open-centre vase form or shape. This is a three-to-four year project – subsequent ‘maintenance pruning’ is, of course, desirable. The objective is to reduce dense and wayward growth, favour the strongest limbs, and to increase air circulation above and around the tree and also increase the penetration of sunlight. Air and sunlight are critical factors in preventing brown rot and other diseases. In the first year (after planting), the leader is cut and four to five limbs, more or less equidistant and with an upward taper, are retained while almost all others are removed. These will be the primary scaffold of the tree. Do not prune or shorten these scaffold limbs in the second or third year. In the second year prune about 25% of the new growth while choosing a few more limbs for the secondary scaffold. In following years continue to prune about 20% of the growth. This should be maintenance pruning that removes dead and diseased branches, and problem branches. Use pruning implements that are very sharp and sterilised – pruning wounds are a gateway for canker and other infections. Common Problems Now for the bad part. Almond trees are susceptible to their fair share of pests and diseases, which depend on the cultivar, the siting and climate, pruning, watering, and – of course – the presence of microbes. To begin with, diseases include crown gall, peach leaf curl, and bacterial canker. These diseases can be avoided by, respectively, employing correct and gentle planting technique, pruning to an open-centre vase form, and using sharp and sterilised pruning implements. Infrequently an almond tree may be afflicted by verticillium wilt, which is caused by a soil-borne fungus. Unfortunately, this disease cannot be treated. Another disease to be vigilant for is almond hull rot which may lead to a consequent infestation by navel orange worms. The pests that may attack almond trees include aphids, scale insects, and red spider mite. Thankfully, unlike verticillium wilt, these pests can readily be controlled.
Learn more
