Growing
How To Grow Erica Arborea ‘Tree Heather’ With Some Interesting Varieties Worth Trying
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Tree Heather? Tree Heather Varieties How To Grow Tree Heather Tree Heather Care Common Problems References There’s heather, then there’s tree heather. And although the names are similar, the two plants are very different in terms of appearance and habit. Whereas heather keeps a low profile and bursts forth in an exciting array of pinks and purples, tree heather cultivars riff on a theme that’s close to our stereotypical expectation of what an evergreen should look like: proud, green, and angular. Between the varieties available you can find some truly astounding specimens, at home in any garden. Tree heather, also called tree heath (a useful way to distinguish it from regular old heather) goes by the Latin name of Erica arborea. It’s an evergreen, and the family includes shrubs and small trees. Overview Botanical Name Erica arborea Common Name(s) Tree Heather Plant Type Shrub / Hedging Native Area Southern Europe, North Africa, Central & Eastern Africa Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small fragrant white flowers in long panicles When To Sow March, April, September, October Flowering Months February, March, April, May When To Prune May, June The plant originally hails from various parts of Africa and Southern Europe, but has now become naturalised in other parts of the world.1 It’s popular as an ornamental plant in British gardens thanks to the aesthetic variety on offer. Why Grow Tree Heather? Tree heather is a hardy and attractive plant with varieties coming in a wide range of shapes and sizes. If you’re looking for something to bring a little visual interest to your garden, and you’re attracted to the general evergreen aesthetic, then tree heather could be right up your street. Tree heather wood – also called briar – is also incredibly hard, and lends itself excellently to woodworking. Tree Heather Varieties Here are three varieties that showcase the best the plant has to offer. These cultivars have all been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit (AGM), indicating that they are well suited to growing in the UK. E. arborea ‘Albert’s Gold’ In our opinion, ‘Albert’s Gold’ aligns most closely with the image that comes to mind when someone mentions evergreen trees. It boasts triangular fronds of light green leaves, with spikes that carve a space for themselves in your field of vision. They’re like a scaled-down version of the enormous fir trees you’d expect to see in a rugged Canadian landscape. E. arborea ‘Alpina’ ‘Alpina’ shares many visual characteristics with ‘Albert’s Gold’, except the leaves generally weigh in quite a bit darker on the green spectrum. Grown together with ‘Albert’s Gold’, ‘Alpina’ showcases the rich variety of colours offered by tree heather. Grown alone, it’s another way to capture and replicate the rugged flora that can be hard to achieve in UK gardens. E. arborea ‘Estrella Gold’ ‘Estrella Gold’ is a little daintier, compared to the rugged varieties we’ve shown already. Each leaf has a small white centre, creating a speckled, almost snow-like effect when seen from afar. This cultivar also grows to a far smaller maximum height than Albert’s Gold and Alpina, demonstrating the versatility available between the different types. How To Grow Tree Heather Generally speaking, tree heather is hardy and sturdy; being able to take whatever British climate sees fit to throw at it. There are many things you can do to give your plants the best chance at a long and healthy life, however. Where To Grow Choose a spot with acidic soil that can drain freely. Soil that retains moisture, or is neutral or alkali, will stifle or even kill off further tree heather growth. This plant likes full sun or partial shade, and will do well growing under the canopy of a bigger tree. In fact, the shelter offered by another tree will promote better growth because, while hardy, E. arborea prefers not to be fully exposed to the elements. Planting Tree heathers are grown from younger plants, rather than from seed. Planting yours out is simply a case of finding the right spot in your garden (see the next section), and taking the following steps. First, dig a hole a couple of times wider than your rootball, to a depth that allows the top of the rootball to align with the soil surface. Next, remove your well-watered plant from its pot, tease apart the roots from the clumped root ball and plonk it into the hole. Depending on the variety you’re growing, you may want to place a stake at this stage. This is a structure made of wood or similar that provides support for the growing plant, making up for the strength that the root system would provide to a fully-established plant. Finally, fill in the hole, ensuring that the soil is packed down tightly enough to fill air pockets, but not so tightly that you crush the plant. Tree Heather Care Feeding When planting out your tree heather, we advise working a few centimetres of compost well into the soil in the area your plant will go. Be generous with the compost, taking into account the eventual size of the mature plant. Enriching the soil with nutrients early on will give the developing root system the best possible shot at getting what it needs to grow big and strong. Watering With evergreens, you need to stay vigilant. In the first season, check in often to see whether the roots are moist. You’ll want to keep them well-watered to promote the strongest growth. Then, through winter, you need to take into account the water lost through the leaves – much more of a consideration for evergreens than other plant types. Keeping your tree heather well-watered throughout the year, rather than waiting for it to show signs of thirst before watering, will best set you up for success. Pruning As a shrub, tree heather will do well with regular annual pruning to keep it in shape. The best time of year to do this is late spring: after the frosts that may damage freshly cut areas, and with enough time to allow new growth to cover up most of the visual evidence of pruning. This said, however, pruning isn’t required to keep the plant alive – tree heather falls into RHS Pruning Group 8, meaning it can do without.2 If you do decide to prune, do so after flowering. Remove any diseased or damaged shoots, and then thin out sections that may have become crowded. “Tree heathers can become straggly, especially if not annually pruned,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Branches can be pruned back to around 30cm from ground height if required after flowering. “Plants will respond by putting on fresh growth, which should be tip-pruned to develop bushy growth.” Common Problems Tree heather is a hardy plant that’s not likely to attract any pests or prove particularly problematic. The most likely issue is a thirsty plant struggling to thrive, but if you follow the steps in the watering section, you should be able to control against that. Phytophthora Root Rot No, that’s not a typo. Phytophthora is a species of fungus that can wreak havoc on the roots of certain tree heather varieties. Rot caused by phytophthora is hard to distinguish from that caused by overly-moist soil – over time, rot reduces the roots’ ability to draw nutrients from the soil, leading to wilting, discolouration, and general poor health. Unfortunately, once you see symptoms above ground, things are usually too far gone below ground to salvage the plant. Keeping soil well-drained to control against rot caused by waterlogging should help you be more certain that any rot you do encounter is Phytophthora. In this instance, you need to remove and destroy the plant, then to replace the topsoil in the affected area. While drastic, this is the best solution in ensuring that future outbreaks do not occur. Whether you go for the forest-in-miniature ‘Albert’s Gold’, the daintier and more delicate ‘Alpina’, or one of the many other E. arborea varieties, tree heather is sure to make a good impression. We can assure you that you won’t look back, whatever the heather. References 1. Erica arborea. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328204-1 2. Shrubs: pruning evergreens. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/shrubs/evergreen-pruning-guide
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How To Grow And Care For Hebe According To Professional Grower Charlie Bewley
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Hebe Plant Care & Growing Tips Classification References Hebe is a plant known to be bushy and sprawling to upright and trim, with foliage ranging from greyish blue-green to a brilliant emerald hue. With inflorescences in all kinds of shapes including spires, sprays, and ‘puffballs’, and in colours ranging from pastel pink to deep purple, this shrub spoils you for choice. These immensely likeable plants are low-care evergreens; they are easy as 1-2-3: Plant, Gaze, and be Delighted! We reached out to Charlie Bewley from Hic Bibi Wholesale Nurseries to contribute to this guide. Pressed on his love for these plants, Charlie answers: “Hebes are evergreen, have a good range of foliage and flower colour and bees love their flowers – we get plenty of bees and other insects visiting our crops.” Overview Botanical Name Hebe Plant Type Shrub / Hedging Native Area New Zealand, Rapa, Falklands, South America Hardiness Rating H3/H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Racemes or spikes of small flowers When To Sow April, May, June, July, August, September Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune April, May Hebe is a genus of evergreens that is native to New Zealand. They are evergreens and are technically shrubs, most of which are of a bushy habit though there is variation in size; two or three species can reach even 2-2.5m in height. Some species have a mat-forming habit and a few have an erect habit. Though Hebe varieties’ leaves are simple and paired, quite a number of varieties are interesting for – besides other properties – the foliage, as their leaves display unusual textures, hues of green, or eye-catching variegation. As for the flowers, their delightful inflorescences come in a diversity of shapes – tubular, sprays, spires, rays, salvers, ‘puffballs’ – and a range of colours across the blue-red spectrum, from the palest pastel to the deepest tone. Adding to their charms, they flower all through summer and autumn with some varieties producing blooms in winter as well! These wonderful plants are not only diverse and delightful, but they are also easy-care, trouble-free, tough, and well-suited to the British Isles as evidenced by the fact that RHS has accorded its Award of Garden Merit to thirty Hebe varieties.1 Charlie cites Hebe pinguifolia ‘Pagei’ as one of his favourite varieties because of its unique foliage shape and subtle colour. “Hebe ‘Pagei’ has delicate little globular foliage in a silvery colour. It is a spreading variety, so it is great for ground cover.” If you’re a gardener who takes pleasure and joy from Nature’s boon of flowering plants in all their diverse beauty, then Hebe is one of your top picks. Habitat & Growing Conditions All but a few species of Hebe are native to New Zealand.2 Though they grow throughout the island country, one cluster of species is partial to riparian zones and another grouping is concentrated in the country’s sub-alpine locations. Sunlight & Aspect In the wild these plants are found in open, unsheltered areas where they get full sun and also ‘full wind’, so to speak. Therefore, these fuss-free plants are happiest in full sun but also do well in partial shade. As a bonus, aspect has no bearing on these plants. They are more tolerant of stiff winds than other similarly-sized plants. “With many Hebe being mounded and possessing tight, leathery leaves, it is not surprising that they can stand up to strong winds,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “This makes Hebe great for coastal regions, but the hardier alpine varieties are also suitable for colder, windy areas.” The variance and diversity in Hebe extends to their Hardiness Zones which range from a low of USDA 7 to a high of 11 – or H3/H4 by RHS classifications. Planting Hebe When To Plant April to June is the best time to plant (or transplant) Hebe plants outdoors. This would allow ample time for their roots to get established before the onset of winter. You can help along new plants’ root systems by watering them but not giving them any fertiliser. Where To Plant Hebe can be planted in almost any type of soil including poor soil. What they value more than anything else is sun and light, so put them in a location where they get full sun or the maximum amount of sun. This should not be misunderstood to mean that Hebe prefer high heat; in fact, they do best where the summers are cool to temperate. You don’t have to plant Hebe by the seaside or in a coastal area but this is one plant that you can grow without any anxiety in locations which have that tang of sea-salt – sea spray – in the air. Hebe plants should be planted in the appropriate location depending on the size, habit, foliage, and flowers of the variety in question. Though Hebe plants are considered – with justification – ideally suited to informal gardens and cottage gardens, their enormous diversity means that a few varieties would be top choices for architectural plantings, e.g. H. ‘Emerald Gem’ and Hebe salicifolia, while some varieties would be top choices for balcony pots, e.g. H. ‘Red Edge’ and H. ‘Youngii.’ H. ‘Emerald Gem’ Plant Care & Growing Tips Soil Soil may be virtually any type at all except for heavy, dense, clay soils. Slightly Alkaline pH is ideal though the pH may be anything from Neutral to Moderately Alkaline. These plants should have well-drained soil but even here what is a ‘must’ for the vast majority of plants is a ‘nice to have’ for most varieties. Feeding Hebe does not need or even really benefit a great deal from being fed. That said, they can certainly be given some general fertiliser or bone meal in spring. Where Hebe and fertilising are concerned, experiment but be conservative and cautious. Winter Care The one area that Hebe do require a watchful eye, and care as needed, is where the winter weather is concerned. Be aware of the hardiness zones of your Hebe varieties because most of them are right on the border for United Kingdom locations. If you live in a cold region and you feel your Hebe may not be hardy, play it safe, mulch the plant, and shelter it from the weather. Classification It is necessary to mention that the Botanical classification and taxonomy of genera and species are subject to disagreement and revision, and Hebe is a prime example of such disagreement.3 For instance, even as Genus Hebe was subsumed within Genus Veronica by some scientists, others segregated a species group from Genus Hebe to its own, new, genus!4 Even the number of species in the genus is in dispute because there is no consensus as to which species belongs where. In our overview we treat Hebe as a genus, i.e. Genus Hebe. It has about 189 species and about 800 cultivars. Of the 189 species only 15 are officially accepted!5 Although the genus Hebe has been subsumed within the genus Veronica by botanists6, many plants continue to be sold as Hebe.7 After much hybridisation and cultivation, quite a staggering variety of Hebe plants have been developed. Partly as a result of these efforts they are – at least superficially if not morphologically – wonderfully varied and disparate. References 1. See RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) plant, fruit & veg award winners. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/trials-awards/award-of-garden-merit 2. Hebe. (n.d.). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/hebe 3. Wagstaff, S., Bayly, M., Garnock-Jones, P., & Albach, D. (2002). Classification, Origin, and Diversification of the New Zealand Hebes (Scrophulariaceae). JSTOR. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.jstor.org/stable/3298656 4. Garnock-Jones, P. (n.d.). Heliohebe (Scrophulariaceae – Veroniceae), a new genus segregated from Hebe. New Zealand Journal of Botany, 31(4), 323–339. https://doi.org/10.1080/0028825X.1993.10419510 5. International Register of Hebe Cultivars. (n.d.). Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rnzih.org.nz/Book_Reviews/Hebe_Register-2.htm 6. Plants of the World Online. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/results?q=Hebe 7. Hebe. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved June 13, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/hebe
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Sue Hunter On Pruning Holly: Be Selective With Young Plants; Use Hat-Racking For Older Ones
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Holly? When To Prune Holly How To Prune Holly How Far Can You Cut Holly Back? What To Keep In Mind What About Holly In Containers? Left to their own devices, most holly varieties will grow into a large tree shape. The maximum height will vary between varieties, with some able to reach fifteen metres or more. Prune it, however, and you can sculpt your holly tree into completely different shapes. Whether a boxed hedge or something approaching a topiary, holly lends itself well to being shaped and pruned. Why Prune Holly? Holly, left alone, will grow into a traditional tree shape “Holly is versatile in the garden and landscape – there is a species of holly for every situation,” claims Sue Hunter – President of the Holly Society of America. This versatility also extends to their pruning needs. Some holly varieties grow to over fifteen metres high, meaning that they become quickly unruly – especially if they’re in an area of your garden where a giant tree won’t fit with the aesthetic. Pruning is a great way to keep your tree in check, and to force its natural tendencies to comply with your aesthetic demands. Doing this properly won’t damage the plant, so make sure to read the following sections carefully. They’ll teach you what you need to know to keep your holly under control without causing any damage. When To Prune Holly Deciding when to prune comes down to finding the balance between convenience and the plant’s stage in its lifecycle. The consensus is that late spring, around April, is the best time, as the plant is most receptive to pruning, and the outdoor conditions are conducive to the job. “Winter berries will also have been eaten by birds by this time, so leaving pruning until the spring will help them,” adds Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. Pruning too late in the year can increase the risk of new shoots being young when the first frosts hit, leading to stunted ongoing growth. Although it’s undeniably festive, pruning in these conditions is best avoided Pruning too early means you have to spend hours out in the cold fighting with a spiky bush, which isn’t our idea of fun. “Besides, the same issue arises where new growth is damaged by late frosts and sets the plant back at the start of the new season,” Roy says. Beyond those constrictions, you have a lot of flexibility with timing, but spring is favourite. How To Prune Holly Now you’ve got an idea of the best time to prune a holly tree, you need to know how to do it. There’s a little more to it than taking secateurs to the plant and going wild: you want to prune in a way that encourages new growth while respecting old growth, and avoiding damage to either. The received wisdom is to prune stems rather than leaves, and to do this as close to a flowering bud as possible. Doing so will encourage the bud to grow, and is the quickest way to facilitate new growth on your holly tree. Bear in mind that, according to Sue, pruning holly with shears is not always to best idea: “Over time, shearing causes irregular growth within the branching structure of the plant which causes dieback from the inside out.” How Far Can You Cut Holly Back? “Younger hollies respond well to selective pruning as they grow, whilst old, established hollies respond well to a more drastic type of pruning called ‘hat-racking’,” explains Sue. “Hat-racking is where most of the branches are reduced to one-third to one-half their original size and it is almost always performed during the winter dormancy.” Theoretically, you can prune back very hard, although bear in mind that the stems on the inner part of the tree may have much less growth than the outer ones. This is because, over time, they’ll have received less sunlight than the outer branches, meaning fewer buds and fewer leaves. So, if you’re pruning back hard, you may encounter parts of the tree with relatively small amounts of growth. If these formerly inner branches become outer ones on your newly-pruned configuration, the tree may look more barren and bare than it did before. This isn’t necessarily a problem, as these branches will start to put forth buds and leaves over time. You just have to accept that your holly tree may not look as healthy as it once did. “It can take two growing seasons for a Holly which has been hard-pruned to cover itself in foliage again, but it’s worth the wait, as the shrub will then be the desired shape and size and can be selectively pruned more regularly to keep it that way,” adds Roy. What To Keep In Mind Most holly is sharp! If you’ve ever trodden barefoot on a dried holly leaf, you’ll know just how painful their spikes can be. And obviously taking pair of secateurs to your holly tree involves putting your hands, arms, and even face very close to their treacherous barbs. When pruning holly, make sure to wear the relevant gear. This obviously includes thick gloves, but we recommend wearing long sleeves and long trousers, too. Some gardeners advise wearing goggles when pruning holly, too. This may seem excessive, and you might feel like a bit of a wally heading into the garden in full protective clothing, but avoiding a spike in the eye is worth the risk to your street cred! Of course, if you’re growing a variety like Golden King whose leaves are wonderfully smooth, you can probably leave the riot gear indoors. What About Holly In Containers? One of the appealing things about holly is that it grows well in containers, making it a great ornamental plant for balconies, patios, and even indoor settings. Growing holly in containers requires more pruning, however, so don’t put those gloves away just yet. When growing holly in a container you’ll want to prune it annually at first, gradually switching to twice a year in most cases once the plant is ready for it. And you’ll know when it’s ready, as it will take two prunes a year to keep it in the condition that one used to take.
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Growing Pieris 'Forest Flame': Popular As Robust And Attractive Garden Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ Plant Care Common Pests References Plants in the Pieris family are evergreen shrubs, known for their ornamental foliage and their exciting red, white, and green aesthetic. They’re native to parts of Asia, North America and Cuba. Over the years, though, this plant has become a popular addition to British gardens, and it’s easy to see why: It’s attractive, it’s different, and it’s not overly fussy about where it grows. “Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ arose as a hybrid at Sunningdale Nurseries, an accident of history like many hybrids that go on to become popular cultivars,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “‘Forest Flame’ are usually popular because they are robust and attractive garden plants.” If you’re interested in growing Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ in your garden, we’ve written this guide with you in mind. After reading, you’ll be equipped with the knowledge you need to get a Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ thriving in your garden. You’ll be able to enjoy its joyous displays of red, white, and green whenever you need a pick-me-up. Overview Botanical Name Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ Common Name(s) Pieris ‘Forest Flame’; Andromeda; Fetterbush Plant Type Shrub / Hedging Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen (the young leaves are bright red; then transform from pink to green) Flowers Cream, bell-shaped When To Sow June, September Flowering Months April, May, June When To Prune March, April, June Pieris ‘forest flame’ is the common name for Pieris floribunda, one of seven types. Other species include P. cubensis, P. formosa, P. japonica, P. nana, P. phillyreifolia and P. swinhoei. While all Pieris are known for their red, white, and green, ‘Forest Flame’ is slightly darker than others. It’s a large evergreen shrub that will bring red flowers in spring, fading into pink, cream, and then green throughout the year. How To Grow Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ has received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), indicating its suitability for growth in British gardens.1 This means the plant is a great choice for budding gardeners who want something attractive and rewarding, without being too much of a challenge to grow. Growing Benefits Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ is fairly easy to grow if you cater to its needs. The plant takes between 10 and 20 years to reach its full height, which will usually clock in around 2.5-4m. In terms of spread, you should expect about 1.5-2.5m at full maturity. ‘Forest Flame’ is one of the bigger Pieris plants, meaning you may prefer a smaller variety if you’re working with a more compact garden space. This plant is a beacon for bees, and its pollen-rich flowers will attract plenty of these buzzing boys to your garden. In my opinion, this is an asset rather than a drawback: Bee populations are in decline, and they especially struggle in urban environments, meaning they need as much help as they can get! Bees won’t sting unless very provoked, and watching them go about their buzzy business is a relaxing, almost therapeutic way to spend time in your garden. When To Plant In autumn or early spring, dig a small hole in your garden about the size of the container your Pieris is growing in. Then transfer the plant across, pat down with soil, water gently, and leave to settle in. Where To Plant Pieris plants like to grow in full sun or partial shade. They’re happy with any aspect except north-facing, and prefer to be sheltered. One area where ‘Forest Flame’ is fussy, is soil pH. This plant will only thrive in acidic soil, so take special note and ensure your flowerbed contains the right type of soil. The RHS recommends this plant for borders and beds, low-maintenance banks and slopes, informal patio areas, courtyards, containers, and more. In short, it lends itself well to a wide variety of settings. Plant Care Watering Pieris ‘Forest Flame’ needs a hand to get established, and this is when you’ll be watering it most often – every week or so. Once established, the plant is much happier to do its own thing, and will only need your help during particularly dry spells. During heatwaves, drought, or just hot British summer, water regularly. Make sure not to overwater your ‘Forest Flame’ – this could end up dousing it! Soil Nutrition Adding pine needle mulch can help to keep the soil acidity low and conserve soil moisture. Common Pests There’s only a tiny handful of plants that attract zero pests, and sadly ‘Forest Flame’ isn’t one of them. This plant is prone to a few pesky visitors who can cause varying degrees of damage. Here’s what to look for and how to hopefully avoid – Pieris Lacebug This critter is so fond of Pieris, that it’s named after it. And despite only making its first UK appearance in 1998, it’s become a mainstay in our gardens ever since.2 The lacebug is easily identifiable by the delicate lacy pattern on its wings. You may notice the bugs directly, or you may see the evidence of their visit: coarse mottling, bleached yellow leaves, leaf drop, and brown spots on the leaf underside. If you suspect an infestation, try first to encourage natural predators like birds, ladybirds, and wasps. Each will be tempted to eat the lacebugs, hopefully nipping your infestation in the bud. Should pest control not work, there is a selection of pesticides available that can help. Be careful not to spray pesticides onto flowering plants, as this can cause harm to bees and pollinators that visit. Phytophthora This blight causes root rot which, as you can probably guess, wreaks havoc on plants. Once this fungal organism takes hold of a root, there’s no way to save the plant. At this stage, you have to destroy it and replace the soil to prevent further spread. Prevention, then, is the cure. You want to make sure your soil is well-drained, as phytophthora thrives in damp, water-logged soil. The symptoms are similar to those of waterlogging and drought, so it can be hard to distinguish definitively. Wilt, dieback, and fading foliage are all indicators that your plant may have a case of phytophthora. Leaf Spot Another fungal infection, this time causing brown blemishes or ‘spots’ on leaves. Again, overly moist soil is a high-risk factor, as is moisture remaining on the leaves themselves. To reduce the risk of leaf spot, water the soil rather than the entire plant. If you can’t help watering the whole plant (with a hose, for example) then do it early in the morning – this will give the leaves time to dry off throughout the day. If your ‘forest flame’ does get hit with leaf spot, you can choose to use organic treatment or harsher fungicides. Heed our earlier warning about not damaging pollinators! This is an attractive and rewarding plant that brings a veritable medley of colour to any outdoor space, and it’s easy to make it thrive in a British backyard. We wish you the best of luck with your new Pieris! References 1. Pieris “Forest Flame.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/95172/pieris-forest-flame/details 2. Pieris lacebug. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/pieris-lacebug
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Why You Should Grow Berberis (Barberry) As A Useful And Productive Garden Shrub
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Berberis? Where To Grow Berberis Planting Berberis Plant Care Berberis Sawfly Cutting Back References There are a number of different types of Berberis that make excellent choices for UK gardens. Though they might not be the showiest of plants, these evergreen shrubs are extremely useful, both in the garden and potentially also for their yields in a productive system – and they can often be truly beautiful at certain times of the year. Overview Botanical Name Berberis Common Name(s) Barberry Plant Type Shrub Native Area Dependent On Variety Hardiness Rating Mostly H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small yellow or orange flowers followed by dark berries When To Sow February, March, April, September, October, November Flowering Months April, May, June, July Berberis is the name given to a large genus of mostly evergreen shrubs that are found throughout many of the world’s temperate and sub-tropical regions.1 These plants are also commonly known as ‘barberry’. There are a number of different species within this genus, cultivars of several of which are common garden plants in the UK and in other similar climate zones. B. vulgaris Amongst those cultivars commonly grown as garden shrubs, there is a wide variety. There are taller growing species and shorter growing species, some spiny, some with ornamental leaves, flowers and berries. Why Grow Berberis? Berberis can be very useful shrubs for a range of reasons. They can be: Excellent hedgerow plants, creating thick and often spiny barriers, they can be used in wind-break plantings or as barriers for people or certain animals/ livestock. Suitable choices for planting in dappled or partial shade in a border or forest garden. Good for sites which experience maritime exposure. Suitable for planting in a range of different soil types including heavy clays, alkaline, neutral or acidic soils, and nutritionally poor soils as long as they are relatively moist. Great for wildlife-friendly planting schemes and for attracting native wildlife to the garden. The plants attract and feed bees and other pollinators when in flower. Birds like the berries – and a number of species will benefit from the shelter and habitats these shrubs can provide. Useful for providing humans with an edible yield. The barberries from a number of different Berberis can be eaten raw, dried or cooked and used in a range of preserves. Used to derive a yellow dye. (This is obtained from the roots and bark.) Attractive plants which provide visual interest through a large part of the year. Where To Grow Berberis All Berberis are, as mentioned above, relatively unfussy about where they are grown. However, for best results, they should usually be grown in moist yet relatively free-draining soil. You can use them to create a hedgerow, either a formal clipped hedge or a wilder and more natural hedge with mixed species. The latter is recommended for wildlife-friendly and eco-friendly garden design. You can also place Berberis at the back of a bed or border with any aspect, or even grow smaller and more compact Berberis shrubs in containers. Planting Most people will choose to purchase a Berberis shrub to place in their gardens. However, you can also propagate existing plants (perhaps in a friend or neighbour’s garden) by taking semi-ripe cuttings in the late summer or autumn. Cuttings should be taken in the usual way and planted out in their final growing positions once the root systems have begun to form. When planting out Berberis shrubs, make sure you dig a generous hole large enough to accommodate the root system. Add some home-made compost, leaf mould or other organic material into the planting hole to boost fertility. In areas where you feel a healthy fungal soil population may be lacking, it could also be a good idea to consider adding mycorrhizal fungi at this stage. Fill back in the hole, water generously, and mulch well around the shrub with organic matter. Berberis Plant Care Berberis are a great low-maintenance plant and usually require little care. They do not usually encounter many problems and once established, should not need regular watering unless the conditions are particularly dry. Berberis Sawfly One problem that can potentially arise is Berberis sawfly. Keep your eyes peeled for the small caterpillars and handpick these off the plants. Organic sprays are available, but are typically only effective at early larval stage. So picking off these by hand and staying alert is usually the best approach. Keep checking plants between April and October to stay on top of things. Act quickly if you see a few, as a bad infestation can decimate a hedge and leave it completely defoliated. Cutting Back The only other care that Berberis will typically require is pruning. In wilder gardens, you can largely leave these low-maintenance shrubs to their own devices. You can simply prune them once a year as desired to maintain their shape. If, however, you have a more formal garden and want a neat hedgerow, you will likely need to trim your Berberis twice a year. Remember that if you prune after flowering, the shrubs will not be able to produce their berries, so if you want to keep the fruit for yourself or for garden wildlife, give Berberis a trim only in the winter months. Berberis is a very rewarding plant to grow. Whether you grow it for environmental protection for other garden plants, for aesthetic evergreen appeal in shrubberies or garden borders, or as part of a perennial food-producing system, it can offer great value to a gardener. So why not consider adding some Berberis to your garden? References 1. Berberis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328526-2
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Growing Viburnum Davidii: Nursery Grower Shares Care, Pruning And Propagation Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Viburnum Viburnum Care Pruning Guidelines Propagation Common Problems References Viburnum davidii is a type of evergreen shrub that has very distinctive glossy leaves and white flowers. Adding Viburnum to your garden is a great way to add visual interest and it integrates well with other plants and shrubs. Growing this shrub in your garden is quite simple – if you plant in early spring, then you’ll be able to enjoy the full benefit of their stunning blooms by the time summer comes around. They can tolerate shade quite well, so you don’t need to worry about finding the perfect spot either. Overview Botanical Name Viburnum davidii Common Name(s) David Viburnum Plant Type Shrub Native Area Western China Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen, deep green leathery leaves Flowers Dull white flowers followed by vivid berries When To Sow February, March, October, November Flowering Months May, June Viburnum davidii is native to western China, can grow up to 1.5m tall and has oval-shaped leaves and clusters of small white flowers.1 How To Grow Viburnum When planting viburnum shrubs, if possible you should choose a spot that receives plenty of sunlight. Some varieties are tolerant of partial shade, but in general, Viburnum are sun-loving plants. You should also make sure that the soil is well-drained to prevent issues caused by waterlogging. “Viburnums do not like wet feet or soil that does not drain for long periods of time,” says Gary. “If you are faced with this and you don’t want to provide subsurface drainage, plant your viburnums with the root ball elevated above the soil surface. This can be achieved by first digging the planting hole deeper than the root ball to encourage drainage, then placing the soil back in the hole to the desired planting depth, leaving half of the root ball exposed above the existing soil surface. “Finish backfilling by mounding soil around the exposed portion of the root ball and sloping it away from the base of the plant so that water will run away from the planting hole. “One very important precaution when planting using this method is to make sure that when you replace the over-excavated soil back in the hole, you lightly tamp it so that when you water your plant it does not settle.” Good ventilation is essential if you want your plants to thrive and avoid potential issues with fungal diseases. Planting This being the case, you should plant them roughly 10-15 meters apart. Once you have found a good spot, you should dig a hole that’s big enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Position the plant and fill the hole with soil; be sure to water it well immediately after planting and continue to water it at least once a week for the first six months. The best time to plant would be in the spring or autumn – both these times of year will give your plants the ideal conditions to become established, by gifting them a good mix of sunlight and rain. “Viburnum davidii is dioecious, meaning that it has separate male and female plants,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “If you want to enjoy their attractive blue berries, make sure you select your plants in the autumn as the males will be berry-less. Choose male plants as well as females to ensure fertilisation.” Viburnum Care V. davidii plants need a good amount of exposure to the sun in order to flower at their best. They will need to be watered regularly while they’re establishing themselves. It’s a good idea to use mulch to help the soil retain moisture. V. davidii doesn’t typically require a specific type of soil to do well and providing the soil is not overly saturated, they will be fine. If you want to use a fertiliser with your plants, then spring would be the best time. Pruning Guidelines V. davidii shrubs don’t need too much pruning, outside of removing dead leaves or damaged branches. If you notice that branches are becoming a little too dense, then it’s not a bad idea to prune them to improve air circulation. Good air circulation will mean your plants grow better and lessen the risk of disease. Although pruning generally isn’t necessary for V. davidii to grow well, you can prune young plants if you want to shape them. Pinching out the sides of young plants will enable you to create a balanced look without causing any harm to them. Propagation There are a couple of good ways to propagate viburnum shrubs: Taking Cuttings Using cuttings is a quick and easy way to propagate new plants from an existing Viburnum – with early summer being the best time to take cuttings. Be sure to take your cuttings from new growth that hasn’t yet flowered and ensure you only take from plants that are well watered. Place your cuttings in a container with good-quality compost and lightly water them. They will need some light, but it’s not recommended to keep them in direct sunlight – using a propagator would be ideal. The cuttings should become established and show signs of new growth in 5-10 weeks. Layering Layering is a very easy way of propagating viburnum and simply means taking a stem from an existing plant and encouraging it to form its own roots. There are a few ways to accomplish this, but we’ll look at the simplest here. Check the outside of your plants for stems that can be bent to the soil level. You should then make a small incision in the stem and bury it in the soil – you can use a large rock or brick to rest it on the stem and keep it buried in the soil. Everything being well, this stem should form its own roots in 1-2 months. Once it’s well established, you can then transplant it elsewhere in your garden, so it has room to flourish. Common Problems Viburnum plants tend to be problem-free. However, when they’re grown in less-than-ideal conditions or when they’re first becoming established, certain diseases and pests can affect them in their vulnerable state. Here are a few of the most common: Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is a type of fungal disease that affects countless plants. Plants that develop this issue will have a coating of white fungus on their leaves that is similar in appearance to powder (hence the name). Powdery mildew usually affects young viburnum, especially when they’re grown in humid conditions. Thankfully, there are effective ways to prevent and treat it – most importantly, you should take care when watering plants, so water doesn’t splash onto the leaves unnecessarily. For any plants that already have powdery mildew on them, you can use a fungicidal spray. Preventing and treating powdery mildew can also help with the prevention of leaf spot. Leaf Beetles Leaf beetles are a relatively new problem for viburnum plants and can be a real nuisance since they can very easily destroy the leaves of plants they infest. If you notice leaf beetles on your plants, then you should take steps to remove them immediately. You can often spot their larvae first and simply pruning any leaves where they’re present can be a good way to stop them from spreading further. Companion planting and introducing plants that attract predatory insects can be useful as ladybirds and other insects can help deal with the issue naturally. References 1. Viburnum davidii. (n.d.). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/viburnum-davidii
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Growing Mahonia Shrubs: They Will Do Well In Sun Or Shade And All Soil Types
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Mahonia Plant Care Propagation Common Problems References Mahonia is an evergreen shrub, with spiky dark green leaves, clusters of yellow flowers and purple or black berries. The plant is late-flowering, meaning that it will not produce its pretty yellow blooms until late autumn and winter. This makes it a great choice for adding colour to your garden later in the year, long after most spring and summer flowering plants have wilted. There are several species of Mahonia, many of which are easy to grow in the UK. It can thrive in sun or shade and does well in all soil types, so it’s an excellent choice for the trickier areas of your garden. Overview Botanical Name Mahonia Plant Type Shrub Native Area North / Central America & Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen, spiked glossy leaves Flowers Bright yellow spires When To Sow February, March, October, November Flowering Months January, February, March The Mahonia genus is part of the Berberidaceae family.1 There are around 70 species, including Mahonia japonica, and the Mahonia x media group, which includes the popular ‘Charity’ and ‘Winter sun’ varieties.2 All varieties grow to different sizes – the most popular species in the UK are upright and bushy, and range from 1-5m in height, with a spread of up to 3m. However, there are also some varieties which grow low to the ground at around 30cm tall, and which are suitable for use as ground cover. Mahonia generally flowers in late autumn and winter, from November to March. The flowers are usually yellow, but occasionally red, and appear in clustered racemes. They are sometimes scented and can be followed by the production of purple or blackberries. Due to their late flowering period, Mahonia is a popular choice for garden borders, alongside other evergreen shrubs such as Rhododendron, or plants such as snowdrops, to provide further winter colour. Larger varieties, such as Mahonia ‘Charity’, are also often used as hedges and screening, where their thick and spiky nature makes them particularly effective at keeping out intruders. They are also seen in public areas, such as on roundabouts. Another name for Mahonia aquifolium is Oregon grape, which comes from the fact that Oregon adopted Mahonia as its state flower in 1899, and that the appearance of Mahonia berries is similar to that of black grapes.3 Habitat & Growing Conditions Mahonia’s natural habitat includes North America and Central America, as well as Asia and the Himalayas.4 It is often found growing in woodland and woodland edge locations, which is the reason it thrives in full and partial shade. The plant is hardy, and can survive temperatures down to -15°C. It has a low nutrient requirement, which means it grows in all types and pHs of soils, and although it prefers moist, well-drained soil, it can survive periods of drought. “I find Mahonia a useful shrub for under the outer canopy of trees due to their tolerance of dry shady conditions,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I like to plant other yellow flowering plants nearby that tolerate the same conditions and overlap the flowering period like Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine) and Narcissus ‘Rijnveld’s Early Sensation’ (early daffodil).” How To Grow Mahonia You can buy the most popular varieties of Mahonia in garden centres in the UK, or from online retailers. The varieties that are most widely available include M. japonica, M. x media ‘Charity’, M. x media ‘Winter sun’ and M. aquifolium. These will usually be available to purchase in pots, as plants of around 50cm tall. Other varieties that are available in the UK, but less widely so, include M. eurybracteata ‘Soft Caress’, which grows to a height of 1m – and M. nitens ‘Cabaret’, which produces unusual orange-red flowers but is not as hardy. When To Plant The best time to plant a Mahonia is generally considered to be spring or autumn, when the weather is neither too hot nor too cold. When planting, you should first soak the root ball in water for half an hour, to ensure it is moist. Add a small blood, fish and bone meal upon planting, to encourage new root growth. How To Plant To plant your Mahonia, you should dig a hole twice the size of the root ball. It’s not a good idea to plant the roots dry, so soak the roots in a bucket of water for 30 minutes prior to planting. You will need to make sure your Mahonia plant has enough space around it to grow, as they do not do well in crowded conditions. Exactly how much is required depends on the variety and the size of its ultimate spread. Place the plant in the hole, fill it in with compost, and feed with blood, fish and bone meal (avoid high-nitrogen plant foods). Water upon planting, and frequently whilst growing, although do not allow the ground to become waterlogged. Once established, the plant will require very little watering, and you should only need to water it during extremely hot, dry periods. Plant Care Mahonia is a hardy plant and is therefore relatively easy to look after. Sunlight It can grow in full sun, but it prefers partial shade or even full shade. Mahonia aquifolium Unlike many plants, it can thrive in an exposed location, providing it isn’t subjected to freezing winds – so you can position it almost anywhere in your garden. Soil Requirements It isn’t too fussy about soil type either and can grow well in sand, clay, chalk or loamy soil, and all pHs. The soil should be kept moist, but well-drained. Mahonia can withstand temperatures down to -15°C, but it is still a good idea to mulch the soil before winter (around September time), to help protect the roots from frost. Propagation If you know someone with an existing Mahonia, another way to acquire new plants is through propagation. The best time to propagate Mahonia is usually in late summer or early autumn, prior to flowering. You can do this easily by taking semi-ripe cuttings from the plant. Prepare for propagation by pruning hard in spring, to ensure plenty of new growth. When it comes to making your cuttings, choose healthy, horizontal shoots from the current season, with short gaps between the leaves. Use sharp secateurs to make cuttings of approximately 15cm, just below the leaf node. Propagate in the morning, to prevent wilting. Once you’ve taken the cutting, keep it cool, and aim to plant it within 12 hours. Dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone powder, and plant in pots filled with a mix of potting compost and sharp sand. Place in a greenhouse or cover with plastic indoors to keep warm. Keep the soil moist, but well-drained, and regularly remove any dead material, to prevent mould. Common Problems There are not many diseases and pests common to the Mahonia plant. Powdery Mildew One possible problem to watch out for is powdery mildew, which will cause brown spots and a grey powdery fungus to develop on the underside of leaves. Help to avoid this by watering the soil, not the leaves of your shrub, and keeping it in a sunny location. If it develops anyway, you can treat it with a fungicide. Rust Another potential problem to watch out for is rust. This is more common in certain varieties, including M. aquifolium. Rust will manifest itself as deep red, brown and black pustules on your plant, particularly on the lower leaf surface, which can reduce your plant’s vigour. Help to prevent rust by removing all dead leaves and material after the growing period and pruning dense branches to ensure air can circulate through your plant. If caught early, you can tackle it by removing the affected leaves as soon as they appear – if not, you may need to apply a fungicide. Legginess The main problem commonly encountered by growers of Mahonia is that the base of the plant becomes ‘leggy’ (bare and woody), whilst the foliage is concentrated at the top. If your Mahonia becomes leggy, prune several branches completely to allow more light to access the base, and prune any branches with leaves at the end back to around 30cm. Remove several branches completely, to allow more light to reach the base of the plant. This should encourage new leaf growth. References 1. Colin, O., Hinsinger, D., & Strijk, J. (2021, January 27). Mahonia lancasteri (Berberidaceae), a new species originating from Sichuan (China) described from cultivation. Phytotaxa. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.biotaxa.org/Phytotaxa/article/view/phytotaxa.482.1.5 2. Mahonia. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/mahonia 3. Oregon State symbols. (n.d.). Oregon Encyclopedia. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.oregonencyclopedia.org/articles/oregon_state_symbols/#.ZBmm3uzP30o 4. Teeling, C. (2022). Mahonia aquifolium (Oregongrape). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.32269
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Pieris Works Particularly Well As Part Of A Shrub Display - Gardeners Share Growing Advice
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Pieris Ongoing Care This hardy, evergreen shrub is popular amongst gardeners, thanks to its elegant and colourful blooms. Pieris japonica draws on soft whites, vibrant pinks, and striking reds to deliver new and exciting colour combinations year-round. This plant really does have a lot to offer gardeners of all abilities. Pieris works particularly well as part of a shrub display, or in areas of your garden with a woodland feel. “Pieris japonica (and other Pieris species and cultivars) work well in combination with Camellia, Rhododendron and Azalea, preferring the same acidic soil conditions,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Select a brighter spot, at the edge of a wooded area.” The plant has confidence and poise to work equally well as a part of a group of shrubs, or as a standalone. We’ve written this guide to tell you everything you need to know about Pieris japonica. After reading, you’ll be confident in choosing the right variety for your garden, and in helping it to thrive. Overview Botanical Name Pieris japonica Common Name(s) Japanese Pieris Plant Type Shrub Native Area Japan Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen, leathery dark green leaves, often different and brightly hued when young Flowers Small, white When To Sow February, March, September, October Flowering Months May, June When To Prune June This is a type of shrub from the heather family that originally hails from Asia, and the drooping bundles of lantern-shaped flowers that appear in spring definitely evoke the essence of the orient. Although the floral bloom could be considered short – just two or three weeks – Pieris japonica punches above its weight aesthetically throughout the year. Japonica makes a beautiful addition to any garden Although P. japonica is the most common name, you may also hear the plant referred to as Japanese Andromeda, Japanese Pieris, or even Dwarf Lily-of-the-Valley Shrub. The latter is not to be confused with another Lily-of-the-Valley – Convallaria Majalis – which looks quite different! Japonica is the most popular of nine species of Pieris – others include P. cubensis, P. floribunda, P. formosa, P. nana, P. phillyreifolia, P. swinhoei, P. koidzumiana and P. amamioshimensis. This guide covers plants in the Japonica species, but the others also have a lot to offer. How To Grow Pieris If one of the varieties in our list has piqued your fancy, you’re probably wondering how best to grow a Pieris japonica in your garden. Thankfully this is quite a hardy plant – many varieties have a hardiness rating of H5, which means they can handle most of what a typical winter in the UK can throw at them. With that in mind, it’s still essential to ensure you plant out your japonica in the right soil and light conditions. Soil Requirements All varieties of P. japonica thrive in sandy, loamy soil with some acidity. For optimal growing conditions, the soil should be well-drained with some residual moisture. This plant will not tolerate alkaline soil, so grow in a container using ericaceous compost if your garden soil is not acidic. Where To Plant These plants will do best in full sun or partial shade and will struggle with no sunlight whatsoever. To give them the best chance at healthy growth, choose a location that is east or west facing to be safe. Some varieties from our list above can handle facing south, but none should be planted in a north-facing direction. When To Plant For the best results, plant your japonica in spring or autumn. With a Pieris, you can expect red growth around the leaves in February, followed by the most vibrant period of growth in March. This gives way to flowers – usually white but not always, as we’ve seen above – in April and May. As an evergreen, the leaves will stay on year-round. Planting Out Work a layer of rich compost into the soil to provide nourishment, then plant your japonica in a hole whose depth matches the extent of the root system. You should leave about two metres between individual shrubs if you are planting more than one at a time. Keeping the soil moist will help your japonica to grow at its best. We also recommend fertilising the plant in winter to ensure it gets all the nutrients it needs over winter. The fertiliser you use should be tailored to the requirements of plants that prefer acidic soil. Ongoing Care One of the reasons P. japonica is so popular amongst gardeners is the minimal care it requires. If you plant it in the right conditions and keep an eye out for any pests, your shrub will take care of itself. All you need to do is sit back and enjoy the show! A small caveat: though they are hardy, if extreme frosts are forecast, you should take steps to keep your plant’s roots warm. This is as simple as spreading some straw, pine needles, or similar around its base.
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Growing Weigela: Their Spreading Habit Makes Them A Valuable Screening Shrub
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Weigela Planting Weigela Care Propagation Common Problems References Weigela is a range of deciduous plants (typically grown as shrubs) that come in a variety of different colours. With their multi-coloured leaves and distinctive flowers, they are a great choice to add interest to your garden. “As well as different colours, Weigelas come in different sizes too, with dwarfing cultivars as well as larger shrubs,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Their spreading habit makes them a good screening shrub but they also make attractive specimen shrubs with their beautiful trumpet-like spring flowers.” Growing weigela in your garden isn’t too difficult – their water requirements are usually met by rainfall and providing you pick a good spot with plenty of sunlight, they should thrive for many years. Overview Botanical Name Weigela Plant Type Shrub Native Area Japan, China, Korea Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous, simple ovate leaves Flowers Funnel-shaped red, pink, yellow or white flowers When To Sow February, March, October, November Flowering Months May, June, July When To Prune July Weigela originated in Japan, China and Korea but today they’re grown in many different climates around the world.1 How To Grow Weigela Before planting, you should ensure that the soil is in decent condition. Soil that’s too hard, frozen or waterlogged would not be suitable. Planting The roots of weigela that have already been established tend to be quite substantial, so be sure to make a hole in the soil that can accommodate it properly. You should make the hole at least as deep as the roots and roughly twice as wide. Make sure to cover it properly and using a layer of mulch would not be a bad idea, particularly if you’re planting in autumn. The best time to plant weigela would be either in the spring or autumn. This is because it prevents the plants from being immediately exposed to strong sunlight, which can be an issue when you’re transplanting already established bushes. The best spot for weigela would be in either full or partial sunlight. Although weigela can cope in shaded spots, they won’t flourish in the same way as they would with a good amount of sunlight. Weigela Care Growing weigela in your garden isn’t too difficult, but it is important to know the best way to go about it if you want your plants to thrive. Below is a full guide to growing weigela in your garden, including the initial planting, watering, picking the right spot and using fertiliser. Watering Weigela plants have average watering needs. This means if there’s a decent downpour during the week, then you usually don’t need to worry about watering them. You should certainly water them during dry spells, however – make sure to soak the roots well when watering. Fertilising Using a good fertiliser that’s suitable for shrubs is certainly a good idea when you first plant your weigela. Propagation There are a couple of reliable ways to go about propagating weigela, both using cuttings. It is possible to propagate using seed but here we’ll focus on using cuttings. Early (Softwood) Cuttings Using cuttings that you take in late summer/early autumn is the first method you can use to propagate weigela. Before taking any cuttings, it’s a good idea to take any steps you can prior to ensure the plant is in optimal condition. A very good way to do this is by watering the plant you’ll be taking the cuttings from a day before you do. You’ll only need to do this if the soil is dry. Make sure that any cuttings you take have a decent amount of foliage with healthy-looking stems. Cut just below the leaf bud and make sure to remove some of the leaves that are close to the base in order to reduce the water requirements. Once you’ve taken the cuttings, it’s a good idea to use a rooting hormone powder on the base of the cutting to encourage healthy growth and reduce the risk of rotting. You should place your cuttings in a 9cm or 1-litre pot and use good quality propagating compost. It’s important to ensure the cuttings get a decent amount of sunlight but aren’t overexposed. A greenhouse under a bench or under shade netting would be an ideal location but failing that you can place them in a semi-shaded spot in the house. You should check on your cuttings at least once a week, being sure to remove any unhealthy-looking foliage as well as watering as needed. Hardwood Cuttings The second method for propagating weigela is using hardwood cuttings. This is where you take fully mature cuttings from the current year’s growth. You should follow the same steps as mentioned above when making the cuttings. The advantage to using hardwood cuttings as opposed to early cuttings – is that you’re able to grow them outdoors as well as indoors. If you choose to plant them outdoors, then you will need to take a bit of care to encourage the best growth. You should use a good quality compost and plant the stems so there’s roughly a third of them protruding from the soil. Growing them in containers, either indoors or in a greenhouse is another option. This does give you some advantages – namely being able to protect the cuttings from the harsh winter weather. If you do plant the cuttings in containers, then be sure to also use good quality compost and water them whenever they become dry. Providing you check on them regularly and provide proper care, they should be ready to plant outdoors by the next autumn. Common Problems Below are some of the most common diseases and problems that weigela can suffer from: Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is a very common type of fungal disease that affects a wide variety of plants. It’s so-called because the leaves of infected plants will have a coat of mildew on them that resembles white powder. To avoid powdery mildew, you should ensure that your plants have plenty of space between them for good circulation. You should also take care when watering to avoid any water getting on the leaves. If you have any plants that are affected by powdery mildew, then you should remove infected leaves, or in more severe cases – dig up and destroy infected plants. Black Spot Black spot is another type of fungal disease that can affect weigela. It will cause infected plants to develop black spots on their leaves and will often result in the leaves falling off the plant. To avoid black spot, you should take care not to get the leaves wet when watering, since this is often how it spreads. It’s also a good idea to use mulch, which helps to prevent water from splashing up. Rust Rust is a fungal disease that will cause orange-coloured spots to appear on the leaves of infected plants. If you notice any plants that are affected by rust, then you should either remove them or use a good fungicide. Spider Mites Spider mites may be small, but they can cause a lot of damage to plants. As well as injecting toxins into plants, they also leave visible webbing and quickly multiply. Thankfully, it’s quite easy to get rid of them – a simple spray of fungicidal soap or water is usually enough to remove them from plants. Mealybugs Mealybugs are another pest that can affect weigela. They are troublesome for a few reasons – firstly, they will drink from the leaves, which can easily result in poor growth. The honeydew they excrete also attracts ants as well as causing further issues with the honeydew itself growing mould. Aphids Aphids feed on the underside of leaves and the residue they leave behind can attract ants. If aphids become a problem, then you can wash them off with water or a fungicide. Another effective way to deal with them is by growing plants that attract predators, such as wasps and ladybirds. References 1. Weigela. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:6141-1
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