Growing
Pyracantha 'Firethorn': Grow This Plant To Enliven An Otherwise Dull Evergreen Hedge
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Pyracantha Varieties How To Grow Pyracantha Pyracantha Care Espalier (Wall Training) Pyracantha Common Problems References Pyracantha is an ornamental, evergreen shrub, characterised by its flaming red and orange berries, and sharp thorns – hence its other name, ‘Firethorn’. It also produces cream-coloured blooms in summer, making it a great way to introduce colour to your garden year-round. This is a fully hardy climbing or hedging plant, which grows well in the UK climate. It makes an attractive and low-maintenance addition to almost any garden – and can be grown either as a freestanding shrub, or trained to grow along a wall or fence. “This plant can really enliven an otherwise dull evergreen hedge with the unusual density of its flowers and fruits – few other plants will do a similar job so well,” says expert Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Reasons that make it an excellent choice for a hedging plant include that it’s fast-growing, has dense, evergreen foliage, and can reach heights of 4 metres if left unchecked. Plus, its sharp thorns can work to deter unwanted visitors from entering your property! Overview Botanical Name Pyracantha Common Name(s) Firethorn Plant Type Shrub Native Area Europe, South-East Asia, China and Taiwan Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Evergreen Flowers White flowers, bright orange/red berries When To Plant January, February, March, October, November, December Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune March, April Pyracantha is native to Europe, South East Asia, China and Taiwan.1 There are several species within the genus, which is part of the rose (Rosaceae) family. It is a dense, evergreen shrub that grows quickly – the plant produces white or cream-coloured blooms in summer and red, orange or yellow berries in autumn and winter. The largest varieties can grow to around 4m x 4m in size. Due to its size, density and sharp thorns, it is often considered a natural form of security. Whilst discouraging unwanted guests, pyracantha is also great for tempting more wildlife into your garden. The blooms attract pollinators, whilst the red berries of autumn appeal to birds. The thorns also provide protection for any native wildlife nesting or sheltering within its foliage. Habitat & Growing Conditions The natural habitat of pyracantha stretches from south-east Europe and the Mediterranean to south-east Asia. The plant is well-accustomed to high daytime temperatures, and low night-time ones – it can tolerate partial shade, but will flower and berry best when grown in full sunlight. Pyracantha grows in all soil types, including clay soil, as long as it has good drainage. The plant is tolerant of drought but does not like to be waterlogged, so prefers its soil to be dry rather than too wet. Pyracantha Varieties Some varieties are more suited to being freestanding, whilst others are better for training and hedging. ‘Red Column’ For example, ‘Red Column’ is a particularly fast-growing, thorny variety, with bright red berries and a height of around 3m, all of which makes for a great hedge. ‘Santa Cruz’ ‘Santa Cruz’ is smaller, reaching 1.5m, and is well-suited to container growth or ground cover. There are also newer varieties of pyracantha that have been bred to be resistant to some of its most common diseases. ‘Golden Charmer’ For example, the ‘Golden Charmer’ and ‘Teton’ varieties are resistant to pyracantha scab, and the ‘Saphyr’ series is resistant to both this and fireblight. How To Grow Pyracantha Pyracantha is a popular plant in the UK and is widely available. You can purchase seeds or cuttings from garden centres, specialist growers or online retailers. Note that if buying seeds, they will require 3 months of cold stratification before they will germinate. If, as is advisable, you are buying a potted plant for transplanting, look for one with a good shape, and a decent colouring of berries, indicating a healthy plant. Check it over to make sure there are no signs of pests or disease. There are many varieties of pyracantha, and you can choose based on whether you want to grow it freestanding, trained or as a hedge, as well as what colour of berries you want. Pyracantha Care Pyracantha can be planted year-round, although the best time is in the autumn or winter months. Exposure Try to find a sunny or partially shaded spot for it, as full shade will hamper berrying. It can tolerate high and low temperatures, (down to -15°C), as well as wind – although again, this may hamper growth. Soil Requirements Pyracantha will grow in most soils, but it prefers a fertile, deep loam – prior to planting, enrich the soil with a bucket of well-rotted manure and a balanced fertiliser, mixing it in with a garden fork. You can also feed the plant annually with a similar mix in spring. Watering You should water establishing plants frequently during the growing stages. Once the plant is established, it requires little maintenance, and will likely only need to be watered during particularly dry spells. It does not like to be waterlogged, as it is susceptible to root rot, so the soil should have good drainage. Add coarse grit to heavy or clay soil if necessary. Espalier (Wall Training) Pyracantha To espalier pyracantha, you should first fix horizontal wires across your wall, so you have something on which to attach the plant limbs. Plant your pyracantha approximately 50cm away from the wall, in springtime. This ensures the roots are not in any dry shade or rain shadow from the wall. This ensures the roots are not in any dry shade or rain shadow from the wall. Using soft plant ties or twine, tie the centre shoots vertically up the wall, and the side shoots at a 45° angle. Allow the plant to grow over summer, then re-direct the shoots horizontally in autumn. “Training shoots horizontally often reduces vigour, but increases flowering and fruiting,” says Peter Lickorish. Common Problems There are several diseases that are common to pyracantha. Pyracantha Scab Pyracantha scab is a fungal disease that causes unsightly black spots on the shrub’s leaves and berries, shrivelled flowers, and leaf and flower dropping. If you notice any of these symptoms, you should cut back the infected parts (even though this will mean fewer flowers the following year). You should also ensure that any infected material, such as fallen leaves and berries, is raked up and removed from the garden, as this is how the fungus survives over winter. In severe cases, use of an appropriate fungicide may also be required. Fireblight Another common problem is fireblight. This is a bacterial disease that thrives in wet and warm weather. It kills shoots, wilts flowers, and causes your plant to take on a ‘scorched’ appearance, with browned wood and cankers. Treatment is non-chemical only, and involves pruning the affected branches back to expose healthy wood, cutting back at least 30cm past any damage, and removing any remaining new flowers before they open. This is often how the bacteria enters the inner bark. Both pyracantha scab and fireblight will ravage the plant from spring to autumn. Pests Common pests include the pyracantha leaf-mining moth, and aphids. The leaf-mining moth lays its eggs on the plant, and the caterpillars then feast on its leaves from the inside, causing silvery ‘mines’ of discolouration. This is most likely to occur during late winter to early spring. Whilst it may look unsightly, most of the affected leaves will drop off and be replaced in spring, and the process has little effect on the overall health of the plant. Lack Of Berries Lack of berries is also often reported by pyracantha growers. This is usually a result of unfavourable growing conditions, such as frost or cold weather, drought or lack of food. Make sure to water your plant during dry spells, and try adding a high-potassium plant feed to the soil in spring. References 1. Pyracantha. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30154448-2
Learn more
Leylandii Plant Care Guidelines: Read This Before Planting This Fast-Growing Conifer
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Plant Care & Growing Tips Habitat & Growing Conditions Pruning Leylandii Common Problems Neighbourly Disputes How To Stop Leylandii Growing References The Leylandii (x Cuprocyparis leylandii) is a fast-growing, evergreen conifer that makes up much of our British hedgerows, and divides many a garden – and opinion. A UK-born hybrid of the Monterey cypress and Nootka cypress trees, Leylandii is a hardy plant which grows quickly and easily in the UK and thrives in a wide variety of soils.1 When properly pruned and managed, it makes the ideal hedgerow or screen – dense, green, and capable of reaching great heights. Many people admire Leylandii for its impressive size and foliage, which can provide shade and shelter, and create a feeling of privacy in even the most overlooked gardens. But it’s not for everyone – this thirsty tree consumes a lot of nutrients from the soil, and can block out much-desired sunlight.2 Leylandii is responsible for more than its fair share of neighbourly disputes! Providing you know what you’re getting into, Leylandii can make a highly advantageous addition to your garden. Overview Botanical Name Leylandii Common Name(s) Leyland Cypress Plant Type Tree Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Evergreen When To Sow March, April When To Prune May, June, August, September Leylandii is said to have originated on the Leighton Hall estate, near Powys in Wales. Here, the Monterey cypress and Nootka cypress trees, which are both native to North America and usually grow 400 miles apart, were brought into contact for the first time.3 They were cross-fertilised, creating 6 clone plants, and the Leylandii (or Leyland Cypress) as we know it today was born.4 Leylandii is a fast-growing, pyramidal conifer that can reach over 30m tall. It has reddish-grey ridged bark, and brown slender twigs – although these are mostly concealed by the dense green foliage. This foliage consists of scaly, over-lapping leaves in flat sprays. The tree also produces ball-shaped brown cones, which on male plants have yellow tips at the end. Common Varieties The two most common variants of Leylandii are Green and Golden – of these, the green variant is the most common. It grows faster and taller than the gold, and its leaves are finer, scalier, and more blue-green in colour. In comparison, Golden Leylandii leaves are, unsurprisingly, gold-tinted. Within each variant are many different cultivars, including the bright green ‘Hillspire’, the blue-tinged ‘Naylor’s Blue’, and the yellow-tipped ‘Gold Rider’. Leylandii has stunning green and yellow foliage As is common in hybrid plants, Leylandii is sterile and is not capable of reproducing itself. This means that all of the numerous Leylandii plants growing in the UK today were planted by humans. Leylandii’s popularity stems from its dense foliage, inexpensive cost, and quick-growing nature (it can grow around 1m every year). The thick, evergreen foliage ensures it looks good year-round and can provide effective shade and shelter from the elements, as well as a privacy screen between gardens, a barrier against noise pollution, and a home for wildlife – it’s great for encouraging more birds into your garden. Plant Care & Growing Tips Soil Requirements The Leylandii is a hardy plant and will grow in many types of soil. However, Leylandii plants need a lot of nutrients and will drain your soil dry. In order to compensate, you will need to add a lot of compost or rotted manure, to replace the nutrients – the best times to do this are spring and autumn. Watering Similarly, Leylandii also has a high water requirement, and you should water it regularly with your garden hose whilst it’s growing. Once established, it is more tolerant to periods of drought, however, you should still water it to achieve the best growth. Leylandii does not like waterlogged soil, so make sure the area has good drainage. Full sunlight is preferred, but it will also grow well in partially shaded areas. Planting The best time to plant Leylandii is in spring or summer. Dig a hole twice the size of its root ball system, and place the Leylandii in the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is no more than 1cm below the top of the soil. Add potting soil to the hole to give the plant a nutrient boost, and pack the soil down. Water until it is moist, but not saturated. In order to grow Leylandii as a hedgerow, you should position the young plants approximately 1m apart from each other (and a reasonable distance from any buildings). Keep them well-fed and watered, and within 3–4 years, they should grow into each other and form a hedge. Trim it regularly to keep it under control, and in the desired shape (see more on pruning below). Due to its high nutrient and water needs, it can be difficult to grow other plants around your Leylandii. If you want to do so, you’ll need to choose hardy varieties that can cope with impoverished soil. Some good examples of ground-cover plants that can grow around Leylandii include periwinkle (Vinca minor), bergenia, and Welsh poppies. Habitat & Growing Conditions As the Leylandii is technically native to the UK (being the child of two American trees, but ‘born’ over here), it is tolerant of our seasonal climate, including wind and cold temperatures. It can grow in sunny and partially shaded areas, sheltered or exposed, and will withstand temperatures between -25-30°C. As far as soil goes, Leylandii isn’t too fussy there either and will grow in everything from sandy, clay or chalky soil – as long as it is moist. However, it doesn’t like waterlogged ground, as this can cause root rot, so the soil must have sufficient drainage. It is happy in both acidic and alkaline pHs. Pruning Leylandii Regular pruning of your Leylandii is essential – this is an especially fast-growing plant, and once it grows too tall, it can become very difficult to trim back. Neglected Leylandii can quickly become a source of neighbourly tension! Pruning too much at once can also mean the plant won’t regrow, causing a brown patch, so it’s best to keep on top of it. It’s important to regularly cut back your hedging You should aim to prune your Leylandii twice a year (or more if required), to keep it at the desired shape and height. Aim for a height of around 2m, as this will ensure you can easily maintain it, and keep it looking its best, with even foliage throughout the plant. If your Leylandii grows too tall, it may not be able to get enough nutrients from the surrounding soil, and the lower branches may shed their leaves. It’s also important to note that trimmed old wood will not grow new leaves, so you want to make sure you’re cutting new green shoots, as well as removing any dead branches – and the way to do this is by regular trimming. A good time to prune is in late spring/early summer, and then again in late summer/early autumn. Providing your Leylandii is within your reach, there’s no reason you can’t prune it yourself using pruning shears. Otherwise, you may wish to employ the services of a professional tree surgeon. If you want to significantly cut back or fell a Leylandii that’s near your home, you will probably need to do this in stages (a tree surgeon will be able to advise). Gradual cut back will allow the surrounding soil to adjust to the higher water content as the Leylandii consumes less, and will prevent soil heave, which can cause damage to buildings. Common Problems Leylandii is susceptible to canker disease and blight. Kabatina Shoot Blight One such example is Kabatina shoot blight, a damaging fungal infection which causes foliage to turn brown, and eventually grey, and needles to drop early. If your Leylandii is struck by this, prune the infected branches, apply a copper fungicide, and give it plenty of food and water to enable it to fight the disease. If this doesn’t work, you will have to remove the plant from the hedgerow. Honey Fungus Another fungal infection to watch out for is honey fungus. This deadly fungus spreads underground, and attacks the roots of the Leylandii plant, causing them to die and decay. Symptoms include leaves turning pale and dying, a white layer of fungus in the bark at the base of the plant, and honey-coloured toadstools appearing in the autumn. There is no cure for honey fungus – an infected plant must be removed and destroyed, and a physical barrier created to avoid it spreading to neighbouring plants. Pests Common Leylandii pests include bagworms, scale insects and conifer aphids. Aphids (greenflies) can affect your Leylandii’s growth, sucking its sap and excreting a sticky residue (honeydew), which can make it vulnerable to mould. Signs that your Leylandii is affected include visible bugs, honeydew and distorted leaves. Infestations are usually controlled by natural predators in summer. Neighbourly Disputes The biggest problems faced by Leylandii owners occur as a result of the plant growing too tall and out-of-hand, particularly in residential locations. Leylandii can often cause unwanted shade and needle-dropping in surrounding gardens, leading to disgruntled neighbours and neighbourly disputes.5 If you’re considering planting Leylandii, and you have close neighbours, you should always be considerate. Ensure your hedge is kept well-trimmed, so it doesn’t encroach on your neighbour’s garden, and ideally less than 2m high, so that it doesn’t block out light. If any part of your hedge crosses the boundary into a neighbouring garden, your neighbour has a right to trim back that part.6 If a neighbour believes your Leylandii is damaging or affecting their enjoyment of their property, they can also put in a complaint to the council. How To Stop Leylandii Growing Leylandii is a hardy, fast-growing plant that can quickly grow out-of-hand – un-trimmed trees have been known to reach over 30m tall, and 8m wide. The only real way to stop a Leylandii growing is to kill it, or remove it from your garden. If you need to stop Leylandii by removing it, it would be best to enlist the help of a tree surgeon, who can advise on the best course of action. This may involve cutting the tree down gradually, to allow the surrounding soil time to adjust, and avoid soil heave. The best way you can prevent Leylandii growing too high is by regular pruning. As long as you do this 2-3 times a year, and cut it back enough each time, you shouldn’t need to worry. “As a quick-growing hedge, you can’t ask for better than Leylandii but, unless you want to fall out with your neighbours, be prepared to cut it back several times a year to keep on top of it because if you can’t cut back into the wood, it will have a tendency to increase in size year-by-year,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If you have the space (lots of it) you can let it do its thing and allow it to grow into a specimen tree.” Aim to keep it below 2m tall, so you can easily maintain it – and keep your neighbours happy. References 1. Leyland Cypress (Cupressus x leylandii). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/leyland-cypress/ 2. BBC. (2006, October 23). Ask the gardener: Hedges. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/lancashire/content/articles/2008/01/08/hedges_feature.shtml 3. Taxodium distichum. (2019). The University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=tadi2 4. Types of Leylandii. (2021, September 24). Leylandii.com. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.leylandii.com/types-of-leylandii/ 5. Our least popular export? (2014, September 24). BBC Gardening. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/shropshire/content/articles/2005/06/06/garden_leyland_feature.shtml 6. High hedges – neighbour disputes. (n.d.). Leeds.Gov.uk. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.leeds.gov.uk/planning/high-hedges-neighbour-disputes
Learn more
These Are The Secrets To Growing Bamboo From A Pro Scottish Nursery Owner
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Where To Grow Bamboo How To Grow Bamboo Bamboo Care How Fast Does Bamboo Grow? Common Problems References The simple, cool, almost austere beauty of bamboo is an example of Nature’s own original version of ‘Swedish Design’ – except that bamboo is China through and through. This tree is of enormous cultural significance in China and even other Far Eastern countries. In this guide we share how to grow and care for bamboo plants in British gardens, including some tips from our interview with Kerri Dall, the owner of Scottish Bamboo. “Living in rural Aberdeenshire in Northeast Scotland, we wanted to create a lush, evergreen, jungle-style garden to give us all year-round interest in our garden”, explains Kerri. “However, with a very inclement & temperamental climate and cold winters often reaching -10°C or below on a regular basis, we needed to ensure we were growing exceptionally hardy plants. “We found bamboo to be incredibly hardy, and our 2-acre garden soon became a tropical haven. This started as a garden hobby but we turned our love for bamboo into our business in 2008”. Overview Botanical Name Bambusoideae Common Name(s) Bamboo Plant Type Perennial Native Area Americas, Tropical Africa, Asia Hardiness Rating H6-H7 Foliage Varied shoots, running or clump-forming types Flowers Flowering variable and infrequent When To Sow March, April, May When To Prune March, April The perfectly cylindrical, jointed, cool green shafts of bamboo are instantly recognisable. What is probably not instantly recognisable is that bamboo is a member of the grass family, Poaceae. Yes, bamboo is botanically and taxonomically related to grasses – the grass of your lawn, grasslands, meadows, and savannahs.1 The bamboo sub-family Bambusoideae comprises of three ‘tribes’ and a total of 1,675 species.2 Most species of this evergreen perennial flourish in humid and warm conditions in temperate and tropical climates. However, other species grow in somewhat more extreme climates such as the cold montane regions of the Himalayas and the hot tropical hills of Central America.3 It is a very hardy plant and various species bring an unlikely Far-Eastern touch across much of Europe, including the United Kingdom. This woody grass bears flowers but does so even less frequently than that proverbial blue moon is seen; most species flower once every 60-120 years.4 One cannot predict when a bamboo tree will burst into flower. Bamboo habitat stretches in a band across the world through its temperate and tropical zones. Giant bamboo in the Royal Botanic Gardens, Sri Lanka Each bamboo genus has a particular, preferred habitat which may be of vastly different areas in size. Though it may seem surprising, many clumping and running types of bamboo are hardy to H7 and their root systems and rhizomes can withstand temperatures well below freezing – down to about -30°C. Over the years, various species of bamboo have been introduced in Europe and the United States. Large species whose culms have high tensile strength, for example Guadua angustifolia, are grown on commercial farms for construction purposes. Small species which are visually appealing, e.g. Chusquea culeou ‘Cana Prieta’, are cultivated in nurseries for ornamental uses. Where To Grow Bamboo If you’re looking to grow bamboo in your garden for the first time, Kerri Dall recommends considering the right bamboo for the right place in your garden. “Think about what height you want the bamboo to reach when it is fully grown and choose one which doesn’t grow any larger than what you require. “If you want to grow bamboo as a hedge or a screen, plant the bamboo as small plants, space them around 1m apart and, within 3-5 years, you will have a reasonably established screen”. How To Grow Bamboo Matching bamboo’s ever-increasing popularity, an ever-rising number of suppliers sell quite a number of species of the plant. Nurseries like Scottish Bamboo sell potted bamboo plants as online sellers, specialising in specific bamboo varieties. Online nurseries sell various species of bamboo for different purposes including screening and fencing, planting in large gardens, and for indoor ornamental purposes. You are not limited to acquiring bamboo by way of purchase; bamboo very sportingly propagates from cuttings. Growing From Cuttings Taking cuttings from the many varieties of garden bamboo is fairly straightforward. A cutting can be taken from a plant’s culm as well as from emerging new growth. Autumn is the best season both to prune bamboo and take cuttings as well as to plant cuttings. First, take a clean pair of pruners or loppers. To take cuttings from a culm, choose a mature plant (whose culm is) at least 30cm tall, preferably more. Take a cutting from the top of the culm. The cutting should be about 10cm and include at least one node and at least one internode. It should not be more than one-third the height of the plant, preferably less. Dip the cutting in root hormone liquid and plant it in the appropriate type of soil. You can also take cuttings from new growth that is emerging from the ground: Take a cutting 20-25cm in length, making the cut at a 45-degree angle. Put it in a transparent pot filled with water and let it remain for one to two weeks, while you observe whether and how well the cutting is taking root. Change the water in the pot every alternate day. Assuming the cutting is rooting, prepare a planting pot or an outdoor bed with the type of soil most suited to bamboo and plant the cutting. Growing From Rhizomes Autumn is the best season to grow bamboo from rhizomes, though early spring after the last frost is also a good time. Using a trowel and a spade dig up the soil and expose a rhizome. Using a craft knife or other knife with a sharp edge cut off a piece that has about three growth buds. Clean the dirt and soil off the ends using a soft cloth and water. Plant it horizontally in a pot, buds facing up, under a layer of soil 6-8cm. Sprinkle water using a watering can but only to the extent of making the soil damp all through as overwatering can cause the rhizome cutting to rot. Water it every two days in a similar fashion. Keep the pot in the shade and away from direct or full sun but in a warm place. You may sprinkle a teaspoon of fertiliser with high phosphorous content. After about five weeks, break the pot and transplant the rooting rhizome into the selected spot in your garden. Because the rhizome needs to be protected from sunlight, transplant it well after sunset. Bamboo Care With over 1,400 species divided into three distinct tribes, and with stark differences between species, no single set of care and growing tips can account for all of Bamboodom.5 In the main, bamboos do not require extensive care. Watering Young bamboo plants need to be watered regularly and amply; mature bamboo trees growing in open ground do not need to be watered as frequently. “When first planting bamboo in the garden, the most important care you can give the plant is water. Bamboo plants are quite thirsty for water when first planted, but soon begin to look after themselves when they’re settled in” says Kerri. Potted bamboo needs to be watered more often; in hot or dry weather water it three or four times a week. If your bamboo plant’s leaves curl inward, it is telling you it needs more water. Soil Requirements Grow your potted bamboo in nutrient-rich soil with a pH of between 6 and 7. Bamboo does not tolerate waterlogged conditions so make sure that your soil drains well. As long as your soil has good drainage, over-watering will not cause any harm to your bamboo. Sunlight & Temperature Most species of bamboo prefer more sun than shade so try to ensure that potted bamboos get sufficient sun. If you want to go the extra mile, mist your potted bamboos every other day or keep a humidifier nearby as most bamboos thrive in humid conditions. Applying mulch to your bamboo is dually advantageous if you experience temperature extremes. In hot or dry weather, mulch prevents rapid evaporation of soil moisture. During cold snaps, mulch saves rhizomes and roots from freezing and possibly dying. Fertilising On feeding bamboo, Kerri advises: “Feeding at least once a year in Spring is recommended. “Bamboos love chicken muck or any other type of manure. I’d also recommend feeding every 2 weeks during the summer months, especially if you are trying to establish a screen or hedge with your bamboo”. You could allow dead leaves to remain where they fall; when they decompose they provide a natural mulch to their mother plant. Most species of bamboo are nitrogen-hungry so use some 10-5-5 fertiliser or go for an organic fertiliser consisting of blood meal with composted coffee grounds and vegetable refuse. How Fast Does Bamboo Grow? Bamboo has a well-deserved reputation for being one of the Plant Kingdom’s fastest-growing members. Bamboo growth is neither uniform nor consistent; it is dependent upon a few factors such as species, soil, water and climate. That explained, commonly-grown species in temperate regions can grow up to 9 or 10cm in a single day during the growing season. According to Guinness World Records, bamboo is not just a contender, it is the Plant Kingdom’s undisputed speed champion: unnamed species have been clocked at 91cm of growth in 24 hours (and that too in the United Kingdom).6 That works out to an average growth rate of 3.8cm per hour. In China, it is an annual occurrence for Phyllostachys edulis (‘Moso’) to emerge from the ground every spring and within a few weeks reach a height of up to 75cm. It is large bamboo species’ uniquely fast growth rates that, combined with these species’ great strength and versatility, making them the ‘go-to’ tree for many kinds of building and construction materials. Common Problems Bamboos outside their native habitats and especially those kept indoors are susceptible to diseases and insects. If you spot an insect infestation, use a thick swab dipped in insecticidal soap solution to wash the leaves. Do not apply the soap to the underside of the leaves if the insects are only on the upward side, and do not wash all the leaves on the same day. Increase the airflow and, if the plant is not already under full sun, increase its exposure to the sun. Yellow patches at or near the base of the plant may signal a fungus attack. In gardens and other cultivated settings, incorrect exposure or watering, or improper care may well result in problems. While underwatering can be a cause of concern, its effects can easily be reversed by increasing the amount of water given to the plant. Much more dangerous is overwatering, especially when the soil has poor drainage. This deadly combination can cause the roots and rhizomes to begin to rot. Other problems occur when exposure to the sun is too little or too much for the species in question. Too much sun will cause the leaves to scorch and die, affecting the rest of the plant. (‘Lucky bamboo’ is not, in fact, bamboo and so its well-known problem of rot caused by over-submergence is not discussed here.) How To Get Rid Of Unwanted Bamboo Bamboo has a reputation for becoming unwanted in gardens,” shares Colin Skelly, an expert in all things horticulture. “I’ve removed many over the years, using diggers as well as spades. “The right bamboos in the right place make fantastic and versatile garden plants, but do your homework. “Ideally, see the plant you think you want to grow in a similar setting. “Once planted, if it does look like you may want to revise your thinking and remove it, act before it really gets going.” You can get rid of unwanted bamboo using mechanical methods or chemical processes. We outline a mechanical method by which you can clear your plot of bamboo. First, cut back all the culms to the ground. When the cut-back culms emerge again, wait until they are about 60cm high, then cut them back again. Repeat three times. This repeated cutting will exhaust the plant’s subsoil food reserves so that it is weakened or even dies. Next, water the soil very well to the extent of waterlogging it, and keep it waterlogged. Using a spade, shovel, and hoe as appropriate, dig up the soil and grub out all the rhizomes and root systems you can find. Use a heavy rake to ‘dredge’ the soil of any hard-to-find rhizomes. Finally, pour ample boiling water in the plot to be cleared. When invasive species of running bamboo take over a parcel of land, they can be very difficult to eliminate because of their underground network of rhizomes and root systems. Sometimes the last resort and only resort is to plough up the land. References 1. Yeasmin, L., Ali, M. N., Gantait, S., & Chakraborty, S. (2015). Bamboo: an overview on its genetic diversity and characterization. 3 Biotech, 5(1), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13205-014-0201-5 2. Bamboo Genera. (n.d.). ECHO Community. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.echocommunity.org/en/resources/cf9deeb0-620e-487e-8c43-9fbc9e3b0381 3. Hornaday, F. (2022, May 26). Bamboo in the mountains: Reaching record elevations. Bambu Batu: The House of Bamboo. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from Hornaday, F. (2022, May 26). Bamboo in the mountains: Reaching record elevations. Bambu Batu: The House of Bamboo. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://bambubatu.com/bamboo-in-the-mountains-high-elevations/ 4. Shimbun, S. (2021, June 18). Once in a Century bamboo blossoms observed in western Japan. Kyodo News. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://english.kyodonews.net/news/2021/06/232628087928-once-in-a-century-bamboo-blossoms-observed-in-western-japan.html 5. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2023c, February 9). Bamboo | plant. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/bamboo 6. Fastest growing plant. (n.d.). Guinness World Records. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/fastest-growing-plant
Learn more
Grow Euonymus ‘Spindle’ To Add Structure To Shady Gardens Says Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Euonymus Growing Euonymus As Hedging References Euonymus plants are incredibly popular in the UK and come in a wide variety of colours. Euonymus can be found in countless gardens and parks throughout the UK and its many varieties make it perfect if you’re looking to add some colour and variety to your garden. They are known by several names depending on the country – some common terms for Euonymus plants include Spindle Tree, Strawberry Bush and Wintercreeper. Euonymus comprises a series of flowering plants, of which there are roughly 140 species – some being deciduous and some evergreen.1 Overview Botanical Name Euonymus Common Name(s) Spindle; Strawberry Bush; Wintercreeper Plant Type Shrub / Hedging / Tree Native Area Mostly native to East Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen or deciduous Flowers Small flowers followed by colourful fruits When To Sow March, April, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August According to records from Kew, Euonymus is native to almost all of the Northern Hemisphere, as well as many countries in central and south-east Asia – as far as Queensland in Australia.2 Although Euonymus plants do have some practical uses (Spindle is used to make charcoal and spinning wool, amongst other things) their popularity is mostly a result of their appearance.3 Euonymus plants look great in a variety of settings and their vibrant foliage (available in a range of colours) makes them perfect for any and all gardens. “Whilst not the most fashionable of plants, Euonymous is a valuable garden plant, particularly for creating structure in shady gardens,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Some of the variegated cultivars can be quite slow growing but others, such as E. japonicus, are very quick and make good bulletproof hedges and shelter belt plants.” Habitat & Growing Conditions The habitat and growing conditions of Euonymus will usually vary depending on the species. Spindle, Euonymous europaeus, can usually be found growing on the edge of forests. When it grows in the wild, it provides great value to wildlife, with a range of insects feeding on its leaves, including caterpillars, moths and butterflies.4 As with other species of Euonymus, spindle does well in the shade and typically grows between 3-6m tall, although it can grow higher when allowed to grow into a tree. How To Grow Euonymus One incredibly useful attribute of Euonymus plants is that they do very well in the shade. This makes them easy ‘set and forget’ plants for a shaded garden corner that receives little sunlight. However, if you want the leaves to be at their most vibrant, then it’s a good idea to ensure they get at least some light during the day. E. fortunei ‘Sunspot’ Euonymus plants also require very little watering once they’re established and can even tolerate droughts. Generally, you won’t need to use fertiliser for Euonymus plants. However, if you’re planting them in a container or the soil condition is quite poor, then you can use an all-purpose shrub fertiliser on them. Planting Euonymus can be planted at pretty much any time of the year, providing the soil is in decent condition and not frozen. That being said, there are certain times of the year that are more optimal for planting than others – the best time to plant Euonymus would be early spring or late summer. When it comes to picking the right spot to plant Euonymus, the main thing you want to ensure is that it has adequate space; this will allow for proper air circulation and help to prevent problems from setting in. Make sure you dig a hole that’s roughly twice the size of the root ball and if you want, you can add some fertiliser to the soil when first planting it. You should water it regularly for the first year, but after that it will require very little, if any, watering. Growing Euonymus As Hedging Euonymus plants are very often used for hedging due to their low maintenance and ability to cope in most environments. There are also certain species that grow to be very tall, making them great for privacy and creating shade. Below are some of the best species of Euonymus you can use for hedging. ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ Possibly one of the more obvious choices as a hedging plant. Not only does it look great, with its green and gold leaves, but it also grows at a decent rate without needing too much pruning. Evergreen Spindle Another great Euonymus plant for hedging would be E. japonicus. As we mentioned earlier, the high growth rate makes it perfect for getting a lot of coverage. This plant isn’t just practical though, it also looks great thanks to its yellow and green leaves – while it also sprouts pink fruits in the autumn. ‘Emerald Gaiety’ ‘Emerald Gaiety’ would work very well for hedging too – its compact structure and striking white-tinted leaves make it an excellent alternative to more common types of Euonymus like ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’. References 1. Euonymus. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/euonymus/ 2. Euonymus. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331601-2 3. Spindle (Euonymus europaeus). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/spindle/ 4. Spindle Ermine. (n.d.). Butterfly Conservation. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://butterfly-conservation.org/moths/spindle-ermine
Learn more
14 Reliable Hedging Plants That Are Popular Throughout The Country
IN THIS GUIDE Hedging Varieties Hedges With Thorns 1) Hawthorn 2) Firethorn 3) Holly Hedges With Flowers 4) Pink Ramanus Rose Hedging 5) English Lavender 6) Star Jasmine Deciduous Or Evergreen? 7) Conifers 8) Portugal Laurel 9) Field Maple 10) Purple Beech Hedging Types For Shade 11) Cherry Laurel 12) Box 13) Viburnum tinus 14) Dogwood References Hedges are extremely popular in the UK and can be seen in countless gardens across the country. They come with many benefits, such as improving security, attracting wildlife and beautifying your property. In this guide, we’ll be looking at the different types of hedges available as well as providing you with hedge care & trimming guidelines and some great hedge ideas for your garden. If you’re worried that you don’t have the expertise to create your own hedge, then don’t be. Thanks to modern techniques and equipment, laying a hedge in your garden is a DIY project that you should be able to accomplish in a very reasonable amount of time, depending on the size of your garden. By adding a hedge, or multiple hedges to your garden you can help to attract wildlife while also creating a uniquely beautiful appearance that’s easy to maintain and will last for years.1 Hedging Varieties The red berries of a Pyracantha plant Although there are certain hedge species that are more popular than others, there are actually a good number of hedge plants that each have their own unique properties. Below we’ll take a look at some of the different types of hedges out there, starting with hedges with thorns. Hedges With Thorns Hedge species that have thorns are very popular since they not only look great, but they also provide added protection to a property. Some of the most popular hedges with thorns are: 1) Hawthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Crataegus monogyna HARDINESS RATING: H7 MAX HEIGHT: 4-6M FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SPRING BERRIES: RED BERRIES IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Hawthorn is a very popular hedging plant native to the UK. In spring it produces white, scented flowers that last through to the autumn when they are replaced by haws and the foliage drops to reveal the thorns. 2) Firethorn BOTANICAL NAME: Pyracantha HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 2.5-4M FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SPRING OR SUMMER BERRIES: RED OR ORANGE BERRIES IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Firethorn is another very popular hedging plant. Its prickly branches make it ideal as an intruder deterrent, but it also looks great thanks to the year-round foliage and the mix of red, yellow and orange berries that will help to attract birds to your garden. 3) Holly BOTANICAL NAME: Ilex aquifolium HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SPRING & SUMMER BERRIES: RED BERRIES IN AUTUMN & WINTER FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Although holly is often associated with Christmas, it makes for an excellent hedging plant throughout the year. Holly is an obvious choice for deterring intruders since its prickly leaves are immediately apparent. That’s not the only thing that makes it an excellent choice of hedge though. Its glossy leaves provide a unique look, it’s attractive to wildlife and you can plant it pretty much anywhere and it will thrive. Hedges With Flowers If you want to add some colour to a hedge, then there are some fantastic hedge species with flowers that enable you to do this. These include – 4) Pink Ramanus Rose Hedging Beautiful rose hips in bloom during autumn BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa rugosa ‘Rubra’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 MAX HEIGHT: 1.5M FLOWERS: PINK FLOWERS IN SUMMER & AUTUMN BERRIES: RED BERRIES IN SUMMER & AUTUMN FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS During the summer, this thorny hedge plant produces striking rose-coloured flowers that become large rose hips during the autumn, making it a striking plant throughout the year. It grows at a rate of 20-40cm per year and can prosper in most conditions, whether in sun or shade. If you prefer (depending on your colour preference) you can also get white Ramanus rose hedging. 5) English Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 MAX HEIGHT: 1M FLOWERS: PURPLE FLOWERS IN SUMMER FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Lavender is a very popular selling hedge species and is ideal for low hedging and creating pathways. The foliage of lavender is evergreen, and its distinctive purple flowers are most vibrant during the late spring/early summer. 6) Star Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Trachelospermum jasminoides HARDINESS RATING: H4 MAX HEIGHT: 6-8M FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SUMMER BERRIES: GREEN BERRIES IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Star Jasmine is another very popular plant used for hedging in the UK. It’s extremely versatile and grows year-round making it an ideal choice for a hedging plant. During the summer, it blossoms small star-shaped flowers that have a very distinctive fragrance. It grows very quickly once established. It would be ideal for bordering a lawn or as part of a feature in a garden. Deciduous Or Evergreen? One of the main things you need to decide on when choosing a hedge for your garden is whether you want it to be deciduous or evergreen… As the name would suggest, evergreen hedges grow all year round, which makes them excellent if your primary reason for having them is privacy. Because they grow year-round, evergreen hedges do require more maintenance and you’ll need to trim them at least once a year, ideally twice. Deciduous hedges are also a great choice for hedging but because they lose their leaves during the autumn/winter, they’re not ideal if privacy is your main concern. A big advantage of a deciduous hedge over an evergreen is that they allow wind to filter through much more easily. Anyone who’s lived in the UK for a while knows that high winds are not uncommon during the winter and can cause a lot of damage so having a hedge that can better withstand this is certainly a big bonus. Deciduous hedges also require less pruning and can be renovated more easily if they’re neglected for a while. A couple of great evergreen species for your garden are: 7) Conifers BOTANICAL NAME: VARIOUS HARDINESS RATING: VARIOUS MAX HEIGHT: VARIOUS Conifers are a staple of gardens throughout the UK and come in a variety of sizes and shapes, making them ideal for use in multiple settings. You can get dwarf conifers as potted plants as well as many other species that can be used for hedging, architectural features and ground cover. 8) Portugal Laurel BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus lusitanica HARDINESS RATING: H5 MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SUMMER FRUITS: DARK PURPLE FRUITS IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Portugal Laurel is another popular evergreen choice of hedging. It has small white flowers during summer which give way to small fruits in autumn. It also has good foliage colour throughout the year. Great choices for deciduous hedge plants include: 9) Field Maple BOTANICAL NAME: Acer campestre HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ FLOWERS: GREEN FLOWERS IN SPRING FRUITS: WINGED MAPLE FRUITS IN SUMMER & AUTUMN FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS A compact and dense hedge species – Field Maple provides excellent coverage when planted close together. It also looks particularly impressive during the autumn as its distinctive leaves turn into beautiful shades of red and yellow. 10) Purple Beech BOTANICAL NAME: Fagus sylvatica f. purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ FLOWERS: PURPLE FLOWERS IN SPRING FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS With its impressive deep purple leaves, Purple Beech is an excellent choice of hedging plant if you want to achieve a distinctive look for your garden. Hedging Types For Shade If you want to plant hedges in a shaded area of your garden, then you might be worried that you’ll be limited for choice. The good news is that this simply isn’t the case – there are many species of hedge plants that thrive in the shade. These include: 11) Cherry Laurel BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus laurocerasus HARDINESS RATING: H5 MAX HEIGHT: 6-8M FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SPRING FRUITS: CHERRY RED FRUITS THAT TURN BLACK IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Cherry Laurel is a superb choice of hedging plant for a shaded area. It has striking polished leaves that create excellent coverage and can be planted in either sun or shade – thriving under either condition. 12) Box BOTANICAL NAME: Buxus sempervirens HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 4-8M FLOWERS: YELLOW FLOWERS IN SPRING BERRIES: RED BERRIES IN AUTUMN The box hedge plant is perfect for use in shaded areas and the fact that it’s slow-growing (up to 10cm) per year makes it a low maintenance option while still looking good. “Box is one of my favourite hedges and used to be a reliable hedging and topiary plant in the UK,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It is still sold widely but is increasingly subject to pest and diseases due to a warming climate and new pests and diseases introduced to the UK. Not least of which is Box blight, which has decimated this hedge in many gardens. “If you are going to plant it, make sure there is good airflow and mulch with wood chips to prevent splash back of fungal spores.” 13) Viburnum tinus BOTANICAL NAME: Viburnum tinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 MAX HEIGHT: 3-4M FLOWERS: CREAMY-WHITE AND PINK FLOWERS IN LATE WINTER BERRIES: RED, BLUE OR BLACK BERRIES FOLLOW FLOWERS If you’re looking for a hedging shrub that does well in the shade, then this is one of the very best. It looks great throughout the year and even sprouts an array of white flowers during winter. It also attracts an array of birds thanks to its coloured berries. 14) Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: CORNUS HARDINESS RATING: VARIOUS MAX HEIGHT: VARIOUS If you want an unusual look for your garden, then Dogwood hedging is a great choice. Winter stem dogwood has distinctive orange stems that stand out in any setting. The fact that it grows very well in shade makes it ideal for gardens with little sunlight. References 1. Malins, E. (2019, March 18). Hedges alive with wildlife. London Wildlife Trust. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.wildlondon.org.uk/blog/edwin-malins/hedges-alive-wildlife
Learn more
