Growing
Feeding Tips For Rhododendron: 'Replace The Top 5cm Of Growing Medium Every Winter'
IN THIS GUIDE What Rhododendrons Need To Thrive Feeding Rhododendrons Growing In The Ground Feeding Container-Grown Rhododendrons Rhododendrons are popular flowering shrubs that can thrive in higher rainfall areas – particularly those with acidic soil. They are low-maintenance options if the right growing conditions can be provided and will often require very little care once established. If you are growing rhododendrons in the ground or in containers where you live, you might be wondering when and how to feed your plants to obtain the best results. When it comes to feeding rhododendrons, here are the basic things you need to know: Growing healthy rhododendrons always begins with the formation and protection of healthy soil, which is the foundation of an organic garden. Rhododendrons require a slightly acidic soil or growing medium that is moist but well-drained with plenty of organic matter. When growing in the ground, enrich the area with plenty of organic matter before planting and replenish this mulch each spring. When growing in a container, choose a good-quality loam-based ericaceous compost and replace the top 5cm of growing medium every winter. Feed pot-grown plants in the summer with an organic liquid plant feed. Read on to learn more about fertilising your rhododendron plants. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mulch, ericaceous compost, liquid fertiliser (optional) When To Feed Spring What Rhododendrons Need To Thrive The most important thing to understand when it comes to feeding any plant is where and how the plant accesses the nutrients that it needs to survive and thrive. Rhododendrons, like other plants growing in your garden, take their water and nutrients from the soil or growing medium in which they grow. It is always vital to remember that healthy plants growing in the ground in a garden depend upon the soil, whilst plants growing in containers depend on the growing medium. If the soil in your garden is healthy and the plants that you choose are well-suited to the soil conditions, this is the recipe for success, but remember too that their roots can only access nutrients if there is sufficient moisture. This is just as true when growing rhododendrons as it is when growing a whole range of other plants. To keep a rhododendron happy and healthy, feeding correctly begins with an understanding of the soil type where you live and the soil conditions that these plants require and desire. Rhododendrons will fare best in soil that is acidic, with a pH between 5-6. However, some are more tolerant of neutral or even mildly alkaline conditions. So, to create optimal growing conditions, you definitely need to know the requirements of the specific rhododendron type and variety that you are growing. Most rhododendrons will do best in rich, loamy soil with plenty of organic matter and will require moist yet free-draining soil or growing medium. Feeding Rhododendrons Growing In The Ground When growing rhododendrons in the ground, the first step should always be to think about how you can build healthy soil. Remember, rhododendrons need rich and healthy soil to perform at their best. Before planting out a rhododendron into its growing position in your garden, it is important to make sure that the soil contains plenty of organic matter. Some sources of organic matter that you might consider include well-composted conifer bark or wood chips, leaf mould, decomposing pine needles or composted bracken. Rhododendrons have shallow root systems and their roots should be only just below the surface of the soil. This means that enrichment of the immediate topsoil is most important. Acidic or neutral organic materials should be layered around the plants to a depth of at least 7.5cm after planting, keeping the main stem clear. It is from this mulch and the topsoil below that the plants should derive many of the nutrients that they require. As mulch breaks down slowly over time, the nutrients it contains are dispersed into the soil web, where they can be taken up by plant roots. This mulch should be replenished each year in the spring to provide slow-release fertility, conserve soil moisture, protect the shallow roots and suppress weed growth, as Katrina Clow from the Scottish Rhododendron Society explains: “Scrape off the top layer of compost and refresh in spring, making sure to use ericaceous compost.” Other than ensuring healthy soil and mulching each spring, rhododendrons growing in the ground typically won’t require any additional feeding. However, if growth or performance seems poor, you might also consider adding an organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone in the spring. “If the leaves turn a yellow colour between the veins, which may remain green, this is usually a clear sign of iron deficiency,” says Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “The root cause is often the wrong soil pH, so address this if you can by moving or repotting the plant. “If this is not possible, liquid seaweed with sequestered iron is an example of a fertiliser which can be applied as a foliar feed on a dry, cloudy day by spraying on the leaves at the stated dilution rate.” As long as the soil is healthy, rhododendrons will not typically require this addition. Feeding Container-Grown Rhododendrons If you are growing rhododendrons in containers then they will not be able to uptake the nutrients that they require from the soil. Instead, they will be reliant on the growing medium with which you have chosen to fill your containers. When growing rhododendron in containers, it is best to grow in a loam-based, peat-free growing medium. This can be either one that you purchase or one that you make yourself at home, but whichever option you choose should be slightly acidic. Make sure that the mix you choose is moist yet free-draining and that it does not become too compacted or waterlogged due to poor drainage. Even when you have a top-notch growing medium in your container, it is still best to replenish the top 5cm of the potting mix each winter. Then, every second spring, it is best to repot the rhododendron altogether. If you trim the roots then you can reuse the same container, but make sure that you use fresh potting mix to make sure that the plants get the nutrients they need. It is also a good idea when growing rhododendrons in containers to feed your plant through the summer months with a good quality organic liquid plant feed. Again, remember that this should be a feed suited to ericaceous plants. Keep the above tips in mind and you should find it easy to make sure rhododendrons get the nutrients they need.
Learn more
Fuchsia Society Members Share 20 Types They Love The Most
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Chosen Varieties 1) F. ‘Adinda’ 2) F. ‘Alice Hoffman’ 3) F. ‘Annabel’ 4) F. ‘Dark Eyes’ 5) F. ‘Display’ 6) F. ‘Dollar Princess’ 7) Fuchsia ‘Harry Gray’ 8) F. ‘Howlett’s Hardy’ 9) F. ‘John Ridding’ 10) F. ‘La Campanella’ 11) F. ‘Lady Thumb’ 12) F. ‘Mrs Popple’ 13) F. ‘Pink Galore’ 14) F. ‘Put’s Folly’ 15) F. ‘Riccartonii’ 16) F. ‘Snowcap’ 17) F. ‘Tom West’ 18) F. ‘Tricolor’ 19) F. ‘Whiteknights Pearl’ 20) F. ‘Winston Churchill’ Fuchsias are attractive flowering shrubs that can find a place in many gardens, whether that’s in the ground or growing in pots or hanging baskets. If you are looking for a hardy fuchsia or perhaps seeking a more tender type, there are plenty of fuchsia varieties to choose from. When choosing a fuchsia, one of the first things to think about is the hardiness of the option you are considering and where the plant will grow. Some fuchsias are hardy enough to remain outside in a UK garden year-round, while many others most certainly are not. “Fuchsia magellanica and its varieties and cultivars are the hardiest Fuchsia for the UK,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “In the milder, coastal and urban areas of the UK, they can be grown as hedges and will stand all year round. In colder regions, the stems will be killed back to the ground in winter but will regrow from all but the coldest winter weather (-10°C).” However, you will also probably want to consider other things, such as aesthetics and the colour of the blooms. Expert Chosen Varieties We asked two of the most knowledgeable fuchsia growers in the country, Gail Barber and Terry Sykes, to share their favourite varieties with us. “There are several species of fuchsia that are well worth looking at, including a species called Fuchsia encliandra that has very small leaves and flowers,” shares Gail. “These plants are just as easy to grow as other fuchsias but are also perfect to train around wire shapes or even grow as bonsai. “The tiny flowers, which are often less than 1cm in size, are completely captivating.” F. ‘Hawkshead’ Some of Terry’s favourite favourites include: ‘Hawkshead’ ‘Little Beauty’ ‘Anne Reid’ ‘Lyndon’ ‘Brookwood Belle’ ‘Lillian Anetts’ ‘Cloe Christine’ ‘Cherry Pop’ Clearly, there are a number of wonderful options, but here is a list of some of the most highly regarded ones to help you narrow down your options and select the right fuchsia for you. All of the options below have received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 1) F. ‘Adinda’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This is a semi-evergreen shrub with triphylla-type blooms and a corolla of a rosey hue that blooms in summer and autumn. This is a tender type of fuchsia which can be grown outside in summer and can be good for container cultivation. 2) F. ‘Alice Hoffman’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A hardy, deciduous fuchsia with gently arching stems that carry an abundance of pink and white semi-double flowers throughout the summer and into autumn, this cultivar also has bronze-tinted leaves which add further interest. It grows around 60cm tall and wide, working well in a border or in pots. 3) F. ‘Annabel’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This attractive hardy fuchsia has double blooms with white tubes and sepals that are tinged with pink and white petals which are pink towards the base. The shrub is deciduous and has an upright form, light green foliage and an H4 hardiness rating. It will tend to grow to less than 50cm in height and spread. 4) F. ‘Dark Eyes’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A bushy little shrub standing less than 50cm tall and wide, ‘Dark Eyes’ is another attractive fuchsia to consider. It has single flowers with deep purple petals and deep red sepals and tubes, which are set off to great effect against the dark green foliage. 5) F. ‘Display’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This fuchsia is also a deciduous and hardy option to consider. It has slightly recurved deep pinkish-red sepals, a deep pinkish-red tube and paler pink petals. These pretty blooms look great throughout the summer and into early autumn. 6) F. ‘Dollar Princess’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This is another fuchsia with particularly attractive and vibrant blooms. The flowers on this cultivar are double, with a short tube and broad, recurving sepals. The sepals and tube are a bright crimson red and the petals are purple with red veins towards their bases. 7) Fuchsia ‘Harry Gray’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Relaxed and laid-back, this fuchsia, with its double white flowers that have just a hint of pink veining and trailing red stems, is the height of serenity. It grows to around 60cm in height. However, this option can withstand cold temperatures but not frosts as it only has a hardiness rating of H2. 8) F. ‘Howlett’s Hardy’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This semi-evergreen fuchsia has flowers with red-pink sepals and a deep purple corolla. The pendant flowers have a conspicuous tubular calyx. This is one of the hardier fuchsias, with a hardiness rating of H4. 9) F. ‘John Ridding’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERS: orange and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Also known as ‘Firecracker’, this fuchsia is also semi-evergreen. It has orangey-red triphylla flowers with tubular calyx, which are paler towards the tips. The foliage is also noteworthy, producing greyish-green leaves with creamy edge variegation and purple flushing and veins. This fuchsia can be grown outside in summer only, with a hardiness rating of H1C. 10) F. ‘La Campanella’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink, white and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This little fuchsia grows only around 40cm tall. It has a lax habit and boasts attractive flowers. The sepals are white and tinged with pink, the short tube is white and the petals are purple, lightening over time to a lighter violet hue. Note that this is a more tender fuchsia with a hardiness rating of H2. 11) F. ‘Lady Thumb’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This compact deciduous fuchsia has semi-double flowers. The sepals and tubes of these blooms are vibrant pink and the petals are white with delicate pink veining. These flowers are borne prolifically in summer and into autumn. 12) F. ‘Mrs Popple’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: red and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A popular fuchsia cultivar which can grow up to 1m in height and spread, this option has deep green leaves and single flowers that have bright red sepals and tubes and petals with a purple-violet hue. This is a hardy fuchsia with a hardiness rating of H4. 13) F. ‘Pink Galore’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Semi-evergreen and trailing in form, this fuchsia shrub has pendulous candy-pink flowers with a conspicuous tubular calyx. The pink sepals are slightly green towards the tips. This is a somewhat more tender fuchsia with a hardiness rating of H2. 14) F. ‘Put’s Folly’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This deciduous fuchsia has a trailing or cascading form. The leaves are fairly light green and against these, the single flowers stand out pleasingly. The sepals are white to pale pink and the corollas are a deeper purplish pink. These blooms appear prolifically and remain in flower from summer well into the autumn months. 15) F. ‘Riccartonii’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: red and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 2-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread This medium-sized deciduous shrub fuchsia can grow between 1.5-2.5m in height and 1-1.5m in spread. It has small oval-shaped leaves and flowers with vivid crimson sepals and tubes and purple-violet petals. This is one of the hardiest fuchsias on this list, with a hardiness rating of H6. 16) F. ‘Snowcap’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: red and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing perhaps as much as 1m tall and 0.5m wide, this upright deciduous shrub has quite deep green foliage. The flowers, borne in summer and into autumn, are semi-double. The sepals and tube are scarlet red and the petals are white, with red veining at their bases. 17) F. ‘Tom West’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This fuchsia grows around 50cm tall and wide. It has an upright but lax growth habit and is prized not only for its flowers but for its foliage too. The flowers are single, in shades of red and purple. The leaves are green with cream edges that are sometimes tinged with pink. 18) F. ‘Tricolor’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing up to around 1.5m tall and wide, this fuchsia has small grey-green leaves that are fringed with cream and flushed with pink when young. The slender flowers have red sepals and tubes and purple petals. This fuchsia is a hardy one, with a hardiness rating of H4. 19) F. ‘Whiteknights Pearl’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Around the same size as the option listed above, this fuchsia has a bushy, upright form. The foliage is fairly dark and neat, and the flowers are delicate, with slender white tubes, sepals with a pale pink hue and slightly deeper pink petals. 20) F. ‘Winston Churchill’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: purple and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing to around 60cm tall, this deciduous fuchsia has double flowers. The sepals, which are short and reflexed, are pink and the petals are a deep purple with some pink veining towards the base. These are, of course, far from the only options that you might consider when looking for fuchsias to grow. However, this list should give you a good place to start when looking for the right fuchsia for you.
Learn more
Gail Barber On Fuchsia Propagation In Early Spring: 'It's Easy, Quick And Very Satisfying'
IN THIS GUIDE Taking Hardwood Cuttings From Hardy Fuchsias Taking Softwood Cuttings From Tender Fuchsias Propagating From Seed Fuchsias are beautiful flowering shrubs that many will find make great additions to their gardens. Some are hardy enough to survive outside year-round with no problems in a suitable spot, whilst others are far more tender and will require winter protection. Whatever species, variety or cultivar you are growing, you may well be interested in learning how to propagate your plants to obtain new plants for your garden. Fortunately, fuchsias are pretty easy to propagate via cuttings and can also be grown from seed, though this is more challenging and the seeds won’t necessarily resemble the parent plant. “Taking fuchsia cuttings in early spring is easy, quick and very satisfying,” shares Gail Barber, the Secretary of the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society and Gardening Guild. “By taking several tip cuttings in one pot, covered by a plastic bag to keep in the moisture, they can be placed on a window sill out of direct sunlight and will be rooted in a couple of weeks. “This can be a very efficient way of planting up pots and baskets to make eye-catching summer displays.” The type of fuchsia you are growing will dictate when cuttings are best taken from an existing plant. Whether you choose to grow fuchsias from cuttings or from seed, you should generally have good success rates and find it a relatively simple and straightforward gardening job. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Sharp knife, cutting compost, small pots When To Propagate October to November (hardwood cuttings), year-round (softwood cuttings), spring (from seed) Taking Hardwood Cuttings From Hardy Fuchsias By far the easiest option when it comes to propagating hardy fuchsias growing in your garden is to take hardwood cuttings. You can also take softwood or semi-ripe cuttings of hardy fuchsias, but taking hardwood cuttings generally yields the best results. “Hardwood Fuchsia cuttings are a great place to start with propagation if you are new to it,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “It is one of the easiest plants to root and will prove that plants want to grow, you’ve just got to give them what they need. Luckily, Fucshias don’t need very much, so they are perfect for encouraging the start of your propagation journey!” Hardwood cuttings from hardy fuchsia should be taken in the late autumn, from around mid-October into November. It is best to take stems that are not green and are instead covered in brown bark for protection against rotting that might set in over winter. Cut lengths of the woody stem that are around the length of a pencil. Cut at the base horizontally, just below a pair of leaves, and trim at the top, making a sloping cut so that you can tell the top from the bottom and so that water can run off. Prepare a container (a 15cm pot is ideal) filled with a peat-free cuttings compost or potting mix. Then, place 5 cuttings around the edge of the pot, with around 50% of their length below the surface of the growing medium. Over the winter, keep these cuttings in a location that will reliably remain free from frost and water sparingly – just enough to keep the growing medium just moist. New shoots should emerge from your cuttings in the spring, at which point you can pot up the individual cuttings into their own individual containers. You can then plant out your cuttings in the early summer and they should flower, though perhaps sparsely, during their first season in the ground. Taking Softwood Cuttings From Tender Fuchsias Softwood cuttings can be taken from tender fuchsia at any time of the year, as long as there are lush, green shoots on an existing fuchsia plant. However, it is normal to take softwood cuttings in spring or early summer, when rooting and growth tend to be the fastest. Softwood cuttings will usually root within three weeks or so. You can place them in either water or soil for the rooting process to take place. Place the cuttings around the edge of a pot filled with peat-free, moist yet free-draining cuttings compost or you can consider rooting them in a glass of water. If you choose the second option, you’ll be able to see clearly when roots have formed. Just make sure that the leaves are not underwater or they will decompose. When rooting in water, wait for the roots to grow to around 1-2cm long and then place each of your softwood fuchsia cuttings into its own small (7.5cm) pot filled with peat-free potting mix. Semi-ripe cuttings are also an option. These are cuttings taken from a fuchsia a little later, typically towards the end of summer or in very early autumn. These cuttings should be hard and woody at the base but still soft and green at the top. These can also root well but may not quite be as successful as softwood cuttings. Propagating From Seed We cover how to grow fuchsia from seed in more detail in a different guide, but in short, seeds are collected from an existing fuchsia in autumn, stored over the winter and planted in the spring. They should be sown on the surface of a moist yet free-draining seed-starting compost as they need light to germinate. They germinate best when temperatures of 18°C can be maintained. Though this process is a somewhat more challenging way to obtain new fuchsia plants from an existing one, it could be an interesting option to try if you want to try your own little experiment in plant breeding, as some interesting variations may be created. However, most of the time your best bet is to take cuttings and grow them on into thriving new fuchsia plants for your garden.
Learn more
Fuchsia Plants Are Tailor-Made For Container Growing, But Don't Scrimp On The Pot Size
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Fuchsia In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing Compost Positioning The Container Varieties To Grow Potting Up & Transplanting Ongoing Care For Potted Fuchsia Plants References Fuchsias are a wonderfully varied genus, encompassing plants in very many combinations of plant type, habit, height and spread, hardiness, and foliage type. However, all fuchsias feature complex flowers in the form of coloured bracts that frame an even more vibrant corolla from which conspicuous stamens emerge. However, fuchsias are not easy plants to care for, as most are not hardy, and all are quite sensitive to heat. When growing them indoors, it is the same story. A dry atmosphere and low humidity, cold drafts or lack of sunlight, which is the norm in most homes, tends to hit fuchsias harder than most other plants. Nonetheless, with some TLC you can delight in the brilliant blooms of this sub-tropical flower even if you live in the UK. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Ericaceous potting mix, fuchsia plants, pots or hanging baskets Can You Grow Fuchsia In Pots? Absolutely. In fact, it is preferable for British gardeners to grow fuchsia in pots. Doing so offers a lot of flexibility in caring for this plant, which is so sensitive to weather fluctuations and extremes. Also, the trailing types of fuchsias are verily tailor-made for hanging baskets – a brilliant adornment for a sunlit corner in the living room. “Fuchsias growing in pots are particularly useful, as they can be placed into borders when other plants have finished their display for the year,” shares Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society & Gardening Guild. “In fact, I grow most of my fuchsias in pots, as this enables me to keep colour and interest in key areas of my garden throughout the season.” Choosing A Container Bushy and upright fuchsias are best planted in a traditional half-conical or half-pyramid pot whilst trailing and mat-forming types in hanging baskets will be a treat for tired eyes. As fuchsias require excellent drainage, any container must have drainage holes. Pots should be made of terracotta. Bushy and upright fuchsias range in height from 0.4m to 3m, so the pot size will be determined by the height of the plant. Fuchsias are fast-growing plants and also absorb a lot of soil nutrients, so I’d suggest that, given your particular plant’s size, the size of the pot be one size greater. “Don’t scrimp on the pot size as Fuchsias grow fast and look best when flowering in profusion,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Upright cultivars create both height and volume and mat-forming cultivars also tend to create a spilling effect due to the pendant nature of their flowers.” As for trailing and mat-forming varieties, a regulation 30cm hanging basket will accommodate 5-6 fuchsia plants. A rattan or cane hanging basket should be the preferred choice. Choosing Compost Fuchsias thrive in rich, fertile and moist but free-draining soil. A multi-purpose potting soil from a reputable manufacturer will be very suitable. Where fuchsias are concerned, there can be no compromise on drainage, so start with a bottom layer of pebbles and grit and amend then the compost with perlite, grit and sand. You can also make your own soil. Mix well-rotted manure, organic compost and a little moss in a 1:2 ratio with sandy, chalky loam. Amend as above to achieve excellent drainage. The best soil pH for fuchsias is in the acidic range. Positioning The Container A sheltered spot that has an aspect other than northern and gets morning sunlight is ideal. Otherwise, filtered or dappled afternoon sunlight will work out well. If the plant is kept indoors, a normal room temperature between 14-22°C will suit it very well. However, most homes are not sufficiently humid for fuchsias, so indoor plants should be misted every two or three days. It should be a fine mist and should be carried out before noon. A potted fuchsia should not be exposed to cold drafts, high heat or dry weather. Even though it certainly won’t curl up and die if subject to these adverse conditions for a short time, its growth will suffer, flowering will be reduced and it may well wilt. A mild climate, gentle light and humidity are the conditions in which fuchsias flourish. Varieties To Grow For a plant that is not easy to care for in the UK, it surely comes as something of a surprise that upwards of 50 fuchsia varieties have been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit.1 The following varieties are not only AGM winners, they are hardy to H4 and are very readily sourced: ‘Snowcap’ ‘Princess Dollar’ ‘Mrs. Popple’ ‘Hawkshead’ ‘Genii’ ‘Tom Thumb’ ‘Lady Boothby’ Potting Up & Transplanting Fuchsias are fast-growing plants and they are also heavy feeders, so it would be a good idea to pot up the plant every year. Choose a pot that is two sizes up unless you plan to keep the plant to a tidy size by methodically pruning it. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? You should plant one upright or bushy fuchsia per pot. You could, of course, put multiple plants in a planter, but I would not recommend this, as the shape and form of fuchsias mean that the aesthetics will be negatively impacted if they are housed in a planter. The number of trailing or mat-forming varieties you can plant per hanging basket depends on both the spread of the varieties and the size of the basket. Ongoing Care For Potted Fuchsia Plants “Plants growing in pots are reliant on you for food and water, so getting into a regular habit will pay dividends,” says Gail. Be sure to water your fuchsia plant religiously during the growing season. All through this period the soil should not be allowed to dry out and stay dry. As for the flowering season and during hot weather, the soil should be kept continuously moist and you may even need to water daily. However, the soil must never be soggy. During the active season, feed these plants monthly with a liquid formulation or an organic fertiliser. A balanced formula during spring and a high-potash formula during the flowering season would be ideal. I suggest that you dilute the fertiliser to about 75% of the strength recommended by the manufacturer. Pour the liquid near the edges of the container and then water it in. To maximise flowering, be sure to prune your fuchsias. These plants positively erupt with blooms when pruned and to top it off, pruning fuchsias is a very simple task. Be aware that fuchsias are very susceptible to various pests including aphids, mites and weevils. Fortunately, these pests can be treated with biological (predators) and organic controls. References 1. AGM Plants April 2023. (2023). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf
Learn more
Fuchsia Growers' 7 Tips For Growing Vertically With Hanging Baskets
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Select Varieties With A Trailing Habit 2) Choose A Basket With Ample Room 3) Line Your Hanging Container To Retain Moisture 4) Choose A Free-Draining Growing Medium 5) Plant Up In Springtime 6) Place Your Hanging Basket In Sheltered Sunlight 7) Get Your Watering & Feeding Right References Fuchsias are attractive flowering shrubs that vary greatly in hardiness. There are hardy fuchsias that can grow outside year-round and more tender types that will need to be overwintered indoors or under cover. These attractive plants are much admired for their charming, dangling, bell-shaped flowers that can last all summer long and come in a range of hues. They mostly come from South and Central America.1 Interestingly, the flowers and the berries are edible too, so these are potentially productive and useful plants as well as just ornamental ones.2 Fuchsias can be grown in the ground or in containers and with tender types in particular, the latter is the better option. However, you might be wondering whether you can use specific types of containers and whether you can grow fuchsias in hanging baskets. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Hanging container, fuchsia plant(s), potting compost, fertiliser, hand trowel, watering can Fuchsias can indeed be grown in hanging baskets, though some varieties are better suited to cultivation in this type of container than others. These are very versatile plants and there are varieties that have a number of different growth habits and vary dramatically in size and spread. Growing fuchsias in hanging baskets can allow you to take advantage of their long-lasting floral displays to brighten up a wall or fence. Using hanging baskets and other hanging containers can be beneficial because it can allow you to think vertically and make the most of every inch of space. Using hanging baskets and adopting other vertical gardening strategies can be especially important where space is at a premium in small gardens or in undercover growing areas, like polytunnels or greenhouses. In any garden, fuchsias in hanging baskets can elevate your garden and really make it look great throughout the summer season. 1) Select Varieties With A Trailing Habit When choosing which Fuchsias to grow in a hanging basket, the first thing to work out is whether you are interested in growing a hardy type that will remain in your garden over a number of years or whether you are opting for a more tender cultivar. If you opt for the latter, you will also have to decide whether you will overwinter your tender fuchsia and where you will if you do wish to do so. If you do not want to overwinter tender fuchsias, you may simply grow them as annuals and discard them at the end of the summer season. “As many varieties of fuchsias have a wonderful pendular growth habit, I try to find as many places for hanging baskets and pots as I can,” shares Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society and Gardening Guild. “Wall baskets mounted on the garden fence also help to give the side of the house some colour and interest.” As Gail points out, the very best fuchsias to grow in hanging baskets are those which have a trailing habit. F. ‘Bella Evita’ Some fuchsias trail, some are climbers, while others have a more upright, bushy form. So, as well as understanding whether the fuchsias you are looking at are hardy or tender, you will also need to understand their growth habit and form. Some Fuchsia varieties that work well for hanging baskets include: ‘Bella Evita’ ‘Eruption’ ‘Swingtime’ 2) Choose A Basket With Ample Room When choosing a hanging basket for fuchsias, be sure to think about the size and growth habit of the particular fuchsia that you have chosen to grow. Also, consider whether you will grow fuchsias in a basket on their own or alongside other flowers suited to hanging basket cultivation. I personally always like to consider sustainability and try to make an eco-friendly choice whenever I choose any new container. Avoiding buying a new hanging basket and making your own using natural or reclaimed materials will be the most eco-friendly and sustainable option of all. 3) Line Your Hanging Container To Retain Moisture Depending on the type of hanging basket you have chosen, it might need to be lined. To keep fuchsias happy, choose a liner that will help retain moisture without causing waterlogged conditions. Getting this balance right when it comes to moisture retention and drainage is the key to successfully growing fuchsias in hanging baskets. 4) Choose A Free-Draining Growing Medium Fuchsias are not particularly fussy when it comes to their growing medium, but they do need a potting mix that will remain moist and yet be free-draining and well-aerated. For environmental reasons, it is always important to avoid a peat-based potting mix or compost. Instead, either purchase or make a peat-free potting mix to fill your hanging baskets. 5) Plant Up In Springtime Fuchsias are typically planted into hanging baskets where they are to grow in April or May. Fuchsias can look great in hanging baskets on their own or in mixed displays with other flowering plants suited to summer container growing. Plant up fuchsias in hanging baskets, making sure that they sit at the same level in the growing medium as they did in their previous pots. Water them in well after planting. 6) Place Your Hanging Basket In Sheltered Sunlight A hanging basket with fuchsias in it should be located in a sunny spot or in light shade, but the location should always be a sheltered one. A sheltered spot is best for all fuchsias and will be especially important if you have opted to grow more tender fuchsias in your hanging basket. Make sure that you do not position fuchsias in too shady a spot or too exposed a location and avoid any frost pockets where winter lingers. 7) Get Your Watering & Feeding Right Caring for fuchsias in hanging baskets is relatively easy and straightforward, but you do need to remember that fuchsias growing in hanging baskets will typically need to be watered more frequently than those growing in the ground. “When growing Fuchsias in containers, it is important to get the watering and feeding right to bring out the best in your plants,” shares Terry Sykes, a member of the West Yorkshire Fuchsia and Pot Plant Society. “Too much water and you might drown the roots, too little and your fuchsia could shrivel up and die.” Water your fuchsias to maintain moisture in dry conditions, taking care not to overwater and making sure that excess water can always drain away freely. When growing these plants, it is crucial to maintain good drainage at all times and not to let waterlogged conditions arise. Fuchsias grown in hanging baskets will also require regular feeding during the summer for best results. Feed when watering every couple of weeks with an organic liquid plant feed that is rich in potassium, like comfrey tea, throughout the summer months. “Because of the restricted root area, it is essential to regularly feed your hanging baskets to maintain adequate nutrition is available,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If this is neglected, the nutrients in the compost will quickly be exhausted and growth and flowering will be impacted.” This should promote good flowering and keep the plants healthy and happy. “To prolong the flowering period, keep feeding and disbud constantly,” says Terry. Deadheading throughout the summer will help to keep your fuchsias blooming well, though dead flowers should usually fall off on their own, so you might not need to give them too much attention. Prune hardy types in spring and pinch out the shoots of young, tender fuchsia to create bushier and more floriferous plants. Overwinter tender types indoors or in a cool, frost-free location. To keep them alive during the dormant season, cut them back to around half their height and size, reduce watering, and re-pot or replenish the growing medium in your hanging basket and place it outside once more in spring. References 1. Fuchsia | San Diego Zoo Animals & Plants. (n.d.-b). https://animals.sandiegozoo.org/plants/fuchsia 2. Fuchsia magellanica. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved April 12, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Fuchsia+magellanica
Learn more
Tender Fuchsia (H1-H3 Rated) Will Need Overwintering: Follow These 6 Steps
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Grow Tender Varieties In Containers 2) Bring The Pot-Grown Fuchsias Indoors 3) Cut Back The Plant 4) Tuck The Plant Away In A Suitable Spot 5) Maintain Throughout The Winter Fabulous fuchsias come in more sizes, shapes and everything else than you can shake a stick at. That ‘everything else’ includes hardiness ratings, as varieties range in hardiness all the way from H1 to H6. Fuchsias are perennials, whether they are deciduous or semi-evergreen, so you’ll want to keep that lovely plant well-nursed during the winter so you can enjoy the riotous medley of colour it will display as early as spring. Although fuchsias need climatic conditions to be in their own comfort zone more than most flowering plants, overwintering them to keep them in that zone is a fairly straightforward process, as indicated by the following steps: Grow tender varieties (H1-H3 rated fuchsia) in containers. Bring the containers indoors when temperatures drop (at least before the first frost). Cut back the plant to its main stems. Tuck the plant away in the right spot. Maintain these conditions during winter, watering irregularly to keep the roots moist but not waterlogged. Move outdoors following the last frost. The entire process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves and secateurs 1) Grow Tender Varieties In Containers Avoid planting H1-H3 fuchsia varieties in open ground in the UK, as you will most likely lose them in the winter if you do so. Of course, if you have a conservatory then you’re all set. Grow these varieties in containers, including hanging baskets. 2) Bring The Pot-Grown Fuchsias Indoors After the blooming season has ended and before the first frost, shift your fuchsia container indoors. This should be done gradually in the process of reverse hardening. Bring the container indoors for a couple of hours for one or two days, then for several hours for one or two days, and so on. This does not need to be an extended process; four or five times is quite enough. Initially, place the container on or by a window where it will get some morning sunlight or filtered sunlight in the afternoon. 3) Cut Back The Plant This step should be taken only if you do not intend to prune in spring. If you have a standard fuchsia, be it a mini standard, full standard or anything in between, cut it back to just leave 8-16cm of the main stem. If you have a more typical multi-stemmed plant in a pot or hanging basket, trim it so that all the stems are between 8-16cm from the soil. Not only will the plants produce fresh growth from the trimmed stems in spring, but this step will also assist the plants in transitioning to dormancy for the winter. Do not prune the plants again in spring. 4) Tuck The Plant Away In A Suitable Spot Place the container somewhere that is cool and dark and well-ventilated. A shed or basement with a window or ventilator should work well. The temperature should stay between 5-8°C. “I keep my fuchsias over winter in a cold greenhouse which suffices for most of the winter,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “When temperatures drop towards freezing, I lay horticultural fleece over the fuchsias to prevent frost damage, adding an extra layer of fleece in very cold weather.” Be sure that the room is not overly dry and an unheated room is preferable, so long as the temperature is in the aforementioned range. 5) Maintain Throughout The Winter The plant needs to be watered but in moderation and infrequently. The aim is that the roots stay hydrated and do not dry out. A moisture meter will be helpful or you can try pushing a finger into the soil to give you an excellent indication as to whether it is time to water. Typically, watering every fortnight should suffice. The volume of water should be just enough to make the soil moist all through. In spring, the plant should be relocated to a spot where it gets filtered or indirect sunlight in the morning. As soon as you see fresh growth emerging, gradually increase the frequency of watering and the volume of water. After the last frost, the plant may be shifted outdoors, though it should be hardened off gradually.
Learn more
Fuchsia Responds Magically To Pruning, But Only If Done Correctly - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Deadheading Fuchsias The Initial Pruning Steps For All Types Pruning Bushy & Upright Varieties Trailing & Mat-Forming Types Ongoing Maintenance Pruning References Why not be smart and maximise the unique style of a fuchsia plant by pruning it? After all, it numbers among those plants that respond magically to pruning. This is partly because a fuchsia blooms on fresh growth and fresh growth is stimulated by pruning. So, if you devote some time to this gardening activity, you’ll get to see more of those intoxicating blooms in those amazingly vibrant two-toned oranges, reds and purples. Pruning fuchsias is not a drawn-out or complicated process to be undertaken once a year. Instead, it is a fairly simple upkeep task that is performed in phases throughout the year. I explain the different pruning tasks under suitable headings below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs When To Prune Depends on the pruning job Deadheading Fuchsias This simple task can be performed throughout the flowering season. “Like many plants, removing dead flowers and stopping the plant from setting seed will increase the number of blooms and extend the flowering period,” says Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society and Gardening Guild. However, fuchsia flowers develop into berries that look halfway between black cherries and grapes. These berries are not only edible but are quite tasty, having been enjoyed in South America for centuries.1 If you’re not interested in the berries and want to keep the flowers coming, then deadhead. As soon as flowers are withered, snip the stalk right where it joins the stem. Deadhead an entire cluster of withered and withering blooms by trimming the terminal part of the mother stem itself. Make the cut just above the outermost set of leaves nearest the faded blooms. The Initial Pruning Steps For All Types If you have grown a Fuchsia from scratch or bought a small potted specimen, allow it to grow for four to five months so the plant can become bushy, then start to pinch out the growing tips. You can also snip them just above the uppermost node. Do so every three or four weeks until a sufficient number of new shoots develop. “If you live in a mild area, you may cut back a little more,” shares Terry Sykes, a member of the West Yorkshire Fuchsia and Pot Plant Society. “Cover the crown over with spent compost to protect the roots after pruning. “When signs of new growth appear in spring, cut back to green buds fairly low down to help give a nice shape.” Pruning Bushy & Upright Varieties Prune crossing and straggly branches. Other than that, you may trim all the stems, shaping the plant however you please. In general, an even and compact shape should be the target, unless you are growing a lollipop-style plant. “A lollipop shape on a clear stem is known as a standard,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is achieved by allowing a main stem to develop and pruning outside stems. “When the main stem gets to the desired height, prune the tip and allow the side shoots to form the desired lollipop (or other shape) by shaping side shoots at the top of the stem and continuing to remove side shoots lower down.” The length of the trimmed stems should be at least 10cm from the soil. Trailing & Mat-Forming Types Prune mature plants in late winter to early spring just as the plant is about to wake up. Prune the outer stems or trim them severely. They should not be protruding past the container’s rim. Then, trim the central stems to 10cm from the soil. Ongoing Maintenance Pruning You may have neglected to prune your fuchsias in spring or perhaps they have grown too vigorously. “I planted ‘Mrs Popple’, a wonderfully vigorous grower, by my front door about 30 years ago,” shares Gail. “It puts on an amazing display of flowers every summer, flowering through to the first frosts, but I have to constantly cut it back throughout the year as its growth blocks the front door!” In any case, fuchsias are quite amenable to a midseason trim and their reaction will be most pleasant, with fresh growth and renewed blooming. At any time from summer to mid-autumn, you can cut back all types by about a half of their original lengths. The bushy head may be trimmed by up to one-third. References 1. The Inca and the Fuchsia. (2020, June 20). The Fuchsietum | a Garden in Portland. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://fuchsietum.com/blog/files/Inca-and-the-fuchsia.php
Learn more
Cutting Back Box (Buxus): Establishment, Maintenance And Renovation Pruning Explained
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Box Establishment Pruning On Young Buxus Maintenance Pruning For Mature Box Renovation Pruning Box is popular for hedging and topiary forms in the UK and can be a versatile plant to use in a garden. However, while this plant is well suited to many of our gardens, it is also susceptible to a range of problems, including box blight and box caterpillars. The problems to which it is prone make it especially important to keep box as healthy as possible and to make sure we do everything we should with every element of its care. A healthy box is less likely to succumb to any problems and more likely to withstand any issues that do arise when growing this plant in a garden. Pruning is one of the things that we all need to make sure that we get right when it comes to growing these plants in our gardens. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or pruning shears, gardening gloves When To Prune Varies When To Prune Box When you should prune box very much depends on the age of the Buxus plant in question and on the aims of the pruning. There are three main types of pruning that you might think about if you are pruning box. The first of these is establishment pruning on young box plants, which is usually carried out in May, with perhaps some further work between then and September. The second is maintenance pruning to maintain the shape and form of box that has become established in the garden. This maintenance pruning is best carried out in August or September. The final type of pruning is renovation pruning on an older specimen or hedge that has become neglected. Hard pruning for renovation is usually carried out in May. Establishment Pruning On Young Buxus The goal of establishment pruning for young box trees is to encourage bushy growth and fill out the form of the hedge or topiary that we desire. First of all, when the box plants are young, the stems should be cut back by one-third of their length in May to encourage them to bush out. Potentially, further trimming might also be undertaken on these young plants between May and August in order to shape and train box to its desired shape, size and form. “Traditionally, Buxus is trimmed throughout the summer to maintain a tight neat, clipped appearance,” explains Bill Irving from Boxtrees Nursery. “However, we recommend minimal trimming in late summer when growth has slowed, as we have found this reduces the risk of box blight. “Looser-grown Buxus seems much less susceptible to pests and diseases.” Darren Lerigo from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society agrees with this method, especially when pruning for hedging: “Cut less often, once a year is fine, and get your timings right, pruning in September,” he says. “The second flush of growth will have finished at this time, so what you prune will stay looking pristine all through the winter, leaving you with a clean, clipped look for 6 months.” Maintenance Pruning For Mature Box Mature box plants are best trimmed to keep them in shape in the late summer. It is best to do so then, as by this stage the new shoots should have hardened off and growth should have slowed. The reason that it is best to avoid trimming mature box earlier is that if you do so, this creates a flush of soft growth that can be vulnerable to damage from drying winds, leaf scorch, hot sun and diseases like box blight. Pruning in August or September also helps to ensure that the hedge or topiary form continues to look neat and tidy during the winter months. Hedges are often trimmed freehand to maintain their shape. Topiary forms may sometimes have a guide framework to follow, though are also sometimes simply trimmed using a freehand approach. Taking your time and having an aesthetic eye is crucial when pruning to maintain a very neat form when growing box. This is a plant that lends itself to formality, though it can also be allowed to grow in a far more loose and natural form. “When pruning, go over hedges a few times, not just once,” Darren adds. “Box has a frustrating habit of folding the leaves down as you clip, flicking an uncut leaf back up into the air, ruining the outline of the shape you are trying to make, so go over it around 3-4 times. “This is extra work, but the hedge then looks amazing and draws the eye. “Remember, if you prune a boxwood hard it grows back, meaning that you can reinvent your garden regularly.” Bill also has some tips on what form to prune your box shrub into to help prevent and reduce the risk of box blight. “With these hedges, it is good practice to form a ‘batter’. “This is a tapered outline with the base as the widest point and allows light into the bottom of the hedge.” Renovation Pruning If a box hedge or topiary has become old, neglected and left unpruned over a period of time, it may have become weak, straggly and patchy and need more extensive pruning to put things right. Box can fortunately respond quite well to being cut back hard in the late spring. Potentially, you can cut the box back to within 15cm so that new growth will emerge and the plant can recover. This strategy is drastic and a little risky, but it can often have favourable results. After any pruning, it is a good idea to replenish the mulch around the base of the box by adding plenty of organic matter that will help to keep the box well-fed as well as offer it and the soil in which it grows some protection. “Mulching with wood chips or fine bark can be a good way to try to prevent box blight,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It provides organic matter and retains moisture, which promotes plant health. It also limits splash back onto lower leaves from the soil level, limiting the opportunity for blight spores to splash back onto foliage and spread.” As you can tell from the above, pruning Buxus is not really complicated, as long as you keep in mind the age of the box and what you are trying to achieve.
Learn more
Feeding And Mulching Box: Here's How To Keep Your Buxus Plants Healthy
IN THIS GUIDE Soil Requirements For Box Trees Providing The Right Mulch For Buxus Feeding Box Grown In Containers Buxus, or box as it is commonly known, is often used for topiary and hedging. This evergreen is neat and dense year-round and looks lovely when clipped into more formal forms or when left to grow more naturally. Unfortunately, this shrub can be prone to a number of pest and disease issues, so it is important to make sure that box is kept in good condition, as healthy plants are able to better withstand any issues that come their way. It is therefore important to ensure that our box trees get the nutrients they need to stay healthy; feeding Buxus well can help with this. When it comes to feeding box, here are the key things to remember: Box takes its nutrients from the soil in which it grows, so ensuring that the soil is healthy is the foundation of any good feeding regime. Mulch each spring with a thick mulch of well-rotted organic material such as homemade compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure. Feed box growing in containers with a balanced, organic, liquid plant feed once a month through the summer season, avoiding excessively high nitrogen feeds. We address each of these key factors below, with advice from our expert contributors. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mulch (such as leaf mould or well-rotted manure), liquid plant feed, a healthy soil When To Feed Spring or after pruning Soil Requirements For Box Trees Whenever we are thinking about feeding any plants, we always need to remember the fundamentals. Everything comes back to the soil since, of course, it is through that medium that the roots of the plant can obtain the nutrients they need. Therefore, the first step when feeding a box tree is to think about where you are growing it and whether the soil or growing medium in that location is optimal for the health of the variety you are growing. To learn the answer to this question, you also need to understand the soil requirements for box and what it needs to remain as happy and healthy as possible. Buxus needs soil that is moist yet free-draining or free-draining. These shrubs cannot tolerate remaining in a waterlogged situation and this is one of the most important factors in determining where they will grow well. Box shrubs thrive when in neutral to very mildly acidic soil, though they can be tolerant of a range of pH levels and can be grown successfully in many different soils. “The optimum soil pH should be 6.8-7.5,” shares Darren Lerigo, a Topiary Artist from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society. “The soil should also let the plants absorb nutrients easily and be free-draining so that the plant’s roots aren’t sitting in moist soil for too long. “If plants are in the ground and nutrients are required, apply a balanced fertiliser in the autumn to allow take up through the roots during the winter which will give natural growth in the spring. “Plants in pots will need regular low-level nutrients to replace those washed out due to watering: a liquid seaweed feed works well.” Before planting box in your garden, it is important to make sure you have amended the soil with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage and soil structure. This is especially important when the soil is a heavier one with poor drainage, but adding organic matter is always a good idea to improve the health of box plants and to make sure that they get the nutrients they need. Providing The Right Mulch For Buxus You should not only add plenty of organic matter to the planting area, but you should also replenish the mulch around box each spring in order to maintain soil health and keep your box growing strong, as Bill Irving from Boxtrees Nursery Ltd explains: “You should always water during dry spells and mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.” In addition to this annual mulching, it is also a good idea to add more organic matter around your box whenever it is pruned or when work due to illness or pests has been undertaken. Mulch adds nutrients to the soil as it breaks down that can be taken up by the roots of your plants. It also creates something of a barrier between the lowest leaves on your box and the soil, which may help to reduce the spread of problems like blight. Mulch also helps conserve soil moisture in dry conditions and can suppress weed growth to a degree. There are a number of different types of mulch that you might use around Buxus, including homemade compost, leaf mould and well-rotted manure. “For mulching Box, I use wood chip,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This breaks down to provide organic matter, conserves soil moisture and prevents the spread of fungal spores from water splash.” All of these choices offer a good nutritional profile and slow-release fertiliser for these plants. Keep in mind that feeding box trees too much, especially with high-nitrogen feeds, can be detrimental. An organic approach is always best and you may not need to do any more than mulching when growing box trees in the ground. If growth is poor, you can feed with an organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone in spring – however, this is often unnecessary and organic mulch will be sufficient to keep plants healthy and well-fed, provided your box is growing in reasonably healthy soil. Feeding Box Grown In Containers Box trees growing in containers require feeding a little more frequently and are fed differently from those growing in the ground. Of course, as with growing box trees in the ground, the growing medium should be your first concern. When growing Buxus in containers, a peat-free medium should be used. Remember, like good soil for box, a good potting mix should be moist yet free-draining and should contain a reasonable proportion of organic matter, making it reasonably rich and fertile in its composition. In addition to ensuring a good potting mix, which should be replenished regularly, box growing in containers is also best fed with a liquid plant feed every month or so during the summer. Make sure you use a fairly gentle feed that is not too high in nitrogen. A good quality compost tea may be ideal. As you can see from the above, feeding box trees is a simple process that differs when growing in the ground compared with container cultivation. It is easy to choose organic options for mulch and other feeds when growing these evergreen shrubs in your garden.
Learn more
