Growing
Caterpillars On Your Roses? This Is How To Deal With Rose Sawfly Effectively
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Sawfly? Large Rose Sawfly Identifying Large Rose Sawfly Leaf-Rolling Sawfly Identifying Leaf-Rolling Sawfly Rose Slugworm Sawfly Identifying Rose Slugworm Sawfly Infestation Solutions 1) Live & Let Live 2) Embrace Natural Predation 3) Remove Larvae By Hand 4) Organic Pesticides References If you see caterpillars on your roses, and some damage to your plants, sawfly species could be the culprits. Read on to learn more about the sawfly larvae you may encounter on roses in the UK, and how to deal with them if you find some in your garden. What Is Sawfly? Sawflies are insects in the Hymenoptera genus (the same group as bees, wasps and ants).1 The adults are winged insects that look like flies, and they have caterpillar-like larvae which feed on the leaves of plants – including wild and cultivated roses.2 There are several different types of sawflies that you may see the caterpillars or larval forms of on your roses.3 Large Rose Sawfly One of the sawfly types which can attack roses in the UK is the large rose sawfly. There are actually two species of large rose sawfly in the UK – Arge pagana and Arge ochropus.4 The former species is more common – the caterpillar-like larvae of these species can cause extensive leaf loss in early and late summer. Identifying Large Rose Sawfly You may see female sawflies dangling from stems by their egg-laying organs. The larvae hatch in groups between May and October, and feed together. Many leaves where they eat will be destroyed entirely. Leaf-Rolling Sawfly Another species of sawfly is the Rose leaf-rolling sawfly, Blennocampa phyllocolpa. This species inserts eggs into leaflets on rose bushes in spring and when doing so, secretes chemicals that cause the leaves to tightly roll-up.5 Identifying Leaf-Rolling Sawfly The damage done by these sawfly on rose bushes is distinguished by the tightly curled leaves. As mentioned above, this is caused by chemicals excreted when the females lay their eggs. The leaf rolling will usually occur between late April and early June. The larvae feed inside the rolled leaves, which can remain on the plant throughout the summer months. The larvae will go down into the soil in late June/July to overwinter and pupate in the spring. Rose Slugworm Sawfly Another species of sawfly that can cause issues for roses in your garden is the slug sawfly, or slugworm: Endelomyia aethiops. The larvae of this species nibble away the surface of leaves until all that is left of each leaf is the epidermis. Identifying Rose Slugworm This species does not cause defoliation. Rather, you will see ‘window-paning’ where the leaves have been eaten down to the epidermis and damaged areas turn white or pale brown. Larvae hatch as small, black slug-like creatures and develop into pale yellow-green larvae with light brown heads. The bodies are see-through and you can often see gut contents as a dark green line down the body. There are two or sometimes three generations each year, between June and October, though the worst damage is usually apparent in July and August. If you’re experiencing issues with your rose plants that don’t match the symptoms above, you should also check for rose black spot. Sawfly Infestation Solutions Though sawfly can damage the foliage on your rose bushes, it is important to note that if your roses are otherwise healthy and in good condition, they should be able to stand some damage or defoliation. Sawfly will therefore rarely kill your roses unless they appear in dramatic numbers. Keep your roses as healthy as possible, with healthy soil, companion planting, good watering where needed, and a pruning regime appropriate to the type of rose you are growing. Growing healthy plants is always the first step in effective organic pest control. Some good companion plants for roses include Foxgloves, Erysimum, Alliums, Salvias, Nepetas, Hyssop, Lavender… to name but a few. It is always best for pest control and biodiversity to grow roses among and alongside other plants in mixed polycultures, rather than on their own in dedicated beds. 1) Live & Let Live If you only have a light infestation, even of the large rose sawflies which cause the most extensive damage, you can simply tolerate them. Often, in an organic garden, it is best to take a live and let live approach. While sawflies can be horticultural pests, it is important to remember that like all native wildlife, they play an important role in the ecosystem. “The practice of tolerating damage to plants as necessary to supporting garden ecosystems is now mainstream,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I recently saw a leaf-rolling sawfly on several roses at an RHS garden and signage let visitors know that this was being accepted rather than treated, as roses are habitat in a garden food web.” The adult sawflies are pollinators, feeding on pollen and nectar amongst other things. And sawflies and their larvae also play an important role in the food chain and are eaten by a wide range of useful garden species. So as with most garden pests, it is not a good idea to try to eradicate them entirely. It is also important to note that if you try to eradicate a species entirely, this weakens the ecosystem, and their numbers can rebound dramatically, without being checked by other species in the ecosystem. 2) Embrace Natural Predation An an organic gardener, it is always important to embrace natural predation. By encouraging creatures that eat sawfly and their larvae to your garden, you can help keep their numbers down and keep your roses safe from damage. Wrens and other garden birds, and ground beetles, are useful predators for sawfly to welcome to your garden. Ladybird larvae will also sometimes predate sawfly larvae and so are another beneficial creature to have around.6 Make sure you have biodiverse planting, and other features, to keep them happy in your garden. 3) Remove Larvae By Hand It is important to remain vigilant and to check over your rose bushes regularly for any sign of infestation. The sooner you spot a problem, the easier it will be to deal with. In a garden, a vigilant gardener will often be able to spot a sawfly infestation early. Where the infestation looks as though it may become a problem, it is often possible to squash eggs or remove a small number of larvae by hand. Either dispose of the larvae, give them to chickens if you keep them in your garden, or leave out the despatched larvae on a feeder for garden birds. 4) Organic Pesticides In cases of extreme infestation, it may not be possible to pick off the larvae by hand. In such cases, you might consider an organic pesticide – contact insecticides containing natural pyrethrins can work, though you will usually have to repeatedly apply for good control. Remember, however, that even organic pesticides should only ever be considered as a last resort. Note: you should never spray roses while they are in flower, since this endangers bees and other pollinating insects.7 It is always best to look to natural pest control methods – holistic or integrated pest management – to keep your garden ecosystem in balance. References 1. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1999b, May 4). Sawfly | insect. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/animal/sawfly 2. Sawflies. (n.d.-c). Iowa State University. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/sawflies 3. Sawflies. (n.d.-d). NatureSpot. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.naturespot.org.uk/gallery/sawflies 4. Large Rose Sawfly. (n.d.). NatureSpot. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.naturespot.org.uk/species/large-rose-sawfly 5. Pests and Diseases. (2023, February 22). Peter Beales Roses. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.classicroses.co.uk/blog/post/pests-and-diseases 6. Biological control in the home garden. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/prevention-protection/biological-control-garden 7. Finneran, R., Smitley, D., Elsner, E., Landis, J., Shrewsbury, P., Herms, D., & Palmer, C. (2019, May 1). Do not spray pollinator-attractive plants with insecticides when open flowers are present. Pollinators & Pollination. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/do-not-spray-highly-attractive-plants-with-insecticide-before-or-during-flowering
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7 Reasons Your Conifers Are Turning Brown With Feeding Advice From Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE Why Your Conifer Is Turning Brown 1) Not Enough Water 2) The Wrong Compost 3) Not Enough Space 4) Choose The Right Spot 5) Make Sure There’s Drainage 6) Not Enough Nutrients 7) Don’t Prune Too Hard! Enjoying Your Evergreens Conifers turning brown is a surprisingly common problem for gardeners in the UK. And whenever bright evergreen begins to fade into a sickly brown, it is indicative of a wider issue with the conditions your conifer is growing in. At first only a few needles might change colour, but others follow suit until eventually, the healthy hue disappears completely. And it’s usually one of the same handful of problems that interfere with their ability to do so. Why Your Conifer Is Turning Brown When you think about it, plants need very little to thrive. It’s just a case of getting the right soil, the right levels of water and sunlight, enough space for the roots, and a careful eye to ensure that any issues are nipped in the bud. While different varieties have varying needs, common problems with conifers tend to centre around the same things, so let’s take a look at the various issues you may encounter. 1) Not Enough Water These trees are used to growing in environments where the weather may not be particularly pleasant. They can handle melting snowdrifts and all sorts of wetness. Sitting in the small amount of dry soil that fits in a container then, probably isn’t ideal. If you’re growing a conifer take care to keep it very well watered. More so than you probably expect: sometimes they require watering twice in the same day during particularly hot spells. And if you see water seeping out from the bottom of the pot, this can be a good indication that the roots are taking up too much space in the soil or that you’re using the wrong compost. In the first instance, there’s just not enough soil available to soak up the moisture required to keep the plant alive. And in the second instance, the soil is unable to hold enough moisture regardless of whether there’s enough of it. 2) The Wrong Compost Conifers need compost that retains moisture, and regular potting compost won’t do the trick, unfortunately. A soil-based mix with added material like composted leaf bark or leaf mould will help to hold more moisture, and to let air circulate around the roots. Ask in your local garden centre if you need advice on the specific compost mix for the conifer(s) you’re looking to grow. Different types have different requirements, and it’s important to get this right. 3) Not Enough Space The reality is that conifers will do best when they’re grown in the ground. These are proud and hardy trees that can hold their own against the elements, and a life spent in a small pot isn’t really ideal. If you buy a potted conifer, consider planting it out into the ground after a year or so. This, combined with vigilant watering, should give it the best shot at thriving. If you’re wondering why this becomes problematic, think about the roots of the conifer. As the tree grows so too do its roots, and in a small pot they’re quickly going to run out of space. As the ratio of roots to soil changes, it gets exponentially harder for the conifer to get the nutrients it requires. Needles turning brown and dropping off is a desperate attempt by your plant to shepherd its resources but, unless you take action, this is unlikely to be enough to save it. 4) Choose The Right Spot If you do decide to move your conifer outside, try to find a sheltered spot that gets full sun or partial shade. Shelter is important because strong winds can scorch the plant, turning exposed needles brown and causing damage. 5) Make Sure There’s Drainage Wherever you grow your plant, make sure there’s suitable drainage to allow any water that’s not absorbed to seep out. In a pot this means drainage holes, and maybe even a layer of gravel between the bottom of the container and the soil. In the ground, this means suitable irrigation. You’ve probably noticed that we advise watering often and using a compost that can retain moisture, while also advising you to ensure there’s plenty of drainage for excess water. This is because with conifers, it’s notoriously tricky to get the right amount of water. While they’re hardy, they’re also fussy, and once things start to go south it can be hard to get them back on track. 6) Not Enough Nutrients Nutrition is crucial in keeping plants alive and well. We advise feeding your conifers in late winter, then mulching the top of the soil. “Make sure that the bottom of the pot is ridged or the pot is raised off the ground to let the holes actually drain,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. This will top up their nutrients and hopefully encourage stronger growth. You can buy special feeds for conifer plants, or they’ll respond well to 10-10-10 or 16-8-8 mixes. Applying feed once a year will be enough to keep these trees suitably nourished: resist the temptation to over-feed as this can disrupt their delicate balance. “In pots, feeding more regularly is important; nettle tea can be watered onto the compost every few weeks between spring and late summer,” Peter adds. 7) Don’t Prune Too Hard! Many gardeners get a little over-enthusiastic when pruning their conifers, out of a desire to keep them looking neat and trimmed. Unfortunately however, pruning too aggressively can shock the plant and cause damage. And because few conifers regrow from old wood, it can take a permanent toll, as Peter shares. “Most conifers do not have dormant buds, so pruning back past the green growth leaves no buds to re-sprout. Hence, the infamous dead patch in a conifer. “There is an exception – yew is particularly good at regenerating from a hard prune if carried out in summer. That’s one reason why I find yew, Taxus baccata, to be among the best conifers for hedging. “Pruning too early can cause new growth to get frosted and, you guessed it, turn brown.” When it’s time to prune, be gentle. Only take off a small amount, and do this only in April through August. It’s far preferable to take off too little then rectify later on with another gentle prune, rather than to hack off so much that you cause irreversible damage to the plant! Enjoying Your Evergreens With the right care it’s possible to avoid this fate Grown with the care and attention they require, conifers are beautiful and rewarding plants to have in your garden. They’re big, bold, and vibrant, holding their colour year-round and providing a reminder in the lean months that Mother Nature will hold court again shortly. While it can feel like a bit of a balancing act getting the conditions right for your fledgling conifer, once you get a feel for it and your plant begins to get established, you should find things easier. Just remember that they’re thirstier than you might expect, that good moisture retention and good drainage are both required, and the over-zealous pruning will cause way more harm than good. And whether you decide to keep a conifer in a small container on your desk, a large container on your patio, or encircled in your lawn, the steps in this guide should hopefully help you to keep it alive and well for a long time to come.
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Organic Gardener Shares How To Identify And Fix A Serious Leatherjacket Infestation
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Leatherjackets? What Do They Look Like? Are They A Problem In The Garden? How To Identify A Leatherjacket Problem Leatherjacket Benefits In A Garden Ecosystem How To Deal With A Serious Infestation References Leatherjackets can be a common problem in lawns, eating roots and causing patches. But what exactly are leatherjackets? Are they really a problem? And what should you do about them? In this article, we’ll take a closer look at these common larvae, how you can work out if you have leatherjackets causing damage in your lawn, flower beds or vegetable patches – and what to do about it if you do. What Are Leatherjackets? Leatherjacket Leatherjackets are the larvae of crane flies, also known as ‘daddy longlegs’ (Tipula ssp.).1 There are a range of different species of crane flies present in UK gardens. What Do They Look Like? The larvae are grey-brown in colour, with no obvious head and no legs. Depending on the species they can be up to 3cm long. They take their name from the fact that these larvae have a tough leathery skin. The long dangling legs of the adults make them easily recognisable, and they are a familiar sight across the British Isles. Female adult crane flies lay up to 300 eggs in the lawn or on the soil surface sometime in the late summer.2 After a couple of weeks, a proportion of these will hatch into the leatherjacket larvae. If the weather is dry at this time, fewer will tend to hatch successfully. If the weather over the winter is cold, the leatherjackets will overwinter as small larvae and will not grow to feed on plants or potentially cause problems until the following mid-summer. However, if the winter is mild, young larvae will continue to feed and can begin to cause problems by the time winter is through. Once the leatherjackets are fully grown, they pupate below the soil surface. The adult flies then emerge from their pupal cases and the life cycle continues. Are They A Problem In The Garden? It is important to understand that only a few species of crane fly larvae actually pose a problem in your garden. These few species can be problematic because they eat the roots of lawn grasses, leaving yellow or brown patches and causing the grasses to die back in certain infested areas. Leatherjackets can also occasionally become an issue in vegetable plots or flower beds, especially in new beds which have recently been created over an area of lawn. The larvae may nibble off seedlings at ground level, causing them to collapse. How To Identify A Leatherjacket Problem It is important not to rush to judgement if you see adult crane flies in your garden. Because these may not be of the species which pose a threat to your lawn or seedlings. If you do see patches of dead or dying grass in your lawn, or patches where birds have made small round holes in the turf, then leatherjackets may be the issue. But it is important to investigate a little to make sure that a different problem is not to blame. Dry and dying patches of lawn can have a range of causes. To make sure that it is leatherjackets and not a disease or other pest issue, you should lift a patch of the turf that is affected. If leatherjackets are present, you should see that the root system of the affected grass is damaged or practically non-existent, and should find the culprits themselves fairly easily in the upper layers of the soil. You can also see whether leatherjackets are the problem by watering and then covering the affected area with a layer of black plastic. Leave this is place overnight. The next morning, if leatherjackets are present, lift the cover and you should see a large number of these grubs on the surface. Where you see holes in the soil where birds have dug in their beaks, this could be a tell-tale sign that larvae are present. Corvids and starlings will look for leatherjackets in this way. However, they could also be looking for chafer grubs. Foxes and badgers may also dig up chafer grubs, so if there is greater disturbance then chafer grubs may be more likely to be the issue. In a new flower or vegetable bed, if seedlings or small plants have their stems damaged at the soil level and collapse, there can be a number of culprits. Again, looking around in the upper levels of the soil for the leatherjackets themselves will help you identify whether or not these pests are to blame. Leatherjacket Benefits In A Garden Ecosystem Leatherjackets can be a pest for those who like a neat and tidy lawn, and can occasionally be an issue in other parts of the garden. But as mentioned above, it is important to remember that only a small number of crane fly species have larvae which will actually do any damage. Even if you do have an infestation of a damaging type, it will need to be rather a large infestation to pose a serious threat to your lawn grasses or other plants. It is important to remember that like all other garden creatures, crane flies and their larvae are part of the garden ecosystem. The best way to deal with any pest species is not to eradicate them or get rid of them entirely. Rather, the best strategy is to manage their numbers, and create a balanced ecosystem with plenty of predators to keep their numbers down. “Leatherjacket populations would rarely be large enough to cause yellowing or die back in lawns to a significant level,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Especially today when we are less likely to be wanting a green carpet outdoors but looking to see grass in the garden as a resource for wildlife. “If a severe problem does arise, most likely it will not persist and return to lower levels.” So if you have a lot of crane flies and leatherjackets, look to attract plenty of the birds and other species which eat them to your garden. They can be valuable prey for a range of different animals. Those many species of crane fly which do not cause damage feed not on roots of plants but on decaying vegetation, fungi etc. They therefore play an important role in recycling nutrients in the soil and can be beneficial within the garden ecosystem. How To Deal With A Serious Infestation If you do have a serious infestation of damaging leatherjackets in your garden, then it is of course important to manage the problem organically. First of all, try to manage the problem by manually removing the larvae, and by taking steps to increase the numbers of natural crane fly predators present in your garden. If all else fails, however, there is a biological control to consider. It is possible to purchase certain pathogenic nematodes – Steinernema feltiae or Steinernema carpocapsae, which can be watered into the lawn, or soil. These nematodes are microscopic organisms which enter the bodies of the leatherjackets and give them a bacterial disease. These can be used in moist soil, which has a temperature of at least 12°C. When the conditions are right, these should be watered into the area of the infestation and the surrounding area. However, it is crucial not to try this when the soil is too cold. If the leatherjacket population is out of control and a lot of damage is being caused, these nematodes can be the most effective solution. References 1. Baker, J. (n.d.). Leatherjackets and Crane Flies. NC State Extension Publications. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/leatherjackets-and-craneflies 2. Crane Flies | Facts & Identification, Control & Prevention. (2020, July 24). Orkin Canada. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.orkincanada.ca/pests/flies/crane-flies/
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Prevent Blackfly On Broad Bean Plants With Predatory Insects And Trap Crops
IN THIS GUIDE Preventative Methods 1) Keep Blackfly Numbers Down 2) Keep Your Broad Beans Healthy 3) Distract Blackfly With Trap Crops Proactive Removal Methods References Blackfly are sap-sucking insects which can sometimes become a problem on broad bean plants. However, by using the right approaches in your organic garden, you can easily prevent blackfly infestations from occurring and easily deal with blackfly infestations if they do arise. There is no need to resort to extreme and non-environmentally friendly solutions. A few simple steps should help you avoid any issues with your broad beans, and make sure you still get a good crop. Blackfly on broad beans Preventative Methods First things first, in an organic garden, it is always better to deal with potential problems not when, but before they happen. So the first phase in dealing with blackfly on broad bean plants is to make sure that the blackfly population in your garden is not out of control. It is also important to make sure that your broad bean plants are as healthy as they can be – since healthy plants are far less likely to succumb to any pest problems. 1) Keep Blackfly Numbers Down In an organic garden, pest management mostly involves making sure that no one species gets out of control, and that the whole ecosystem remains in balance. Keeping blackfly numbers down means thinking about their natural predators. By attracting plenty of natural blackfly predators, such as ladybirds and lacewings to our gardens, we can keep their populations in check. Companion planting to attract ladybirds and lacewings is the key strategy that can be adopted in an organic garden. Close to your broad beans, you should plant companion crops that draw in these predatory insects. Some great examples of companion crops for broad beans which can achieve this are yarrow, tansy, dill, alyssum, oregano and thyme, though there are plenty of other companion plants to consider. Generally speaking, the more biodiversity there is in your garden, the less likely it is that populations of pests like blackfly will get out of control. Ladybirds are natural predators of the blackfly 2) Keep Your Broad Beans Healthy If your garden is diversely planted and you have already given some thought to pest control, another key thing to consider is the health of your broad beans. The health of your plants, of course, begins with the health of your soil. But with broad beans (a nitrogen-fixing plant) adding too much fertility can be counterproductive and may actually decrease the health and vigour of your plants.1 Over-fertilised broad beans may sometimes be more likely to encounter a pest problem. Water is another key area to look into; broad beans which are not provided with enough water (or which are given too much) will not be as healthy. Broad beans, even dwarf cultivars, also need support – those without adequate support may not be as strong, and are more likely to be infested by blackfly or other pests. Another final thing to remember is that the young tip growth of the broad beans is the most enticing to blackfly. Once your broad beans have sufficient flowers, and the first pods begin to form, pinch off the growing tip. This will encourage the broad beans to put their energy into pod and bean formation – but will also reduce the chances of a blackfly infestation. Incidentally, you should note that the tips from your broad beans can be cooked and eaten as a fresh spring green vegetable, so do not just discard them or add them to your compost heap. 3) Distract Blackfly With Trap Crops Blackfly on nasturtiums Of course, even with natural predation, there will often still be blackfly in your garden. It is important to remember that they are not the enemy. Like all other garden pests, they are also part of the garden ecosystem. And like all other garden wildlife, they too have their roles to play. It is important to remember that we do want some blackfly and other sap-suckers around. Aside from anything else, if we do not have them around, then we do not have the beneficial wildlife which preys on them. When we eliminate pests entirely, therefore, we risk making a rod for our own backs. “Every year black fly populations thrive on my broad beans,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master of Horticulture. “If they get really populous, I might give them a blast with water, but they’re soon back. “They don’t seem to detrimentally impact the overall health of the plant and the crop, so I’ve learnt to live with them rather than fight them.” When blackfly inevitably return to a garden that has been cleansed of them, their populations can grow exponentially, when predatory species are absent. Rather than getting rid of blackfly, therefore, our strategy should not be to keep them away altogether. Instead, it should be to keep them away as much as possible from our broad beans and other culinary crops. In an organic garden, we can achieve this by planting trap crops; this is another type of companion planting that should be used as part of your companion planting strategy. Trap crops are plants which are chosen because they attract blackfly more than broad beans. Placing these in another part of the garden can keep the pests distracted and make it less likely that your broad beans will have a serious infestation. One common trap crop to use for blackfly to keep them off your broad beans is nasturtiums. Blackfly and other aphids seem (at least anecdotally) to be drawn to the nasturtiums more than to beans. You may also see ants herding these insects onto such trap crops. The growth of the nasturtiums themselves may be affected – but your main crops will remain safe. Proactive Removal Methods If you take the steps mentioned above to make sure your garden ecosystem is in balance, your broad beans are healthy, and blackfly are distracted by other plants, then you should find that you encounter fewer serious infestations on your beans. But if you do see blackfly on your broad beans, you should: Try to remove them by hand, or with a jet of water from a hose. Consider introducing predatory species (to make up for a lack of these in your garden). Introducing native ladybird larvae, for example, is one strategy to consider where companion planting has not successfully distracted the insects. However, remember that introducing species is always a last resort, and you should make sure that those you choose were not wild harvested. It is always better to work on naturally attracting wildlife through diverse planting. Pesticides, even organic ones, should be considered as the nuclear option. These will often target species which are not pests, as well as blackfly and other aphids which sometimes are. Killing pest species in your garden is rarely the best option, since this will also have an impact on their predators, and have a knock-on impact on the garden ecosystem. References 1. Biological Nitrogen Fixation. (n.d.). The Nature Education. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.nature.com/scitable/knowledge/library/biological-nitrogen-fixation-23570419/
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Stop Cabbage White Butterflies Destroying Your Plants With These 5 Solutions
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Companion Planting For Brassicas 2) Distracting With Trap Crops 3) Attracting Beneficial Wildlife 4) Decoy Butterflies 5) Physical Barriers References Cabbage white butterflies may look pretty, but their caterpillars can quickly destroy garden crops. Though we should welcome wildlife in our gardens, it is important for those who are growing their own to be aware of this common pest, and the problems they can bring, especially for brassicas. Members of the cabbage family can be eaten rapidly if you get an infestation of cabbage white caterpillars, but there are a few things you can do to keep your plants safe. Cabbage white larvae The strategies for dealing with cabbage white butterflies in organic gardens revolves around a few simple things: Companion planting (which can confuse, distract or repel this species, at least to a degree) Attracting predators which prey on cabbage white butterflies and their caterpillars. Making the area a less appealing place for cabbage white butterflies to lay eggs. (By making them think the area is already occupied by other cabbage white butterflies, for example.) Creating physical barriers over your plants. The first two strategies can work to a degree. It is important to maintain a natural balance in the garden ecosystem so that all pest species are kept in check. But no matter how vigilant you are, the only sure-fire way to stop cabbage white butterflies from laying their eggs and caterpillars from destroying your plants is to keep them covered, and to form a physical barrier that these pests cannot breach. 1) Companion Planting For Brassicas Cabbage and spring onion companion planting Choosing the right companion plants to grow alongside brassicas involves thinking about plants that will disguise the scent of the brassicas and make it less likely that these butterflies will find them and lay eggs on them. Many aromatic herbs have a strong fragrance and when planted alongside brassicas as companion crops, can make these plants more difficult for cabbage whites to find. Examples include rosemary, thyme, mint, marjoram, sage, dill, and chamomile. Planting alliums (members of the onion family) alongside brassicas can also make them more difficult for plants to find. Cabbage whites may also be repelled to a degree by these strong-smelling plants. Remember, companion planting is also key to attracting beneficial wildlife. The plants in any garden should be chosen to encourage a wide range of beneficial creatures to the space. 2) Distracting With Trap Crops Cabbage white on nasturtiums It is also a good idea to think not just about companion plants for brassicas, but also plants to place elsewhere in your garden which attract cabbage whites and act as sacrificial trap crops. By planting trap crops elsewhere in your garden, you can lure cabbage whites away from plants which you are particularly keen to protect. Remember, cabbage white butterflies are important elements in the ecology of your garden.1 So you should not ever aim to eliminate them, but rather to protect the plants you wish to protect while offering them a home elsewhere in your garden. Nasturtiums, for instance, are one example of a trap crop.2 They will attract cabbage white butterflies, as well as several other common garden pests, which will often be attracted preferentially to feed on these rather than on more prized crops and garden plants. Sea stock, honesty plant, and Dame’s violet are three other attractant plants for cabbage white butterflies to consider. When these are placed in your garden, the butterflies may lay eggs on these rather than on your brassicas. Then when the caterpillars emerge, they will eat on the plants where they find themselves rather than gorging on your cabbage family plants. 3) Attracting Beneficial Wildlife Remember, the plants you choose for your garden and the habitats you create are key to pest control in an organic garden. Garden birds are very welcome if you want to stop cabbage white butterflies destroying your plants. Many garden birds are important predators of these pests. Attracting garden birds can be one way to keep pest numbers down. Parasitic wasp You should also be sure to welcome and attract other insect species (such as parasitic wasps, Cotesia glomerate), spiders, amphibians, reptiles and a number of mammals to your garden as these will also prey on cabbage white butterflies and their caterpillars and help keep their numbers down. It is also worth mentioning that domestic chickens can also eat caterpillars and help keep their numbers down. Just don’t give chickens access to your cabbages and vegetable plots – as chickens too will quickly eat the lot if given the opportunity! Instead, consider placing trap crops (as mentioned above) in an area where chickens forage. 4) Decoy Butterflies While we are not entirely convinced by the efficacy of this strategy, some gardeners swear that you can keep your plants safe from cabbage whites by adding decoy butterflies. These decoy butterflies, it is said, make it less likely that cabbage white butterflies will lay eggs close by as they believe that the area is already occupied. People make pretend cabbage white butterflies out of white paper, white fabric or white plastic (cut from old milk containers, for example). Place these among their brassica crops. While this strategy may or may not work, it could certainly be worth considering before you adopt more extreme solutions. 5) Physical Barriers Growing brassicas under netting Even when you adopt some or all of the strategies above, the only way to be absolutely certain that you won’t lose your brassica crop to cabbage white butterflies is to place physical barriers over the crop. Place a fine netting of 3-7mm size, mesh or other fabric row coverings over any cabbage family plants to keep them safe from hungry caterpillars. Though this may not be the most attractive feature in your garden, this is certainly the only way to avoid any losses at all when growing brassicas in your vegetable plot and ensure the netting is kept clear of the plant leaves.3 Make sure you place the barriers as soon as you plant brassicas as the cabbage white butterflies will soon appear. Observation is key and you will need to keep a close eye on your brassicas and look under leaves to make sure no eggs have already been laid. Physical barriers will only work if you place them before eggs have been laid. Otherwise, caterpillars will munch away under the covers and you could lose the lot! If you think you may have been a little late in placing your barriers, you may have to check over your plants carefully and remove by hand any eggs which have already been laid. Remember, both types of cabbage white butterfly present in the UK, Pieris brassicae (the large white) and Pieris rapae (the small white) lay eggs that become voracious caterpillars. But both can also be beneficial in your garden – so do not get try to get rid of them altogether – cover your key crops, and plant wisely so you can live and let live. References 1. What Is A Food Web? (n.d.). The RSPB. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/natures-home-magazine/birds-and-wildlife-articles/food-chains/web-of-life/ 2. Wolfe, K. (2020, June 12). Trap Cropping. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/2073/2020/07/Trap-Cropping.pdf 3. Insect-proof mesh / RHS Gardening. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved June 23, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/prevention-protection/insect-proof-mesh
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Chafer Grubs Can Cause A Lot Of Lawn Damage - Here Are Some Biological Solutions
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Chafer Grubs? Turf Damage What Do Chafer Grubs Look Like? Chafer Grubs In A Lawn Signs Of Infestation Prevention Biological Solutions Organic Control Chafer Grub Garden Benefits References Chafer grubs can pose a problem for those who prize perfect lawns, but can also be beneficial in your garden. If you are wondering how to get rid of chafer grubs then it is likely that you have encountered a problem with your lawn. But it is important to realise that though they can lead to a lawn that looks less than ideal, there are many reasons to want chafer grubs around. Only some chafer grubs pose a problem in a garden, and as you will discover in this article, not even these grubs need to be considered a serious problem at all. Read on to find out more about chafer grubs, when you might want to get rid of them – and why, most of the time in an organic garden, they are great garden wildlife to have around. What Are Chafer Grubs? ‘Chafer grubs’ are the larvae of chafer beetles. They live below the soil, beneath lawns, in beds and borders and in compost heaps.1 There are a number of different species of chafer beetles present in UK gardens. These grubs can easily be confused with those of dung beetles and stag beetles, though these other creatures will do no harm in your garden and the stag beetle is an endangered species. There are five species of chafer beetles in the UK which are known to cause lawn damage.2 Turf Damage The main grubs which pose a potential problem for gardeners are Smaller garden chafers (Phyllopertha horticola) and Welsh chafers (Hoplia philanthus). These types of chafer grub are most commonly found underneath areas of turf. They can be viewed as a problem because they can destroy the root systems of grasses in a lawn – though they will not usually pose a threat to other mature plant species. Lawns can also be damaged by wildlife digging up the lawn to retrieve them. Other species found in the UK include the cockchafer (Melolontha melolontha) and the summer chafer (Amphimallon solstitiale) which will very occasionally feed on and damage the roots of plants in a bed or border, around the edges of a lawn.3 But these are usually not a problem in a garden. All species of chafer, as you will discover below, have benefits within the garden ecosystem. One species – the Rose chafer grub (Cetonia aurata) can be particularly beneficial and is often found within a composting system, where they lend a helping hand in breaking down organic matter. What Do Chafer Grubs Look Like? Chafer grubs are chubby white grubs with bodies curved into a ‘C’ shape. They have light brown heads and three pairs of legs close to the head end of their bodies. These grubs can reach a length of up to around 18mm long – bigger than the adults of the species. Larger chafer grubs such as the cockchafer and summer chafer can have larger larvae up to 30mm in length.4 One thing to bear in mind is that it is very difficult to distinguish between the different grubs of different chafer species, and also difficult to distinguish those of chafer beetles from those of other beetles. Only if you find these under your turf, and see damage to the lawn, should you assume that these are feeding on the roots and that they may be a problem in your garden. Chafer Grubs In A Lawn As mentioned above, the only chafer grubs that can really pose an irritation to gardeners are small garden chafers and welsh chafers that can damage a lawn. If there is a serious infestation in a lawn, damage will be most clear between September and April, when the grubs are at their most active and are nearing maturity. Signs Of Infestation Lawn damage from chafer grubs If chafers have been eating roots in a lawn, patches may become yellowed and die back. But a telltale sign that chafer grubs are present is the disturbed areas of the lawn, where birds such as corvids (members of the crow family), foxes or badgers have dug to retrieve and eat them. Gardeners who prize a perfect lawn may be irritated by the destruction, which can soon turn a neat and orderly area of turf into what looks like a pitted minefield. While other wildlife, such as leatherjackets, can also cause areas of lawn to die back, these will not usually be unearthed in the same way as chafer grubs by other animals. In May or June, if you have a large infestation, you will see adult beetles flying up from the turf in large numbers, usually in the evening as the light begins to fade. In an organic garden, it is certainly worthwhile remembering that there are many more useful ways to use the space in your garden that will be far more beneficial to you (and to the ecology of the site) than a lawn. So if you are not able to maintain a perfect lawn, consider replacing it with a meadow garden, a vegetable plot, or even a beautiful and productive food forest. Prevention With more diverse and abundant, eco-friendly planting schemes, chafer grubs are far less likely to be a problem. If you do wish to maintain a lawn, then keep it well-watered and fed. Though please make sure to use only organic fertilisers, and never synthetic fertilisers or herbicides, which pose a threat to the environment, wildlife and people.5 Problems are more likely to take hold in a lawn that is less heavily managed. Preventing moss growth may also help to avoid a damaging population. Biological Solutions In very extreme cases, there is a biological control available. Gardeners can water in Heterohabditis bacteriophora nematodes any time when temperatures are between 12-20°C – usually between July and September. These nematodes infect the larvae with a fatal bacterial disease. However, this is the ‘nuclear option’, and should only ever be viewed as a last resort. Organic Control If the population of chafer grubs in a lawn has become excessive, this should be taken as a sign that the ecosystem is out of balance. In an organic garden, boosting biodiversity and maintaining a natural balance in the garden ecosystem is an important part of the puzzle. Excessive numbers of chafer grubs may be a sign that there are insufficient numbers of their natural predators in the ecosystem. Attracting more rooks, crows, magpies, jays, foxes, badgers etc. to your garden is one of the best ways to keep their numbers under control. Make sure you have plenty of habitats and diverse planting to attract a wide range of wildlife into your garden. Chafer Grub Garden Benefits The main reason why chafer grubs can be a good thing in your garden is that all species are important food sources for grub-eating wildlife. All organic gardens should have some ‘pests’, because it is only when these creatures are present that natural biodiversity will be maintained and their predators will be present too. So do not be too quick to get rid of chafer grubs entirely. “Most gardens with areas of grass will have chafer grubs but never notice any damage,” Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly summarises. “Where there is repeated severe damage, consider changing the use of the area but this would be a rare consideration. “In general, see chafer grubs as part of the garden ecosystem. If you remove them, you are removing food for the more charismatic birds and larger wildlife that you want to see in your garden.” References 1. Chafer grubs in lawns. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/chafer-grubs-in-lawns 2. Lifecycle and control of Chafer grubs, the larvae of the chafer beetle. (n.d.). Agrovista Amenity. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://amenity.agrovista.co.uk/technical-updates/common-pests-in-the-uk-chafer-grubs/ 3. Chafer grubs in garden borders. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/chafer-grubs-in-garden-borders 4. Mumford, C. (2015, April 22). Chafer grub Q&A. Pitchcare. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.pitchcare.com/news-media/chafer-grub-q-a-for-pitchcare.html 5. Fertilisers | Agriculture and Land-Use. (n.d.). The RSPB. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rspb.org.uk/our-work/policy-insight/england-westminster/farming-and-land-use/land-use-and-nature/fertilisers/
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Weeding 101: Master Horticulturist Shares 4 Effective Techniques You Must Try
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Cover Them Over 2) Dig Them Up 3) Hoe Them 4) Consider Chemicals A Bonus Tip ‘Weed’ Love To Help References As a budding gardener, weeding is probably the bane of your life. Whatever you do, they’re there. However much time you spend on your knees pulling them up, weeds will always return. The constant battle of wills between you and these unwanted plant visitors will take up a huge amount of your time outside but, and this is a big but, there are ways to turn the tide. Weeds are the bane of a gardener’s existence In this article we’ll introduce four ways to slow the relentless encroachment of weeds into your lovely garden space. These techniques vary from short to long term, and should be relevant to any gardener as a result. There are a few tools you might need, but nothing major. Most gardeners will have these things kicking around already, and if not, they’re not difficult or expensive to get hold of. Here’s what you might need: Cardboard Weed fleece A bucket A trowel A garden fork A hoe Chemical weed killer 1) Cover Them Over If you’ve got the luxury of time, covering your weeds with a light-blocking material is very effective. The idea here is to starve them of the light they need to grow for weeks or even months until the plant dies off or is severely weakened. Then when you remove the covering you’ve either got a bed that’s free of weeds, or a plant that’s much easier to remove than it would have been previously. The image above shows a material called weed fleece or weed membrane which is specially designed for this job, although you have a lot of options. Cardboard, for instance: unfolded cardboard boxes make great light-blocking mulch, and bring the combined benefit of decomposing down into compost. For this method, simply cover the areas of your garden you want to weed and wait for a while. You’ll be best off starting in February or March before the most aggressive growth begins, and the amount of time to leave them covered varies by species of weed. Mulch is also an effective (and more environmentally friendly) option. Bear in mind that some species can take a couple of years to kill off completely, meaning that unless you’re working with an area of your garden that you’re in no rush to use soon, you’ll probably need to combine it with some more active weeding once the cover is removed. 2) Dig Them Up This is probably the most familiar and traditional method of growing weeds: get down on your knees and dig. Then dig, dig, and dig some more. Eventually, there’ll be a big pile of weeds next to you that used to be in the ground, and all the hard labour you’ve put in to get to that point will feel worthwhile. An honest day’s work Digging up weeds requires a certain amount of care, especially if they’re growing in a bed shared with flowers or vegetables. You want to avoid accidentally hitting anything you want to keep, because even if you don’t dig it up entirely, damaging the roots can prevent the plant from growing properly. Use a trowel or garden fork, depending on the species of weed you’re looking to remove and your personal preference. Make sure to dig deep, and where possible to avoid leaving any root segments left behind. A weed puller can also be an effective tool and its long handle can really help save your back! Weeds are quite happy to regrow from small sections of root, and if you fill a bucket with just the tops of the plant, your hard work will quickly become redundant as a new crop of weeds takes their place. 3) Hoe Them Hoes are very useful garden tools, although they’re not used as much as they used to be. “Definitely something of a dying art, hoeing is a highly effective means of weed control,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The key is timing, both in terms of weed growth (seedling stage) and weather (fine and dry, preferably with a breeze, to desiccate the hoed seedlings and prevent re-rooting). “The right size of blade and length of the handle is also essential for the area to be tackled – onion hoes have small blades for working in fine areas, whilst small hand hoes are great when you need to be on your hands and knees and long handles are best in a tricky-to-reach spot.” If you’re one of many gardeners who don’t have hoes in their regular gardening arsenal, now may be the time to reconsider. Hoeing is simple: just scrape the blade of the hoe gently across the top level of your soil. This movement removes the heads of weeds and damages their root system. The removed section then withers and dies on the top surface of the soil and, if you hoe regularly, the remaining roots don’t get a chance to regrow. It’s recommended that you hoe in dry weather when the top of the soil has had time to dry out. This creates dusty conditions on the top layer which makes it harder for new growth to germinate, increasing the effectiveness of your work. Aim to be in a comfortable position as it may take you a while to cover the area you’re weeding. 4) Consider Chemicals There are plenty of chemical weed killers designed to get rid of persistent plants, but there are a few caveats to keep in mind before deploying this extreme treatment. Firstly: it’s hard to apply a weed killer just to the weeds. Spraying from above means other plants will get hit, and the chemical doesn’t discriminate between different types of plant. It also doesn’t discriminate between plants and wildlife – meaning the application of weed killer is extremely damaging to pollinators such as bees and other local wildlife.1 Secondly: once you factor in the time required to bend down and carefully apply weed killer to each weed you do want to kill, the question arises of whether it’s more efficient to just dig up the weeds by hand instead. Thirdly: weed killer can remain in the soil, causing damage after it’s been applied.2 Weed killer is recommended when you’ve got a particularly large or persistent weed wreaking havoc in your garden and, most importantly, when other techniques have failed. There’s a reason that chemical weed killers are at the bottom of our list: we definitely suggest you try the other methods first. If you do decide to use a weed killer, read the instructions carefully to make sure you’re applying it correctly and not damaging yourself or any other plants. A Bonus Tip One of the best suggestions we’ve ever heard when it comes to weeding is to get the kids involved, and to guarantee their buy-in by turning it into a game. Instead of letting on that weeding is actually tedious manual labour, tell them that whoever fills up their bucket first gets a prize. Then watch as they scramble over each other to weed as quickly as possible. One tip: make sure they know which plants are weeds! ‘Weed’ Love To Help There you have it: four foolproof techniques to remove weeds from your garden, tailored to different gardening styles and time availability. No longer will your garden be held hostage by a relentless onslaught of weeds popping up between your precious plants and flowers. Instead, you’ll be able to turn the tide and keep them in check, relegating them to their true position in your garden. And while there’s always the knowledge that weeds will come back, no matter what you do, rest assured that these techniques will keep their numbers down and make things far more manageable. We wish you the best of luck. References 1. The environmental impacts of glyphosate. (n.d.). Friends of the Earth Europe. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.foeeurope.org/sites/default/files/press_releases/foee_5_environmental_impacts_glyphosate.pdf 2. Weedkiller damage. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/prevention-protection/weedkiller-damage
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7 Garden Privacy Plant Ideas From Professional Garden Designers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Fast-Growing, Evergreen Trees 2) Privacy Hedges Or Living Walls 3) Climbers On Fencing 4) Tall Ferns 5) A Grove Of Bamboo 6) Brick Wall With Integrated Planters, Pegs & Hooks 7) Trellis Planters & Vines And Combinations Galore References Though it is a given that you engage in garden activities with an expectation of privacy, increased restrictions on movement coupled with rising population density mean that you spend more time in your garden but with more breaches of your privacy. In an age when British lifestyles are gradually undergoing permanent adaptation and alteration, a garden doubles as both a sanctuary and as ‘The Great Outdoors’. We lay out seven planting solutions to improve garden privacy with a total focus on year-round privacy. Each of several of our general solutions contains within it three or four options or sub-ideas. We are quite sure that you will find at least a couple of solutions that you will go for. 1) Fast-Growing, Evergreen Trees The Sparkling Foliage and Symmetrical Form of Tulip Poplar The first solution that comes to mind when one thinks about garden privacy is – of course – trees. “I love trees and they are great for screening,” shares Danny Clarke, acclaimed Garden Designer, also known as The Black Gardener. “People tend to be frightened of them because they think they’ll be high maintenance or expensive (if they need to hire a tree surgeon), but there is a tree for every situation. “Trees, when strategically placed, can give you the privacy you want in a garden and are also great for the environment. “They bring down carbon from the atmosphere and lock it back into the earth where it belongs.” When you choose trees for the express purpose of improving garden privacy, the two primary selection criteria have to be rate of growth and foliage. Ornamental value ranks (a distant) third. The tree should grow at a brisk rate and boast evergreen foliage. However, the tree also has to be of a type that is pest-resistant and disease-free, and whose wood is of good quality, i.e. will not be prone to rot or snap off in high winds. “Trees are a really good plant for privacy,” adds Flo Headlam, a Garden Designer & Tv Personolaity. “Check the height and spread of any plant before growing and consider what type of tree you want as well as what you want to block out.” As Flo says, you will want a tree of the right height as well – Leyland Cypress is a common choice but one you may consider being overused.1 “This tree has caused countless problems between neighbours as it can grow relatively quickly up to 20m, which is beyond a normal hedge height of 2-3m,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “It also does not regrow from old wood, so when cut back hard, it does not re-green and stays an unattractive brown.” Green Giant Arborvitae aka Thuja Green Giant is a very dense evergreen with needle-like leaves of a brilliant green hue. This drought-tolerant tree forms a natural screen. See this list for more fast-growing tree ideas. 2) Privacy Hedges Or Living Walls Privet Hedges Deliver Significant Ornamental Value in the Summer “Obviously, you’ve got your pleached trees that will go all the way around a garden, but you can just put a large multi-stemmed shrub around your seating area so you’re not literally enclosing yourself in all the way around your garden boundaries,” says Ann-Marie Powell, Garden Designer. Privacy hedges are often called ‘living walls’ and are the ‘standard’ garden privacy solution. But, let’s face it, far too many hedges are simply functional and do not deliver any decorative value. Other popular hedges, such as Forsythia, lose their leaves in the winter. Privet Hedge Privet Hedge is the default favourite and this is one hedge that deserves its reputation. It is evergreen in most regions of the UK, is easy to shape, and has sparkling rich green foliage.2 Varieties include Green or Common Privet, Wild Privet, Golden Privet, and North Privet. In summer they bear clusters of fragrant white flowers, adding to their beauty. Thuja Green Giant (Again!) Though Green Giant Arborvitae aka Thuja Green Giant is actually a tree, this evergreen conifer can readily be pruned and shaped to make a great privacy hedge. It is disease-resistant, low maintenance, and tough. It emits a very refreshing woodsy scent. Nellie R. Stevens Holly Greatly ‘upping’ the ante from an ornamental perspective is Nellie R. Stevens Holly. This so-called ‘Holly’ is actually a hybrid evergreen shrub that can be purchased in tree form or bush form. In bush form, with a bit of help from you, it will grow into a marvellously ornamental privacy screen that will produce clusters of creamy flowers in autumn and bright red berries in winter. “This tree is appreciated by wildlife, with birds using it as shelter and enjoying the red berries,” says Roy. 3) Climbers On Fencing Wouldn’t a Clematis ‘Apple Blossom’ Screen Look Fantastic in the Summer? A privacy screen that is as perfectly functional as it is pleasingly decorative can be achieved by installing high wire fencing and growing several (or many) climbers over it. “With adequate space, Clematis armandii can cover a fence or trellis over 5m high and is evergreen with fragrant star-shaped white flowers in the spring,” adds Roy. First, we should note that though Hydrangeas may seem like a top option, they are not good choices because the hardy varieties are deciduous and the evergreen ones are not hardy. Japanese Honeysuckle Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) is evergreen in most parts of the United Kingdom (or semi-evergreen in the coldest areas). This is a vigorous climber with intensely green foliage. It bears fragrant white and yellow flowers in the summer, turning into shiny black berries in autumn. Rosa banksiae Rosa banksiae is a yellow or cream flowered rambling rose with brilliant foliage; it will cover a large area and is evergreen in milder areas. Clematis Clematis is a top candidate. Excellent choices include evergreen cultivars ‘Ben’s Beauty’, ‘Enham Star’, ‘Freckles’, ‘Apple Blossom’, and ‘Wisley Cream’. All have attractive foliage and bear flowers, including coloured, scented, or winter blooms. Euonymus forunei ‘Coloratus’ For a pure foliage play, try Euonymus fortunei ‘Coloratus’ or Purple Wintercreeper. Although technically a trailing creeper, it will happily climb any vertical surface and form a lush wall of deep, brilliant green leaves that provide autumn and winter interest as they change colour to reds and purples. English Ivy And then, of course, there’s English Ivy, which needs no introduction. 4) Tall Ferns Plug Trouble Spots with a Dense Growth of Sword Fern You may already have good garden privacy but are worried about a few trouble spots or gaps that you need to plug. An unusual and eye-catching way of doing so is with tall ferns. Most tall ferns are either deciduous or frost-tender, and all require at least some shade. Ostrich Fern If you can live with a ‘screening fern’ that is deciduous but is remarkably pretty, fully hardy, and attains a height of about 1.5m, go with RHS Award of Garden Merit recipient Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris, often known as Shuttlecock Fern).3 Sword Fern That out of the way, there is one big fern that offers year-round greenery and is hardy to boot – be introduced to Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum), also an RHS Award of Garden Merit recipient. This very sizeable fern attains an eventual height of 1.25m with a spread to match. However, it does not grow very fast. The workaround is to buy a young but good-sized plant and hire professionals to transplant it in a raised bed. Sword Fern has attractive foliage – pinnate, deeply divided leaves that are a bright green; that classic ‘leafy green’ hue. Add to that its rounded form, and we have an architectural plant that – besides filling in that problem gap – will display wonderfully well, especially in twos or threes. 5) A Grove Of Bamboo Not-so-Tall but Dense and Bushy Umbrella Bamboo Forms a Natural Screen “Bamboo is a good one for privacy and screening, but you have to be careful to plant a clump-forming type as opposed to bamboo that is going to run,” says Flo. “You can plant them in containers and place them strategically.” However, most bamboo varieties are too tall or bear their foliage too high to be effective privacy screens. Moreover, they are either not cold-hardy, are invasive, or both! Luckily, there is a heaven-sent: ‘Heavenly Bamboo’ and its cultivars. Heavenly Bamboo The evergreen shrub Nandina domestica with a bamboo-like habit, Heavenly Bamboo varieties have exciting foliage in shades of green, orange, and red. Moreover, they bear attractive small white flowers and glistening red berries. There’s also a less ornamental but equally effective alternative: Umbrella Bamboo RHS Award of Garden Merit recipient Umbrella Bamboo (Fargesia murielae) is a cold-hardy, clumping variety that is very bushy and fans out. Between 3-4m tall, it can spread to over one metre. This bamboo’s non-invasive nature must rate as a bonus. “Plants like bamboo are good for privacy if you need your plants to come around corners or wrap around a wall,” shares Garden Designer Kate Gould. The narrow leaves are a lovely light, bright tone of green. This species is tough and robust but it will delight you by rustling and swaying in the breeze. “An equally good alternative is Fargesia nitida, which is also a clump-forming rather than running type of bamboo, with some beautifully coloured cultivars,” Roy says. Any of these species can be used to plug a gap or to make a privacy screen. 6) Brick Wall With Integrated Planters, Pegs & Hooks Brick Wall + Hanging Basket + Cascading Flowers = Gorgeous Privacy Screen A neat and tidy brick boundary wall that is a mere 1.5m high, provided it is constructed right, will improve your garden privacy plus provide decorative options and afford much flexibility. You’ll need to build in projecting pegs or hooks, and planters, either integrated into the parapet or as attachments projecting from the top of the wall. Pegs/hooks and planters should alternate with one another and be spaced about 50cm apart. (You could opt for only pegs/hooks or planters, of course.) The pegs or hooks should have an upward curve. Hang large baskets with the shortest of chains on the pegs/hooks. Now in these baskets and the planters put such plants which are dense and whose forms are informally called ‘cascading’ or ‘spilling.’ You’ll want hardy evergreen flowering types, and there are a few great candidates: Philotheca ‘Cascade of Stars,’ various P. ‘WaxFlower’ varieties, Aubrieta ‘Silver Edge’, A. ‘Doctor Mules’, A. ‘Cascade’ varieties, and Aurinia saxatilis. They will make for the most florally ornamental of privacy screens. Tip: Instead of growing plants directly into the integrated planters, put removable planters in them. Then you can quickly and conveniently switch out and switch in plants. 7) Trellis Planters & Vines “Using a trellis with climbers on it is another one that can work for privacy, depending on how high and the level of screening you want,” says Flo. “Growing something beautiful and scented and colourful can also do the trick.” Two or three tactically-positioned large trellis planters covered with a dense climber will make you an ornamental screen that is hard to beat for prettiness and is also portable and adjustable. Trellis planters are available in a variety of materials, styles, and finishes. They are up to 1.5m high which will go up to 2m with the right climbing vine trained over it. Trellis planters are ideal for screening daybeds, trampolines, and the like: when the daybed or trampoline needs to be moved, its screening trellis planter can be moved with it! There are innumerable tender annual vines that are highly decorative; for example, varieties of Nasturtiums and Mandevilla which bear beautiful, fragrant flowers, and ornamental gourd vines. However, annual and deciduous vines will mean you lose your privacy protection after autumn. Evergreen climbing vines will guard your privacy even in winter – wouldn’t your family members like to work out or relax in the garden on a warm winter afternoon? Akebia quinata or Chocolate Vine, also available in varieties ‘Shirobana’ and ‘Cream Flowered’ are semi-evergreen climbers that will be evergreen in many regions of the UK. The foliage varies somewhat between these three varieties but it is very pretty in each. What’s supremely pretty are the strongly-scented unusual flowers and fruit that Akebias produce. And Combinations Galore Mix and Match Climber Rosa banksiae ‘Lutescens’ with any of the Other Evergreens Named Above The privacy-improving solutions spelt out above are amenable to supplementary and complementary combinations that will significantly improve your privacy, while at the same time adding to your garden’s charm and beauty – whilst also providing convenience. “”It’s a case of thinking about garden compartments in your space and you can screen with large shrubs, small trees, tripods with climbers on them, so you can compartmentalise those areas where you really feel like you’re overlooked,” says Ann-Marie. A couple of tall ferns could go in each of two front-side corners. A side boundary could be protected with simple wire fencing with a flowering climber. Evergreen trees on a northern boundary would also provide shelter from the North Wind. Moveable trellis planters would be very handy to fill in awkward gaps anywhere. Or you could simply enclose your garden by mixing and matching the many types and kinds of evergreens mentioned above. References 1. Russ, K. (2022, March 8). Leyland Cypress Alternatives. Home & Garden Information Center | Clemson University, South Carolina. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/leyland-cypress-alternatives/ 2. Wild privet. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/trees-and-shrubs/wild-privet 3. Matteuccia struthiopteris | shuttlecock fern. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/10920/matteuccia-struthiopteris/details
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Garden Designers Recommend These Plants To Get Privacy In An Overlooked Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Trees For Privacy In An Overlooked Garden Trained Trees Evergreen Or Deciduous? Structures With Climbing Plants For Privacy Privacy Hedging Bamboo Screening Ornamental Grasses Perennial Plants Privacy can be one of the most important things in a city or town garden. It can be awful to feel overlooked – and being able to use your garden fully means it must feel like a safe haven – free from prying eyes. In truth, your neighbours are likely not as interested in what goes on in your garden as you might think, but creating a sense of privacy can be important to make sure you can fully enjoy spending time in your outside space. “I think by having complete privacy, it stops us from talking to our neighbours,” shares Danny Clarke, a Garden Designer and Director of the charity Grow2Know. “There might be parts of your garden where you want to have a bit of privacy, but there also might be parts where you can lower garden hedges so you can speak to neighbours. “I don’t believe we should cut ourselves off entirely from everyone around us. We should try and be more connected as I feel we’ve lost that in the last 30-40 years.” Many people who do desire complete privacy will turn to man-made solutions. They will often build pergolas or garden buildings that create private sanctuaries in a garden. But while these solutions can have their place, when it comes to achieving privacy in a garden, plant choices are key. The appropriate planting will almost always be the solution when it comes to tackling privacy woes. The first and most important thing to consider if you want to enhance a sense of privacy in your garden is sightlines. This is all about considering if people can see you at different spots in your garden, and, crucially, where they can see you from. Some people make the mistake of turning their garden into a fortress, completely surrounded by impenetrable planting. Plants in the right places “The archetypal fortress garden will be surrounded by tall conifers planted in straight lines,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It certainly provides enclosure but at the expense of any semblance of attractive place-making. “It invariably also creates conditions that are hostile to growing other plants. “Consider employing a skilled gardener or a garden designer to offer advice or designs for your garden space or buy books or take a short course to develop your own knowledge.” But this can make a garden dark and unappealing – a few carefully placed plants can work far better than blanket border screens. “I think if you think first about where you want your garden to be private, then you’ll have a much lovely garden experience, rather than just blocking out all of the sun,” says Ann-Marie Powell, Garden Designer. “There are lots of plants that you can use, it’s all down to personal choice. You’ve got plants like Clematis armandii or, one of my favourite evergreens, Osmanthus aquifolium. There are also things that are scented or you could use bamboo – it depends on your garden.” Plants can offer a huge range of different solutions, whether you would like privacy from the side, or screening from windows that overlook your property from higher up. Trees For Privacy In An Overlooked Garden Smaller trees closer to seating areas can be more effective for blocking sightlines Of course, some of the most useful plants in a privacy improvement scheme are trees. Large, mature trees can block sightlines from above, and make a garden feel more tranquil and private. But whether or not a large mature tree is right for your garden will depend on the size of the space and where exactly the tree would need to be positioned to provide the requisite privacy. A tree to the north of the space, for example, may not be too much of a problem. But in certain circumstances, such as when a tree would have to be positioned to the south, it may create far too much shade – especially in a smaller garden. Unless you wish to embrace a woodland style garden, and shade planting, this might not be the best solution for you. However, even if you are of the opinion that using a tree or trees for privacy will create too much shade, there are some other options to consider. Trained Trees One thing to consider, for example, is a row of columnar fruit trees, or pleached fruit trees to sit above a fence. Trained trees can enhance privacy, and often without casting anywhere near as much shade as a standard form. Another thing to consider is that a small tree positioned close to a seating or outdoor dining area, placed in exactly the right place, can be more effective for blocking sightlines and improving privacy than a much larger tree placed further away. Evergreen Or Deciduous? When choosing trees for privacy, think about whether you require privacy during the summer months only (when you are actually more likely to be using your garden) or really do want to block sightlines throughout the whole year. Deciduous trees can work best for summer privacy, and evergreens will of course remain clad all year. Bear in mind, however, that evergreens can cast deeper shade, and so a mix of evergreens and deciduous trees can often be best for year-round cover. Structures With Climbing Plants For Privacy If your garden is overlooked from above, another thing to consider is creating structures that are not completely covered, but which can be covered with climbing plants that will add a degree of privacy without making you feel too hemmed in, or too separated from the rest of the garden. A porch, pergola or arbour structure can support a range of beautiful climbing plants, which will screen you from view of the windows of neighbouring properties. Again, you need to think about whether you really need year-round cover, or are happy to be shielded from view only when deciduous plants are in leaf. You can choose evergreen perennial climbers which will provide a permanent screening from above, such as Ivy or Parthenocissus, or opt for deciduous perennials like climbing roses, for example, which will be beautiful during the summer, but lose their leaves later in the year. The structure you create might cover a whole seating or dining area, or a simple hammock or bench seat. How large the structures are and where they are positioned will obviously determine which climbing plants you should choose. You might also consider growing annual climbers up a structure of this kind. These might even be edible crops, and help you make the most of every inch of your garden for food production. Edible climbers like runner beans, squashes etc. can also enhance privacy during the summer, while also giving you an edible yield. Privacy Hedging A Willow ‘Fedge’ If you are more overlooked from the side than from above, privacy hedging could be the perfect solution. Many different shrubs and small trees even can be perfect for inclusion in a hedge of this type. Our favoured approach is to create mixed privacy hedges, with a mixture of evergreen and deciduous plants, which are beneficial to wildlife (and to us) in a range of ways, as well as providing the privacy we crave. Remember, the hedge might not need to be positioned along the borders of your garden. Cypress trees Interesting privacy solutions can also involve, for example, placing a hedge along the front of a patio, to divide it from the rest of the garden and block sightlines to a part of the garden where you want to spend a lot of your time. Again, a shorter hedge closer to a seating area could block sightlines more effectively than a much higher hedge further away. Another idea, instead of a hedge, is a ‘fedge’ (Living fence) of willow or similar. This is a cross between a hedge and a fence, which can offer a beautiful way to create a partial screening between your own property and the neighbours, or a busy path or road. Bamboo Screening Bamboo is another plant that can be useful for adding privacy in a garden. There are a wide range of different bamboos to consider for screening in different environments and situations. Bamboo can grow quickly, and won’t necessarily feel as oppressive as a thick border hedge or treeline. Consider carefully which bamboo to choose – some can easily take over a garden before you know it! But the right bamboos in the right places can certainly help you block sightlines and enhance privacy in your garden. Ornamental Grasses Many other tall plants can also effectively block particular sightlines and create screening between gardens, or between garden zones. Taller ornamental grasses can be useful for adding height and structure and blocking your seating, dining or sunbathing area from view. But with their wispy forms, they will often not feel as heavy or oppressive as larger shrubs or trees. Ornamental grasses in privacy schemes pair well with taller prairie planting too. Perennial Plants A prairie or perennial border could be an alternative for a garden border that obscures views without entirely keeping the exterior out. It can be a softer and more delicate border for a garden, or used to edge a patio or area of decking. Using plants to get privacy, rather than relying on man-made fences or walls can stop your garden from feeling too enclosed, while still giving the sense of seclusion and peace you are looking for. In fact, it is worthwhile remembering that plants, unlike a simple wooden fence, for example, will block sound and even smells to a greater degree. So neighbours are not only less likely to see you, they will be a little less likely to hear or smell you too! One final thing to think about is that privacy is not just about sight. Plants help to create a soundscape in your garden, so your garden chats are less likely to be overheard. If you don’t want neighbours to hear you, you should also think about adding a water feature in your garden. With the sound of wind in the leaves, and the babbling sound of water, sound transmission should be less of a concern.
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