Growing
Beware The Giant Himalayan Lily - These Plants Are A Lot Of Work For Little Reward
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Types How To Grow Himalayan Lily Cardiocrinum Care References Cardiocrinum giganteum, the Giant Himalayan Lily, is a flamboyant and dramatic plant to consider growing in your garden. Though not widely known, this plant is an attractive show-stopper that grows slowly but is well worth the wait. Cardiocrinum is a genus of bulbs in the Lily family, of which the giant Himalayan Lily is the largest, growing up to around 2.5m tall.1 These are monocarpic perennials, which, though they can live for a number of years, will die after flowering. This can mean that these plants take an awful lot of work for such a short flowering window – and I would say this is the main thing to bear in mind when choosing to grow these plants. Overview Botanical Name Cardiocrinum giganteum Common Name(s) Giant Himalayan Lily Plant Type Monocarpic Perennial Native Area South to Central Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Trumpet-shaped flowers like lilies When To Plant February to July The flowers of this plant are prized for their appearance and fragrance and bloom on mature plants sometime between June and August. These trumpet-shaped, lily-like flowers are followed by oblong seed pods that can be kept and dried and used in floral arrangements inside a home. Common Types Cardiocrinum has three species – Cardiocrinum cathayanum, C. cordatum, and C. giganteum, the latter of which is the species most commonly cultivated in a horticultural setting. There are two main varieties of C. giganteum: C. giganteum var. giganteum – up to 3m tall with greenish flowers that are streaked with purple on the inside. C. giganteum var. yunnanense – up to 1-2m tall, with white flowers streaked with purple-red on the inside. How To Grow Himalayan Lily Himalayan lilies are not necessarily the best choice if you have an impatient streak, but growing them successfully and seeing their flowers after your wait can be worthwhile. Sowing These plants typically take 7 years to reach flowering size from seed and they will die after they flower. However, as they grow, the plants will produce bulblets at the base which can be used for propagation. The bulblets will then typically take between 3-5 years to bloom. Since using the bulblets to propagate the plant results in blooms somewhat more quickly, this is often the method used, but these plants can also be grown from seed by very patient gardeners. The seed is best sown in a cold frame or other protected spot in the autumn, as soon as it becomes ripe. Seeds may germinate the following spring but it can take up to 2 years for the seeds to germinate. You will then need to grow on the plants in a protected area such as a greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frame for 3-4 years before you plant them out into their final growing position in the garden. Preferred Sunlight These plants do best in partial shade and will thrive if given woodland conditions similar to those of its native habitat. They don’t like frost pockets or particularly chilly spots, where they may need some additional protection through winter. Equally, they will not do well in a particularly parched, hot and sunny spot, so finding the right balance when it comes to light levels and temperatures can be important. Soil Requirements The soil must be moist yet free-draining and ideally deep, humus-rich and fertile. The specific soil type and pH do not matter too much as these plants can actually cope in a wide range of very different areas. Planting Giant Himalayan lilies are best planted out in spring or autumn, depending on their size and stage of growth. Before planting, be sure to prepare the area well and provide plenty of organic matter to ensure a fertile and humus-rich medium. When planting, the bulb should be lightly covered with leaf mould if possible. Cardiocrinum Care Caring for these large and dramatic bulbs means making sure that you continue to meet their environmental needs over time. Watering Water well during dry spells to maintain soil moisture, but take care not to saturate the site and make sure that excess water can drain away from the planting location freely, even in heavy rainfall conditions. Fertilising Replenish the mulch around the plants each spring and add additional mulch materials in summer to meet the fertility needs of your plants. Propagation As mentioned above, these plants can be grown from seed, but are more commonly grown from the bulblets which are separated from the base of the old plant after it flowers. Overwintering Cardiocrinum giganteum is H5 hardy and can cope with winter conditions throughout most of the UK, even during extreme cold. However, you do need to look out for winter wet, which can cause a number of problems if waterlogging is allowed to occur. You also need to be aware of pests like slugs, mice and voles, which can be attracted to the bulbs and cause damage to them, especially during the colder months of the year. Common Problems Aside from slugs, mice and voles which can cause damage to the bulbs, you will also need to remain vigilant for a number of other problems that can arise when growing these plants. “In particular, as these plants are members of the Lily family, they are susceptible to lily beetle, a small scarlet red beetle which consumes the foliage and flowers of the plant,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “They are best picked off and squished. Be careful not to allow them to employ their defence mechanism where they drop to the ground and become lost in the foliage of plants.” Most of the issues that can arise do so because of problems with the environmental conditions or care. References 1. Cardiocrinum giganteum. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved December 4, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/297145/cardiocrinum-giganteum-from-sikkim/details
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Growing Chionodoxa 'Glory Of The Snow' - A Perennial Bulb Prized For Its Early Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Chionodoxa Where & How To Plant Chionodoxa Care References Chionodoxa, now technically classified as Scilla, is a perennial bulb which is prized as an early flowerer. Also known as ‘Glory of the Snow’, these plants are one of the earliest bulbs to flower in late winter and early spring. Chionodoxa is a former genus that provides a number of different early-flowering bulbs. Overview Botanical Name Chionodoxa / Scilla Common Name(s) Glory of the Snow Plant Type Perennial Bulb Native Area Eastern Europe & the Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Often blue or purple racemes of star-shaped, flat or bell-shaped flowers When To Plant September to October Native to the mountainsides of Turkey, they flower at high elevations.1 Previously categorised as a genus, Chionodoxa is now considered to belong within the Scilla genus as a section, though there is still some disagreement about naming these plants.2 Regardless of their names, they are prized in the UK and elsewhere outside their native range as garden plants, particularly for naturalistic drifts under trees or in grass in a lawn, where, when planted in larger quantities, they can have a dazzling effect. These plants bloom when there are few other blooms around, in the late winter or very early spring, usually around February or March. As spring ephemerals, they are useful for early pollinators and also, since they die back after flowering, they can help catch and store resources in a garden as part of a useful ground cover. Common Varieties Some varieties of Chionodoxa to consider are: Scilla forbesii Scilla luciliae Scilla sardensis These three are the most commonly grown, among some 6 species within this section. The others are S. cretica, S. lochiae and S. nana. How To Grow Chionodoxa These bulbs are easy to grow, but like most plants, it is important to ensure that you place them in the right location to ensure they thrive. Preferred Aspect These bulbs will do best in full sun but can also cope with some light shade. They are fine with any aspect as long as they are not in a location with deeper shade. However, they can be placed below deciduous trees and shrubs as they bloom before they get their leaves. Soil Requirements These bulbs are not particularly fussy about soil type or pH, but they do need free-draining conditions and cannot cope with waterlogged soil or growing medium. Where & How To Plant When choosing where to plant these bulbs, you should not only consider the light and soil requirements, but should also think carefully about the benefits these early-flowering bulbs could bring within the garden design as a whole. Chionodoxa can be planted in a range of different locations. They can be planted to naturalise in grass, in a gravel garden or rockery, towards the front of a border in a cottage garden, below roses or other deciduous shrubs, below deciduous trees or in containers, either on their own or in mixed container garden displays. Wherever you choose to grow them, the bulbs should be planted in the autumn – in either September or October. They should be planted around 5cm deep, with a spacing of 5-7.5cm or so, or with an aim to place around 15 bulbs per each 30cm square area. These bulbs might be placed in a container on their own or alongside other plants. For example, they might be considered for a bulb lasagne alongside other spring-flowering bulbs. They can also look good in larger containers around the edges of other perennial plants or smaller shrubs in mixed winter and spring displays. Chionodoxa Care These bulbs can be a great choice for a relatively low-maintenance garden, though the care will depend on where you have chosen to grow them and plants in pots will typically require more care than those growing in the ground. Watering These bulbs are typically happy with natural rainfall when planted in the ground and too much water is more commonly an issue than too little. Remember, good drainage is very important and to grow these bulbs successfully, you absolutely need to provide free-draining conditions. When growing in containers, bulbs will need more watering than when growing in the ground. Water deeply during dry spells, but always make sure that water can drain away freely from the base of the container you have chosen. Propagation Mostly grown from bulbs, Chionodoxa can also be grown from seed or bulb offsets. If you decide to take offsets from the bulbs, you will do so in summer and pot these on, but these will take several years before they flower. Overwintering Chionodoxa commonly grown in the UK is hardy in all of the UK and northern Europe, with an RHS hardiness rating of H6. They can cope with temperatures down to -15°C. Pruning The only other care to think about is when if at all you should cut back your plants and the answer is that you should not cut back or mow plants growing in grass until the foliage dies back naturally. This is important because it gives the plants the opportunity to store energy in their bulbs as they should and it also allows the plants to self-seed and naturalise within an area. Gardening expert Dan Ori tells us it is normally safe to cut back leaves of Chionodoxa 6 weeks after flowering if they have not fully died back: “However, you can cut down the flowering stems as soon as they are spent,” he adds. Common Problems These plants are typically pest- and disease-free, and most of the common issues experienced when growing them arise due to a problem with the environmental conditions. So, whether growing Chionodoxa in the ground or in containers, ensure adequate drainage and make sure that excess water can drain away freely. References 1. Chionodoxa forbesii (Forbes’ glory-of-the-snow). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust. Retrieved September 11, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/chionodoxa/forbesii/ 2. Trávníček, B., Duchoslav, M., Šarhanová, P., & Šafářová, L. (2009, December 24). Squills (Scilla s.lat., Hyacinthaceae) in the flora of the Czech Republic, with taxonomical notes. ResearchGate. Retrieved July 21, 2023, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/242314535_Squills_Scilla_slat_Hyacinthaceae_in_the_flora_of_the_Czech_Republic_with_taxonomical_notes_on_Central-European_squill_populations
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How Adam Kirtland Uses Tulip Deadheading To Put Energy Back Into The Bulb
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead Tulips 1) Find Tulips To Deadhead 2) The Deadheading Process 3) Compost Your Cuttings 4) Let The Foliage Fade Tulips are a wide range of flowering bulbs that bloom at the very height of spring after being planted out in autumn. Loved for their range of colours and forms, these are a real staple of any spring display. Unlike other spring bulbs, tulips aren’t known to perform as well in subsequent years after their first showing, but deadheading can give them a good chance to come back. Thankfully, it couldn’t be a simpler task: Locate the blooms that are ready to be deadheaded. Using clean secateurs or snips, cut off the spent flower head. Cuttings can be added to compost bins or to your green garden waste. Leave the foliage in place to fade & remove once yellow. We share the entire process (with a visual demonstration) below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or snips When To Deadhead Throughout April and May When To Deadhead Tulips Depending on the varieties you have in your green space, tulips will begin to wilt any time between April and (as late as) June in some parts of the UK, but the standard time to deadhead is usually in May.You can begin deadheading as soon as you see the first blooms fade. To make it an easier job, it is often better to deadhead as you see each flower go. If you don’t deadhead your tulips, the plant will put all its energy into producing seed rather than back into the bulb in an effort to come back the following year. 1) Find Tulips To Deadhead Spent tulips can be slightly camouflaged if grown in a full border or in dense pots, but you’ll usually be able to spot the dropped petals before you notice the empty stem. You can wait for this to happen and then hunt for tulips that have lost part of the full petal set. A spent tulip flower is simply the stem of the plant, with the stamen showing after these petals have dropped off. 2) The Deadheading Process Once you’ve located your tulips to deadhead, you can either cut off the top of the stem or simply snap it off with your fingers, making sure to take the growing seed pod along with you. Ideally, you’ll be leaving as much of the foliage on the plant as possible to soak up the sunlight and provide energy back into the bulb. 3) Compost Your Cuttings Any material you’ve cut off the tulip can go straight into your composting system or into your green waste bin to be collected. 4) Let The Foliage Fade When you’ve deadheaded your tulips, the foliage will begin to turn yellow and fade. This helps indicate that your plant’s current season is complete and you can remove this foliage. Take care not to remove any foliage until it is fully yellow, as you’ll want to allow it maximum time to absorb energy for the bulb. When the foliage is yellow, this too can be cut right back to the base of the plant and composted. “I grow many of my tulips in pots that can be moved after flowering,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “I also plant tulips in pots that can be sunk in the ground and lifted after flowering to prevent having to look at yellowing leaves for weeks.” No other care is required for these tulips and they’ll hopefully be back next year to flower again.
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Deficiencies And Diseases - The 4 Common Causes Of Yellow Leaves On Alliums
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Natural Dieback 2) Issues With Watering 3) Nutrient Deficiencies 4) Plant Diseases References Alliums can be both edible and ornamental plants. Whether you are growing onions, garlic, leeks or other edibles or common ornamental Alliums in a flower garden, these plants can be of great value and are relatively easy to grow. However, whether you are growing Alliums for their vegetables or flowers, problems can arise. One symptom that means that things are not necessarily going to plan is yellow leaves (which can often become brown and wilted in time). Though yellowing leaves are not always a sign of a problem, they can be caused by: The natural dieback of the plant (part of the lifecycle of the plant). Issues with water management – more typically a lack of water. Deficiencies due to a lack of essential nutrients in the soil. Plant diseases like onion white rot and downy mildew, which commonly affect members of the Allium family. You can read more on each of these suggested causes – and the signs to look out for – below. 1) Natural Dieback While yellow leaves can seem worrying, they are sometimes caused by a natural part of an Allium’s lifecycle and are not something to worry about. Leaves can begin to turn yellow and die back even as the plant flowers, so this can simply be the natural course of things and not a sign of a physiological issue at all. Once they begin to die back, the leaves can be removed from the Alliums with no ill effect. Many gardeners will simply ensure that they hide the yellowing leaves on ornamental Alliums with other companion plants that still allow the lovely flowers to be seen. Of course, with edible types like bulb onions, yellowing foliage is a sign to look out for to understand when crops are ready to harvest. Usually, you should harvest crops like onions or garlic when a large proportion of the foliage of the plants has begun to yellow and droop. So, remember, timing is key when it comes to working out whether yellow leaves on Alliums are a sign of a problem or not. If yellowing occurs when natural dieback is expected, then this is unlikely to be a problem at all. 2) Issues With Watering Sometimes, when leaves on Alliums turn yellow before time, this can be related to watering issues. The plants may either have received too much water or too little. Severe drought can potentially cause plants stress and lead to yellowing and then browning leaves. Waterlogging can also be a problem for many Alliums. Alliums generally like and require free-draining conditions and are actually fairly drought tolerant, but when they sit in wet soil, the bulbs can rot which can manifest as yellowing leaves. If the problem is water-related, you might be able to rectify the problem by getting the watering right or improving the drainage in your growing area or container. 3) Nutrient Deficiencies Occasionally, yellow leaves on Alliums might be due to nutrient deficiencies of some kind. It can be challenging without soil testing to determine which nutrients might be in short supply in the soil. However, feeding with an organic plant feed can often help to address any issues of this kind. 4) Plant Diseases One of the more common reasons why Alliums may develop yellow leaves early is, unfortunately, due to plant diseases – to which these plants can be susceptible. The plants in this family, both edible and ornamental, can fall prey to problems like onion white rot and downy mildew, both of which can turn the leaves yellow. With onion white rot, yellowing leaves are one of the first signs that the bulbs are affected, infected by the soil-borne fungus Stromatinia cepivora. Unfortunately, this fungus remains in the soil and is very difficult to eradicate, meaning that you may not be able to grow any Alliums there for many years if this problem arises. Onion downy mildew causes leaves to turn yellow and die back, with white and then purple fungal growth of the fungus-like Peronospora destructor, which spreads from the leaves to the bulbs.1 The problem can spread from one year to the next in infected bulbs in the garden, so bulbs might have to be lifted rather than left in place over winter where this has been an issue. “Both onion white rot and onion downy mildew are more likely to occur in cool, damp summers,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If the former occurs, the disease will recur until a break in the presence of Alliums for a period of years. For the latter, the disposal of infected bulbs may be sufficient to allow growing the following year although spores can persist in the soil.” References 1. Develash, R. K., & Sugha, S. K. (1997). Management of downy mildew (Peronospora destructor) of onion (Allium cepa). Crop Protection, 16(1), 63–67. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0261-2194(96)00056-7
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Deadheading Alliums Is Really Only Necessary To Prevent The Seeds Spreading
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Deadhead Alliums? When To Remove Allium Flowers Deadheading For Aesthetic Reasons When To Not Deadhead Alliums planted for ornamental purposes are also useful for bringing in beneficial wildlife and managing pests in an organic garden. Of course, many members of the Allium family are also common culinary crops. If you choose the right location and care for them correctly, Alliums can reward you in more ways than simply aesthetically. One question that you might have when growing Alliums for ornamental reasons is whether or not deadheading is required; you might also have questions about removing flowers from edible crops. We explore each of these topics in this guide. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Deadhead Autumn (after flowering) Do You Need To Deadhead Alliums? You don’t need to deadhead Alliums at all. There is not really any benefit for the plants and the only reason that you might do so is for personal preference. If you like a very neat and tidy garden and don’t find Allium seed heads attractive, then you may simply decide to get rid of them for aesthetic reasons once they fade. When To Remove Allium Flowers In the case of certain Alliums (those grown for edible bulbs), you may actually have removed flowers before they fade. Edible Allium flowers are often removed in order to allow the plants to focus on creating the bulb rather than on seed production. An interesting side note is that the flowers are edible too, so you can harvest them for use in salads or as a garnish rather than just removing them. Of course, if you have already removed the flowers from Allium plants then you will not need to think about deadheading. Deadheading For Aesthetic Reasons If you do not like the appearance of faded Allium flowers, you can choose to remove these by simply cutting off the stalk on which they grow as close to the base as possible. You can also deadhead if you would prefer not to allow the plants to go to seed. Just make sure that you do not remove any of the foliage before this has naturally started to die back, as doing so can weaken the plant. When To Not Deadhead Personally, I would not recommend deadheading. Like many other gardeners, I find the faded flowers on Alliums extremely ornamental and attractive in their own right, giving a far more long-lasting display than the flowers themselves. “I grow ornamental Alliums partly for the attractive, often long-lasting, structure provided by the seedheads,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “However, for some of the smaller, spreading species, you may wish to remove seed heads to limit the spread.” If you want to create a wildlife-friendly garden, it is definitely also worth mentioning that deadheading is not the best idea. Birds and other wildlife can benefit if you decide to leave the Allium flowers in place for seeds to form. So, if you prioritise nature over aesthetics, even if you personally don’t love the look of the spent flowers, I would say it is better to leave them in place. Of course, you should also avoid deadheading Alliums if you want the flowers to produce seeds. If you want to collect the seeds to sow or wish to allow the plants to self-seed in your garden, then deadheading is again something that you should forgo when it comes to these plants.
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Pruning Alliums Could Be A Waste Of Time - Here's Why You Might Not Want To Bother
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Even Need To Prune Alliums? When To Cut Back Alliums How To Prune Alliums Pruning is not really something that you will have to dedicate a lot of time to when growing Alliums. Depending on which type of Alliums you are growing, you might have to think about removing flowers to encourage the plants to focus on bulb growth. You might also wish to cut back the foliage on Alliums once this dies back in autumn. However, neither of these jobs is essential and it is often best not to deadhead or cut back at all unless you prefer to do so for aesthetic reasons. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Prune Autumn (after the foliage has died back) Do You Even Need To Prune Alliums? Whether or not you will cut back flowering heads or foliage on Alliums is largely a matter of personal preference. Ornamental Alliums are species that are typically cultivated for their flowers. However, other Alliums, such as onions, shallots and garlic, are cultivated for their edible yields. With edible Alliums, you may sometimes have to consider cutting back and removing the flowering heads when these form in order to refocus the plant’s production on edible bulbs. If we are talking about ornamental Alliums, then it is typical for many gardeners to deadhead by removing faded blooms, but this is not necessary and you might gain a range of benefits by leaving the seed heads in place. Refer to our guide on deadheading for more guidance on this, but I prefer to leave dried Allium heads in place because, for one thing, they look rather attractive even once the flowers have faded, retaining a kind of architectural or structural appeal. I also prefer to leave them in place because the Allium seeds are eaten by wildlife, drawing even more beneficial creatures to the garden. Also, when we allow the seeds to mature, we get the possibility of self-seeding. However, if you do not wish for the plants to self-seed or do not like the look of the faded flowers, then you can cut these flowering stalks down to the base. Just make sure that you do not cut foliage on Alliums when this is still green. When To Cut Back Alliums “It is a sad fact of gardening life that allium foliage tends to look a bit haggard when flowering starts, but you must patiently wait 6 weeks after flowering before trimming it or pulling it off if you feel the need to,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist. “I find that mixing alliums with low spreading herbaceous perennials, like Nepeta, disguises the foliage, or it can partly be hidden behind a low hedge – such as Ilex crenata. “You may find the foliage of the yellow Allium moly is more likely to remain in fine form during flowering.” Cutting back any foliage on your Alliums will reduce the amount of energy that the plants are able to gather through photosynthesis and store within their bulbs. Whether we are talking about ornamental Alliums or the common edible ones that we might find in vegetable gardens, pruning or cutting back foliage while the leaves are still green should not be on the agenda. Instead, you should always make sure that you wait at least until the foliage turns yellow and begins to die back. With some Alliums, like those used as annual vegetable crops, you may think about harvesting at this time. With ornamentals, you might want to cut back to keep things neat and tidy at this stage. However, cutting back the foliage once it begins to die back is not essential at all and you can often simply let it die back naturally over the winter months. Not cutting back in autumn can also be a better choice for wildlife in the winter garden, since any remaining foliage and stalks can be useful for insects and other creatures that are sheltering from the cold. How To Prune Alliums If you do decide that you would like to deadhead and cut back Alliums, then it is important to make sure that you do not do the latter too soon. Make sure that you wait until the leaves have begun to die back naturally and have finished photosynthesising before you cut them back. If you are cutting back flowers from edible Alliums to focus the plant’s energy on producing a bigger bulb, then you should cut back any flowering stalks as soon as you see them. If you decide to deadhead ornamental Alliums, simply snip the flowering stalks off at the base with a clean, sharp pair of secateurs or another appropriate gardening tool. Just make sure that you do not take off the foliage at the same time, as this, as mentioned above, is still required for photosynthesis. If you are cutting back foliage of perennial edible Alliums or ornamentals at the end of the growing season as it begins to die back to neaten up your garden, then simply cut off this foliage at the base. The energy that the foliage captured during the summer will be retained within the bulb and, even though you cannot see anything through the winter above ground, new growth will emerge in the spring. With some Alliums, you might lift and divide or store the bulbs for later.
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When To Plant Gladiolus Corms Will Depend On The Species: Follow These 4 Steps
IN THIS GUIDE When To Plant Gladioli 1) Choose Your Variety 2) Decide Where To Plant 3) Prepare Your Planting Area 4) Plant Your Gladiolus Corms Gladiolus is the Latin name for Gladioli, which are popular corms that flower beautifully and make great cut flowers. When you will plant gladiolus bulbs (properly corms) depends on which type and variety you have chosen to grow. In order to plant gladiolus corms effectively you should: Choose which Gladiolus corms to plant. Decide where in your garden you wish to grow them, bearing in mind their preference for open, sunny ground. Prepare your planting area or container, amending the growing medium with organic matter as required. Plant corms at around 3 times their own depth (often around 10-15cm or a little deeper) and around the same distance apart unless growing in containers when they can be closer. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gladiolus corms, containers (if growing in pots), suitable growing medium When To Plant Varies by type When To Plant Gladioli This really depends on the type of Gladiolus that you have chosen to grow. The type we choose will dictate when we plant the corms, along with their correct placement and care. Typically, when considering when and how to plant, we will divide Gladiolus into: Summer-flowering hybrids commonly grown in gardens. Early-flowering types. Other gladioli that are commonly grown in gardens. (like G. mureliae & G. communis subsp. byzantinus). Specialist species of Gladioli grown in containers. Summer flowering hybrids, which account for many Gladioli commonly grown in our gardens, are typically planted between the middle of April and May. Gladiolus communis Successional planting of a few bulbs in batches fortnightly can stagger the crop, which can be useful for a prolonged period of blooms and for longer harvests of cut flowers in a cut flower garden. Early flowering types are typically planted between late March and the middle of April, to flower in June. However, these corms can be planted in the autumn in a cold frame to bring the flowers a little earlier. G. mureliae corms are typically planted in April, while G. communis subsp. byzantinus corms are typically planted a little earlier in the spring. Some early spring flowering species should be planted in the autumn; so it is always prudent to check the guidelines for the specific Gladiolus that you would like to grow. 1) Choose Your Variety Above, we have discussed the main types of Gladiolus that you might be interested in planting. Of course, you will have to decide which of the types listed above you will grow. Remember that each of the different types has some differences when it comes to the growing conditions that they require and how their care must be handled. In addition to this, you will have to narrow things down further and decide not only which type you will grow, but, within that category, which species or cultivar you would like to plant in your garden. There are many species and named gladioli varieties to choose from. 2) Decide Where To Plant Something to consider at the same time as thinking about choosing your corms is where to plant them. Where it will be best to grow your corms will depend on which options you are considering, but, as a general rule, most Gladioli like an open and sunny location, without too much shade or competition from nearby plants. Of course, you will need to know how hardy the gladioli you are considering are and also be familiar with the conditions in your garden, so you can do a little matchmaking and choose the right gladioli corms for the right location. This can be a location in the soil or in a suitable container. Many gladioli are ideally suited to container cultivation and will thrive in pots. Terracotta pots which have good drainage and dry out more quickly are far better than plastic pots for growing gladioli (and are a more eco-friendly choice too). Be sure to ensure that you cover the drainage hole with a crock to make sure that water drains freely. 3) Prepare Your Planting Area In general, it is important to remember that growing healthy plants always requires, first and foremost, a healthy soil or growing medium. When planning to plant corms in a container, make sure you select the right one, and fill it with a general purpose, peat-free potting mix. When planning to plant corms in the ground, make sure that you amend the area before planting with plenty of homemade compost, well-rotted manure or other organic matter. This will help retain moisture, provide nutrients, improve drainage and suppress weed growth to a degree. 4) Plant Your Gladiolus Corms Once you have prepared your container or the growing area for your gladioli, make holes for individual corms or make a trench if you plan on planting a row. “Plant the corms 6 inches (15cm) deep,” says Fred Miller from the Empire State Gladiolus Society. The holes or trench should be around a depth of around three times the height of the corms. Keep a width of around 10-15cm between corms and make sure you plant them the right way up, with the pointy end upwards. “[Always] make sure they are planted deep enough” says Fred when questioned on the most important growing factors. This is important, and you should not plant too shallowly, because if you do this can mean that the plants produce small offspring corms rather than one well-sized corm for you to plant next year. Gently cover over the bulbs (corms) with your compost or soil, and water them in. Top containers with a mulch to retain moisture, especially if growing in pots since these will dry out more quickly. Though gladioli like free-draining conditions, the medium should also remain moist through the growing season. “Place them in full sun, and water as needed, about 1 inch per week (12mm)” says Fred. “Once planted, do not disturb them as the roots are very fine and can break easily.” If you have sandy soil, you may even wish to plant the corms deeper, since this can help to improve the stability of taller cultivars in the wind. In containers, corms can certainly be placed much closer together. “Gladiolus can sometimes feel like they are using up valuable space in a border when they are not in flower,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I grow mine in pots and as they start to form flowering stems I sink the plants into the ground still in their pots. The plants can then be easily lifted back out again after flowering and something seasonal can be put in the spot.”
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Locate Healthy Bulb Offsets To Easily Propagate New Amaryllis Plants For Your Collection
IN THIS GUIDE When To Take Offsets 1) Locate Healthy Bulb Offsets 2) Divide From The Parent Plant 3) Pot Up Into Individual Containers 4) Care For Offsets If you don’t mind waiting 5-6 years for blooms, amaryllis can be grown from seed, but you might be wondering if there is an easier and slightly quicker way to propagate existing amaryllis plants. You cannot exactly take cuttings from amaryllis stems or leaves, but you can if you wish to propagate your plant by means of division. You can obtain new plants from an existing amaryllis by dividing the small bulb offsets from the main bulb. By separating these bulb offsets from the parent plant and potting them up into their own containers, you can obtain bulbs of flowering size, identical to the parent plant, in around 3-4 years. To propagate amaryllis by bulb offsets: Examine the offsets around the main bulb and look for ones with their own roots. Divide these from the parent bulb. Pot each one up into its own pot that is filled with a free-draining peat-free growing medium. Maintain a temperature of around 21°C year-round and water and feed your young plants. Read on for a step-by-step breakdown of the process in full: When To Take Offsets Typically, the division of bulb offsets from a parent plant is a job that you will do during the process of repotting a mature amaryllis plant between January and March. Mature plants usually need to be repotted with a new growing medium at least once every 2-3 years. 1) Locate Healthy Bulb Offsets The first stage involves looking at the existing plant. Remove it carefully from its existing pot and look for the small bulbs forming around the sides of the main one. Look to find one or more bulb offset that looks healthy and which has its own roots. 2) Divide From The Parent Plant Next, gently separate the bulb offsets that you would like to divide and replant from the parent bulb, taking care not to damage the roots. 3) Pot Up Into Individual Containers After potting up the mature plant as you usually would, pot up the bulb offsets into their own individual small containers. These containers should have drainage at the base and be just large enough to accommodate the bulb offsets that you have divided from the parent plant. Fill the containers with a peat-free multi-purpose compost or a homemade mix and water them, making sure excess water can drain away freely. Colin Skelly, an expert horticulturist, explains: “To avoid the risk of the offsets and young plants rotting, I add quite a sharp drainage, usually a horticultural grit or compost up to 50:50.” 4) Care For Offsets Now you simply need to make sure that you maintain the right care for the young plants as they slowly mature. Keep the temperatures at around 21°C throughout the year and don’t induce dormancy as you would for mature plants. Keep watering throughout the year and feed weekly with a compost tea or specialist organic liquid feed for houseplants between April and September. After 3-4 years, your plant should reach the bulb size required for successful flowering and, once it flowers, it can be treated the same as any mature amaryllis plant. Though growing mature amaryllis from an existing plant using bulb offsets will take time and patience, this is a way to obtain more of these beautiful winter flowering houseplants for free. So, this could be an interesting option to consider if you want to expand your pot plant collection.
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Don't Discard Your Amaryllis After Flowering - Repotting Can Bring Them Back To Life
IN THIS GUIDE When To Repot Amaryllis Key Considerations How To Re-Pot Amaryllis Many people will purchase Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) in a pot for the festive season and then discard it once it finishes flowering. However, with a little work, you can keep one of these plants over many years, repotting as required into a new container. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pots, growing medium, trowel When To Prune Late summer or early autumn When To Repot Amaryllis Some people will repot an amaryllis with a new growing medium each year, replanting bulbs after the period of dormancy that they require in the late summer or early autumn. Others, however, keep the bulbs in their pots, replacing only the top layer of growing medium annually and only completely repotting every 2-3 years. If your amaryllis has been grown from seed, the young plants are typically repotted a number of times before they reach maturity, being placed into a slightly bigger pot whenever the roots fill the existing one well. Key Considerations One of the main things to remember when repotting amaryllis is that these are plants that thrive when their roots are somewhat restricted. It is therefore important not to repot in too large a pot and to avoid repotting when the roots do not entirely fill the existing pot. “The type of pot can also make a difference,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Plastic pots, which are waterproof, are great for moisture-loving plants but I prefer terracotta pots for bulbs like Amaryllis that don’t like to sit in compost that is wet. “Terracotta pots are porous, allowing evaporation through the pot, and can help to prevent over wet conditions.” Too much root-free compost around the roots can cause issues with waterlogging, and this can lead to the bulb rotting or cause other issues. Avoiding waterlogged conditions is one of the key considerations when growing these plants, which need reasonably free-draining conditions. Problems with amaryllis, like a failure to flower or fungal disease, are far more likely to be related to environmental problems than they are to be related to a plant that has outgrown its pot. However, as mentioned above, mature amaryllis is likely to require repotting into a new growing medium every 2-3 years to keep it in optimal health. How To Re-Pot Amaryllis The actual repotting process is very simple: Choose a new container and prepare your growing medium. Gently ease the plant from its existing pot. Place the plant into its new pot, remembering that it should sit at the same level as it was previously, with around two-thirds of the bulb above the surface of the growing medium. Ease some of your growing medium around the edges of the pot, firming it gently into place. Water the plant to settle it into its new container. Make sure that you place the pot back in a suitable location, indoors over the winter or outdoors in your garden throughout the summer months. Care for your amaryllis correctly throughout each year, repotting as required, and it will reward you with its beautiful flowers each winter or early spring over many years to come.
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