Growing
Amaryllis Indoor Care: You Can Keep Growing This Plant As A Houseplant After Christmas
IN THIS GUIDE Is Amaryllis Grown Indoors? Indoor Amaryllis Care Amaryllis is the name given to Hippeastrum varieties grown indoors through the winter months, most commonly planted to bloom over the Christmas period. Their vibrant and showy blooms are highly prized for displays inside the home. Amaryllis is frequently purchased in the run-up to Christmas, and sadly, many plants are discarded once the blooms fade. However, with a little care, you can keep amaryllis going over many years and get it to rebloom each year over multiple seasons. Doing so does involve having an understanding of the cycle of this plant and the environmental conditions that this tropical perennial requires at each stage in that cycle. Is Amaryllis Grown Indoors? Amaryllis is indeed a popular houseplant that, while in bloom, will enjoy the conditions that can typically be provided within a home. These tropical flowering plants of South America won’t be able to survive the winter months in the UK outdoors. However, in summer, it is typical for plants in pots to be placed outdoors or in a greenhouse where they can get plenty of sunlight throughout the warmest part of the year. Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly suggests: “Before moving Amaryllis to the greenhouse for winter, I re-pot one pot size larger (and a full pot rather than a half pot used for winter flowering) but still using John Innes no.2. “I find this prevents the compost from drying out, which happens easily on hot summer days. “It also ensures enough nutrients through the main growing period so that plenty of energy can go into the bulb before dormancy.” They will then be brought back indoors in late summer or autumn to enter a period of dormancy before they are replanted the following autumn to bloom again 6-8 weeks later. Indoor Amaryllis Care Amaryllis is typically treated as a houseplant between early autumn and spring, and during this period it is important to provide it with the right conditions and care. Light After planting amaryllis bulbs, they should be placed in a dark spot until shoots emerge. Once a shoot emerges, the plant should be moved to a light bright location out of direct sunlight until it blooms and then be kept there until the flowering period has finished. Once the flowers have faded and been removed, making sure that the plant gets plenty of light is key, since the foliage that emerges needs to photosynthesise and store energy in the bulb for the next year’s blooms. Keep the plant in a bright spot indoors until you place it out in a sunny and sheltered spot in your garden or in a greenhouse, over the summer months. In late summer or early autumn, bring the plant indoors and allow the bulbs to enter a period of dormancy in a dark location, bringing them back to active growth and replanting bulbs in the autumn. Temperature When the bulbs have new shoots, keep them at a temperature of around 21°C until they flower. To prolong the flowering period once they are in bloom, it is best to keep them at temperatures between 15-18°C. After bringing the amaryllis back inside in late summer or autumn, place it in a spot that remains relatively cool, around 13°C, for the dormant period. Soil Fill your pots with John Innes No. 2, or a peat-free general-purpose compost mix. This can either be one that you purchase or a mix you create yourself at home. Make sure that the mix is relatively free-draining but that it can also retain some moisture. Watering Water well during the periods of active growth, keeping the growing medium moist whilst taking care to avoid overwatering. Make sure that excess water drains away freely and never leave the pot in a saucer or tray of standing water. When the plant is ready to enter the dormant phase, cease watering and only resume this after replanting the bulb. Before planting, it is a good idea to soak the bulbs to rehydrate them so they get off to a good start and grow well. Feeding Between when a shoot first appears from a bulb and the end of the flowering period, it is a good idea to feed your amaryllis around once a week with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed. Compost tea is one option, though there are several other organic, homemade liquid plant feed options that you might use. If you follow the process described above and make sure that the plant is provided with the right growing conditions throughout the different phases of its cycle, it should bloom well over many years.
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Potted Amaryllis: Leave 'No More Than 1cm' Between The Bulb And The Pot Edge
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Containers Compost For Amaryllis Potting Up Hippeastrum Potted Amaryllis Care References Amaryllis is the name given to a genus of South American bulbous perennials, Hippeastrum, typically sold to bloom as houseplants over the winter months. The genus has been intensely cultivated and bred since the early 1800s to produce large, dramatic and colourful flowers.1 Amaryllis are almost always grown as container plants, and this is definitely the best way to grow them in the UK. Too tender to grow outside year-round, these plants are typically grown in containers so that they can be grown indoors in winter when they bloom before they are moved outdoors after the last frost. Grown in containers outdoors over summer, the plants are then typically brought back indoors for a period of dormancy before they then rebloom the following winter or early spring. Choosing Containers When choosing a container for an amaryllis bulb, the key is to find a pot that is only just large enough to accommodate it. These are plants that thrive when their root systems are somewhat restricted. “I try to find a pot that fits the Amaryllis bulb with ideally no more than 1cm of compost space between the bulb and the pot edge,” says RHS Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This will vary with the species or cultivar and the size of the individual bulb, so a range of pot sizes is helpful. “Shallower half-pots are ideal as this restricts the amount of compost at the base of the bulb too.” Another important thing to remember is that these plants require free-draining conditions, so it is important to choose a pot that has good drainage at the base to allow excess water to drain away freely. Compost For Amaryllis The container for an amaryllis bulb should be filled with John Innes No. 2 or a peat-free multipurpose compost. Potting Up Hippeastrum When planting an amaryllis bulb, it is a good idea to soak it before planting. Place it in tepid water for a few hours prior to planting, as this will allow it to rehydrate – helping to ensure that it gets off to a good start and can somewhat speed up the rate of growth. When planting the bulb, make sure that around two-thirds of the bulb remains above the surface of the soil, gently firming the growing medium in around the lowest third of the bulb and around the edges of the container. Make sure that the medium is moist but excess water can drain away freely. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? It is best to place a single bulb into a container just large enough to accommodate it. These are showy flowering plants that can enliven your home over the winter or spring months, depending on when the bulbs are planted. They are usually grown as stand-alone specimen plants rather than in mixed displays. However, sometimes three bulbs are planted together as a group within a larger container, again, one that is just large enough to accommodate all three. Potted Amaryllis Care Caring for amaryllis between planting and when the flowers fade is very easy. Getting one to rebloom is a somewhat more complex process, but one that is still relatively easy to undertake. After a shoot emerges, place the amaryllis in a bright spot indoors at around 21°C. Water sparingly until new leaves emerge, but then water regularly, making sure that the growing medium does not entirely dry out, but also ensuring that overwatering does not occur. Don’t let water remain in a saucer or another receptacle below the pot. It is a good idea to turn the pot regularly so that the plant does not become too lopsided due to growing towards the light. Some cultivars have very large flowers and these can benefit from some support, so should be staked. When the plant begins to bloom, typically 6-8 weeks after planting, move it to a slightly cooler location. Ideally, this should be one where temperatures remain between 15-18°C. Avoid a spot with extreme temperature variation and don’t place your plant in a draught. The cooler temperatures can slightly extend the blooming period. Many people buy amaryllis for the festive period and then discard it when the blooms are done, but with a simple process, you can get the plant to rebloom the following year and again over the number of subsequent years. After the plants have flowered, cut down flowering spikes to the base, near the bulb, making sure that the leaves are retained. Grow on the plants indoors, watering carefully and feeding with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed such as compost tea every week or so. During this period, it is important for the leaves to be able to catch and store as much energy as possible, so ensuring plenty of sunlight (or using a grow light where sunlight is scarce) can be key to getting the plant to rebloom. After the last frost date in your area, place the pot containing the amaryllis outside or in a greenhouse for the summer months. Make sure that they get plenty of light, but are protected from the scorching sun when the weather is very warm. Towards the end of the summer or in early autumn, bring the plant back indoors so that it can enter into a period of dormancy. This period of dormancy is crucial for the plants to be able to rebloom. Keep in a cool spot, and stop feeding and watering to induce dormancy. The foliage will die back and can be cut off; the bulbs can remain dormant in their pots or be lifted and moved for storage. After a month or two, you can repot the bulbs, plant as above and resume watering and feeding to encourage new growth. Again, the bulbs should rebloom around 6-8 weeks after replanting. Planting in late September should give certainty of blooms for the Christmas period. References 1. S. (n.d.-b). Amaryllis,. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/amaryllis-hippeastrum/
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Cut Back Amaryllis Flowers As Soon As They Fade, But Keep The Leaves Until Autumn
IN THIS GUIDE When To Cut Back Amaryllis Why Cut Back Flowers? When To Cut Back Foliage Why Cut Back Foliage? Amaryllis is treated by some as a seasonal home decoration, with many plants purchased in the run-up to Christmas and then discarded when the blooming period is over. However, these tropical plants are actually perennial, and when you provide them with the right conditions and care, you can enjoy their blooms in winter or early spring over many years. Cutting back amaryllis is a simple process and not much work is involved. However, making sure that you do this job in a timely fashion will help ensure that you can keep your plant going and blooming well over a number of years. Keep reading to discover all the basic things you need to know about pruning amaryllis. When To Cut Back Amaryllis Cut back the flowers on your amaryllis as soon as they begin to fade. In other words, cut through the flowering stems near the base once the flowers begin to wilt and turn brown. Make sure that you only cut the flowering stems and not any leaves, as the leaves are still very much required over the summer months. Why Cut Back Flowers? Cutting back the flowering stems after the blooms are done prevents the plant from putting any energy into producing seeds. For the plant to rebloom successfully the following year, you want it to put all its energy into producing foliage that is healthy and strong, able to photosynthesise and store energy that will remain in the bulb to produce new growth and flowers after the dormant period. When To Cut Back Foliage It is very important to leave the foliage on your amaryllis plant in place after the flowering period is over, so that it can harness the energy of the sun. It is essential for reblooming to make sure that the plant gets as much sunlight as possible. “Plants essentially eat sunlight, using the process of photosynthesis to create energy,” explains Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Bulbs have evolved to store this energy for later use and, for Amaryllis, this energy is used to begin growth and flower after a dry season. “The energy used for the impressive flowers of Amaryllis has been stored during the previous growing season. “So, make sure your bulb has plenty of sunlight but also regular water and sufficient nutrients to enable the plant to use the energy created by photosynthesis.” Keep it in as bright a spot as possible indoors until after the last frost date in your area and then place it in a bright greenhouse or outdoors in a sheltered and sunny spot. However, towards the end of the summer or early autumn, you need to think about encouraging the plant to enter a period of dormancy. At this time, you should stop watering and allow the foliage to die back. Once the foliage has begun to die back naturally, you can cut it all off at the base. Then, the bulb can enter a dormant phase in a cool and dark location indoors. Why Cut Back Foliage? Removing the foliage from the plant entirely is a good idea for the period of dormancy because it mimics the conditions found in the plant’s native habitat when it enters the dry season and ceases active growth. Removing dead and dying leaves won’t affect the plant, since the energy gathered by the leaves will be stored in the bulb, and removing these dead and dying leaves will prevent any rotting issues that might otherwise arise. Cut back the flowers and foliage according to these instructions, as this is part of the care process that will enable the plant to rebloom annually over many years.
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Getting Your Amaryllis To Rebloom - 'Don't Allow The Bulb To Dry Out' Says Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE Understanding The Natural Cycle 1) Remove Faded Flowers 2) Move To A Bright Location 3) Move Outdoors After The Last Frost 4) Water And Feed Over Summer 5) Move Indoors 6) Repot Bulbs After Dormancy 7) Wait For Your Plant To Bloom Amaryllis are popular Christmas houseplants for many homes, and when planted in September, the bulbs will bring some festive colour to their surroundings. Typically, these plants will bloom 6-8 weeks after bulbs are planted. But once amaryllis has flowered the first time, many people struggle to understand how to get the plant to rebloom. Fortunately, this process is not too complex, but it does involve an understanding of the lifecycle of these plants. Here are the key steps to follow for reblooming: After the flowers have withered cut them off just before seedpods develop or when they have started to develop. When the stalk turns yellow or starts to droop, cut it back to the soil (or ground if your bulb is in a bed). Let the leaves remain – water and fertilise the plant as usual through the summer for about six months as the bulb continues to sprout leaves. This phase is necessary for the bulb to rejuvenate and store reserves before it enters its dormant phase. Make sure that the plant gets plenty of light in the period after first flowering. After the last frost in your area, move the pot outside for summer. Water and feed your amaryllis over the early summer months. Later in summer, let the amaryllis die back naturally and enter the dormant phase (you will notice the leaves beginning to yellow). After the amaryllis has remained dormant for a time, repot the bulbs. Place bulbs indoors and continue care until the plant reblooms 6-8 weeks later. If the bulb is removed, store it in a dry, cool, and dark environment for about two months. Hippeastrum ‘Rilona’ The bulb can be stored in a drawer or closet provided it is dry and the temperature is between 7-10°C. After about two months your amaryllis bulb should be as good as new for re-planting. Continue reading to explore each stage of this cycle and the process of getting these plants to rebloom. Understanding The Natural Cycle Getting an Amaryllis to rebloom involves understanding that in its native surroundings, this plant is used to an environment with moist conditions through 9 months of the year – and a dry season of around 3 months, during which the flower enters a period of dormancy. Ensuring that the plant can enter that period of dormancy is crucial to getting it to rebloom. The idea is that after it has bloomed, the amaryllis must be given the best opportunity possible to photosynthesise and store energy in its bulb before it enters this period of dormancy, from which it can be awakened the following autumn. 1) Remove Faded Flowers For the best chance of success, you should remove spent flowers and their stems from the plant as soon as the blooming period is over. This ensures that the plant does not expend energy on going to seed and instead ensures that the energy goes into foliage growth; ensuring a healthy bulb for the following season. 2) Move To A Bright Location The next phase is crucial in ensuring that the plant is able to rebloom, as the phase after flowering is the growth phase of these plants. It is during this period that the plant stores energy for the blooms of the following year. During this phase, it is vital to make sure that the plants get as much sunlight as possible. This can be challenging in the winter, so a grow light may help, though, more often than not, you can simply place the plant on a sunny windowsill. Water to keep the growing medium moist but avoid overwatering, and provide an organic liquid plant feed such as compost tea. This helps make sure there is healthy growth and that the leaves can grow well, storing energy which is held in the bulb for next year. 3) Move Outdoors After The Last Frost After the last frost date in your area, move the plant in its pot outdoors to a bright, sunny position. During this transition, some leaves may die and fall off, but this is fine and new ones should grow. 4) Water And Feed Over Summer Water regularly, and continue to feed so that plant can store energy before it enters a period of dormancy. Colin Skelly, who has been awarded the status of Master Horticulturist by the RHS, has the following advise for your amaryllis bulbs: “Don’t allow the bulb to dry out, which can happen easily in hot weather with the bulb taking up so much of the pot space. “This is especially true in a greenhouse where the temperature can increase very quickly. “Otherwise, the bulb might be induced into dormancy too early.” In wetter areas, it may be necessary to provide some cover in order to avoid any waterlogging, as the bulbs can rot in overly damp conditions. 5) Move Indoors In August, if you wish to get your plant to bloom again for Christmas, bring your plant back indoors. Place it in a cool location with temperatures of around 10-16°C. Cease all watering and let the leaves die. Once the leaves die, move the bulb to a dark location. You can either keep the bulb in its present pot or remove the bulb and store it for the dormant period. 6) Repot Bulbs After Dormancy Once the plant has had a phase of dormancy, the bulb of an amaryllis can then be repotted and planted in its new container. Choose a container just large enough to accommodate the bulb, replant it in mid-September to October and you can expect blooms around the festive period. Soak the bulbs in tepid water for a few hours before you plant them into new containers. This helps to rehydrate them and can speed up the process of growth. 7) Wait For Your Plant To Bloom Once you have planted your bulbs, place them in a warm, dark place until a shoot appears. Then, once the shoot emerges, move the plant to the position in which it will flower, in a bright location, but out of direct sunlight, inside your home. Water sparingly and make sure excess water can drain away. The amaryllis should rebloom within 6-8 weeks. Repeat this cycle each year and you should be able to enjoy these plants blooming in your home for several years to come.
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Crocus Are Often Grown From Corms, But Did You Know You Can Grow Them From Seed?
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Collect Seeds 2) Sow Seeds 3) Wait For Germination 4) Care For Seedlings 5) Plant Out References Crocuses are typically grown from corms, which are sold for planting in autumn. However, if you want to obtain a large number of crocuses for a larger naturalising project, then you may wish to try your hand at growing these pretty flowering plants from seed. Most spring flowering crocuses are not actually too challenging to germinate and grow on successfully. However, the process does require some patience and a bit of work, since you will need to wait. Here are the steps to follow: Collect the seeds when they become viable in May or June. Sow the seeds quickly before they lose viability. Wait for germination, which usually takes a few months. Care for the seedlings correctly when they emerge. Plant out the seedlings after 3 years in your garden. Keep reading to get more information on each of these steps. Difficulty Medium to hard Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray, soil, cold frame or greenhouse When To Sow Summer When To Plant Out Autumn 1) Collect Seeds The seeds of crocuses can be found within swollen sheaths that are located close to the ground near the base of the plant. These can be carefully collected when they ripen and are mature, which is typically around May or June with spring-flowering types. 2) Sow Seeds “For growing large numbers of any plant, seed sowing is often the best option, but make sure you factor in the cost of pots and compost and also the space that will be taken up before sowing commences,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist with almost 15 years of experience in the industry. It is important to sow the seeds as soon as possible after they are collected as crocus seeds can lose viability quite quickly. Sow your crocus seeds into trays of an appropriate growing medium. The medium should be moist, but it is essential to provide free-draining conditions. Sow your crocus seeds on the surface of the growing medium and cover lightly with horticultural grit. 3) Wait For Germination There are several important things to remember when trying to get crocus seeds to germinate successfully. The first thing is that damping off and other fungal issues can often become a problem, so using an anti-fungal can help mitigate risk. One idea to try is using a copper fungicide or you might also try an organic gardening trick and sprinkle cinnamon in your seed trays.1 Of course, good hygiene is essential and seed trays should be scrupulously clean. You should also take care to provide very good ventilation and free-draining conditions. Another key thing to remember is that crocus seeds need to be exposed to a period of warm and then a period of cold in order to germinate. So, after sowing, it is best to place the seeds in a protected space, but not one entirely insulated from the seasonal changes, like a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. 4) Care For Seedlings If you are successful in getting crocus seeds to germinate, shoots should appear between January and March of the following year. When new shoots appear, it is important not to let them experience sub-zero temperatures as they are very vulnerable at this stage. If you are not careful, they can be killed by being frozen when wet. Make sure they are in a location that does not drop below 1-2°C. It can be warmer but remember, the space must be well-ventilated as damping off and other fungal issues can still arise. Pot on your young seedlings into pots once they are large enough to handle, repotting them into a loam-based compost with added grit for drainage. Repot them each year with a fresh growing medium and feed them with a weak, balanced organic fertiliser, which will help encourage healthy corm formation. 5) Plant Out By their third year, the crocus grown from seed should flower and will be healthy and strong enough to be planted out into your garden. References 1. Could cinnamon oil be used as an alternative to antifungals? (n.d.). Microbiology Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://microbiologysociety.org/news/society-news/could-cinnamon-oil-be-used-as-an-alternative-to-antifungals.html
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Crocus In Pots Are Best Grown With Other Bulbs To Achieve A Cheery Spring Display
IN THIS GUIDE But Can You Plant Crocus Bulbs In Pots? Choosing A Plant Pot Compost For Crocus Planting Crocus In Pots Potted Crocus Care Crocuses are one of the most popular and cheery spring bulbs. We are all familiar with their delightful flowers popping up in sunny glades beneath deciduous trees before their leaves emerge. They also look great when naturalised on lawns or at the front of beds and borders. But Can You Plant Crocus Bulbs In Pots? Crocuses are a wonderful choice for container growing. Small and compact, they can be grown even in relatively small pots and can be grown on their own or with other bulbs for a seasonal display in spring. Combine them with other perennial plants and you might also enjoy a display that can last over a number of years. Growing crocuses in containers does require a little more thought and work than growing them in a more natural way in your garden, but it is certainly not something that is too challenging to do. Choosing A Plant Pot Crocuses have small bulbs (technically corms) that grow into small plants. Though the bulbs will remain alive and burst into new growth each year, the flowers bloom over a relatively short period. This means that crocuses are best combined in containers with other spring bulbs that bloom in the mid and late-spring season, or with other plants that extend the period for which you can enjoy an attractive display. A larger container, one around 40-50cm in width and depth, will allow you to plant crocuses as part of a spring bulb lasagne display or within another mixed display for your garden. One key thing any container bought or made must have is adequate drainage at the base, to provide the free-draining conditions that these spring bulbs require. Compost For Crocus Crocus bulbs are not particularly fussy about soil type, so you don’t need to worry too much about buying or creating a very specific compost type or blend. This is also true of other spring bulbs like daffodils and tulips, so you can simply use any peat-free multipurpose compost mix or growing medium that you either buy or make yourself, with a little grit added to the mix to improve the drainage. Planting Crocus In Pots When planting crocus, you will first have to decide which crocuses you will be growing. The most commonly grown crocuses are those that bloom in the early spring, but there are also those that bloom in autumn, and a few are alpine plants that require more specialist care. Crocuses are typically grown from bulbs planted in the autumn between September and November and you can get away with planting them right up until Christmas, though it is likely that they will bloom later than expected if you plant them this late. Crocus bulbs are typically placed around 7-12cm deep. Make sure that you identify the pointy end of each corm and that these face upwards. If you are creating a bulb lasagne, then crocus bulbs may well make up the top tier of your planting and will be the last to be put into position. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? How many crocus bulbs you can plant in a pot will depend on a number of factors. Of course, you need to consider that pots come in many sizes. Naturally, you also need to think about how many other bulbs or plants you wish to fit into the same container. Potted Crocus Care For most crocuses, place your container in full sun, but make sure you understand the needs and environmental preferences of the particular crocus varieties that you have chosen to grow. Over the winter months, protect crocus bulbs by placing mesh over the top of the plants if squirrels or other pests become a problem. Keep soil moist by watering consistently once green growth emerges if it is dry, but take care not to overwater and always let excess water drain away freely, as Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist, explains: “Although pots outside will require little watering over winter and into early spring, make sure that you check the soil moisture during spells of dry weather. “If the soil dries out you may find that your crocus flowers inconsistently as the plants respond by assuming drought conditions. “I have found that this is most likely to happen in early spring as the weather warms up but you’re not quite yet in the habit of checking watering regularly.” During the colder months, water sparingly if rainfall is lacking, but generally, winter watering won’t be required outdoors. After crocuses flower, make sure you let the leaves remain and die down naturally, so they can work to gather energy that will be stored within the corm for next year. If crocuses become congested, lift and divide the existing clumps in autumn and, if desired, move some of the corms to a different container.
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Look No Further Than Hyacinth For Joyful Springtime Flowers - How To Grow Common Types
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Planting Hyacinth Hyacinth Plant Care References If you want stunning springtime flowers for your garden, look no further than hyacinths. The blooms are borne in dense clusters which then open into charming flowers that are like flared bells opening into curvy stars. They occur in bright, popping colours in cool purples, warm yellows, and hot pinks. Overview Botanical Name Hyacinthus orientalis Common Name(s) Hyacinth Plant Type Perennial / Bulb Native Area Eastern Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Somewhat bell-like and star-shaped face-on, with flared, recurved petals When To Plant September-October When To Prune March-April Hyacinths are most commonly known in tones of blue through violet, but decades of floriculture have resulted in cultivars in rich, deep hues of yellow, orange, pink, and near-red plus white besides more shades in the traditional cool-spectrum colours. Genus Hyacinthus is a member of the Asparagus family, and it includes only three species of which just one, Hyacinthus orientalis, is parent to popular garden cultivars.1 It should not be confused with grape hyacinth, which is a different plant. Though Hyacinthus orientalis is native to the Eastern Mediterranean, these plants have been appropriated by Europe, particularly the Netherlands.2 Each bulb produces several long strap-like leaves of a glossy, bright green hue from the centre of which rises a stalk bearing massed flowers. They are well-known heralds of spring and announce the season with their sweet fragrances that often suffuse the nearby area with heady perfume. Hyacinths, with their densely packed flower spikes, are truly a show-stopping plant. Common Varieties Underneath we run through some of the most desirable common varieties that all bloom between March and April: H. orientalis ‘L’Innocence’ Has pure white flowers that are intensely fragrant. H. orientalis ‘Yellow Queen’ A floriferous variety whose flowers are sometimes light yellow but more often are a rich cream. H. orientalis ‘City of Haarlem’ Bears dense heads of fragrant flowers of a creamy primrose yellow hue. H. orientalis ‘Fondant’ Aptly named because of its bright bubble-gum pink or frosted pink hue, sometimes towards magenta. H. orientalis ‘Jan Bos’ One of the most popular cultivars, producing dense clusters of flowers with a bright pink-red colour that are also intensely fragrant. H. orientalis ‘Blue Festival’ Produces delicate-looking flowers in loose clusters, but unlike most varieties, it sends up two or more flowering stalks. H. orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ Also one of the most popular cultivars with sweetly scented flowers that are a bright purplish-blue. H. orientalis ‘Ostara’ Produces flowers in an unusual shade of purple; a gently glazed, greyish purple. H. orientalis ‘Royal Navy’ Rises to only about 20cm and is a floriferous variety bearing deep blue flowers in dense clusters. Planting Hyacinth Hyacinth bulbs should be planted in the ground pointed side upward at a depth of 10cm so that the pointed side faces upwards. If planting in containers, the best way to do this is to plant the bulb only about halfway into the soil and then add a little more soil around the bulb to the right level. This helps to prevent the bulbs from becoming waterlogged. Gently pat down the soil but do not pack it in. Bulbs should be spaced apart by at least 10cm. When To Plant Early to mid-autumn, specifically September and October, are the best months to plant hyacinth bulbs for spring blooms. Hyacinth Plant Care Preferred Aspect Hyacinths should be sited in full sun. Although a couple of hours of shade is fine, if these plants get too much shade, flowering will be affected. Soil Requirements The best soil for outdoor hyacinths is fertile and loam-based, amended with a little organic content, with an acidic to neutral pH. Soil should not be densely packed and should drain very well. To accomplish this, you may amend the soil with gravel or perlite. The soil must not stay consistently wet as this can bring about bulb rot. Watering Water the plants regularly but make sure not to overwater as hyacinth bulbs are especially susceptible to bulb rot. The soil should remain moist and only be watered again when it has dried out. Reduce the amount and frequency of watering down to about half when the leaves begin to yellow and wither. Continue reducing the amount and frequency of watering, ceasing when the leaves are dead. Fertilising Hyacinths in the open ground need to be fed twice a year. Feed the bulbs in early spring just when the leaves start to sprout with a balanced granular fertiliser to prep the bulbs for the flowering season. In mid-autumn, they should be fed again to replenish the bulb’s energy reserves for the developing embryo. Use the same balanced granular fertiliser and add an equal quantity of bonemeal or other high-potash fertiliser. These fertilisers can be sprinkled on and patted into the soil around 10cm from the bulbs. Hyacinths growing in pots may be fed with a suitably diluted balanced liquid fertiliser. Start in early spring when you see the leaves peeking from the soil and repeat fortnightly. Deadheading When the flowers have withered, the stalk should be cut off from the base. Indoor Growing Hyacinth bulbs are commonly forced for the purpose of getting them to flower indoors during the Christmas holiday season. “Forced bulbs can normally be purchased as garden centres in the early autumn,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. To force the bulbs yourself to flower during the desired time, you have to chill them for about 13 weeks at temperatures between 2-9°C. This can be done in a dark room that is suitably cold, a cooler or even the fridge. After bulbs have been thus forced and then planted, they will bloom in about 3 weeks, so, if you are aiming for Christmas Day flowers, you need to get started in the first week of September. If putting hyacinth bulbs in the fridge, do not keep them with fruit like apples and pears, as these will cause the bulbs to lose their vitality.3 After 13 weeks of chilling, plant the bulbs in a pot filled with a loam-based medium. Initially, this should be kept in a cool and dark place but soon after the leaves sprout shifts the pot to a location where it gets indirect light. When the flower stalk emerges, shift it once more to where it will get sun for most of the day. Storing Hyacinth bulbs can be stored in a cool, dry and dark place, such as on a shelf in a cellar. Initially, they should be left to dry out on a newspaper on a flat surface in a cool, dry and dark room for 3-4 days. After they have dried, put bulbs in a mesh bag and place that on a shelf or in a cupboard in a cool and dark place such as the basement or a shed. Keep in mind that you do not have to dig up hyacinth bulbs that are in the ground outdoors Potted Hyacinth bulbs, on the other hand, cannot just be left in the pot and need to be removed and stored. Propagation Though there are several ways of propagating hyacinths, the one that both tradesmen and home gardeners use most frequently is the offset method. When a bulb is removed from the ground after the leaves are dead, you may see 1-2 very small ‘baby bulbs’ attached to the bulb. Gently separate this offset from the bulb by working it loose just where it is growing from the bulb, taking care that neither it nor the bulb is damaged or breaks. This baby bulb should be planted, watered, and fertilised just like the mother bulb but in proportion to its size. It will need this type of TLC for 3-4 years as it grows and develops sufficient vigour to produce proper flowers. It should be said that hyacinth bulbs are not exactly a costly product so instead of going to the time and trouble of growing new plants from offsets, most gardeners simply buy new bulbs. Common Problems A big plus point for hyacinths is that they do not suffer from the usual pests or diseases that affect bulbs or flowering plants. Slugs can sometimes get to them, but these icky garden pests are not difficult to control or kill. The problem is that squirrels, voles, rats, and mice eat hyacinth bulbs. If you face this problem, you can try to deter these pests by fertilising the soil with bloodmeal, wormwood or garlic. Otherwise, the bulbs may need to be protected from rodents with wire netting. Companion Planting Hyacinths are commonly grown and seen as plants for mass plantings and borders, and as beautiful springtime specimen plants positioned close to the home. They are also kept as indoor plants, usually during the holiday season. Hyacinths and other spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils are sometimes used as companion plants for each other. Primroses would set hyacinths off most attractively, with each plant, assuming that the varieties are well-chosen, complementing the other wonderfully well. References 1. Household and Garden Plants. (2006, January 1). Science Direct; Elsevier BV. https://doi.org/10.1016/b0-72-160639-3/50022-8 2. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.-e). Hyacinthus orientalis. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://dps007.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/GH/Hyacinthus 3. Wallace, G., & Jauron, R. (2017, October 4). Yard and Garden: Forcing Hyacinth Bulbs Indoors During Winter. Iowa State University: News. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-forcing-hyacinth-bulbs-indoors-during-winter
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Exploring Snowdrop Varieties With Jane Rowlinson, Galanthus Grower At Morlas Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Nursery Varieties 1) G. nivalis 2) G. nivalis ‘Anglesey Abbey’ 3) G. ‘S. Arnott’ 4) G. nivalis ‘Alan’s Treat’ 5) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Pusey Green Tips’ 6) G. nivalis ‘Sandersii Group’ 7) G. nivalis ‘Scharlockii’ 8) G. nivalis ‘Virescens’ 9) G. nivalis ‘Green Tear’ 10) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Flore Pleno’ 11) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Bagpuize Virginia’ 12) G. ‘Atkinsii’ 13) G. elwesii 14) G. elwesii ‘Mary Biddulph’ 15) G. elwesii ‘Ransom’s Dwarf’ 16) G. elwesii (Hiemalis Group) 17) G. elwesii ‘Polar Bear’ References Snowdrops produce bashful little bells that emerge from the snowy ground by February and nod their three-petalled snowy white blooms from arching stems. A light, fresh fragrance tops off snowdrops’ delicate charms. Snowdrop bulbs are something of a collector’s item, particularly in the UK. Interestingly, the UK is only an adopted home to Galanthus plants, which were naturalised in the British Isles several centuries ago.1 “Snowdrops are one of those plants people love to collect,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Their intricate variations captivate many growers to continually seek out new varieties. Avid lovers of snowdrops may pay almost a couple of thousand pounds for a single bulb of a choice new cultivar. “I personally find they look more natural if just one variety is selected for each area of the garden, such as one cultivar for around the base of a tree, and a different one to drift through a border.” Nursery Varieties We asked Jane Rowlinson, specialist Galanthus grower from Morlas Plants, about some of her favourite snowdrop varieties – and she had lots to share with us. “My favourite yellow snowdrop is Galanthus ‘Primrose Warburg’, as it is very easy to grow and has a nice blueish tinge to the leaves. G. ‘Primrose Warburg’ “When grown in large swathes in a sunny spot it produces a stunning display. “Galanthus ‘Trumps’ is the best of the green-tipped cultivars. A very quick grower, it looks fabulous planted amongst red-stemmed cornus plants. “The best double for me has to be G. ‘White Swan’, a tall elegant growing snowdrop that is easy to grow and was the first rare snowdrop I had in my collection. G. ‘Trumps’ “Although the named cultivars are nice to grow, you still cannot beat G. nivalis for making white carpets in a garden or woodland setting. “Inexpensive to buy and easy to grow, every garden in the UK should have at least one clump of them to help the bees and to bring a spot of cheer during the winter months.” Peter also shares his favourite varieties to grow: “If you just cannot wait for snow until you see snowdrops, G. reginae-olgae is an autumn flowering cultivar, which can start blooming as early as September. “Some cultivars, such as G. ‘S. Arnott’ make good cut flowers, where their honey-like fragrance can be enjoyed for a long period in a small vase.” Below, I share seventeen of my favourite snowdrop varieties for you to hunt down and grow. All of the varieties listed below are H5 hardy (suited for all areas of Britain) and can be grown in an exposed area with any soil type. 1) G. nivalis COMMON NAME(S): common snowdrop FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread As it happens, the species plant is one of the least showy in its genus, growing to around 12-15cm tall with drooping flowers that are around 2.5cm in length. What’s more, the inner tepals have green markings at the tip. The common snowdrop is one of the first snowdrops to appear and can bloom from as early as January. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 2) G. nivalis ‘Anglesey Abbey’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘anglesey abbey’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Perhaps no other variety is as likely to produce a pure-white flower as ‘Angelsey Abbey’. This cultivar is similar to the species in every respect, except that on some plants, all flowers may be entirely white, wholly skipping the green markings. “Where this occurs, and the inner tepals almost match the outer length, this is known as a poculiform snowdrop,” explains Peter. 3) G. ‘S. Arnott’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘s. arnott’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Very similar in many respects to the mother plant, ’S. Arnott’ features flowers that eventually open out almost fully, looking quite like tiny propellors aimed downward. The inner tepals have a mark like an inverted ‘V’, which often comes in a brilliant shade of green. This variety is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 4) G. nivalis ‘Alan’s Treat’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘alan’s treat’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Producing more of a half-open than half-closed look, ‘Alan’s Treat’ has pale green, smudge-like markings on the outer sides of the tepals and very prominently so on the outer ones. It has unusually long inner tepals and can rise up to 15cm tall. These delightful flowers emerge in February. It too can have a poculiform flower. 5) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Pusey Green Tips’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘pusey green tips’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0-0.1m spread Among the most diminutive of snowdrops, ‘Pusey Green Tips’ reaches no more than 10cm in height. Much like ‘Alan’s Treat’, it too exhibits that half-open look. Its flowers have a pronounced, virtually vertical droop, and all 6 tepals have fairly bright green spot-like markings near the tips. 6) G. nivalis ‘Sandersii Group’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop sandersii group FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Also dubbed yellow snowdrops, these flowers are often tinged yellow at the point where the stem meets the flower. They also have distinct yellow markings near the tips of the inner tepals. Since this variety opens up a little more than usual, the yellow-marked inner tepals are often visible. It can reach 15cm tall and is one of the early bloomers. 7) G. nivalis ‘Scharlockii’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop scharlockii group FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread This cultivar has a special feature because the pendent bells of ‘Scharlockii’ droop from a fairly long split spathe, meaning the flowers nod from in-between two green horns. The outer tepals have highly variable markings, from delicate shading in pale green to an inverted ‘V’ in mid-green. The inner ones, however, bear consistent green marks at the tip. 8) G. nivalis ‘Virescens’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘virescens’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A cultivar that is fairly standard in respect to its size, season and floral form, ‘Virescens’ features the most unusual and delightful floral colourings. Each outer tepal carries a long and thick prominent mark quite like a brushstroke in shaded pastel green while the inner tepals are solid deep green with a narrow white border. 9) G. nivalis ‘Green Tear’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘green tear’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Green Tear’ has its own claim to fame. First, though, this cultivar properly welcomes spring as it does not precede the season but rather ushers it in. The outer tepals have a streaky smudge in pale green while the inner ones bear more solid, deep green marks that may cover nearly the entire surface. What makes this variety special is that quite often two bells will dangle from each stalk. 10) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Flore Pleno’ COMMON NAME(S): double snowdrop FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0-0.1m spread A popular and sought-after double-form variety, ‘Flore Pleno’ is distinguished by several sets of inner tepals that look rather like frilly skirts. These ‘skirts’ are decorated with streaky smudges of green, sometimes further adorned with yellow or orange markings. Though the dimensions of the plant and flower are similar to other cultivars, it is the form and colour of the flower, an especially fragrant one, that makes this cultivar so special. This variety has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 11) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Bagpuize Virginia’ COMMON NAME(S): double snowdrop ‘bagpuize virginia’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread More difficult to source than ‘Flore Pleno’ is another double form – ‘Bagpuize Virginia’. This big variety can reach 20cm tall. The inner tepals have double layers with notches and are marked with a bright green inverted ‘V’, while the outer ones are more discreetly marked with green spots. 12) G. ‘Atkinsii’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘atkinsii’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Breaking the mould for snowdrops, ‘Atkinsii’ can reach a commanding height of up to 25cm! Matching its height, its flowers’ tepals have a plumper appearance than those of other cultivars. The outer tepals are pure white; the inner ones display a conspicuous inverted green heart. Unsurprisingly, this is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 13) G. elwesii COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread The informal name for species type is the greater snowdrop, as this plant can grow between 25-30cm tall. It features flowers that are just a little bigger than other snowdrops that also have green markings like an inverted ‘U’ at its petals’ tips and at the bases. Flowers often settle at a perfect half-closed, half-open form. It is among the earliest to come into bloom and varieties of this have received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 14) G. elwesii ‘Mary Biddulph’ COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop ‘mary biddulph’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread ‘Mary Biddulph’ is similar to the species with a couple of special twists. The half-open pendent flowers have a shield over them in the form of a prominent curved bract. In addition to this, the inner tepals have conspicuous green smudges that are often connected by narrow lines, as if they have been etched on. 15) G. elwesii ‘Ransom’s Dwarf’ COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop ‘ransom’s dwarf’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread At only about 15cm tall, ‘Ransom’s Dwarf’ is a short variety that still produces fairly large flowers. With blooms that look a little too big for the plant, the overall effect is cute and humorous. This cultivar’s inner tepals are prominently blotched in green at the bases and tips. 16) G. elwesii (Hiemalis Group) COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop hiemalis group FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Very special in yet another way, the ‘Hiemalis Group’ features standard snowdrop flowers with green blotches at the tips of the inner tepals. What distinguishes this group of cultivars is that they are among the earliest to bloom and can produce flowers as early as November, ending its blooming season before the arrival of spring. 17) G. elwesii ‘Polar Bear’ COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop ‘polar bear’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Not easy to find, ‘Polar Bear’ is actually a double play in rare attributes among Snowdrops. Firstly, its flowers face upward, and secondly, the outer tepals are wide open. As a result, its flowers look like little propellors, except they are directed upwards. The inner tepals are virtually half green, which is of a deep shade. References 1. Snowdrop. (n.d.). PlantAtlas. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://plantatlas2020.org/atlas/2cd4p9h.ymh
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Collecting Snowdrop Pods: 'Sowing The Freshest Seed Will Give The Best Results'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare Pots 2) Sow Galanthus Seeds 3) Wait For Germination 4) Keep Seedlings Moist 5) Pot-On In Individual Containers You don’t have to wait for the usual spring bulbs to awaken to be able to welcome in spring, as many snowdrop varieties flower from February! These tiny charmers average around 15cm in height with similar spreads, bearing bell-shaped flowers that are pure white and are often marked or edged in tones of green. Although these stunning flowers are usually grown from bulbs, you can also grow snowdrops from seed, but be warned – it’s quite tricky! Luckily, I’m able to talk you through it; you can grow snowdrops from seed by following these steps: Prepare the pots for sowing – special seed-sowing compost is preferred. Sow the snowdrop seeds taken from the pods of existing plants or acquired from a local provider. Wait for germination to occur – Galanthus will typically look like blades of grass in the early stages. Keep the seedlings moist, then feed regularly in their second year. Pot on the young plants when they are large enough, then plant out when ready. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Gardening gloves, hand shovel, trowel, labels When To Sow October 1) Prepare Pots Prepare 9cm pots with seed compost or seed starting mix. John Innes seed-sowing compost from a reputable maker is a very good option. Give it a good water, making sure that the growing medium is moist. 2) Sow Galanthus Seeds “I grow a lot of Snowdrops from seed each year, so I am always hoping that I will discover an exciting new seedling in flower for the first time,” says Jane Rawlinson, Owner of Morlas Plants. You can either collect seeds from the pods of existing plants in spring or acquire them from your local (or online) plant nursery. “Sowing the freshest seed will result in the best results,” explains Jane. “Look for a seed pod that is turning yellow and almost splitting open, then either place the pod directly into the ground with a label or put it into a pot. “You can also take the seeds out of the pods and thinly sow them into the ground or pot.” Sow seeds thinly by gently nudging them into the medium and cover with a 1cm sprinkling of coarse sand or grit. Four seeds per one 9cm pot is a good sowing rate. “They don’t need to be buried deeply and are best covered with a fine layer of grit,” adds Jane. Dampen the medium. Though you may use a sprayer, a watering can with a rose will work very well. “To avoid dislodging seeds, pots can be placed in a tray of water for half an hour to soak up the moisture they need,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. 3) Wait For Germination Place the pots outdoors in a cold frame located in a sheltered spot where it should receive some sun. As winter departs, snowdrop seedlings should emerge. The seedlings will look more like blades of grass than anything else. Now is when the real work starts, as you will have to keep the incipient plant going until it becomes a viable bulb, which can take up to 4 years. “Sowing snowdrops requires patience and labels!” jokes Peter. “As the seedlings will be dormant for the majority of the year, make sure you label your sowings with a plant name and date of sowing. Otherwise, you could mistake them for an empty pot. “Your labels will need to last. I’ve tried all sorts of labelling methods and generally recommend pencil, because it has proven the least likely to fade. “Plastic labels are a good option because, unlike wooden lollipop sticks or similar, they don’t rot. Pencil markings can simply be rubbed off and the label re-used many times over.” 4) Keep Seedlings Moist Keep moderately watering the seedlings so that the soil stays continuously moist. This also includes watering during summer and autumn dormancy when the foliage has died back and all you have are empty pots. “If growing in pots, make sure the compost is free draining and that it doesn’t get too wet as the seed will rot, but also do not allow the seeds to dry out at any point,” says Jane. From the second year, start to feed the little plants once a month with a diluted liquid all-purpose fertiliser. 5) Pot-On In Individual Containers In the plants’ third year, pot them on into individual containers. You should use a suitable 9cm or 13cm pot that has been filled with moist, peat-free, manure-based compost. I’d recommend that you pot on in March or April when you see the foliage yellowing and withering. The leaves will allow you to trace down the bulbs, no matter how tiny they may be and wherever they may be located. Using the foliage as a guide, you can re-plant the bulbs to the same soil depth that they were at before. Once repotted, cover the bulbs, pat down the soil and water them in. Continue as before, making sure that the soil stays moist so that the tiny bulbs do not dry out. After 1-2 years the bulbs will have matured and will be good to go in open ground.
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