Growing
This Is How To Grow Muscari 'Grape Hyacinth' With Some Favourite Types To Try
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Muscari Grape Hyacinth Care Guidelines References Muscaris are useful spring bulbs that can be grown in pots or containers, in a bed or border, or sometimes naturalised in lawn or meadow. There are a number of different species of grape hyacinth to consider, some of which are best suited to specific locations in the garden. They are relatively easy to care for but there are some important rules to follow when growing them in your garden – all of which we cover in more detail below. Overview Botanical Name Muscari Common Name(s) Grape Hyacinth Plant Type Bulb Native Area South Asia and North Africa Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Dense clusters of grape-like flowers When To Plant Autumn When To Prune After flowering Muscari is a genus of perennial bulbs which contain anywhere between 30-60 species.1 This genus provides us with a number of spring bulbs grown as ornamental plants in UK gardens. These are commonly known as grape hyacinths, named after their flowers, which, held on short dense spires, look a little bit like a bunch of grapes. Although they have the word hyacinth in their common name, they are not closely related to hyacinths at all. The genus originated in central and southern Europe, the Mediterranean basin, northern Africa and central, western and southwestern Asia and has since become naturalised elsewhere, including in Northern Europe and parts of the United States.2 Common Varieties M. armeniacum One of the popular species grown in the UK is Muscari armeniacum, from the east Mediterranean. The flowers of this species can be purple, blue (sometimes with a white fringe), pink or white and they bloom in April and May. M. armeniacum ‘Blue Spike’ M. armeniacum ‘Blue Spike’ is a varietal with larger, double flowers and works well naturalised in grass or alongside other spring bulbs in a container display. M. latifolium Another species commonly used as an ornamental is M. latifolium which is a broad-leaved hyacinth grape that has deep purple flowers in April and May. M. aucheri There is also M. aucheri, another spring bulb from Turkey – also a popular ornamental awarded an RHS Award of Garden Merit. There are a number of named cultivars of this species available too. There are many species and many named muscari bulbs used in UK gardens to choose from if you decide to grow a member of this genus. How To Grow Muscari Muscari is typically grown from bulbs, planted in autumn, though, as you will find out below, it is a plant that can also be propagated in a couple of other ways. These spring bulbs can be planted at the front of a bed or border and look lovely along a lightly shaded pathway. They also work well on a sunny or slightly shaded woodland or forest garden edge. Muscari can be great as part of a wildlife-friendly planting scheme, since growing these spring ephemerals catches water and nutrients in the spring, and provides a nectar source for pollinators early in the year. They spread easily, which can be delightful in some locations, but, of course, is not always wanted. They can also be contained or also work in small spaces, as they are also suited to growing in pots or other containers. You can plant them in containers on their own, but they also work very well planted in displays alongside other spring bulbs. Grape Hyacinth Care Guidelines Fortunately, these bulbs are very easy to care for and are pretty low-maintenance plants, so there is not a great deal that you will have to do. Soil Requirements The most important thing when growing muscari is to make sure that it is grown in moist but well-drained soil. The soil type is less important, as grape hyacinth tends to be relatively unfussy in that regard, coping with a range of soils and pH levels. However, these bulbous perennials will not thrive in waterlogged or overly damp conditions. Watering Grape hyacinths growing in the ground will typically not require watering, except perhaps during exceptionally long dry spells. In containers, of course, you will need to keep up with watering through summer to make sure the growing medium does not dry out entirely. Feeding Muscari tends to do very well and spread without much intervention. You will not usually have to worry about feeding them. If you wish, you can mulch around the plants with organic matter and they should have all they need. Pruning & Deadheading If you wish, you can deadhead your muscari after flowering so that it does not set seed. You should also lift and divide grape hyacinth while it is dormant over the summer months, to maintain the vigour of the plant and to limit its spread where desired. “Without dividing clumps, Muscari would be rampant in my garden,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I tend to remove clumps whilst still in the green, so that I can still see where the bulbs are but after I’ve enjoyed the flowers. “These can be potted on or replated elsewhere. I think they look best where they can be allowed to run free, particularly under deciduous trees and shrubs. “They are also great in pots, either on their own or in a bulb lasagne.” At the end of the season, some people will cut away dead and dying foliage in autumn, but you can simply leave these alone, as this is usually simply for aesthetics on the whole. Leaving perennial foliage in place through the autumn and winter is also better for the wildlife in your garden. Propagating Though muscari is usually grown from bulbs, it can also be propagated by means of division in summer, and also by saving seed and sowing it in spring, though this latter option is not really worthwhile since the other two options are so much easier. Common Problems Grape hyacinth is generally untroubled by pests and disease, as this really is an easy crop to grow. However, it can sometimes be affected by viruses. The most common issues arise not due to a pest or disease, however, but due to unsuitable environmental conditions. These bulbous perennials will not thrive in an area where the ground becomes too wet and waterlogged. If grown in an overly damp location, the bulbs may rot. References 1. Wraga, K., & Placek, M. (2013). Review of taxons from genus Muscari cultivated in Department of Ornamental Plants in Szczecin. Herba Polonica. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from http://www.herbapolonica.pl/magazines-files/4146481-Pages%20from%20Herba_3-47.pdf 2. Mahr, S. (n.d.-d). Grape Hyacinth, Muscari armeniacum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/grape-hyacinth-muscari-armeniacum/
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Grape Hyacinth From Seed Will Take Years To Reach Maturity, But It Is Possible
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Grape Hyacinth 1) Collect Seeds 2) Decide On A Method 3) Sow Your Seeds 4) Harden Off Plants 5) Plant Out In Autumn Muscari is a bulbous perennial that is typically propagated by means of bulbs planted in autumn or through the division of existing clumps to retrieve bulb offsets in summer. However, should you wish to obtain new plants for free, you could consider saving seeds from your own or a neighbour’s plant to sow. If you are considering growing muscari from seed, remember that, although it is a cheap way to obtain new plants, it will take several years for grape hyacinth sown from seed to reach the point of maturity where it will flower. If you have patience and are not deterred, here is the process involved when growing muscari from seed: Collect seeds from an existing plant. Decide whether to sow the seeds you have collected right away in a cold frame outdoors and grow them on until the following spring or cold stratify the seeds for 3 months and sow them indoors the following spring. Sow your muscari seeds in a suitable growing medium. Place seedlings in a suitable location to harden them off before transplantation. Plant out around a year after sowing in autumn or in spring. Read on as we share each of these steps in greater detail below: When To Sow Grape Hyacinth Muscari seeds can either be sown directly after they are collected and placed in seed trays or flats in a cold frame over winter, or kept in cold storage until they are warmed up and sown indoors in early spring. 1) Collect Seeds After Muscari has flowered in April or May, seed pods will develop on the plants if the faded flower spires are not removed. If you want to simply let the plant self-seed then you can leave these seed pods to mature, split open and spill their seeds. If you want to collect the seeds, wait until the pods are just beginning to split open and collect the seeds within each one to sow. 2) Decide On A Method If you have decided to collect seeds and take matters into your own hands, then you will have to decide which method to use. The first option is to sow the seeds right away after you collect them and place them in a cold frame outdoors. The other option is to opt for sowing the seeds indoors in spring. In this case, you will need to keep the seeds in the refrigerator to mimic the natural period of cold in winter, then sow your seeds indoors into seed trays or seed flats in early spring. 3) Sow Your Seeds Once you have decided which of the above methods to use, you will sow your seeds into a light and moist yet free-draining seed-starting compost, covering them lightly with soil. If you are sowing outdoors in a cold frame, keep the frame closed, watering sparingly over the winter months, and green growth should emerge in spring. If you are sowing indoors, it is best to cover over the seed tray or flat with a clear propagator or cloche until the green shoots emerge, which will usually be in 6-8 weeks. 4) Harden Off Plants If growing in a cold frame, open the lid to an increasing degree as spring arrives and the weather begins to warm to slowly acclimatise the young seedlings to outdoor conditions. If you have sown the seeds indoors in early spring, harden the plants off by moving them outdoors for increasing periods of time. 5) Plant Out In Autumn Keep a close eye on your young plants and keep the medium moist but avoid overwatering. Typically, muscari is planted out in autumn, though you may also plant out your young plants the following spring. 2-3 years after sowing the seeds, your grape hyacinth should have grown to the stage of maturity where it is ready to flower. Remember, you might also simply let the plants self-seed for flowers in the coming years with little to no effort on your part, but growing muscari from bulbs or dividing existing clumps are far easier ways to get more of these plants for your garden. “Muscari is a strong spreader, both from division of bulbs and self-sowing,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I find I have to divide clumps every spring to keep them in check. In doing this, I remove large numbers of self-sown muscari. “Unless you wanted to propagate very large numbers, take advantage and harvest the seedlings to increase numbers or plant elsewhere.”
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12 Ornamental Oxalis Types With Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol
IN THIS GUIDE 1) O. acetosella 2) O. adenophylla 3) O. articulata 4) O. enneaphylla 5) O. ‘Ione Hecker’ 6) O. massoniana 7) O. melanosticta ‘Ken Aslet’ 8) O. oregana 9) O. tetraphylla ‘Iron Cross’ 10) O. triangularis subsp. papilionacea 11) O. tuberosa 12) O. versicolor Closing Thoughts References Oxalis is a large genus of flowering plants with over 500 species from across the world that belong to the Oxalidaceae plant family.1 Many of those most familiar to UK growers will be the species grown as ornamental plants outside and sometimes as potted plants indoors. There are a huge number of oxalis varieties that you might grow here in the UK. Here are some of the interesting options to consider: 1) O. acetosella COMMON NAME(S): alleluia HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: part shade Oxalis acetosella, the common wood sorrel, is a plant native to the UK. It is a rhizomatous perennial that spreads to make a carpet of shamrock-shaped leaves and bears little funnel-shaped white flowers with fine pink veining between spring and mid-summer. It thrives in fairly fertile, well-drained soil, rich in organic matter, in dappled shade. “In the wild, it grows in woodlands and shaded hedgerows and is an indicator of ancient woodland, where it can be found in large swathes,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. 2) O. adenophylla COMMON NAME(S): sauer klee HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: part / full shade Also known as sauer klee, this is a clump-forming bulbous perennial that grows to around 15cm in width and around 10cm tall. It has greyish leaves and bears bright rosy-pink flowers with purple throats in late spring. This oxalis variety grows well in reasonably fertile, well-drained soil in full or partial shade, and is great for a rock garden or alpine planting. This plant holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), meaning it performs reliably in the garden. 3) O. articulata COMMON NAME(S): pink sorrel HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: part shade / full sun Pink sorrel is another rhizomatous perennial. It is deciduous, forming clumps up to 45cm tall when in flower, with a spread of 0.5-1m. It has clover-like bright green leaves on long stalks and bears its bright pink flowers on long stems through the summer months. This type grows best in moist, well-drained soil, in sheltered conditions in full sun. It can also be grown in a container inside an alpine house. “In dry conditions, O. articulata will become dormant, with its leaves dying back, but it will quickly grow back in wetter conditions and is hard to kill,” shares Roy. “It’s often grown as a houseplant or a border perennial.” 4) O. enneaphylla COMMON NAME(S): scurvy grass HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun Also known as scurvy grass and holding the RHS AGM, this rhizomatous, mat-forming perennial grows around 20cm wide and up to 10cm tall. It has slightly fleshy leaves and rosy-pink, funnel-shaped blooms, around 2.5cm in diameter, borne in late spring and early summer. Grow this oxalis variety in reasonably fertile, well-drained conditions in full sun. 5) O. ‘Ione Hecker’ COMMON NAME(S): wood sorrel ‘ione hecker’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun This little clump-forming rhizomatous perennial grows around 8cm tall and up to around 10cm wide and holds the RHS AGM. It has blue-grey leaves and funnel-shaped pinkish purple flowers, darker veined, around 3cm across, borne in summer. Grow this variety in full sun in fairly fertile, moist, humus-rich soil or growing medium, or in a container in an alpine house. 6) O. massoniana COMMON NAME(S): masson’s wood sorrel HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: orange and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun A South African plant, Masson’s wood sorrel is a dwarf bulbous perennial that forms small clumps. It has little delicate leaflets in whorls around fine stems and pale orange flowers with bright yellow eyes which are borne in autumn. Typically grown in a container in an alpine house, this option is H2 hardy. 7) O. melanosticta ‘Ken Aslet’ COMMON NAME(S): oxalis ‘ken aslet’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun A small oxalis specimen that grows up to 10cm tall and 10cm wide when in flower, it has pale green, silver-haired leaves and yellow funnel-shaped flowers that appear in autumn. Grow this option in a well-drained, sandy, low-nutrient soil or a very free-draining growing medium, in a sheltered and sunny position, or in an alpine house. 8) O. oregana COMMON NAME(S): redwood sorrel HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: pink, lilac and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: part / full shade An interesting option for ground cover in a shady, woodland spot, the redwood sorrel is a creeping perennial with clover-like leaves and bears white, pink or lilac flowers from spring to autumn. This is a native of western North America. Grow in moist but well-drained fertile soil; in full or partial shade below mature trees. 9) O. tetraphylla ‘Iron Cross’ COMMON NAME(S): oxalis ‘iron cross’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun This herbaceous perennial grows to around 15cm tall when in flower. The leaves are clover-like with dark brown crosses at the base of each one that gives this plant its name. The flowers, which emerge from late spring to late summer, are funnel-shaped and bright pink in hue. Grow in a well-drained, nutrient-poor soil or growing medium, either outdoors in a sheltered spot or indoors in a container. “This is a useful plant for those dry, sunny positions such as at the base of a wall where space is limited,” says Roy. 10) O. triangularis subsp. papilionacea COMMON NAME(S): purpleleaf false shamrock HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: part shade Known as purpleleaf false shamrock, this is a deciduous bulbous perennial that produces purple foliage from spring through to autumn and white or pale-pink star-shaped flowers in the summer, before entering a period of winter dormancy. You can grow this outdoors from spring to autumn and bring indoors for winter, or grow it year-round as a houseplant indoors in a bright, cool space. 11) O. tuberosa COMMON NAME(S): oca HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade If you are looking for new, interesting edible crops to try growing in a greenhouse, oca could be an interesting option to try. The edible tubers are a staple crop in South America and other regions. You can grow oca in containers with a loam-based potting compost with added grit under glass in bright filtered light, with low humidity, and place plants outdoors through the summer. 12) O. versicolor COMMON NAME(S): striped-flowered wood sorrel HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: red and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Also known as candy-striped wood sorrel, this bulbous perennial grows around 8cm tall and forms clumps of light green leaves, topped with funnel-shaped white flowers with crimson margins, which gives a striped effect when the flowers are in bud. It blooms between late summer and winter. Grow this variety in a humus-rich growing medium in a sheltered spot in full sun or partial shade. Closing Thoughts “Some species of Oxalis are a real nuisance as weeds, so I’d advise to watch out for these and remove them as soon as possible,” says Roy. “In particular, the creeping Oxalis corniculata, an annual with small yellow flowers which develop into exploding seed pods and allow it to spread around the garden, Oxalis debilis with pink flowers which produces lots of small bulbils which are easily spread around the garden by digging, and Oxalis latifolia, again with pink flowers and which has both exploding seed pods and bulbils, making it even easier to spread around!” There are plenty of other oxalis varieties that you might grow in your garden, under cover or indoors, but the above options are a good place to start when looking for the right oxalis for you and your garden. References 1. Oxalis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000622-2
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Planting Out Saxifraga Bulbs In Autumn - They Work In Pots Or As Ground Cover
IN THIS GUIDE When To Plant 1) Source Your Bulbs 2) Prepare The Growing Area 3) Plant Your Bulbs 4) Water In Well Saxifraga is a genus of flowering plants commonly known as ‘Saxifrages’ or ‘Rockfoils’. There are hundreds of species in this genus, many of which are useful and versatile plants to grow in containers, in a rockery, a dry meadow, or in an alpine garden scheme. They are mostly mat-forming in their growth habit and create a good ground cover. Saxifraga bulbs are best planted in pots between September and early November. “Most Saxifrage species are perennial but some are biennial or annual,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “The bulb species are spring-flowering woodland plants and are great for underplanting or for pots and containers.” If you would like to grow Saxifraga varieties from bulbs, here is the process to follow: Select a variety to grow and source your bulbs. Prepare a suitable container or growing area. Plant the Saxifraga bulbs 2-3cm deep and approximately 10cm apart. Water in well, then, if growing in containers, leave outdoors in pots to flower the following spring or early summer, or transplant young pot-grown plants to the garden in spring. When To Plant Saxifraga bulbs should be planted in the autumn, ideally in September or October. You can plant them up until December, though it’s important to note that the bulbs you keep will not store and remain viable into a second year. 1) Source Your Bulbs There are a number of different saxifraga bulbs that you might choose to grow in your garden; selecting which bulbs to grow is the first part of the process. One excellent option that I would recommend for a low-maintenance location with free-draining conditions is S. granulata ‘Flore Pleno’. This white-flowered gem can work well in containers, borders, as ground cover around the fringes of a fruit tree guild or forest garden, or in a gravel garden or rockery. 2) Prepare The Growing Area You can plant small Saxifraga bulbs directly into the soil where they are to grow. However, for best results, it is often beneficial to plant these in containers first, since this gives the plants the opportunity to become established without too much competition. Choose a free-draining container (or, if growing in the ground, make sure drainage is adequate) as free-draining conditions are essential. To grow Saxifrages in pots, fill your containers with a peat-free multipurpose compost or a homemade equivalent, amended with horticultural grit to improve drainage. 3) Plant Your Bulbs Next, plant the Saxifraga bulbs. Remember, whether you are planting them in the ground or in containers, they should be placed around 10cm apart from one another, and should be covered with around 2-3cm of soil. 4) Water In Well Finally, water your Saxifraga in well after planting your bulbs. After this, you are unlikely to have to water over the winter months. Just make sure, come spring, that you water if there is a dry spell where you live. Generally, these low-maintenance plants will tend to themselves when growing outdoors and will require very little ongoing care. When placed in a suitable location, plants should bloom well over the coming years.
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How To Grow Saxifraga Types: Popular For Rockeries, Pots, Stone Walls And Ground Cover
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Saxifrage Saxifrage Care Guidelines Managing Spreading References Saxifraga is the name given to a section of saxifrages which are mat-forming, evergreen perennials. They are popular for growing in rockeries, containers, stone walls, and as ground cover or bed edging in free-draining locations. Overview Botanical Name Saxifraga Common Name(s) Saxifrage Plant Type Perennial Native Area Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating H4/H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Flowers with 5 petals in shades of white, pink, yellow or red When To Plant September-November Saxifraga is a large genus within the Saxifragaceae family. The genus is said by Kew Royal Botanic Gardens to contain 475 accepted species of mostly perennial plants, commonly referred to as ‘Saxifrages’ or ‘Rockfoils’.1 The plants in this genus are inhabitants of Arctic-alpine environments, and they are rarely found outside temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. However, they grow in many temperate regions, including those that are at high elevations, and even in glacial habitats. Many Saxifraga species and hybrids derived from them are now frequently cultivated as ornamental plants in UK gardens. They are often used as ground cover and for rock or alpine garden planting schemes. Many are hardy and most can remain outdoors year-round, though some do require protection from winter wet. Common Varieties There are far too many species of saxifrage that you might grow to name them all, but some of the most popular and highly regarded species and cultivars are: S. fortunei S. paniculata S. marginata S. x urbium S. x arendsii S. oppositifolia ‘Splendens’ S. sempervivum S. stolonifera How To Grow Saxifrage Saxifraga can be relatively easy to grow, both in the garden and in containers. The most important thing to consider when growing these plants is providing the right growing conditions. Most will do best in full sun or light shade. Note that when growing saxifraga, while all members of this genus share some characteristics and requirements in common, there are different groups that require somewhat different conditions. Some are less fussy, some need full sun, whilst some need a little more moisture and do best in partial shade. One other very important consideration is where you will grow the saxifraga that you have chosen. Some will be wonderful at the front of a bed or border; others look wonderful in a stone trough, growing on a stone wall or in a rockery. Alpine types, naturally, work wonderfully in an alpine garden planting scheme. Some saxifrages can spread prodigiously, while others are smaller and more delicate plants that could get lost in too fussy a planting scheme. As such, choosing the right option for your needs and wishes is important. Saxifrage Care Guidelines When they are chosen wisely and placed in the right location with the right growing medium and shade levels, saxifrages are pretty low-maintenance plants that typically won’t require a huge amount of care and attention. Soil Requirements Saxifrages typically require well-drained conditions and alkaline or neutral growing medium or soil. A moderately fertile soil or growing medium is best for most types. Providing a well-drained medium is the most important thing, as overly damp or waterlogged conditions are the main thing that can cause a problem in their care. Watering When growing in the ground, saxifrage of most types and species will require little additional watering, except during prolonged periods of drought. When growing in containers, you will typically need to provide some water more frequently, but should still be circumspect in the amount of water you provide. It is often a good idea to mulch around saxifrage plants with grit or gravel to prevent waterlogging around the crown of the plant. Feeding In a moderately fertile growing medium, additional feeding will not typically be required for most saxifraga varieties. Pruning & Deadheading No pruning is required, though, if you wish, you can prune off faded flower heads. Propagating The method for propagation of saxifraga will depend on the particular species and variety that you are growing. However, most are grown from either seeds, offsets or purchased as plants, and some can be grown from bulbs. Common Problems The most common problem that arises with many saxifrages is excessive water or waterlogged conditions. These are plants that must have well-drained conditions and failure to provide these can lead to a range of problems, especially in winter. Mature clumps of saxifraga can also turn brown, old and woody at the centre if they become too congested. To keep the plants healthy and looking good, you should divide mature clumps in the spring once they show signs of getting a little old at the centre. Aside from this, these plants can be susceptible to infestation from aphids, vine weevils and red spider mites. They can also be eaten by slugs. Managing Spreading Saxifrages do spread well, though some will be mat-forming and spread out over a larger area while others will remain smaller and make compact cushions of foliage and flowers. “In one garden that I have worked in S. x urbium, London Pride, grew on the surface of a granite outcrop,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Initially planted to the side of the rack, it spread into the mossy growth on the top and eventually spread across the whole rock and was dense enough cover to prevent other plants from germinating. “Many other species are more diminutive and less able to stand up to any competition.” Some form rosettes, while others spread to form carpets over an area of the ground or another location, such as the surface of a stone wall, for example. If you want a plant to spread and create good ground cover, it is important to choose the right saxifraga species for the situation. References 1. Saxifraga. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002955-2
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Potting Up Iris Rhizomes - These Plants Grow Really Well In Containers With The Right Care
IN THIS GUIDE Should You Grow Irises In Pots? Choosing Suitable Containers Potting Up Iris Rhizomes Potted Iris Care Irises are a varied group of flowering plants which are suited to growing in a wide range of different situations, from borders to garden ponds. However, if you are considering growing irises, you might be wondering about container growing. Should You Grow Irises In Pots? “Many of us have small gardens and container growing is a prerequisite,” explains Simon Dodsworth, owner of The English Iris Company. “Tall, bearded irises grow really well in pots as long as you provide the correct care.” As Simon says, almost all irises can be grown in containers as long as they are given the right environment and cared for correctly. However, the irises best suited to container growing are those which like full sun and free draining conditions: bulb irises and border irises. Bulb irises are the most common choice for container growing, but shorter types of border irises can also often work very well in pots. Taller species can also be grown in containers, but will usually require some support. Choosing Suitable Containers When choosing a container for irises, one key consideration will be which specific iris you plan to grow, as they can vary significantly in size. Iris reticulata Smaller bulb irises, like Iris reticulata, will grow to around 15cm tall and need to be spaced just 5cm or so apart. However, some border irises can grow up to 1m in height and require a lot more space. When choosing a container for irises, you will not only need to consider the size of the plant and its specific requirements, but also its age. “Choose a pot that is wide and shallow, rather than one which is narrow and deep,” says Simon. “Depending on how many irises you want to grow, I would recommend starting with one that is 38-44cm across and 20-26cm deep. This will allow you to plant at least five irises. “You could also try something smaller and start with planting three and see how you get on. For this, use a pot with a width of 28-33cm and a depth of 20-26cm.” Remember that most bulb types and border irises require free-draining conditions, so make sure that the container you choose has drainage holes so that water can drain freely from the base. “Fill the base of the pot with crushed-up plant pots or brick rubble, with a mix of coarse gravel to ensure good drainage,” Simon suggests. Irises which like free-draining conditions should be planted in a general-purpose potting mix with some horticultural grit mixed in, or a homemade equivalent. “I use a peat-free compost with plenty of pea shingle mixed in for my potted irises,” says Simon. However, remember that the medium must also retain water reasonably well and you should mulch the top to help aid in this. Potting Up Iris Rhizomes Bulb irises can be planted on their own in a container or as part of a mixed bulb lasagne planting scheme alongside a range of other spring ephemerals. Plant the bulbs as soon as possible after you purchase them. Bulbs are typically planted at a depth of twice their height, though for more long-lasting container displays, planting iris bulbs at least 15cm deep can be beneficial. Planting at this depth can mean that the flowers bloom more reliably the following year. Border (rhizomatous) irises which come in containers are potted up in much the same way as any other perennial. “Leave the top of newly planted iris rhizomes exposed so that they can be sun-soaked during summer, but be careful to work the soil back in amongst the roots to anchor the plant well,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. New border iris rhizomes are planted between July and October, while potted irises should be potted up between March and mid-November. How Many Rhizomes Can You Plant Per Pot? At a minimum, bulb irises should be planted around 5cm apart for longer-lasting displays or around bulb width apart for a seasonal container display. It is a good idea to layer different irises which bloom successionally for a blooming display through spring and into the summer. Individual border irises purchased in pots should usually be placed into a container just a little larger than the one in which they came, though you could also consider growing these in a larger container alongside other plants which like similar growing conditions. If planting more than one border iris, note that larger plants require 30cm between them and dwarf plants should be placed around 15cm apart. Simon recommends planting tall bearded irises at a spacing of 22cm. Potted Iris Care Water iris bulbs but take care not to overwater when grown in containers. Aim to keep the soil for all irises that like free-draining conditions moist, but remember that they don’t like sitting in waterlogged soil. Otherwise, Iris bulbs are very low-maintenance. Just leave the foliage to die back naturally after spring flowering. With bearded irises, remove any yellowing leaves through the season if desired and deadhead when the flowers have turned brown or wilted. “Apply bone meal or seaweed feed to your potted irises,” says Simon. “Also, be very vigilant for slugs and snails.” If you no longer wish to pot up border irises, you can divide the plant and place the sections each in its own pot.
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Why The Biggest Threat To Most Irises In Winter Is Not The Cold, But The Wet
IN THIS GUIDE Caring For Potted Types Caring For Border Irises Caring For Irises Near Ponds Irises, when grown in the right location, can be hassle-free and relatively easy plants to grow. They are typically fully hardy in the UK and require little specific winter care. However, when thinking about how to care for your irises over the coldest months, this guide will cover everything you might need to consider. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Container, mesh, mulch, secateurs Caring For Potted Types The biggest threat to most irises in winter is not the cold, but the wet. Most potted irises need free draining conditions. Problems can arise if winter rainfall is heavy, especially if the growing medium or the container do not provide sufficient drainage. “Adding some extra horticultural grit to your potting mix can make a big difference to the drainage of a pot,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If planting in the soil, a handful of grit in the bottom of the hole can help drainage around the bulb.” Bulb irises which have been planted into containers in autumn will mostly remain below the surface of the growing medium until spring. To keep them safe over the winter, it can be a good idea, where squirrels and other pests may be an issue, to place a piece of mesh over the container so creatures cannot get to the bulbs. Sometimes, bulb irises growing in containers will be brought indoors as flowering houseplants, kept outdoors or in an unheated greenhouse until the buds open. Caring For Border Irises Border irises sown in the ground can also be vulnerable to winter wet. In this instance, it is a good idea to make sure that the area is sufficiently free-draining before winter begins in order to avoid any issues that may crop up in overly damp conditions before spring. Most irises grown in UK gardens will not require additional protection from the winter cold. However, in particularly chilly locations where extreme winter weather is expected, it is a good idea to mulch around the base of the plants. Cover the soil around the plants with an insulating layer of organic matter, such as straw or autumn leaves. However, make sure that the mulch material is light and dry, as very heavy and damp mulches can do more harm than good. Caring For Irises Near Ponds Cutting back moisture-loving irises in the shallow water at the edges of a pond or in its boggy margins is a good idea. By November or soon thereafter, you can cut back all the stems and foliage right to the base. This will make way for new growth as it emerges, and will also prevent the material from falling into the water. Excessive foliage decaying on a garden pond can upset the balance of the local ecosystem, so cutting back in late autumn or early winter is good both for the irises and for your pond.
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Anemone 'Windflowers' - These Vigorous Growers Are Perfect For A Woodland Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Popular Varieties How To Grow Anemones Anemone Plant Care Common Problems References Anemones can be a great choice for many locations, but choosing the right variety and caring for it correctly is important. In this guide, we aim to make your job a little easier. These are perennial plants which can grace your garden over a number of years, with flowers coming in a range of different hues. Overview Botanical Name Anemone Common Name(s) Windflower, Japanese Anemone Plant Type Perennial bulb Native Area Temperate and subtropical regions Hardiness Rating Varies Foliage Deciduous Flowers Varies Anemones belong to a diverse genus in the buttercup or Ranunculaceae plant family.1 Usually, cultivated Anemones are in bluish-violet, white, pink or red, or gradations between these colours, though there is also a yellow species. Typically, horticultural experts divide Anemones into 3 main groups: Spring flowering woodland and meadow species, which are often grown from tubers or rhizomes that are sometimes referred to as ‘bulbs’. More tender spring and summer-flowering specialist species with tuberous roots. Species which flower in summer and autumn, most of which have fibrous roots. Popular Varieties Spring flowering species that are popular in UK gardens include: A. nemorosa Our native woodland Anemone. A. coronaria Bold and colourful flowers. A. blanda Varied daisy-like flowers and many beautiful cultivars. A. apennina With narrow, violet petals. A. ranunculoides A European native with yellow flowers. Some summer and autumn flowering Japanese Anemones include: A. hupehensis A. x hybrida There are also specialist Anemones which are not as easily grown, though these are popular with more experienced gardeners who are able to provide them with the more specific conditions that they require. How To Grow Anemones Spring flowering woodland Anemones typically thrive, of course, in dappled woodland shade, though there are types which can cope with full sun in certain situations. They are an excellent choice for a woodland garden. Mediterranean and alpine types prefer full sun and often require a warmer and more sheltered spot with more free-draining soil. They can work well in sunny, free-draining borders, or in rock gardens. These can often also be grown in containers, which can be beneficial in providing the right conditions for more tender types. Japanese Anemones are generally easy to grow and can thrive in many situations, including in shady spots. They typically thrive in partial shade but can also work well in full sun as long as the soil or growing medium does not dry out. They can spread to form large clumps once established and are considered ideal for the middle or back of perennial borders, but there are also smaller options which can work well for smaller spaces or even containers. These plants are also considered to be a great choice for wildlife-friendly gardens, as they attract a range of pollinators to their late summer and early autumn flowers. Planting The dormant rhizomes or tubers of woodland Anemones are typically planted in autumn to flower the following spring. Tubers of Mediterranean Anemones are typically planted in early spring indoors to force earlier blooms to display or outside in spring. Container-grown Anemones are usually planted out just as they are coming into flower. Japanese Anemones are best planted in the spring or the autumn, though they can be purchased and planted at other times too as long as they are watered during establishment. Anemone Plant Care Caring for Anemones begins with choosing the right Anemones for your situation and your growing environment, and ongoing care will also differ depending on which types you have chosen to grow. Soil Requirements Woodland Anemones need rich and relatively moisture-retentive soil that has plenty of organic matter, though they can cope with drier conditions beneath trees as they go dormant over the summer. Mediterranean and alpine types need a free-draining sandy soil or growing medium and absolutely cannot tolerate waterlogging, as they dislike damp conditions. Japanese Anemones are vigorous growers and will thrive if provided with a rich and fertile growing medium or soil. The growing area should have plenty of organic matter. They like soil that can remain moist, but also cannot tolerate waterlogging. Watering Newly planted spring-flowering Anemones must be watered regularly until established, though care should obviously be taken, especially with Mediterranean or Alpine types, to avoid overwatering. A number of spring-flowering types require a dry spell in summer when dormant. Japanese Anemones will need to be watered well at least during the first summer. Once established, however, they should require additional watering only during prolonged dry spells or when grown in containers. Fertilising All Anemones should be mulched with a layer of organic matter each spring to provide slow-release fertility, suppress weeds and aid in moisture retention in the soil. However, when grown in suitable soil with plenty of organic matter, they should not need any additional feeding. Staking Even though the stalks of Japanese Anemones grow rather tall, these flower stems are sturdy so staking will not typically be required. Pruning & Deadheading No pruning or deadheading is required for spring flowering types, but you can, if you wish, remove faded flowers and foliage to keep the plants looking their best. Deadhead Japanese Anemones to encourage further blooms over a longer period, but desist before the end of the season. It is best to leave the faded growth in place in autumn rather than cutting this back, as this provides shelter for wildlife over the winter. Instead, leave Japanese Anemones alone until early spring, then simply cut off old flower stems and dead foliage at the base of the plant before new growth starts. Propagating Some woodland Anemones will self-seed readily, propagating themselves without your assistance when happy in the environment. Woodland Anemones with fibrous roots can also be propagated by division when dormant or as the leaves die down. Many spring-flowering types can also be propagated by collecting seeds and sowing these straight after collection in a moist yet free-draining seed-starting medium. The offspring of cultivars may differ from the parents, which can provide interesting results. Most spring-flowering Anemones can also be propagated by means of rhizome or tuber division, while dormant, and these plants will be clones of the parent plant. Propagate Japanese Anemones by dividing established clumps in the spring. This creates clones of the parent plant, though it should be noted that plants can be slow to recover, and may take a year before they flower again. Root cuttings can also be taken in the autumn months, without digging up the clump. These should establish and flower within a couple of years. Lifting & Transplanting Some more tender Anemones can be lifted over the winter months and taken indoors or under cover. Generally, however, lifting and transplanting should be kept to a minimum, and certainly avoided during hot dry periods when the risk of transplant shock is greatest. Japanese Anemones should be disturbed as little as possible. Lifting and transplanting mature clumps can often cause a lack of flowering or growth. Overwintering Note that some Anemones may not be fully hardy in colder regions over the winter. A thick layer of organic mulch can be laid around the plants to protect them for the coldest months. Container-grown specimens can also be brought indoors over winter to protect them from frost and from excessive winter wet. Japanese Anemones will die back over winter but dead foliage and spent flower heads can stand in place as a shelter for wildlife and will burst into new growth in the spring. Common Problems Spring-flowering Anemones are usually healthy and trouble-free when you provide them with suitable growing conditions. However, some can be vulnerable to diseases like Anemone smut, powdery mildew and leaf spot.2 Japanese Anemones are also generally hassle-free and are even resistant to common pests like slugs, snails and rabbits. However, they can experience certain issues, such as powdery mildew, leaf browning or yellowing, which can commonly occur in dry conditions. Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is a fungal infection which can be quite common where Anemones become too dry. Water well and mulch to ensure moist soil and reduce overcrowding to make this issue less likely to occur. Where it does, remove and destroy affected plant material as soon as possible. Plum Rust One interesting thing to note is that Anemones may not be the best choice for planting below a plum tree, because they can host plum rust, a disease which can spread from one to the other. This causes small yellow spots to appear on the tops of leaves and brown powdery patches to appear underneath. Slugs & Caterpillars Slugs, snails and caterpillars can also sometimes be issues, especially on tender young spring-flowering types. As mentioned above, Japanese Anemones are pretty resistant against slugs. Leaf and bud eelworms can also sometimes cause minor damage. Preventing Spreading As mentioned above, some woodland Anemones can self-seed readily in the right environment. Japanese Anemones do spread and can do so very vigorously, so this is something to bear in mind when choosing where to place them. Spreading can sometimes be very beneficial but can be a problem where space is limited, and once established, Anemones can be difficult to clear. “I love Japanese Anemones (A. hupehensis & A. x hybrida), particularly combined with grasses in early autumn,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “However, they will take over a border if given the chance and have a tendency to pop up where they weren’t intended. “This is not necessarily a problem, but some annual removal is usually needed to keep them in balance with other plantings.” References 1. Ranunculaceae Juss. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000277-2 2. Seawright, J. (n.d.). Anemone Smut. dorsetnature.co.uk. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.dorsetnature.co.uk/pages-gall/g-341.html
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Planting And Growing Vibrant Asiatic Lilies With Lynn Slackman
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Where To Grow Asiatics Planting Asiatic Lilies Ongoing Plant Care Common Varieties Problems & Pests Asiatic lilies are possibly one of the most colourful and vibrant bulbs that can be grown in the garden. Although typically unscented, Asiatic lilies are available in almost every colour under the sun and are one of the first lilies to bloom in summer. As one of the shorter varieties of the Liliaceae family, they are perfect for growing in pots and containers or for the middle or front of the border. “I use Asiatic Lilies in pots and containers where their shorter height comes in handy compared to the taller Oriental Lilies which can be a bit tall for anything but the largest pots,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “What the Asiatic Lilies lack in fragrance they make for in visual punch.” This guide features Lynn Slackman, the current President of the North American Lily Society. “I’ve been growing and caring for plants for as long as I can remember,” says Lynn. “Like all plants, proper care and growing conditions are important. The beauty of lilies offers a reward like no other.” Overview Botanical Name Lilium asiatica Common Name(s) Asiatic Lily Plant Type Ornamental Bulb Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow, orange and red flowers When To Plant September-November When To Prune July-August Asiatic lilies, as their name suggests, originate from parts of Asia and are much less fussy when it comes to growing them when compared to the rather similar Oriental lily. Sadly, the majority of Asiatic lilies are unscented, unlike the oriental varieties, but don’t let this put you off as they are available in the most wonderful array of colours, ready to suit any planting scheme. “Lilies put on a show in my summer garden,” Lynn says. “They don’t take up much space and reward me with amazing colours, size, fragrance, and beauty that is unsurpassed.” Grown from bulbs, they develop deep green and glossy leaves with their upward-facing blooms triumphantly displayed at the top of the stems. Although generally shorter when compared to other lilies, they still pack a punch and are brilliant at providing a burst of colour into the garden. Where To Grow Asiatics Asiatic lilies flower best when given as much sun as possible, although they can cope with partial shade. When choosing where to plant the bulbs or place their container it is best to aim for at least 6 hours of sunlight a day, in order to get the best from them. Lilies usually grow on straight stems, however, if grown in the shade beware that they may tend to grow towards the light, even at an angle. Asiatic lilies grow best in fertile and moist, but well-drained soil. However, they hate to be allowed to sit in wet or water-logged soil as this can cause the bulbs to rot. Unlike oriental lilies which require an ericaceous soil, Asiatic varieties prefer a neutral to alkaline pH. Planting Asiatic Lilies Lilies, along with many other bulbs and plants tend to look best when planted in an odd number, three, five or seven as a group tends to work. Even three in a small pot is surprisingly effective, as the bulbs soon multiply leading to more flowers in the subsequent years. Lily bulbs are usually quite large and need to be planted deep, and Asiatic bulbs are no exception. Where at all possible the bulbs need to be planted at least 10-15cm below soil level and at a spacing of 15-30cm depending on their variety and eventual size. I’d recommend planting Asiatic lily bulbs from autumn onwards, right up until April, apart from when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. Asiatic lily bulbs are hardy generally down to temperatures of -10 to -15°C and require little protection over the winter in the south of the UK. However, in colder parts of the UK, it may be necessary to cover those directly planted with mulch or fleece or move pots undercover during very cold spells. When purchasing lily bulbs, they should be firm to touch and mould-free and ideally be planted soon on arrival, as they can dry out if left too long. The principle for planting directly into the ground or in a container is the same, although if using a container or pot it is especially important to check for drainage holes, as these are essential to avoid the bulbs rotting in wet soil. Before filling the pot with compost, it is worth adding some drainage material first, such as some crocks or gravel to allow any excess water to drain away freely. Fill part way with a general-purpose peat-free compost and arrange the bulbs at the required depth with the roots facing down and the tips pointing up and top up with compost. If the compost feels too dense, it is worth adding some horticultural grit to the mix to increase its drainage. Water after planting and keep the soil moist, but not wet. “Lilies need to have their roots in the shade and their heads should be able to float in the sun,” Lynn advises. “Adequate moisture during hot and dry conditions is essential.” Ongoing Plant Care Feeding Lilies in general are heavy feeders, so it is advisable to add a slow-release fertiliser at the time of planting and feed every 2 weeks during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid feed, such as a tomato fertiliser. Pruning Once Asiatic lilies have finished flowering, the flowers can be deadheaded just below the flower to prevent them from going to seed. However, it is vital to leave the stems and foliage on to die back naturally and replenish the bulb’s energy before removing it in the autumn. Supporting Staking with metal or bamboo supports and tying in may be required, especially for taller varieties, as having waited for the plants to flower the last thing you want is the flower stems to bend and break. Dividing Over time, as the bulbs multiply, flowering may be reduced as the bulbs become overcrowded and baby bulbs are produced. Early autumn is an ideal time to divide the bulbs, once the foliage has died back and been removed. To divide, carefully dig up the bulbs and split them into smaller, more manageable groups to replant. The baby bulbs lifted can be removed, potted up and overwintered under cover to grow on and plant out the following year. Common Varieties When it comes to choosing Asiatic lilies, the choice is endless. With most being a similar size, it really comes down to the choice of colour, which ranges from red and orange to pink and even black – there is one for every garden or terrace. Asiatic lily bulbs are often available from autumn onwards, whether from garden centres or online growers. With lilies especially, it is always worth buying only good quality bulbs, as if they have been allowed to completely dry out it is unlikely that they will come to anything in spring. To help you choose here is a selection of some of the best to grow here in the UK. L. ‘Cavoli’ This variety is perfect for containers due to its compact nature, growing to only 40cm tall and 25cm wide. With its luxurious deep red flowers, it really stands out from the crowd. L. ‘White Twinkle’ ‘White Twinkle’ is an absolute stunner, with its creamy white blooms with deep red spots. Sometimes scented, it looks wonderful when used as a cut flower or when planted in a border. As a larger variety, it can grow to 1m in height. L. ‘Forever Marjolein’ This variety is an Asiatic hybrid and provides a real burst of colour with its bright pink petals with orange centres. A beautiful flower, it is larger than some, so can be better suited to a border or large container. L. ‘Purple Dream’ ‘Purple Dream’ is a newly bred lily with pink and purple petals and freckles. With an eventual size 90cm tall and 40cm wide, it is ideally suited to a border or large container. L. ‘Lollypop’ ‘Lollypop’ looks like her name would suggest and is a cheering addition to any garden. With white and raspberry two-tone petals and flashes of green, the flowers are magnificent. Problems & Pests “Lilies are attractive to people as well as common airborne bacteria, fungi, insects, and small mammals,” says Lynn. “Appropriate care and prevention from predatory factions is key to success.” Red Lily Beetle The red lily beetle, or Lilioceris lilii, is a beautiful insect, but don’t let its appearance charm you as it can strip a prized lily bare. The bright red beetles are a similar size to a ladybird and can easily be seen with the naked eye. Now widespread in the UK, red lily beetles are sadly a common sight. The beetle and its grubs feed on the foliage, seed pods and even petals leading to not only a patchwork of holes but poor health of the actual bulb as well. Frustratingly, adult beetles are capable of overwintering in the vicinity, so control methods must be applied during the growing season. If the red lily beetle is present, it is advisable to try and tolerate small numbers of beetles or try organic methods, before considering a pesticidal approach. Non-pesticidal approaches can include encouraging predators such as birds, frogs and ground beetles into the area and removing the beetles by hand where possible. When necessary, organic insecticides containing natural pyrethrin ingredients can be used. However, these often have a short window of action and frequent reapplication may be required, as per their instructions. If all else fails, pesticides can be used, but it is inadvisable to use these when the plant is in flower due to the danger it poses to any pollinators present. Slugs And Snails Young fresh Asiatic lily shoots emerging in spring can be especially susceptible to damage from slugs and snails. Control methods against slugs and snails can include picking off by hand, torch-lit night-time hunts, encouraging predators such as birds and frogs and using barrier methods. It is often recommended to combine a few of these approaches in order to be effective. Vine Weevils The vine weevil, another type of beetle, can be problematic to many garden plants, especially those grown in containers which include the Asiatic lily. The adult beetle feeds on the foliage edges during the summer, but more worryingly, the grubs feed on the roots and base of the bulb in winter. Controls can include torch-lit night-time hunts and picking off adults by hand, along with applying nematodes, a type of biological control. Nematodes can prove effective, but their use is limited by the outside temperature, so cannot be used all year round. If nematodes fail, a systemic insecticide can be used on ornamental plants only.
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