Growing
Fred Miller On Growing Gladioli In Containers - 'You Can Get 4–6 Corms In One Pot'
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing A Container Choosing A Growing Medium Planting And Growing Potting On Or Transplanting Potted Gladioli Care There are so many reasons why you might grow your gladioli in containers. You can do away with the hassle of digging up corms in open ground to overwinter them indoors by simply growing them in pots and moving them to a cool and dark basement or shed. Also, as deciduous perennials, gladioli do not rapidly grow large root systems, so you won’t have to pot them on as you have to do with so many other plants. You’ll just have to dig them up about once every 3 years to separate the corms. Gladiolus flowers are truly sensuous, with their open-throat trumpet-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers that range in profusion right down the flower stalk. As a result, many a variety will make a cracking accent plant on the doorstep or on the patio – another reason why you should consider container growing! Choosing A Container Compared to other plants of the same size, gladioli can be grown in relatively small pots. But the size is still important, argues Fred Miller from the Empire State Gladiolus Society: “Be sure to pick a big enough pot, at least 12” (30cm) x 16” (41cm) deep.” As they are not bushy plants, pots do not need to be very wide. However, the pots you choose must have multiple drainage holes, as gladioli require excellent drainage, and, because damp soil is a no-no and breathability is important, clay or terra-cotta pots are the preferred options. “I always grow Gladiolus in pots because I have a heavy soil, which causes corms to rot in winter,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I use a long tomato pot (narrow but deep) using John Innes 2 with some added grit. “This provides plenty of nutrients and moisture-holding whilst also draining freely. In late winter or early spring, I harvest the corms and replant them with fresh compost to keep the corms from becoming overcrowded.” “Be sure to have good drainage in the bottom,” echoes Fred. How Many Gladioli Per Pot? Gladioli are among the plants that play well among themselves, though they do not compete well for soil nutrients with many other plants. Even though they certainly should not be overcrowded, gladioli’s tall and narrow form makes them amenable to sharing pots. Fred explains: “You can get 4 – 6 corms in one pot, just spread them out. If you have chosen a tall variety, you may want to add support for them. “This is best done at the time of planting so you do not disturb the roots.” If unsure, try planting 3 medium-sized corms in a triangular arrangement in a pot of 30cm diameter, or you could grow 6 gladioli in a planter about 50cm wide. Choosing A Growing Medium Gladioli need fast and free-draining soil. It’s important that the soil does not stay damp, so I suggest you start with a layer of gravel at the bottom of the pot. These plants do best in fertile soil. As such, a mix of clay-free sandy loam amended with organic compost will be very suitable. High-quality potting soil amended with grit and/or perlite will prove equally good. Finally, add a controlled-release balanced fertiliser to the soil, which will mean you will not have to fertilise the potted plants again. Planting And Growing Gladioli corms should be planted about 2 weeks before the last expected frost of the season. As you will be growing these plants in pots, if you live in a mild region or if you can protect the pots from a snap frost, you can plant them even earlier. The drop-shaped corms are to be planted with the tip upwards. Water them well after planting so that the soil is soaked all the way through. If you plant corms at intervals of 10-20 days, you will enjoy blooms all through the summer and even into early autumn, weather permitting. Place the pots where they can get several hours of sun every day. Also, be sure that the containers are in a sheltered spot, do not have northern exposure, and are protected from stiff winds. Potting On Or Transplanting Gladioli are not typically potted on or transplanted as the corms are usually planted in the location where you want to grow the plant. Remember, you do not want to disturb the root system of any cormous (or bulbous) perennial during the growing season. If you want to transfer your gladiolus to a different container or want to plant it in open ground, simply wait until mid-late autumn. Then you can dig up the corm and the following season you can plant it in the desired spot. Potted Gladioli Care Water gladioli thoroughly and deeply about once a week, allowing the subsoil to just dry out between waterings. If you did not add in slow-release fertiliser to the soil, then you can fertilise the plants with a high-potash liquid fertiliser. Finally, these plants often require staking. As the young plants are shooting up, especially if you see them struggling, use twine and a cane to keep them upright. Push in the cane as early as possible so that you eliminate the risk of damaging young roots. You can always tie the plants later.
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Gladiolus From Seed: The Plant Will Need Years To Develop Its Corm Before Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose A Container & Compost 2) Sow The Seeds 3) Water & Germinate 4) Harden Off 5) Grow The Young Plants Outdoors 6) Lift Up The Corms Sought-after gladioli cultivars are almost always grown from corms since many named cultivars will not usually grow true from seed. Moreover, if you grow this plant from seed, you will not see flowers for anything from 2-5 years as the plant will develop its corm first. However, if you have collected or come by some gladioli seeds and want to give it a go, it is possible! “Gladiolus species grown from seed are a good option, particularly if you want to grow large numbers,” Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly explains. “You could try harvesting seed from a cultivar and see what offspring arise from them, as long as you don’t mind waiting at least a couple of years until flowering!” You can grow gladiolus from seed by following these steps: Choose the right container and growing medium to grow your gladioli. Sow the seeds into the container, making use of a seed starter mix. Water and wait for germination, which will typically take place within 2-4 weeks. Harden off the seedlings by placing them outdoors for short periods of the day. Grow the young plants outdoors, being patient as the plant grows its corm. Lift up the corms when ready, overwintering indoors and planting out the following spring. This process is explained in more depth below: Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Seeds, containers, seed starter mix, trowel, cling film (optional) When To Sow April-May When To Plant Out June 1) Choose A Container & Compost Use a wide bowl or pot for starting gladiolus seeds. It does not need to be deep and a depth of only about 15cm will do. The chosen container should have several drainage holes. If you use a bowl or pot instead of a seed tray you can eliminate the step of potting on the seedlings and disturbing them when they should best be directing their energies only to developing corms. Gladiolus seedlings require well-draining and fast-draining media. Use a seed starter mix that has excellent drainage or make your own medium. Dampen it thoroughly before the next step. 2) Sow The Seeds Fill the bowl or pot with the seed starter mix. Place the seeds on the surface of the mix and cover them with a fine layer of the same mix. They should be spaced about 7-8cm apart. Water the seeds and gently pat down the soil. 3) Water & Germinate Loosely cover the bowl or pot with a clear, thin plastic sheet (such as cling film) to conserve humidity, and place it on a sunny windowsill. If you have started the seeds in spring, the window should be kept closed at all times unless it is unseasonably warm. Water in moderation daily so that the soil is damp throughout. The seeds should germinate in about 3 weeks, but germination can take anything from 15-30 days. 4) Harden Off After the seedlings sprout, remove the plastic sheet and continue watering as before. After the seedlings are about a fortnight old, start to harden them. Put the pot or bowl outdoors in the late morning for one hour initially. Increase the duration by an hour every day, and also put out the pot or bowl a little earlier in the morning. The pot or bowl should be placed in a sheltered spot and protected from cold or stiff winds. Also, if the sunlight is too strong it may scorch the young plants, so make sure to keep them under dappled sunlight. 5) Grow The Young Plants Outdoors After about 10 days you can keep the bowl or pot outdoors in a sheltered spot in full sun. If at any point you see the young plant somehow getting shorter, do not worry. This sometimes occurs as the young plant develops its corm. Be sure to pull out any weeds on a regular basis and thin the seedlings if and when necessary. 6) Lift Up The Corms In autumn, 1-2 weeks before the first expected frost, stop watering the plants. A couple of days later, loosen the dry soil from around each plant, move it away so as to free the plant, and gently lift out each of the little plants with its tiny corm. These first-year corms will vary in size from about that of a pea to that of a large marble. The main stems should be cut 3-4cm from where they are attached to the corms. The corms should be cured and then overwintered indoors, and then planted the following spring, when you can plant them in pots, planters, or open ground.
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Pruning Gladioli Really Only Requires An End-Of-Season Removal Of Dying Foliage
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Pinch Off Wilted Flowers 2) Cut Fading Flower Stalks 3) Remove Withered Leaves If you want to enjoy the summertime in the company of large trumpet-shaped flowers of brilliant hues arranged in thick clusters that often grow to over 1m tall, you’ll hit the jackpot with gladiola plants. Gladioli are long-lived cormous perennials that not only put on a colour show during summer but are very low-maintenance. Because of this, they are among the few plants that do not require pruning for form or shape, nor should they be pruned. They do not produce an overabundance of foliage, and what there is of those bright sword-shaped leaves is neat and tidy to begin with. Where gladioli are concerned, pruning really encompasses routine cleaning up and an end-of-season removal of dying foliage. “Larger flowered cultivars in particular will benefit in appearance for having wilted flowers removed,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “Species types, though, could easily be left without detracting from their impact, particularly if in a mixed perennial border.” You can prune gladioli by following these steps: Pinch off any wilted flowers. Cut the fading flower stalks. Remove withered leaves. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs or hand shears When To Prune Continually May through August, then one-time in October 1) Pinch Off Wilted Flowers Shortly after the start of the blooming season, flowers on a given stalk will wilt and wither in ones and twos. These will detract from the beauty of the plant. Fred Miller, long-time Secretary from the Empire State Gladiolus Group, explains how gladiolus blooms from the bottom up, meaning that you should start at the bottom of the plant, removing the wilted florets when necessary. When you spot such dying blooms, gently grasp the stalk with one hand and pinch off the flower with the other by holding it between forefinger and thumb and twist-plucking it off. 2) Cut Fading Flower Stalks Later in the season, on a given stalk, a large number of the flowers will be fading and wilting. Fred argues: “As the gladiolus bloom, they bloom from the bottom up. “If you have them in the garden, remove the spoiled florets as needed. “If you have them in a vase, do the same, and also cut the stem down (a new cut will allow it to drink better, and it will keep a better form).” 3) Remove Withered Leaves Do not prune the leaves after the flowering season is over as they will be producing energy reserves for the corm for the following year’s blooms, so let them remain there as long as possible. It is only after the leaves have yellowed and started to wither, sometime in mid-autumn, that you should cut them off with a pair of secateurs. However, if the first frost arrives before the leaves have fully withered, then cut them off and protect the corm. Now the corm is finally done for the season.
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Do You Need To Dig Up Gladiolus Corms For Winter? It Depends, Say Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Dig Up The Corms 2) Cut The Stems 3) Detach And Separate 4) Store Featuring brilliant columns of funnel-shaped flowers on upright flower stalks, gladioli are among summer’s most ravishing blooms. They occur in innumerable shades, often with very appealing splashes, tongues, bordering, and other types of colourations and markings. Barring a handful of exceptions, they are hardy to H3 and H4. What this boils down to is that gladiolus corms need winter care one way or the other. “An H4 hardiness rating means that plants are hardy down to -10°C, whilst H3 means that they are hardy to -5°C,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “A hard frost could therefore cause your corms to die off, although a good layer of mulch in autumn (if in the ground) would give some insulation.” Be aware that even if your varieties’ corms are hardy enough to stay in the ground during winter, you should still dig them up every few years to separate the new corm from the old, dead, mother corm, and also to separate cormlets. You can care for gladioli over winter by following these steps: Dig up the existing plant. Cut the stems from each corm. Detach and separate the corms from each other. Store in a cool spot over winter. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Gardening gloves, gardening fork, a gardening trowel or hand spade, brown-paper bags, mesh bags, or newspapers 1) Dig Up The Corms Start the process a few days before the first expected hard frost of the year. Most likely, you will already have cut off the foliage by this point, but if not, do this before you attempt this first step. Using the gardening fork and trowel, loosen the earth and scoop it out so as to dig up the corm. Start several centimetres away from the main stem and go all around it to avoid cutting into the roots, and absolutely do not nick or bruise the corm itself. As soon as the corm is exposed, scoop out the rest of the earth with your gloved fingers and work out the corm. If necessary, prise it out using the trowel. Repeat this step for all the corms. 2) Cut The Stems Cut off the main stem 2-3cm from each corm. Gently remove soil and dust from the corms; you may use a cotton cloth or soft brush to do so. Leave the wafer-like husks intact. Inspect the corms and throw away any that are nicked or show signs of rotting. Lay a few sheets of newspaper on a flat surface in a cool, dark, well-ventilated shed or basement. Put the corms on the newspapers to dry out and cure, but be aware that the corms should not be touching one another. Leave the corms for 20-25 days. 3) Detach And Separate You will notice that each ‘corm’ is actually two corms, one on top of the other. The lower one, which will be wrinkled, is the mother corm and the one on top of it is the daughter corm. In addition to this, there may also be 2-3 very small corms, called cormels, attached to the base of the mother corm. Detach these stuck corms by carefully breaking them off from one another. They should come apart using only gentle hand-and-finger pressure. The daughter corm is the one you should plant the following spring while the wrinkly mother corm can go in the compost bin. As for the cormels, they too should be planted the following spring but it is only in the third year, typically, that they will produce flowers. 4) Store Sprinkle a garden fungicide powder, such as Sulphur powder, on all the corms to protect them from pest attacks over the winter. Put the corms very loosely in a mesh bag or a loose-knit cotton bag. Store in a well-ventilated, cool and dark place with a temperature between 6-10°C. It would be a good idea to inspect the corms a couple of times while they are in storage. If you find that any have gone soft or have started to rot, throw them away.
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13 Magnificent Allium Varieties With White, Yellow, Pink And Purple Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) A. tuberosum 2) A. neapolitanum 3) A. ‘Mount Everest’ 4) A. flavum 5) A. senescens 6) A. stellatum 7) A. ‘Eros’ 8) A. oreophilum 9) A. cernuum 10) A. caeruleum 11) A. cyaneum 12) A. ‘His Excellency’ 13) A. ‘Ambassador’ References Genus Allium, belonging to Family Amaryllidaceae, encompasses 1,018 accepted species (at the last count!).1 These are perennial bulbous herbs and their native range covers the entirety of the temperate and sub-tropical Northern Hemisphere. Most of them bloom in the late spring to early summer bridge season while some bloom through summer. “Alliums are hugely versatile at a time of year when spring flowers have gone or are about to go over and early summer flowers are yet to begin,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They also come in contrasting heights, from diminutive species 25-30cm high (suitable for pots or border edges) to the very tall, such as A. ‘Summer Drummer’ at up to 2.5m high, suitable for rising through a border or through mixed planting.” These plants, like others in the Amaryllis Family, are distinguished by their narrow linear or strap-like foliage or cylindrical, hollow leaves.2 Usually these are of a deep, viridian colour which is bright on some species, greyish on others, and with a bluish tint on some. Underneath we present selected ornamental Alliums in a range of heights and a variety of colours including white, yellow, pink, and purple. 1) A. tuberosum Also called Chinese Chives – this variety grows to about 40cm. It bears umbels of small, star-shaped white flowers. They have the bonus of being scented; flowering in late summer and into autumn, Chinese Chives is a late bloomer among Alliums and will extend the season of interest in a mixed planting. It is native to Tibet and the Himalayas. 2) A. neapolitanum Also called Naples Garlic, is actually an ornamental onion. It reaches a height of only 25-30cm but has a spread twice as big. It too bears umbels of small, star-shaped flowers that are pure white. They also have the bonus of being fragrant. It blooms in late spring through early summer. 3) A. ‘Mount Everest’ This is an ornamental onion that is quite tall at about 90cm. It produces pure white pom-pom-like inflorescences which are very large at about 15 centimetres in diameter. This species’ flowers last relatively long on the plant or in a vase. It blooms in late spring through early summer. RHS Award of Garden Merit recipient. 4) A. flavum Yellow-Flowered Garlic is a small variety at only about 30cm high with no spread to speak of. It produces umbels of buttery, sunny yellow bell-shaped ‘sundrops’. The umbels are open or loose, and the florets are pendent – it blooms in late spring through early summer. It is native to the Mediterranean region to West-Central Asia and is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit.3 5) A. senescens Ageing Allium is a type of chive. Another small variety, it grows to only about 30cm, bearing somewhat sparse and delicate tufty umbels. Their colouring is equally delicate, being of whitish-pinkish lilac hues. It blooms in early and mid-summer and is indigenous to Siberia through the Koreas. This variety has also received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 6) A. stellatum The Prairie Onion rises to 50-60cm. It bears big, rounded 8-10cm umbels with a profusion of scented star-shaped small flowers. They are of a delightful soft pink shade. Another late bloomer among Alliums, it flowers from mid-summer into autumn and extends Alliums’ season of interest. It is native to the United States. 7) A. ‘Eros’ Reaches a height of 40-50cm and has a roughly equal spread. It bears big dome-like inflorescences about 10cm wide. These have tiny star-shaped flowers of a lovely light lilac to light purple hue with a darker radial stripe along each petal. It blooms in early to mid-summer. 8) A. oreophilum Pink Lily Leek grows to only 20-30cm with no spread to speak of. It bears sparse, loose umbels of small bright candy-pink flowers. Each petal has a red radial stripe and the visible yellow stamens add further colour, while the flowers are fragrant. It is indigenous to South Central Asia from the Caucasus to Turkestan. 9) A. cernuum Lady’s Leek is of small-to-medium height at 40-45cm. Its umbels bear tiny flowers in nodding, pendent form. These dainty bell-shaped flowers are of a soothing soft pink to soft lilac tone with which the prominent yellow stamens make a fine contrast. This plant is native to the United States. 10) A. caeruleum Azure-Flowered Garlic is medium-to-tall in height at 60-80cm and its spherical inflorescences, comprising of star-shaped florets, are but 3cm across. But this is a very special variety because of its colour: stunning true blue; even azure. It blooms in late spring to early summer and is native to a swath of land from Siberia down to Turkestan. 11) A. cyaneum Also called Dark Blue Garlic, this variety grows to a mere 25cm and has a clumping form. Its leaves are among the narrowest and it produces small clusters of tiny, pendent bell-shaped flowers. The colour ranges from soft lilac to rich violet with which the yellow stamens make a strong contrast. Its native range is from Tibet through Korea. This plant is yet another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 12) A. ‘His Excellency’ An architectural variety made so by the height of its stalks and the size of its inflorescences. It attains a height of up to 1.2m and its large pom-pom-like globular inflorescences are about 12cm wide. These are tightly packed with countless tiny star-like florets in a pleasing mauve-purple colour. It blooms from mid-spring to mid-summer. 13) A. ‘Ambassador’ A spectacular architectural plant that reaches a height of up to 1.2m. It produces massive spherical inflorescences that would put any pom-pom to shame. These are up to 20cm across and are tightly packed with innumerable tiny star-like florets. The colour is an eye-catching and gorgeous deep, rich purple. It blooms from mid-spring to mid-summer. Recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. A. ‘Universe’ and A. hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ are two more options that bear spherical inflorescences in shades of purple. Both are recipients of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. References 1. Allium L. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000901-2 2. Allium (Onion, Ornamental Onions). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension. Retrieved April 4, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/allium/ 3. Allium flavum. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/827/allium-flavum/details
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8 Notable Camassia Varieties With Striking Flowers On Frothy Racemes
IN THIS GUIDE 1) C. leichtlinii 2) C. leichtlinii subsp. suksdorfii Caerulea Group 3) C. cusickii 4) C. quamash 5) C. scilloides 6) C. leichtlinii ‘Sacajawea’ 7) C. leichtlinii subsp. leichtlinii ‘Alba’ 8) C. leichtlinii ‘Semiplena’ Other Notable Varieties References Camassia species are native to a north-south swath of land in North America extending from the Rockies in the east to the Pacific in the west, and another north-south swath from Ontario down to Texas all the way east to the Atlantic coast.1 Camassia’s greatest concentration and diversity is in Oregon.2 In their native habitat, Camassias sprout and spread in sunny prairies and flatlands, but also along streams and other wetlands, being partial to moist regions. They are also seen on mountainsides and hilly areas. As an American-native flowering bulb, Camassia is something of a rarity as most flowering bulbs tend to originate from Europe. Camassia, well-bred and reserved, has not made any serious moves to colonise, or naturalise itself in, foreign lands. It has seen a deserved rise in popularity in the British Isles where it is slowly but steadily gaining traction with gardeners who are looking for something off the beaten track. This denizen of the American prairies is just hardy enough in most of the United Kingdom at a Hardiness of H4. Here are nine interesting varieties to grow: 1) C. leichtlinii Probably the most floriferous of the species. It is also one of the tallest considering that spikes top out at 1.3m. Its leaves are strap-like and not as narrow as those of the other species. Its flowers are a rich purple and it grows wild from British Columbia down to California. It is the most cultivated among the 6 species. 2) C. leichtlinii subsp. suksdorfii Caerulea Group Also bears purple flowers but of a pleasant, mid-tone hue; it too can reach about 1.3m. This is one of the most widely available and popular varieties. 3) C. cusickii Probably the most leafy of the species. It too is one of the tallest as spikes can reach 1.3m. The flowers’ tepals are especially narrow, almost wispy. They are of a cool, pastel tone of lilac often shifted to blue – it is a native of Oregon. 4) C. quamash Has the most extensive range; it grows in a large swath of western North America. It reaches a height of not much more than 30cm, while its foliage is comparatively limp. “I have grown Camassia quamash successfully in pots,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Whilst most will struggle for moisture in summer and look messy when the foliage is dying down, this smaller species makes a good partner for a later flowering perennial in a pot.” The flowers are a saturated tone of purple. 5) C. scilloides One of the less-desired species and it is the only one that is native to the eastern half of North America. Though certainly not as sought after as the Western species, its creamy white or lilac-tinged flowers on frothy racemes are quite pleasant. Among the notable cultivars are those with flowers of an especially rich or unusual colour, double or distinctly large flowers, and variegated foliage. 6) C. leichtlinii ‘Sacajawea’ The flowers are off-white or vanilla white, whereas the foliage is variegated, exhibiting white edging. 7) C. leichtlinii subsp. leichtlinii ‘Alba’ ‘Alba’ is striking for the fullness of its flowers and their (very) creamy white colour. It is mid-height at about 80cm. 8) C. leichtlinii ‘Semiplena’ ‘Semiplena’ bears creamy white or yellowish-white double-form flowers. Other Notable Varieties ‘Blue Danube’ bears flowers of an especially deep purple-blue colour. ‘Blue Heaven,’ on the other extreme, has flowers that are the palest tone of baby blue. ‘Pink Star’ bears flowers with thick tepals of a very pale salmon-pink tone. ‘Electra’ produces flowers that are a ‘normal’ shade of purple but these blooms are large! All of the above are cultivars of C. leichtlinii. References 1. Camassia quamash. (n.d.). The University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=caqu2 2. Davis, A. (2018, May 29). Determining the Influence of Nutrition and Temperature on the Growth and Development of Camassia spp. Oregon State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/downloads/sq87c049c
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Planting Bulbs In The Garden: The Ultimate Guide With Jonathan Hart
IN THIS GUIDE Types Of Bulbs When To Plant Bulbs How To Plant Bulbs Lasagne Planting What If You’ve Missed The Right Time For Planting? FAQs Bulbs of many types can be useful and beautiful additions to a garden. In this guide, we’ll explore some different options, and help you understand when and how to plant them. We worked with the team at BULBi, Jonathan Hart from Harts Nursery and RHS Master of Horticulture Roy Nicol to curate some useful tips and tricks in this guide. “Flower bulbs are a gardener’s best friend. They are easy to plant, low maintenance, and provide year-round interest in the garden. “Whether you are a seasoned gardener or just starting out, flower bulbs are an excellent choice for adding colour, texture, and beauty to your outdoor space.” For those beginner gardeners: ‘Bulbs’ is a term used in gardening to refer to bulbous plants – herbaceous perennials grown for ornamental or edible purposes which have underground (or near-ground) storage organs, used to store water and plant nutrients during dormancy. “What makes us so passionate about growing bulbs is seeing how something so beautiful can come from them,” Jonathan says. “The promise and suspense of planting a bulb is something that always excites us.” There are so many types of bulbs, tubers, corms and rhizomes so there is always something to suit everyone’s taste. “It’s always amazing to see the first sign of spring bulbs coming through to let us know good things are coming.” Types Of Bulbs While we refer to these plants as ‘bulbs’ colloquially, botanists will distinguish between true bulbs, rhizomes, tubers, corms and tuberous roots. In horticulture, it is beneficial to categorise bulbs into: Spring-flowering ornamental bulbs. Hardy summer-flowering ornamental bulbs. Edible bulbs treated as annuals in a vegetable garden. Perennial edible bulbs. Tender summer-flowering ornamental bulbs. Autumn flowering bulbs. When To Plant Bulbs “We always say that spring-flowering bulbs (such as daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, etc.) should be planted in autumn,” says the team at BULBi. “However, the soil should be well-cooled, as the bulbs need a cold period under the soil – so planting before September is definitely not the perfect time. “Of course, this also depends on the climate where you live, but ideally you should plant the bulbs in autumn, and October or November is early enough. “The flower bulbs can even still go into the ground in December – but then it shouldn’t be freezing.” Hardy flowering ornamental bulbs that bloom in the summer (like ornamental alliums, crocosmia and lilies) can also be planted in autumn. “Although Crocosmia and lilies are really summer bloomers and we always recommend planting them in spring.” says BULBi. Autumn is also the best time to plant perennial alliums like elephant garlic. Tulips, which flower a little later in spring should be planted later in autumn, in November. Tender summer-flowering bulbs like gladioli are best planted from March to April. Autumn-flowering bulbs, like nerines, for instance, should be planted before the end of the summer. How To Plant Bulbs Bulbs should be planted out as soon after they are acquired as possible. Your first decision will be where you will place your bulbs, which varieties will be appropriate for your desires or requirements, and the location. “The versatility of flower bulbs is one of their biggest selling points,” shares the team at BULBi. “They can be grown in a variety of conditions, from full sun to deep shade, making them a great option for any type of garden. “With a little effort and planning, you can have a garden filled with beautiful flowers from early spring through late summer.” You might place bulbs: In borders or beds. In fruit tree guilds or other polycultures. In containers. In lawns and long grass. “Always make sure you check that you are planting your bulbs in the correct position,” says Jonathan Hart. How deep bulbs should be planted depends on which specific bulb you have chosen to grow. However, as a general rule of thumb, it can be helpful to work from the guideline that bulbs should be placed at a depth of around 3 times their height. “If it’s your first time planting bulbs go for something that needs little care like tulips, alliums or narcissi,” Jonathan suggests. “Also, don’t be afraid to try something that looks exotic. “Lilies, for example, are some of the hardiest bulbs you can plant and can actually withstand temperatures of -20°C, so our UK climate is fine for them.” In Borders & Flowerbeds If planting bulbs in borders or beds (in soil that has been prepared for the bulbs you want to grow) you should consider the tips outlined below. Make holes deep and wide enough to accommodate each bulb. For a bulb that is 3cm high, dig a hole around 9cm deep and sit the bulb at the base of it. As a general rule of thumb, bulbs should be spaced around twice their own width apart from one another, so, for example, bulbs that are 5cm wide should be placed roughly 10cm apart. For pleasing displays of ornamental bulbs in beds and borders, aim to plant in groups of 5-10 – larger drifts of bulbs can look better, so often, you’ll need 50 bulbs, or even more, to make an impact. Usually, bulbs will have a pointier end from which the shoot will grow, and this should be placed facing upwards, as the experts at BULBi explain: “You can hardly go wrong with planting bulbs. Did you know that flower bulbs grow towards the light? We always plant them with the tip upwards and the flat side down because that’s where the roots grow in the earth. “However, even if the flower bulb is crooked, that’s no problem. The flower will just grow out of the earth.” Bulbs can be fairly closely placed along the borders of a fruit tree guild or another planting scheme to reduce grass/weed ingress into the growing area. Alliums (both edible and ornamental) can be useful additions for a range of reasons in an organic garden and can often help in organic pest control. Bulbs planted on a sloping area can be beneficial in stopping runoff and nutrient losses. Once bulbs have been planted into the soil of the growing area, soil should be gently firmed back over the site. Avoid stepping on the soil since this can damage the bulbs, as well as causing compaction. When planting in autumn, or when the soil is sufficiently moist, watering-in may not be required. However, for spring and summer plantings, when the soil may be dry, water straight after planting. Add an organic mulch to maintain fertility, protect the soil, reduce weeds and conserve soil moisture. A mulch of autumn leaves or similar can also help keep overwintering onions or garlic and other bulbs safe over the winter months. In Containers Many ornamental and edible bulbs work very well in containers. The containers should allow for good drainage while retaining sufficient moisture for the bulbs in question. The growing medium used should be chosen for the specific bulbs you wish to grow. The mix should be different depending on whether the bulbs will remain in the container only for a single season, or will be in the container longer term. “As not all bulbs like the same aspect or if you have a heavy clay garden, we would suggest planting your bulbs in nice pots or containers,” says Jonathan. Bulbs in containers can typically be placed with one bulb width between them. After planting up containers, it can, again, be beneficial to place an organic mulch on top – sometimes, you might also consider a decorative gravel mulch or similar. When planting in autumn, a mesh cover might be used over the top to prevent squirrels from unearthing your bulbs and undoing your good work. Bulbs in containers will usually have to be watered more frequently than those in the ground. Water after planting, then regularly while the bulbs are in active growth, then taper down watering during dormancy but make sure pots do not dry out altogether. For best results, feed bulbs in a container every week or so with a high-potassium organic liquid plant feed. This should be done from the time when the first shoots emerge to when the foliage begins to die down as the plants move towards dormancy. In Lawns & Long Grass Many bulbs can also look beautiful and perform well when naturalised in lawns or taller grass. To naturalise bulbs in grass you should throw bulbs from waist height and let them naturally fall where they may. Then, plant them exactly where they fall for a naturalistic look. Planting holes can be dug with a trowel, but using a bulb planter will make things quicker and easier when planting through the turf. Place the bulbs and crumble some soil from the plug you have taken out around the bulb to backfill. Then replace the plug of turf on top, trying to keep it at the same level as the surrounding area. Lasagne Planting When planting bulbs, it is important to think not only about one variety in isolation. Often, the most impressive results can be achieved by planting multiple types of bulbs. A type of layered planting called ‘lasagna planting’ is a strategy used to plant more than one bulb type in a particular growing area and thereby extend the flowering period. What If You’ve Missed The Right Time For Planting? Bulbs are not like seeds and cannot last out of the ground or a suitable growing medium for long. While many seeds will still be viable if you wait a year, storing them in a suitable environment before planting the following year, bulbs usually lose viability more quickly. If you forget to plant bulbs in autumn, or couldn’t plant as planned, don’t try to wait until spring or autumn the following year. Bulbs are likely to rot, turn soft, or deteriorate further. Some store longer than others, and how long bulbs will still be in good condition will also very much depend on where they were kept, but generally, it is best to go for it as soon as possible – even if you missed the optimal planting time. Get your bulbs into the ground or into containers as soon as you possibly can – after checking them over and discarding any that are soft or rotten. Late is better than never. Planting bulbs late will usually mean that they will not perform as well during their first year, but if they are a type which returns year after year, they should gradually get better over time. FAQs Should You Soak Bulbs Before Planting? While soaking bulbs before planting is not necessary, it can bring benefits for certain bulbs. Soaking bulbs, corms or tubers in tepid water for a while before planting will hydrate them, making sure they have the water they need to develop. This can lead to quicker growth and potentially earlier flowering for a certain few bulbs. “Flower bulbs (such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, muscari, crocus and all other spring-flowering bulbs), do not need to be placed in water,” argues the team at BULBi. “In fact, that is bad for the flower bulb, the bulb will rot. “Even if you water these flower bulbs (which is not really necessary because they get enough water in autumn and they have enough nutrition), it is very important that the water can drain away properly – so that no excess water can remain. “A pot should therefore always have a hole in the bottom. “Anemone tubers and ranunculus corms can be put in water for a while before planting.” How Many Bulbs Can You Plant Together? How many bulbs you can plant together very much depends on: Where you live and the specifics of the place where you are planting. The type(s) of bulbs you are growing. The space you have available. Other plants growing in the area. Do Bulbs Come Back Every Year? BULBi shares how only the naturalising varieties of bulbs return the following season. “These include daffodils, crocuses, galanthus, muscari and hyacinths. “In general, tulips are also annual bloomers. Tulip bulbs usually flower for one year once they are planted in the garden. “In their first year, they produce beautiful flowers; in their second year, you will only see a few green leaves; and in their third year, you will probably see nothing at all. “In the flower bulb fields, tulip bulbs are also harvested after one flowering period. As soon as the tulips bloom, they are cut off, which we call deadheading. “The nutrition then all goes to the bulb. When the remaining leaves have turned yellow, the bulbs are lifted. “After lifting, the bulbs are cleaned and stored dry. After which they are returned to the ground in autumn. However, there are tulip varieties that you can leave in the ground, and which will return the following year. We call these perennial tulips.”
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Colin Skelly Recommends These 20 Bulbs With Blue And Purple Hued Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Allium caeruleum 2) Allium caesium 3) Anemone blanda blue-flowered 4) Anemone nemorosa ‘Royal Blue’ 5) Camassia leichtlinii ‘Caerulea’ 6) Camassia quamash 7) Crocus biflorus ‘Blue Pearl’ 8) Hyacinthoides non-scripta 9) Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ 10) Ipheion ‘Rolf Fiedler’ 11) Iris reticulata 12) Muscari armeniacum 13) Muscari azureum 14) Muscari latifolium 15) Scilla bifolia 16) Scilla forbesii 17) Scilla luciliae (Boiss.) Speta 18) Scilla mischtschenkoana 19) Scilla sardensis 20) Scilla siberica Blue is a popular colour in gardens, so here are some bulbs with blue flowers to consider incorporating into your garden design. Blue flowers are often more purplish in hue, but whether they are a truer blue or more violet or indigo in shade, they can look beautiful in a garden. They can be used alongside greens and whites for a cool and calming effect, or paired dramatically with yellows, oranges and reds for a more vibrant and eye-catching theme. Blues can be an interesting choice, especially when it comes to spring flowering bulbs, where yellow and red tones tend to dominate. “Purple-hued flowers will harmonise with red whilst true blues will contrast with yellows,” adds Horticulturist Colin Skelly. Choosing some bulbs with blue flowers to break up the dominant drifts of daffodils and tulips can be a good way to bring interest and variety to your garden. Smaller blue flowering bulbs can also be the stars of the show in a container garden, in a bed or border, or perhaps even naturalised on a lawn or spreading below trees in a woodland setting. To help you see the variety of blue and purplish options that are available, here are my favourite 20 bulbs with blue flowers to consider planting in your garden. 1) Allium caeruleum COMMON NAME(S): Blue-flowered garlic HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun Allium caeruleum offers some of the truest cornflower blue flowering heads. With a somewhat rare colour and a beautiful eye-catching form, these are a great choice for the centrepiece of a container, or for the back of a border in fertile, well-drained soil. 2) Allium caesium COMMON NAME(S): Light blue garlic HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue and green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun Another allium to consider is A. caesium – light blue garlic. This bulbous perennial has umbels of violet-blue flowers which are borne in late spring and early summer. These thrive in moist but well-drained soil in full sun. 3) Anemone blanda blue-flowered COMMON NAME(S): Blue-flowered winter wildflower HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade The flowers of Anemone blanda come in a range of different hues. ‘Blue Shades’ offers a mix of blooms with a wide spectrum of purplish blues. The blue-purple petals of these daisy-like flowers are set off perfectly by their yellow centres when they bloom in late spring and early summer. They can grow well in full sun or partial shade. 4) Anemone nemorosa ‘Royal Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): Wood anemone ‘Royal Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Part Shade Woodland anemone ‘Royal Blue’ is a purple-toned cultivar of this attractive woodland flower. This bulb thrives in a shaded location, and flowers from March onwards for a period of around 8 weeks. Another interesting cultivar is ‘Blue Eyes’ which has white petals on double blooms, but a beautiful indigo blue eye at the centre of each flower. 5) Camassia leichtlinii ‘Caerulea’ COMMON NAME(S): Camass caerulea group HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Camassia is another genus which offers several bulbs with blue flowers. This is one of two suggested options, bearing dramatic blue-violet star-shaped flowers on tall racemes on erect stems. “[They] look fantastic in a border, in prairie style plantings or even naturalised in meadows,” adds Colin. “However, once established they draw down deep into the soil and can be labour-intensive to move. “So wherever you put them, make sure you want them there long term.” The eye-catching blooms grace the garden in late spring. These thrive in full sun or partial shade and in moist but well-drained soil. 6) Camassia quamash COMMON NAME(S): Camas HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade There are also a wide variety of C. quamash cultivars with beautiful blue flowers, which range in hues from blue-violet to a much truer, deeper blue. One of the options with vivid true blue blooms is the cultivar ‘Blue Melody’. Choosing a few Camassia with different blue and ivory hues can work well in a blue-themed garden. 7) Crocus biflorus ‘Blue Pearl’ COMMON NAME(S): Crocus ‘blue pearl’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue, white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun Crocus comes in a range of different hues, and while there are no true blue crocuses, there is ‘Blue Pearl’. ‘Blue Pearl’ is a pleasingly delicate-looking but robust option, suitable for naturalising in lawns, which has pale silvery white petals streaked with a delicate violet-blue hue. 8) Hyacinthoides non-scripta COMMON NAME(S): Bluebell HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Part Shade Perhaps one of the best-known and best-loved wildflowers with blue flowers is the English bluebell. This well-known flower of woodlands is easily recognised for its bell-shaped, violet-blue blooms. It will thrive in dappled woodland shade, in moist but well-drained soil. Plant these natives rather than the Spanish bluebell and help protect our native species. 9) Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): Hyacinth ‘delft blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Some of the other excellent bulbs for blue flowers are hyacinths. Hyacinth bulbs obviously come in a wide range of colours, and some offer excellent blue and blue-violet options, like ‘Delft Blue’. Try other cultivars like ‘Blue Jacket’, ‘Ocean Mix’ and the rare blue-black ‘Midnight mystic’. 10) Ipheion ‘Rolf Fiedler’ COMMON NAME(S): Spring starflower ‘Rolf Fiedler’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun The spring starflower ‘Rolf Fiedler’ is another bulbous perennial with beautiful blue flowers. It forms clumps of narrow light green leaves above which its starry blue flowers seem to float. The beautiful blue flowers reach around 3-4cm in width and each petal has a darker line down the centre. These love a sheltered site in full sun. Another cultivar to consider is Ipheion ‘Jessie’, which has beautiful blue flowers. 11) Iris reticulata COMMON NAME(S): Early bulbous iris HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Blue, purple and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Winter / Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun The violet-purple hues of Iris reticulata might not honestly be a true blue, but this early bulbous iris is a real winner in many bulb displays. The flowers are up to 8cm in width, with striking yellow central ridge markings. These flowers prefer alkaline or neutral soil which is moist but well-drained and a position in full sun. 12) Muscari armeniacum COMMON NAME(S): Armenian grape hyacinth HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Grape hyacinths are one other key group of bulbs with blue flowers. When grown in a pot in an unheated greenhouse or undercover, the grape hyacinth ‘Christmas Pearl’ should flower at Christmas. Outside, it will flower in February and remain in bloom until around early April. The fragrant flowers emerge a slightly greenish blue, but mature to a vibrant blue-violet. To follow this cultivar, Muscari armeniacum ‘Saffier’ is another great choice. It takes over from the above and flowers until around the middle of May. The violet-blue flowers of this bulb never quite open fully and never set seed, which explains their long blooming period. 13) Muscari azureum COMMON NAME(S): Azure grape hyacinth HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Another great grape hyacinth to consider is M. azureum, which has a paler blue hue than others in this genus. The lovely little sky blue flowers, born in early April, crowd at the tops of the stems, those at the top staying tight, while those lower down flare out prettily. These are happy in sun or partial shade as long as they are not subjected to summer drought. 14) Muscari latifolium COMMON NAME(S): Broad-leaved grape hyacinth HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue and black FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade One other interesting Muscari to consider is M. latifolium. This has interesting two-tone flowering heads, with pale blue flowers at the top and purplish ones below. This is another vigorous variety that can thrive in full sun or partial shade but which won’t like hot dry summers. 15) Scilla bifolia COMMON NAME(S): Alpine squill HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Scilla bifolia is the first of a number of squills, or Scilla, which offer beautiful blue flowers. This squill, alpine squill, is known for its pink-tinged buds which open into bright blue or violet-blue star-shaped blooms. There are usually 3-5, sometimes as many as 10, blooms on each stem. This plant thrives in humus-rich soil in partial shade, disliking summer drought. It will spread well in the right conditions. 16) Scilla forbesii COMMON NAME(S): Forbes’ squill HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade This is another beautiful squill with blue starry flowers. The flowers have white eyes and are borne in clusters of 2-3 on a leafless stem. They grow well in well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. 17) Scilla luciliae (Boiss.) Speta COMMON NAME(S): Lucile’s glory of the snow HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade One of the largest flowering squills, this bulb, formerly categorised as Chionodoxa, has flowers which can measure up to around 3.5-4cm across. 2-3 flowers form on each stem, and since the flowers face upwards, that can make an impressive show. These flowers are pale lavender-tinged blue in hue, with white towards the centres. They flower in April and are best in partial shade. 18) Scilla mischtschenkoana COMMON NAME(S): Misczenko swuill HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Winter / Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade The charming and delicate flowers of S. mischtschenkoana, beloved of bees, are the very palest icy blue, with deeper blue stripes which run down the centre of each petal. Best in partial shade, this bulb offers blooms for up to a couple of months from mid-January. 19) Scilla sardensis COMMON NAME(S): Lesser glory of the snow HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Another Scilla formerly categorised as Chionodoxa, this bulb has outward-facing true blue flowers with small white centres, born on long, arching stems. Up to around 20cm in height, this is another Scilla which will thrive in partial shade. 20) Scilla siberica COMMON NAME(S): Siberian squill HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade Scilla siberica is perhaps the most popular of all the Scilla varieties. It has deep violet-blue, bell-shaped flowers, up to five of which hang from each one-sided flower head. These flowers can grow up to around 4cm in width. This bulb will thrive just about anywhere, as long as it is not too hot and dry in summer. The above are just some of the beautiful bulbs for blue flowers that you could consider. Whether you are looking for a true blue or more purplish hues, the list above should help you to find an option that works well for your garden.
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Talking Divine Daffodil Varieties With Anne Wright And Janet Hickman
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties 1) ‘Scilly White’ 2) Tahiti Daffodil 3) New Baby Daffodil 4) ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ 5) Sorbet Daffodil 6) ‘Hillstar’ 7) ‘Beautiful Eyes’ 8) ‘Le Torch’ 9) ‘Reggae’ 10) ‘Mission Bells’ References Though most daffodils are yellow trumpet-shaped blooms just as they are usually envisaged, this flower is rather more diverse in its shapes, sizes and colours than commonly known or conceived. Some varieties have pronounced, protruding trumpets while others have dainty cups. Narcissus papyraceus (Paperwhite Daffodils) ‘Paperwhite’ daffodils reach heights of 80cm; compare that to N. asturiensis which typically stands at 10cm – a quarter of the length of ‘Paperwhite’ leaves! N. asturiensis (Pygmy Daffodils) And talking of ‘Paperwhite’ – daffodils grace gardens as well as meadows in hues of yellow, orange, cream, pink, and in pure white. Besides that, some cultivars are bi-coloured, such as white and yellow, white and orange, and yellow and orange. Adding further diversity to the flower, even their orientation varies by species and cultivar. N. tazetta (Bunch-Flowered Daffodil) The flowers of different daffodil species and cultivars are variously pendent, horizontal, or erect. There are 74 species of Narcissus and, as for hybrids and cultivars, many thousands have been registered.1 Narcissus ‘Pink Wonder‘ The Royal Horticultural Society arranges cultivars into 13 divisions with about half of them defined by their respective coronas with Division 1 being Trumpet Daffodils.2 Daffodils inter-breed and hybridise relatively freely; moreover, horticulturists come up with numerous new cultivars every year. ‘King Alfred’ Expert-Chosen Varieties We asked Anne Wright from Dryad Nursery and Janet Hickman from the American Daffodil Society to share a few of their favourite varieties with us. “I have too many favourites,” says Janet. “I like the Historic daffodils, which are those that are registered with the RHS or known to be in gardens before 1940, for their stories, their delicacy and their hardiness.” “Some examples would be ‘Queen of Spain’ and ‘Thalia’.” ‘Thalia’ “I also love miniatures like ‘Itsy Bitsy Splitsy’ and ‘Hawera’ for their close-up beauty and their ease of growing in pots and small spaces. “My favourite daffodil to grow for fragrance is the double-flowered ‘Erlicheer’. I appreciate ‘Ice Follies’ for its early spring appearance and the poet daffodils like ‘Molly Malone Cook’ for extending the season longer. “I’m intrigued by recently-developed green daffodils like ‘Mesa Verde’. “Standard show-winning daffodils like ‘Rapture’, ‘Sweetness’, ‘Fragrant Rose’ and ‘New Penny’ top many people’s lists of favourites, but each new catalogue or sales list tempts with new favourites like the delicate white and pink ‘Dainty Tale’.” ‘Rapture’ So, what are some of Anne’s favourites? For perennials that add pleasing colour to the garden, she recommends the varieties: ‘Jenny’ ‘Lemon Silk’ ‘Lucifer’ ‘Jenny’ For cut flowers, Anne’s top picks are: ‘Little Dryad’ ‘Giselle’ ‘Trumpet Voluntary’ “Catalogues of Narcissus are like trying to choose in a sweet shop when it all looks delicious,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Over the years, I have narrowed down my preference to early flowering miniature cultivars largely because I grow daffodils in pots for early seasonal display and because wind can tend to flatten taller cultivars (usually when they are just looking their best). “Narrow down your selections by thinking about how and where you will grow them and when you want them to flower.” In terms of our favourites, it is hardly possible to cover them all so we go beyond the standard-bearer, ‘Dutchmaster’ or ‘King Alfred’, and list some that are more unusual. Our choices in the following top ten list are not as widespread or as well-known as ‘Dutchmasters’ yet they are super-attractive, each one in its own way. These favourites are selected without regard to range or diversity and solely on the basis of artistic appeal. In no particular order: 1) ‘Scilly White’ The solid white tepals and solid orange cup of this horizontally-oriented variety stare you in the face and projects an atypically bold and brassy air. 2) Tahiti Daffodil This very symmetrical double flower has wafer-ish tepals but the bewitching feature is that both the tepals and cup are a buttery hue with central flecks and splashes of orange. 3) New Baby Daffodil Just like the name says, this one’s an innocent-looking ‘baby;’ a miniature variety with a bright yellow cup while the tepals are white with yellow bordering. 4) ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ This arresting variety has snowy white tepals set off by a multi-hued corona that is greenish-yellow showing distinct ‘eyes’ and with red fringeing. 5) Sorbet Daffodil Framed by rounded, creamy white tepals, this lovely variety has a whorl-like split corona with each one having a unique set of yellow, orange, and vermilion ‘brush strokes’. 6) ‘Hillstar’ This work of art looks like it is hand-painted, for the well-shaped cup is yellow turning into white but the tepals are white at the centre turning yellow at their halfway point. 7) ‘Beautiful Eyes’ ‘Beautiful’ is the key word for this bloom which usually has off-white ivory tepals and a small cup coloured deep orange and a pronounced eye. 8) ‘Le Torch’ This stunning double flower is rose-like in its complexity and has both tepals and corona of an intense yellow hue splotched with equally deep orange. 9) ‘Reggae’ Belying its name, this is a gentle and sedate variety with flared white tepals surrounding a pronounced corona with a pastel, nearly faded, salmon-pink shade. 10) ‘Mission Bells’ Pure white with a touch of yellow at the centre, and so superbly formed with all its elements in perfect proportion and balance that it is as if sculpted to adorn Paradise. References 1. Narcissus. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved May 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:1558-1#children 2. Horticultural classification of daffodils. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/plant-registration-forms/daffhortclass.pdf
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