Growing
Propagate Lavender Cuttings This Summer With Emily Cupit's 6 Step Guide
IN THIS GUIDE Why Take Lavender Cuttings? When To Take Lavender Cuttings How To Take Softwood Or Semi-Ripe Cuttings 1) Find A Side Shoot 2) Pull From Main Stem 3) Remove Leaves 4) Dip In Rooting Hormone 5) Place In A Warm, Humid Location 6) Separate Rooted Cuttings How To Take Hardwood Lavender Cuttings Layering Lavender Learning how to take lavender cuttings means it is relatively easy to increase your stock of this useful herb in your garden. Propagating lavender from seed can be a challenge, but taking lavender cuttings (or propagating your plants through layering) makes it easier to make new plants from your existing lavender. In this guide, we will walk you through the process, and explain how you can take cuttings from lavender at different times of the year. We’ll also talk about layering – another useful strategy for lavender propagation. Why Take Lavender Cuttings? Of course, throughout the summer months, you can take cuttings from your lavender to use in various different ways inside your home. However, in this article, we are not talking about harvesting your lavender but rather about taking cuttings in the specific context of making new plants. Taking cuttings from a lavender plant means, of course, that you can make new lavender plants to populate different areas of your garden. You might also propagate lavender plants to give away to family or friends – or even to sell. Many people love this plant and will wish to include some in their gardens – for fragrance and visual appeal, for a wildlife-friendly garden, for organic pest control and for a range of yields. Taking cuttings can also be a good strategy where existing plants have become woody and leggy. Lavender plants can sometimes (especially when not properly pruned) become overgrown and less vigorous and productive over time. Taking cuttings from these plants means that you will be able to gain better replacements for them, and improve the quality of a lavender patch. When To Take Lavender Cuttings Lavender cuttings can be taken any time between June and September. Those taken from fresh, green growth early in the season are called softwood cuttings. Those taken a little later, from growth that is around a month old, are called semi-ripe cuttings and are categorised by the green growth having become firmer but not yet wood. And those usually taken towards the end of the season are hardwood cuttings – though hardwood cuttings of older wood can be taken earlier in the season too. Softwood cuttings can be quickest to root, but can succumb to a range of issues, and may not be as resilient over time as cuttings taken a little later. Semi-ripe cuttings taken in summer generally have reasonably good chances of success and are likely to be the easiest type of cuttings for beginners. Hardwood cuttings take longer to root, and success rates can vary. But hardwood cuttings can bring more resilient new plants over time. If you are new to propagating lavender, in my opinion, you are most likely to meet with success if you take semi-ripe cuttings in July or early August. How To Take Softwood Or Semi-Ripe Cuttings The idea when taking softwood or semi-ripe cuttings is to take material from the plant which is fresh, new and green. 1) Find A Side Shoot Seek out a fresh, non-flowering side shoot from a healthy lavender plant. 2) Pull From Main Stem Gently pull the side shoot away from the main stem, ideally with a heel of bark attached. If the cutting does not have a heel, trim the base just below a leaf node. 3) Remove Leaves Remove the leaves from the lower half of the cutting. 4) Dip In Rooting Hormone Dip the ends of your cuttings in rooting hormone. This is optional but increases the chances of success. Push cuttings into a gritty potting mix around the edges of a small pot. 5) Place In A Warm, Humid Location Water well and place the pot or pots in a warm, shaded, humid location. If the location is not suitably humid, you can increase humidity by placing a glass, plastic bag or half a clear plastic drinks bottle over the top. 6) Separate Rooted Cuttings After cuttings have rooted (usually 4-6 weeks) place each cutting into its own container. Keep potted up cuttings in a cold frame, polytunnel or greenhouse over winter before planting out into their final growing positions the following spring. How To Take Hardwood Lavender Cuttings Hardwood cuttings are taken from nearer the base of the plant and are older wood. Otherwise, the steps and technique are the same as the above. Just remember that hardwood cuttings may be much slower to take root. Layering Lavender If you want to make clones of a parent plant, cuttings are a great idea. However, taking cuttings is not the only way to propagate your lavender plant. Another propagation technique that can be used with lavender is called ‘layering’. Layering involves bending stems down to the ground (or the soil in a container), rather than cutting them off. The idea is to keep the stem below the soil surface so that new roots form along that portion. This is easier with other plants than it is with lavender but can be the best option where the parent plant is older and woodier as once rooted, this technique can make more substantial plants which can be used to replant and refresh the existing lavender scheme. To layer lavender: Choose a branch (or branches) close to the ground/ surface of the growing medium. Bend the branch down, and gently scar the portion that will be below the soil. Scrape off a section of the outer bark but keep the green cambium layer intact. Cover the scarred portion with at least 3-5cm of soil. Make sure that the soil/medium is free draining. Use a metal hoop, peg, or branches twig inserted in the soil to keep the branch in place. Cover the area with organic mulch to retain topsoil and moisture. After a couple of years, the below-ground section should have developed a strong root system, and the new plant can be severed from the parent plant. Taking lavender cuttings or layering lavender is a great strategy if you want to gain new lavender plants for your garden. By learning these techniques, once you have a single specimen of a certain type of plant in your garden, you will far less frequently have to buy more of the same type. Rather than buying new plants, you would be able to make your own. And this is always a good thing to do as much as possible in a sustainable, eco-friendly garden.
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How To Grow Nepeta (AKA 'Catmint') - Known For Its Intoxicating Effect On Felines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Catmint? Common Varieties How To Grow Catmint Catmint Plant Care Common Problems References Catmint is a group of dependable perennials that can be a great choice for many gardens. Catmint is perhaps best known for its effect on felines, but cats are not the only garden visitors who can be intoxicated by this beautiful and useful plant. Should you choose to include it in your garden, you will soon see why it is such a popular choice. Overview Botanical Name Nepeta Common Name(s) Catmint, Catnip Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Europe, South-West and Central Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or violet flower spires When To Sow March, April Plant Out May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October When To Prune October, November Catmint is the name given to a number of plants within the Nepeta genus, in the Lamiaceae family.1 The common name catmint is given to these species because of the effect they have on domestic cats. Nepeta cataria A chemical called nepetalactone in these Nepeta species affects the olfactory receptors of cats and makes them temporarily euphoric.2 These plants are usually herbaceous perennials, with tubular flowers often in lavender-blue hues. While the term catmint is applied broadly to a number of species within this genus, it can also be used to refer more specifically to Nepeta cataria, which is also referred to as ‘Catnip’. This is said to be the most aromatic catmint, but more ornamentally appealing species and hybrids are available for gardeners. Why Grow Catmint? If you want a perennial plant which will flower well over a long season (late spring to late summer), which makes a great informal edging or border plant, and which is great for wildlife in your garden, catmint can be an excellent choice. They are easy to grow and very low maintenance. Catmint can be used to attract cats to specific parts of your garden to keep them out of vegetable plots and other areas. It also attracts a wide range of beneficial wildlife, including butterflies, bees and other pollinators, and beneficial predatory insects which help keep pest populations down. This means that it can be a great companion plant for a range of common crops and other garden plants. Catmint is also commonly said to repel a range of insect pests, such as aphids and flea beetles, for example – and research shows it may help in holistic and organic pest control (at least to a degree).3 N. cataria also has a range of uses for us, beyond the garden. The young leaves can be eaten raw in salads or as a garnish and they have a mint-like flavour. Common Varieties There are several different species within the Nepeta genus to consider growing in your garden. These include: N. cataria N. cataria ssp. citriodora (lemon catmint) N. racemosa N. nepetella N. x faassenii (A hybrid of garden origin between N. racemosa and N. nepetella) N. subsessilus N. kubanica N. nuda Nepeta x faassenii How To Grow Catmint Catmint mostly prefers a site in full sun, though some species, like N. subsessilus will cope with light or dappled shade. Most Nepeta species will thrive in dry and free-draining soil, though N. kubanica and N. nuda do better on soil which is a bit moister. N. ‘Six Hills Giant’ Catmints are usually pretty tolerant of dry conditions, but cannot tolerate permanently wet soils – in such conditions, rot can set in. All catmints will struggle in deep shade. Where To Grow Catmint can be grown in a range of different settings in a garden – it can work well within a sunny herb garden, alongside other herbs which like sunny and relatively free-draining conditions. It can also work well as edging around a productive annual garden bed, along a pathway, or as edging for a patio or paved area. Alternatively, it can also be integrated into perennial beds or borders alongside other flowering perennial plants. In small spaces, catmint can also be grown in pots. “Nepeta x faasenii is a smaller hybrid that grows to a maximum of around 50cm x 50cm,” says RHS MHort Colin Skelly, “making it ideal for growing in pots where it will require a minimum of maintenance.” Sowing & Planting Catmint can be sown in March or April, and planted out in May or June. Pot-grown plants can also be purchased throughout the year, though the best time to plant these out is in the spring or autumn. You can also plant out in summer though it will be important to keep the new plants well-watered during dry periods until they have become established. Most catmints should be spaced anywhere between 30-60cm apart, though this will vary depending on the species and specific variety you have chosen. Companion Planting Suggestions In a herb garden, grow catmint with rosemary, thyme, marjoram, oregano, hyssop, sage, etc. You could grow catmint as a border companion plant around annual fruit and vegetable beds. Or, grow catmint at the front of a fruit tree guild to attract beneficial insects and potentially help with repelling certain pest species too. In perennial beds or borders, consider planting catmints with, for example: Agastache Lupins Astrantia Alliums Salvias Yarrow Verbena Hardy geraniums (cranesbill) and/or perennial ornamental grasses. Catmint Plant Care When Nepeta is placed appropriately, it is a great choice for a low-maintenance perennial garden scheme. Though it will flower and look good over a long period, it will take up very little of your time. Watering Newly planted catmint should be watered well during dry spells during establishment. After this period of time, the plants will largely obtain enough water from rainfall and will require little ongoing care. These easy-going perennials, when placed in the right positions, should take up very little of your time and will be a high-value addition to your garden. If you are growing catmint in containers, remember that you will have to water a bit more frequently than when plants are grown in the ground. Pruning & Cutting Back Nepeta flowers over a long period from late spring to late summer, but it is a good idea, for the best blooms, to trim them back after flowering, as this will keep the plant neat and encourage further flowering. Once the growth dies back in the late autumn, it is best, in a wildlife-friendly garden, to leave the remaining foliage in place until spring. The dead leaves are a hibernation spot for ladybirds and other creatures, so leave further cutting back until early spring so they have a good spot to overwinter. Division Catmint forms large, congested clumps over time, and flowering can diminish. To prevent this from happening, it is a good idea to divide the clumps every few years, once you spot a noticeable decline in flowering. Of course, division of mature plants does not just give the existing plant a new lease of life – it also allows you to propagate new catmint plants to give away, or place more elsewhere in your garden. Common Problems Catmints will usually be hassle-free and don’t generally have a lot of issues with pests or diseases. Cats which are attracted to the catmint may roll around on it and damage a clump, but will not usually destroy the plants altogether. Slugs can occasionally be an issue with young catmint plants – to prevent plant losses and keep slug numbers down, make sure you have plenty of wildlife that eats slugs in your garden. If necessary, keep an eye out and remove slugs by hand, or place slug traps if there is a severe problem. When the summer is very dry, powdery mildew can sometimes occur and you may see a white coating on the leaves and stems and occasionally, there may be dieback. If this happens, cut off, gather up and remove affected plant material as soon as possible to prevent its further spread. As you can see from the above, catmints can be a wonderful choice for a range of settings, and are a low-effort, high-reward plant choice for many sunny gardens. References 1. Nepeta cataria (Catmint, Catnip, Catswort). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/nepeta-cataria/ 2. Meet the Molecules – Catnip. (2020, September 11). John Innes Centre. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.jic.ac.uk/blog/meet-the-molecules-catnip/ 3. Catnip and Catmint. (2017, September 20). Backyard Gardener. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/catnipandcatmint.html
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A Complete A-Z List Of Herb Varieties From Anise To Yarrow
IN THIS GUIDE Agrimony Aloe vera Angelica Anise Basil Bay Leaf Borage Calendula Caraway Chamomile Chervil Chives Comfrey Coriander Dill Elderflower Fennel Fenugreek Garlic Ginger Ginkgo Ginseng Horseradish Lemongrass Linseed Lovage Lungwort Marjoram Oregano Parsley Peppermint Rosemary Sage Sorrel St John’s Wort Tansy Tarragon Thyme Turmeric Valerian Yarrow References This alphabetical bunch of herbs is good for the cooking pot, while a thriving herb garden is a welcome addition to any home. Not only does it add a generous dollop of greenery and gusto to an outdoor (or indoor) display, but it also produces intoxicating aromas that will compete with and complement one another. “The vast majority of herbs favour a free-draining soil in a sunny position,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Soils high in nutrients, especially nitrogen, can cause leaves and stems to become overly soft and therefore also fodder for aphids. “For this reason, few need regularly fertilising. “If you don’t have these conditions, herbs such as lovage, borage and pulmonaria are better choices, happier with some shade and slightly moister, though not waterlogged, soil. “Ginger too will prefer a shaded, moist container which can be brought indoors over winter.” This A to Z list is a fairly comprehensive round-up of all the major varieties that you can grow in the UK. So without wasting any more thyme (sorry), here is some sage advice (and again!) regarding the herbs you might wish to include in your own garden this year. Agrimony There’s no acrimony with agrimony A member of the rose family, agrimony is a deciduous herb which grows up to half a metre in height and offers bright yellow blossoms in summertime. Aloe vera A balm for all ills Technically a succulent, Aloe vera is most commonly known for its rosette-shaped leaves. It’s also very low-maintenance, making it great for beginners – your biggest issue may be overwatering. Angelica Angelic in name, angelic in nature Characterised by towering stems topped by oversized domes of flowerheads, angelica is great for adding architectural intrigue to the rear of your herb garden. Its stems are most commonly candied for confectionary purposes or flavouring drinks.1 Anise Anyone for liquorice? Anise hyssop, sometimes known as Agastache, is another tall perennial herb which carries spires of bright flowers which attract bees. Its most notable feature, however, is undoubtedly the liquorice aroma it exudes and the liquorice flavour with which it can imbue tea, baked goods and culinary dishes.2 Basil One of the big hitters of the herb world This fragrant herb is synonymous with Italian cooking and is popularly used to make pesto, flavour salad or add some zing to your cooking.3 It is easy to grow here in the UK on a kitchen windowsill and supermarket-bought plants can survive a long time if watered from the bottom. Bay Leaf Ornamental, aromatic and appetising Sometimes referred to as sweet bay, bay plants can serve as the centrepiece of your herb garden due to their larger size and ornamental properties. The evergreen leaves, when dried, are great for adding richness to the flavours of stocks, soups and stews.4 Borage Cool as a cucumber The bright blue blossoms of borage plants make them an attractive addition to any garden in their own right and are so eye-catching that they’re often used as a garnish for cocktails and other drinks.5 The leaves, meanwhile, give off a cucumber-like coolness which serve as a great addition to salads and dressings. “Be sure to use the youngest foliage, as the hairs on older leaves make them very rough,” shares Peter. Calendula Kith and kin with sunflowers and marigolds Part of the sunflower family, calendulas are distinctive for their bright orange and yellow blossoms. These are entirely edible and are often used to add colour to potato or rice dishes, as well as bringing a slightly peppery zing to salads and soups.6 Caraway It’s all in the seeds Sometimes mistaken for a weed, Carum carvi is cultivated primarily for its seeds. With a slightly aniseed flavour, these are often added to breads, sauces, pickles and sauerkrauts, while the roots can also be boiled and consumed as well. Chamomile Packs a powerful punch The daisy-like blooms of this plant are a tell-tale sign that you’ve picked the right type for culinary use, since non-flowering varieties are better suited to creating a scented lawn than a hot tea or infused sauce.7 Highly fragrant, it should only be used in small amounts. Chervil Cheap and chervil This biennial herb is grown mostly for its aromatic leaves, harvested in the first year of growth. When used appropriately in salads, potato or egg dishes, they give off a mild aniseed flavour.8 Chives The perfect accompaniment to egg, cheese or potato dishes When finely chopped and worked into salads, dips or quiches, chives add a delightful zing that’s especially complimentary to egg, potato and cheese dishes.9 Although it’s the leaves which take most of the limelight, the pink blossoms which top chive plants are a sight to behold and an edible addition to your plate, as well. Comfrey External use only! The delicately hanging foliage of a comfrey plant make it a pleasing addition to a herb garden, but it’s more famous for its use as a natural fertiliser. It can be grown and processed into comfrey tea, an organic liquid fertiliser that can be used across your garden. Coriander The marmite of mainstream herbs Coriander commands something of a love-it-or-hate-it reputation in culinary circles. Perception of the flavours varies from person to person. A native of the East, it’s often used in Asian cuisine and both the seeds and the leaves are edible but individual in their properties.10 The former add a lemony zest, while the latter imbue a slightly bitter, acrid flavour to the dishes to which they are added. Dill Ferny foliage provides a feathery foil for other plants beneath it This large herb carries sprays of yellow flowers and strong-tasting ferny leaves that are a common addition to salads, soups or flavoured rice. The leaves can be used fresh, dried or frozen, while the seeds are often an ingredient in curry powders. Elderflower As widespread as it is mouth-watering Found all over the UK, elderflower is as unfussy as it gets when it comes to growing conditions. Although the fruit steals most of the headlines, its flowers are also worthy of a mention given their ability to infuse cordials, syrups, teas, wines and champagnes with an exquisite taste.11 Fennel Particularly compatible with fish dishes Like dill, fennel plants are characterised by sprigs of bright yellow blooms in the summertime. All parts of the plant are edible and bring a faint aniseed flavour to the salads or other dishes to which they are added. It’s particularly complimentary when combined with fish.12 Fenugreek Highly sought-after seedpods The dainty leaves and delicate white blossoms of fenugreek are pretty enough in their own right, but the seeds are the main attraction from a culinary perspective. It can add a maple syrup-style sweetness to certain dishes, though taste bitter on their own.13 Garlic Vampires aside, garlic is almost universally popular It’s not one of the most widely used herbs for nothing! Garlic is great for adding flavour to all kinds of dishes, while the plant is easy enough to cultivate, as well. Trim back green leaves to use in salads, pesto or as a garnish, but wait until they turn yellow to dig up the bulbs underground. Ginger Fiery and flavoursome Due to its exotic origins, ginger doesn’t take kindly to frosts, so plant it in the early spring and take care to pamper it as best you can. Do so, though, and you’ll be rewarded with delicious rhizomes that add a fiery kick and a frisson of flavour to curries and stir-fries. Ginkgo A native of China, this ancient tree has made a successful transition to UK climes and offers an attractive option with delicately shaped leaves that won’t throw heavy shade. It will grow to a large size, though, so it’s not ideal for smaller gardens.14 “I have one tree that I absolutely adore, which is the ginkgo tree,” shares Horticulturist Doug Stewart. “The thing I love about it is that it doesn’t fit into any classifications because it is a multitude of things. I love that it can’t be compartmentalised.” Ginseng Ginseng also hails from the Far East, though it enjoys a more uneasy relationship with the British seasons and will appreciate being grown indoors. Horseradish Intense and invasive Don’t be fooled by the beautiful white flowers and innocuous-looking leaves – the roots of horseradish plants carry quite a punch. Normally grated into coleslaw or used in sauces to accompany roast beef, horseradish is an intense ingredient, while the plant itself is also very fast-spreading, meaning it’s best contained in pots. Lemongrass The appeal of the Orient Another stalwart of Asian (and particularly Thai) cuisine, lemongrass is grown for the fragrant base of its edible stems.15 It’s not keen on frosts either, so it’s a good idea to cultivate it in a container that can be easily moved indoors during the colder months. Linseed Commonly called ‘flaxseed’ Also known as flax, linseed is a popular alternative to rapeseed for producing oils.16 Use neutral, well-drained but moisture-retentive soil for the best results when growing. Lovage Who doesn’t love lovage? Lovage has so many strings to its bow. Think of celery, and you can appreciate the flavour and appearance of the plant. Fresh leaves are a great herbal addition to salads, soups and stews, while dried ones make a delicious tea.17 Its stems can be candied like angelica, its shoots can be blanched and its roots are edible too. What’s not to love? Lungwort A member of the borage family, lungwort is closely aligned with borage and comfrey, among others. It has interesting, variegated leaves and lilac coloured flowers that bloom from spring into summer. Marjoram A close cousin of oregano Marjoram is often confused with oregano, and although the two are similar in appearance, they’re used differently in the kitchen. Whereas oregano leaves are generally dried, marjoram foliage and flowers are more commonly used fresh as a late addition to stuffings, soups and sauces.18 Oregano A popular ingredient in Italian, Mexican and Greek cuisine As mentioned above, the strong-tasting (and stronger smelling!) leaves of oregano are generally dried before use. They work particularly well when combined with ingredients such as garlic, onions and chilli, though they’re versatile enough to be put to a variety of different applications. Parsley Pick flat over curly, any day of the week Parsley comes in two distinct varieties – curly-leafed or flat-leafed. While the former does look more attractive as a garnish, it’s the latter that carries the stronger flavours and forms a crucial ingredient of many dishes and dips, including tabbouleh and salsa verde.19 Peppermint First grown as a hybrid between spearmint and watermint, peppermint has come into its own over the last few centuries. It’s probably most widely known and used as peppermint tea.20 Rosemary Pungent and pleasant With evergreen foliage that can brighten up your herb garden during winter and flowers which will delight pollinators in summer, rosemary is an aesthetically strong choice for an outdoor display. It also releases an intoxicating fragrance and, when picked, dried and added to dishes like roast lamb, makes an excellent culinary herb, too.21 Sage Wise beyond its years There are hundreds of different varieties of sage to choose from, all of which will add cosmetic value to an ornamental border. Maximise their flavour by picking them in the morning, when the leaves are moist and hydrated. Sorrel You won’t be sorry you planted sorrel! Sorrel is a leafy green which serves as an ideal alternative to spinach. When picked young, its leaves will bring a zesty zing to salads and other dishes, while mature foliage will reduce significantly when sauteed, boiled or roasted, so be sure to give yourself a generous serving.22 It is also a good choice for a variety of sauces. St John’s Wort A prolific self-seeder St John’s wort is capable of propagating so rapidly that it’s considered a weed by some. In fact, it’s so commonplace around the world that it’s not even known where it originated in the first place!23 Tansy As cute as a button The button-like blooms of tansy, with their distinctive yellow colouring and bobbing structure, are what first draws the eye of this aromatic plant. Tarragon French tarragon trumps Russian tarragon every time There are two varieties of tarragon: French and Russian in the genus Artemisia. The former is favoured by cooking enthusiasts due to its more robust flavour.24 It is, however, trickier to cultivate and bring to flower, so it’s usually more convenient to seek a cutting than to grow from seed. Its leaves are great in salads, meat dishes, infused wines and buttery sauces.25 Thyme With a reported 300 varieties to choose from, gardeners are spoiled for choice when it comes to incorporating thyme into their herb display – especially since many of those have vibrant blossoms in summer.26 It’s a great addition to soups and stuffing mixes. Turmeric A winter warmer (which won’t grow in British winters) Turmeric is great for adding colour and flavour to rich, savoury dishes like curries, soups and stews. However, it’s used in southeast Asian climes, which means it is not reliably hardy. For that reason, it’s best to cultivate it indoors, use a south-facing window or grow lights to keep its sun exposure up and water regularly. Valerian Capable of growing up to 1.5m in height, valerian is another strong choice for the rear of a flower bed or herb garden. Its pink or white clusters of flowers are a sight for sore eyes come summertime, while its fragrance is often captured for use in perfumes.27 Yarrow Milfoil = A thousand leaves Although wild forms of yarrow are considered an invasive pest, cultivated yarrow can add structure, texture and colour to a garden display. References 1. Team, G. F. (2022, June 9). Angelica. BBC Good Food. https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/angelica-glossary 2. Agastache: Fragrant Foliage and Colorful Blooms. (n.d.). Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.bbg.org/gardening/article/awesome_agastache 3. Basil Recipes. (2015, April 26). Great Italian Chefs. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.greatitalianchefs.com/collections/basil-recipes 4. How to Cook With Bay Leaves: 17 Recipe Ideas Using Bay Leaves. (2021, August 11). MasterClass. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-to-cook-with-bay-leaves-17-recipe-ideas-using-bay-leaves 5. Borage flower & strawberry punch recipe. (2022, May 25). Sainsbury’s Magazine. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.sainsburysmagazine.co.uk/recipes/drinks/borage-flower-and-strawberry-punch 6. Potato Soup with Calendula Garnish. (n.d.). MyDish. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.mydish.co.uk/recipe/2790/potato-soup-with-calendula-garnish 7. Chamomile: Pictures, Flowers, Leaves & Identification. (n.d.). Edible Wild Food. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.ediblewildfood.com/chamomile.aspx 8. Fearnley-Whittingstall, H. (2019, July 9). The happy herb. The Guardian. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/jun/06/hugh-fearnley-whittingstall-chervil 9. The Best Way to Use Chives, From Soups to Vegetables to Main Dishes. (2013, April 18). Bon Appétit. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.bonappetit.com/test-kitchen/cooking-tips/article/the-best-way-to-use-chives-from-soups-to-vegetables-to-main-dishes 10. Parsons, R. (2015, February 20). 5 Quick Ways to Spice Up Your Recipes Using Coriander. One Green Planet. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.onegreenplanet.org/vegan-food/coriander-spiced-recipes/ 11. How to Cook With Elderflower. (2021, July 16). Great British Chefs. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.greatbritishchefs.com/how-to-cook/how-to-cook-with-elderflower 12. Waitrose Limited. (n.d.). Fish and fennel traybake. Waitrose. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.waitrose.com/content/waitrose/en/home/recipes/recipe_directory/f/fish-and-fennel-traybake.html 13. 9 Ways to Use Fenugreek Seeds: How to Cook With Fenugreek. (2021, September 29). MasterClass. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-to-cook-with-fenugreek 14. Ginkgo Tree on the Tree Guide. (n.d.). Arborday.org. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.arborday.org/trees/treeguide/TreeDetail.cfm?ItemID=1092 15. Parks, S. (2021, March 23). How to Use Lemongrass. Bon Appétit. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.bonappetit.com/story/lemongrass 16. Growing Linseed. (n.d.). The Linseed Farm. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.thelinseedfarm.co.uk/growing-linseed-flaxseed 17. Johnson, J. (2018, July 9). Little-Known Ways To Use Lovage. Herbal Academy. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://theherbalacademy.com/little-known-ways-use-lovage/ 18. What Is Marjoram? (2021, August 5). MasterClass. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-marjoram-learn-how-to-cook-with-marjoram-plus-7-marjoram-recipes 19. Parsley. (2022, November 29). BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/parsley-glossary 20. peppermint tea. (n.d.). teapigs.co.uk. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.teapigs.co.uk/products/peppermint-tea 21. Rosemary. (2022, June 10). BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/rosemary-glossary 22. What Is Sorrel And How Do I Cook With it? (2017, May 2). Food Republic. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.foodrepublic.com/2016/05/11/what-is-sorrel-and-how-do-i-cook-with-it/ 23. St. John’s Wort. (2021, December 9). HerbaZest. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.herbazest.com/herbs/st-john’s-wort 24. The Three Tarragons: French, Russian and Mexican. (n.d.). Texas AgriLife Extension Service. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/newsletters/hortupdate/2009/jan09/Tarragon.html 25. Hard, L. (2020, November 17). Fresh Tarragon and Its 9 Best Uses. Food52. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://food52.com/blog/12703-fresh-tarragon-and-its-5-best-uses 26. Kellogggarden. (2021, January 7). Thyme Varieties. Kellogg Garden Organics. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://kellogggarden.com/blog/gardening/thyme-varieties/ 27. Valerian perfume. (n.d.). Fragrantica. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Valerian-582.html
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This Is How To Grow Angelica - Ideal For Herb Gardens, Hedgerows Or Woodland Areas
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Why Grow Angelica? How To Grow Angelica Sowing Planting Out Angelica Care Harvesting Division References Angelica is a useful herb to grow in your garden and is great for a low-maintenance scheme. This woodland edge or hedgerow plant is common in the ‘wild’ but can also be grown in gardens, where it can bring a huge range of benefits. This is an attractive plant in a wilder and more relaxed garden scheme, but besides its appearance, there are many more reasons to grow Angelica in your garden. Overview Botanical Name Angelica archangelica Common Name(s) Angelica, Angel’s Fishing Rod Plant Type Biennial Herb Native Area Eurasia / Northern Hemisphere Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small blooms in various hues When To Sow August, September Plant Out April, May Harvesting Months March, April Native to Europe and naturalised in the British Isles, Angelica archangelica (garden angelica) is a biennial plant which is hardy throughout the UK and which is not frost tender.1 This is the plant most commonly referred to when people talk about Angelica. Angelica archangelica Angelica grows up to 1.5-2m in height and spread to create bushy clumps around 1m in diameter. It bears umbels of light yellow flowers in the early summer. Common Varieties There is also another useful species within this genus, Angelica sylvestris, or wild Angelica, which could also be a useful addition to your garden. Technically, both of these species are biennials, however, they can be perennial if they are prevented from going to seed. Angelica sylvestris And since you can harvest Angelicas for a range of uses prior to seed formation, this maintenance can be minimal and as easy as can be. There are also other non-European native Angelicas to consider. One that is commonly grown in a garden is Angelica gigas, for example. A. gigas Also known as Korean Angelica or giant Angelica, this is an attractive ornamental, with large purple flower umbels. There is also the East Asian Angelica edulis, with white flower umbels, and North American native Angelica atropurpurea, which has purple stems, to give just a few examples. Why Grow Angelica? Both garden Angelica and wild Angelica have many culinary uses. Garden Angelica’s leaves are eaten raw or cooked for a liquorice flavour in salads. They are also used as a mild natural sweetener, often alongside tart fruits or in jam-making. Both of these Angelicas are excellent wildlife-friendly plants and bring a wide range of beneficial pollinators and other insects to your garden. Other ornamental Angelicas like Korean Angelica do not have as many uses, but they can attract beneficial wildlife and make good cut flowers. How To Grow Angelica Garden Angelica will grow in dappled shade below trees, or in full sun. It requires deep, moist and fertile soil with an acidic, neutral or alkaline pH. Wild Angelica can also grow in similar conditions, though it is more shade tolerant and can cope well even in areas of somewhat deeper shade. Angelicas can be grown: In a dedicated herb garden. Alongside other perennial herbs, vegetables and flowers in a bed or border. Around the fringes of an annual vegetable garden. On the edge of a woodland area or beside a hedgerow. In a fruit tree guild or forest garden scheme. It is best to choose a sheltered spot, to avoid the need for the staking that is required in windy conditions, and to avoid any really hot or dry locations. Korean Angelica It works very well alongside other herbs which like similar conditions, like Alexanders, rue, meadowsweet, sorrels and herb patience, for example. Dill should not be grown close by to avoid cross-pollination. Angelicas’ ability to attract pollinators and predatory insects like lacewings and ladybirds makes it a great companion for a wide range of annual and perennial crops. “Angelica is an umbellifer, many of which have a characteristic dome or disc of flowers,” explains Colin Skelly, a horticulturist with years of experience in the field. “Think of Cow Parsley (Anthriscus sylvestris) or Hogweed (Heracleum sphondylium) on road verges; the easy access and plentiful nectar make this group of plants very popular with pollinators.” Sowing Angelica seeds are usually sown in a cold frame or another undercover area immediately once they are ripe, in late summer or early autumn, since the seeds typically only remain viable for a short period of time. You can also direct sow Angelica seeds where they are to grow as soon as they are mature. The seeds can also be sown in spring but germination rates will tend to be lower at this time of year. One key thing to remember when sowing Angelica is that the seeds need light for germination. So it is very important to place seeds on the surface of the soil or growing medium and to barely dust them over, or to leave them uncovered. Bury them too deeply and they may not germinate at all, or germination rates will suffer. Planting Out If you are not direct sowing, once the Angelica seeds germinate, and the seedlings are large enough to handle, they should be pricked out and potted up into their own pots. You can place these in a cold frame, polytunnel or unheated greenhouse, and watered to maintain moisture, but not overwatered over the winter months. These young Angelica plants should then be planted out into their final growing positions in the spring. Angelica Care Angelica is a relatively low-maintenance choice – great for busy gardeners. It requires little care, especially once established. It can be perennial if it’s not allowed to go to seed in its second year, and if you do decide to let it go to seed (which can be beneficial for the birds who like to eat them) then this is a plant that can self-seed readily – sometimes even so readily that it becomes a nuisance. Watering Young Angelica, especially while growing in pots and not in the ground, should be well-watered when grown undercover or during dry spells outdoors. Even mature plants might need to be kept well watered if rainfall is not sufficient, as dry conditions can increase the chances of diseases like powdery mildew taking hold. Feeding As long as it is grown in fertile soil, Angelicas should not need additional fertiliser. Add a mulch around your plants to maintain fertility and retain soil moisture over time. Common Problems Aside from powdery mildew, which can be a problem especially in dry conditions, Angelica is rarely troubled seriously by pests or disease. Look out for slugs and snails when the plants are still young and protect them where necessary. Later, Angelica attracts aphids, but since it also attracts those creatures which prey on aphids, like ladybirds and lacewings, this issue will usually balance itself out in a healthy garden and the Angelica will help you keep the beneficial wildlife around and the ecosystem in equilibrium. Harvesting Harvest the leaves and stems in the spring, while they are still young. Usually, these should be harvested before June. Division Mature Angelica plants in their second year can be cut back to the ground and dug up to make new plants in autumn. Divide the roots with a sharp knife and repot or replant the divisions right away where they are to grow. As you can see from the above, Angelicas can be a great choice for a productive, attractive, low-maintenance and wildlife-friendly garden. References 1. Garden Angelica. (n.d.). Plant Atlas. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://plantatlas2020.org/atlas/2cd4p9h.bkn
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The Herbs That Can Be Planted & Grow Well Together According To Edible Bristol
IN THIS GUIDE Considering Garden Conditions Mediterranean Herbs For Free-Draining, Sunny Conditions Herbs For Moister, Sunny Locations Herbs For Partial, Light Or Dappled Shade Growing as Wide a Range of Herbs as Possible What Is A Herb Spiral? How To Make A Herb Spiral Bed Planting Herbs In A Herb Spiral Herbs That Don’t Grow Well Together Companion Planting For Herbs Growing herbs in your garden is an excellent idea but to get the best results, you need to understand which herbs grow well together and the conditions they each need. When growing herbs in your garden, it is important to consider where exactly you should grow them. One of the first things that you will need to decide is whether you will grow herbs among annual crops, in mixed perennial planting schemes, or with other herbs in a dedicated herb garden. “I absolutely love growing herbs,” shares Kim Stoddart, the Climate Change Gardener. “Not only do they provide the most delightful array of flavour options for cooking, these plants are hugely beneficial for wildlife and incredibly good for us to boot.” As mentioned by Kim, herbs can be beneficial throughout your garden. They can bring many benefits ecologically within a range of different planting schemes, for beneficial wildlife attraction and for pest control, for example. “I grow a lot of herbs at home as I’m fascinated by them and their uses,” shares Edible Bristol’s founder Sara Venn. Considering Garden Conditions Mexican Giant Hyssop, Catmint and more The main thing to remember when planning a dedicated herb garden, however, is that not all herbs will thrive in the same growing conditions. In order to grow as many herbs as possible in a herb garden, you need to give careful consideration to their growing needs – you need to consider which herbs can be planted and grow well together, and which do not. Remember, when we consider common herbs, there are herbs which prefer sunny, free-draining conditions, herbs that prefer sunny conditions but have higher moisture requirements, and herbs that can cope better in some shade. By grouping herbs into these broad categories, you can determine where best to grow each herb, and which others should grow well alongside them. Mediterranean Herbs For Free-Draining, Sunny Conditions The first category to consider are Mediterranean herbs, which require sunny and free-draining conditions. These are all great choices for a free-draining bed or border, dedicated herb garden (or container garden) in full sun, which is south or perhaps west-facing. Common herbs which need these conditions and which will grow well together include: 1) Rosemary 2) Lavender 3) Thyme 4) Marjoram 5) Oregano 6) Sage (and other Salvias) 7) Tarragon 8) Summer / Winter Savory 9) Lemon Verbena 10) Catmint 11) Agastache 12) Echinacea 13) Yarrow 14) Mace Herbs For Moister, Sunny Locations Many other herbs also like full sun, and usually fairly free-draining soils or growing media, but prefer somewhat more moist growing conditions than the above. Basil, Chives and more in a herb garden Some examples of herbs of this type include: 1) Basil 2) Thai Basil 3) Coriander 4) Dill 5) Fennel 6) Lemon balm 7) Lemongrass 8) Borage 9) Chamomile 10) Feverfew 11) Chicory 12) Bergamot 13) Garlic Chives 14) Anise 15) Salad Burnet 16) Valerian Herbs For Partial, Light Or Dappled Shade Finally, there are those herbs which can thrive in partial, light or dappled shade. Here are some examples: 1) Mints 2) Parsley 3) Chervil 4) Comfrey 5) Angelica 6) Lovage 7) Sorrels 8) Marshmallow 9) Tansy 10) Rue 11) Alexanders 12) Meadowsweet 13) Good King Henry 14) Herb Patience Among this list, Good King Henry is probably the best candidate for deep shade. Of course, thinking about the amount of sunlight herbs require, and their soil and moisture preferences will help you narrow down your choices and determine where to grow each one, and where they will grow well alongside one other. But whenever thinking about herbs to grow together, you also need to think about their root formation and growth habits, lifecycle and their specific characteristics and nutritional needs. So categorising herbs in this way is just a starting point. Growing as Wide a Range of Herbs as Possible Thinking about sunlight and soil/moisture requirements can also give you a starting point for creating and planting up a herb garden that can cater to the needs of as many different plants as possible. A simple, flat garden bed or planter could never provide optional conditions for all of the above. If you wish to create a dedicated herb garden with as many different herbs planted in it as possible, and want to include herbs from all the above categories, then you will have to get a little inventive. One interesting idea which allows you to grow herbs that would not usually thrive together in the same bed in as small an area as possible is the concept of a herb spiral. What Is A Herb Spiral? A herb spiral is a spiral-shaped 3D raised bed, which spirals down clockwise from the top to end at the base on the northern side. Herb spirals are usually around 1m high, and 1-2m in diameter, though even a smaller spiral could be beneficial. The idea behind this concept is that the spiral form creates a range of different growing conditions. The very top has the driest conditions (and the most depth for longer roots), the southern side of the spiral is sunny, and increasingly moist towards the base. And shady and moister conditions are created towards the base of the northern side. How To Make A Herb Spiral Bed There are a couple of different ways to make a herb spiral bed. The first method involves using the principles of hugelkultur to create a circular mound, rather than a long bed, with rotting wood at its core, and layers of organic matter around the outside. Topping this with soil or good quality compost, you can then decorate with stones or other natural materials to make a spiral form on this mound. Of course, this type of spiral bed will sink over time as the organic materials decompose. You can also make a more permanent herb spiral by building up a spiral form structure with logs, stones, bricks, or other natural or reclaimed materials. The walls of this structure (which are of course higher at the centre and lower towards the edges) are then filled with organic matter, compost or soil to create suitable growing conditions. Planting Herbs In A Herb Spiral Starting at the very top of the spiral, rosemary will appreciate the top position. Next, will come other herbs for free-draining conditions – perhaps thyme, marjoram and oregano, for example. On the sunny south side you might plant other common culinary herbs like basil, coriander and dill, and down and round to the less sunny sides, you may plant parsley and chervil. Finally, round to the north at the base, you might place some chives. Not all herbs will thrive in a herb spiral, and some may be too large or spreading for their inclusion to be a good idea. However, making a herb spiral is one way to grow a range of culinary herbs together, even when they have somewhat different environmental needs. Herbs That Don’t Grow Well Together One herb that does not always ‘play well’ with other herbs is mint. Mint Mints (and other related plants) are very vigorous, and can quickly grow and spread, outcompeting their neighbouring herbs and taking over an area. In some areas, mints’ ability to spread can be beneficial. They can be used to create good ground cover in the dappled shade in a fruit tree guild or forest garden, for example. But in a dedicated herb bed, they can be problematic. If you do decide to place mint into a dedicated herb garden, such as a herb spiral, be sure to place them in a sunken pot, so they do not spread. In a sunken pot, mint can be a good choice for the north and lower position in a herb spiral. “It also gives the option to plant many different types of mint together, in a more organised fashion, such as pineapple mint and black peppermint,” adds Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Fennel Another herb that does not allow other herbs nearby to thrive is fennel. Fennel is a well known allelopathic plant – this means that it exudes chemicals that stunt or set back the growth of certain other plants close by. Fennel does not have a negative effect on all neighbours, and there are plants that are not affected by having it close by. But it is not usually a good idea to include fennel in a dedicated herb garden – though it is a good choice for your garden overall. Fennel should also not be planted close to dill, because the two can cross-pollinate, which you do not want if you want to save the seeds. You should also avoid sowing fennel close to coriander as the fennel can prevent coriander seeds from germinating, and the coriander can affect the germination of the fennel too. Others You should also avoid planting sage near alliums or common rue. And anecdotally, it is said to be best to avoid placing basil near rue or thyme. And note that summer savory may delay the germination of certain other herbs. Again, you can thank allelopathy. Companion Planting For Herbs Herbs obviously make excellent companion plants, aiding the growth and helping out a range of other plants. But herbs themselves can benefit from companion plants, as well as helping other plants and wildlife in your garden. “Gardeners are often fearful of planting large herbs in a space shared by smaller herbs,” shares Peter. “However, this overlooks innovative options for taming large herbs, such as bay. “Bay can be cloud pruned to form pom-poms of tight growth, contrasted against bare-stems. “You can attempt a similar approach with plants such as rosemary, which can become straggly over time. “Cloud pruning in late spring will allow these plants to filter light through and create useful dappled shade for growing other herbs.” Here are some beneficial herb combinations to consider: Plant anise or chamomile with other aromatic herbs as this is said to increase essential oil production. Yarrow may also increase the essential oil production of some aromatic herbs. Coriander is said to aid anise. Though dill and fennel can cross pollinate, this can be a beneficial combination if you do not wish to collect the seeds. Lovage is said to be a ‘nurse plant’ which promotes the healthy growth of plants (including many other herbs) close by.
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Common Garden Sage: How To Grow Salvia Officinalis And Its Common Cultivars
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Varieties How To Grow Sage Harvesting Common Problems References Sage is a fantastic herb to grow, not only for its many culinary uses, but it looks great when grown as an ornamental as well. It is easy to grow and care for and with hundreds of cultivars to grow, there is one to suit every spot, whether in the borders or in a container or pot outside the back door. Sage has only a few growing requirements – which this guide will cover – and if grown in the right place and looked after correctly, it can provide you with your own herbs to pick all year round. Overview Botanical Name Salvia officinalis Common Name(s) Common Sage; Culinary Sage Plant Type Herb / Shrub Native Area Mediterranean, Africa Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Blue or purple flowers When To Sow March, April, May Plant Out June, July Harvesting Months Year-Round Salvia officinalis, common garden sage or sage as it is most commonly referred to, is an evergreen small shrub from the Lamiaceae family.1 It is an intensely aromatic herb, with soft green-grey leaves and light blue flowers in summer. Classified as a sub-shrub, it is also often described as a perennial as in some parts of the UK – it may lose its leaves and die back a bit in winter, only to regrow again come spring. Native to the Mediterranean, its name stems from the Latin ‘salvere’, which translates as ‘to be well’.2 Varieties There are numerous cultivars of sage to grow, with some being rather tricky to come by here in the UK. However, there are some that are simply stunning and widely available, with foliage ranging from white and green to deep purple. S. officinalis ‘Purpurascens’ AGM ‘Purple sage’ as it is widely known, is a dwarf shrub growing to no more than H1M x W1M. With stunning purple stems and foliage when young, which turn green or grey with age, it produces small purple or blue flowers in summer. Its flowers will act as a magnet to bees and other pollinators. S. officinalis ‘Icterina’ AGM S. officinalis ‘Variegata’ as it is sometimes known, is a variegated dwarf shrub with yellow-gold and pale green foliage and pale blue flowers. Growing to an eventual size of H1M x W1M, it is another ‘Plant for Pollinators’ that will prove popular amongst bees and butterflies. S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ is another variegated variety, but with white and green leaves which are tinted pink on the new growth and produce blue flowers in early summer. A small, but spreading shrub, it will grow to H.4M x W.3M and is well suited to containers and pots. How To Grow Sage Being native to warmer climates, it is no surprise that sages grow best in full sun, a south or west-facing spot is ideal. Sage requires free-draining soil and the plants hate their roots becoming waterlogged, especially during winter. Sages are widely available from spring onwards as potted plants to grow directly in the ground or in containers. Soil Requirements If grown in heavy soils, it is advisable to add some grit to the compost mix or to the bottom of the planting hole, if planting directly into a border. If growing in pots, feet can also be used to lift the pot a few centimetres off the ground to help excess water drain away from the roots. Watering Sages are fairly drought-tolerant, but need to be watered until established and during hot and dry periods. However, try not to overwater as doing so can cause the plant to sulk. Pruning Pruning sage plants is relatively easy, they simply require any flowers to be deadheaded and the foliage lightly pruned for shape and size straight after flowering in summer. Winter Hardiness S. officinalis is hardiness rated as H5, meaning it is hardy down to temperatures of -10 to -15°C and will survive most winters here in the UK. Sages may struggle during a wet winter though. They are thankfully easy to propagate and grow as back-ups in case they don’t survive a harsh winter. Growing Sage From Seed Sage can be grown from seed in spring, which even though is a far cheaper option, will take longer until it can be used for cooking. To grow from seed: Simply fill a small pot with a peat-free multi-purpose compost and sow 3-5 seeds spaced out evenly on top. Cover lightly with compost or vermiculite and water gently – germination requires a temperature of 21°C, which either a warm indoor windowsill or a propagator can provide. Once germinated, move to a spot with indirect sunlight and allow to grow on until 3-5cm tall. Remove or transplant all but one seedling per pot. Grow the seedlings on under cover until all risk of frost has passed, when they can then be hardened off before planting or placing outside. Sage is easy to grow from cuttings and is a reliable way to produce more plants for free. Growing Sage From Cuttings For the best chance of success, cuttings roughly 8–10cm long of new growth can be taken from May to July. To prepare the cuttings: Cut just below a leaf node and strip off the lower leaves using a clean and sharp knife or pair of secateurs. Leaving just a few leaves at the top of each stem, place the cuttings 5cm deep around the edge of a pot filled with multi-purpose compost and water. Cuttings do not like to be allowed to dry out. To prevent this, a clean plastic bag can be placed over the top of the pot and cuttings, but make sure the bag does not touch the leaves. Keep out of direct sunlight, remove the bag after approximately 3 weeks and continue to grow until each cutting has developed its own roots and can then be potted on. Harvesting Sage leaves can be picked all year round, although it is said that the young shoots and leaves in summer can be the most flavoursome. Leaves can be picked individually or a small stem taken and used fresh, dried or frozen. To store as dried herbs, cut a bunch of stems and hang to dry in a dark and airy place. Once completely dry, they can then be stored in a sterile and airtight jar until needed. “As with other garden herbs, the tips or chopped leaves can be frozen in ice cubes and then put straight into stews and casseroles in winter,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This has become my go-to method in a kitchen with limited storage space.” Common Problems Sages are on the whole relatively pest and disease-free, although they can be susceptible to slug and snail and capsid bug damage. Slugs & Snails Slugs and snails can be troublesome when growing sage plants, especially when the plants are young. Slugs and snails will often leave a slimy trail and holes in the foliage behind them, even if you don’t see them during daylight hours. Slugs and snails are so prolific that some damage needs to be tolerated. However, certain measures can be taken to reduce the threat. Slugs tend to eat at night and a torch-lit slug hunt can prove surprisingly effective, along with using copper barriers, beer traps and encouraging predators such as hedgehogs, frogs and toads and birds in the garden. Capsid Bugs Capsid bugs attack several ornamentals including hydrangeas, fuchsias and sages. Feeding on plant sap, they damage the foliage and new buds leaving behind tell-tale holes. Being up to 1cm long they are easy to spot and regular checks of sage plants from early spring is recommended, before a more serious infestation might occur. Non-chemical controls are limited, but encouraging predators such as birds, hedgehogs and beetles may help. Chemical controls can include fatty acids and plant oils, however these sprays may need frequent re-application, as per their instructions. For heavy infestations, insecticides are available – however, they must not be used when the plant is in flower, as this can pose a danger to bees and other pollinators. References 1. Garden sage – Salvia officinalis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/garden-sage 2. Italian word of the day: “Salve.” (2018, October 22). The Local Italy. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.thelocal.it/20181022/italian-word-of-the-day-salve
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Tarragon Isn't Always The Easiest Herb To Grow, But Works Well In The Right Conditions
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Tarragon? How To Grow Tarragon Companion Planting Growing From Seed Planting Tarragon Tarragon Plant Care References Tarragon is a useful culinary herb to grow in your garden or indoors. It is not always the easiest herb to grow here in the UK, but this simple guide should help you understand it better – and to make the right choices and care for it in the right way if you want to grow it at home. Overview Botanical Name Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa Common Name(s) French Tarragon, Russian Tarragon Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pale yellow When To Sow / Plant Out April, May, June, July, August Harvesting Months June, July, August, September There are two main types of culinary tarragon, informally known as French tarragon and Russian tarragon. French Tarragon A. dracunculus var. sativa, is a common culinary herb. French tarragon is considered to be the superior herb for kitchen use and it is one of the fines herbes of French cuisine. Russian Tarragon Sometimes considered a variant of A. dracunculus – botanically named A. dracunculoides – is considered to be weaker in flavour, but is better equipped to survive colder temperatures and tends to grow more vigorously. It spreads at the roots, thrives on neglect, and copes with poor soils and even drought. While not great as a culinary herb, Russian tarragon does have a range of other uses and is sometimes grown where French tarragon will not thrive. In the UK, French tarragon is usually the variety recommended for cultivation. This is a short-lived perennial herb which, though it will usually only continue producing for a few years, can be propagated for a continued supply. Why Grow Tarragon? Growing tarragon, especially French Tarragon, is a great choice for those who love cooking with their own homegrown produce and herbs. The aromatic leaves have a lovely liquorice or anise-like flavour and can be used fresh or dried for later use.1 Additionally, tarragon is notable for its ability to attract beneficial wildlife to the garden. It is also said to aid in repelling certain pest species as well as sheltering beneficial insects. How To Grow Tarragon Tarragon needs a warm, dry and sunny position, with well-drained neutral or slightly alkaline soil. It is most frequently grown in a dedicated herb garden alongside other Mediterranean herbs which enjoy the same or similar growing conditions like rosemary, lavender, marjoram, oregano, thyme etc. However, it may also be beneficial to consider placing tarragon (either in the ground or in containers) around the crops you are growing in your kitchen garden for beneficial wildlife attraction and organic pest control. Companion Planting Like other aromatic herbs, tarragon makes a great companion plant for a range of garden crops and other plants. Anecdotally, some have also traditionally believed it to enhance the growth and flavour of other crops grown close by – so you may also wish to consider growing tarragon in pots close to annual vegetable areas, or placing tarragon around the edges of annual beds. Tarragon is said to be a particularly beneficial companion plant for aubergines and peppers, though it could aid a range of other plants too. Growing From Seed French tarragon is a perennial herb that does not flower or set seed reliably, meaning it is not usually grown from seed. When seed for tarragon is sold, this is usually the inferior form of Russian tarragon. If you wish to grow French tarragon, you will usually purchase pot-grown plants in spring. These tarragon plants are usually potted up into larger pots filled with a free-draining growing medium, or they are planted out into free-draining garden soil in a sunny, sheltered spot. Planting Tarragon If you are growing tarragon in a pot, choose a container which allows for dry and free-draining conditions as the plants are said to taste better when not grown in moist conditions, in relatively poor soil. A terracotta pot is ideal for growing herbs which prefer drier and more free-draining conditions. Fill your container with a peat-free multi-purpose compost with plenty of horticultural grit. Make sure you place a crock at the base – and use a pot stand – to ensure that water can always drain away freely. Plant the tarragon to the same depth in this container as it was in its previous one. If you are planting tarragon out in your garden, be sure to choose a site where water drains freely, and where the tarragon will get as much warmth and sun as possible. Make sure that you avoid frost pockets, and any areas which become waterlogged – tarragon roots will rot in wet or heavy soils. Plant out in spring as soon as the weather has warmed reliably and frosts are well passed. Tarragon Plant Care French tarragon is not as easy as some other perennial herbs to grow. While it can be very tolerant of poor soils and free drainage, it can be fussy about other conditions and it is important to care for your plants correctly if you want to see the best results. Watering Though tarragon likes free-draining conditions, it is important not to let the growing medium dry out entirely, especially when you are growing tarragon in pots. Young plants, and plants grown in containers, will require more frequent watering than mature specimens and those growing in the ground. Make sure that you water regularly throughout the growing season, but do not overwater. Try also to ensure that plants do not stand in water during heavy rains, or suffer excessive watering, as this can cause the roots to rot. Pruning & Harvesting You can pick the leaves of tarragon any time throughout the growing season. The leaves will continue to come as long as the plant does not flower. It is good practice to cut back or harvest around half of your plants in around June for a continuous harvest. If you see flower buds emerging, you should nip these out so that the plants continue to produce their leaves. Pests & Problems Tarragon can be very popular with slugs, especially early in the season and when plants are young and small. Remain vigilant as you may lose entire plants to these pests if you do not catch them early. Pick slugs by hand to remove them, use physical barriers, and remember that the best way to control slugs in an organic garden is to entice plenty of their predators to your garden to keep their numbers down. Tarragon can also be susceptible to fungal infections like powdery mildew and rust. Avoid overcrowding, ensure adequate drainage, make sure you are watering correctly, and grow in cooler conditions to reduce the chances of these problems taking hold. Remove and carefully dispose of any affected plant material as quickly as possible. Winter Care French tarragon is borderline hardy, so will need to be in a sheltered position over the winter months, or moved under cover in colder areas. In colder areas, you can also consider protecting the plant with a cloche or horticultural fleece. The above-ground growth will die back each autumn, but new growth should emerge in the spring as long as the roots remained healthy over the winter months. Waterlogging rather than temperature is usually the main issue, so it is often a good idea to move the tarragon to an unheated greenhouse or cool porch, for example, over the coldest and wettest part of the year. “French Tarragon will not survive the winter wet in my garden,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I grow it in a pot and keep it in a cold greenhouse over winter, making sure to water very minimally whilst it is not in active growth.” Placing pots in the rain shadow of a wall or fence may also help. Propagating By Division French tarragon, as mentioned above, cannot usually be reliably propagated by seed – but once you have a tarragon plant, you can still increase your plant stock and ensure an ongoing supply of this useful herb by taking root divisions of mature plants. Remember, though tarragon is a perennial plant, it will run out of steam after a few years. Taking divisions is a good way to make sure you have new plants to replace the older ones. In autumn, take a mature, large tarragon plant in a pot. Remove the plant from its pot and saw the root ball in half. Repot one half, using fresh, peat-free multipurpose compost and grit, then divide the remaining half into a number of root cuttings. Cut off the top growth from your root cuttings, and prune off thin straggly roots so that each cutting can fit into a module or small pot. Take care not to do any damage to the main creeping rhizome which stores the energy for next year’s crop. Then pot up these root cuttings and water lightly. Label them, then place them in an unheated greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frame over winter before planting out the following spring. Tarragon is not always the easiest herb to grow in the UK, but it is worth it for those gourmands who want to grow all the fresh ingredients needed for their culinary creations in their own garden. References 1. Tarragon. (2018, December 17). FoodPrint. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://foodprint.org/real-food/tarragon/
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Oregano Is An Extremely Useful Culinary Herb: Here Are Some Growing Options
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Oregano? How To Grow Oregano Companion Planting Oregano Plant Care Common Problems Winter Care References Oregano is a very useful culinary herb and also a great companion plant. Oregano is a herb with which many people are familiar in the kitchen – but oregano is not just useful in your kitchen, it can be handy in your garden too. Overview Botanical Name Origanum vulgare Common Name(s) Oregano Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Many small, pink flowers When To Sow February, March, April Plant Out May, June Flowering Months July, August, September Harvesting Months June, July, August, September Oregano – Origanum vulgare – is a flowering herb in the mint family (Lamiaceae).1 Originally native (and with strong connections to) the Mediterranean region, it is now grown in gardens and has naturalised in many areas across the temperate northern hemisphere.2 It is closely related to marjoram, another interesting culinary herb to consider growing in your garden.3 “Marjorams are all in the oregano genus,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “Sweet marjorams botanical name is Origanum majorana, and, as mentioned, what we commonly refer to as oregano is Origanum vulgare.“ This is a perennial herb, though it is often grown as an annual in colder areas where it does not overwinter successfully. In the kitchen, oregano is often used dried rather than fresh, when the flavour is more intense. It is a staple in Italian cuisine and is also commonly utilised in other Mediterranean cuisines and in Mexican cooking. Pungent and strong tasting, it is popular in a range of dishes and is a versatile and useful ingredient to have on hand when growing your own. Why Grow Oregano? One of the main reasons to grow oregano is so that you can use it in your kitchen, as a culinary herb. However, Oregano is also an aromatic herb which can be a good companion plant for a range of common crops. It attracts a range of beneficial insects which help to maintain balance and reduce pest dominance in an organic garden. For example, it brings in predatory insects, which help keep down sap-sucker populations. What is more, oregano can also be an attractive plant – it has beautiful flowers when in bloom, which not only attract wildlife but which also enhance the appearance of your garden. Some particularly attractive varietals to consider are: ‘Aureum Crispum’ ‘Compactum’ How To Grow Oregano Like other Mediterranean herbs, oregano thrives in a warm and sunny location. It is hardy down to around -20°C in the right places, though needs a free-draining soil and will not thrive in waterlogged or excessively damp conditions. It can tolerate an exposed spot, but will generally do best somewhere a little more warm and sheltered. It is not particularly fussy when it comes to soil pH but will do best in slightly alkaline conditions. This is a fairly drought-tolerant plant, which can cope with even relatively poor soils. When growing herbs, it is always important to remember that you have a number of choices about how and where you grow them. Oregano can be grown: In a dedicated herb garden alongside other Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, marjoram and thyme, for example. In perennial planting schemes alongside other flowering perennials or perennial food crops which like similar growing conditions. In guilds for fruit trees or other fruiting perennials. Around the fringes of annual cultivation areas as a companion plant. In pots or containers; in a windowsill herb garden. Growing From Seed Oregano can be grown from seed, though it is more common to purchase young plants in pots to place in your garden. If you do decide to sow oregano seed, you can do so indoors any time between February and May: Fill a small pot with seed compost and sow seeds on the surface. Cover the seeds very lightly with sieved compost, water the pot, and place this in a propagator to germinate. Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick out three seedlings to place into a pot around 8cm in diameter, filled with a peat-free multipurpose compost. Companion Planting As mentioned above, oregano is beneficial as a wildlife attractant (and may also repel, confuse or distract certain pest species). For this reason, it makes a great companion plant for: Tomatoes and peppers. Squash, cucumbers and other cucurbits. Brassicas (cabbage family plants). Grape vines, and a number of fruit trees and fruit bushes. Other Mediterranean herbs (rosemary, lavender, thyme etc.). This does not include more moisture-loving herbs like basil, chives and mint. Just remember that oregano should only be planted in the same growing area or same container as other plants which like free-draining conditions. Chives and oregano So in the case of some of these crops, it may be better to place oregano in a container close by, rather than actually in the same bed. Oregano Plant Care As long as oregano is being grown in suitable conditions, it should not be too difficult to care for. Here are the main jobs when caring for oregano that you should keep in mind: Watering Oregano grown outdoors will usually only require additional watering during particularly pronounced or prolonged dry periods. However, when growing in containers it is important to remember that oregano plants will dry out more quickly and need to be watered more frequently. Keep the growing medium moist, but also make sure that you do not overwater as this can cause a range of problems. Harvesting Oregano leaves can be harvested from your plant from late spring onwards. To harvest, simply cut off a few shoots and then remove the leaves to use as desired. It is best to harvest before the flowers open as this is when the leaves have the best taste. Just remember to leave some flowers to bring ecological benefits to the wildlife in your garden. The leaves can be used fresh, or dried before use; you can also consider freezing some oregano in water in an ice cube tray and preserving it that way. Feeding After the flowers begin to fade, you can cut back the plants – giving them a trim to keep them compact and healthy. After doing so, you should give pot-grown plants a boost by applying an organic liquid feed. Feeding oregano growing in the ground is not typically required. Propagation To save seeds from oregano: Harvest the flowers as they start to dry out. Bundle the flower heads with twine and hand them upside down to dry for a couple of weeks. Once the flowers have dried fully, shake them over a paper bag to shake free any seeds left in the flowers. Winnow to separate the seeds from the chaff. Store the seeds in a cool, dry location in a sealed container and use them within 3-5 years. You can also propagate oregano by taking cuttings – this is often easier, and you will usually have the best results if you take softwood cuttings in spring. Take cuttings around 7-10cm long, cutting diagonally just above a node; remove all but the uppermost two leaves from the stem section. Dip the bottom of the cuttings in rooting hormone and place the cuttings into a pot of moist potting soil and wait to see healthy new growth. Wait an additional month or so to allow the new plants to establish before transplanting them to their final growing positions. Common Problems Aphids are attracted to oregano, and can become an issue, but the creatures that attract aphids should arrive and eat these pests to keep their numbers down. When growing oregano under cover, red spider mites and two-spotted mites may be an issue. In a greenhouse, you may wish to consider using a biological control. You should also mist plants regularly as these pests thrive in lower humidity and hot, dry conditions, Winter Care As winter sets in, oregano plants will die back. Cut back dead stems to the base. One of the key things to remember is that oregano is tolerant of cold temperatures and should come back next spring. That being said, these plants cannot tolerate wet and waterlogged conditions. For this reason, make sure that oregano grown in containers are placed on pot feet which allow excess water to drain away freely – and place pots in a sheltered position, away from excess water. In order to continue to enjoy oregano leaves in the winter months, however, you can also consider lifting the plants before the first frosts in autumn and placing them in a bright, light location indoors or under cover. References 1. Oregano – Origanum. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/origanum/common-name/oregano/ 2. Origanum vulgare. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:453395-1 3. University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources. (2022, April). Oregano & Sweet Marjoram. Regents of the University of California. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Food_Gardening/Feature_Vegetables/Oregano_-_Marjoram/
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How To Grow Parsley: You'll Need To Sow Anew Each Year But Needs Little Care
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Parsley? How To Grow Parsley Common Problems Storage References Amongst the most popular herbs and spices you’ll find parsley, sometimes dried but preferably fresh. The distinctive flavour works in all manner of dishes, whether as a sprig on top of a bowl of baba ganoush, chopped up and worked through some falafel mix, or as the main flavour in something like tabbouleh. And if you enjoy cooking and love the fresh, crisp flavour of parsley, there’s nothing better than having your own supply ready to go as and when you need it. Overview Botanical Name Petroselinum crispum Common Name(s) Parsley Plant Type Herb Native Area Northwest Africa and Balkan Peninsula Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous When To Sow March, April, May, June Plant Out July While it’s possible to buy parsley fresh – either in a packet or growing in a pot – there’s a special charm to growing your own. Not only can you humble-brag to friends and family that you grew some of the ingredients in this delicious plate of food yourself, but you’ll also notice subtle differences in the flavour. Parsley is a plant grown mainly as a herb, thanks to its distinctive and versatile flavour. The plant is native to Mediterranean countries but thanks to its popularity, has now been naturalised in many other regions.1 The type of parsley you’re probably most familiar with is curly leaf parsley: commonly used as a garnish to lift a dish both aesthetically and in terms of flavour. Flat-leaved French parsley is also used in cooking and is grown in the same way. Why Grow Parsley? Realistically, the best reason to grow parsley is for its culinary applications. As a plant it’s not the most attractive or exciting, so growing it to look at isn’t really recommended. If you enjoy cooking though, and especially if you enjoy cooking dishes with some Mediterranean element, a supply of your own fresh, home-grown parsley will revolutionise your cooking endeavours. Rather than using a few sprigs from a pre-bought packet then watching in despair as the rest slowly go soggy and turn black, you can instead snip bits off of the mother plant as and when they’re required. How To Grow Parsley Growing parsley isn’t complicated. In fact, there’s nothing here beyond the scope of even the most beginner gardener: you just need the most basic supplies like seeds, compost, and either a couple of pots or a patch of ground to work with. Bear in mind before starting that while technically parsley is a biennial, it behaves like an annual when grown for food purposes, meaning you’ll need to sow anew each year. Growing From Seed One of the great things about growing your own parsley is that you can sow in such a way that guarantees a succession of harvests throughout the year. Sowing parsley is cheap and easy, and having a series of fresh plants coming into maturity in fortnightly or monthly intervals gives you constant access to the highest quality sprigs: Place parsley seeds by hand in rows 30cm apart. Leave a centimetre between each seed to give them space to grow. Push seeds about a centimetre below the surface of the soil: not too deep otherwise they won’t be able to grow. Planting Out Once your parsley is established, move them to allow 15cm between each plant. It can take up to six weeks for the seeds to germinate so don’t worry if things appear to be moving slowly. Where To Grow Parsley Parsley likes soil that’s well-drained, and will favour a spot with full sun or partial shade. If you’re growing parsley in a pot you can move it around, but if you’re growing in the ground take care to check the conditions are right before deciding on a spot. Fertilising Parsley enjoys seaweed-based fertiliser, and applying this every once in a while will encourage a bushier and more vibrant bloom. Watering Avoid letting the soil dry out as young parsley plants like to have access to good amounts of moisture. Keep an extra careful eye on your parsley plant during hot summer spells, as it’s prone to get dehydrated and dry out. Pruning Trim back any areas of your parsley plant that are turning yellow, as this will allow the plant to direct growth towards the stronger areas. Yellow parsley isn’t as attractive or tasty as its bright green brethren, so there’s no sense keeping hold of it from a culinary perspective either. Common Problems Keep your eyes peeled for these pests, as they might take a fancy to your parsley crop and cause damage if left unattended. Carrot Fly Who’d believe that a specific type of fly would evolve to harass carrots and – like parsley – other members of the carrot family? Well unfortunately, you better believe it. These flies, Psila rosae, focus their entire life cycle on the pillaging of carrots and their close cousins. By tunnelling into the roots and eating various parts of the plant, these pests cause damage and rotting if left unattended. “Prevention is the best cure for carrot fly, so sow thinly to prevent thinning seedlings which attracts the fly, use insect-proof netting to cover crops, water biological controls such as nematodes into the soil and rotate crops by not growing them in the same place in subsequent years,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. As a last resort, use an organic pesticide spray if you see these critters investigating your parsley crop. Slugs & Snails Slugs and snails, predictably, like to interfere with parsley crops. They will happily chew through the leaves, with the combined effect of reducing the amount available for cooking, and making you wary of using what’s left in case it’s covered in slime trails. By planting parsley near onions and garlic you can deter these slimy visitors. Alternatively look into the various types of traps and barriers available to keep them away from your crop and consider biological controls such as nematodes. Storage While best used fresh, there are a few ways to store parsley to keep your crop in good condition for later use. Freezing is one option: chop up leaves, then fill ice cube tray sections with parsley and water to make little parsley cubes. Simply chuck one of these into the pan when cooking a dish that requires this herb! You can also dry parsley by hanging it in bunches in a warm, dark, airy space. After a few weeks it’ll be noticeably dry, and you can crush up the leaves (either in a pestle and mortar, or with a quick blitz in a blender) and store them in a jar or similar container. Again, this format of parsley isn’t great when you need that distinctive fresh flavour, but works very well in cooked dishes. Hopefully you’re now intrigued and excited to grow your own parsley. With cheap seeds and easy-to-follow growing instructions, it’s hard to go far wrong when growing this plant. References 1. Mahr, S. (n.d.-h). Parsley, Petroselinum crispum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/parsley-petroselinum-crispum/
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