Growing
Growing Valerian: Useful For Filling Space And Adding Structure To Perennial Borders
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Valerian? Where To Grow Valerian Companion Planting How To Grow Valerian Plant Care Harvesting Valerian Root References Common Valerian can be a great perennial to grow in a UK garden. Common Valerian is a herbaceous perennial native to Eurasia.1 It forms upright plants around 1.5m tall, and bears round clusters of small white or pink flowers in summer. Overview Botanical Name Valeriana officinalis Common Name(s) Valerian, St George’s Herb, All-Heal, Cat’s Valerian Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial Native Area Eurasia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small white or pink flowers When To Sow Indoors March Plant Out April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune February, March Deadheading Months July, August This plant is also known as ‘All-Heal’, ‘St. George’s Herb’ and ‘Cat’s Valerian’ – as well as by a range of other local names. This plant should not be confused with another wildflower and garden plant, called Red Valerian. While this can also be a useful garden plant, it is not the subject of this article. Why Grow Valerian? Valerian can be useful to add height and structure in perennial garden borders. It can also be useful for filling space, since it can self-seed readily if given the chance in the right conditions. Valerian is an attractive plant – but it is not just attractive to us – it also attracts beneficial wildlife to your garden. It is also worth noting that cats are attracted to Valerian (in much the same way as they are to catnip) so it can be a good idea to plant this in a certain area to keep cats out of other productive areas of your garden where you do not want them to be. Another reason that Valerian can be a useful companion plant is that it is a pretty good dynamic accumulator.2 The leaves of the plant are rich in phosphorus, in addition to other plant nutrients.3 They can be added to your compost heap, where they can aid microbial life and speed decomposition. In the same way as you might use comfrey tea, the plant can also be chopped and dropped as a mulch around plants which will benefit, or used to make an excellent liquid plant feed by simply adding the plant material to water. The thick tap roots of valerian can also help to break up compacted soil and improve drainage in heavier soils. Where To Grow Valerian Common valerian is H4 hardy, and can grow well in full sun or in partial or dappled shade. It will thrive in most typical garden soil types, though it prefers reasonably moist conditions. It is unfussy with regard to soil pH. Bearing these factors in mind, it can be a good choice for many gardens across the UK. Valerian can work well to provide height towards the back of a perennial border. It can work particularly well in more informal planting schemes, and wild, wildlife gardens. Since it likes moist conditions, it can be a good choice for the edge of a pond or stream in your garden. Since valerian attracts beneficial wildlife, including bees, butterflies and hoverflies, and thrives in dappled shade, it can also work well in a woodland garden, fruit tree, fruit bush or cane fruit guild, or forest garden design. It will be a good companion plant for fruiting trees and plants. One thing to note, however, is that you may not wish to grow valerian directly adjacent to a seating area, or a window or door of your home, since the smell of the flowers can be rather unpleasant up close. Companion Planting To maximise production in an orchard or garden, valerian is an excellent choice for guilds and companion planting. By drawing in pollinators and other beneficial insects, it can help to keep fruiting plants productive and healthy. Valerian will grow well alongside other herbs which can thrive in light, dappled shade, such as Alexanders, Angelica, Mints and Comfrey, for example. And these are all also useful in a guild or forest garden design. Good companions for valerian in a cottage garden scheme include many traditional cottage garden plants, such as Roses, Achillea, Daisies, Foxgloves, Hollyhocks, Geums and Hardy Geraniums, for example. Since valerian can also grow in full sun in moist conditions, it can also work well alongside other many other useful culinary herbs, perhaps around the edges of a vegetable garden, or in a dedicated herb garden area. How To Grow Valerian Valerian seeds can be sown in spring. However, you can also choose another means of propagation – you can take softwood cuttings in spring. You can also, at the same time of year or in autumn, divide existing Valerian clumps to form new plants. As a hardy plant, Valerian can be planted out in spring or in autumn. If you purchase a plant, this can also be planted out over the summer, though it is best to wait until the shoulder seasons to reduce transplantation stress. If you do plant out in summer, make sure that you keep your plants well-watered, especially during hot and dry periods. Plant Care Once the plants are established, Valerian is a great low-maintenance plant; it will require little care. Watering Mostly, this will just involve watering if the weather is dry. Remember, these are plants that like moist conditions. Cutting Back The only other thing to think about when it comes to Valerian care is cutting back. If you do not want your Valerian to self-seed freely then you should be sure to cut off faded flowers before the seeds are able to form. “Editing self-sown plants is a real skill that you need to learn if you like the dynamism that comes with a naturalistic style of planting,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Identifying seedlings is key to this way of gardening as removing seedlings avoids thickets of unwanted self-sown ‘weeds’.” However, in a wildlife-friendly garden, it can be a good idea to allow dead herbaceous perennial foliage to remain in place over the winter months before cutting back in the spring. Harvesting Valerian Root In late autumn, dig up the whole of the root. Wash the root thoroughly, removing the little fibrous roots from around the outside – the root can be used fresh or dried. To dry the root, place it undercover in an airy space. An outbuilding or shed is ideal, and you will likely not want to dry the root in your home, as, like the flowers (perhaps even worse) it gives off an unpleasant smell. Another thing to note is that unfortunately, the dried root can attract rats, as well as cats – so this is definitely something to bear in mind. References 1. Valerian officinalis, Common Valerian: identification, distribution, habitat. (n.d.). First Nature. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.first-nature.com/flowers/valeriana-officinalis.php 2. Valeriana officinalis Valerian, Garden valerian. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Valeriana+officinalis 3. Valerian. (n.d.). Research and Extension: A Grower’s Guide. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf2632.pdf
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How To Grow Cress - Perfect For Children's Activities Or A Windowsill Salad Crop
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Cress Harvesting References A dash of cress does lift an egg sandwich to the next level – but that’s far from capturing the full breadth and glory of the flavour contributions this humble leaf provides. And while cress is typically fairly cheap, there are also a few other potential benefits. Firstly, it’s as easy as anything – cress is one of the easiest things we’ve ever grown, making it a great introduction for new gardeners or for those of us trying to show young people the wonders of growing. “Cress germinates so easily that it makes it extremely useful as a plant for use in children’s activities, but it is also a great easy-to-grow salad crop for a window sill,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. And second, it’s versatile – there are several ways you can grow this plant (including inside eggs, as above), making it fun and flexible. Overview Botanical Name Lepidium sativum Common Name(s) Cress, Pepperwort, Pepper Grass, Poor Man’s Pepper Plant Type Annual / Herb Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Sprouts year-round Flowers None When To Sow Year-Round Harvesting Months Year-Round There are a few plants that go by the name cress, and while it’s unlikely that this confusion will lead to you buying the wrong plant, let us clarify. This plant is called Lepidium sativum. It’s the cress we’re all familiar with, and it’s closely related to mustard, as evidenced by its feisty flavour.1 In different parts of the UK this plant goes by regional names like ‘Pepperwort’, ‘Pepper Grass’ or, somewhat judgmentally, ‘Poor Man’s Pepper’. How To Grow Cress Now you’re properly introduced, let’s take a look at how to grow cress. Growing Indoors Growing cress indoors is easy – all you need is a container and something to put the seeds on (potting mix will do, but you can use kitchen roll or toilet roll as well). Here are the steps – Either spread a thin layer of potting mix, or line the bottom of the container with a layer of tissue a couple of sheets thick. Add a little water to get the mix or tissue moist. Not too wet! Sprinkle a few seeds on top. Cover the top of the container with cling film to trap moisture while letting light in. This will encourage better growth. Water occasionally, either with a gently running tap or with a spray bottle. If you prefer the aesthetic of growing cress in a flowerpot instead of a container, you can grow it more traditionally as well. To do this, add soil to a flowerpot and spread seeds on top, then push each one gently just below the surface. Cress also works well in a windowsill herb garden. While cress grows just fine on tissue, it will have access to far more nutrients when grown in soil. This will keep it growing for longer and extend your harvest – something to bear in mind when deciding how to grow it! Growing Outdoors If you’ve decided to grow outside, cress likes a cool and shady spot. Growing in direct sunlight leads to bitterness, making it much less pleasant to eat. Here are the steps for growing cress outdoors – Get hold of some cress seeds. Find your cool and shady spot. Sow seeds in rows, sprinkling a good amount of seeds into each row. They should be around half a centimetre below the surface. Water the cress right away, then water each day. Once your seeds start to germinate you should thin them out, leaving the strongest plants a couple of centimetres from each other. When growing cress outdoors you have a few options to make things a bit more interesting. First up is intercropping, which involves growing cress around other plants. Carrots and cress are a good pairing, as are cress and radishes. You can also set yourself up with a continuous harvest by staggering planting: to do this just plant out a new row each fortnight, starting in early spring. It’s OK to plant out cress before the last frost as it’s fairly hardy, so bear this in mind when planning planting times. Harvesting One thing you’ll notice about cress is that it grows quickly. It’s ready to eat within a couple of weeks of planting and tastes better when young, so don’t leave it too long to harvest. Harvesting is easy, too: simply trim down the stalks with scissors or, if you’ve got time to spare, by pinching them with your fingers. Once harvested the stalks will continue to grow, giving you more cress in a few days time. Most crops will yield 3-5 harvests before going to seed, at which point they’ll start to taste bitter and unpleasant. While cress is in its early seed leaf stage you can eat the whole stalk and seeds if you want to. Whether you go for indoor or outdoor growing, we’re sure you’ll get a lot from this plant. References 1. Garden Cress. (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/guide_taxa/341453
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Horticulturists Love To Grow Comfrey - It's A Garden 'Cult Classic' With Many Uses
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Comfrey Care & Growing Tips Background & Origins References Plain and humble, yet bursting with goodness and vitality – that’s comfrey in a nutshell. Though the small flowers possess their own rustic charm, this plant’s virtues are wholly practical. It is renowned for improving soil health, and its nutrient-rich foliage provides raw material for high-quality compost and fertiliser.1 Overview Botanical Name Symphytum officinale Common Name(s) Comfrey, Boneset, Knit bone Plant Type Perennial / Herb Native Area Europe, Asia, North America Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deiciduous Flowers Generally purple, pink, blue or cream-coloured When To Sow March, April, May, September, October, November Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune June, August, September Comfrey, native to the UK and Europe, is one of the more humble and unsung members of the Plant Kingdom.2 “It is not entirely clear whether it’s native to the UK or not, but comfrey is still a brilliant plant for bees and other pollinators,” shares Dave Goulson, an expert on all things bees. Not by any stretch a glamour plant that you will find in a stylish flower garden, comfrey is the floral equivalent of a cult classic movie. Thus – though it is indeed relatively unsung and even humble – this deciduous perennial has its own limited but very devoted following among wise, ‘back to nature’ gardeners. For the most part, comfrey’s cult status is not because of its ornamental oomph but because of its lengthy list of practical uses.3 Apart from foliage and the flowers, comfrey is one of those rare plants whose underground parts merit a few words. It has rhizomatous fleshy roots, the upper parts of which resemble tuberous vegetables or root vegetables. Among these is a long taproot that penetrates very deeply so as to ‘tap’ potassium, calcium and other mineral elements from deep down, bringing these up to the foliage (which is the reason that comfrey leaves are rich in minerals and chemical compounds).4 In addition, the mature plant’s root system is well-formed and extensive. Here are some pictures of comfrey growing in my garden: You can see the plant is in flower during the early summer months, in late June. Habitat & Growing Conditions Symphytum species are found throughout Eurasia, from the United Kingdom and Spain east up to West Siberia in the north and Iran to the south.5 Moist ground, especially along riverbanks and waterways, is this genus’s preferred habitat. It is also found in the grasslands and steppes of the Caucasus. A soil pH of slightly acidic to neutral, i.e. 6.1-7.3, is considered to be ideal for Symphytums though this tough plant will do well in any soil pH from about 5.1-8.4, which is a very wide range. A fully hardy plant, almost all species are hardy down to H7. How To Grow Comfrey Ordinary this plant might be but some or another variety will be found at your neighbourhood nursery. The larger garden centres stock most of the commonly grown varieties. Numerous comfrey varieties are available online. In any event, if a friend or relative has comfrey, you don’t need to buy it. Simply get a 15cm root cutting and you’ll have a new comfrey plant! Planting Comfrey Comfrey self-selects itself for cottage gardens, wildflower gardens, and kitchen gardens by virtue of its unglamourous but appealing appearance, combined with its beneficial value. Estate gardens and courtyard gardens? Probably not! While the sterile and non-spreading varieties can be grown in open ground, it may be wise to grow the self-seeding and rapidly-spreading species in large containers. Care & Growing Tips You really don’t need to ‘grow’ comfrey – this vigorous plant will grow by itself. Indeed, occasionally some species become invasive and hard to eradicate. Soil Requirements A rich, fertile loam, which may be a balanced mix of sand, chalk, clay and organic manure, is ideal for comfrey. Good drainage is preferable but comfrey is one of those plants that can live with poorly-drained soils. They prefer consistently moist – though not waterlogged – soil. The species prefer part shade or dappled sunlight whereas some cultivars do best in full sun. Pruning Avoid pruning/harvesting the leaves for the first year so that the plant’s root system can develop and get established. You can harvest the foliage after the plant has reached half its maximum height. Do so by grasping a handful of leaves and cutting them 8-10cm off the ground using a sharp knife or largeish pruning shears. If you like comfrey flowers, cut back the stems after flowering is done and you may get a rebloom. Common Problems Comfrey is a remarkably disease-free plant. Slugs and snails may attack it and occasionally it can succumb to powdery mildew but that’s about it in the UK. Background & Origins Symphytum officinale or common comfrey has become naturalised in the plains states of the United Kingdom and in a few regions of South America. Plants of this species were likely carried by the earliest British, Spanish, and other European migrants to the New World. Symphytum genus comfreys are not to be confused with wild comfrey. ‘Wild comfrey’ is, in fact, the common name of Cynoglossum virginianum, a plant that is native to the United States.6 It is related to Symphytum comfreys as it too is a member of the Borage Family. References 1. Howard, M. M., Plotkin, A., McClure, A., Klepac-Ceraj, V., Griffith, A. B., Brabander, D. J., & Jones, K. L. (2018). Comfrey Mulch Enriches Soil, But Does Not Improve an Indicator Crop within One Season. International Journal of Plant and Soil Science, 22(2), 1–9. https://doi.org/10.9734/ijpss/2018/40403 2. Common comfrey. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/wildflowers/common-comfrey 3. Comfrey: Its History, Uses & Benefits. (n.d.). Permaculture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.permaculture.co.uk/articles/comfrey-its-history-uses-benefits/ 4. Stallings, B. (2014, March 17). Does Comfrey Really Improve Soil? The Permaculture Research Institute. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.permaculturenews.org/2014/03/18/comfrey-really-improve-soil/ 5. Symphytum officinale. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:120815-1 6. Cynoglossum virginianum. (n.d.). The University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=cyvi
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Microgreens Can Be Grown At Home Year-Round For An Endless Supply - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Microgreens? Commonly Grown Microgreens How To Grow Microgreens 1) Fill Your Containers 2) Sow Your Seeds 3) Water Your Seeds 4) Place In A Warm, Sunny Spot 5) Replenish Your Seeds! 6) Harvesting Your Microgreens Common Problems References Microgreens, or micro leaves, as they are sometimes known, are simply salad, herb and vegetable plants harvested much earlier when they are still small. They are simple to grow and incredibly flavoursome. If the idea of growing microgreens at home seems a bit alien, don’t worry – this guide will cover what they are and how to grow and care for them. What Are Microgreens? Microgreens are simply the very young plants of the herbs, salad and vegetables you might normally eat or grow at home, only harvested when they are tiny. Microgreens are really versatile and can be grown on a windowsill, greenhouse or even outside during the warmer months. If grown inside, it is even possible to produce them year-round for an endless supply. It is thought that they were first introduced in an American restaurant as early as the 1980s, but didn’t become more well known until later and the big global business they are today.1 When learning about microgreens, it is important to note that they are not the same as sprouts – which can be grown in a similar way, but the difference being that microgreens have true leaves, and take slightly longer to grow before being ready to eat. Microgreens are widely available to purchase fresh here in the UK – however, they’re also a great option to grow at home and get children involved in growing their own food. The process can be a fun and sensory experience and the fact that they grow so quickly helps keep them interested. Commonly Grown Microgreens Microgreens can encompass a huge variety of plants in an array of colours and tastes, including herbs, salads, brassicas, legumes and grasses. The most common ones grown here in the UK, categorised by families include: Brassicaceae Family Includes: Broccoli, cabbage, rocket, kale, watercress, mizuna, mustard and radish. Leguminosae / Fabaceae Family Includes: Pea, broad bean. Asteraceae Family Includes: Lettuce, endive. Lamiaceae Family Includes: Mint, oregano, basil, lemon balm. Poaceae Family Includes: Wheatgrass. Some microgreens, such as mizuna and rocket can be a bit spicy, even bitter and others like basil almost sweet, so there is something for everyone’s taste buds. How To Grow Microgreens 1) Fill Your Containers Microgreens can be grown in almost anything, from seed trays and yoghurt pots to lengths of guttering. The containers do not even have to have drainage holes, but this can help. To grow microgreens, fill your container, almost to the top, with a fine-grade compost and gently tamp the soil down. You can also use a linen mat as shown in the example above. 2) Sow Your Seeds Unlike when growing ‘normal’ sized plants, microgreen seeds can be sown rather thickly. This is because the shoots are going to be harvested much sooner and the plants are not going to grow large and compete for space. Once the seeds are sown, press them down gently. 3) Water Your Seeds Water with a spray bottle ensuring the seeds and compost are moist. Using a spray bottle, rather than a jug or watering can, is a gentle way of watering and will reduce any likelihood of the seeds being dispersed. It is often recommended to soak the seeds overnight, prior to sowing, to speed up germination, but this is not strictly necessary as they are such a quick-growing crop anyway. 4) Place In A Warm, Sunny Spot For the seeds to germinate, place the container on a sunny windowsill, south facing is ideal and remember to keep the soil moist. In the right environment, the seeds should germinate within 2 – 3 days. Having germinated, the microgreens need light to continue to grow. A sunny windowsill is more than adequate usually, but lights, such as LED grow lights can be used, especially in winter when light levels are at their lowest. Continue to keep the seedlings well-watered, but don’t overdo it, as overwatering can lead to problems, including mould growth. 5) Replenish Your Seeds! If you get the bug of growing microgreens, it can be surprising how quickly you go through seeds! Thankfully seed can be purchased online in bulk bags of 500g or more, which is more cost-effective and should keep you in microgreens for a while. Even old vegetable seeds found in the bottom of the garden seed tin are worth a go and often work well. This is especially true of brassicas – the seeds are so small and there are often many left to be found at the bottom of the packet. It is possible to have a continual supply of microgreens, rather than a large glut, through a process called successional sowing. This isn’t as complicated as it sounds; it simply means sowing a new batch of seeds every week, so that as one batch has been harvested another one is growing on and almost ready. 6) Harvesting Your Microgreens Once the plants are about 5 – 7.5cm tall and usually after 2 – 3 weeks, the shoots are ready for harvesting. The main thing is that they have developed their true leaves. To harvest, simply cut just above the substrate with a clean and sharp pair of scissors or snips and enjoy. Microgreens are best eaten fresh and one of the great things about growing microgreens at home is that you only need to harvest what you need then and there – the rest will happily continue to keep until you next need them. Some microgreens will regrow, especially if cared for and if cut just above the lowest leaf. If they don’t or if you would rather sow a fresh batch, the old soil can be composted and you are ready to start again. Common Problems Why Are My Microgreens Falling Over? Microgreens falling over can be a rather common problem when growing at home and there can be several causes. Lack of water is possibly the most common reason, so try giving them a good drink and see if they recover in a few hours. But do water gently as the pressure from a jug or tap can force them over as well. Another potential cause of them falling over is because they have grown too thin and leggy and subsequently become weak. This is often because they have not received enough light and may need to be moved to a sunnier spot or placed under a grow light. “Stems rotting off where they meet the soil is another common cause of collapsing,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “This can be caused by overwatering or lack of drainage from the pot. Adding some grit to the sowing mix could help.” Why Haven’t My Seeds Germinated? Seeds might not germinate for a number of reasons, including the seeds being too old, of poor quality or not being in proper contact with the soil. Germination usually only takes a few days, so any longer and it might be worth checking the sow by date of the seed packet or trying a different brand if it continues. It’s important to remember that seeds need good contact with the soil, the right temperature and to be kept moist, as poor germination can often be caused by just poor soil contact, being too cold or being allowed to dry out. Why Is There Mould On My Microgreens? Mould on microgreens can sometimes be confused with white root hairs, which are usually nothing to worry about and often disappear in a few days. If the white substance around the base of the seedlings does not look hair or feather-like, then it is most probably mould. Mould is most often caused by poor drainage, so if you are using trays or containers without holes, it might be worth trying one with holes, to allow excess water to drain. High humidity can also encourage mould, so opening a window or placing the seed tray in a more ventilated space may help. A lack of light can also be the culprit so increasing the available light may help prevent mould. Using a soil or compost which does not have good drainage may also contribute to mould growth. A freer draining compost mix could be tried or even adding some perlite to the compost mix may well help. Lastly, it is really important to practise good hygiene and clean the trays and containers thoroughly after use and allow them to dry before stacking and putting them away until next time. The best course of action against mould is to try and prevent it in the first place, as if your microgreens do unfortunately get mould, then it is recommended not to consume them. References 1. Role of Microgreens and their Potential Health Benefits: A Review. (n.d.). JETIR. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.jetir.org/papers/JETIR2105366.pdf
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How To Grow A Windowsill Herb Garden With Malcolm Dickson (Herb Society Treasurer)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose The Right Spot 2) Select Your Herbs 3) Assemble Your Supplies 4) Plant Your Seeds 5) Cultivate Growth 6) Harvest Without Harming 7) Store For Future Use Spruce up your culinary dishes and your kitchen décor at the same time by growing a windowsill herb garden. There are many advantages to cultivating your own indoor herb garden. For starters, you’ll have access to a steady supply of fresh and delicious herbs, allowing you to embellish and accentuate the flavours of your home-cooked cuisine. What’s more, you’ll be able to do so without having to traipse back and forth from the supermarket, fork out continually for the pleasure or rely on tired and dried varieties that go stale in your kitchen cupboard. So without further ado, here’s a step-by-step guide on cultivating a thriving herb garden in your own home, without the need of any garden space whatsoever. Happy herbing! 1) Choose The Right Spot First things first – you’ll need to select a windowsill that receives enough sunlight. Ideally, this will be situated in your kitchen to afford you easy access to the herbs when you need them, but don’t be afraid to relocate to another room of the house if the sunlight levels are insufficient. You’ll need a spot that receives at least six hours of sunshine a day for your plants to really flourish, otherwise they’ll end up spindly, flavourless and entirely underwhelming. “The hardest part of growing herbs on a windowsill can be finding the right spot,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Often, east or west-facing windows can be best as they are sunny for much but not all of the day (rather then south in full sun or north in full shade). “The air quality in the room will also make a difference (is it humid or dry), as will the position of radiators, for example. Try a few locations and see how the plant responds. “If it stretches, there is not enough light, if it scorches there is too much. Search for the Goldilocks spot. “You will work out quite quickly which location works best and then you can ramp up production!” 2) Select Your Herbs Now comes the fun part – choosing the herbs you wish to grow! While most types of herbs will do just as well indoors as they will in an alfresco environment given the right care and attention, there are some that work better than others. Malcolm Dickson, Owner of the award-winning plant nursery Hooksgreen Herbs and the current Treasurer of The Herb Society, has a few particular favourites for a windowsill herb garden: “Herbs in a windowsill garden should provide colour as well as uses, so chives, common thyme, Lemon thyme and Oregano are ideal. “They do not grow too tall and can tolerate full light, making them a great choice.” Here are a few more suggestions: Basil A common ingredient in Mediterranean cuisine, basil is perfect for adding to pizzas, pastas, quiches and pies. It’s an annual herb that’s incredibly fast-growing, so once it has become established, you should be able to pick at will for one season before replacing it with a new plant. Chives This perennial herb will keep coming back year after year – harvest it at your leisure during spring, summer and autumn, but don’t worry when it dies away in winter. It’ll soon be back to add an oniony tinge to your salads and soups the following year. Coriander Widely used in Mediterranean and Asian cuisines, coriander is another annual plant that will serve you well for one season before requiring replacement. It’s also handy in that all parts of the plant can be consumed, though the leaves and the seeds are the most common ingredients in recipes. Mint As a plant which actually grows better in a pot than it does in ground soil, mint is the ideal herb to cultivate indoors. It’s a perennial plant, so it’s a gift that will keep on giving a lovely refreshing twist to cocktails, infused teas or certain exotic meals as well. Parsley This thirsty biennial will last you two years and require plenty of hydration over the course of its lifespan. There are two varieties of parsley available: curly-leafed and flat-leafed. The former is used mostly as a garnish, while the latter packs a stronger punch and is a common ingredient in Mediterranean cooking. Rosemary Another perennial, rosemary has woody stems and succulent leaves that are as versatile as they are vibrant. Combine it with other herbs as part of a bouquet-garni in stews and soups, or else use it as a stand-alone sprig to add flavour to roasted vegetables and cuts of meat. Its leaves even make a great addition to breads! Sage Sage is a hardy perennial which is resistant to drought and makes an excellent house guest. Its intense flavour is intrinsically linked with the idea of Christmas in many people’s minds, but that same intensity means that a single plant will stand you in good stead all year round. Thyme Thyme is another perennial which won’t require replanting in consecutive years – in fact, it’ll produce mounds of subtly scented foliage all year round! For best results, however, it’s advisable not to pick it in winter when its growth slows. See our post on the 15 best herbs to grow indoors for further growing inspiration! 3) Assemble Your Supplies Next, you’ll need to assemble all the equipment necessary to create the garden. Thankfully, this shouldn’t entail too much effort or financial outlay on your part; all you need are the following items: As many plant pots as herbs you wish to grow, in any style you like. That means they can be as fancy or as frill-free as the feeling takes you! Aim to use pots that have a diameter of at least 13cm (or double that for herbs which you plan to eat a lot of), as well as drainage holes in the bottom of them. Saucers or trays to go beneath the pots, to catch any excess water. Potting mix or general-purpose compost. Packets of seeds for the herbs you wish to grow, or else store-bought seedlings from your local supermarket. The former will require a little more patience and effort but should generally last longer, while the latter are often severely thirsty upon arrival but can be salvaged if given immediate TLC. Labels and a marker pen to remind you which is which! Until the herbs begin to bear leaves, it can be very tricky to distinguish your parsley from your sage, rosemary and thyme. 4) Plant Your Seeds Even distribution is the key. With everything now in place, it’s time to get planting! If you’re sowing your herbs from seed, you should fill your pots to around two-thirds of their capacity with the potting mix, then sprinkle the seeds on its surface. In order to distribute them as evenly as possible, it’s a good idea to empty out part of the packet into the palm of your hand, then pinch a few individual seeds between your fingers and place them accordingly. Then, simply cover over with a layer of soil and water abundantly. On the other hand, those who are seeking to transplant a store-bought herb plant to their windowsill should pour a small amount of potting mix into the pot to begin with. Then, making sure to be extra careful not to damage the plant, ease it out of its container and gently massage the roots to separate them from the clumped form they will likely have assumed. Place the herb into the new pot with the roots splayed out and fill in any gaps with potting mix, before watering thoroughly. 5) Cultivate Growth Water as required! As mentioned above, herbs are fast-growing little plants that don’t require too much in the way of maintenance, so you should expect to see results without too long a wait. Of course, store-bought plants can be harvested almost immediately (once they have begun to show signs of rejuvenation), but even seeds will display their first green shoots within a week or so. Wait at least a month before you begin harvesting though, to avoid stripping the plant of its vitality prematurely. Watering In terms of routine maintenance, herbs will only require watering once they have dried out. In general, the conditions inside your home are not likely to be as intense as those they would face outdoors, so as long as you prevent the soil from drying out altogether, you should be fine. That means watering them every few days (or perhaps more if your home is particularly warm, especially during the winter months when the heating is likely to be on more often). If in doubt, stick your fingers into the soil up to an inch or two and feel the moisture levels – if it’s completely dry, give your herbs a drink post haste. “Keep the container moist but not overwatered,” says Malcolm. “If they look dry, then water in the morning.” When watering, it’s also a good idea to keep going until the excess seeps out from the drainage holes into the trays or saucers beneath. This will help to prevent the accumulation of salt inside the soil (visible in the form of a white build-up on the top surface), which can inhibit the growth of your seedlings. Fertilising You may also wish to fertilise the herbs on a monthly basis, though this shouldn’t strictly be necessary to maintain their growth and those which are reared without artificial help will generally retain a stronger flavour. 6) Harvest Without Harming When it comes time to harvest your herbs, you’ll often find that the more regularly you trim them back, the more heartily they’ll grow. Having said that, you should never remove more than a third of their foliage at a time, since this will cause the plant undue stress and can stifle its growth or even kill it off completely. With that in mind, harvesting them little but often is the ideal strategy for maintaining their growth while still ensuring you access a steady supply of the good stuff. Where you pick your herbs from is just as important as how often or how intensively you do it, too. For varieties that grow in clumps like parsley, chives and coriander, you should concentrate on the larger leaves at the edge of the plant first, only working your way inwards once those have been picked. For other varieties that have several stems shooting off the main central column, like basil, mint and rosemary, trim a whole offshoot at once and strip it of leaves. Harvesting your herbs in this way will avoid overwhelming the plant and ensure it keeps providing you with what you need all through the calendar. 7) Store For Future Use If you find yourself in the enviable position of having more herbs than you know what to do with, it’s advisable to store them for use in the future. This makes more sense than simply allowing them to wither on the vine, since they’ll not only go to waste, but also prevent the plant from continuing its growth to its full potential. In this scenario, you should choose the greenest and freshest looking leaves of your herb and strip them off gently but firmly. Then, simply place them in an ice cube tray and fill with water (or oil, if you plan to make dishes that wouldn’t benefit from excess hydration) and freeze them overnight. Once the herby cubes have solidified, you can empty them out of the trays (thus freeing them up for other purposes) and store them inside Ziplock bags in the freezer. These frozen herbs can be substituted for their fresh counterparts in the same quantities as any recipe calls for, allowing you to take advantage of great-tasting herbs all year round. For more herb growing ideas, see this guide with ten unique ways to grow herbs at home!
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Cultivate Easy Access To Culinary Herbs With These 15 Choices For Indoor Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Starting An Indoor Herb Garden 1) Basil 2) Bay 3) Catnip 4) Chervil 5) Chives 6) Coriander 7) Dill 8) Lemon Balm 9) Lemon Grass 10) Mint 11) Oregano / Marjoram 12) Parsley 13) Rosemary 14) Sage 15) Thyme Growing herbs indoors is a great way to make sure you have easy access to culinary herbs in your kitchen. If you are a keen cook, then you will no doubt be well aware of what a big difference fresh herbs can make to your dishes. Buying the herbs you need can be expensive, but growing your own herbs at home is very affordable. It will help you eat better, at a fraction of the cost. Of course, many common culinary herbs can find a place in your garden – but if you don’t have one, you can still grow your own herbs at home. “There are a few differences between life indoors and outdoors for these plants, which means there are a couple of things to keep an eye on,” warns Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Firstly, signs of a lack of light will include whitening or yellowing of foliage, which may be smaller. “Growth may become lop-sided; in which case, turning the container every few days is important. The good news is that besides some of the woodier herbs on this list, such as rosemary and sage which may pose more of a challenge, many can be successfully cut hard back and moved to a brighter position.” Starting An Indoor Herb Garden Coriander, Rosemary, Thyme and Mint Even if you do have a garden, having a small herb garden in or close to your kitchen can mean that they are always close at hand when you need them. If you would like to grow your own herbs indoors at home, it is important to understand that not all herbs are suited to indoor growing. Some prefer brighter light and outdoors conditions. But the fifteen herbs on the list below can all be grown successfully indoors – as long as you provide the right conditions and care for them correctly. Read on to learn about some great culinary herbs you could grow indoors, and to get a few tips on how to keep them alive: 1) Basil BOTANICAL NAME: Ocimum basilicum IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED Basil is a little fussier than some of the other herbs on this list. It prefers more sunlight than an indoors location can often provide, so if possible, it is often best to grow it outdoors. But here in the UK, growing basil outdoors can sometimes be a bit hit and miss too – especially with unpredictable weather conditions over the summer months. And on a bright and sunny windowsill indoors, you can still get good results when growing this annual herb. Make sure you place basil in a spot that gets at least six hours of sunlight per day – a south-facing windowsill is ideal. Use a container with good drainage, and make sure the potting medium remains moist but not sodden. Feed with an organic liquid feed like seaweed feed or compost tea over the summer for optimal growth. 2) Bay BOTANICAL NAME: Laurus nobilis IDEAL POSITION: HOUSEPLANT SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: MOIST; DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING Bay is a bit of an outlier on this list. Unlike the other herbs mentioned, bay is actually a tree. While it will not work in a small container on a narrow windowsill, however, it is an interesting option to consider growing indoors. Potted bay can work very well as a decorative houseplant in your home, as well as providing leaves for culinary use. Place bay in a free-draining yet moisture retentive medium, in a free-draining container large enough to accommodate the root system of the plant with an inch or two space around each side. Bay will do well near, but not too close to, a south or west-facing window – keep temperatures between around 15-24°C for optimal growth. Mist the tree to maintain humidity levels, or keep it close to a humid area such as a sunny bathroom or a kitchen sink. Water regularly in summer to keep the soil moist, but not wet. But let the top inch of the growing medium dry out between waterings in winter. 3) Catnip BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta cataria IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: WELL-DRAINED Catnip, like basil, will grow better outdoors, but it can thrive indoors too as long as it gets at least six hours of sunlight each day. If you have a cat, your biggest challenge is likely to be keeping the plant free from the ‘attentions’ of your feline friend. Otherwise, sunlight can be the biggest issue. Place it on a sunny windowsill and it can thrive. It needs well-drained conditions, and should not be overwatered as this can cause root rot. Indoors, catnip will not grow as vigorously as it would outdoors, but it can still provide leaves for cat entertainment, or for culinary use. It is a perennial herb, so will live more than one year, but will need to be potted on to avoid issues over time. 4) Chervil BOTANICAL NAME: Anthriscus cerefolium IDEAL POSITION: ANY ROOM WITH INDIRECT SUNLIGHT SUNLIGHT: LIGHT SHADE SOIL: CONSISTENTLY MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED Chervil is an annual herb that can thrive when grown indoors. It can often, in fact, grow better inside than out, since it can have a tendency to bolt in hot and sunny conditions. It prefers light shade and cooler temperatures. Trimming regularly for use in the kitchen can keep container-grown plants healthy and bushy and reduce bolting. Again, the growing medium should be kept consistently moist, but should be relatively free-draining for best results. Chervil can work well in a container alongside other herbs in the ‘fine herbes’ mix, chives and parsley, which like similar conditions. 5) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: KEEP WELL-DRAINED; MIST REGULARLY Chives can thrive on a sunny, south-facing windowsill, and will do best when provided with between 6 and 8 hours of sunshine per day when grown indoors. They like rather humid conditions, and can do well when grown in a pot grouped with other potted herbs, or in a mixed container alongside some of the other herbs on this list. Misting can also help where humidity is low. Feed occasionally with a dilute compost tea or other weak organic feed. Chives can be great to add to a windowsill herb garden because their scent can deter some common pests to a degree. Harvesting these herbs young as microgreens is another option which can be easier indoors. 6) Coriander BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum IDEAL POSITION: ANY WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT / PART SHADE SOIL: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERINGS Coriander can have a tendency to become leggy and spindly when grown without enough light. But place it on a sunny windowsill with at least 4-5 hours of sun per day and it should do fine indoors. Pinch the growing tips off for a bushier plant. It might not be as vigorous or productive as an outdoor grown specimen, but it should provide all the leaf coriander you need. Water coriander well, but allow the top of the growing medium to become dry to the touch between waterings. Make sure the container you choose allows free drainage. Feed with a balanced organic liquid feed weekly or fortnightly during the main growing season. 7) Dill BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens IDEAL POSITION: ANY WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: DEEP; WELL-DRAINED Dill needs special consideration when you grow it indoors. It forms a taproot and will need to have a container at least 12 inches deep, and at least 6-8 inches in diameter. Remember it is a taller plant, and may do better indoors with some support. Like other herbs on this list, dill needs a location with at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Again, as with coriander, pinch off the tops to encourage bushier growth. If you do not have space to grow dill into larger potted plants, consider growing it for micro-greens, and harvesting these when they are just a couple of weeks old. 8) Lemon Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Melissa officinalis IDEAL POSITION: ANY WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT / PART SHADE SOIL: FERTILE; FREE-DRAINING Lemon balm smells and tastes great, and is another good choice for growing indoors. Lemon balm will require at least 5 hours of sunlight per day, a reasonably fertile medium, and a pot which allows for moderately free-draining conditions. The larger the container, the larger your plant will grow. Water regularly, but do not saturate the medium. Use an organic liquid feed every couple of weeks over the summer months. 9) Lemon Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Cymbopogon citratus IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED Lemon grass is not a plant that will typically thrive outside in most of the UK, but you can grow it on a sunny windowsill inside your home. If weather conditions allow, you could place lemon grass outdoors over the summer, but you can also grow it indoors year-round in a sunny spot. You can place stalks bought from the shops into small pots to allow them to take root in spring or summer. Water thoroughly and regularly, but allow for good drainage. 10) Mint BOTANICAL NAME: MENTHA IDEAL POSITION: ANY SUNLIGHT: ANY SOIL: EVENLY MOIST Mint is one of the very easiest herbs to grow, whether you grow it indoors or outside in your garden. Mint can do well even with a bit less light than other options on this list. An east-facing window, for example, can be ideal in spring/summer. As a perennial, mint is a plant you can continue to enjoy over a number of years. Try to keep the soil evenly moist, not dried out or overly moist. Mint likes humid conditions so if humidity is low, misting can help keep your plant healthy. 11) Oregano / Marjoram BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare IDEAL POSITION: ANY WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: AERATED & FREE-DRAINING The related perennial herbs oregano and marjoram will both also be excellent choices for an indoor herb garden. A bright windowsill with morning sun is often ideal for growing these Mediterranean herbs. Choose a container and growing medium which provide light, aerated, free-draining conditions. Water on a regular schedule, but not excessively, especially during the cooler months when damp and waterlogging can become a problem. 12) Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED Parsley is a biennial plant that also thrives in an indoor herb garden. Parsley will grow best on a south-facing windowsill with at least 6 hours of sun each day. In a kitchen, humidity will often be high enough already – but if you grow it in a different room, with lower humidity, misting may help keep your parsley happy. Keep the soil consistently moist, but avoid letting the plant sit with its roots in water, as soggy conditions may cause problems for your parsley plant. 13) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: MAXIMISE SUNLIGHT SOIL: DEEP; FREE-DRAINING Rosemary has a reputation for being a somewhat more challenging plant to grow indoors. But if you bear a few things in mind, it is actually a relatively easy and trouble-free herb to try. The first thing is to make sure you use a deep enough container, filled with a free-draining growing medium. Place this in as sunny a spot as possible. Rosemary prefers to take moisture from the air, rather than through its roots, and will not tolerate waterlogged conditions. Mist foliage around once a week to provide the right humidity, and place a container with pebbles in it, filled with water, beneath the plant. Water only when the medium dries out. 14) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERINGS Sage, like so many other herbs on this list, needs at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. When grown in the right location, it should thrive when grown indoors. Group sage with other herbs in pots to raise humidity levels, and mist when humidity is low. Water consistently, but let the top inch or so of the growing medium dry out before you water again. For this and other herbs that like good drainage, clay pots are ideal. 15) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: THYMUS VULGARIS IDEAL POSITION: SOUTH-OR-WEST FACING WINDOWSILL SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: FREE-DRAINING; CONSISTENT WATERING A south or west-facing windowsill will be ideal for growing thyme. It can also grow well alongside other Mediterranean herbs on this list which like free-draining growing conditions. There are a range of different thymes to choose from. Water consistently, when soil is dry, but take care not to overwater. If growth is poor, feed every couple of weeks over the summer with a light organic liquid feed.
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These Herbs Don't Need Loads Of Sun! 16 Choices That Grow Well In Shade
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Parsley 2) Coriander 3) Chives 4) Golden Oregano 5) Mint 6) Angelica 7) Miner’s Lettuce 8) Chervil 9) Lemon Balm 10) Bay 11) Tarragon 12) Hops 13) Sweet Cicely 14) Dill 15) Sorrel 16) Lovage Herb is the word Herbs are great. For some of us, they’re the gateway into gardening proper: an opportunity to grow a few plants that are fairly easy and have practical uses that make them feel worthwhile. For others, they’re an integral part of any home garden. Whatever your relationship with or experience of growing herbs, though, knowing which ones will grow well in the shade is a useful bit of knowledge to have on standby. Some plants prefer shade to sun. And you know what? That’s OK. Plants that prefer shade are ideal for those of us with limited space to grow things. If you’ve got a small garden surrounded by structures, for example – or if your only outdoor space is a balcony facing in a direction that doesn’t give it much sunlight. In these situations, choosing plants that do best in the shade is a way to satisfy your gardening urge without needing to relocate. So, with that in mind, here are sixteen herbs that will grow well in the shade: 1) Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: BIENNIAL GROWN AS AN ANNUAL Perhaps most famous in bygone decades as a classy garnish for pretty much any fish dish, parsley is enjoying something of a renaissance now. This humble green herb goes well in pesto, chimichurri, and various other exciting sauces and accompaniments. Parsley will grow well in the shade and will do even better with a fortnightly dose of a balanced fertiliser. You can sow parsley from March through to June, plant out from May through to July, and harvest from June onwards. Sowing staggered batches will ensure a longer growing season, allowing you to enjoy more parsley fresh from the plant. 2) Coriander BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL If you’re one of the lucky people who don’t carry the gene that makes coriander taste like soap, then growing your own is practically obligatory. Whether you pop a sprig on top of a nice plate of curry, make a flavour-rich coriander sauce, or anything else, this herb is of almost inexhaustible use in your kitchen. This herb will do well in the shade, and likes damp soil (too dry, and the plant may bolt). You can sow coriander from June through September, and harvest from July onwards. Again, staggered sowing will give you a staggered crop. 3) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL These long thin herbs have a fantastic flavour, making them a fine addition to an array of recipes. Wherever you want a flavour reminiscent of onion but without quite as much punch, a sprinkling of chives will do the trick. And what’s more, their flowers are highly appealing to bees, bringing a little extra wildlife to your garden. Chives grow well in containers and in the ground, and will be quite happy without much direct sunlight. Sow in March or April, plant out the following month, then expect to harvest from July to September. And keep in mind that you can still eat chives if they’ve flowered! 4) Golden Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL There are several types of oregano, some of which sport yellow leaves that are prone to being scorched by the hot midday sun. This makes them particularly well suited to being grown in the shade. Oregano has got to be one of our favourite herbs, if only for the distinctive flavour and the incomparable contributions it makes to Italian and Mediterranean cooking. If you like these flavours – sundried tomatoes, garlic, onion, olives, and so on – then a homegrown supply of oregano will revolutionise your kitchen. Sow oregano between February and March, staggering batches if you want to extend the harvesting season (May through October). Plant out your sown seeds between April and July. This herb likes regular watering, but be careful not to let the soil stay too damp, as this will damage the roots. 5) Mint BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha HARDINESS RATING: H5-H7 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL Whether you’re growing mint for the sole purposes of more authentic mojitos, or you have less luxurious plans for the herb, we recommend having a supply on standby. The gentle flavour provided by a mint plant is so much better fresh, and you’ll be surprised at how many uses it has. An accompaniment for meats, for example, whether as a garnish or sauce. Or an exotic variation on tea (mint, sugar, hot water, and you’re good to go). If you’re growing mint in the ground, the received wisdom is to bury it in pots rather than plant directly. This keeps the adventurous root system in check, reducing the risk of the plant monopolising all available space. Plant your mint in March through May, and harvest from May through October. 6) Angelica Such dainty bushels you’ve got BOTANICAL NAME: Angelica archangelica HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL Here we move onto the herbs which, for most of us at least, may be a little less familiar. It’s unlikely you’ll find angelica amongst the living herb plants in your local supermarket, for example. For us, this is the benchmark of whether or not a herb has made it into the mainstream. Angelica is worth getting acquainted with, though. Beneath this plant’s striking bushels are stems that can be candied, stewed, and more. Angelica is famously useful in baking, too, and its seeds can be put to great use in delivering its distinctive flavour. Sow this herb in autumn or late spring, directly into the soil. Then harvest in the spring or as and when required. 7) Miner’s Lettuce BOTANICAL NAME: Claytonia perfoliata HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL Here we have another herb still waiting on the C-List while its friends climb the ladder and mingle with the A-Listers. But lack of fame doesn’t mean this herb doesn’t have something to offer. In fact, in bygone days the leaves and stems of this plant provided a reliable source of salad greens for miners. If you want to get to know this herb, a shady spot will make a fine home for it. Sow from early spring, using staggered sowings to extend the harvest season. Then pick what you need in the summer and autumn months. Sometimes it is grown in greenhouses to enable harvesting even in winter! 8) Chervil BOTANICAL NAME: Anthriscus cerefolium HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL / BIENNIAL 9) Lemon Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Melissa officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 10) Bay BOTANICAL NAME: Laurus nobilis HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 11) Tarragon BOTANICAL NAME: Artemisia dracunculus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 12) Hops BOTANICAL NAME: Humulus lupulus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 13) Sweet Cicely BOTANICAL NAME: Myrrhis odorata HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 14) Dill BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL / BIENNIAL 15) Sorrel BOTANICAL NAME: Rumex acetosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL 16) Lovage BOTANICAL NAME: Levisticum officinale HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL Herb is the word There you have it: sixteen herbs that will grow nicely in a shady spot, putting to bed the idea that you can only have a viable herb garden if you’re blessed with a bright, sunny garden or outside space. We firmly believe that gardening should be accessible to and enjoyable for everyone, regardless of the space they’ve got to work with. While some of the most popular herbs require sun, we think the selection above is indicative of the variety available to you if you’re growing in the shade. “Shade can alter plant growth, sometimes for the better, as you may find you have to spend less time keeping up with the watering,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Some herbs will also produce larger leaves to maximise light uptake. “However, the growth may also be softer in the shade, so regular pruning and harvesting are often beneficial. That also sounds like a win! “Remember, though, that very soft growth can be a boon for pests and diseases. “Luckily, these herbs are better at coping with some level of shade, so any problems are most likely found in the deep year-round shade.” We hope you find something suitably exciting and delicious, and that you enjoy the process of researching, growing and harvesting.
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Practical And Beautiful - Here's 16 Herbs With Purple Flowers In Summertime
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Lavender 2) Rosemary 3) Catnip 4) Chives 5) Sage 6) Anise Hyssop 7) Oregano 8) Thyme 9) Purple Coneflower 10) Blue False Indigo 11) Sweet Basil 12) Spearmint 13) Foxley 14) Bergamot 15) Pennyroyal 16) Coriander References “A garden of purple is always in bloom!” This adage, common among gardeners, points to the wide range of plants that have purple flowers. If you incorporate a selection of these into your garden, it’s likely that their combined flowering season will extend across quite a large swathe of the year. “You’ll also enjoy the sight and sound of plentiful pollinators through the growing season,” says RHS-Qualified Horticulturist Colin Skelly, “because purple-blue is bees’ favourite colour and purple-blue flowers tend to have high levels of nectar”.1 Adding herbs to your garden brings so much to the space. Not only do you give yourself a ready supply of tasty herbs to liven up your cooking, but you tap into a whole new seam of flowering potential. Here are sixteen contenders, all of which will look stunning in your garden regardless of the requirement for kitchen condiments. 1) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: LAVANDULA HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Sheltered; Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Probably the first purple herb that comes to mind is lavender. This distinct and varied family of herbs all feature long stalks tipped with purple (or sometimes white or pink) sprigs. Rub your fingers on a sprig and you’ll get a waft of their famous scent: one you can find in all manner of essential oils, toiletries, and even recipes. Lavender grows naturally in expansive bushes, often replete with bees going about their pollen-related business. Bushes naturally exude the captivating scent, making them a lovely addition to any outdoor space. Lavender also grows well in containers: great if you want to prevent it from getting too unruly. 2) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SPRING / SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Full Sun; Most Soils This is a good example of a herb that most of us never really see in bloom. If you pick up a packet of rosemary from the shelf at your local supermarket, it’ll just be a few sprigs of dark green leaves. Catch it in the right season growing in the wild, though, and you’ll find a dazzling array of purple flowers vying for your attention. 3) Catnip BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta cataria HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER / AUTUMN IDEAL CONDITIONS: Exposed Or Sheltered; Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil If you have a cat (or if you are one, although this seems unlikely), then you should definitely try growing catnip if you have the space. This member of the mint family has the fascinating effect of being completely irresistible to cats. Some take a sniff and collapse into a puddle of cuteness and fluff, while others enter into a psychedelic new headspace for a little while, writhing about the place with dilated pupils.2 However your cat responds to this plant, it’s a nice experience to share together. And what’s more, the gentle purple flowers will look fantastic in your garden, whether alone or nestled up against other purple herbs. 4) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any The first time I saw purple flowers on chives was by accident. I left my chive plant unattended for a while, and then came back to little pink-purple orbs balanced delicately on the top of each strand. The flowers are not only visually intriguing, but they’re also edible. Pick one off and plop it onto a salad or any other dish where a garnish tasting faintly of onions will contribute, and you’re good to go. 5) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Sheltered; Full Sun Or Part Shade; Moist, Well-Drained Soil No dish of lamb is complete without a sprig of sage, and in fact this herb lends itself so well to a selection of hearty, warming winter foods that we almost insist that any gardener with space should grow it. Each summer your sage will erupt into a lively purple bloom, and it’s a real treat to behold. 6) Anise Hyssop BOTANICAL NAME: Agastache foeniculum (Pursh) Kuntze HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER / AUTUMN IDEAL CONDITIONS: Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil With this herb, we’re entering the realm of herbs that most people may not be overly familiar with. And that’s alright! It’s a good opportunity to learn what’s available in addition to the regular contenders we see in the supermarket herb section. Anise hyssop looks a little like lavender to the untrained eye. It boasts purple sprigs atop long stalks and grows in dense bushes. The scent and flavour are subtly different though: expect something a little like liquorice (hence the name), and ideal for using as garnishes or working through recipes. 7) Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER / AUTUMN IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any This herb packs a very strong flavour punch, and is a common feature in Italian cooking. Often you’ll find dried oregano in herb mixes on the table in pizza restaurants, but the fresh leaf also makes a great addition to cooking. Oregano also boasts purple flowers, as you may have expected when you found it in this list. Pinky-purple petals erupt forth from darker purple, almost red bases, giving this herb a real stunning colour profile. 8) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil We’ve written elsewhere on this site about the vast number of pun opportunities presented by thyme. On the off chance that you’ve read one of those articles, we’ll spare you the onslaught of dad jokes here, and will suffice to say that thyme is another herb commonly found in supermarket which, in the wild, sports attractive purple flowers. If you’re trying to identify a herb with purple flowers, or you’re looking for purple-flowered herbs to grow in your very own herb garden, we definitely recommend taking the thyme to familiarise yourself with this one. 9) Purple Coneflower BOTANICAL NAME: Echinacea purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER / AUTUMN IDEAL CONDITIONS: Well-Drained Soil; Full Sun Echinacea has a long and proud history in traditional cultures. It also has purple flowers, too, making it a suitable entrant for this list. While some of the other herbs here have small and dainty flowers, echinacea’s bloom is big and bold. The centre of the flower is surrounded by big oval-shaped pedals that flirt with pink and purple in equal measure. 10) Blue False Indigo BOTANICAL NAME: Baptisia australis HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Exposed; Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 11) Sweet Basil BOTANICAL NAME: Ocimum basilicum HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Sheltered; Full Sun; Well-Drained Soil 12) Spearmint BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha spicata HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: PART SHADE; POORLY DRAINED SOIL 13) Foxley BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus pulegioides ‘Foxley’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SPRING / SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Full Sun; Most Soils 14) Bergamot BOTANICAL NAME: Monarda citriodora HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any Sunlight Or Exposure; Moist, Well-Draining Soil 15) Pennyroyal BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha pulegium HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any Sunlight Or Exposure; Moist, Poorly Drained Soil 16) Coriander BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): SUMMER IDEAL CONDITIONS: Any When growing herbs take care to familiarise yourself with the growing requirements of each. While an untended (or even forgotten) herb box will hold its own for a little while, they’ll definitely do a lot better with the TLC that any plant deserves. References 1. How Bees See And Why It Matters. (2016, May 20). The Magazine of American Beekeeping. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.beeculture.com/bees-see-matters/ 2. Crazy for catnip. (n.d.). The Humane Society of the United States. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/crazy-catnip
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These 20 Perennial (Cold Hardy) Herbs Should Be A Cornerstone Of Any Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Bay 2) Bergamot 3) Catnip 4) Chives 5) French Tarragon 6) Hyssop 7) Lavender 8) Lemon Balm 9) Lovage 10) Oregano 11) Mints 12) Parsley 13) Roman Chamomile 14) Rosemary 15) Salad Burnet 16) Sage 17) Sorrel 18) Sweet Cicely 19) Thyme 20. Winter Savory References There is a huge range of perennial herbs that can be very useful additions to your garden. ‘Perennial herbs’ is a term that can be used to apply to any herbaceous plants (in other words: plants that do not have woody stems above the ground). However, in this article we consider herbs in the sense of plants that have culinary uses, often with aromatic properties. All will be very useful while in growth, and will also be useful in your kitchen: 1) Bay BOTANICAL NAME: LAURUS NOBILIS HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Bay laurel is a slow-growing evergreen shrub or small tree, H4 hardy in the UK. It can grow in full sun or light/dappled shade. A key ingredient in a French ‘bouquet garni’, bay leaves are used as a flavouring for soups, stews and other recipes. It will thrive in most soils which are fertile, and relatively moisture-retentive yet free draining. 2) Bergamot BOTANICAL NAME: MONARDA DIDYMA HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS This perennial herb (also known as Monarda didyma, bee balm or Oswego tea) is native to North America. However, it is also a useful and decorative herb to consider growing in UK gardens. It is H5 hardy in the UK and is not frost tender. Notable for attracting pollinators and other beneficial insects, bergamot is also used for culinary purposes. Leaves and the tips of the shoots are used in salads or drinks and it is famously used to impart an ‘Earl Grey’ flavour to China tea. 3) Catnip BOTANICAL NAME: NEPETA CATARIA HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Another excellent attractive perennial herb is Nepeta cataria. Catnip is of course best known for its intoxicating effect on felines, but the leaves can also be used as an aromatic flavouring in salads.1 They have a mint-like flavour. Catnip can also be used to make herbal tea. This hardy perennial is also great for visual appeal, wildlife attraction, and companion planting for pest control. Catnip is fully hardy in the UK. 4) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: ALLIUM SCHOENOPRASUM HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Chives are a well known culinary herb in the onion (allium) family. They are excellent companion plants for a range of other crops, helping to repel, confuse or distract a range of pest species. When in flower, chives also look pretty and attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to your garden. Chives can be chopped into a salad, or used as a pot herb, to impart a mild onion flavour. Chives can grow in sun or light shade, in a rich, moist but free-draining soil. Chives are hardy to H6 in the UK. 5) French Tarragon BOTANICAL NAME: Artemisia dracunculus ‘French’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: AUTUMN MONTHS French tarragon, said to be superior in taste to Russian tarragon, is another well known culinary herb, and another perennial that can return each year in areas of the UK H4 and above.2 The leaves and shoots impart an anise flavour. French tarragon is usually grown in full sun but is H4 hardy and suited to growing in Britain. 6) Hyssop BOTANICAL NAME: Hyssopus officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS This evergreen shrub is another great wildlife-friendly perennial to consider. Hyssop used to be a more common culinary herb than it is today, but it is well worth adding to your garden.3 Leaves and young shoot tips are used as a pot herb, imparting a flavour that combines mint and sage. “One of my favourite herbs, Hyssop is worth growing as an ornamental plant in its own right, but is also a fantastic plant for pollinators,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Easy to grow, it is an underused herb compared to other Mediterranean herbs.” Hyssop attracts a range of wildlife and can be useful as a companion plant in your garden. 7) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Lavender is a well known ornamental shrub, prized for its beauty and fragrance. But what you might not realise is that leaves, petals and flowering tips can be used as a pot herb in moderation. The flavour is strong and so lavender is usually only used in small quantities, but it could be an interesting addition to your culinary repertoire. Fresh or dried flowers are sometimes also used to make herbal tea. 8) Lemon Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Melissa officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Hardy to UK H7 and not frost tender, Melissa officinalis, lemon balm, is another of the great perennial herbs to grow in the UK. Bees and other insects love it, and it is notable for its delicious lemon flavour. It is also good for organic pest control and is said to be a useful dynamic accumulator plant.4 9) Lovage BOTANICAL NAME: Levisticum officinale HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A perennial alternative to celery, lovage is a herb with a long history of culinary uses. This is another hardy herb that will return each year in UK H6 and above. It is often used as a pot herb to impart a celery-like or yeasty flavour. Young stems can also be used like celery in salads or cooked recipes. 10) Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Origanum ssp. are also excellent perennial herbs that return each year. Both are notable culinary herbs, of course, and are also useful as wildlife attractants and companion plants. Sweet marjoram, O. majorana, and O. x majoricum (hardy marjoram) are H3 hardy. Oregano or ‘Pot marjoram’, O. vulgare, is H6 hardy. 11) Mints BOTANICAL NAME: MENTHA HARDINESS RATING: MOSTLY H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS There is a huge range of different mints that are great options to consider when choosing perennial herbs in the UK. Peppermints, spearmints, and many mints with different and unusual flavours can be considered. Mints can be very vigorous and can tend to take over garden spaces if left unchecked – but planting them in pots can prevent their spread. In some cases, you will want them to spread, as they provide excellent ground cover. Mints are, like many herbs on this list, great for wildlife and pest management in an organic garden. 12) Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Though parsley is technically a biennial rather than a perennial (completing its lifecycle over two years) it is worthwhile considering it within a perennial herb garden as it will often self-seed readily. So like the other perennials on this list, it can often remain in your garden year after year. 13) Roman Chamomile BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaemelum nobile HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Unlike German chamomile, Roman chamomile is a perennial herb. It is evergreen, in leaf all year and is hardy to H7 in the UK. Young sprigs are used as a flavouring in beers, and the flowers are used to make teas. 14) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SPRING / SUMMER MONTHS Rosemary is another well known culinary herb that will remain in your garden over a number of years. It is an evergreen shrub, with needle-like leaves which are used as a pot herb and in moderation in a range of different recipes. Rosemary is another great perennial to consider in a wildlife-friendly, sustainable garden. It is hardy to H4 and is not frost tender. 15) Salad Burnet BOTANICAL NAME: Sanguisorba minor HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Salad burnet, Sanguisorba, is an evergreen perennial that is H6 hardy. It has young shoots and leaves which can be eaten in salads, used as a garnish, or used in cooked recipes as a pot herb. Salad burnet can also be used in herbal teas. 16) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Sage (Salvia officinalis) is an evergreen shrub hardy to H5. This is of course a very common culinary herb, which can be used in a wide range of dishes. Other salvias can also be very useful perennial herbs to grow in your garden. 17) Sorrel BOTANICAL NAME: Rumex acetosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A number of sorrels, or Rumex ssp. are also very useful perennial herbs of perennial vegetables. Sorrels have a lovely lemony flavour, and can be used in mixed salads, to make soups, or to impart flavour to a range of recipes. Sorrel is H7 hardy in the United Kingdom, and leaves can often be harvested in small quantities throughout the year. 18) Sweet Cicely BOTANICAL NAME: Myrrhis odorata HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Another great perennial herb, Sweet cicely or anise is an aniseed-scented plant whose leaves are often used as a herb in salads or cooked recipes. There are also culinary uses for the seeds and roots of the plant. Sweet cicely is related to fennel, which is also a useful perennial herb to grow for an aniseed-like flavour. 19) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A number of thymes, including Thymus vulgaris (common thyme), are also very useful perennial herbs to grow in your garden. This shrub is notable as a companion crop for a range of common edibles, and is another great herb for attracting wildlife in your garden. It is H5 hardy and the leaves can be used fresh or dried. Cultivated hybrids such as lemon thyme, for example, are also well worth considering. 20. Winter Savory BOTANICAL NAME: Satureja montana HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Last but not least, winter savory is another of the great perennial herbs to consider. This is an attractive plant, evergreen and hardy to H5 in the UK. The leaves have a hot and peppery flavour, and are often used with beans, or as a garnish for salads. The growing plant also attracts a range of beneficial insects, and is said to repel a range of pests. References 1. Fries, W. (2021, May 8). Truth About Catnip. WebMD. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pets.webmd.com/cats/catnip-effects-on-cats#1 2. Mueller, C. (2009, January). The Three Tarragons: French, Russian and Mexican. Texas AgriLife Extension Service,. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/newsletters/hortupdate/2009/jan09/Tarragon.html 3. MasterClass. (2021b, August 26). How to Use Culinary Hyssop: 8 Ways to Cook With Hyssop. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-to-use-culinary-hyssop 4. Melissa officinalis. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=Melissa+officinalis
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