Growing
Grow Herbs In Any Space With These 50+ Ideas From Jonathan Sweet
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Windowsill Selection 2) Self-Watering Gardens 3) Recycled Planters 4) Al Fresco Upcycling 5) Wall-Mounted Herbs 6) Potted Herb Garden 7) Mobile Herb Garden 8) Companion Planting 9) Herb Spirals 10) Hydroponic Herbs References Keep your kitchen cupboards stocked and your culinary creations spiced with these ingenious herb garden ideas. There’s nothing quite like a bunch of freshly chopped herbs to bring a dish to life. Thankfully, growing your own herbs at home is a straightforward enough endeavour for even the most inexperienced of horticulturalists. They’re resilient, require little in the way of maintenance and take up next to no room, meaning that a small (or non-existent!) garden shouldn’t be an impediment to you crafting your very own herb garden with everything you need to concoct wonderful culinary creations in the kitchen. Below is a rundown of ten of the best herb garden ideas to suit all environments and levels of competence. Not so confident in your green-fingered abilities? Choose a self-watering option. Don’t have a whole lot of room to play with? Consider a wall-mounted or window-hanging alternative. Committed to sustainability and doing your bit for the environment? An upcycled garden is the way to go. Whatever your needs and your preferences, there’s an option to suit – 1) Windowsill Selection A windowsill is a perfect location for a herb garden. It’s the ideal compromise between being out of the way but also within easy reach when it’s needed, plus the plants will be ideally positioned to absorb as much of the sun’s rays as possible. Since space is still likely to be an issue in a ledge as narrow as the one bordering a window, it’s a good idea to pick three or four of your most used herbs and plant them here. Those with reduced space could benefit from a hanging planter that fits right into the nook of the window. Not only will this free up space below them for placing kitchen tools and utensils, but it can also create an attractive design feature framed by the window backdrop. 2) Self-Watering Gardens For those with little experience in the garden – or with little time to devote to the activity – there are plenty of new-fangled options on the market which turn horticulture into a cakewalk. Some of the most innovative and convenient of these gizmos include self-watering or hydroponic herb gardens, which remove the need for you to remember to continually keep them hydrated. You can even make your own DIY self-watering planters with a little bit of ingenuity and creative thinking, although these generally aren’t quite so technologically advanced. The beauty of self-watering herb gardens – aside from the obvious convenience they offer – is the sheer range of options available to you. If you want to go the whole hog, you can plump for a sophisticated model which regulates not only irrigation, but light exposure, temperature and humidity, too. Easy self-watering systems are also available to buy – these come in many different styles and can be placed in any planter. The choice is yours. 3) Recycled Planters An upcycled herb garden can be a great way to help save the planet and create a quirky home feature, all in a single stroke. Both wine and soft drink bottles work well here, but the options are virtually endless. Mason jars are particularly effective for a modern aesthetic, while tin cans are great at accentuating an existing shabby chic décor. “Herbs such as thyme, which are happy in dry conditions, are a good choice for a low-maintenance herb hanging basket made from a recycled planter,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “A trailing rosemary may be just attractive as any typical bedding plant and the display would keep for another year.” You can even repurpose your finest china tea cups by planting herbs in them for an elegant display! Old egg cartons are the perfect size for growing new seedlings. No matter the medium you eventually choose to house your herbs, just remember to create holes in the bottom of the makeshift pot to allow for easy drainage. Otherwise, your herbs will soon become waterlogged and drown, which isn’t conducive to them lasting the test of thyme (sorry!). For climate-conscious gardeners there are also recyclable plant pots available to buy, which are made from recycled materials. These are fully compostable and the materials break down when you re-pot your plant. 4) Al Fresco Upcycling Your sustainability efforts don’t have to be confined to an indoor setting, either. Wooden pallets can be easily transformed into a fantastic impromptu herb garden by flipping them on their side, filling the apertures with soil and planting your favourite herbs in the slats. You might find that your local garden centre is willing to donate a spare one to you free of charge – especially if you’re a valuable customer of theirs – but even a nominal fee is a small price to pay for this ingenious home planting solution. Other ideas for upcycling furniture include turning old ladders, bedside tables or chest of drawers into new and unusual herb gardens, simply by making the most of rung and drawer space to cultivate your creations. Guttering is another excellent material that lends itself well to the purpose; simply chop a drainage chute into manageable sections, drill holes in the bottom and fill with soil. Given that they’re designed to be positioned off the ground anyway, they’re an ideal option for a hanging herb garden outside your back door. 5) Wall-Mounted Herbs If space really is at a premium in your garden, a vertical herb garden is the ideal way to ensure your kitchen never runs out of its essentials whilst still not encroaching on the limited dimensions available to you. You can use bespoke products like the one in the photograph above, while an adapted shoe organiser is the perfect shape and size for repurposing as a planter. The canvas material is strong enough to support the herbs and soil, but porous enough to allow excess water to drain away in times of heavy rainfall. Attaching plant pots to a free wall can make practical use of the space while beautifying it at the same time. Even individual plant pots welded to the wall with metal or iron brackets will function exceptionally well in giving you access to the herbs you need in the space you have to work with. On the other hand, you don’t have to go for a design quite as grand or as ambitious as either of these options. Units like the one pictured above can be filled with soil and allow for easy vertical herb growing. Pallets can also be used in a vertical fashion for growing – supporting the shady requirements of some plants and the full sun needs of others. Whatever type of structure you go for, just make sure it’s fixed securely to the supporting wall – otherwise, your herbs could come crashing down around you. 6) Potted Herb Garden If in doubt, it’s always an idea to keep things simple. The diminutive dimensions and the meagre maintenance requirements of almost all herbs mean that going down the old-fashioned potted route inevitably brings dividends for indoor or outdoor planting. With the herbs contained in individual pots, you can easily move them around to take advantage of plentiful sunshine in the summer months or bring them indoors when the mercury plummets and the heavens open. It should be remembered, of course, that different herbs have different requirements when growing them in pots, so it’s important to tailor your approach to the plant in question. A propagation station for herbs (like the one above) is always good for producing new plants from existing ones and growing your collection. Again, the versatility of potted herbs means that you should be able to accommodate those specifications with a little forward planning. 7) Mobile Herb Garden Speaking of portability, you could always take the idea to the next logical step by planting the herbs directly into a movable receptacle. An old wheelbarrow is perfect for this, since it’s already been designed to cart loads around the garden. Simply drill several drainage holes in the bottom of the barrow and fill it with compost, then arrange your favourite herbs as artfully as you like. Come rain or shine, you’ll be able to ferry your garden to a sheltered or exposed spot as the situation warrants. Other options for creating a mobile herb garden include tool trolleys, small wheelie bins or even an old bicycle, since the basket in front of the handlebars can serve as an excellent and offbeat window garden. Alternatively, you can quite easily fashion your own; all you need are a few pieces of wood, a set of castor wheels and the know-how to put them all together. With this kind of bespoke design, you can be as simple or as sophisticated as your abilities allow. 8) Companion Planting Spring onions and parsley are the best of bedfellows Another idea for how to arrange your herb garden for optimum impact is through companion planting. This is the practice of pairing herbs with one another (or with other plants in the garden) to deliver mutual benefits for both. Certain herbs give off unique aromas which common pests find unpleasant, thus deterring them from desecrating your crops. Others exude scents that attract pollinators or other friendly creepy-crawlies, while there are even a number of herbs that can enrich the soil. Perhaps best of all, some herbs will enhance the flavour of other herbs and crops in their vicinity. Garlic growing with lettuce Basil, chamomile and tarragon are some such options, while garlic gets on amiably with almost all other plants. Tomatoes with a row of basil Mint, chives and coriander are all adept at repelling aphids, while catnip and lavender bring bees and butterflies by the bucketload. Heirloom Tuscan kale with lemon balm, swiss chard and basil Just remember that certain herbs – such as fennel – are not quite so user friendly and will benefit from being cultivated alone, so read up on possible pairings before you plough ahead. 9) Herb Spirals If you don’t have a whole lot of room to work with, a spiral herb garden can be a great option for cultivating your culinary vegetation. The beauty of this arrangement lies not just in its space efficiency, but also in the freedom and flexibility it offers you to cater to the requirements of different plant types. For example, you can position those herbs which prefer full sunlight at the top of the spiral and stagger ones which thrive in partial shade further down the chain, thus satisfying all comers in the same design. The spiral featured above is a mid-sized variation on the theme, but you can play with the dimensions according to the space that’s available to you. Herb spirals are usually very simple structures to build, as you can see from the images below: For really tight spots, you can even dispense with the kind of rockery aesthetic replicated above and instead create a pyramid from different sized pots, planting different herbs in each level. This maximises the space, offers differing levels of shade and even allows for a trickle-down irrigation system, ticking a number of boxes with just one design. 10) Hydroponic Herbs Hydroponics is becoming an increasingly popular method of growing plants among both green-fingered novices and commercial businesses, chiefly due to the fact that it’s a great way to cultivate crops in a smaller space. It also dispenses with the use of soil entirely, meaning it requires one less resource, with all the nutrients dispersed among the water and a continuous airflow ensuring the root network remains oxygenated at all times.1 As with the self-watering avenue outlined above, there are all kinds of store-bought hydroponics kits with varying degrees of capacity and technological capability. There are deep-water systems, drip systems, ebb and flow systems and aeroponic systems, each with its own features and advantages. It’s also more than possible to create your own DIY solutions at home. And best of all, the herbs will grow faster than via a traditional growing medium, there’s no mess from the soil and you don’t have to worry about watering them on a constant basis!2 A weekly or even biweekly check on the nutrient levels in the solution is all that’s needed to keep your chives thriving and your fennel flourishing. References 1. Hydroponics: The power of water to grow food. (2019, October 4). Science in the News: Harvard University. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://sitn.hms.harvard.edu/flash/2019/hydroponics-the-power-of-water-to-grow-food/ 2. Nguyen, N., McInturf, S. A., & Mendoza-Cózatl, D. G. (2016). Hydroponics: A Versatile System to Study Nutrient Allocation and Plant Responses to Nutrient Availability and Exposure to Toxic Elements. Journal of Visualized Experiments, 113. https://doi.org/10.3791/54317
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Here Are 3 Growing Options For Mint - And Why You Have To Be Careful With It
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Mint (Three) Growing Options Common Problems References Mint seems to be a little bit like Marmite, in that people really like it, or despise it completely. Whilst we get that the distinct flavour doesn’t always work in the contexts it’s used in, don’t write mint off completely just yet. In fact, growing your own fresh mint at home will put you in control of how you employ minty flavours in your cooking and tea making. “I love growing mint, although you have to be careful with it,” shares Danny Clarke, TV Presenter & Horticulturist. “Mint smells lovely and is very tactile. “There are so many varieties of mint that will give you so many different scents – it might surprise you. They can smell like chocolate, coffee – all sorts!” In this guide we’ll equip you with the knowledge required to get a vibrant mint bush blooming in your garden. You’ll be able to grow it, care for it, resolve any common issues and, most importantly, harvest the tasty leaves to be deployed in your kitchen whenever you need. Overview Botanical Name Mentha Common Name(s) Mint Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia, North America Hardiness Rating H5-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or pinkish flowers When To Sow March, April, May, September, October, November Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September, October, November The word mint broadly refers to the plant family Lamiaceae, which contains pretty much every herb you can think of.1 Oregano, thyme, rosemary, sage, basil, marjoram, and even lavender are just a handful of the aromatic herbs you’ll find in the family tree, for example. Zooming in a little bit, though, through the subfamily Nepetoideae, the tribe Mentheae, down to the genus Mentha, we find the plants that most people are probably thinking of when they say ‘mint’.2 The Mentha genus contains mint plants like this one “I love growing herbs but mint is definitely my favourite,” shares Debi Holland, a Garden Writer. “I grow vast amounts of Moroccan mint in my garden. Actually, it runs wild with little intervention from me but I use it most days to make homemade tea! “My other favourite is chocolate mint which is absolutely sublime and I am on a mission to bulk up my plant to make lots of tea.” It’s not fully understood what distinguishes the different species in the family, but there are 24 different species in existence.3 What is known, however, is that spearmint and peppermint are probably the two most common types in the culinary context. Spearmint (Mentha spicata), which also goes by the names common mint, lamb mint, garden mint, and more – originally hails from Europe and southern Asia, but is now naturalised in many parts of the world.4 Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) is a hybrid between spearmint and another species called water mint (Mentha aquatica).5 Like spearmint, it has spread from its roots in Europe to central Asia to cover most of the world.6 These two types are most commonly used in food and drink, to make essential oils, as a source of menthol, and much more. How To Grow Mint Now you’ve seen just how versatile and widespread mint is, both geographically and culturally, you’re probably itching to get some growing in your garden. First up… (Three) Growing Options Transplanting The most common option by far when growing mint is to buy a young plant in a container and transplant it to your garden. This is quick, cheap, and easy, and gives you a good shot at a strong and healthy plant. Propagating Cuttings You can grow mint from cuttings, too. Simply trim 5-8cm from a mature plant and leave in a glass of water out of direct sunlight. After a week or so it’ll sprout roots, ready for transplanting into soil. Growing From Seed If you’re looking to grow from seed, this is possible as well – if maybe a little more fiddly. Mint seeds are tiny. We recommend sprinkling seeds thinly onto the soil surface, then covering with about half a centimetre more soil, as this is far less tricky than trying to individually plant tiny seeds. Then you’ll need to thin out the seedlings once they germinate, which should take about two weeks. When they grow big enough to have two true leaves, harden them off and prepare them for planting out. Where To Grow Mint When choosing a spot for your mint, keep in mind that this is a very ambitious plant. Left unsupervised it will spread far and wide via underground roots, quickly becoming unruly and threatening other nearby plants, as Danny explains: “I wouldn’t plant it straight in the ground because it can act like a weed and take over your space. “The best thing would be to put that in a pot.” As Danny says, many gardeners opt to grow mint in pots, keeping its enthusiastic roots carefully separate from nearby soil. If you’re especially keen on planting mint into the ground, you can use a common gardening hack to do so whilst still discouraging unruly growth. To do this, find a big bucket, cut the bottom out of it (or buy a bottomless bucket in the first place), bury it into the soil, and grow your mint inside. The wall of the bucket will keep roots in place, and if a couple of inches of the bucket are left above ground, this will keep intrepid surface shoots in check as well. You’ll also want to keep different types of mint apart from each other, as this proximity can lead all varieties involved to lose their distinctive scents and flavours. Keeping a decent amount of space between different mints will keep them vibrant and characteristic. Watering Mint is a thirsty plant and will require lots of watering. This is especially applicable in hot and dry weather. Fertilising Use fresh compost for each new mint plant to give it the best access to the nutrients required for healthy growth. “When these nutrients deplete after a few months, mint plants can be given a balanced fertiliser feed once a month to keep the fresh growth coming ready for harvesting,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. While it’s not technically fertilising, this tip does involve soil, and so fits well into this section. If your mint plant isn’t thriving, remove it from its container along with the soil, then separate the plant from the soil, split the root ball in two, and repot one half in the same container with new compost. The other half can be planted elsewhere, increasing next year’s mint quota. Cutting Back Each summer, some of the shoots on your mint plant will flower. To encourage the best growth next season, trim the flowered shoots down to a few centimetres above the surface of the soil. Common Problems Mint is massively widespread which suggests it must be fairly resilient and able to take care of itself, however there are a things to look for when growing your own: Aphids New growth in the spring can often attract aphids which distort the leaves and leave black deposits. Ladybirds will often take care of these pests but if it’s too early in the season for them, aphids can be wiped off the mint leaves. Fungal rust This fungal infection leaves yellow or orange blemishes on the stems and leaves of a plant, and can cause a lot of damage if left unchecked. As the fungus spreads through spores, the best course of action is to dig up and destroy severely infected plants. While it may seem drastic, this prevents the spores from infecting other plants, and it is a less destructive course of action in the long run. Also take a thorough look over young mint plants if bought from a shop. It’s unlikely but definitely possible to buy a plant that’s already infected, so try to avoid this. Mint beetle Not every plant regularly draws the attention of a beetle so often that it’s named after it! Mint beetles, small and green, definitely evoke their eponymous plant, however. Their tendency to feed on mint plants, and to let their larvae do the same, can lead to damage if left unchecked. Thankfully, the beetles are big enough to easily be seen with the naked eye. Simply remove any beetles or eggs as and when you notice them. The mint beetle is a relatively new pest to the UK and so far most sightings have been in Southern England. References 1. Lamiaceae (mint family). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/family/lamiaceae/ 2. Subfamily Nepetoideae. (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/520502-Nepetoideae 3. Mentha. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved July 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30016176-2 4. Spearmint – Mentha spicata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/spearmint 5. Heberling, M. (n.d.). Peppermint: A Hybrid Herb for the Holidays. Carnegie Museum of Natural History. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://carnegiemnh.org/peppermint-a-hybrid-herb-for-the-holidays/ 6. Mentha × piperita. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved July 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:450969-1#:~:text=The%20native%20range%20of%20this,The%20hybrid%20formula%20is%20M
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How To Grow Sorrel: Why This Versatile Herb Is Best Grown Close To The House
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Sorrel Sorrel Ongoing Care Common Problems References Sorrel may have been flying under your Herbs-and-Spices Radar but once you grow and use this very versatile herb, it will stay on your radar for a long time. This plant is not difficult to grow, it is quite easy to care for, and you can use it for soups, salads, and sauces, and even as a leafy vegetable. If you’re into multi-cultural cuisine and like to prepare dishes from all round the world, the herb you have to have is Sorrel, sometimes incorrectly called ‘Dock’. Unlike rosemary, thyme, and such, Sorrel is what you make of it – or, in fact, what various nations make of it. There’s one word that best describes this tangy-citrusy leaf: versatile. It can be a veggie, an appetiser, a soup, a salad, a sauce, and…well, a herb! Overview Botanical Name Rumex acetosa Common Name(s) Sorrel Plant Type Herb / Perennial Native Area Europe / Central America Hardiness Rating H3-H7 Foliage Some retain leaves all year Flowers Tall spikes reddish flowers When To Sow February, March, April, May, June, July, August Rumex of some species or another occurs in nature from Sub-Tropical to Tundra Zones. Rumex arcticus grows in the Arctic and is relied upon as a foodstuff by many people who live there.1 Rumex vesicarius is likewise used as a culinary ingredient except that it grows in the heat and dust of India.2 Many other Rumex species grow wild in forests, fields, meadows, roadsides, and poor and gravelly land virtually through the length and breadth of all continents. Sorrels, therefore, span the gamut of Hardiness Zones. Though most prefer full sun, a few varieties grow in partial shade or even full shade. Rumex acetosa is a perennial and is hardy in RHS Zones H3-H7 (USDA Zones 3 to 9) – making most varieties suitable for all areas of the UK. The majority of Rumex species are invasive to some or another degree and many, particularly R. acetosella or Sheep Sorrel, are considered weeds in North America. How To Grow Sorrel R. acetosa, R. scutatus, and R. sanguineus are available through many sellers, brick-and-mortar nurseries as well as online. Other species of sorrel may be harder to find at nurseries. However, many Sorrels can be propagated by root division. If you allow the flowers to wither and go to seed, you will automatically get new Sorrel plants. These plants spread rapidly and can be hard to control – to prevent them from spreading, cut off the flower stalks – a side benefit will be the renewed production of the useful part of the plant, the foliage. “I recommend growing sorrel near the house where you can easily harvest leaves and cut off any flowering stems that appear,” says Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. “Don’t underestimate one flower’s ability to propagate numerous plants; I would advise cutting off any flower stalks that appear and, if you wish to propagate new plants, the safest way is to divide.” Growing From Seed Prepare a bed with a good mix of soil that is organic but not rich. It should have good drainage and be in a sunny location, preferably full sun. Plant R. acetosa or Common Sorrel seeds in April, sowing them 15-20cm apart and about 1cm under the soil. Keep the soil moderately moist. After the plants germinate, water them in moderation twice a week though in an area with ample rainfall you may not need to water them for days on end. Sorrel Ongoing Care As the plants grow, you may need to thin them if they were planted too closely. Weed the bed as you would for any other plant. Overwintering As a perennial, Sorrel will become dormant in the winter but will re-emerge in spring. As a cold-hardy plant, Common Sorrel varieties do not need protection but it would be wise to lightly cover or mulch it with organic compost if you anticipate frost. Propagation Besides growing from seed, Common Sorrel may be propagated by dividing the roots. Other Sorrels may be grown in the same way with minor variations; after all, Sorrels are easy-grow and no-care plants. As for plant care, if there is one thing that Sorrel doesn’t need and doesn’t even want, it is TLC treatment. Indeed, it can be said that Sorrels flourish on neglect. Common Problems Sorrels, growing as they do wild in nature all around the world, are tough and robust plants and in general are worry-free. The only problem you need to keep an eye open for are slugs and snails, which are not too difficult to repel or eliminate. Infrequently Sorrels get attacked by aphids or leaf miners. Sorrels are disease-resistant plants. References 1. Rumex arcticus Arctic. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Rumex+arcticus 2. Rumex vesicarius. (n.d.). India Biodiversity Portal. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://indiabiodiversity.org/species/show/266390
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The Smart Way To Grow Coriander For A Regular Supply Of Leaves Through The Year
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Coriander? How To Grow Coriander Ongoing Coriander Care Common Problems Thanks to its distinctive flavour and incredible versatility, coriander herb has made its way into cuisines around the world. Not only will you find it alongside other spices in all manner of curries, but in dishes as varied as chilli, scallops, salads, pasta, and more. Whether as a garnish or an integral ingredient, coriander contributes an enormous amount to any dish it’s used in. Overview Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum Common Name(s) Coriander, Cilantro Plant Type Herb Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or purplish flowers When To Sow June, July, August, September Harvesting Months July, August, September, October, November, December Coriander is a fragrant herb hailing from many areas of Southern Europe and Western Asia. Coriander vs Cilantro – What’s The Difference? Like many things, Americans have muddied the water around coriander a little. Across the Atlantic, they refer to the leaves and stalks of the coriander plant as ‘cilantro’ – they still call the seeds ‘coriander’, however. In an interconnected world, this can sometimes lead to confusion. Many curry recipes online, for example, call for cilantro – to the untrained chef, this instruction can lead to hours spent in the supermarket, trawling up and down the herb section to little avail. Why Grow Coriander? The main reason to grow coriander is for the fantastic flavour, and to save a whole bunch of money compared to buying a fresh sprig of the herb every time you need to use it. If you want to grow coriander but don’t want to cheat by using one of the pre-potted plants you can buy in supermarkets, then read on. How To Grow Coriander Growing coriander is simple – all you need to do is find a spot in your garden that gets full sun or partial shade, prepare the soil for planting, and sprinkle a thin layer of seeds. Once planted, your coriander seeds will germinate after 1-3 weeks. Then it’s just a case of waiting for them to grow! To ensure a regular supply of leaves throughout the year, plant staggered batches. You can sow coriander from June through to September, and you can protect plants growing in cooler months by covering them with polythene or another transparent, insulating surface. Coriander also lends itself perfectly to growing in window boxes or planters, so if you’re working with a balcony, or even a windowsill, rather than a garden, you’re still in luck. Ongoing Coriander Care Watering With coriander, your goal is to keep things moist. Too wet, and the plant will struggle to grow – too dry, and it risks flowering early. If this happens, the harvest will be less impressive. So, water sparingly, and stay vigilant to ensure that the soil never fully dries out. Fertilising Coriander will do just fine without being fertilised, but a little plant-balanced food won’t go amiss if it’s looking a little worse for wear, especially if it’s growing in a pot. Read the instructions of your chosen feed to ensure you don’t apply too much. Harvesting For most of us, this is the only reason we grow coriander – to ensure a steady supply of the herb, ready to be used at a moment’s notice in all manner of delicious culinary exploits. Picking coriander is easy. Just wait until the plant is ripe, then snip or pick the desired stems. “The versatility of coriander is seen in the harvesting options – regularly harvesting small quantities of leaves and taking no more than a third in one go, gives a continual harvest,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Also, the flowers can be eaten or the edible seeds can be left to form.” Take them indoors and allow to dry on a piece of kitchen roll, then store in an airtight box until you need them. You can freeze coriander, too, meaning it’ll last almost indefinitely. Note that we wouldn’t recommend using frozen and defrosted coriander in recipes that call for it to be used fresh! It’ll end up very soggy. Common Problems Coriander is prone to a few issues, although nothing so severe that you shouldn’t be able to take care of it. Here are some problems to look out for when growing coriander at home: Slugs & Snails These prolific nuisances see it as their birthright to crawl all over your precious plants, leaving a trail of slime and munched leaves in their wake. With flowers and other decorative plants, the munch-holes are dispiriting to see. But with edible crops like coriander, they bring that extra level of revulsion. Not many people will willingly eat a leaf that’s already been eaten by a slug or snail..! The best trick to keep these pests away from your coriander is to grow it indoors. If that’s not an option, you can use various techniques and substances to discourage slug and snail visitations. Bolting When a plant bolts, it flowers earlier than intended. Bolting is typically encouraged by difficult growing conditions, causing the plant to perceive the need to propagate itself and increase its chance of survival in challenging situations. While this sounds like good survival instinct, it’s not good for the flavour of coriander – in fact, after a plant has bolted, you shouldn’t eat it. Even cutting the flowers off will not stop leaves becoming bitter. To avoid bolting coriander, heed our advice from earlier on and ensure the soil doesn’t end up too dry! It’s about maintaining that sweet spot between too dry and too wet. Also, be vigilant and harvest your coriander when it’s ready. Waiting too long will increase the chances of the plant flowering. We love coriander. It’s tasty, versatile, cheap, and easy to grow – what a fantastic combination! Also, once you’ve got into the swing of staggering your coriander harvests, you’ll have a near-endless supply of the herb to work with.
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No Herb Garden Would Be Complete Without Thyme: Prime For Pollinators (And The Kitchen)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Thyme? Thyme Varieties How To Grow Thyme Thyme Plant Care References Herb gardens have become increasingly popular over the last few years and no herb garden would be complete without thyme. With its heavenly, aromatic aroma and attractive foliage, this herb adds an impactful flavour to all kinds of dishes and provides interest, structure and texture to your garden all year round. Thyme also produces tiny tubular flowers which come in shades of pink, purple and white. These flowers are a magnet to wildlife and are particularly loved by bees and butterflies and other essential pollinators. “I grow Thyme for use in the kitchen but I would grow it just a plant for pollinators,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “When in flower, the plants are smothered in pollinators and are easy to grow and care for herbs, so are ideal if you only have space for pots or a balcony.” The best news is that thyme is exceptionally easy to grow and because it can be grown both in garden beds or in containers, it is a wonderful addition to any garden, no matter the size. Overview Botanical Name Thymus Common Name(s) Thyme Plant Type Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Aromatic grey-green leaves Flowers Small white or pink flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July Thyme is one of the most commonly used herbs in the world. It is a low-growing, woody perennial which thrives in warm, dry conditions. It can be planted at almost any time of year and is ready for harvest after only a few months. It will then grow back year after year, making it one rewarding little plant. Why Grow Thyme? Thyme has so many benefits – let’s dive a little deeper into why it’s one of the most popular plants and why you shouldn’t miss out: Low Maintenance – Not only is thyme easy to grow, but it’s also super easy to care for. Harvesting it regularly keeps it naturally pruned and, at most, you can just cut the woody stem back by half in autumn. Tastes Terrific – As mentioned, thyme is one of the most popular herbs for culinary use and is a vital ingredient for Herbes de Provence. It can be used in dishes containing, fish, chicken and vegetables and is a delicious addition to soup and stews. Pollinator Friendly – It’s not just bees and butterflies that adore thyme; this flowering herb is also extremely attractive to lacewings looking for a safe habitat to lay their eggs. Lacewing larvae are formidable predators to aphids, whiteflies, cabbage white caterpillars and many other harmful critters. Pest Repellent – The punchy fragrance of Thyme can help to confuse pests looking for their favourite plants to devour and destroy. Planting thyme around the perimeter of herb gardens or below fruit trees can keep more vulnerable plants safe.1 Thyme Varieties There are hundreds of species of thyme, all with their own unique flavour and fragrance. I have picked out some of my personal favourites to help you get started: Common Thyme Botanical Name: Thymus vulgaris Unsurprisingly, this is the most commonly used species of thyme in cooking. It has a powerful, robust flavour and is a popular ingredient in Mediterranean dishes. This aromatic, hardy perennial grows to around 0.5m in height and the same in spread, and provides excellent, evergreen ground cover. It also produces pretty, delicate white and lilac flowers in the summer months. This variety of thyme grows best in moist, well-drained neutral and alkaline soils and prefers full sun. Common thyme is extremely low maintenance and just needs to be cut back in spring. Lemon Thyme Botanical Name: T. citriodorus Lemon thyme grows in an erect, upright form and has gorgeous foliage with a distinct lemony scent. This is a low-growing plant that forms excellent ground cover and will also thrive in rock gardens and containers. Because of its spreading habit, this variety of thyme can require a little more care and may need to be cut back to keep it under control. Lemon thyme will tolerate most soils, thrives when pruned and can even be trimmed into miniature hedges. Creeping Thyme Botanical Name: T. serpyllum Commonly known as ‘Mother-of-thyme’, this mat-forming variety grows only to about 8cm in height, sprawls quickly and randomly and is perfect for filling empty spaces. Creeping thyme has a more minty aroma and is not only deer-resistant, but also kid resistant! It is small but mighty and can handle being trampled in the garden. Creeping thyme produces dense sprays of pink, purple or white flowers which are irresistible to honey bees and will perform best in well-drained soil in full sun or light shade. Woolly Thyme Botanical Name: T. pseudolanuginosus This gorgeous, hardy perennial produces a wonderfully soft carpet of woolly grey foliage and pale mauve flowers which appear in summer. Woolly thyme spreads quite slowly, but its dense, mat-forming habit makes it ideal for rock gardens and patios. This variety of thyme does not have a noticeable scent and is not suitable for cooking; however, it’s extremely attractive and can be a great alternative to a lawn and will also spill gracefully over stone walls. Woolly thyme will thrive in a sunny, dry, well-drained spot and will grow no more than a few inches in height and has a spread of around 30cm. How To Grow Thyme Now that you’ve realised that your garden will be incomplete until you plant thyme, it’s time to get down to it. Most varieties require well-drained soil and full sun to light shade. Many types work well in rock gardens, cracks in pavings, herb gardens whilst others prefer pots and containers and can be grown inside or outside. While it is possible to grow thyme from seed, it can be really difficult to get the plant to establish itself. For this reason, we’d generally recommend buying young thyme plants from garden centres or supermarkets. You’ll want to plant the young thyme in free-draining soil or compost and water in. Thyme thrives in dry conditions, so once the plants have established, you won’t need to continue watering them. When it comes to soil, the poorer the conditions and the lesser the nutrients, the better. Because they require no watering, they will not grow well if combined with thirstier plants in a container. Thyme Plant Care Thyme doesn’t need a lot of fussing over so is a great option for gardeners who are limited on time. When your thyme plant has finished flowering, you can trim it back, and this will help to encourage new growth. You’ll also enjoy more leaves to harvest when autumn next rolls around. You can leave thyme to its own devices, but over time the plants will become woody, and you will end up needing to replace them at least every three years. If you are growing thyme in pots or containers, you can give it a weekly feed of liquid seaweed from March through to May to boost the plant’s growth. Thyme really is the gift that keeps on giving – it’s so easy to grow and care for, and requires very little intervention in order to thrive – if anything, it does best when neglected! References 1. Can Fragrant Plants Help Repel Insects? (2018, April 13). Mississippi State University Extension Service. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://extension.msstate.edu/blog/can-fragrant-plants-help-repel-insects
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Why You Should Be Growing Rosemary - A Productive And Surprisingly Hardy Garden Herb
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Rosemary? Rosemary Types How To Grow Rosemary Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems References Rosemary is one distinctive herb; its needle-like foliage adds texture and structure to gardens, and its aromatic scent can transport you to a balmy evening somewhere in the Mediterranean. “If I had to pick one plant I couldn’t live without, it would have to be rosemary,” shares Garden Writer Sonya Patel Ellis. “I’ve had one plant in a container for nearly 20 years and it doesn’t matter what you throw at it – drought, snow, high winds, dust from nearby building projects – it just keeps shining through with its dark green, glossy, needle-like evergreen leaves, combined with the prettiest purple and white flowers for most of the year.” This delectable plant is also so easy to grow and produces romantic, delicate, pale blue flowers making it one of the most popular herbs among gardeners in the UK. In fact, rosemary grows so prolifically that managing and pruning are where you’ll spend most of your time caring for this perennial, evergreen shrub. Overview Botanical Name Salvia rosmarinus Common Name(s) Rosemary Plant Type Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Needle-like aromatic foliage Flowers Purple, lavender, white When To Sow March, April, May, September, October Flowering Months June, July When To Prune June, July, August, September With recent events in the world, many gardeners are trying to become even more self-sufficient. Including herbs like rosemary in your garden is a great way to do this, and can help you add gorgeous flavour to your meals, without having to make unwanted shopping trips. Rosemary is a fragrant, evergreen herb and, like other herbs such as oregano, lavender, thyme and basil, is a member of the mint family.1 Hailing from the Meditteranean, rosemary favours sunny and sheltered spots and, being an evergreen, its leaves can be harvested year-round.2 Why Grow Rosemary? Rosemary has been a real tradition in country garden cottages for generations, but these days you will see them in much more urban settings thanks to their versatility, charm and many uses. If you have any reservations about growing rosemary, then allow us to elaborate on why it really is the cat’s pyjamas: Rosemary is an excellent addition to many dishes, from roast chicken to roast lamb, salads to soups, not to mention the extra special something they offer for BBQs. This herb is the gift that keeps on giving. It fills your garden with its signature scent. No matter how tiny your garden is, you can still grow rosemary, it grows easily and speedily, making it a rewarding plant for any garden. Rosemary Types There are many, many strains of rosemary spanning a broad spectrum of features. If you are struggling to choose the right variety for your garden, we have put together a list of things to consider. Creeping Rosemary Recommended Variety: Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus Group’ A low-growing rosemary is a perfect option if you have a modest-sized garden. These varieties are well-suited to pots and containers and will also cascade down beautifully if planted in window boxes and planters. Creeping rosemary varieties grow no taller than 0.5m in height, but they can spread as far as 2-3m wide, which also makes them terrific for trailing over walls. Given how far this rosemary can spread, you will need to either allow for the space they need to grow or prune your plant effectively. “I grow my ‘Prostratus’ types for cascading over the side of containers,” says Sonya. “I recently visited the lovely island of Skyros in Greece and there was the most impressive 5m long clipped hedge of prostrate rosemary that felt and smelled incredible, especially at dusk and dawn. It will forever be imprinted on my senses.” Mid-Height Rosemary Recommended Variety: Salvia rosmarinus ‘Rosea’ As the name suggests, rosemary varieties in this category grow to a mid-height, usually growing no taller than 1m in height and spreading up to 1m in width. This variety can provide great ground cover for slopes and hard-to-reach areas of your garden. That said, with all types of rosemary it will spread as far as it can so if you are planting in a more confined area, you do need to keep an eye on it to prevent it taking over. Tall Rosemary Recommended Variety: S. rosmarinus ‘Albiflora Group’ Needless to say, this category of rosemary represents the tallest growing members of the family. These varieties can grow up to 2.5m tall and up to 2.5m wide. If you have the space for this plant, tall rosemary can bring a tremendous amount of texture, structure and interest to your garden. Smaller varieties make themselves known thanks to their unforgettable fragrance. The taller plants also make their presence known with their unique foliage which comes in shades of deep green, bright green and yellow-gold. How To Grow Rosemary Rosemary grows best in full sun, in a sheltered spot with well-drained soil. If planted straight into the garden then it is likely the young plants will be sitting in wet soil over the winter which can be extremely damaging. For this reason, we recommend planting rosemary in pots and containers and allowing it to establish itself for a few years before transplanting it into your garden. “Mediterranean herbs such as Rosemary do really well in pots because you can create the correct conditions for them by providing gritty, free draining and nutrient-poor soil,” shares Nicola Macnaughton, The Bonnie Gardener. “They hate being in claggy multipurpose compost.” You will also want to keep in mind that, if left to its own devices, rosemary can grow as much as four feet in height and four feet wide. If you are planning on allowing your rosemary to grow that large, then you will need to ensure that you plant it in a space that can accommodate it. Ongoing Plant Care Rosemary is a really low-maintenance plant, but there are a few things you can do to ensure healthy growth: Watering Water rosemary evenly throughout the growing season, taking extra care to do so during dry spells. Take care not to overwater; however, as rosemary will not tolerate sitting in wet soil. Growing Indoors If you are keen on having access to fresh rosemary for cooking during winter, then we recommend either taking a cutting or growing another plant inside. Be sure to place it in a warm sunny spot, away from cold drafts. Winter Care Rosemary that has been grown in the ground will not tolerate being replanted in a pot or container well. For this reason, if you do want fresh rosemary in the winter months, then that plant should be planted and kept in a pot or container which is easy to move in and out of your house. If you are facing a particularly harsh winter where your rosemary may not survive, then be sure to take cuttings for the following season. “Because I grow Rosemary on fertile, moist soil, it tends to grow somewhat lax and straggly after 3-4 years,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “After about 3 years, I take cuttings for replanting in year 5 to avoid a plant becoming large and too woody for harvesting.” Common Problems Rosemary is usually pretty unproblematic, but there are a few things to keep an eye out for: Rosemary beetle Aerial blight Bacterial leaf spots Root rot As you can see, rosemary is an incredibly easy and rewarding plant to grow and is sure to make your garden merrier, not to mention your kitchen. Rosemary is an essential herb when cooking and can also be used when making tea; it also fills your garden with its aromatic scent. References 1. Petruzzello, M. (2015a, August 19). List of plants in the family Lamiaceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Lamiaceae-2035853 2. Rosemary – Salvia rosmarinus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/rosemary
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The Complete Guide To Planting And Growing Herbs In Pots (Including The Best Types)
IN THIS GUIDE Which Herbs Grow Well In Pots? Which Herbs Should Not Be Planted Together? How Do You Keep Potted Herbs Alive? Potted vs Ground Herbs References Herbs are the secret to next-level cooking. Their rich and instantly-recognisable flavours bring colour to any meal, and having fresh herbs on standby is a quick and easy way to tap into this culinary game-changer. Indoor herb gardens are a favourite on lifestyle blogs and Pinterest pages. You can grow them in pots, sure, but are they really as easy to grow and to look after as people think? We’re writing with the assumption that most readers will be planning a small herb garden, and one that most likely includes a couple of supermarket-bought herbs. The information in our guide is tailored accordingly. It’s about giving pre-bought herbs their best chance at a long, healthy life, and perhaps adding a couple of new ones to the mix. Which Herbs Grow Well In Pots? “Most herbs enjoy being grown in containers,” says Malcolm, the owner of Hooksgreen Herbs and Treasurer of The Herb Society. “As long as the containers are large enough to allow good root growth and retain moisture, most herbs will be fine.” Head to the fruit and veg aisle in your local supermarket and you’ll probably find rosemary, parsley, coriander, thyme, basil, and mint – but these are far from your only options. The home herb gardener can also add bay, chives, fennel, oregano, dill, lemon balm, marjoram, sage, or tarragon to their arsenal. It all comes down to how you’re planning to use them and how ambitious you’re feeling. “Container-grown herbs will need more care than those grown in the garden,” says Malcolm. “However, the more tender annual herbs like basil, dill and coriander will thrive in containers protected from slugs! “Mint should also be grown in containers, otherwise it will wander around the garden.” Obviously looking after more herbs will be harder than having one or two, and there’s not much point in growing something that you’re never going to use. As we said earlier, this guide is tailored toward people planning a small-scale herb garden, most likely including a couple of pre-grown supermarket herbs. Which Herbs Should Not Be Planted Together? Before setting out on your homegrown herb adventure, be aware that some herbs don’t thrive when planted together. We’ll quote The Guardian here, as they offer a perfect explanation of what to avoid – “You can grow herbs in pots together as long as you remember two rules: avoid mixing those that like plenty of water (such as chives, mint, chervil, coriander, Vietnamese coriander) with those that like a well-drained soil (such as rosemary, thyme, sage, bay, and oregano).”1 How Do You Keep Potted Herbs Alive? Keeping potted herbs alive is a case of taking good care of them and, if you’re growing them yourself from scratch, giving them the optimal conditions. Potted herbs from supermarkets are actually many seedlings growing together in a pot, rather than one plant sharing a root system. This means they’re all competing for nutrients in the soil, which is why their lifespan is finite if you don’t intervene. If you decide to keep your supermarket herbs alive, you’ll need to break up the seedlings. Pull the ‘plant’ out of the pot, and separate the seedlings out. Identify the strongest ones, then replant these into pots with the right kind of soil to help them flourish. Herbs like moist, gritty compost. Be careful not to let it get soggy, though, as this can cause damage to the plants. Most herbs will do just fine in your average garden soil – this is especially true if you’re growing them casually in a window box. Individual herbs vary in how long they can thrive in the same soil. Some, like mint, require frequent repotting to stay in their best condition, others like sage and rosemary can remain in the same pot for a very long time. We recommend reading the specific care instructions for the herbs you’re planning to grow. This increases the likelihood of long-term good health of your plants. How Long Do Potted Herbs Last? If you take good care of them, some herb varieties can continue to grow indefinitely. Again, we recommend researching each herb on a case-by-case basis, as the intricacies of each plant go beyond the scope of this introductory guide! As a quick pointer, though – Parsley and coriander are biennial and will go to seed every two years Basil, dill, and sage are annuals – you’ll need to replace them each year Thyme, rosemary, tarragon, oregano, marjoram, and mint are perennials – they’ll keep on going if you treat them right Do Herbs Need Full Sun? Most herbs thrive in full sun, with at least six hours a day being favourite. Growing on a windowsill practically guarantees this in summer, but in winter, or if your house is unusually dark, choose a herb that can survive with less direct sunlight. Potential candidates include – Mint Parsley Chives Coriander Tarragon How Much Water Do Herbs Need? After replanting supermarket herbs, give them a healthy glug of water. Separating them out and repotting them can be fairly traumatic, and a good amount of moisture helps to get them back on track. “Containers dry out in warm and hot weather as they continue to transpire day and night,” explains Malcolm. “Make sure to water regularly.” The amount of water herbs need varies depending on their type and size, so the best rule of thumb is to touch the soil and see. If it feels dry, add some water. If not, leave them be for a while. “Feeding is also important for container-grown herbs and should be carried out every 6 weeks with a seasonal, slow-release fertiliser,” Malcolm says. Potted vs Ground Herbs The colours and scents will enliven your space As we touched on earlier, herbs suit people without a garden or any outdoor space at all. If you’ve got the luxury of choosing whether to grow in pots or in the ground, here are some pointers to help you decide. Growing In The Ground Obviously, all herbs started their lives outside initially as wild plants. However, because growing herbs for cooking relies on keeping them under control, not all herbs are suitable for growing outdoors in this context. See our list of hardy outdoor herbs for some firm inspiration. Growing In Pots Some herbs will give you a good harvest, others will produce for a while, then start to suffer. Others, you’ll be hard-pressed to get to thrive in an indoor pot. Firstly, the light inside your home during winter, even when next to a window, probably won’t reach the desired levels herbs need to thrive. “My experience of growing herbs on a windowsill is that they are not easy to maintain for more than a few weeks due to uneven light levels and low humidity,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “If you have space outside, even an outside window box (preferably south facing), this is a far better option if you want to grow your potted herbs (rather than consume them over a few weeks).” They’ll likely only get an hour or two of direct sun per day, rather than the six or more they need. Humidity in your home (if you live here in the UK) is likely way below what they need to fully flourish, too. Each herb has different needs, and some suit being grown indoors more than others. Parsley and bay, for example, are renowned as easy to grow indoors. Others, like chives, require cold treatment before thriving inside. References 1. Ridsdill Smith, M. (2018, August 2). Ten of the best herbs to grow in containers. The Guardian. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/aug/15/ten-best-herbs-grow-containers
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You Can Grow Achillea (Yarrow) In Flowerbeds Or Pots - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Yarrow Container Growing In Flowerbeds Preferred Soil & Watering Common Problems Indoor Arrangements References Achillea plants (AKA ‘Yarrows’) are perennials that have a distinctive look and are very popular with gardeners throughout the UK due to their hardiness and unique beauty. Considered part of the daisy family – yarrows have a variety of colourful flowers and lush foliage.1 Many growers have a fondness for yarrows since they are quite easy to grow and look after and look great when combined with other plants. If you want to grow yarrows, either in your garden or in pots, then you should find the information below incredibly useful. Overview Botanical Name Achillea millefolium Common Name(s) Yarrow Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe and Western Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Herbaceous toothed leaves Flowers Small daisy-like flowers in white, pink etc. – grouped in flat-headed umbels When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August Achillea millefolium, or yarrows, are part of the Asteraceae family and are native to the Northern Hemisphere, including the UK, China and the US.2 Today, they’re grown all around the world for their beauty. A. millefolium is the most common type of yarrow plant and has small white, pink-tinged flowers and grows natively throughout Europe.3 How To Grow Yarrow Container Growing Growing yarrows in containers is quite simple, whether you choose to buy established plants, or grow them yourself from seeds. Growing from seed is the cheaper option of the two, and since Achillea germinates very quickly, you don’t need to wait too long to see them flourishing. Achillea does best with exposure to full sunlight, so it’s best to place them in a sunny spot – they can still do well in partial shade too, however. Always make sure you use containers that are big enough to accommodate your plants as they grow. In Flowerbeds If you want to grow yarrow outdoors in a flowerbed, then you have a couple of choices. You can either acquire already established plants and replant them; or use seed or a plant that you’ve grown in a container. If you’re sowing from seed, then the best time to do this would be during the spring or early summer. This will give them time to get established without the need to worry about frost damage or the soil being too saturated. When picking a spot to plant them, you should opt for a position that gets plenty of direct sunlight. This will ensure they flower well and are less susceptible to certain fungal diseases. Preferred Soil & Watering Achillea are not difficult at all when it comes to their water and soil requirements. Generally, they can do very well, even in dry conditions. This means you won’t usually need to water them other than during particularly long dry spells. As for soil requirements – yarrow will do well in most types of soil, even heavy clay soil. Ideally your soil would be light and open, but if not, your plants should still be ok. The main thing to be aware of is that if you’re planting in soil that’s not optimal, then you should make sure you avoid planting them later in the year so there’s no risk of frost damage or the soil being waterlogged while they’re getting established. Common Problems Yarrows are generally problem-free, provided they’re properly cared for. Still, there are certain diseases and pests that can cause issues. Below are some of the most common problems as well as how to deal with them – Rust Rust is a general term for a number of fungal diseases that cause rust-coloured spots to appear on the leaves of infected plants. To prevent rust, you should ensure good air circulation and avoid getting water on leaves. If you notice any plants that are badly infected, then you should dig them up and destroy them to prevent it from spreading. Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects many different types of plants. When infected, the leaves of the plant will have a coat of white mildew on top of them that’s not dissimilar in appearance to powder. In order to avoid powdery mildew becoming an issue, you should take care when watering plants to ensure that water doesn’t splash up onto the leaves. Adding a layer of mulch is a good way to avoid this – you should also space plants out enough to provide good air circulation. Mealybugs Mealybugs are very small insects that leave behind a white powder on the branches and leaves of plants they infest. They extract sap from the leaves, which results in poor growth. The excretion of honeydew also causes mould – as well as attracting ants. If you notice mealybugs on your plants, then you can get rid of them by either washing them off the surface using water, or, by encouraging the presence of predatorial insects, such as wasps and ladybirds. Aphids In addition to feeding on the underside of leaves, aphids also leave behind a residue that can attract ants, causing even more damage. Thankfully, they are quite easy to get rid of. If you notice them on your plants, then a few blasts of water or soapy water should be enough to remove them (if only for a little while). Spider Mites Spider mites are another pest that can affect yarrow. Despite their tiny size, they can still cause a lot of damage to plants. They multiply very quickly and can damage the foliage of plants considerably. You can usually spot spider mites from the webbing they leave behind. If you notice them on your plants, then blasting them with water should do the trick. Thrips Thrips are very small insects that attack different parts of plants they infest, including the stem, leaves and petals. You can usually spot plants that are infested with thrips by the leaves changing colour, or having a discoloured or silvery appearance to them. You can get rid of thrips by using soapy water. It’s also recommended that you remove any plants that are seriously affected by them to prevent spreading. Spreading / Invasiveness Achillea will usually spread in the wild, but it’s quite easy to keep on top of it when planting in your garden. Certain species are more aggressive and do self-seed readily so bear this in mind when buying yarrow plants. Deadheading in autumn can help prevent the spread of seeds in your garden. Indoor Arrangements Some varieties of yarrow are better than others for indoor vase arrangements, such as ‘The Pearl’ and ‘White Giant’. Always be sure to take cuttings from plants that are healthy and when new growth is coming through in the spring. Be sure to cut the stems at a 45° angle and that you place the cuttings into water as soon as possible. You should also remove any foliage that would sit underneath the vasewater and find a place to put the vase that’s out of direct sunlight. References 1. Achillea millefolium. (n.d.). North Carolina Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/achillea-millefolium/ 2. Achillea L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/60436826-2 3. Common Yarrow (Achillea millefolium). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/52821-Achillea-millefolium
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Plant Hypericum ‘St. John's Wort’ At Any Time Of Year - Then Follow These Instructions
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow St. John’s Wort Hypericum Care Propagation References St. John’s Wort is a herbaceous perennial showcasing paired green leaves and attractive, star-shaped flowers in various shades of yellow, that will brighten up even the dreariest of gardens. It is a plant that grows easily in the UK climate and can thrive in all soil types. You should, however, air on the side of caution if you plan to add it to your garden, as in many local areas it is classified as a noxious weed.1 If that doesn’t put you off, and you’re still keen to bring St. John’s Wort into your garden, read on for our best care and growing tips, to find out everything you need to know about this bright and widespread wonder plant. Overview Botanical Name Hypericum perforatum Common Name(s) St John’s Wort Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe, North Africa, South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Small, ovate leaves, deciduous Flowers Star-shaped yellow flowers When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March Hypericum ‘St John’s Wort’ is a member of the Hypericaceae family, and is found in most parts of the world, including Europe, North and South America, Australia and Asia.2 Due to its widespread nature, it is difficult to pin down exactly where it originated. According to Kew, the variation Hypericum perforatum is thought to come from Europe, North Africa and Asia.3 There are thought to be around 400 different varieties of Hypericum, but it’s H. perforatum that is known as common St. John’s Wort.4 Other names for this popular variety include ‘Herb John’, ‘Devil Chaser’, ‘Devil’s Flight’ and ‘God’s Wonder Plant’. It is also sometimes called ‘St. Columba’s Flower’. When fully grown, H. perforatum reaches 0.5-1m in height, and a spread of up to 0.5m (it can take up to 5 years to reach this point). It has reddish, woody stems and yellow-green leaves with translucent dots that make the leaves appear perforated and inspire its name. In early summer, it produces bright yellow, star-shaped blooms of up to 2.5cm in diameter. Habitat & Growing Conditions Hypericum ‘St John’s Wort’ is thought to be native to Europe and Asia, but has spread and now grows in many other parts of the world, including North and South America, Australia and New Zealand. It can thrive in a variety of climates, including those with summer or winter-dominant rainfall. It generally grows in fields and pastures. How To Grow St. John’s Wort The best time to plant Hypericum ‘St. John’s Wort’ is in mid-spring, March to April, or in the autumn, in September or October. However, you can plant at any time of the year, providing the soil is not frozen. One of the best (and most common varieties) of St. John’s Wort to grow in the UK is H. x hidcoteense ‘Hidcote’. This variety produces numerous bright yellow flowers throughout July and August and remains mostly evergreen over the winter. It typically grows to 1.2m tall, and can also make an attractive hedging plant. Planting To plant a Hypericum, you should find a partially shaded spot in your garden and dig a hole double the size of the plant’s root ball. Add the plant, along with some organic fertiliser, and re-fill the hole with soil – water the ground thoroughly. Container Growing St. John’s Wort will adapt to most growing conditions, and it is possible to grow it in a container – although this does not represent its ideal environment. Make sure your container has good drainage, and keep the soil moist. Hypericum Care St. John’s Wort is a very hardy plant that is easy to grow in the UK and requires next to no maintenance once established. H. x hidcoteense ‘Hidcote’ It can thrive in sunny or shaded conditions, sheltered or exposed – the ideal spot for it is probably one with partial shade. Soil It will grow in most soil types, including clay, chalk and sandy, and all pHs, as long as the soil is moist and has good drainage. The plant is therefore a perfect choice for any area of the garden and makes a particularly great addition to a riverbank, border or wildflower area. You should plant your Hypericum in spring or autumn (providing the ground isn’t frozen), and water well. Watering & Feeding Once established, Hypericum requires very little ongoing care, but you should water as required during the growing period, or in cases of extreme drought. You can also add a fertiliser twice a year for the first 5 years, to help it establish. Propagation Hypericum can be propagated by seed, division, or by taking softwood cuttings. By Seed To propagate by seed, sow seeds any time from mid-spring to early autumn. Make sure the bed is well-dug and weed-free, and the surface soil is crumbly in texture. Space the seeds around 0.5m apart, depending on the variety. Keep the soil moist during the growing period. By Division To propagate Hypericum by division, you should act in spring or autumn, when the plant isn’t in active growth. Lift the existing plant gently out of the ground, and divide the root ball into two. Re-plant the divisions immediately, and water well. This is an easy way of propagating Hypericum. By Softwood Cuttings If you want to take softwood cuttings, the best time to do this is in July and August, when the plant is in full bloom. To take your cuttings, you should look for new growth and non-flowering shoots that will root more easily. Take 10cm cuttings, starting from just above a bud. Once you have your cutting, remove lower leaves and dip the bottom in a rooting hormone. Plant your cuttings in a pot with compost and water them, then cover with a plastic bag and place them somewhere warm. Keep the soil moist, and after around 10 weeks, your cuttings should be rooted and ready to pot individually. References 1. Common St. Johnswort identification and control: Hypericum perforatum. (2018, September 18). King County. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://kingcounty.gov/services/environment/animals-and-plants/noxious-weeds/weed-identification/st-johns-wort.aspx 2. Hanson, S. (2013, January 9). Hypericaceae – St John’s wort family. Whiteknights Biodiversity. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://blogs.reading.ac.uk/whiteknightsbiodiversity/2013/01/09/hypericaceae-st-johns-wort-family/ 3. Hypericum perforatum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:433719-1 4. Hypericum perforatum. (n.d.-b). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hypericum-perforatum/
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