Growing
Why Bellis Perennis ‘Lawn Daisies’ Are Perfect For A Wild Lawn Or Perennial Meadow
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Daisy Varieties How To Grow Lawn Daisies Planting Out Daisy Plant Care References Daisies are one of the native plants with which most people are extremely familiar. They are an important part of British childhood and many will remember sitting on the grass and making daisy chains as a child. There are common daisies growing in many lawns and wildflower meadows across the UK and also many cultivars derived from this native wildflower that offer bedding plants for a range of different growing schemes. Even though it is so common, the common daisy still has the capacity to surprise and there are many things about these cheerful little flowers that you might not know. Overview Botanical Name Bellis perennis Common Name(s) Common Daisy / Lawn Daisy Plant Type Perennial Native Area Europe, including the UK Hardiness Rating H5-H7 Foliage Evergreen Flowers White petals, yellow centres, pink-tinged edges When To Sow June – July Bellis perennis, the common daisy, lawn daisy or English daisy as it is sometimes known, is a common native wildflower and often grows in lawns in British gardens. It is native to western, central and southern reaches of Europe but has now become widely naturalised in most temperate climate regions.1 Even those very familiar with these daisies are surprised to learn that they are edible. The young leaves of these daisies can be eaten raw in salads or cooked, though they can get somewhat astringent or bitter as they age.2 In the garden, daisies can be great additions to a wild lawn or perennial wildflower meadow. They also look good at the front of borders, along pathway edges or in rockeries, and can find a place in a huge range of different planting schemes. Common Daisy Varieties Other than the species type, some interesting Bellis perennis varieties to grow include: B. perennis ‘Tasso’ Series B. perennis ‘Romi’ Series B. perennis ‘Roggli’ Series B. perennis ‘Dresden China’ B. perennis ‘Pomponette Mixed’ A few other common varieties whose names you might recognise: B. perennis ‘Belissima’ Series B. perennis ‘Lower Minety’ You will find that Bellis daisies come in a wide range of different colours and styles of bloom. Many of the above have double flowers that are considered attractive, but remember that double flowers will not generally be as good for the pollinators and other wildlife in your garden as the single-flowered types. These cultivars, like the common daisy, are naturally perennial, but they are often treated as biennials in a garden setting. How To Grow Lawn Daisies These daisies are remarkably easy to grow, whether we are talking about allowing the wildflower to proliferate in a grassy area or cultivating varieties of this species in flower beds or borders. Of course, you do need to provide the right growing conditions in order for these flowers to thrive. Remember to make sure that there is enough sunlight and that the soil conditions are free-draining, as these are really the most important things when growing daisies in your garden. Sowing These daisies’ seeds are best sown when they mature after flowering, in June or July. The seeds are typically sown where they are to grow, sometimes as part of a wildflower mix. Bellis perennis and cultivars of this wildflower often self-seed readily, so once you have them in your garden, you should find that they can spread without your intervention. However, double flowers may sometimes revert to single blooms when self-seeded. Planting Out Bedding-type Bellis perennis cultivars are typically planted out into beds or borders between March and May. These hardy plants can also be planted out in autumn to overwinter before flowering the following spring. Plant Bellis perennis in full sun or partial shade – not in too shaded a position. Soil Requirements When choosing where to sow or plant Bellis perennis, you also need to think about the soil. Fortunately, these plants are relatively unfussy and they do not mind about soil type or pH levels. However, they do require relatively free-draining conditions and do not like saturated conditions or waterlogging. Daisy Plant Care Not much care is required when growing common daisies in a UK garden. The natural native species type will thrive on its own with little to no care and attention from the gardener. Watering & Feeding Daisies can typically thrive with natural rainfall in the ground and will only need additional watering when grown in pots or during prolonged dry spells. For these low-maintenance plants, feeding is not generally required when growing in the ground. However, to promote good flowering, especially if growing in pots, it is a good idea to feed every couple of weeks with an organic, potassium-rich, liquid plant feed. Pruning No pruning is required when growing native lawn daisies, but if you are growing the bedding type, you may choose to cut back after flowering has come to an end for aesthetic reasons. You may wish to deadhead the flowers if you wish to avoid self-seeding and, in any case, with cultivars deadheading can prolong the blooming period. Dividing These daisies can be propagated by means of division, which will also help you to avoid the congestion of existing clumps. You can divide daisies in the autumn after flowering or you can divide the plants during the spring, from March to May. Winter Care Bellis perennis are fully-hardy perennials that can easily survive winter in any UK garden. The species type has an RHS hardiness rating of H7. They will typically (though not always) die back in the winter, but will burst into new growth in the following spring. Common Problems Daisies are generally free from pests but can be infected by rust. You should generally find that as long as you care for your plants correctly and have positioned them in a suitable location, they are relatively easy and problem-free plants. Invasiveness Common lawn daisies were historically often viewed as weeds in a lawn, but there is an increasingly good understanding in the UK that a manicured lawn is not an eco-friendly or sustainable choice and that daisies and other wildflowers are welcome additions. However, they are a valuable native species in the UK, but outside of their range they can be detrimental as non-native, invasive plants. “If you keep a manicured lawn and like your plant beds weed-free, Bellis perennis may not be something you want to encourage in your garden due to its invasive nature,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “You may find a cultivated variety of Bellis that can be grown in a pot and deadheaded would be a better option.” References 1. Bellis perennis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved July 7, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:184409-1 2. Common Daisy, Bruisewort, Bellis perenis. (2022, April 28). Wild Food UK. Retrieved July 7, 2023, from https://www.wildfooduk.com/edible-wild-plants/daisy/
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Boysenberry Bliss: Follow These Tips For Juicy, Flavourful Berries
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Boysenberry Planting Guidelines Boysenberry Plant Care References While the juicy boysenberry’s balance and flavour vary by ripeness, at any given point it combines such luscious tones of sweet, tangy and tart that you’ll want another handful. Made to order for berry-lovers, the Boysenberry is a Raspberry, Blackberry, Dewberry and Loganberry all rolled up into one. Developed by Rudolph Boysen in California in the early twentieth century, this berry saw its highs and lows in popularity over the succeeding decades.1 Overview Botanical Name Rubus ursinus × idaeus Common Name(s) Boysenberry Plant Type Perennial shrub Native Area Southern California Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Large, white open flowers; five papery petals flared open; numerous conspicuous stamens and pistils When To Plant October to May Harvesting Months July New cultivars, including thornless ones, were developed and Boysenberries gained popularity in new regions, such as the UK, though they struggled to retain that popularity. Boysenberry is a bramble or aggregate fruit, like the ones it is derived from, which looks like an oblong and considerably bigger, deep purple blackberry. These wonderful berries combine sweet, tangy and tart flavours. They are rather delicate and do not keep and transport well but they are absolutely mouth-watering when enjoyed fresh. Furthermore, these berries are simply terrific for preparing preserves, sauces, compotes and pies. As for the Boysenberry shrub, it sends up appealing canes that may be mistaken for vines. How To Grow Boysenberry Soil Requirements Boysenberry bushes will flourish in rich, fertile, well-draining soil. A sandy, chalky loam fairly generously amended with organic compost and well-rotted (cattle) manure would be ideal. To ensure very good drainage, add grit or perlite. These plants grow best in soil with a neutral pH. Propagation Methods Boysenberry plants can be propagated by the home gardener fairly easily via greenwood cuttings of first-year canes in summer. Prepare small pots with potting compost amended with perlite and sand, with a deep layer of sand and perlite at the top, then dampen the medium. Take 15-20cm lengths from first-year canes from the greenwood canes, making the cut just under a leaf node. Leave 2-3 leaves near the top of each cutting and remove the rest. Dip the bases of the cuttings in a rooting hormone or in cinnamon and honey. Insert into the pots one-quarter to one-third of the length of the respective cutting. Cover the cuttings with tents made of clear polythene sheets to increase humidity. Each tent should have some small punctures in it and should not touch the cutting. Keep the pots in bright but indirect light and moisten the soil daily. “You can take a non-flowering or fruiting stem cutting, stick it straight in the ground and it will often take,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Planting Guidelines Plant Boysenberry about two weeks after the last frost in your region, which will usually be sometime in April or May or when dormant from October onwards. Boysenberry plants should be planted in full sun in a sheltered position. A north-facing aspect is to be avoided. Do not plant Boysenberries where vegetables are or have been planted. The reason is that some vegetables, such as potatoes and capsicums, are well known to leave behind pathogens that Boysenberry plants can succumb to. Prepare the type of soil outlined above and cultivate the bed deeply, moisten the soil before planting and then space plants by 80-100cm. If you are transplanting a nursery-bought start or plant, be certain to plant it no lower than it was in the pot. Boysenberry Plant Care Light & Temperature Boysenberry brambles should be sited in full sun in the UK. In the chilliest regions of the country, it would be a good idea to protect these plants during a harsh winter. Both the root system and the canes should be covered with horticultural fleece. Otherwise, though a harsh winter will probably not kill the plant outright, it may well kill or damage the coming year’s fruiting canes (second-year canes). Apart from that, the temperature ranges in most parts of the UK are perfect for growing Boysenberries. Watering & Feeding Boysenberries require a fair amount of water, so aim to keep the upper 2-3cm of soil continuously moist. A total of 3-5cm of water per week should be just right. Hot, dry weather will increase the plant’s water needs. Over autumn and winter, keep the roots hydrated by watering at a reduced volume and lower frequency. Feed the plants once in early spring with an all-purpose, balanced, slow-release fertiliser. We suggest that you dilute the fertiliser to about 75% of the manufacturer’s specifications. Mulching Though Boysenberries are fully hardy and the British summer will not affect this shrub, it would be beneficial to mulch it during the peak of summer to conserve moisture and during the equivalent trough of winter, to protect the roots from a hard frost. A 10cm layer of straw and hay mulch will do very well. Remember to leave a ring around the centre of the plant, mulching about 8cm away from the centre. Training & Support The species plant and many or most cultivars have trailing canes and, as a result, need support. Keep in mind that canes have a two-year lifespan and after two years they should be cut down at the ground, so no training is necessary. The best type of trellis for Boysenberry canes is a latticed one made of narrow strips of wood or wire. In early spring, just when you see fresh growth emerging, ensure that the second-year canes (floricanes) are growing on the trellis. Straighten, fully or partially, those that are growing along the ground. Canes will be supported on the trellis in a fanned-out form, where outer canes will be slanted outward. Outer canes and obstinate canes may be fastened to the trellis with garden wire or plant ties. Pruning Boysenberry plants should be pruned in autumn after you wind up your harvest. Cut down and remove all second-year canes. These are the ones that are grey-brown and have produced fruit. If first-year canes, which are green, number 9 or more, thin them. Choose the most vigorous and longest 6-8 canes and cut the others off at ground level. These canes’ green side shoots will bear berries the following year. Laterals that are longer than about 30cm should be trimmed to 25-30cm. Harvesting Boysenberries are among the most delicate and perishable of berries, which has a strong influence on how they have to be picked and stored. The harvesting season typically runs from mid-July to mid-August. Individual berries within clusters will ripen over different days, so it is best to pick Boysenberries every 2-3 days over the course of a month. Simply pluck the berry off the stem with a downward pull. When berries progress from reddish-purple to deep blackish-purple, they are at their peak and should be picked. Boysenberries are notorious for their susceptibility to bruising and getting squished, so take a shallow basket in which the fruit won’t be stacked more than two layers high. They can be kept in a fruit bowl or brown paper bag in the fridge for 4-5 days. Common Problems Boysenberries are prone to their fair share of pests and fungal diseases. The pests they are mostly vulnerable to, in ascending order of seriousness, are aphids, various mites and raspberry beetles. The last-named pest, or its larvae, causes serious damage to the fruit. Fungal diseases include anthracnose and rusts. Controlling these diseases on a fruiting plant is rather difficult because of the inability to use chemicals. Good gardening practices, including correct watering techniques, good airflow and the use of non-contaminated soil, will reduce the chances of Boysenberry plants contracting fungal diseases. References 1. The Boysenberry and The Chicken Dinner. (2022, May 2). CSUN University Library. Retrieved September 5, 2023, from https://library.csun.edu/SCA/Peek-in-the-Stacks/walter-knott
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Vigorous Bamboo Can Quickly Take Over - Here's How To Remove It (Including The Roots)
IN THIS GUIDE When & Why Bamboo Can Be A Problem Halting Excessive Bamboo Spread Removing Bamboo References Bamboo can be a truly stunning addition to a garden in the right spot, but these vigorous plants can often become more of a problem than a delight. If left unchecked, many types of bamboo can grow and spread at a tremendous rate and could completely take over an area if you do not do something about it. Running bamboo, which spreads by means of long rhizomes that send up new colonies, are usually more problematic than clump-forming bamboo – but both can spread if you are not careful. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Saw, axe or mattock When To Remove Whenever it has overgrown When & Why Bamboo Can Be A Problem Bamboo can become a problem where it is overly large and vigorous for its location or where it spreads beyond desirable bounds. While bamboos can often be great ornamental plants (and can even provide useful and edible yields in a productive garden), shoots from running bamboo can pop up far from the parent plant. They can breach ground cover membranes with ease and even break through solid barriers like patios, porches or conservatory floors. Clump-forming bamboo, though they will not spread so broadly, can still spread or grow further and larger than you might wish. “Serious consideration should be given before planting a Bamboo due to its invasive nature,” says gardening expert Dan Ori. “Some varieties are not so rampant and will grow in containers, you will just need to keep on top of pruning back roots that poke out and keep them well watered. “I would recommend whenever possible opting for a grass like a Miscanthus or a tree like a multi-stemmed birch or Acer to achieve a similar effect.” Halting Excessive Bamboo Spread If you have a bamboo in your garden that you wish to keep, but which has become a little too large or spread too much you can: Prune tall canes down to the required height in spring. The canes can be cut off to a lower height to restrict their growth upwards, but this will encourage lusher foliage growth. Dig up and separate sections from the edges of a clump or unwanted new colonies manually. Unearth the root systems of the sections of bamboo that you would like to remove and get rid of these, ensuring that you take away as much of the rhizomes below the ground level as you can. With a number of bamboos, you can eat cooked young bamboo shoots in the spring.1 Harvesting young shoots can be one excellent way to reduce the spread of an existing plant and give you an additional yield from your garden. While these will come back each year, harvesting shoots regularly can definitely help keep plants in check. Use bamboo canes for a range of other purposes. Bamboo is a very useful material, which can be used as a sustainable option for a range of different things in your home and garden. By treating your bamboo as a crop, you can harvest plenty of it and keep existing plants in check. After digging out unwanted sections of bamboo that have grown out of bounds, it is a good idea to insert a physical barrier vertically into the soil around the remaining plant to prevent its further spread, while keeping the existing plant. Removing Bamboo In an organic garden, it is never a good idea to use targeted weedkillers. Instead, use physical barriers to contain existing plants or take manual steps to slowly remove and eradicate the plant altogether from your garden. The best option is to take steps to remove an unwanted plant manually, by digging out the existing rhizomes and lifting the plants (or sections of the plants) from the soil. Large bamboo can be challenging to remove, especially if you are dealing with a heavy soil. However, it is worth taking the time to dig around the base of the entire plant with a sharp shade and slowly undertake the laborious work of removing all the rhizomes from the ground. Use a saw, axe or mattock to chop through thick and tangled root systems and remove as much of the plant you wish to eradicate as you can, section by section. Try to make sure that no rhizomes are left behind. Eradicating a vigorous bamboo entirely will not be easy, but by taking the time to dig up and remove as much of the plant as possible – then repopulating the area with dense plant cover of more wanted kinds – you should eventually be able to get rid of the bamboo that you do not want from your garden. References 1. Rd, R. a. M. (2021, May 14). Are bamboo shoots good for you? All you need to know. Healthline. Retrieved August 24, 2023, from https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/are-bamboo-shoots-good-for-you
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This Is How To Nurture Astrophytum With Six Interesting Varieties To Grow
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Astrophytum Varieties How To Grow Astrophytum Astrophytum Care Guidelines References Astrophytum is a genus with several different species of perennial cacti to grow in a greenhouse under glass or in bright, filtered light indoors. While more commonly grown as houseplants in the UK, these cacti may also sometimes be grown outside in a suitably warm, sunny, sheltered spot where temperatures do not fall below freezing. Overview Botanical Name Astrophytum Common Name(s) Monk’s Hood Cactus Plant Type Perennial cactus Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Solitary, funnel-shaped flowers followed by berries that are red or green When To Sow March to April There are six accepted species within the Astrophytum genus, all of which hail from arid regions of South America, particularly Mexico.1 These species are all cacti, specially adapted to survive with low water availability and periods of drought. Their stems are spherical in form, ribbed or columnar and they have woolly, occasionally spiny areoles. Their flowers, borne in summer, are funnel-shaped and solitary. These flowers can, in optimal conditions, be followed by red or green berries. Astrophytum Varieties The six species of Astrophytum are: A. asterias A. capricorne A. caput-medusae A. coahuilense A. myriostigma A. ornatum The most commonly grown species in the UK are A. ornatum, A. myriostigma and A. capricorne, all of which have an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. How To Grow Astrophytum Astrophytums are typically grown indoors here, as it can be challenging to give the plants the warmth and dry conditions they require outdoors in our climate. In order to grow these cacti successfully, you need to mimic as closely as possible the conditions that these plants would experience in the wild in their native range. Growing Conditions If you are growing Astrophytum outdoors, they need as sunny, warm and sheltered a spot as possible and though they can cope with relatively cold temperatures, they cannot cope with temperatures that fall below freezing at any time. Indoors, they should be kept in a location where they are not exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations or cold draughts. Sunlight Outdoors, these cacti will need a location in full sun. Indoors, they prefer a location in bright but filtered light. Soil Preference These cacti need free-draining conditions, which is one of the most important elements to remember when growing these plants. The soil must be sharply drained, poor and slightly alkaline in pH. When growing in pots, a free-draining loam-based potting mix with sharp sand mixed in to improve drainage should be used or you can select and purchase a proprietary blend specifically designed for growing cacti. Astrophytum Care Guidelines Like most other cacti, these plants can be very forgiving when it comes to care that leaves something to be desired. These plants can be tolerant of a fairly high level of neglect. Watering Astrophytum should only be watered once the growing medium has become dry in spring, summer and early autumn. In the winter months, it should be left alone completely and not watered at all. Horticultural expert Dan Ori explains that timing on the first water in spring can be tricky for many of us to understand as it is more about daylight than temperature: “Based on the sunshine coast of Sussex, I get suitable daylight from early March to start watering, but you could be weeks later in Scotland, which is why I normally tell people to start watering at Easter whenever it falls.” It is important to reduce and then cease watering while the plant approaches and then enters its dormant state. When you are watering from spring to early autumn, it is important to water deeply and well each time you do water. Don’t water too often, but when you do water, give it a good soak so that the roots of the plant are able to take up all the water they need. Propagation Astrophytum are typically propagated by seed. The seeds are sown in the early spring indoors or under cover. It is typically necessary to use a heat mat or heated propagator as the seeds must be kept consistently at 21°C for germination to take place successfully. Common Problems Though Astrophytums are generally disease-free, there are certain common houseplant pests that can become an issue for these plants. Scale insects and mealybugs, for example, can potentially become problems when you are growing these cacti indoors. References 1. Astrophytum Lem. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved July 24, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001394-2
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In Warmer Regions You May Have A Fighting Chance At Winterproofing Snapdragons
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Grow In A Suitable Location 2) Prune Antirrhinum In Autumn 3) Add A Thick Layer Of Mulch 4) Protect Against The Elements 5) Keep The Soil Moist 6) Remove Any Mulch After Winter Snapdragons are famous for their colourful and charming outward-facing flowers that do indeed resemble a dragon’s head. These cottage garden standards are divided into annual, biennial and perennial types. The vast majority of snapdragon varieties are hardy to H3 and are treated as annuals, meaning that they are hardy only in the milder regions of the UK, such as the southern and south-eastern coasts. Whether you can care for snapdragons in winter depends on whether you have grown them in open ground or in pots – and on your region of the UK. If you live in Scotland, the midlands or a similarly cold region, it would, unfortunately, be a waste of time trying to care for outdoor snapdragons during winter. However, if you live in one of the warmer regions of the UK, you have a fighting chance to winterproof your plants so that they come back the following year. Caring for snapdragons over the winter in the UK requires gardeners to follow these simple steps: Site your snapdragons in an optimal location. In late autumn, prune your snapdragons. Apply a layer of mulch. Try to protect snapdragons from the snow, rain and wind. Moisten the soil from time to time. Remove the mulch after winter and move your potted snapdragons back outside. Explore each step below to try to preserve your Antirrhinum for another year! Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening trowel, secateurs 1) Grow In A Suitable Location If you grow or transplant snapdragons outdoors, then, to begin with, you should site them in an optimal location. This should be in a spot that receives full sun and is sheltered from any strong winds, preferably with a west or south-facing aspect. 2) Prune Antirrhinum In Autumn Near the end of autumn, when the flowering season is over but winter is yet to arrive, prune the plants. Cut off all dead and diseased stems and remove excessively-branching stems. You can cut back the plant by about half. Alternatively, if you are growing your snapdragons in a container, autumn is the time to bring them indoors. Ensure that the room’s temperature remains between 15-20°C for the best results. 3) Add A Thick Layer Of Mulch Apply a 10cm layer of mulch 6-8cm away from the main stem of your snapdragons. A mulch of half-cooked leaf mould would be a good choice. 4) Protect Against The Elements Ensure that the soil does not get overly wet. If you can protect the plants from the snow, wind and rain, then I strongly recommend that you do so. 5) Keep The Soil Moist Do not let the subsoil stay dry for too long, so water sparingly if growing outside. If you’re growing your snapdragons in pots, do not let the subsoil dry out and stay dry – keep it moist. For deciduous varieties, water sparingly so that the roots get the necessary moisture, and for semi-evergreen varieties water lightly so that the soil does not dry out. 6) Remove Any Mulch After Winter The following spring, after the last frost has passed and the soil temperature has warmed up, or as soon as you see fresh green growth, remove the mulch. Gardening expert Dan Ori suggests keeping some horticultural fleece to hand in case of an unexpected late frost. Sometime in spring after the weather has warmed up, with the exact timeframe depending on your region in the UK, put your potted plants out in the late morning and bring them back indoors near sunset for a few days. Once the weather has warmed up significantly, you can shift your potted plants back outdoors.
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Alyssum Sown In Early Spring Should Germinate Quickly And Flower Later That Year
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare The Seed Trays 2) Sow Alyssum Seeds 3) Prick Out Seedlings 4) Harden Off & Plant Out In May Known as Alyssum or ‘Sweet Alyssum’, Lobularia maritima is an attractive flowering plant that is wonderful for growing in pots or at the front of beds or borders. It works well amid other ornamental flowers and can also be a good companion plant for a vegetable garden by providing ground cover and drawing in pollinators and predatory insects to aid in pest control. Fortunately, this is a plant which is very easy to grow from seed. This is a great plant for new gardeners and for growing with kids, with a simple process and relatively quick rewards. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed trays or pots, growing medium, unheated greenhouse or cold frame Alyssum is best sown inside in late February or March. To grow Alyssum from seed: Fill seed trays with a peat-free seed-starting compost. Sow Alyssum seeds indoors in early spring. Prick out and pot on your seedlings, allowing them enough space to properly establish. Harden off and plant out your Alyssum in May. Read on for a slightly more in-depth outline of this simple gardening job. 1) Prepare The Seed Trays Fill seed trays with a peat-free, seed-starting compost that is moist but free draining. You can purchase a seed-starting compost or make your own, but make sure that it is adequately aerated and light. Ensure that the seed trays have been cleaned thoroughly to reduce the chances of fungal issues taking hold. 2) Sow Alyssum Seeds Sow seeds on the surface of the tray and cover over very lightly with a thin layer of compost. Water the seedlings using a sprinkler rose on your watering can to avoid washing away the seeds. Place the trays in a light, bright location on a sunny windowsill and wait for germination to take place. Your seeds should germinate within 1-2 weeks at the most. Gardening expert Dan Ori shares that as the seeds are tiny, he likes to sow Alyssum in damp compost, covering it with a thin layer of vermiculite instead of compost. When he waters, he waters from below using a tray allowing the compost to soak up what it needs. 3) Prick Out Seedlings Prick out the seedlings when they are about 2cm tall and place them into individual pots in another covered seed bed around 5cm apart. 4) Harden Off & Plant Out In May Harden off and plant out the seedlings where they are to grow in the garden in May. Gradually move the plants for longer and longer periods to a cold frame or unheated greenhouse or polytunnel before moving them outdoors fully, to acclimatise them to the outdoor growing conditions. Plant out Alyssum in a spot with full sun in reasonably well-drained soil. Alyssum will make a good companion plant around the edges of a bed full of a range of spring vegetables. So, if you’ve never done it before, be sure to consider growing some of your own food a go at the same time as growing Alyssum from seed.
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Growing Armeria 'Sea Thrift' - This Plant Needs Near Zero Maintenance
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Armeria Armeria Care Common Types References Requiring virtually zero maintenance, Armeria is a tough evergreen that makes do with poor soil and tolerates salt-spray. Displaying foliage rather like brilliant green grass, this prepossessing little plant produces masses of pompom-like flower heads in gorgeous hues for up to three months in the summer. Armerias are justly prized for being impervious to salty air and sea spray and are also rightly valued for being perfect for rockeries and ground cover. However, when those are the lenses through which you see Armerias, you may forget that they are also charming, decorative, flowering evergreens that are terrific in a wide planter or as companion plants. They can also be planted into odd nooks, crevices and holes in walls, as long as they get full sun. Overview Botanical Name Armeria Common Name(s) Sea Thrift / Sea Pink / Cliff Rose Plant Type Perennial Native Area South America and the British Isles Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small, cup-shaped flowers held in dense, pompom-like clusters in shades of pink, purple, red and white When To Plant May to June The numerous species in Genus Armeria are native to the entire temperate Northern Hemisphere, the Mediterranean and South America.1 Armeria maritima is native to the British Isles and is a fairly common sight on sea cliffs and other coastal areas.2 Armeria foliage is nothing if not grass-like. Out of season, the plant appears to be slowly-spreading clumps and hummocks of wild grass of a light, bright shade of green – but during the blooming season, it is coated with dense, pompom-like flower heads composed of tiny little flowers, rising well above the foliage. Many of the flowers are nectar-rich, further enhancing your garden by attracting swarms of butterflies and bees. How To Grow Armeria Although you can certainly start Armeria seeds in pots for later transplanting, these steps are superfluous because this plant lends itself to direct sowing. Armeria seeds may be sown in the open ground after the soil has warmed up sometime in spring up until early summer, as well as in autumn, avoiding the warmest and coldest periods of the year. Dampen the soil first. Then, seeds should be nudged by a finger into the soil or placed on the ground and thinly sprinkled over with soil. Keep the sowing area continuously moist until the seeds germinate. Armeria plants should eventually be spaced by about one-half the spread of the variety or by about 20cm for a fuller look. Preferred Aspect These tough plants have no preference as to aspect or exposure whatsoever. All they need is a position in full sun. Soil Requirements & Planting The more nutrient-rich and fertile the soil, the more poorly Armerias will perform. Dense and poorly-draining soils will also not work out. Provide a loose, gritty, gravelly, sandy loam which will drain very well. Armerias may be purposed almost anywhere and used in nooks, rockeries, beds, and holes in walls. Simply transplant this tough plant in late spring to autumn and water it in. Armeria Care Armeria are virtually zero-care plants. They cannot tolerate full shade, poor drainage or overly-rich soil, but these one-time requirements do not fall under ongoing care. Just plant them in full sun in the right type of soil and they’re all set. Watering & Fertilising Armerias are ideal for forgetful gardeners as they require little water. Water young plants regularly but conservatively by merely dampening the ground. In many regions of the UK, mature Armeria plants’ low water needs will be met by rain. However, you should water during prolonged dry spells and periods of hot weather. Armeria do not need to be fertilised and improper feeding may do more harm than good. If you wish to fertilise them, do so once in spring with a pinch of succulents fertiliser or a mix of banana peel and wood ash. Sprinkle or work into the ground away from the roots and water it in. Pruning & Deadheading Another plus point for these no-care plants is that they do not need to be pruned. It is not necessary to deadhead Armerias, but it is you can do so if you want to trigger fresh blooms. Using a pair of scissors or mini-secateurs, snip off the faded flower head’s stalk as close to the ground as possible. I find it easy and efficient to hook the back or lower blade around the stalk, partially close the blades, slide it down the stalk and then snip. This way, there’s no danger of cutting anything you don’t want to cut. Common Problems As long as sea thrifts are positioned in full sun in open ground, these evergreens are virtually disease-free and pest-resistant! The most frequent problems that may arise would be traceable to human error, such as poorly-draining soils and overwatering. “You will normally find Armeria on sale in garden centres from April and these will be found with the herbaceous perennials or in the alpine plant section,” shares Horticulturist Dan Ori. “This is a big clue to Armeria’s preferred growing conditions and where best to plant, as it will thrive in a rockery and well-drained conditions.” Common Types Armeria maritima is the species plant that is native to the UK. It grows to about 15cm tall and the hues of its flowers are on the pink to purple spectrum, typically a bright tone of magenta. Two of its cultivars include: A. maritima ‘Alba’ Bearing pure white flowers, this cultivar has a height of about 20cm and a spread of 30cm. A. maritima ‘Splendens’ Growing to about 20cm with a slightly greater spread, its flowers are of a rich, vibrant, pink hue. And finally – not a native but an import from Spain that has been awarded the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit: Armeria caespitosa This mat-forming species grows to merely a few centimetres tall but spreads to about 30cm. It bears soft, pastel pink flowers at nearly the same level as the grass-like leaves. References 1. Armeria (DC.) Willd. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved August 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30024238-2 2. Thrift (Genus Armeria). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved August 2, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/60479-Armeria
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12 Amazing Aloe Varieties Chosen For Your Home By Elizabeth Waddington
IN THIS GUIDE 1) A. arborescens ‘Variegata’ 2) A. bakeri 3) A. brevifolia 4) A. descoingsii 5) A. haworthioides 6) A. ‘Lizard Lips’ 7) A. polyphylla 8) A. rauhii ‘Snowflake’ 9) A. somaliensis 10) A. striatula 11) A. variegata 12) A. vera Aloes are popular sculptural succulent houseplants that are easy to grow in containers and are prized for the appearance of their spiral rosettes of succulent leaves. Aloes are typically grown as houseplants in the UK, but hardiness varies and some can be placed outside in a suitable spot – at least during the warmer part of the year. They are easy to grow in containers using a cactus compost or another good quality peat-free mix – with sharp sand or grit added to improve the drainage. You cannot go too far wrong when growing any Aloe if you provide it with free-draining, frost-free conditions and ensure that the surroundings are not too humid. The best-known is perhaps Aloe vera, which is grown not only for its visual appeal but also for its various uses in natural produce, but there are plenty of others to consider. Here are some interesting and highly regarded Aloe varieties to grow. 1) A. arborescens ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): variegated candelabra aloe HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: yellow and green FLOWERS: red This perennial forms rosettes of succulent, toothed, sword-like leaves that are mid-green, and striped with a pale yellow. Occasionally, this plant also produces red, tubular flowers held erect in terminal racemes. 2) A. bakeri COMMON NAME(S): baker aloe HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: white and green FLOWERS: orange and red Also known as ‘Baker Aloe’, this perennial succulent grows to around 20cm tall, forming mats of dark green rosettes made up of narrow leaves which are speckled with white. The plant also sometimes boasts reddish-orange racemes of flowers. 3) A. brevifolia COMMON NAME(S): short-leaved aloe HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: green, silver and grey FLOWERS: red Short-leaved aloe is the common name for this variety – it is a mat-forming perennial succulent. It forms rosettes of spreading, toothed, triangular leaves and its 4cm flowers are red and are also carried in racemes above these rosettes of leaves. 4) A. descoingsii COMMON NAME(S): descoings aloe HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: white and green FLOWERS: orange Descoings aloe is a mini variety that forms low clumps of just 6cm. It has greyish-green succulent leaves with toothed margins and white speckles. When placed on a sunny windowsill, it can produce a flower stalk in spring and summer and bear urn-shaped flowers of a dark orange hue. 5) A. haworthioides COMMON NAME(S): haworthia-leaved aloe HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: green FLOWERS: orange Haworthia-leaved aloe is small but fast-growing. It reaches around 10cm in height with its rosettes of succulent leaves, which are dark green, lanceolate and covered with soft, white, hair-like spines. In addition to this, its flowering stems, with their tubular orange flowers in late summer, can reach around 30cm tall. 6) A. ‘Lizard Lips’ COMMON NAME(S): aloe ‘lizard lips’ HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: green, cream and white FLOWERS: orange Growing to around 15cm tall and 20cm in diameter, this aloe forms rosettes of tapered leaves in green, with interesting patterns in lighter green and creamy white edges with little white teeth. Tall spikes form in the summer, bearing tubular orange flowers. 7) A. polyphylla COMMON NAME(S): many-leaved aloe HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: green Known as the many-leaved aloe, this option is prized for its spiral form. The fleshy leaves form a pronounced spiral pattern. They have white or pale green spines along the edges and single brown spines at their upper tips. The flowers which appear on a branching spike in spring are typically red with greenish-yellow tips but can vary in hue. 8) A. rauhii ‘Snowflake’ COMMON NAME(S): snowflake HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: green and brown FLOWERS: pink and red This rather rare succulent is stemless and evergreen. It forms rosettes of lanceolate leaves with a grey-green hue that have lighter green patterns upon them and little white teeth along their sides. The leaves are sometimes flushed brown when exposed to strong direct sun. The flowers, borne in summer on 30cm high stalks, are of a pinkish-red colour. 9) A. somaliensis COMMON NAME(S): Somalian aloe HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: green and white (variegated) FLOWERS: pink and red Somalian Aloe has attractive variegated leaves like the above, which are green with lighter green patterning and light green to white teeth along the edges of each one. In the late summer, this aloe sends up spikes that can be 60-80cm in height, bearing tubular flowers in pale pink to red hues. 10) A. striatula COMMON NAME(S): striped-stemmed aloe HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: green FLOWERS: yellow Known as stripe-stemmed aloe, this evergreen succulent has scrambling, bushy stems that, as the name suggests, are striped with light and dark green. The leaf sheaths are also striped in the same way. Dramatic racemes of vivid yellow flowers with orange stems protruding from them form on spikes around 40cm tall in the summer months. 11) A. variegata COMMON NAME(S): partridge-breasted aloe HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: green and white (variegated) FLOWERS: red and orange Also known as partridge-breasted aloe, Aloe variegata is a familiar houseplant to some. It grows around 20cm tall, forming rosettes of its stiff, fleshy, dark-green leaves that are banded distinctively with broadly horizontal white stripes. Racemes of flowers form in the summer, which are salmon-red in colour. “This is my favourite Aloe as it’s robust and revives well from over and under-watering, as well as possessing an attractive variegation that looks painted on by a fine brush,” explains Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. 12) A. vera COMMON NAME(S): Barbados aloe HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: green FLOWERS: green and yellow Last but certainly not least, the most common Aloe of all is Aloe vera, also known to some as Barbados Aloe. It can grow up to around 60cm tall, forming rosettes of fleshy, lance-shaped leaves with spiny edges. The flowers when these form are greenish-yellow and are around 3cm in length. These are held above the leaf rosettes in racemes that can reach around 90cm in height. There are plenty of other Aloes and related succulents to grow, but in the list above, you should find some ideas with which you can expand your houseplant collection.
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Consider This Before Planting Invasive Acaena As An Alpine Ground Cover Option
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Acaena Acaena Care References Acaena offers several species of ground cover plants native to parts of the Southern Hemisphere, that are often grown between paving in a path or patio – or in a rock or gravel garden. However, it is important to note that these plants can be invasive in some areas, so think carefully before you decide to grow them in your garden, as sometimes it may be best to consider native ground cover options. Overview Botanical Name Acaena Common Name(s) Bidibid, Piripiri, New Zealand Bur Plant Type Perennial subshrub Native Area Mostly New Zealand, Australia and South America Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Tiny, carried in dense rounded heads or spikes, followed by fruiting heads like burrs When To Plant May to September Acaena is a genus of evergreen herbaceous perennials and subshrubs in the Rosaceae plant family.1 According to Kew, there are 56 accepted species within this genus, most of which are native to New Zealand, Australia and South America. Common Varieties Varieties commonly grown in the UK include: A. microphylla A. intermis ‘Purpurea’ A. buchananii A. saccaticupula ‘Blue Haze’ A. affinis How To Grow Acaena Acaenas are very easy to grow – so much so that you may not have difficulty in growing them successfully but rather in curtailing their growth. If you would like to grow this plant, it will be important to choose the right location. Remember that given their invasiveness, you should not grow these in conditions where they might easily escape into the wild. In fact, in some areas of the UK it is an offence to purposefully plant Acaena in the wild.2 Light & Temperature One thing to remember is that these are plants that will typically thrive in a position in full sun, though many species and cultivars also cope well with light, dappled shade, especially in warmer areas. These plants have a hardiness rating of H4-H5 depending on the specific species and variety. Many can cope with a British winter but some may need a little protection in colder parts of the UK. Soil Requirements This is a plant that absolutely needs good drainage. The soil must be free-draining and not retain water or become waterlogged at any time. However, as long as the drainage is excellent, this plant can cope with a range of different soil types and ph levels. Poor soil is tolerated very well by these plants. Gardening expert Dan Ori suggests: “Acaena can be a good plant for a hanging basket in slightly shaded conditions due to its robust nature and attractive leaves.” Acaena Care Acaena is certainly a type of plant that thrives on neglect. It can cope without any human intervention and has, in recent years, spread to the wild through seed and garden waste where it thrives on its own without any care, colonising a number of habitats and threatening to outcompete native plants. For this reason, we need to be very careful how we grow it in our gardens. Watering & Feeding When it comes to watering and feeding, you can take a minimalist approach. You will likely have to water Acaena only during the most prolonged dry spells in summer, and will not have to feed these plants at all, as they can cope with low-fertility conditions very well. Cutting Back The most important job when growing Acaena in an area where they may be invasive is collecting the seed to prevent its spread, which you should do in the early autumn. The stems also root freely, so you should pull them out to restrict the spread of the plants. Propagation The easiest way to propagate Acaena is by dividing mature plants in the early spring. You can also sow the seeds you have collected in the autumn or spring. Common Problems These plants are not really troubled in UK gardens by any pests or diseases – the only thing they are much troubled by are overly damp and waterlogged conditions. Remember, Acaena are non-native plants that can become invasive. They are easy to grow, but should only be grown with caution in areas where they may spread to the wild and pose a risk to our native habitats. References 1. Acaena Mutis ex L. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved August 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001386-2 2. Pirri-pirri bur. (n.d.). Invasive Species Ireland. Retrieved August 23, 2023, from https://invasivespeciesireland.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/NIEA-ID-Guide-Acaena-spp.-1.pdf
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