Growing
Rooting Plantlets From Stolons - Here's How To Propagate Spider Plants Effectively
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Stolons? 1) Rooting Plantlets From Stolons Rooting In Water Rooting In A Pot 2) Layering 3) Dividing 4) Growing From Seed If there is an indoor plant that can be described as stylish, it is the spider plant – with its ribbony foliage, slim lines and cool tones. If you have a spider plant in your home and would like one for your office or vice versa, these cooperative plants make that very convenient for you. Propagating spider plants from the stolons they produce, which are the long, cord-like runners that can be seen hanging off these plants, can be done in two ways. These two methods, described underneath, are the ones I would recommend and are arguably the most straightforward ways to propagate spider plants. However, two additional methods are also described, to make four possible ways to propagate Chlorophytum: Rooting plantlets from stolons – detaching spiderettes from runners emerging from the pot. Layering – taking runners from an existing plant and growing spiderettes in a pot alongside the mother Chlorophytum. Dividing – splitting the rhizome of a congested plant into multiple separate plants. Growing from seed – starting from scratch by sowing collected or store-bought seeds. Each of these methods is explained comprehensively underneath. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, mini secateurs When To Propagate Anytime (so long as the conditions are met) What Are Stolons? As potted spider plants mature and grow, they become root bound. After the roots grow into the pot and touch its inner sides, they start to curl and curve round inside the pot. After a spider plant becomes root bound in this way, it will start developing runners, also known as stolons. Stolons are long tendrils on which the plant will initially grow short-lived but pretty little flowers. These white, six-petalled flowers have a star-like shape. After the flowers are gone, closer to the ends of the stolons, baby spider plants, plantlets or spiderettes will form that are miniature replicas of the parent plant. It is these spiderettes that can be rooted so as to form a brand-new spider plant. Sometimes spiderettes start to develop air roots, which, though they may be quite small, are very distinct. These rootlets make propagation even more of a breeze. 1) Rooting Plantlets From Stolons When you choose the plantlet that you wish to detach and root, keep in mind that the bigger they are, the greater the chances that they will survive. Choose the ones that look vigorous and well-coloured and reject those that are lax and appear washed out. With a pair of sanitised mini-secateurs, detach a spiderette from the stolon. Cut the spiderette right where it is attached to the stolon at its base, where a knotty nub or bud will be visible, making sure that you do not cut into the plantlet. You can cut off as many spiderettes as you like. If the stolon is undamaged, it will likely produce new plantlets, though for aesthetic reasons, you may wish to prune it. Rooting In Water These plantlets can then be rooted and thrive in a container of water. Even though spider plants are not aquatic plants as such, they will give a very good imitation of being one! Take a small jar with a narrow neck. If you try to use a regular jar, the plantlet’s foliage will likely flop back in it. You will need rainwater, chlorine-free bottled water or distilled water and should avoid using tap water. Fill the jar or flask with a small volume of water initially. Place the spiderette in the jar or flask so that it is partially supported by its foliage draping over the neck of the jar and support it as you continue to pour water from near the side. Do not get the foliage wet. The trick is to submerge the whitish base of the spiderette and, of course, the roots (if there are any) while leaving the foliage entirely above the water. Place the container in a warm spot where it gets ample indirect sunlight. An hour or so of filtered sunlight is fine, but direct sunlight should be avoided. Change the water about once a week or earlier if it appears less than clear. Rooting In A Pot Take a 9cm pot or a 13cm one that has drainage holes. The smaller size is more suitable, but the plant will soon outgrow that pot. Likewise, you can use either a seed-starting or regular potting mix to root spider plant plantlets. If the spiderette has no rootlets, simply make a shallow and narrow hole in the medium with a dibbler or your gloved finger. The depth of the hole should correspond with the size of the white base of the plantlet. If the spiderette has rootlets, scoop up a little bit of the medium to make a hole in which the rootlets can nestle. Set the plantlet in the medium, keeping the green foliage entirely above the soil. Gently firm up the medium all around the spiderette. You may have to dampen and mound it around the plantlet to ensure it stays upright. Place the pot in a warm spot where it gets ample indirect sunlight and water the new plant regularly so as to keep the medium moist. 2) Layering Layering is nature’s way of propagating spider plants and it too has to do with spiderettes. When there are multiple spiderettes hanging off a stolon and you want to layer more than one, it can be quite fiddly. The advantages of this method include a higher success rate and strongly-rooted new plants. To layer plantlets, use a pot or planter of the appropriate size that has drainage holes at the base. Prepare the appropriate number of pots or the planter with a potting mix. Dampen the medium, then make shallow holes in the pots or planter. The depth and width of the holes should correspond to the size of the nub and white base of each plantlet and any rootlets it may have. Place the pots or planter by the side of the mother plant. Stretching out the stolon as necessary, gently push each plantlet into a hole and firm up the damp soil around it so that only its whitish base and any rootlets are in the soil. You may need to mound the soil around the base of one or another plantlet and provide support if necessary. Water the new plants regularly. After a couple of weeks, the stolon can be cut off with sterilised mini-secateurs. Snip it close to each new plant but do not risk cutting into the plant. Let a couple of centimetres of the stolon stay attached to each plant on either or both sides. 3) Dividing As spider plants are rhizomatous, clump-forming perennials, they are amenable to propagation by division. However, division is not typically undertaken as a method of propagation, but rather, if and when a spider plant gets congested, it is divided to clean it up. Propagation then becomes a happy side-effect! If a spider plant has visible clumps and is becoming congested, prepare the appropriate number of pots with potting soil and dampen it. Water the plant well and then prise up the soil ball from the pot. Allow the soil to fall off and gently brush it away to partially expose the roots. Separate the different clumps and disentangle what you can, starting from the crown. Next, from the midpoint between every two clumps, cleanly slice downward through the roots with a sharp knife. Whatever cannot be disentangled may cleanly be sliced through, but do not pull it apart. Re-pot the clumps without undue delay into the prepared pots and water in the new plants. 4) Growing From Seed Spider plants can be grown from seed, which is a less commonly-used method for propagating these indoor charmers. Seeds may be collected or store-bought, but either way, they should be sown within a couple of months, as they do not remain viable for very long. They may be sown any time of the year provided that the pots are kept in a warm spot indoors where they get ample indirect light. It is advisable for the pots to have drainage holes and you can use seed-starting or potting mix. Nudge seeds into a depth of 1-1.5cm, cover loosely with the medium and then dampen. Thereafter, keep the medium constantly moist, but not soaked. Seeds should germinate in approximately a fortnight. Plant expert Dan Ori gives us one last tip for a healthy young plant: “Although not critically needed, I like to keep the humidity up with young Chlorophytum for the best leaf quality. I grow them in my shower room as it gets lots of non-direct light, but you could grow them in any warm light room and mist them with water once a day for the same effect.”
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Blighted By Slugs? Dan Ori Suggests These Plants Are Generally Resistant
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Ajuga reptans 2) Alchemilla mollis 3) Allium 4) Aquilegia vulgaris 5) Astilbe 6) Astrantia major 7) Borago officinalis 8) Campanula 9) Cichorium endivia 10) Symphytum officinale 11) Cyclamen hederifolium 12) Digitalis purpurea 13) Erigeron karvinskianus 14) Euphorbia 15) Ferns 16) Fuchsia 17) Geranium 18) Hellebore 19) Heuchera 20) Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris 21) Anemone japonica 22) Lavandula angustifolia 23) Tropaeolum majus 24) Penstemon 25) Pulmonaria 26) Salvia rosmarinus 27) Saxifraga × urbium 28) Sedum 29) Sempervivum 30) Stachys byzantina References Slugs can be a real pain for some gardeners, especially those that live in areas with a lot of precipitation. However, even where slugs are found prolifically, it is possible to have a beautiful and productive garden. The first thing to remember when gardening and coping with slugs and snails is that we do want some of these creatures in our gardens. No matter how much of a pest they may seem, they are still an important part of the food chain and crucial to the local ecology. If we have some slugs around, then you should also have some of the creatures that eat slugs, which will keep their numbers down. So, the best way to deal with a slug problem in an organic garden is to welcome in as much wildlife as possible – to boost biodiversity and also attract the predators that help to keep the local slug population under control, so they don’t munch their way through your precious plants. However, in most organic gardens where slugs are found, you will have an odd problem here or there with these pests. Fortunately, there are plenty of plants that slugs will not find appetizing at all, which will be perfectly safe with these creatures around. I tend to find that most trees, shrubs and grasses will not be troubled by slugs at all, but when it comes to herbaceous plants, you may need to be more selective. Here are thirty plants that, in my experience, slugs won’t eat (or are far less likely to munch on) that you might consider for your garden: 1) Ajuga reptans COMMON NAME(S): bugle HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: blue SUNLIGHT: part shade A great plant for shade, Bugle has robust foliage that won’t typically be favoured by slugs, as well as attractive flowering spikes that bloom from late spring to mid-summer. It will work well on the ground as ground cover or even in containers where slugs may have been a problem. 2) Alchemilla mollis COMMON NAME(S): lady’s mantle HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade / full shade Lady’s Mantle, as this plant is commonly known, can be a good, low-maintenance choice for a range of settings. It makes wonderful ground cover in sun or shade and is generally another option that is untroubled by slugs. Gardening expert Dan Ori shares that this subtle but attractive plant will thrive in a wide range of growing conditions: “I find Alchemilla particularly useful as an alternative to Hosta which are often decimated by slugs.” 3) Allium COMMON NAME(S): ornamental onion HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: purple SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Alliums in flower beds or in a vegetable patch also tend to be avoided by slugs in a garden. Their strong taste and pungent smell discourages these garden pests where other more palatable plants are available. “Although there has not been extensive study into slug reactions to Alliums, our best understanding is that the sulfuric compounds in Alliums are unpalatable to them,” explains Dan. Therefore, ringing a bed with onions or garlic can help to keep slugs and a number of other pests out of a vegetable garden. 4) Aquilegia vulgaris COMMON NAME(S): common columbine HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: blue and purple SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Aquilegia is a shade-tolerant option that will not tend to be bothered by slugs, so could be a good choice for naturalistic planting in dappled shade. Another good thing about Aquilegia is that it self-seeds readily. 5) Astilbe COMMON NAME(S): astilbe HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink, white and purple SUNLIGHT: part shade / full sun The vibrant plumes of Astilbes really brighten up a shady spot and, fortunately, the slugs that might also congregate in such shady areas will not tend to go near them. These dramatic plants add height to growing areas and are typically largely hassle-free when grown in the right location. 6) Astrantia major COMMON NAME(S): greater masterwort HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: green, pink and white SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Another great plant to position under trees in a moist soil, Astrantia major is another plant commonly considered to be slug-proof. Their leaves are typically ignored by slugs, while their flowers attract plenty of bees and other pollinators. 7) Borago officinalis COMMON NAME(S): borage HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: blue SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Borage has furry foliage that can fortunately be off-putting to slugs. Therefore, plant Borage in your vegetable garden and it may help to deter slugs from damaging the tastier, more tender young vegetable crops beyond. Borage can also be useful in an ornamental bed and it is edible as well as beautiful. 8) Campanula COMMON NAME(S): bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H5-H7 FOLIAGE: varies FLOWERS: blue, purple, pink and white SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Campanula are another slug-safe plant to consider. There are both annuals and perennials in this genus, some growing very tall and others great for ground cover, so you may well find several varieties that slugs won’t eat that are suited to your garden and your design needs. 9) Cichorium endivia COMMON NAME(S): endive HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: blue SUNLIGHT: full sun An edible that produces tasty green leaves, this plant is best grown in full sun and is typically avoided by slugs and snails. 10) Symphytum officinale COMMON NAME(S): common comfrey HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: cream, yellow, pink and purple SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This is a plant I grow extensively for making homemade fertiliser. I find that Comfrey may occasionally have a little slug damage but most commonly, this is another plant that slugs will tend to avoid in favour of more tender-leaved plants. It can be useful in a garden in many different ways and can also be used as a mulch or liquid feed material. 11) Cyclamen hederifolium COMMON NAME(S): ivy-leaved cyclamen HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink SUNLIGHT: part shade These hardy cyclamen flowers in the early spring and in the late autumn when there is little else in bloom. They are another excellent choice, even for slug-infested zones underneath trees or shrubs or in a shady garden border. 12) Digitalis purpurea COMMON NAME(S): common foxglove HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: purple SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Foxgloves are not only unpalatable for slugs, but can actually be toxic to them.1Wong, J. (2018, June 10). Outwit your slugs: choose the plants they hate. The Guardian. Retrieved June 9, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/jun/10/outwit-your-slugs-choose-the-plants-they-hate Slugs will avoid eating the leaves – so any foxgloves, even in a slug-infested garden, will usually be entirely safe. 13) Erigeron karvinskianus COMMON NAME(S): Mexican fleabane HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen FLOWERS: pink, purple and white SUNLIGHT: full sun With daisy-like blooms, Mexican Fleabanes make great ground cover plants and are usually avoided by pesky slugs. 14) Euphorbia COMMON NAME(S): spurge HARDINESS RATING: varies FOLIAGE: varies FLOWERS: varies SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade / full shade Euphorbias are not eaten by slugs, as they exude a milky sap that seems to be unpalatable to slugs.2Keep Away From Spurge Sap. (n.d.). Poison Control. Retrieved June 9, 2023, from https://www.poison.org/articles/keep-away-from-spurge-sap-222 There are a huge range of different Euphorbias that you might consider growing in your garden. 15) Ferns COMMON NAME(S): fern HARDINESS RATING: varies FOLIAGE: mainly evergreen SUNLIGHT: part shade / full shade Many ferns, of course, love shady and moist environments where slugs will also thrive. Fortunately, ferns will typically not be bothered by slugs or snails at all and can be excellent low-maintenance choices for the right spot. 16) Fuchsia COMMON NAME(S): fuchsia HARDINESS RATING: varies FOLIAGE: deciduous or semi-evergreen FLOWERS: varies SUNLIGHT: full sun or part shade Large or small, Fuchsias are another plant unpalatable to slugs. There are, of course, different fuchsias to choose from, some hardier and some tender, but I find that all of them tend to be more or less ignored by these slimy pests. 17) Geranium COMMON NAME(S): cranesbill HARDINESS RATING: H6-H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: varies SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Hardy geraniums, also known as Cranesbills, are another type of flowering plant that slugs will tend to avoid. And, since these can be such hardy and reliable plants, there will definitely be at least one variety to suit your particular garden conditions. Planting these as ground cover below and around susceptible plants can often help to keep them safe. 18) Hellebore COMMON NAME(S): Christmas rose HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen or deciduous FLOWERS: varies SUNLIGHT: varies There are many different Hellebores that you might consider growing in your garden for blooms over the winter months. Helleborus x hybridus with its large, leathery leaves, is one choice that will not typically be bothered by slugs. 19) Heuchera COMMON NAME(S): coral bells HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: varies SUNLIGHT: full sun Also known as Coral Bells, Heucheras are practically slug-proof. These foliage plants can be wonderfully attractive throughout the year and many also have attractive flowering spikes in the summer. 20) Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris COMMON NAME(S): climbing hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white SUNLIGHT: full sun / full shade / part shade This Climbing Hydrangea is a great choice for covering a wall or fence – with the added benefit that it is also pretty much slug-proof and will not be eaten. Other woody Hydrangeas are also on the longer list of many shrubs largely offputting to slugs. 21) Anemone japonica COMMON NAME(S): Japanese anemone HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink and white SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade There are a number of Japanese Anemones that can make a good choice for ground cover – though they can be invasive in some soils and conditions, in which cases they may be best grown in containers. 22) Lavandula angustifolia COMMON NAME(S): English lavender HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: purple and blue SUNLIGHT: full sun Like other shrubby, Mediterranean herbs, Lavender is not usually bothered by slugs or snails. Both the woody growth habit and the oily, strong-tasting leaves make it one they will avoid. So, this is a great choice if you have a suitable sunny and free-draining spot in which to grow it, either in containers or in the ground. 23) Tropaeolum majus COMMON NAME(S): nasturtium HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: orange, red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun Nasturtiums make a great companion plant for a vegetable garden for a range of reasons, and one of those reasons is that slugs tend to avoid eating the peppery leaves, meaning that they are left for us to enjoy eating ourselves. 24) Penstemon COMMON NAME(S): Penstemon HARDINESS RATING: H3-H4 FOLIAGE: varies FLOWERS: varies SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Penstemons are wonderfully attractive foxglove-like flowers that can look great in many different beds and borders. They are a staple of cottage gardens and while they’re very attractive to bumblebees, they will not attract slugs and should typically remain safe from their predations. 25) Pulmonaria COMMON NAME(S): lungwort HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white, pink and blue SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade With their thick and hairy leaves, Pulmonaria tends not to be bothered by slugs either. The adaptation of the leaves means that you can usually get away with growing these even where there are a lot of slugs around. 26) Salvia rosmarinus COMMON NAME(S): rosemary HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: blue, purple and white SUNLIGHT: full sun Another herb for your Mediterranean herb garden, rosemary is another practically bullet-proof plant that should help keep slugs away. As long as you provide it with deep soil, free-draining conditions and enough sun, it should be an easy and relatively low-maintenance plant to grow. 27) Saxifraga × urbium COMMON NAME(S): London pride HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: pink and white SUNLIGHT: full shade / part shade This is a plant that slugs won’t tend to eat that can be planted to create ground cover around more vulnerable plants. While protection definitely won’t be 100%, this should help at least to a degree with a mollusc problem. 28) Sedum COMMON NAME(S): stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: varies FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: varies SUNLIGHT: full sun Sedums are one of a number of succulents that are also untroubled by slugs. The large, swollen leaves of succulents are not ones that slugs will want to eat, so they will leave them alone. 29) Sempervivum COMMON NAME(S): houseleek HARDINESS RATING: H5-H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: pink and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun Sempervivums might also be grown in some gardens and are another type of succulent that slugs won’t eat. So, where you have suitable growing conditions, growing succulents is another direction that you can take. 30) Stachys byzantina COMMON NAME(S): lamb’s ear HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: purple SUNLIGHT: full sun Also known as Lamb’s Ear, this tactile plant, with its fuzzy or woolly leaves, is a great choice for dry, gravel gardens, rockeries or other free-draining settings. Wool carder bees use the hairs from the leaves to make their soft nesting chambers, but these same hairs keep slugs and snails away. References 1. Wong, J. (2018, June 10). Outwit your slugs: choose the plants they hate. The Guardian. Retrieved June 9, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/jun/10/outwit-your-slugs-choose-the-plants-they-hate 2. Keep Away From Spurge Sap. (n.d.). Poison Control. Retrieved June 9, 2023, from https://www.poison.org/articles/keep-away-from-spurge-sap-222
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Plant These 19 Fantastic Flowers In September Says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Common Daisy 2) Crocus 3) Thomson’s Aster 4) California Poppy 5) Wild Daffodil 6) Common Chamomile 7) Hyacinth ‘Delft Blue’ 8) Heart’s Ease 9) Sicilian Honey Garlic 10) Crown Daisy 11) Ludlow’s Tree Peony 12) Orpine 13) Common Marigold 14) False Bishop’s Weed 15) Love-In-A-Mist 16) Cornflower 17) Wishbone Flower 18) Garden Forget-Me-Not 19) Red-Hot Poker The beginning of autumn is a great time for planting out spring-flowering bulbs before the first frosts arrive. It is also a time when plants can be started out indoors for a head start in the following year’s growing season. And with summer warmth often extending in September in recent years, planting out at this time can often be a great excuse to make the most of your garden in the relative warmth, before a colder climate sets in to close out the year. The good news is that there are still many flowering plants you can introduce at this time of year – whether you are looking for immediate blooms or those that will arrive in the new year. 1) Common Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Bellis perennis HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white, pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer For a burst of white and pink blooms in the spring and autumn, September is a great time to plant your daisies. Bellis perennis is a fully hardy, easy-to-grow perennial that looks best when planted with other wildflowers in a meadow garden scheme. When planted out, they will require little to no maintenance, making them a great choice for gardeners with less time to tend to their flowers after planting. 2) Crocus BOTANICAL NAME: crocus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial bulb FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring Crocus is a popular perennial bulb that can suit a variety of garden displays, such as rock or gravel gardens, beds or borders or container displays. There are lots of varieties of crocus that are suitable for planting in September, but ‘Snow Bunting’ is definitely one of my favourites, as its milky-white flowers make for a beautiful display when they bloom in spring. Make sure you plant your crocus bulbs in a spot where they will receive plenty of sun! 3) Thomson’s Aster BOTANICAL NAME: Aster thomsonii HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Thomson’s aster is a stunning cultivar that can be planted out in September from seeds sown in spring for immediate autumn flowering. Once planted, it will produce beautiful purple or blue flowers with frilly, narrow petals and creamy pink centres on tall stems every summer. Asters are a great plant for bees and other pollinators and would therefore make an excellent addition to a wildlife garden. 4) California Poppy BOTANICAL NAME: Eschscholzia californica HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Commonly grown as an annual here in the UK, the Californian poppy is often planted in spring, but will actually produce bigger, more impressive blooms when grown from September – although it might be trickier. If sowing California poppies in the autumn, it is best to do so in pots indoors, as this is a frost-tender plant that might not grow well from seed if sown straight into the ground over winter. However, if grown correctly, you will be rewarded with beautiful blooms come spring that will make the whole process worth the effort! 5) Wild Daffodil BOTANICAL NAME: Narcissus pseudonarcissus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial bulb FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Daffodils are popular spring-flowering bulbs that are ideal for planting in September. You can grow daffodils in flower beds or containers and they work great when planted alongside other spring-flowering bulbs in a lasagne bulb scheme. These perennials are easy to grow and ideal for novice gardeners or for those who prefer planting low-maintenance displays. 6) Common Chamomile BOTANICAL NAME: Anthemis nobilis HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial herb FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Another plant that can also be sown in spring, chamomile is also suitable for autumn planting for flowers that will appear the following summer. These daisy-like perennials look great in cottage garden displays or when used as ground cover in flower beds or borders. 7) Hyacinth ‘Delft Blue’ BOTANICAL NAME: Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: bulb / perennial FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring For winter blooms that can last well into late spring, ‘Delft Blue’ bulbs can be planted out directly into the ground in September. These half-hardy perennials will need some help over winter, so I’d recommend placing a thin layer of mulch over the soil after planting. Plant hyacinths in flower beds or borders or in container displays with other perennial bulbs. 8) Heart’s Ease BOTANICAL NAME: Viola tricolor HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial / biennial FLOWERS: cream, purple and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn A garden favourite, ‘Heart’s Ease’ is great for autumn planting. These plants are easy to care for and will look great in a variety of places in your garden displays. I like planting my Violas in a small rock garden with other dainty perennials for a lovely burst of colour. “If you are looking for a plant to grow in containers or hanging baskets that will transition you from summer into winter, there is no better plant than a Viola in my opinion,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “Just keep pinching off any spent flowers and you will easily have blooms from September to March.” 9) Sicilian Honey Garlic BOTANICAL NAME: Nectaroscordum siculum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial bulb FLOWERS: cream, pink and green FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer No doubt my favourite bulbous plant on this list, Sicilian Honey Garlic should be planted in September for flowers the following summer. With beautiful bell-shaped flowers growing from tall stems in the summer that reach up to 1.5m in height, this is definitely a bulb worth planting in your garden. Nectaroscordum siculum works well in a perennial border or meadow planting scheme as it is very low-maintenance and requires little care once planted out. 10) Crown Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Chrysanthemum coronarium HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Crown Daisy is a unique annual that is usually planted in September for blooms in the spring and summer months. To guarantee its survival over the winter months I would advise growing it indoors until the following spring. It produces lovely daisy-like flowers that usually come in shades of yellow and the stems they grow from can reach up to 1m in height. Suitable for a range of garden displays, make sure that you plant this flower in a site where it will receive lots of sun. 11) Ludlow’s Tree Peony BOTANICAL NAME: Paeonia ludlowii HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Ludlow’s Tree Peony is a medium-sized shrub that produces frilly yellow flowers in the spring. Best planted in September, this shrub looks great in flower beds and borders and can be used to underplant larger shrubs for a bushy finish. The lovely sunny flowers can also be harvested and used for cut flower displays in your home. 12) Orpine BOTANICAL NAME: Sedum telephium HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Producing flowers the following summer that last until the first frosts in autumn, Sedum telephium, also known as ‘Orpine’, should be planted in September in a site that receives a lot of sun. This plant is extremely easy to grow and can be used in a variety of garden schemes, but I think it works best in flower beds with other flowering perennial plants. 13) Common Marigold BOTANICAL NAME: Calendula officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: annual / biennial FLOWERS: orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Grown as an annual or biennial, the common marigold bears beautiful orange flowers that resemble daisies. Like many of the plants on this list, when planted in September, it will produce flowers the following summer and autumn. Marigolds look great when planted in container displays with other annuals and are commonly used as a trap companion plant. 14) False Bishop’s Weed BOTANICAL NAME: Ammi majus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Ammi majus, or ‘False Bishop’s Weed’, is commonplace in many UK gardens, which is no doubt in part thanks to the ease of its cultivation. When sown in September, Ammi majus will flower the following June, producing beautiful umbels of creamy-white flowers. 15) Love-In-A-Mist BOTANICAL NAME: Nigella damascena HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A frost-tender annual, ‘Love-In-A-Mist’ can be planted in September but will need to be cared for carefully so as to avoid damage to the seedlings during the cooler months of the year. However, I think the wonderful frilly blue flowers are worth the effort, as you will be rewarded with lots of fascinating-looking flowers in the summertime. 16) Cornflower BOTANICAL NAME: Centaurea cyanus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Another blue-flowering annual, Cornflowers are best planted in autumn for flowers that last from spring well into summer. Make sure that the spot you choose for planting gets plenty of sun, as Cornflowers don’t grow as well in the shade. Great for wildflower meadows and herbaceous borders, the flowers and their long stems can also be cut and used for indoor displays. 17) Wishbone Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Torenia fournieri HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: purple, yellow, pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn Wishbone Flowers are unique annuals that flower from spring through to autumn when planted out in September. Their trumpet-shaped blooms are often curled at the edges, which stand out against their light green foliage. They are great for bees and butterflies and come in a range of colours from dark purples to pure white. 18) Garden Forget-Me-Not BOTANICAL NAME: Myosotis sylvatica HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: spring / summer FLOWERING SEASON(S): blue A cottage garden classic, Forget-Me-Nots are perennials that are planted in September for tiny flowers that appear as soon as spring. The beautiful star-shaped blue blooms grow in masses and bring a lovely colour to garden displays. This perennial is also beloved by pollinators – so why not give it a try if you’re looking for an easy-to-care-for plant that will help the wildlife in your area? 19) Red-Hot Poker BOTANICAL NAME: Kniphofia uvaria HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: orange and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn To finish this list I had to pick one of the most dramatic flowering perennials. Kniphofia uvaria, more commonly referred to as the ‘Red Hot Poker Plant’, can be planted in autumn in full sun for long-lasting, odd-shaped blooms that start the following summer. If you’re looking for a plant that will add a serious amount of colour to your displays, then this is most definitely the one for you.
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Planting Any Of These 13 Native Hedging Plants Can Be A HUGE Boost To Local Wildlife
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Common Hawthorn 2) Blackthorn 3) Common Alder 4) Common Beech 5) Hazel 6) Common Holly 7) Bird Cherry 8) Common Gorse 9) Common Dogwood 10) Common Hornbeam 11) Dog Rose 12) Crab Apple 13) Common Yew What About Box? References Native plant species are renowned as an important source of food and shelter for local wildlife. This includes birds and pollinators, which have developed alongside native species for thousands of years in the UK’s unique climate.1 They each have common properties which lend themselves to benefitting the local environment: A propensity to flower and/or produce edible fruit for wildlife (such as berries) A tendency to grow to a large size – offering shelter to birds, insects and other wildlife Their longevity – most are fully hardy perennials that will offer benefits year-after-year For these reasons, planting native shrubs is, in my opinion, one of the most beneficial changes gardeners can make for their local environment. Here are thirteen of my favourite hedging shrubs, each with its own special properties, that are all native to the UK – 1) Common Hawthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Crataegus monogyna HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: cream and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring If an all-rounder award is given to a British hedging shrub, Hawthorn probably gets the nod. It is so dense and thorny that it makes a top security barrier. Next, it attracts and supports numerous species of birds, butterflies and bees, bringing joy to your garden. During spring, Hawthorns are bedecked with charming creamy-pink blossoms which are even sweetly scented, whilst in autumn, glossy red berries and orange-golden leaves add further colour. “If I could only choose one native hedging plant then I would opt for Hawthorn,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “A good dense hedge but also with attractive flowers in early summer and berries in autumn. It’s very popular with pollinators and birds, they hum with life.” 2) Blackthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus spinosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Blackthorn’s dense growth and spiny stems make it another excellent choice for a security barrier. Although it has other merits, the most attractive thing about it is the stunning explosion of white blossom it displays early in the spring before the foliage has emerged. These pretty white flowers draw numerous bees and butterflies as well. Over summer and autumn, Blackthorn is adorned with deep blue berries and these too bring in their own share of birds and small wildlife to your garden. 3) Common Alder BOTANICAL NAME: Alnus glutinosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: brown FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Alder hedging can tolerate poor and waterlogged soil, so it is heaven-sent for those who are struggling to grow a hedge in their neck of the woods. Its foliage, consisting of brilliant green rounded leaves, is a refuge for small birds, moths and a variety of insect life. Alder hedging provides a rustic sort of decor that changes with the seasons. Purple-brown buds, dangling catkins and small cones, all in one hedge! 4) Common Beech BOTANICAL NAME: Fagus sylvatica HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: green FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Beech is commonly thought of as a tall tree, which it is, but it is also grown as a hedge. After autumn, this shrub holds on to its dead russet foliage so tightly that it stays put clear into spring. Spring is also when the loveliest of leaves emerge that are elliptic to oval with symmetric veins as if embossed and of a delicate, summery, light green hue. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 5) Hazel BOTANICAL NAME: Corylus avellana HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring In spring, Hazel displays delightful foliage made up of light and bright green, crinkly leaves, rounded with wavy margins. Darkening as the seasons progress, in mid-autumn they adopt tones of yellow and orange. Also in autumn, the hedge bears nuts for you to snack on in winter – if you can beat the squirrels to them! It is in that bleak midwinter that this hedge produces furry yellow catkins, taking them into spring. 6) Common Holly BOTANICAL NAME: Ilex aquifolium HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer This hedge is adorned with pretty little white flowers over spring and summer. As for those familiar glossy deep green leaves, toothed and spiny, they are present all year round. Across autumn and winter, you’ll get those equally familiar spanking red berries. Cut off a cluster with some foliage to bring in some Christmas cheer! Another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 7) Bird Cherry BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus padus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Featuring intensely green foliage, Bird Cherry also features intense whites and blacks! By mid-spring, this hedge is loaded with an abundance of small intensely white flowers from which waft a delicious nutty scent. Then, in late summer, the blossoms transform into purplish berries which turn intensely black. Those flowers pull in pollinators, whilst the berries draw in birds and mammals. 8) Common Gorse BOTANICAL NAME: Ulex europaeus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring Evergreen and flaunting thorns and spines as foliage, diminutive Gorse is at least an impenetrable security barrier. Also, it grows well in virtually any type of soil, including poor soil and in coastal regions. It is much appreciated for its small pea-like flowers; these are bright mustard-yellow and release an unusual and distinctive coconut-like scent. These start in late winter and continue into early summer. 9) Common Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus sanguinea HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Clusters of pretty white flowers emerge in late spring and last into summer, bringing many a colourful butterfly to your Dogwood hedge. And, when these transform into black-coloured berries in autumn, you’ll see even more birds, including robins and thrushes. This is a deciduous hedge, but the height of colour interest comes in winter, as after the copper-orange leaves are shed, your Dogwood hedge will be a tangle of bare stems that glow blazing red! 10) Common Hornbeam BOTANICAL NAME: Carpinus betulus HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: green FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Heavy ridging and symmetric venation mark Hornbeam’s distinctive foliage. These serrated leaves are a shimmering yellowish-green and put an autumn show when they glow in yellow and copper shades. The greenish catkins span late spring to early autumn, and when they turn into fruit, they draw in an abundance of birds and small wildlife. Finally, deciduous Hornbeam doesn’t become bare – it hangs on to most of its leaves through winter! This shrub has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 11) Dog Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa canina HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A Dog Rose hedge will reward you with flowers that rival the blooms of some flowering plants. A good 5cm across, the salver-shaped flowers are gradated in white and pastel pink with a sunny centre. They have a mild scent and draw in many pollinators. The blooms are seen during most of the summer and are followed by decorative bright red rose hips, which attract an astonishing array of even more decorative and colourful birds. As ornamental hedging, Dog Rose is unbeatable. 12) Crab Apple BOTANICAL NAME: Malus sylvestris HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Crab Apple may not be thought of as a hedging shrub but it is, and what’s more, it is a dual-valued play. The nicely ovate leaves are a deep, gleaming tone of green. Over much of spring, this hedge adorns itself with innumerable light, delicate, pink-flushed blossoms, which is the decorative value. Then, in late autumn, as you admire the glowing orange foliage, Crab Apple hedging proves its utilitarian value; little tart apples to pick and make applesauce, pies and wine with! 13) Common Yew BOTANICAL NAME: Taxus baccata HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Way back when, an English country estate would not be considered complete without Yew hedging. The very narrow, almost needle-like, leaves are a saturated shade of green and grow very densely, causing the hedge as a whole to appear to be a dark green wall. Fairly easy to maintain and amenable to shaping, evergreen Yew makes a fantastic boundary wall, topiary or sculpture. An RHS Award of Garden Merit winner. What About Box? You might be wondering why a shrub synonymous with hedging did not make our cut. Box, or Buxus, is sadly being ravaged in the UK. Box blight and box tree caterpillar are the primary diseases that are devastating Box and outright killing these hedges, defeating gardeners’ valiant rearguard actions. Therefore, until horticulturists and manufacturers succeed in turning the tide, I cannot recommend Box. References 1. ‘UK native’ plants and fungi. (2022, June 28). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved July 6, 2023, from https://growwild.kew.org/blog/uk-native-plants-and-fungi
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Living Stones Plants Can Be Grown From Seed: Focus On Light And Warmth
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Find A Suitable Spot For Sowing 2) Prepare The Pots & Growing Medium 3) Sow The Seeds 4) Wait For Your Living Stones To Germinate 5) Water The Emerging Seedlings If you like succulents but don’t care for thorns, then Lithops is for you. This plant looks like a pair of little oval stones set close together; the colour is usually grey, brown or green, with some texturing or a single daub. It is no surprise then, that these plants are known as ‘Living Stones’. These plants have tiny seeds that are very much like coarse sand, so you will be sowing sand-like seeds in a sandy medium to grow small stones. You can enjoy the procedure of growing Lithops from seed by following these steps: Arrange the preliminaries for sowing, with a particular focus on getting the right temperature. Prepare the pots with well-draining, coarse soil. Sow the tiny Lithop seeds carefully, making sure they have enough light exposure to germinate properly. Wait for germination to occur – ensuring consistently moist conditions. Water the seedlings frequently before potting on the following summer. Each stage of this process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, seeds, pots, growing medium When To Sow April 1) Find A Suitable Spot For Sowing Just as some seeds need light to germinate and some need dark, Lithops seeds are fussy about the temperature they need to germinate, as well as the season. Most varieties of Lithops seeds need a temperature between 19-24°C to germinate and are best sown during April. Find a spot by a window where they will get ample indirect bright light for several hours, but no direct sunlight. Otherwise, set up grow lights or any artificial light of the appropriate intensity. 2) Prepare The Pots & Growing Medium It is difficult to sow Lithops seeds in a controlled manner as you usually would and that’s because they are so tiny. Therefore, it is the best option to sow them in pots. Use small 9cm pots with drainage holes at the base. Succulents are best started and rooted in very well-draining coarse soil that is not organically rich, and Lithops is no exception. 3) Sow The Seeds First, dampen the compost. To sow tiny seeds in a controlled manner, I take a stiff piece of cardboard and sprinkle seeds on it. Holding the cardboard stiffly in one hand and with a table knife in the other, carefully separate and push off seeds, scattering and spacing them over each pot. Lightly dab down so that the seeds are just lodged into the medium. Do not try to push the seeds in – they need light to germinate. Take as many clear polythene sheets of the appropriate size as you have pots. Make only two or three punctures in each sheet, and cover each pot to lock in humidity. Fasten the sheets around the edges of the pots; you could use rubber bands or clips. 4) Wait For Your Living Stones To Germinate Every morning remove the polythene sheet, spray the medium to moisten it well and replace the sheet. The medium should be kept continuously moist. Repeat this step until you see the seedlings sprout up. This may take anything from 4-20 days, depending on the species and conditions. 5) Water The Emerging Seedlings When you see seedlings in a pot, remove the polythene sheet. Continue keeping the medium moist as before for two to three months. Thereafter, reduce the frequency and volume of watering by dropping it down to every other day. As the plants grow, continue to reduce the frequency of watering while keeping the medium moist. “Lithops seeds respond to seasonal moisture to germinate but then enter a dry season, so try to avoid overwatering seedlings as this will cause them to rot,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. The following summer the new, maturing living stones may be potted on. When potting on, you may use a somewhat more nutrient-rich compost and then start to feed the plants.
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6 Ways To Prevent Onions From Bolting - Watch Out For Hot Weather
IN THIS GUIDE Why Do Onions Bolt? 1) Avoid Planting Certain Onion Sets 2) Plant In The Correct Timeframe 3) Plant Bolt-Resistant Varieties 4) Fertilise Your Onions 5) Water During Hot & Dry Weather 6) Protect From Cold Snaps What If My Onion Has Already Bolted? Bolting is the term used to refer to a vegetable prematurely going to seed by sending up a flower stalk. When an onion bolts, I find that the bulb will not develop properly, will stay undersized and may even split. Such an onion, if harvested, will not store as well as a fully-developed one and is more prone to rotting. So, there are some really good reasons to prevent onions from bolting. Why Do Onions Bolt? The primary stressors are hot, dry summers and out-of-season cold snaps. Some choices made by the gardener can also turn some factors into stressors. For example, the choice of onion variety or fertiliser. Underneath, I lay out some precautionary choices you can take to try to minimise the chances of your onions bolting and I also recommend a couple of rapid-response measures to minimise the impact of environmental stressors. 1) Avoid Planting Certain Onion Sets Onions are typically grown from sets, which are actually first-year onion bulbs. For this very reason, they are much more likely to bolt than onions germinated from seed. Unfortunately, it is less convenient to grow onions from seed, which is typically a two-year process. To greatly reduce the chances of bolting, do not plant (regular) onion sets. A very good compromise is to obtain and plant heat-treated sets which seldom bolt. 2) Plant In The Correct Timeframe Plant sets about four weeks before the last expected frost, which is usually sometime during March or April, depending on your location in the UK. Planting too early or too late increases the chances of bolting. 3) Plant Bolt-Resistant Varieties White and yellow onions bolt much less frequently than red onion varieties. A few varieties are resistant to bolting, while a few have been bred specially to resist bolting. You should be able to find the following in the UK: ‘Stuttgarter’ ‘Sturon’ ‘F1 Santero’ ‘Walla Walla’ None of these is a red onion or a short-day type, so they tick all the boxes. 4) Fertilise Your Onions Feed set-grown onions once or twice early in the season, but do not feed them after the bulbs have developed. Also, do not use a balanced or high-potash formula. Use a high-nitrogen, low-potash formula. 5) Water During Hot & Dry Weather If you are experiencing very hot days, do not let the soil stay dry – and try to shield the plant from heat. At the very onset of unseasonable heat take the following steps: Water frequently so that the soil does not stay dry for any length of time. Water with cool water by mid-morning. Lay a shallow but dense layer of mulch to conserve moisture. “Watch out for spells of prolonged hot weather,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Short spells of hot weather will benefit your bulbs but keep an eye on the top inch of soil and when it becomes dry, it is time to water.” However, keep in mind that after the bulbs have formed, these root veggies should be watered conservatively, as overwatering can cause the bulbs to start rotting, even as they are developing. 6) Protect From Cold Snaps If you are expecting a cold snap or suddenly find yourself in one, shield the onion plants from the cold. Do so even if a cold snap arrives early in the season. At sundown, put horticultural fleece or a simple natural-fibre blanket on the ground over the onion plants. After sunrise, when sunlight is falling over the planted area and the soil is warming up, remove the fleece. Do not remove it earlier; allow the soil to warm up. During an extreme weather event or if the days are overcast, you might need to keep the plants covered. What If My Onion Has Already Bolted? Finally, what can you do if your onion has already bolted? If the stalk with the bud is on its way up or has already flowered you will have to forget about consuming the onion, but you should look forward to collecting onion seeds! However, if the stalk is only just shooting up, then the onion is salvageable. Cut the stalk off at its base. Promptly dig up the onion and, as you should not try to store it, use it for pickling.
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23 Exotic And Unusual Plants To Consider Growing In Your Greenhouse
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Bougainvillea 2) Kumquat 3) Night-Blooming Jasmine 4) Citrus reticulata ‘Kinnow’ 5) Arabian Jasmine 6) Many-Flowered Jasmine 7) Frangipani 8) Yellow Sage 9) Orange Clock Vine 10) Blue Trumpet Vine 11) Chinese Hibiscus 12) Pineapple 13) Tomato 14) Red-Hot Cat’s Tail 15) Pseuderanthemum carruthersii 16) Sensitive Plant 17) Glory Tree 18) Blue Vine 19) Golden Dewdrop 20) Melon ‘Galia’ 21) Cucamelon 22) Egyptian Water Lily 23) Green Ebony Tree You can use your greenhouse to grow the most beautiful and exotic plants that are far too tender to grow in the UK without one. Before we proceed further on this thought, a word to the wise. Simply putting tender plants inside a greenhouse is no guarantee of success, as tropical and sub-tropical plants have their own diverse requirements when it comes to soil, sun, shade, watering and humidity. Therefore, I strongly advise you to choose a few plants and then educate yourself on how to go about growing those. My aim with this list is to introduce you to fantastic plants, many of them exotic, that you may have heard or read about, and, I hope, a few that are entirely new to you. None of them have a hardiness rating any greater than H2 and all are tropical or sub-tropical in origin, requiring a greenhouse to grow with a high degree of success, to ensure proper flowering and a reasonable lifespan. 1) Bougainvillea HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: evergeen FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A large climber, this plant does not need any special care once it gets of the ground except, of course, protection from low temperatures. Established shrubs are even drought-resistant. In a hobbyist greenhouse, grow it in a very large container and it will produce those brilliantly coloured bracts year round. 2) Kumquat BOTANICAL NAME(S): Citrus kinokuni / Fortunella margarita HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer FRUITING SEASON(S): summer / autumn These small citrusy fruits are rather like oranges but about the size of a large berry and, like berries but unlike oranges, they are not peeled – but they taste more like oranges than berries! You can grow this little tree in a pot or in open ground. Either way, you’ll get pretty sweetly-scented flowers and tangy-sweet fruit for several months of the year. This is an RHS AGM winner. 3) Night-Blooming Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Cestrum nocturnum HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: green, cream and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / winter FRUITING SEASON(S): autumn Although this is a sprawling, much-branched shrub that can grow to over 3m, Night-Blooming Jasmine grows easily in pots. You’ll be charmed to see its little flowers open at twilight and last until daybreak. They are small, pure white and trumpet-like, making quite a contrast with the flappy leaves. These tiny little flowers have a wonderfully sweet, heady perfume. 4) Citrus reticulata ‘Kinnow’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring FRUITING SEASON(S): autumn / winter / spring An orange similar to Mandarins, the ‘Kinnow’ fruit is deliciously tangy with a touch of sweetness. This cultivar is prolific and bears very fragrant white blossoms and produces copious amounts of vibrant orange fruit for most of the year. If your greenhouse is large enough, root it in open ground. 5) Arabian Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Jasminum sambac HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer An evergreen shrub that makes a tidy bush, Arabian Jasmine also produces flowers that open in the evening and last for but a night. The little pure white blooms are borne in profusion and they are so fragrant that the air is scented to a few feet from the bush. A recipient of the RHS AGM. 6) Many-Flowered Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Jasminum polyanthum HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring If planted in a big pot, Many-Flowered Jasmine will happily adopt the habit of a sprawling bush, showing off its deep green compound leaves. It deserves its name because in blooming season, this plant simply covers itself in tubular star-shaped white flowers borne in big clusters. The flowers have a sweet fragrance and are in bloom from late winter onward. Another winner of the RHS AGM. 7) Frangipani BOTANICAL NAME: Plumeria rubra HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: yellow and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn A naturally even and fine-branched small tree with a ringed and knobbly type of quasi-bark, Frangipani has deep green oblong leaves that are observably turgid. It produces very many salver-shaped, sometimes bowl-shaped, 8cm flowers with 5 overlapping petals. They are white with a yellow blaze or in shades of pink and exude a sweet fragrance. An RHS AGM recipient. 8) Yellow Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Lantana camara HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn A very woody shrub, often awkwardly-branched, Lantana camara has deep green rough-textured foliage that has a bracing, fresh, clove-musk scent. Its flowers are in the form of semi-rounded terminal clusters with numerous florets. As each cluster displays many tones of a single colour in shades of white, almond, and cream, the effect is delightfully unique. 9) Orange Clock Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Thunbergia gregorii HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Orange Clock Vine is an evergreen twining vine. Its foliage is of an intense brilliant green shade. All through summer it produces copious numbers of salver-shaped flowers up to 4cm wide. They are of a unique orange colour; a light yet saturated amber-orange tone. In view of this plant’s agreeable dimensions, it is easily grown in a large pot. Another RHS AGM recipient. 10) Blue Trumpet Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Thunbergia grandiflora HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A strong evergreen climber, Bengal Clock Vine has many twining stems. The semi-cordate leaves are a brilliant shade of green and in the summer, the plant produces a profusion of flowers. These exotic blooms are not so much trumpet-shaped as bowl-shaped and are seen in hues ranging from lilac through slate blue to purple, all with a yellow throat. This plant has received an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. 11) Chinese Hibiscus BOTANICAL NAME: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: orange, white, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer An evergreen with a bushy, tidy form, Chinese Hibiscus produces very large but delicate-looking flowers with ruffled and frilly petals and prominent stamens. Colours include red and magenta, but also pastel pink and mellow orange. Variegated cultivars are worth growing for the foliage alone. It is unevenly mottled and speckled in green, cream and white with pink bleeds. 12) Pineapple BOTANICAL NAME: Ananas comosus HARDINESS RATING: H1A FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: purple and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Bring a bit of Hawaii to your chilly corner in the Midlands by growing Pineapples. In a greenhouse, you can plant them in open ground where they’ll be larger than when grown in large pots. Another greenhouse bonus – no need to lug around big pots for overwintering! “In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, gardeners used dung and tanner bark to heat glasshouse beds to grow pineapples,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Today a greenhouse heater can save on labour but would still make your home-grown pineapple a costly endeavour!” This tangy-sweet fruit simply bursts with its unique rich flavour when whole and fresh, even more so when juiced. 13) Tomato BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum lycopersicum HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: evergeen FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer FRUITING SEASON(S): summer Of course, you can grow tomatoes as annuals in your garden, but if you have a greenhouse, you can grow this much-loved veggie (okay, fruit) how it grows in Central America – as a perennial. An optimal variety will produce copious fruit for several years. You could actually try several varieties and see which is the best-performing perennial. 14) Red-Hot Cat’s Tail BOTANICAL NAME: Acalypha hispida HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn / winter Acalypha hispida is a little woody shrub and its story has to begin with its foliage, for it has textbook leaves. They are medium in size and are best described as ovate-elliptic-acuminate, finely serrated and of a lush green shade. Up and down the plant range, its unusual flowers, which are curving, pendent, fuzzy, furry catkins of a vibrant red hue, are typically 15-25cm long. A recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 15) Pseuderanthemum carruthersii HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer From the South Pacific, Pseuderanthemum carruthersii is a good-sized evergreen shrub of open habit. It has brilliant light green ovate leaves which often display yellow marbled venation. It produces the prettiest of little blooms in terminal clusters. Somewhat like tiny propellers, the petals are often askew. They are snowy white with a magenta-maroon throat and medial freckles. 16) Sensitive Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Mimosa pudica HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Possibly the shyest member of the plant kingdom, this plant has bright green pinnate leaves. Depending on how you touch them, all the pinnate leaves close inward in unison or opposing pairs close in succession. The wispy flower is unique and attention-grabbing, as it is globular with radiating stiffish filaments. The colour ranges from pastel pink to light purple. This plant is a short-lived evergreen. 17) Glory Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Clerodendrum splendens HARDINESS RATING: H1B FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Clerodendrum splendens has a slender woody stem with many twining branches that can attain great heights, but the overall size can be controlled in a container. It has dark leaves that are ovate-to-rounded and somewhat wavy. In summer, it bursts into a spectacular bloom with countless little five-petalled flowers with long, curved stamens. The hue ranges from fiery orange to vivid scarlet. This plant has an RHS AGM. 18) Blue Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Clitoria ternatea HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Blue Vine is a scrambling type of evergreen that would work very well in a container. Its elliptic leaves are that perfect shade of leafy green. The habit of this plant gives it a semi-dense, cushiony look. Its beautiful flowers are laterally symmetric with a hood above and vary from purple to blue with a creamy centre. The petals exhibit a type of narrow parallel ribbing. 19) Golden Dewdrop BOTANICAL NAME: Duranta erecta HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A robust evergreen shrub with arcing stems and elliptic-ovate leaves of a soothing summery green, Duranta erecta grows very well in pots. Although its main blooming season is late spring and summer, it blooms on and off year round. The small flowers occur as drooping terminal clusters, sometimes thick and frothy. The tones range from a gentle lavender to deep violet, often with lighter edging. 20) Melon ‘Galia’ BOTANICAL NAME: Cucumis melo ‘Galia’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: deciduous FRUITING SEASON(S): summer Classed as a twining climber, ‘Galia’ is more like a trailing vine and will happily sprawl on the ground. Although it is difficult to grow in the UK, with a greenhouse you’re all set! It is worth noting that there are very many cultivars of Cucumis melo, but the one suggested has large round fruit with white flesh flushed yellowish-green and is very sweet and juicy. 21) Cucamelon BOTANICAL NAME: Melothria scabra HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer FRUITING SEASON(S): summer / autumn An interesting deciduous perennial that climbs with tendrils, Cucamelon is even more intriguing for its fruit. During summer, it produces little yellow flowers which start forming into fruit by late summer. These are oval to oblong with creamy spots on a green ground. Only about 4cm long, these succulent and tangy cucumber-like treats are perfect with martinis. 22) Egyptian Water Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Nymphaea lotus HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn If you can set up a little pool in your greenhouse, you could grow one of the rarest flowers in UK gardens: Lotus. Its foliage floats on the water and these lily pads are crinkly, circular and dark green. Conversely, the flowers are typically white with a central yellow bud with pink variants available. These bowl-shaped, star-like flowers which open at dusk, are huge and grow to be up to 20-25cm. 23) Green Ebony Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Jacaranda mimosifolia HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Though Jacaranda mimosifolia can easily grow to 15m tall, it can be grown in a large container and pruned for size. Its compound pinnate leaves are of a marvellous light, summery green shade. The sensuous 5cm wide trumpet-shaped flowers occur in thick panicles and come in numerous shades of blue, purple and violet.
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Pruning Quince Can Allow Sunlight In And Develop A Well-Formed Framework Of Branches
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Quince Pruning Newly Planted Quince Trees Maintenance Pruning Renovation Pruning On Older Quince Trees Quince trees, Cydonia oblonga, superficially resemble apple trees, and like apple trees, they come in a range of shapes and sizes to suit many UK gardens. They can be trained to grow in compact forms and there are even quince trees that can grow in pots. If you have a quince tree in your garden, you might wonder about one key element of its care – pruning. Pruning quince is a fairly straightforward process, but I would implore you to consider why you are pruning and what exactly you are trying to achieve. When To Prune Quince Quince trees should always be pruned sometime between late autumn and early spring while the tree is in its dormant period. Some may question whether quince needs to be pruned at all and this is certainly a valid question. Trees can remain happy and healthy for many years, often with no intervention with regards pruning. However, quince trees can sometimes benefit from pruning to ensure that they have a well-formed framework of branches – with an open shape that allows sunlight in to ripen the fruits. However, the degree to which a quince will be pruned depends on your goals and its stage of growth. Pruning Newly Planted Quince Trees When planting a new quince tree in your garden, you may wish to undertake some initial pruning in order to make sure that the tree takes the shape you desire. The ways in which you will undertake establishment pruning on a quince is the same as the establishment pruning that is often carried out on apple trees. To prune to form a standard or half-standard tree, the aim is to produce a goblet-shaped framework of branches atop a bare stretch of trunk at the base. You will prune out any branches that cross or which create overcrowded conditions in the centre of the crown of the tree and take back new growth to form a well-branched framework. Carrying out this formative pruning over the early years will mean that you do not need to prune quince anywhere near as much once it is fully established. Maintenance Pruning Once a quince tree has become established in your garden, the key is to prune as little as possible. Only minimal pruning should be required, as long as the tree is well-shaped and well-tended. Removing any material from the tree that is dead, damaged or diseased annually and thinning out any congested or unproductive branches is all you should need to do. One of the most important things to remember as you carry out any general maintenance pruning on a quince tree is that quinces are tip-bearers. This means that they mostly bear their fruits on the tips of shoots that formed during the previous year – so these should not be removed when pruning or much of the potential for fruit will be lost. Remember this when you’re pruning or you might lose most of the following year’s harvest. Renovation Pruning On Older Quince Trees If a quince tree is aged and long-neglected, more extensive renovation pruning may sometimes be required. Though we usually want to limit quince pruning as much as possible, over time a tree that is not pruned at all may have become very overgrown and congested. On such trees, it is possible to be a little harsher in how much you remove from the tree when pruning. However, you should still only remove up to a quarter of the oldest branches at any one time, carrying out the renovation required over a number of years if necessary. “One of the keys to good renovation pruning is to not remove too much in one year,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Hard pruning will result in strong fresh growth the following year whilst the desired result is more balanced reinvigoration.” As with younger trees, remember that your goal is still to create an open and balanced form for the tree, with a centre that lets in light for the developing fruits. Renovating an older tree that is not producing as much fruit can spur it back into production in subsequent years. Remember, most of the fruit is produced on the tips of branches which grew in the previous year.
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Learn To Grow Echinops ‘Globe Thistle’ For Both Loose And Orderly Planting Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Echinops Echinops Care Container Growing Common Varieties References The blue or white spherical flower heads of Echinops can bring a sense of the Mediterranean to a garden. Also known as ‘Globe Thistles’, these are plants that can fit in alongside many other Mediterranean plants in a sun-kissed part of a garden. Echinops grown in UK gardens are usually herbaceous perennials that will provide great value in a garden space over a number of years. Most have flowers held in circular heads with a purplish-blue hue, while some cultivars have white flowers. Overview Botanical Name Echinops Common Name(s) Globe Thistle Plant Type Perennial Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Spherical blue or white flowers When To Plant May to June Echinops largely come from Southeastern Europe, though their native range also spreads into Asia and some are also found in mountains of tropical Africa too.1 Their common name, ‘Globe Thistle’, comes from their spiny foliage, but though they are called globe thistles, they are not closely related to the true thistle species. The name Echinops comes from the Greek for a hedgehog.2 These plants are prized in gardens for their flowers and their stature. They pair well with a range of other common plants in cottage gardens, gravel gardens for low-water areas, wildlife gardens perfect for pollinators and plenty of other flower beds and borders. They are a good choice for loose, organic, prairie planting alongside other herbaceous perennials and ornamental grasses, but also work well in much more formal and orderly planting schemes. How To Grow Echinops Echinops is relatively easy to grow as long as you pay attention to its basic needs. When positioned and cared for correctly, this plant can certainly make for a great choice for a low-maintenance space. As perennials, they should remain in place and grow back each year over multiple years and these plants can also self-seed readily in a location where they are happy to grow. Sowing Echinops seeds should be sown in March or April. They can be sown indoors in pots or seed trays or in a well-prepared seedbed outside. You can also directly sow the seeds where they are to grow if the conditions are suitable in your garden. Some gardeners also sow in the autumn, but in my opinion, sowing in spring in the UK generally gives better results. If sowing indoors, transplant the Echinops to the garden after the last frosts where you live. Planting Above all else, when choosing a location in which to grow Echinops, remember that, though hardy, it comes from southern Europe and likes Mediterranean conditions. That means planting it in full sun or light shade will get the best results. There are not really particularly hard and fast rules when it comes to spacing Echinops, though generally seedlings are placed around 30cm apart. This may vary a little depending on which variety or variety of Echinops you have chosen to grow. Soil Requirements Echinops need moist but free-draining or free-draining soil and will do best in moderately poor soil which drains very freely. E. ‘Taplow Blue’ Make sure that you dig a generous planting hole for the plants you wish to place in your garden and where the soil is not as free draining, add grit to ensure that waterlogged conditions do not arise. Planting For Pollinators Grow Echinops in your garden and you will soon discover that they are surrounded by bees, butterflies and other pollinators throughout their flowering period. “Echinops are a great plant for pollinators,” states Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Regardless of the cultivar, they are always covered in a range of pollinating insects, persisting into early autumn in most parts of the UK.” These flowers are not native, but they do attract and provide pollen and nectar for a wide range of our native insect life. While it is always a great idea to include a high proportion of native flowers in your garden for the bees and other wildlife, mixing in some non-natives (including Echinops) is not a bad idea and can simply add to the biodiversity within the garden. Echinops Care Once established, Echinops growing in a location that provides the right growing conditions generally will not require a great deal of care. However, there are some key elements to consider. Watering One important element of care is watering. Echinops should be watered in well and watered during prolonged dry spells, especially as they become established. Once established, however, these are fairly drought-tolerant plants. In fact, they can cope much better with dry conditions than they can with overly wet situations, so take care not to overwater your plants. Cutting Back Another of the jobs to do when growing Echinops is to cut them back after the first blooms have faded. This is not only to tidy up the garden but also can sometimes encourage a further flush of blooms to develop. If the plant clumps become too congested, you can lift and divide them to propagate new plants and give the existing plant a new lease of life. Common Problems One of the most common problems when growing Echinops, which are generally trouble-free and not prone to many pests or diseases, is an aphid infestation. Aphids should be welcomed in an organic garden along with their predators who will keep their numbers in check and the ecosystem in balance. In a healthy, organic and biodiverse garden, aphids will rarely get out of control and won’t typically pose a major threat to your Echinops or to other plantings. In terms of environmental problems, poor drainage is perhaps the thing that most commonly derails successful Echinops growing. Making sure that there is adequate drainage in the ground or in containers is one of the most important things when growing these plants. Container Growing You can grow Echinops in pots and they can be good candidates for a container garden. Smaller, shorter cultivars might generally be considered better choices for pots but any cultivar should be fine either on their own or with other plants that similarly like sunny and free-draining conditions. When choosing a container, make sure that it is sturdy enough to stand up and not tip over when growing taller cultivars. A terracotta or clay pot can be ideal because it will not retain water as much as a plastic one. Make sure it allows water to drain out freely at the base so that waterlogging cannot occur. Fill your chosen container with a suitable peat-free growing medium with added grit or sand to improve drainage. A soil-based option is best for perennials that will remain in their pots over multiple years. Note that in pots, as in the garden, Echinops that are taller may require staking or some support, especially if they are grown in a somewhat windy location. Common Varieties Some common varieties of globe thistle to consider growing in your garden are: E. bannaticus E. exaltatus E. ritro E. sphaerocephalus References 1. Echinops ritro. (2021, August 4). Cambridge Botanic Garden. Retrieved July 5, 2023, from https://www.botanic.cam.ac.uk/the-garden/plant-list/echinops-ritro/ 2. All About Echinops. (2022, July 28). Retrieved July 5, 2023, from https://www.americanmeadows.com/perennials/unique-perennials/all-about-echinops
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