Growing
Megan Webb Shares How To Grow Trumpet Pitcher Plants: 'Sarracenia Like Wet Feet'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Popular Varieties How To Grow Trumpet Pitchers Sarracenia Care Guidelines References Trumpet pitchers are carnivorous plants commonly grown as a novelty far beyond their native range, including here in the British Isles. These plants are often grown as houseplants indoors in our climate, though there are Sarracenia plants hardy enough to be grown outdoors in a bog garden or a pot. Therefore, they might be grown in a sheltered outdoor location as well as inside your home. Even when they are grown indoors, these plants are often placed outdoors for a period in the summer. “My absolute favourite carnivorous plant to grow is the North American Pitcher Plant, Sarracenia,” shares Peter Walker, Owner of Wack’s Wicked Plants. “They come in so many shapes and sizes, from small and stocky, compact, to beautiful upright pitchers more than 4ft tall. “They come in any colour you can imagine, with brilliant markings, and are hardy plants that are so easy to grow.” Overview Botanical Name Sarracenia Common Name(s) Trumpet Pitcher Plant Type Carnivorous Native Area Canada and the US Hardiness Rating H2-H6 Foliage Varies Flowers Purple & five-petalled When To Plant May to June outdoors, anytime inside According to Kew Botanic Gardens, there are 11 different accepted species of trumpet pitcher within the Sarracenia genus.1 All are carnivorous plants which are native to areas of the eastern coast of the United States and southeastern Canada.2 Only one, Sarracenia purpurea, arises in cold-temperate climate areas. Sarracenias are herbaceous perennials which grow from a rhizome below the ground. They have many pitcher-shaped leaves that radiate out from the base, with traps at the top of the tubes, known as phyllodes. S. purpurea, unlike most other trumpet pitchers, typically has plenty of rainwater collected in the base. Popular Varieties Sarracenia purpurea is the most common trumpet pitcher to grow inside homes in the UK. S. purpurea This is called the common pitcher plant, which grows around 30cm tall. The green pitchers are flushed and veined with a deep purplish red, and there is a large lip at the top of each pitcher and an upright lid that is frilled around the edge. Five-petalled flowers bloom well above the pitchers in the spring – these are purple and around 5cm across. While this Sarracenia is the most commonly available, other species within this genus are also sometimes grown and there are also numerous hybrids grown in cultivation by carnivorous plant enthusiasts. For example, hybrids of S. purpurea and S. leucophylla are becoming more commonly available. S. leucophylla Sarracenia plants which have an RHS Award of Garden Merit to consider growing in the UK are: S. ‘Anna Carlisle’ S. ‘Colin Clayton’ S. ‘Dixie Lace’ S. ‘Jenny Helen’ S. ‘Juthatip Soper’ S. ‘Vogel’ S. x catesbaei ‘Birmingham Midnight’ S. x mitchelliana ‘Victoria Morley’ S. x moorei ‘Brooks’ Hybrid’ How To Grow Trumpet Pitchers Trumpet pitchers are considered to be relatively easy to grow as long as their basic needs are met. Growing From Seed Trumpet pitchers can be, and often are, grown from seed. Sarracenia hybrids are fertile and will hybridise further, which means that many carnivorous plant enthusiasts are drawn to collecting and sowing seeds in order to breed new cultivars with interesting variations. To collect seed from Sarracenia, hand pollination is generally required, as natural pollinators will not be able to pollinate the plants when they are growing indoors so far from their native range. Once pollination has taken place, seeds should develop and be produced in great numbers. To mimic the period of cold the seeds need to germinate in the wild, the seeds should be placed in a fridge and kept moist for 2-6 weeks, depending on which species is being grown. The seeds can then be placed on the surface of a suitable peat-free growing medium. The growing medium should be acidic, moist and low in nutrients to mimic the plant’s natural environment. The seeds should germinate in a warm, bright spot and will mature over the next 4-5 years. Preferred Environment In the wild, these plants grow in bogs and wetlands in acidic and largely infertile soil. Providing them with their preferred environment means mimicking the conditions that they would naturally have in the wild when growing them in cultivation. While many trumpet pitcher plants are tender and grown indoors, S. purpurea is H6 hardy and can potentially be grown outside in a suitable location. Soil Requirements Sarracenia needs an acidic soil or potting mix that is low in nutrients. It can be moist but well-drained or even poorly drained. Sarracenia Care Guidelines Caring for Sarracenias is largely a question of making sure that their environmental needs are met. Once their basic positioning is sorted, they are generally easy to care for and do not require huge amounts of care. Sunlight These plants can grow in full sun or partial shade, but will generally do best with some protection from the sun during the hottest part of the year, which can also help keep the soil moist. If grown indoors or under cover, they require a bright location out of direct sunlight. Watering Sarracenia plants generally need to be watered regularly to keep the growing medium consistently moist throughout the year. The medium should be kept moist to wet at all times. Ideally, these plants should be watered with rainwater or distilled, filtered water. “Sit them in full sun in a deep saucer filled with rainwater and keep the saucer topped up all growing season,” advises Peter. “They will crisp off in winter when we cut them down and reduce the watering.” Pruning Sarracenia do not require any pruning. Feeding Sarracenia plants can benefit from feeding while young (if grown from seed) with a balanced organic fertiliser. This speeds up their early growth and lessens the time to maturity. However, once mature they should not need additional feeding and will feed themselves on insect life. “An added benefit is that they keep insects off you in your house or even when you are just sitting outside,” adds Peter. Make sure that if you’re growing them indoors where there are no insects around, you place the plant outside for a few weeks in summer should allow it to catch enough insects to survive. Repotting You won’t have to repot Sarracenia regularly at all if you are growing in a container. You may think about repotting every 3 years or so, but less for space or nutrients and more to avoid the build-up of any minerals in the growing medium. Overwintering Where you keep Sarracenia over the winter months will very much depend on the species or hybrid cultivar you are growing. Sarracenia purpurea might remain outdoors for winter in a sheltered spot, but most will be moved indoors or undercover to a cool, frost-free place where they can have their period of winter dormancy before growth resumes in the spring. “Most Sarracenias require a winter dormancy where they are kept damp and are not stood in water,” says Peter. “The main winter issue is normally rotting due to overwatering.” Propagating If you do not have the patience to grow Sarracenia from seed, then you might consider dividing the rhizome of a mature plant in order to obtain new plants from an existing one. The best time to lift and divide Sarracenia is in early spring. Common Problems Environmental issues are the most likely to cause problems with a pitcher plant. For example, crispy pitchers might be caused by underwatering or by excessive hot and bright sun. If no pitchers develop in spring, lack of light could be the issue. A lack of light might also cause markings on the pitchers to fade and become less vibrant. These are just a few examples of the most common problems that are encountered when growing these plants. Pests like scale insects, aphids, mealybugs and moth caterpillars may sometimes also become an issue. References 1. Sarracenia Tourn. ex L. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved May 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30020496-2#children 2. Sarracenia. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved May 4, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/sarracenia/
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This Is How To Grow Sundews According To Experts Megan Webb And Nigel Hewitt-Cooper
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Popular Varieties How To Grow Drosera Drosera Plant Care Propagation References If you are interested in growing carnivorous plants, then Droseras should be among the plants on your hit list. This large group of insectivorous plants offer options that are very easy for beginners to grow as houseplants in their homes, as well as numerous more challenging options for those with some carnivorous plant experience. “Having grown many more of the species over the years than most, I have settled on the sundews as one of my favourite carnivorous plants to grow,” shares Nigel Hewitt-Cooper, Owner of the specialist plant nursery Hewitt-Cooper Carnivorous Plants. “The Droseras number over 300 species and demonstrate the most incredible environmental adaptations. “Because of this, they require a diverse selection of cultural conditions which have kept me on my toes all these years.” Overview Botanical Name Drosera Common Name(s) Sundews Plant Type Perennial carnivorous plant Native Area Broad distribution globally Hardiness Rating Varies Foliage Upright herbaceous plants forming tentacled rosettes Flowers Mostly small flowers held high in spikes above the leaves When To Plant Anytime indoors Droseras, which are commonly called sundews, are found with a wide global distribution, with species found in diverse locations from Alaska to New Zealand.1 There are some in temperate regions, in Eurasia and North America, though most species are found in warmer climes. Only three species are native to Europe.2 Sundews generally tend to grow in moist or consistently wet habitats with high levels of sunlight and acidic soils. Looking at where they naturally grow can give us clues about the conditions they need when we grow them as houseplants in our homes. In general, they like warmer climes and are only moderately frost-resistant. However, sundews are remarkable plants that have adapted to a wide variety of different environments. Popular Varieties “Like all horticultural groups, there are species that require a good degree of experience to succeed with, so it’s best to concentrate on the more commonly grown plants which are easier to grow,” shares Nigel. “The sundew species is one of the easier carnivorous plant species to grow.” The hardiest and least fussy of sundews tend to be those that are easiest to grow at home and these are also, conveniently, the most widely available. Some of the drosera varieties that you might think about growing in the UK are: D. aliciae D. anglica D. binata var. dichotoma D. capensis D. intermedia D. rotundifolia There are also other species, varieties and hybrids to explore if you become interested in growing these plants. How To Grow Drosera Different Drosera can have significantly different growing needs. Some sundews are remarkably easy and straightforward to grow, while others can be much more finicky and challenging. If you are looking for an easier option for beginners then the cape sundew, Latin name Drosera capensis, is considered to be the easiest carnivorous plant to cultivate. This Drosera can be grown as a houseplant and is native to the cape of South Africa.3 It is far less well-known than the Venus fly trap, but actually easier to grow. Growing From Seed Drosera seeds can be sown as soon as they are ripe. However, for the beginner, purchasing a pot-grown plant is by far the easiest option. Drosera are sometimes also propagated through the division of clumps after the plant has flowered, through leaf cuttings taken any time during the growing season or through root cuttings taken over the winter months during the dormant period. Drosera Plant Care Whichever Drosera you are growing, it is important to understand its environmental needs in order to work out where to place it and how to care for it. While most sundews are grown as houseplants, a few hardier temperate climate types can be grown outdoors in a suitable spot, usually in pond margins or a bog garden. For example, Drosera rotundifolia might be grown in a bog garden outdoors, as it is H5 hardy, or also as a houseplant or in a greenhouse. Though Drosera can differ somewhat in their needs, most of those commonly grown as houseplants do have similar needs and are cared for in similar ways. Light & Temperature Most Drossera that are hardy enough to be grown in a bog garden outdoors like to be in full sun or partial shade, as Nigel explains: “Most common species of CP are inhabitants of open bog land, and are therefore adapted to high light levels. “You can think of them as cacti with wet feet.” Indoors, sundews should generally be placed in a light and relatively bright location, but not in direct sunlight where they may be scorched by the hot sun in summer. When it comes to temperatures, it is important to remember that many species need heat, while others are a lot more tolerant of the cold. So, when working out how warm they will like it, it is important to think about the hardiness rating of the specific sundew in question. “For Drosera that needs heat to survive, it is important to remember that your windowsill can be several degrees colder than the room at night, so this may not be the best spot, particularly if it gets direct sunlight,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Watering Drosera typically needs to be kept in a consistently moist soil or potting mix year-round. It is important to make sure that moisture levels in the soil or growing medium are maintained at all times, especially during the summer months. When growing Drosera, always water with rainwater where possible and avoid using tap water where possible. It is best to water from below by standing pots in a tray of water during the growing season. In winter, when the plants enter a period of dormancy, the medium should be kept just moist and the plants should not be stood in a tray of water as they are when in active growth. “My top tip for success with Drosera is to concentrate on getting the watering right,” says Dan. “Keep moist but not waterlogged, water from underneath when possible and keep the soil pH in the acid range water with rainwater, as it is naturally acidic.” Soil Requirements Most Droseras need a moist to consistently wet soil or growing medium, which has an acidic pH. Though the needs of different species and cultivars can vary, remember that sundews typically come from marshy, wetland environments, so we are aiming to mimic those natural environments when growing these plants at home. Feeding You will typically not have to worry about feeding Drossera as they will typically feed themselves with small insects, trapping them on their own. Overwintering Many Drossera will require an indoor, frost-free location over the winter months, but some are hardy enough to remain outside in a bog garden. Sundews will typically enter a period of dormancy over the winter months, requiring less water than during the active growth period. “Sundews will typically require a cold winter,” says Nigel. “This may seem rather odd, as most people assume these plants are all inhabitants of tropical regions. “However, these are temperate plants that enjoy warm-hot summers and cold winters when they die back and enter a period of dormancy from around October ot February.” Common Problems Generally, Drosera is free from pest and disease problems, so any problems that do arise tend to be due to improper placement or care. Propagation Sundews can be propagated through division. Clumps can be divided after the plant has flowered in the summer and the divided sections can be repotted to become new independent plants. References 1. Sundews (Drosera). (2019, December 3). Carnivorous Plant Resource. Retrieved May 4, 2023, from https://carnivorousplantresource.com/the-plants/sundews/ 2. Drosera L. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved May 4, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144103463 3. McQuillan, M. (2008, February). Drosera capensis | PlantZAfrica. South African National Biodiversity Institute. Retrieved May 4, 2023, from http://pza.sanbi.org/drosera-capensis
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Only Use Rain Or Distilled Water With A Venus Fly Trap, Says Ten-Time RHS Gold Medalist
IN THIS GUIDE Controlling Humidity Container & Soil Requirements The Type Of Water To Use Watering Methods References That exotic and somewhat creepy insect-eating plant that exhibits a gaping mouth and what seem to be sharp teeth is native to none other than the US. Lest we deceive you, that gaping mouth is nothing more than a leaf that is hinged along the midrib, whilst those diabolical teeth are merely interlocking spines. However, try telling that to the flies that meet their ends inside this plant’s foliage! The hinged, toothed leaf plus the bait of nectar inside it combine to make the trap. This nominally carnivorous plant survives in the wild in only a sliver of coastal land in North and South Carolina.1 In this guide, we explain how to water these plants when growing them inside your home in a pot or other container. Note that we’ve collaborated especially with Nigel Hewitt-Cooper, the Owner of Hewitt-Cooper Carnivorous Plants and ten-time RHS Gold Medalist. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Rain or distilled water, watering can fitted with a rose When To Water Every 2-3 days in the warmer seasons, less frequently in winter Controlling Humidity The prime habitat of Dionaea muscipula, to call it by its botanical name, is damp, mossy, pine savannah which is sometimes boggy or marshy. As you may infer, it is a moisture and humidity-loving plant. These plants, which are hardy to only H3, are usually kept as houseplants in the UK. The air in most interiors is insufficiently humid for Venus fly traps and they may suffer as a result of the dry atmosphere. So if you have a humidifier going in the room where you may keep your Venus fly traps, this is more than ideal. Otherwise, be sure to fine-mist them every two or three days to keep them in tip-top fly-trapping shape. Indeed, even if these plants are kept outside during balmy weather, if you suspect that the atmosphere is on the dry side, lightly mist the plants. It will not hurt and can only help. If you mist, do so before noon, preferably in the mid-morning. Container & Soil Requirements Before we get to the nitty-gritty of watering Venus fly traps, it is important to look into the types of containers and soil you’re growing them in because, if the container or the soil is of the wrong kind, watering correctly will be of little value. The most suitable type of pot is a circular, squat, shallow type with multiple drainage holes. Pots made of natural stone are best for these sensitive plants. Venus fly traps thrive in soil that is damp and acidic but poor in nutrients for the obvious reason that these plants entice and grab their own food. With this in mind, do not use potting soil or ericaceous compost for the growing medium or any type of overly-rich, fertile soil. Procure a special potting mix for carnivorous plants made by a reputable manufacturer or make your own. The Type Of Water To Use The first rule of watering is that these plants require pure water: never use tap water. Venus fly traps react poorly to the chemicals found in tap water. “The mineral content of tap water is high enough to cause root burn, similarly to how too much chemical fertiliser can damage the roots of garden plants,” says Kevin Zhang from the Mid-Atlantic Carnivorous Plant Society. “If you can give a carnivorous plant mineral-free water, that’s 90% of the path to success.” “Use a water butt connected to a down pipe to store rainwater,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Even a small water butt will provide enough rain water for all your houseplant needs.” The best choice is rainwater, but if that is not available, you can use distilled water. “Keep wet with rainwater, as hard water, which flows from the taps of the majority in the UK, is poisonous to carnivorous plants,” shares Nigel Hewitt-Cooper, the owner of Hewitt-Cooper Carnivorous Plants. “Unless your water is soft, with a Parts per million (ppm) of under 50, rainwater must be used.” If you wish, you can always slightly acidify pH-neutral distilled water with a little hydrogen peroxide solution. Watering Methods The aim, except during the winter months, is to keep the medium in a continuously moist state by not letting it dry out completely. There are two ways to accomplish this. 1) Regular Watering The first way is by regular watering. Use a small watering can that is fitted with a rose so that the soil is not disturbed, especially as you will be watering frequently. It is better to water in lower volume but to do so often than to water deeply with prolonged gaps. How much and how often you water depends on the sun-shade mix the container is placed in and the weather. In general, making the soil moist once every two or three days is a good plan. However, if your container is sited in full sun and you are having a spell of hot, dry weather, you should be watering daily. Reduce both the volume and frequency during winter but be sure to keep watering, as this is an evergreen plant and needs water year-round. 2) Bottom Watering The second method is to place the pot in a tray of water with the water level coming up to about one-third of the way up the pot. This style of bottom moisture somewhat replicates the boggy, marshy conditions of these plants’ native habitat. The pot must have multiple drainage holes or even side slits for this method to work. Keep an eye on the water level of the tray and replenish it as needed and do not allow it to fall lower than a couple of centimetres. We suggest a ‘best-of-both-worlds’ practice. Water the plants with a watering can (as outlined above) for ten days and then place the pot in a tray for ten days, alternating between the two styles. This type of alternation will mimic the Venus fly trap’s native habitat’s conditions even better and will suit this moisture-loving plant entirely. References 1. Dionaea muscipula. (n.d.). U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Retrieved April 20, 2023, from https://www.fws.gov/species/venus-fly-trap-dionaea-muscipula
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Nepenthes ‘Pitcher Plant’ Care With Carnivorous Growers: Don't Neglect These Factors
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Nepenthes Pitcher Plant Care References Surely the runaway top choice for a plant to take a leading role in a hair-raising horror film is one of the monster-like pitcher plants. These true blue carnivores of the Plant Kingdom, over and above insects, relish even small birds and rats!1 In this guide, we’ve collaborated with some of the top experts on carnivorous plants and the Nepenthes genus, including Peter Walker, the Owner of Wack’s Wicked Plants. “I love the shapes, colours and variations of carnivorous plants,” Peter Walker shares. “The general look of them, their diversity, the trapping mechanism, how they function, how they evolved and their hardiness are all reasons why I’m so passionate about growing them.” Overview Botanical Name Nepenthes Common Name(s) Pitcher Plant, Monkey Cup Plant Type Perennial Native Area Belt of ocean-separated land stretching from Madagascar in the west and eastern Australia in the east, and spanning South-East Asia and the South China Seas Archipelago Hardiness Rating H1A-H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Insignificant flowers in small green-pink racemes From the steamy, tropical rainforests of Indonesia to the moist, cool highlands of the Philippines, this plant caused quite a stir in Europe a couple of centuries ago due to its ability to eat small mammals.2 What’s more, one or two of the biggest Nepenthes species, such as the recently-discovered Nepenthes attenboroughii and Nepenthes rajah, catch and consume rodents and even lizards.3 However, the majority of the species trap and digest insects small and large. Attracted by nectar, the insects fall into the pitcher, drown in the fluid and are digested by enzymes.4 A few of the larger Pitcher Plant species entice shrews or bats to feed or rest on (or inside) the pitcher. The faeces or guano excreted by these small mammals serves to feed these unusual species.5 Different species exhibit pitchers of somewhat different shapes and hues. Some species’ pitchers do indeed resemble pitchers – while others are more elongated – and some are even short and plump, appearing more jug-like. In many species, upper pitchers and lower pitchers on a plant are distinctly shaped. For the most part, pitchers are a little broader at the base and a little narrower at the neck; the clear majority of species have a lid on the pitcher. Pitchers are seen in a wonderful assortment of colour tones in greens, oranges, reds and browns. They are often gradated, bi-coloured, striped, speckled or blotched. The pitchers typically are held up by tendrils that descend from the tips of the leaves. According to data from Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, 179 Nepenthes species inhabit undisturbed wilderness in a belt of ocean-separated land stretching from Madagascar to Southeast Asia.6 All are fully tender evergreen perennials. Common Varieties “I love all carnivorous plants, but if I had to choose, I would say that I have a particular fondness for the tropical pitcher plants,” says Kevin. “There are numerous species and the pitcher morphology is extremely diverse. “Some pitchers are like dainty cups the size of a thimble, while others can hold a gallon of water and are capable of drowning rats. “Many of the pitchers also have vibrant colours and delicate patterns. “I especially love Nepenthes ampullaria and its hybrids, which have round, tubby pitchers that can carpet the ground. “Although some species of this genus can be hard to grow, requiring temperature drops at night and high humidity, a lot of the hybrids can be grown easily on a windowsill.” The aforementioned Attenborough’s pitcher plant is, unfortunately, critically endangered, as are nine other species.7 A limited number of varieties are available, though albeit not in the same way Begonias or Carnations are available at every corner garden centre. Speciality nurseries stock some varieties of Nepenthes, with Nepenthes alata being the easiest to find. This plant is often kept as a houseplant and can also be grown in hanging baskets. N. alata Its pitchers are 18-22cm high and show a range of tones in greens and reds, including intermingled green and red tones and flushes. Nepenthes hybrider ‘Blood Red’ and Nepenthes sanguinea hybrid are two other varieties that can relatively easily be sourced in the UK. ‘Blood Red’ has pitchers that are light green at the base and reddish in the upper two-thirds, progressively becoming dark red. Those of Nepenthes sanguinea are rather more of a dusky red hue. “I enjoy lowland Nepenthes because they are easy for me to grow in my region and they can get massive traps and come in a variety of colours,” shares Kenny. N. bicalcarata “My favourite species is Nepenthes bicalcarata which has two fangs which drip nectar, which makes it appear that the plant is salivating.” All three varieties’ pitchers have an elongated shape that is just slightly bulbous at the base. Not quite as easy to find but still possible to locate in the UK are RHS Award of Garden Merit winners ‘Rebecca Soper’, ‘Bill Bailey’ and Nepenthes × hookeriana. The first cultivar is especially vigorous and can reach 75cm. Its pitchers are 12-15cm long and are of a plum to brownish-red hue. N. ‘Rebecca Soper’ The second cultivar is also a vigorous one with pitchers that are about 10cm and are of a deep red to maroon hue with speckled interiors. The third one, a hybrid, is comparatively huge at nearly 3m tall and 70cm wide and is also a climbing vine and really needs to be rooted in open ground, for which reason British gardeners can only take a chance on it if they have a conservatory or greenhouse. Nepenthes x hookeriana Its pitchers are comparatively little at 10-11cm but they are really eye-catching, sporting deep red speckles and markings on the light green ground in greatly varying balances of red and green. Though Nepenthes ventricosa is hard to find, it is a relatively not-so-tender and vigorous species that is adaptable to temperate conditions. How To Grow Nepenthes Considering the sizeable number of Nepenthes species, the steadily increasing numbers of hybrids and cultivars and their somewhat different native habitats, it is not possible to provide one size fits all growing guidance. Also, quite a few species, including most of the lowland species, would be quite impossible to grow in British gardens. As such, our plant care guidelines relate to the varieties named in the previous section. In general, the highland species and their derivative hybrids and cultivars are possible to grow with some fuss and care in temperate climes, provided they are positioned correctly and the conditions are not very adverse. In the UK, Nepenthes may be grown as a houseplant, rooted in nutrient-poor loam. They may be kept outdoors during warm weather in a sheltered spot in attenuated sunlight. “If you want to grow Nepenthes outside in the summer months, you can plant up pots that can be moved in and out of glasshouse or conservatory,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. They need to be regularly watered except in winter, when watering should be reduced. Humidity is very important to Nepenthes’ health and in dry weather, it is wise to mist it regularly. The aforementioned varieties may be propagated via basal stem cuttings in February, except for Nepenthes × hookeriana, for which April to May is a more suitable timeframe. Pitcher Plant Care Our pitcher plant care guidelines are spelt out under factor-specific headings underneath. Light Exposure The best type of light for Nepenthes is ample sunlight, usually six hours or more, but it should be filtered, diffused or dappled, such as sunlight coming through a gauze curtain, through textured glass or through the foliage of a tree or a climber. In my opinion, textured glass is a terrific way to achieve the objective. It is easy, affordable and decorative. It is also adjustable, as textured glass is available in a choice of translucencies and thicknesses. In the absence of such kinds of indirect sunlight, a few hours of early morning sun followed by some bright shade will serve these plants’ needs quite well. Humidity & Temperature The pitcher plant varieties identified above will thrive in temperatures between 21-28°C during the day and 14-18°C during the night. Though the temperature may cross the upper limits it should really not fall below the lower limits. Nepenthes × hookeriana requires even warmer temperatures. All pitcher plants require more humid conditions than most other plants, so the dry atmosphere of most homes (or even conservatories) may be problematic. It would be best to run a humidifier for several hours every other day near where you keep your pitcher plants. A second option is religiously to mist these plants every day or two – it should be a very fine mist and should be done during mid-morning. Another very important factor is ventilation and air movement. A pitcher plant should not be put in a spot where the air is stale and where the air movement is impaired. It should be in a well-ventilated spot that has good airflow, such as near an open window. I find you can improve ventilation by running a small table fan at a slow speed for a few hours a day, placed 2-2.5m from the plants. Watering The first rule of watering relates to the kind of water. You should not use tap water for these plants, as the salts present in tap water are toxic to these exotics. For the same reason, bottled mineral water is also to be avoided. “The most common problems with these plants is that people use rainwater or forget to water frequently,” shares Peter. “They are bog plants and need to be kept wet constantly.” With Peter’s advice in mind, water in moderation but frequently. The soil must be kept continuously moist, but should never be waterlogged and certainly not dry. During winter, watering needs are somewhat reduced, but even then the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Water using a watering can that is fitted with a rose. If the plant is located indoors, keep an eye on the pitchers as they may well dry out. If any pitcher is even nearly empty, use a dropper to replenish it with water to about a third of its height. Soil Requirements Nepenthes require acidic, low-nutrient soil with very good drainage. They should not be grown in normal garden soil or any type of commercial compost. If you can find Nepenthes soil mix made by a reputable manufacturer, I’d suggest you use that. Otherwise make your own using equal parts of the three components listed below, with a choice of components in the first two sets: Peat moss, pine bark or fir bark. Coco coir or sphagnum moss. Perlite. Do not substitute a component in one set for that in another set. Another option is to get orchid potting mix. As for pots, the best type of material for these plants, what with their very particular requirements, is natural stone. Plastic pots will not breathe and may lock in dampness, considering how frequently these plants need to be watered, while clay pots may leach salts and ions which, over time, could lead to buildup that may be toxic for pitcher plants. Feeding You may need to feed Nepenthes, except not in the manner you would feed other plants, as they should not be fertilised at all. Out on the porch or even in the home, provided it is not hermetically sealed, pitcher plants will feed themselves by trapping the odd fly or other insects. It is definitely preferable for these plants to be located in a place which offers a fair number of insects, whether they’re flying, crawling or both. In a conservatory, these plants may be unwittingly put on a diet. In such a case, drop a freshly-dead housefly or similar-sized insect, be it from the home or the garden, into a pitcher. The insect should not have been killed with any pesticide. Feed pitcher plants in this manner by dropping in two small insects in two pitchers every two days or so, but only if insects are not present in the plants’ location and surroundings. Houseflies and crickets are good choices. Do not put anything, food or otherwise, other than an insect into a pitcher. Repotting Nepenthes plants will not need to be potted on due to nutrient consumption or deficiency, as they do not consume soil nutrients and prefer nutrient-poor soil to begin with. A plant will need potting up only if it outgrows the pot it is in. Pitcher plant growth is highly variable as it is strongly dependent on environmental conditions. If you observe the roots emerging from the bottom of the pot or the plant is clearly too big for its container, promptly pot up to the next-higher-sized container. Another reason to re-pot a pitcher plant may be soil degradation or decomposition. Pitcher plant roots are very delicate, so potting on is a dodgy operation. Water the plant and remove it with the caked soil and promptly plant it in the prepared pot. Scatter the soil around and over the roots and merely dab it down without exerting any pressure on it and tap the pot on the ground to settle the medium. Water in the plant. Pruning Pitcher plants do not require pruning as such. However, you might notice that over time a pitcher starts going brown and begins to wither. This occurs after a pitcher has trapped and consumed a few or several insects. Snip off such a pitcher at its tendril’s attachment to the leaf. Overwintering Pitcher plants are evergreens and do not enter dormancy in winter. They should not be confused with Sarracenia or the American Pitcher Plant which does enter winter dormancy. You need to do nothing different during winter, just ensure that all the care guidelines laid out above are met. Of course, pitcher plants may not be kept outside even during cool spring or autumn weather, let alone in winter. Common Problems In the UK, all you really need to watch out for are aphids and mealybugs. They can catch fungal diseases, but not if the aforementioned care guidelines are scrupulously followed, particularly the issue of ventilation and air movement. Aphids and mealybugs are not difficult to tackle but make sure not to use chemical controls on Nepenthes. Use biological controls like natural predators, but be aware that these might fall prey to the plants themselves! An infestation of aphids spotted early can be treated with a blower or canned air, though keep it at a good distance from these delicate plants. References 1. Nguyen, T. (2009, August 20). Giant Plant Eats Rodents. livescience.com. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.livescience.com/10561-giant-plant-eats-rodents.html 2. Carnivorous plants: the meat-eaters of the plant world. (n.d.). Natural History Museum. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.nhm.ac.uk/discover/carnivorous-plants-meat-eaters-of-the-plant-world.html 3. Tropical pitcher plants are beautiful but deadly. (2020, season-03). World Wildlife Fund. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.worldwildlife.org/magazine/issues/fall-2020/articles/tropical-pitcher-plants-are-beautiful-but-deadly 4. Nepenthales: Droseraceae & Nepenthaceae. (n.d.). Berkeley University. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://ucmp.berkeley.edu/anthophyta/caryos/nepenthales.html 5. Nepenthes. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144103386 6. Nepenthes. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:327014-2 7. Tropical pitcher plants are beautiful but deadly. (n.d.). World Wildlife Fund. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.worldwildlife.org/magazine/issues/fall-2020/articles/tropical-pitcher-plants-are-beautiful-but-deadly
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Only Feed A Venus Fly Trap During Active Growth Say Experts - These Guidelines Show How
IN THIS GUIDE How Venus Fly Traps Feed In The Wild When To Feed Dionaea How Frequently Should You Feed Venus Fly Traps? What To Feed Dionaea The Feeding Process References The Venus fly trap, botanically named Dionaea muscipula, is the most popular carnivorous plant to grow as a houseplant in the UK.1 For this guide, we’ve teamed up with two experts in carnivorous plants: Kevin Zhang – President of the Mid-Atlantic Carnivorous Plant Society. Kenny Coogan – Education Director at the International Carnivorous Plant Society. Most people are familiar with these fly-eating plants as a novelty often grown within the home. However, fewer people will truly understand how to care for them correctly and, unfortunately, many Venus fly traps grown as houseplants in the UK do not live for long. Feeding these plants correctly is one area where people often do not get it right, so in this guide, I will help you understand the basic feeding guidelines and delve a little deeper to understand when and how to feed these fascinating plants. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Tweezers, small insects, fertiliser (optional) When To Feed During active growth (between spring and autumn) How Venus Fly Traps Feed In The Wild Venus fly traps come from the subtropical wetlands of North and South Carolina.2 In their natural environment, they catch their prey from the environment around them with the trapping structures at the ends of their leaves, which are triggered by tiny, sensitive hairs on their inner surfaces.3 Each plant has between 4-7 leaves arising from a short stem (a bulb-like object) below the ground. In order for the special traps to shut, two trigger hairs must be touched in rapid succession.4 This is a mechanism designed to ensure that the plant only expends energy on closing when there is worthwhile prey to digest. It typically takes just 1 to 3 tenths of a second for the trap to shut and once it does, the stiff hair-like protrusions on the edges mesh together and prevent the prey from escaping.5 “The mechanisms by which they capture insects are striking,” shares Kevin. “The Venus flytrap is capable of rapidly snapping its leaves and it is unusual adaptations like this that are what initially drew me to carnivorous plants.” In our homes, of course, these plants won’t necessarily have access to as many insects as they would in the boggy ground where they naturally belong. With this in mind, we must consider how we can help them to meet their nutritional requirements when we grow them indoors. Our aim should be to provide conditions that mimic as closely as possible the conditions in which these plants thrive in the wild and to try to help them feed in as natural a way as possible. When To Feed Dionaea When caring for Venus fly traps within your home, you should be aware that you will often have to be responsible for feeding them throughout the period when they are in active growth. This is usually between spring and autumn. In autumn, they will die back and remain dormant for the winter months, but they should spring back into active growth once the daylight hours increase the following spring. You will typically have to feed them in spring and during the summer, as it is unlikely that they will be able to catch enough prey naturally inside a home. However, these plants can sometimes be placed outside in the summer before they are brought back indoors for the colder part of the year. If you have adopted this strategy, the plant should be able to catch enough prey on its own in your garden and won’t need any additional feeding throughout this time. How Frequently Should You Feed Venus Fly Traps? Through the spring and summer, it is also important to understand how frequently a Venus fly trap will need to be fed in order to receive the sustenance it needs. This is where many growing these plants inside their homes will go wrong, as they will be tempted to feed far more frequently than is actually required. A Venus fly trap will only require a meal of a fly or other insect around once a fortnight and it is rarely a good idea to feed more frequently than that. Feeding once every few weeks will usually be enough to keep your plant healthy and happy. “The most common misconception is that carnivorous plants will die if they are not fed insects regularly,” says Kevin. “They can do well without being fed insects for weeks, although if you’re growing them somewhere where there are absolutely no insects, I would recommend feeding something every couple of months or so.” What To Feed Dionaea The best things to feed a Venus fly trap are akin to the plant’s wild diet, which largely consists of any insects small enough to fit entirely within one of the traps on the plant, such as different flies, gnats and mosquitoes. Feeding live prey is preferable where possible. If you feed dead prey (like pieces of mealworm, for example) then these should be hydrated before they are fed to the plant and you will have to move them a little within the trap to stimulate it to shut. Fertilisers can also be used, but should not act as a replacement to insects, as Kenny Coogan from the International Carnivorous Plant Society explains: “In addition to water, one important consideration for growing carnivorous plants is fertilisers. “Most carnivorous plants have evolved in low-nutrient environments, but random mutations have enabled plants like Venus fly traps to trap prey and have an advantage in these harsher conditions. “Historically, carnivorous plant growers would say to avoid fertilisers, as they would burn the roots and leaves of plants. “Recently we learned that some are safe for carnivorous plants. “If you grow your plants outside and they have access to insects or if you feed them insects, fertilisers are usually not necessary. “If you are growing them indoors, many genera can benefit from a seaweed-based fertiliser.” The Feeding Process To provide your Venus fly trap with a meal, you will have to find and catch a fly or another smallish insect around which a trap on the plant can close completely. Ideally, it should be smaller than half the size of the trap to prevent decay before the prey is digested. With a pair of tweezers, take this prey and place it into the trap. Remember, it is very important not to forcibly close the traps on your plants. Instead, simply let the trap close on its own. The trap should close and the process of digestion should begin as long as you let nature take its course. “Traps re-open after the digestion process, which takes around a week, and can repeat this process a couple of times,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist. “You only need to feed one or two traps at once.” Make sure you do not close the traps or cause them to close without food within because this causes the plant to expend energy unnecessarily, which can lead to problems. Another key thing to remember is that you should not place foodstuff that is not part of these plants’ natural diets into the traps. Also, make sure that you do not place anything too large for the plants to handle in there. When it comes to feeding Venus fly traps, the most important thing of all to remember is that less is more. References 1. Venus Flytrap. (n.d.). National Wildlife Federation. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://www.nwf.org/Educational-Resources/Wildlife-Guide/Plants-and-Fungi/Venus-Flytrap 2. Gonzalez, S. (2022, September 2). The Venus Flytrap: A North Carolina Native. Homegrown: NC State University. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://homegrown.extension.ncsu.edu/2022/09/the-venus-flytrap-a-north-carolina-native/#:~:text=The%20Venus%20flytrap%2C%20one%20of,70%2Dmile%20radius%20of%20Wilmington. 3. Volkov, A. G., Adesina, T., Markin, V. S., & Jovanov, E. (2008). Kinetics and Mechanism of Dionaea muscipula Trap Closing. Plant Physiology, 146(2), 323–324. https://doi.org/10.1104/pp.107.108241 4. Villazon, L. (2020a, April 15). How do Venus flytraps know when to shut? BBC Science Focus Magazine. https://www.sciencefocus.com/nature/how-do-venus-flytraps-know-when-to-shut/ 5. Yang, R., Lenaghan, S. C., Zhang, M., & Xia, L. (2010). A mathematical model on the closing and opening mechanism for venus flytrap. Plant Signaling & Behavior, 5(8), 968–978. https://doi.org/10.4161/psb.5.8.12136
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Growing Venus Fly Trap: Keep Your Plants Happy With These Secrets From Carnivorous Pros
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow A Venus Fly Trap Plant Care Repotting Guidelines Leaves Turning Black References There are few plants more curious and captivating than the Venus Fly Trap; a carnivorous plant that snares flies and other small insects in its jaws, before devouring them. The Venus Fly Trap (Dionaea muscipula) attracts flies and crawling insects (such as spiders and beetles) using colour and sweet nectar in its traps.1 When the fly touches the plant’s sensitive hairs, it triggers the jaws to snap shut, ensnaring the fly and beginning the process of dissolving it into tasty, protein-packed plant food. For this guide, we interviewed Kenny Coogan from the International Carnivorous Plant Society. “Venus Fly Traps are intriguing and attractive. They can do great on windowsills with artificial light and others make a fine garden or patio plant” says Kenny. Kenny Coogan “Carnivorous plants use modified leaves to trap their prey. Regardless of your aesthetics, there is a carnivorous plant for you!” Overview Botanical Name Dionaea muscipula Common Name(s) Venus Fly Trap Plant Type Carnivorous Native Area South-Eastern United States Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Leaves ending in traps Flowers Flowers in summer (though not usually desired) When To Re-Pot February, March Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune June (remove flowers), July, August With their bright green colour and red-mouthed traps, these fascinating plants make a fun addition to any household, and can hold particular appeal to kids (and big kids alike!). Not only that, but they can serve a practical (though somewhat limited) purpose too: helping to control the number of flies and bugs in your home. “I love Venus fly traps as they are really happy in a sunny position and need watering, but other than that, they are not the complex beings that we see them as,” Michael Perry, Mr Plant Geek, shares. “They are also hardy outside and are really nice for a pond outdoors, which is something that people often don’t consider.” Growing a Venus Fly Trap is an all-round rewarding experience – and the great news is, it’s not difficult; these plants are hardy and can thrive in the UK’s seasonal climate. Habitat & Growing Conditions The Venus Fly Trap’s natural habitat is limited to small areas of North and South Carolina in the USA, where it thrives in boggy conditions along the coastline.2 Their native sandy soil is moist and acidic, but not nutrient-dense – which is why they get most of their nutrients from ingesting bugs instead. The temperature in Carolina fluctuates between 1-32°C from winter to summer, and therefore Venus Fly Traps are perfectly at home in the UK’s climate.3 You will just need to protect your Venus Fly Trap from the harsher elements, either using a greenhouse, conservatory or terrarium. Winter in the Carolinas runs from November to February, and during this time, the Venus Fly Trap enters a dormancy period (think of it like hibernation). The plant’s leaves turn brown/black and it will die back (but don’t worry, it will recover). You need to make sure to recreate this cold period for your plant – if you’re growing it in a greenhouse, it can stay where it is for British winter, but if it’s on a window sill in a heated home, you will need to move it somewhere cooler, such as a garage. Bear in mind it will still require sunlight, and you should make sure the temperature doesn’t regularly drop below freezing. “I grow carnivorous plants, including a Venus fly trap, in pots outside using a peat-free ericaceous compost that is very moisture retentive,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I found that they didn’t thrive indoors, but outdoors they are perfectly happy in the summer months. I put them into a greenhouse in winter and this is enough to allow them to enter dormancy but avoid frost damage.” How To Grow A Venus Fly Trap You can buy seeds or fully grown Venus Fly Traps from garden centres, flower shows or carnivorous plant specialists, as well as online suppliers. Fully grown Venus Fly Traps will usually be sold during peak season (mid-spring to mid-autumn), as this is when the plants look their best. There are several variants of Venus Fly Trap available; if you’re just starting out, we recommend choosing one of the hardier varieties, such as the King Henry or Dingley Giant. “The typical Venus flytrap has green on the outside of the lobes and pink to red on the inside,” says Kenny. “Some breeders have chosen plants with more red or even purple on the outside, whilst others have selected traps that look like they have melted due to radiation. Some are extra toothy; others are extra-large. “Others have petioles that resemble reptile skin. Some have fuzzy pom-poms instead of traps! Once you get comfortable growing the typical flytrap, you will want to start adding other cultivars to your collection.” Choose a plant which looks vibrant in colour and has no (or very few) dead leaves, and make sure it’s potted in suitable soil. If you’re planning to grow multiple carnivorous plants, consider joining the UK Carnivorous Plant Society or the International Carnivorous Plant Society. Growing From Seed If you’re growing your own Venus Fly Trap from scratch, here’s an overview of the equipment you need and the process you should follow: Surface sow the seeds in a 10cm plastic pot which has good drainage and is filled with suitable compost. Place the pot inside a tray or container and use stones to keep the pot secure (and give it a decorative look). Keep the outer pot filled with 1–2cm of pure water, allowing the plant to draw in as much water as it needs. You will need to make use of a grow light and keep the plant indoors. If it’s summertime, you can also leave it outside in direct sunlight. Make sure to choose a bright yet sheltered spot. Once your plant has grown, you can start to feed it a small number of insects (one per week), to give it an added boost of nutrients. Your plant will flower in spring, but unless you want to harvest the seeds, you should prune the flower stalk as soon as you can identify it as such, to avoid draining your Venus Fly Trap of nutrients unnecessarily. Keep an eye out for signs of greenfly, as Dionaea are unable to protect themselves from these pests and will require your intervention. Plant Care Sunlight Venus Fly Trap needs direct sunlight in order to grow their strong, fly-imprisoning leaves. They will typically flourish in a terrarium under a powerful fluorescent grow light (providing you respect their winter dormancy period), which is what Kenny recommends: “Venus flytraps do not always do well on a windowsill – even if it is sunny. “With today’s grow light technology it is possible (and easy) to grow carnivorous inside with the addition of artificial light.” They ideally need 12 hours of direct sunlight a day to grow to their full potential – although they can survive on less. Potting Medium You can pot your Venus Fly Trap with carnivorous plant compost from specialist suppliers or garden centres, or you can make your own by combining sphagnum peat moss with perlite or horticultural sand (ratio 2:1). Avoid conventional potting compost and fertilisers, as the concentration of minerals can be harmful to your Venus plant, which naturally grows in nutrient-poor soil. Watering Venus plants need pure water to grow properly – they are used to acidic environments and the alkaline minerals found in tap or bottled water can make growing conditions difficult for them. Kenny explains: “Carnivorous plants do not do well with salts, minerals, and chlorine. Most city and well water are above their tolerance threshold. You can use rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis.” The easiest solution is to collect rainwater (there’s generally plenty of that going spare in the UK!) or use a reverse osmosis system as mentioned. “Another aspect of water is Venus flytraps like to be kept moist to wet,” says Kenny. “If you grow these plants, using a water tray method is recommended. This involves sitting pots that have drainage holes in a saucer or tray that holds water. “When the tray empties, but before the pots and substrate go dry, refill the tray.” Aim to keep the soil wet in summer and just damp in winter – but never let it dry out. Feeding Insects Only once you’ve taken care of all your Venus Fly Trap’s basic needs, can you start to think about feeding it insects, if you think it needs it. Basic care dictates you should aim to feed a healthy, indoor plant (outdoor plants will catch their own food) one small insect, once a week; making sure to feed a different trap each time. You can feed it live or (freshly) dead flies, or buy dried mealworms or crickets for this purpose. Aim for a size of around one-third that of the trap, and make sure not to feed it anything other than bugs. See our full guide to feeding Venus Fly Traps for more information. Bear in mind that these plants can go for many months without eating and be fine (up to 6-8 months says Kenny). It’s also important to remember that, however tempting it may be, you should not tease a Venus Fly Trap by tickling its hairs to trigger the closing of its traps. Although this will work, it’s not good for the plant, as it uses a lot of energy – and it won’t have caught anything to replenish any spent nutrients. Do this too much, and your plant will eventually die. Repotting Guidelines If you buy a Venus Fly Trap from a garden centre or similar, it will come potted in a suitable compost, and shouldn’t need to be re-potted that year. However, as your plant grows year-on-year, you may need to relocate it periodically into bigger pots, to give the roots more aeration. Check out our video with Megan Webb on how to repot (and potentially divide your existing plant) for more information: If your Dionaea muscipula has outgrown its current pot, aim to complete the repotting process around the end of February/beginning of March, just after the winter dormancy period. Make sure to use specialised carnivorous plant compost in the new, larger pot. Leaves Turning Black If the leaves of your Venus Plant are slowly turning black during winter, don’t panic. Winter Dormancy “Many carnivorous plants that people grow, including Venus flytraps, go through dormant periods,” explains Kenny. “I fear that many people witness this and throw out completely healthy plants thinking that they have died! With proper care, they should come back in the spring.” This is a perfectly normal part of the winter dormancy period, as your plant dies back to its rhizome. Traps and leaves will die, and you should simply prune off the dead or dying leaves at the base once they begin to brown. It’s important to remove these black leaves as soon as possible, to prevent mould, which can spread to the rest of the plant. You should move your plant to a cooler location, and significantly reduce watering whilst your plant is going through this winter dormancy process. Water the compost directly, rather than filling up the tray, and make sure to keep it damp, but not saturated. Other than that, leave your plant to do its thing, and try not to worry – if you’ve taken care of it correctly, it should be fine. Growing Conditions If your plant’s leaves are turning brown at other times of the year, this could be a sign that it is unhealthy or dying due to insufficient growing conditions. Trim the dead leaves, and make sure your plant has access to plenty of water and direct sunlight. References 1. Brewer, G. (2020, March 27). Venus flytrap: The creepy carnivorous plant. Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/venus-flytrap-creepy-carnivorous-plant 2. CNR Web. (2021, January 6). 5 Things You Didn’t Know About Venus Flytraps. College of Natural Resources News. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://cnr.ncsu.edu/news/2021/01/five-things-you-didnt-know-about-venus-flytraps/ 3. Climate and Average Weather Year Round in Charlotte. (n.d.). Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://weatherspark.com/y/18893/Average-Weather-in-Charlotte-North-Carolina-United-States-Year-Round
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