Growing
Kate Gould On Her 2022 Award-Winning Chelsea Flower Garden ‘Out Of The Shadows’
RHS Gold-Medalist Kate Gould has established herself as one of the leading Garden Designers in the UK. She and her team won multiple awards for the Chelsea Flower Show garden Kate designed in 2022 (named ‘Out of the Shadows’) including ‘Best Sanctuary Garden’ and ‘Best Construction’. Her design business, which began as a one-woman show over 20 years ago, has now grown into a large team, which Kate herself describes as ‘tight-knit’ and ‘highly skilled’. I spoke with her to learn how she built a career as a Garden Designer and discovered more about her passion for gardening. How Did You First Get Into Gardening? “My mum gardened as well as both of my grandmothers, so I was always encouraged to be outside,” shares Kate. “My first horticultural memory is of this little trough my mother had that was filled with godetia. There were some weeds in there too, so one day, when I was around 3 years old, she showed me how to weed them out. “I ended up weeding all the godetias out and left the actual weeds – I don’t know what that says about me!” What Led You To A Career In Garden Design? “Nothing was planned. I left school and I worked for a company that was growing very quickly; we were even doing the filing in the men’s toilets! Image provided by Richard Waite Photography “Because of this, I wanted to do something to relax in the evenings, so I went looking for a class. I ended up on a Garden Design course with the most amazing tutor who I am still friends with today 25 years later. “I really struck gold with her. If I had someone else teaching me, I might not be doing what I’m doing now.” Do You Have A Process For Designing Gardens? “Fundamentally, you’ve got to listen, as every client has different needs,” says Kate. “Whether they come to you because they like your style or they want something that’s unique to them, you have to listen to understand what will be best for their space.” Do You Have A Favourite Memory Of A Garden You’ve Designed? “The ones that stick in my memory are usually private client gardens because it is so much more about the individuals and doing something unique for them. “Having said that, the gardens that are truly anchored in my mind are the Show Gardens at the likes of Chelsea. Image provided by Helen Fickling Photography “This is because the whole process is compressed into such a tiny amount of time and you are there all day every day working with your team. You never have that experience in a real garden, as you are not there every day.” “It’s also how we build teamwork because if you can work through that together, you can work through anything.” How Did Your 2022 Award-Winning Chelsea Flower Garden ‘Out Of The Shadows’ Come About? “It was about our reaction to the pandemic and what our clients wanted, which was somewhere to be safe, exercise and relax,” she explains. “The climate is changing and it was our adaption of that too. We wanted to show that you can grow more interesting plants, which is ironic now because we then had the coldest winter in about 10 years afterwards!” Do You Have Any Standout Career Moments? “Last year at Chelsea was pretty special, as we won three awards for one garden. “However, the standout moments for me are when everyone is in the office. It’s absolute carnage and so much fun – I always end up locked in a cupboard! “Those are the moments that make what I do special because it’s about the people, not the gardens.” What Does Gardening Mean To You? “I’m happiest when I’m gardening and I think that tells you a lot,” Kate shares. “Gardening for myself is what gives me the most amount of joy, as I have the freedom to move things around and try new things out that I wouldn’t necessarily try out on a client straight away.” “Every day’s a school day with gardening.” Do You Have Anything In The Pipeline You’d Like To Share? “We’re constantly rolling new projects out, it’s ridiculous,” she laughs. Image provided by Nicola Stocken Photography “We’re photographing things all over the country at the moment. There’s a lot going on.” Do You Have Any Advice For Aspiring Garden Designers? “My advice would be to not run before you can walk. “Don’t think that a garden at Chelsea or Hampton Court is your springboard to success. Your springboard is capitalising on your clients, making them happy and getting referrals from them to build your business. “When you know how to build a garden, you can attempt a showground, but you need to understand the basics first. Learn your craft really well and then try to show it to everyone. “Don’t show them what you can do when you know nothing.”
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Howea Forsteriana ‘Kentia Palm’ - How To Grow Them Successfully As Houseplants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Kentia Palm Care References The Kentia Palm is the quintessential ‘Parlour Palm’ of the Victoria era and is still very popular as a houseplant today. Growing it indoors here, so far from its native range on an Australian island, is actually a very easy thing to do, which accounts for its enduring popularity with houseplant growers in temperate climes of the Northern Hemisphere.1 Overview Botanical Name Howea forsteriana Common Name(s) Kentia Palm Plant Type Houseplant Palm Native Area Australia Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small, shaped like stars, borne in groups of spikes, followed by little oval fruits (not usually seen in houseplants in the UK) When To Plant Year-round The Kentia Palm, which goes by the Latin name Howea forsteriana, is native to Lord Howe Island, Australia.2 Seed exports from the island of this species first began in the 1870s and these palms soon became the height of fashion, seen in many of the swankiest palaces, hotels and homes.3 While the Kentia palm can be grown outdoors in warmer temperate climates as well as tropical ones, it is most commonly grown as a houseplant in the UK. It has an RHS hardiness rating of H1A, meaning that it is best grown indoors or under glass throughout the whole of the year. Howea belmoreana Most of the time, Kentia Palms are sold as species types and not as named cultivars. The species Howea forsteriana has been given an Award of Garden Merit by the RHS. Another related species, also from Lord Howe Island, is Howea belmoreana (Belmore Sentry Palm), which is rather similar but somewhat smaller. This can also be a great choice for indoor cultivation. Kentia Palm Care Kentia Palms do have the reputation of being relatively easy to grow. However, in order to grow them successfully as houseplants, you do need to understand the conditions that they need to thrive and the care that they require. The key details that you need are outlined below: Light & Temperature Kentia Palms need a location indoors that has bright but indirect light. They like to be in a warm environment, ideally one with temperatures between 18-24°C. Temperatures ideally should not drop below 15°C and certainly not below 12°C. A bright and well-heated bathroom can be the perfect spot for a Kentia palm because, in addition to liking warmth, these palms also like a moderately humid environment. Growing Medium These palms should be potted up into a container filled with a soil-based growing medium; mixed with some sand or grit to improve drainage – or with composted bark and leaf mould in equal parts. Watering It is essential to water moderately during the summer months, allowing the palm to dry out, but it is also important to make sure that you do not overwater and that excess water can always drain away freely. This is because waterlogging can be a major issue for this plant. Over the winter months, only water sparingly. Feeding It is generally a good idea to feed Howea forsteriana with an organic liquid plant feed once a month during the summer, while the plant is in active growth. A balanced liquid plant feed like a compost tea can be ideal. Plant expert Dan Ori shares that watering with tap water can make the compost alkaline, which is not desirable for Howea: “Top-dressing the top layer of compost each spring with fresh ericaceous compost is often enough to offset the effects of being watered by tap water as well as providing accessible nutrients for the plant,” he suggests. Pruning With Kentia Palms, no pruning is required. Propagating Kentia palms are propagated by seed, which is sown into a heated propagator that provides temperatures for germination which remain above 19°C. Though not impossible, it would be challenging to grow your own Kentia Palm from seed and, of course, it would take a long time for them to grow into the larger houseplants that most people desire. Therefore, people will mostly purchase Kentia Palms in pots. Often, the plants that are purchased are actually several seedlings all in the same pot to give a lush and bushy appearance. Common Problems While Kentia Palms are not particularly prone to pest or disease problems, they can have issues with red spider mites, thrips, scale insects and other common indoor pests. Despite this, Kentia Palms are not prone to problems if they are grown in the right environmental conditions and provided with the right care. References 1. Howea forsteriana (F.Muell.) Becc. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:667434-1 2. Downing, A., Atwell, B., Marais, K., & Downing, K. (n.d.). Lord Howe Island Palms. Macquarie University. Retrieved September 12, 2023, from https://www.mq.edu.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0007/1217293/Plant-of-the-week-Lord-Howe-Island-Palms-Howea-spp.pdf 3. Hutton, I. (2002, August 23). The History of Howeia. The European Palm Society. Retrieved June 14, 2023, from http://www.palmsociety.org/members/english/chamaerops/013/013-05.shtml
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Phillip Harkness On Yellowing Rose Leaves - 'Prevention Is Better Than The Cure'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Spider Mite Infestation 2) Black Spot 3) Nutrient Deficiencies 4) A Lack Of Nitrogen 5) Underwatering The Soil 6) Overwatering Or A Lack Of Sun Roses are perhaps the most cherished of flowering bushes because their blooms are the most prized of flowers. Unfortunately, little that is cherished and prized comes easily and roses are no exception – meaning they can succumb to many a pest, disease and deficiency. One symptom of many problems is yellowing leaves. Not only are yellow leaves on a rose bush a disconcerting sight, they always indicate an issue that is best diagnosed and treated urgently. Underneath we lay out six causes of yellow leaves on rose bushes and also make some suggestions for treatment. 1) Spider Mite Infestation Spider Mites are one of the more common types of pests that rose bushes are vulnerable to. If the infestation is an advanced one, the rose bush, unfortunately, may not be saveable, but caught early enough, spider mites can be eradicated. First, wash off all the mites and strands with jets of water from a hose. Next, apply a plant insecticide strictly according to the maker’s instructions. Finally, release biological controls such as lacewings, mite-feeding ladybirds and such. 2) Black Spot A fungal disease, black spot is one of the more common, as well as one of the more serious, diseases that can affect a rose bush. “Plants are no different to people, prevention is better than cure,” shares Philip Harkness, from Harkness Roses. Fortunately, it can be treated with fungicides. Apart from treating the disease, you will also need to take steps to prevent it from spreading. “Milder, wetter counties are perfect conditions for black spot,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “If you find that your rose is prone, rather than repeatedly spraying with fungicide, remove it and replace it with a cultivar that has better resistance.” 3) Nutrient Deficiencies As the problem could be either iron deficiency or alkaline soil or both, the best course of action is to first test the soil pH. If the soil pH is higher than 7.5, then the reason is alkaline soil, but if it is up to 7.0, then the problem is iron deficiency (or possibly magnesium or sulphur deficiency). You could treat each issue independently or apply sulphate of iron which will resolve both problems, albeit over time. Dilute and use according to the manufacturer’s instructions. As a more immediate treatment, apply chelated iron as a foliar spray. It is a niche product that is made by specialist manufacturers. Apply foliar sprays near dawn in the late evening or on overcast days. 4) A Lack Of Nitrogen A nitrogen deficiency in the soil can also be caused by an alkaline soil pH. First test the soil pH with a pH meter. If it is 7.5 or higher, then you should acidify the soil. The quick and easy way to acidify soil is by amending the soil with ericaceous compost, particularly if the problem is not acute. “If you have alkaline soil or acidic soil, I would recommend not trying to grow roses rather than trying to tackle the underlying soil conditions, which will always prevail in the end,” says Colin. “Alternatively, search for a rose that will tolerate a wider range of conditions – most rose nurseries will have some options.” If the soil could use some added fertility and richness, you could kill two birds with one stone by amending it with well-rotted chicken manure. If the soil is very alkaline, mix sulphate of ammonia into the compost or manure. It will not only lower the soil pH, but it will also introduce Nitrogen into the soil. If the soil pH checks out and the problem is a nitrogen deficiency, blood meal will do the trick in normalising it. The rose bush will take time to recover, so bear this in mind. 5) Underwatering The Soil Drench the soil. Afterwards, be sure to water the bush properly and not let the soil stay dry for any great length of time, especially during hot weather. If you have eliminated all the preceding possibilities in trying to diagnose the cause of yellow leaves on your roses, then the final issue might be harder to diagnose. 6) Overwatering Or A Lack Of Sun Roses need to be planted in a full sun spot. If your rose bush is growing in the shade, it will need to be transplanted to a sunny spot or the objects or elements that are throwing shade on the bush will need to be adjusted. Though roses unquestionably need water, the soil should not stay wet, let alone waterlogged. These shrubs need to be rooted in well-draining soil that is light and not dense or clayey. If the problem is overwatering, the solution is easy enough. Although you cannot prevent all the problems that may affect a rose bush, a defensive approach is well-suited for rose growers. “Don’t be afraid or frightened of the task,” says Philip. “Plants, not just roses, have the will to live and survive. As long as you try to help your garden plants with careful cultivation, they are hard to kill.” You have to get factors like sunlight, soil constituents, soil moisture, soil pH and proper nourishment right for roses more than for most other shrubs because roses are more vulnerable to a variety of pests and diseases.
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Growing Lithops: 'They Look So Much Like Rocks And Then Flower So Impressively'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Lithops Varieties How To Grow Lithops Lithops Care Guidelines References Even by the laid-back standards of succulents, Lithops take cool to a whole new level, as these evergreen plants look like a pair of stones. They often have a translucent or dappled appearance, which is pretty enough, and then they burst into flower. If you’re a gardener who also likes to collect unusual stones and has an interest in geology, Lithops is just the plant for you. “I have found Lithops to be a great way to introduce children to succulents,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are a great way to explain adaptation because they look so much like rocks and then flower so impressively.” Overview Botanical Name Lithops Common Name(s) Living stones, flowering stones, pebble plants Plant Type Perennial succulent Native Area South-east Africa Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Somewhat daisy-like; wide-open form with narrow rays and central ‘tuft’ When To Plant April These evergreen succulents mimic stones and, as a result, grazing herbivores in their native habitat of South-Eastern Africa safely pass them by.1 These apparent stones are actually specialised leaves which occur in pairs that are separated by a slit. By looking at Lithops, you wouldn’t guess that it is an evergreen, because quite a number of these living stones are grey or brown in colour. They have translucent windows on the upper surface to let in sunlight that look like blotches, dapples or mottling which, for the gardener’s purposes, make the plant more decorative. However, the decorative value of Lithops does not end with this foliage. In early autumn, they produce wide-open flowers that often bear a resemblance to common daisies. Relative to the plants’ small size, the 3-4cm wide flowers look quite large. Lithops Varieties There are 38 species and many more cultivars in the Lithops genus, and virtually all of them can be grown as houseplants in temperate regions, including the UK.2 Though all varieties are tender plants with a hardiness rating of only H2, if grown as houseplants in the UK and Europe, they are considered low maintenance. This is one of the reasons that all the following species, among others, have been awarded the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. L. karasmontana Beige with red-ochre mottling, bearing white flowers with a yellow centre. L. lesliei Of a brownish hue with olive-green mottling and white or yellow flowers. L. dorotheae Beige with olive-green mottling, red-ochre markings and yellow flowers. L. salicola Greenish-grey with a darker blotch that is sometimes marbled bearing white flowers. L. olivacea Dull green with an olive-green blotch with bright yellow flowers that have a medial white ring. These plants typically reach a mere 3-4cm in height, with a 5-6cm spread. Over time, some species can and do become bigger. In all cases, the bulk of the plant is beneath the soil, where it is considerably bigger than what you may expect. How To Grow Lithops In the UK you should grow Lithops in containers. The plants should be kept outdoors during the warm weather when the temperature is consistently above 12°C and indoors during the rest of the year. Otherwise, you can grow them as houseplants all year round. However, they do need several hours of direct sunlight. Preferred Conditions In a nutshell, Lithops prefer sunny skies, a dryish climate and sandy-to-rocky free-draining soil. The aspect of the pots should preferably be south-facing but east or west-facing will also be fine. Though technically Lithops should be sited in a sheltered spot, this is not a strict instruction. This is because these potted plants would not be kept outdoors in the UK during the cold weather and their very low rise and stubby profiles make them impervious to strong winds. Sunlight In the UK, Lithops will thrive in full sun, with several hours of direct sunlight, outdoors or indoors. When kept outside, potted Lithops must not be exposed to a scorching sun during very hot weather, even in the UK. Note that sunlight is necessary for this plant to flower. Soil Requirements Lithops do best in free-draining media that is pebbly and sandy with little organic content. The simplest and most error-free way to go about it is to obtain a high-quality commercial cactus potting mix and amend it in moderation with grit, perlite or both. Otherwise, you would have to make your own cactus medium but be sure that it is neither overly rich nor moisture-retentive. In very warm and humid climates, you can add fungicide powder or solution to the growing medium to stave off fungal diseases, but this is not strictly necessary in the UK as long as you do not keep potted Lithops outdoors during hot, muggy weather or in cold, humid conditions. The soil pH should be in the slightly acidic to neutral range. Pots should be made of terracotta or clay and have multiple drainage holes. Watering Watering Lithops is a bit more complicated than watering other succulents. This plant should be watered like other succulents, but only during spring and from late summer to October-November, which are its periods of active growth. Water so that the medium is made damp all the way down, then water again after the medium has become dry and stayed dry for a couple of days. How frequently you water depends on the temperature, exposure and the type of pot. Sometimes, these plants go dormant and do not grow actively during the summer. If, during the summer, the plants are kept in a warm spot with little sun, then they should be watered sparingly, but if they are kept outdoors and get full sun, then they should be watered periodically. Allow the soil to dry out before rewatering. A good indicator of when to water is the living stones themselves. If they look full and plump, all is well, but if they appear wrinkled or as if they are shrivelling, they need a drink. Do not water these plants in winter. Start watering again as soon as the new pair of leaves have taken the place of the old, shrivelled ones. Growing From Seed Lithops are typically grown from seed. The process is not exactly easy, but it is quite a reliable way to grow this plant. Seeds should be sown in trays or pots and the best time to do so is April. They need bright, indirect light and high humidity to germinate. Make sure to water the seedlings more than you water mature plants. Lithops Care Guidelines Repotting Living stones grow very slowly, they do not drain the medium of nutrients, their roots are fragile and they are prone to transplant shock. All these are very good reasons not to repot Lithops as you would other plants. Once they are all set in a pot, they are good for twenty years or more. If you need to repot a Lithops plant for whatever reason, the best time to do so is in the middle of summer. Before potting on Lithops, water the plant and be aware that these plants have fragile roots and are prone to transplant shock. Propagating ‘Living Stones’ are propagated by two methods, by seed and by offset division. In April they may be grown from seeds, as outlined above. Alternatively, when an offset has matured and looks like a viable plant, it may be divided and potted on, thereby becoming a new plant. Common Problems As with other succulents, root rot is a common problem if living stones are grown in moist, water-retentive soil or if they are overwatered. If the soil is kept moist during winter, which is a no-no, the older pair of leaves will not shrivel away and you’ll end up with an awkward plant with a double pair of leaves, the new on top of the old, which will give rise to knock-on problems. In the UK, they may be attacked by two pests, aphids and mealybugs. Aphids do not pose too serious a problem, but mealybugs are difficult to catch early and are not easy to eradicate. In the UK, Lithops are generally disease free. References 1. Rewald, B., Eppel, A., Shelef, O., Hill, A. B., Degu, A., Friedjung, A., Rachmilevitch, S., & Bell, E. M. (2012, March). Hot desert environments. CABI eBooks. Retrieved June 16, 2023, from https://doi.org/10.1079/9781845938147.0196 2. Lithops N.E.Br. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:16237-1
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Keep Plumeria ‘Frangipani’ Houseplants Happy With These Growing Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Plumeria Frangipani Care References Plumeria, also known as ‘Frangipani’, is a fragrant, tropical plant that can also be grown in our temperate climate as a houseplant. While these plants can sometimes be placed outdoors in the summer months, they are most commonly grown as houseplants and kept indoors year-round. They make excellent conservatory or greenhouse plants and can also potentially be grown in a bright spot elsewhere inside your home. Overview Botanical Name Plumeria Common Name(s) Frangipani Plant Type Shrub or tree, mainly grown as a houseplant Native Area Neotropics Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Deciduous or evergreen Flowers Exotic blooms in a range of shades When To Plant Year-round Frangipani belongs to a genus of flowering plants in the Apocynaceae plant family.1 Most are shrubs or small trees endemic to the Neotropics of Mexico, Central and South America.2 They are also grown widely as ornamentals in tropical regions around the globe and there are nineteen accepted species within this genus, according to Kew.3 The appearance of the foliage and the flowers depends on which species and which particular cultivar is grown. However, one defining characteristic of this genus is that the flowers are strongly scented, especially at night. When choosing a frangipani, you will need to select a plant to purchase. Since these plants can take a long time to flower, you should generally aim to purchase as large a plant as you can – in order to enjoy their impact more quickly. Of course, the form and flowers of these plants can vary greatly. Common Varieties Many of the varieties grown in the UK belong to the species Plumeria rubra, though sometimes, other species are grown. P. rubra is a deciduous type of frangipani. There are also evergreen types, including P. obtusa ‘Singapore White’ and P. pudica ‘Bridal Bouquet’. P. pudica ‘Bridal Bouquet’ Common and highly regarded options to grow as houseplants in the UK include: P. rubra ‘Aztec Gold’ P. ‘Black Widow’ There are also plenty of other interesting cultivars to consider which have different coloured flowers or different foliage. How To Grow Plumeria Like other tropical houseplants, Plumeria can take some effort to grow. It is also important that you choose a suitable location in which to grow it. However, if the right environmental conditions are provided, this is a plant that can grow successfully indoors over a number of years. Winter care can be especially important. Plumeria can be planted up into pots or planted into the ground in a greenhouse border as long as that greenhouse remains warm enough throughout the year. Frangipani should be placed in a bright location throughout the growing season, with temperatures that remain consistently above 15°C during the winter months, as at temperatures any colder than this, the growing tips can rot. Soil Requirements In containers, these plants should be provided with good quality, free-draining potting mix, such as John Innes no. 2, with some sharp sand or grit added to improve the drainage. Every second year, the plants should be repotted and moved into a slightly larger container. In alternate years when not repotting, the top 5cm of the growing medium should be removed and replaced with fresh compost. Growing From Seed Some Plumeria blossoms are infertile, so this is not typically a plant that is propagated by seed. However, where seeds do develop, these can be sown in spring or summer and then covered over lightly. They will need temperatures of 20-24°C for successful germination. Frangipani Care Keeping frangipani happy as a houseplant means understanding the care that they require and, crucially, how that care differs from one part of the year to another. “I have grown Frangipani in an unheated conservatory, being careful to move it into a bright spot in the house from November to March,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. ‘It can struggle with the change of light levels but recovers once back in the conservatory – on warmer winter days I will move it back into the conservatory to benefit from the light and then back inside as temperatures drop.” Watering Over the active growing season between spring and autumn, you should water freely when the Plumeria is dry. However, take care not to overwater and ensure that excess water can drain away freely. In winter, frangipani should be kept very dry. In the coldest months, these houseplants should not be watered at all and should be treated in much the same way as cacti are over the winter months. You should only start watering again from around the middle of March. Feeding Between April and the end of August, it is good practice to feed frangipani every couple of weeks with a balanced organic liquid feed, such as compost tea. However, make sure that you do not feed these plants over the winter and leave it at least 5-6 weeks before you feed them again after repotting. Pruning It is best to avoid pruning Plumeria, as the wood is very soft and rot can set in easily. If you absolutely must cut back some growth, then do this in early spring, towards the tail end of the dormant period before the plant returns to active growth. Cut back the growth that must be removed to where the next shoot or branch joins. Generally, if plants are overgrown, they should be replaced, as they will not respond well to renovation pruning. Propagating Frangipani can be propagated by means of cuttings, which are best taken in February or March. Cuttings around 10-15cm long should be taken from shoot tips. These cuttings should then be left in a warm, dry spot for a couple of days for the ends to callus over. Once the callus has formed over the cut end, the cuttings should be inserted into a free-draining compost mix and put into a propagator with bottom heat. Keep the cuttings fairly dry, as excessive wet can cause them to rot. In ideal conditions, the cuttings should root within 4-6 weeks. Common Problems Most of the problems encountered when growing Plumeria relate to environmental conditions. For example, there may be problems if there is not enough light, temperatures drop too low, the conditions are too wet or too dry, or drainage is not sufficient. Red spider mites may also occasionally become problematic when growing this plant under glass. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.). Plumeria rubra. Oxford University Plants 400: Retrieved June 14, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/op/Plumeria 2. Tiernan, N. (2021, May 18). Taxonomy and Systematics of Plumeria L. (Apocynaceae) in the Caribbean Islands. FIU Digital Commons. Retrieved June 14, 2023, from https://digitalcommons.fiu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=6155&context=etd 3. Plumeria Tourn. ex L. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved June 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001863-2
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5 Apple Tree Training Methods With Advice From Sheffield Fruit Trees Members
IN THIS GUIDE Training & Support For Standard Apple Trees 1) The Espaliered Form 2) Pleached Apple Tree Support 3) Fan Training Your Trees 4) Cordon Apple Trees 5) The Step-Over Form Apple trees are one of the best and most common fruits to grow in UK gardens. Versatile and resilient, they can find a place in many gardens. If you are considering growing an apple tree where you live, one important thing to consider is what shape you would like your tree to take. Apple trees can be grown as standard trees and are commonly grafted onto different-sized rootstocks that determine their size and vigour. You can choose to grow a taller apple tree or one grafted to a dwarfing or semi-dwarfing rootstock that will end up smaller in size. As well as growing apple trees as standard-form trees, it is also possible to train apple trees into different forms. Apple trees lend themselves to cultivation even in smaller spaces because they can be trained to grow into space-saving and much more compact forms than those into which they would naturally grow. “Do some initial pruning over the first few years, to shape your tree to a desired shape,” says Julie Bellemann from Sheffield Fruit Trees. “If you do this in the early years, it will be easier to prune once it is more established. “If you have very little space, look into ways you can train your trees. Against a wall, fence or in a large pot are the best options.” When it comes to the training and support of apple trees, there are, in fact, 5 main options: An espaliered form. A pleached tree. A fan-trained apple tree. Along a cordon. In a step-over form. Read on for a little more information about each of the different growing forms. Training & Support For Standard Apple Trees If you are letting an apple tree grow in its naturalistic form, you will not need to worry a huge amount about training and support for your tree. However, it is often a good idea to add a stake when initially planting your apple tree. This will not typically be necessary if you are planting a smaller tree but can be beneficial if you are planting a taller variety that is more top-heavy. Depending on the specific situation and tree, single staking, double staking or angled staking may be useful where required. 1) The Espaliered Form When it comes to shaped forms for apple trees, the espalier is one option to consider. Espaliered trees are trained and supported against a flat surface with a central trunk and several series of horizontal branches spreading out to both sides. Espaliered trees are generally trained to grow along horizontal wires affixed to a wall or fence. “I find espalier trained apples to offer the best option for a small garden, producing a good crop once established in a small pace,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are also a great option for allotments or kitchen gardens, allowing them to be trained against walls or fences and freeing up space for other crops. They also look great!” These should be spaced around 35-45cm apart and the lowest one should be 40cm above ground level. A single-stemmed tree or partially pre-trained espaliered apple tree is then placed and tied into the supports. Side stems are tied down to the horizontal support wires as they grow and all unwanted shoots are pruned back to just 2-3 leaves. 2) Pleached Apple Tree Support Pleached apple trees are trained to have a long bare stem at the base, with branches spread out horizontally on either side of a central leader above a certain height. This is a variation on the idea of an espaliered apple tree, but the space below allows light to come through, while perhaps enhancing the privacy in a particular part of a garden. These are trained in much the same way as an espaliered apple tree, but, of course, a longer bare trunk at the base is maintained. These are often purchased as fairly mature apple trees that have already been trained to give a near-instant impact. 3) Fan Training Your Trees Fan-trained apple trees have a short trunk and a series of branches that radiate out like a fan above the said trunk. This shape is often used up against a wall or fence in a garden to make the most of the space available. Apple trees are best fan-trained in late winter or early spring before their buds open. For fan training, apple trees with semi-dwarfing rootstocks are best. Again, fans are trained to a series of horizontal wires on a wall or fence, though in this case, the wires should be around 15cm apart. The initial training involves a specific series of steps involving tying in and pruning, which all depend on whether you are starting with a one or two-year-old tree. Apple fans are pruned in late summer, unlike most apples which are pruned in the winter months. This deters the re-growth of unwanted stems and encourages the formation of fruit buds. The aim is to develop a system of short-fruiting spurs on a well-established framework of branches through pruning. 4) Cordon Apple Trees Another option is to train apple trees into single tall and narrow vertical cordons. Training an apple tree as a cordon involves allowing a single main growing stem to grow, with short fruiting spurs to either side. Cordon apples are often grown on a wall, fence or other support structure at a 45° angle, though they can also be grown vertically or trained to meet and form an archway or tunnel over a pathway, which can make an extremely ornamental feature for a garden. Cordon apples can be trained from scratch or purchased pre-trained. “Think about the size of your garden and how big you can let your tree grow,” explains Julie. “Trees on vigorous rootstocks can easily grow 4-6 metres tall and wide, but by choosing more dwarfing stocks you can control this height and keep it smaller, perhaps by growing it along cordons.” A dwarfing rootstock on a spur-bearing is typically used when apple trees will be trained in this way. These trees will need permanent support and must be pruned carefully and correctly to maintain their shape and size. The idea is to have a single main growing stem with short fruiting spurs along the sides, allowing the apple tree to retain a very compact and space-saving form. 5) The Step-Over Form One final option is to train apple trees into a step-over form so that they form low hedging or bed edging that is only around 45-60cm in height. This form is like the lowest tier of an espaliered apple tree, without any of the higher horizontal branches. It will look great around the edges of a vegetable patch or cut flower beds in many gardens. A low support structure is created and branches are trained out sideways from a short vertical stem along wires suspended a short distance above the ground. Any growth trying to grow higher should be curtailed to keep everything growing low to the ground. Understanding the different ways in which apple trees can be trained and supported as well as the different options that are on offer should make it clear just how versatile these trees can be and how space might be found for an apple tree of some kind in almost every garden.
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Training Climbing Roses: 'Try And Tie The Stems More Horizontally Than Vertically'
IN THIS GUIDE What Will Roses Climb On? Choosing The Right Support Structure Preliminary Prep Work Selecting The Rose Canes Train The Canes In Winter Follow-Up Training Aftercare For a full-on cottage garden effect your go-to plant should be a climbing rose. These climbers are prized for being super-floriferous and a well-maintained mature specimen can be covered in blooms by the dozen. Such a stare-worthy climbing rose doesn’t just happen by chance and some foresight, decision-making and training will be called for because, well, a climbing rose isn’t really a climber! You have to make it into a climber and you do that by selectively pruning, trimming and training it, as Philip Harkness from Harkness Roses explains: “Climbers need to be trained as well as pruned. “Try to tie the stems more horizontally than vertically. A horizontal stem will generate lots of lateral flowering shoots along its length. “You will be amazed how much you can bend the stems without breaking them. If they snap, fear not, make a clean cut and it will grow again next summer.” Climbing roses do not have vines, suckers or tendrils and are actually similar to regular rose bushes in that they have canes, except their canes are much longer and are also more flexible. They can easily be confused with rambling roses, with the main difference being that climbers have more of an upright and arcing habit, whereas ramblers have an overall spreading and sprawling growth pattern. Climbing Roses are also distinguished by their repeated blooming. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Gardening gloves, goggles, pruning shears, fastening materials (as described) When To Train Main effort in winter, maintenance may be done any time of the year What Will Roses Climb On? Training a climbing rose is similar to pruning a rose bush or a fruit tree as it too is a multi-year project. So, just what will your rose be trained against? Though it can be any type of structure that presents a tall enough vertical surface, some thought is required for good reasons. An open structure will offer a convenient and readymade option, as the rose’s canes could be tied or fastened to its projections, uprights and crosswise elements. Examples include a summer house, pergola, trellis or any other structure which has sides consisting of lattices, slats or grilles. An unbroken surface, such as the wall of a house or a pillar, will not be as convenient and will require prepping. If it is your first time growing a climbing rose, I’d recommend that you grow and train it against the former type of open structure. Regardless of the type of support, it should be installed before the climbing rose is transplanted into the ground and cannot be installed later, as the risk of damage to the roots is too great. Choosing The Right Support Structure If you have a pre-existing structure on which you will grow and train a climbing rose, then choose a variety of a suitable size and vigour. For example, if your structure is 5m tall, you probably don’t want a variety that will top out at about 3m. Though any plant can regularly be pruned and trimmed to maintain a particular size, would anyone really want to grow ‘Climbing Madame Butterfly’, which sometimes reaches 6m in height, on a 3m lattice? If you are enamoured with a particular variety of climbing rose, then select and install a support structure whose height and breadth will suit the size and vigour of that variety and avoid any more than a slight mismatch between the two. Besides the size of the support structure, you’ll need to be very attentive to its strength and stability, as larger climbing roses eventually become very heavy and can put pressure on the structure. A lightweight and small arbour framework may eventually collapse under the weight of a mature and bulky climbing rose, whilst a standalone trellis covered with a large variety could fall over on a blustery day. If you intend to grow one of the bigger varieties, especially if you live in a region exposed to high winds, consider whether the support structure would show any sign of distress when your plant is fully grown. Preliminary Prep Work Whatever the structure, I’d recommend that you reinforce and anchor it into the ground if you intend to grow a large variety. The most strong and secure structure is probably a boundary or dwelling wall and you can certainly grow and train a climbing rose against these, but you have to prep the wall first. To do so, securely fasten a few lengths of smooth, PVC or vinyl-coated wire or stout fabric cord across the wall, spanning across the area on which you want to train the plant. Do not use standard uncoated wire for climbing roses. You can start with a few rungs, but you will need to keep stringing additional spans as the climbing rose gets taller. These wires or cords should be spaced about 30cm apart vertically and should not be tight against the wall, but semi-taut with a bit of give. These rungs will be what you tie the canes to. Canes are usually grown on and over these rungs, but you can pull them under and behind as well, two-for-one or alternating. If you plan to train it on a pillar, wrap the pillar in PVC-coated or vinyl-coated wire mesh of the smallest gauge (or thickest wire) that you can find. Alternatively, you can tie or tape the canes to the pillar, but this will not be as straightforward. Selecting The Rose Canes Transplant your climbing rose 20-30cm in front of the support structure. Do not prune or train it during the first year; leave it to adapt to its new home and develop. Depending on the initial size of the plant, you should start to prune and train it in the second or third year, though the second year is usually better. The best season to prune and train is in spring, soon after fresh growth and new shoots emerge. Though pruning is typically done once a year, it is perfectly possible, even preferable, to continue to train during the height of summer. Select 5-6 canes to start with. However, if your support structure happens to be a narrow, albeit sturdy, trellis or a pillar, then you would need to start with as few as three canes. Select the strongest, longest, most vigorous and upward-growing canes. Selected canes should be green and flexible and should not have become woody – these canes will make the best climbing simulators. Prune weak, straggly and thin shoots and canes, as well as those that are growing outwards or sideways. Be vigilant year-round for infected or diseased canes so that you can remove them ASAP (and arrange appropriate treatment for the entire plant). Train The Canes In Winter To train the canes, they have to be fastened on the support structure. I strongly recommend using a good quality commercial garden tie wire. Tape is fine, but after a while, it will look ragged and may start to come off after a couple of spells of heavy rain. Gently pull the selected young canes in the desired direction over part of the support structure. All canes should be trained in an upward direction but they need not be completely vertical – between 70° and vertical is the sweet spot for these origin canes. Take an appropriately-sized piece of tie wire and loop it around and through both the cane and the element, go round once more and then twist or tie it. The length of the tie will depend on the thickness of the element the cane will be fastened to. If it is cord or wire, 10cm will be quite enough, but if it is a section of trellis, a considerably longer length will be required. The tie or tape should be tight enough to hold the cane in place but not so tight as to constrict or injure it. A cane should be fastened in this way every 25cm. During the first year, you should need no more than two fasteners for most canes. As for the distance between canes, this should be governed by how far apart the canes originate but you can fan them out depending on the size, especially width, of the structure. You can allow one to rise vertically while training the adjacent one at an angle. During the growing season, observe how the canes are developing. If a cane has shot up and curled away, you may need to fasten it at a higher point, or if a cane’s growth has become weak and looks unhealthy, check for signs of abrasion or injury where you had fastened it. Follow-Up Training The following winter, select two or three new canes and fasten these as outlined above. Prune any unneeded new canes. “The bulk of climbing rose training is best carried in winter at the same time as pruning,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Pruning and training are more easily carried out whilst stems are more visible when bare of leaves. Leaving until into the growing season risks damaging new growth and buds.” The previously-selected canes will have developed branching shoots; these will also need to be selected or pruned. Those that have emerged from the front side of a cane will almost surely need to go, along with those growing in undesirable directions that you deem untrainable. If a selected branching shoot is about pencil-thick or thicker and 25cm or longer, then it should be trained and fastened. Any narrower or shorter, you can let it be. Branching shoots of the appropriate thickness and length should be trained at an appropriate angle; anything from 45-75° will work very well. Thereafter, if the number of trained canes and their selected branches suffices to completely cover the structure, prune new ones that arise. Though training and fastening any cane’s growth spurt is an optional ongoing activity, training and fastening emergent growth is a mandatory spring task. An already-trained cane should be fastened when it has grown 45-50cm from where it was previously fastened. Train and fasten such a cane near (but not at) the tip. At the end of it all, your rose-climbing simulation should end up being spectacular! Aftercare Do keep checking all the ties or tape from time to time. The loss of one fastener here and there will make no difference, but if multiple fasteners on the same cane fall off, it could result in canes falling from the support structure completely. When a cane or a branch has reached the desired height or length on a structure, you will need to trim it and do so every season. Keep in mind that if a cane reaches the top of a structure with a roof or horizontal section and the cane is still vigorous, you may well bend it and fasten it so that it then grows horizontally over the roof. If the support structure is big and broad enough, you may not want to micro-manage your climbing rose after a few years, at which point you could allow nature to take its course. “We should always try to work with nature, not against it,” says Philip. “I still learn new things about roses every year. Each year is different, and every location has its own idiosyncrasies. “Do what works for you, not what a book says you should do. Experiment, learn how different actions affect plants and connect with and be a part of the natural cycle in your garden.” Who knows what kind of unexpected yet aesthetic growth pattern may eventually form?
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Pinguicula (AKA ‘Butterworts’) Growing Guidelines From Carnivorous Expert Megan Webb
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Pinguicula Butterwort Care Guidelines References Pinguicula, also known as ‘Butterworts’, are carnivorous plants that are interesting options to add to a carnivorous plant collection. The sticky, succulent-like leaves on these plants attract and trap the plants’ prey. “My favourite Carnivorous plants are Butterworts, also known as Pinguicula,” shares Julie Kirby, the owner of Triffid Nurseries. “This is purely because I find them pretty, as they have a feminine appearance.” Overview Botanical Name Pinguicula Common Name(s) Butterworts Plant Type Carnivorous Houseplant Native Area Europe, North America, North Asia Hardiness Rating H1C-H6 Foliage Succulent-like sticky, plump leaves Flowers Mostly blue, white or violet When To Plant Year-Round Pinguicula is a genus of largely perennial carnivorous flowering plants. There are around 80 species in total, some of which are native to Europe, North America and North Asia.1 Forming stemless rosettes, these butterworts vary dramatically in their environmental needs and the climate in which they grow, with both tropical and temperate species available. Tropical types retain their carnivorous leaves year-round, whilst temperate types can often form hibernacula (slightly closed buds) during their winter dormancy period.2 Some types within both categories have different types of leaves that they produce depending on the season. To catch their prey, these plants exude a sticky substance that traps prey on their leaves, where they can then be digested. “I have a big thing for photographing carnivorous plants such as butterworts, as their shape and form are fun to examine close up with a macro lens,” shares Garden Photographer Stephen Studd. Here in the British Isles, UK growers can choose to grow a couple of species that are native to our shores: Pinguicula vulgaris (Common Butterwort) or P. grandiflora (Large-Flowered Butterwort). Though these two varieties are most commonly grown under glass rather than outside in gardens, they can also be grown outdoors in the right growing conditions and environment. You can also grow more tender varieties from elsewhere, including popular Mexican varieties, but the native types are obviously hardier than the tropical varieties. How To Grow Pinguicula Pinguicula is not necessarily too challenging to grow, but it is important to remember the environmental conditions that this carnivorous plant requires in order to grow it successfully. “The belief that growing Carnivorous Plants is hard is a huge misconception,” says Julie. “In fact, it’s not hard at all if you follow the care advice available from growers like myself.” Soil Requirements Like other carnivorous plants, butterworts tend to thrive in low-fertility and acidic soils that are moist yet free-draining or poorly drained (depending on the specific species and variety). Propagation Butterworts can often be propagated by sowing seeds as soon as they are ripe. Sow them onto the surface of the growing medium with some gentle heat from a heat mat or heated propagator. These seeds need light to germinate. P. crystalina subsp. hirtiflora With some varieties, it is also possible to divide dormant buds during the late winter months. “Many Pinguicula can be propagated from leaf cuttings,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Gently tease away the leaf from the stem and place on a pot or tray of 2 parts vermiculite to 1 part perlite, making sure to keep the surface damp but not wet. Small plants should result in 1-2 months.” Preferred Environment These plants prefer an environment similar to the climate in which they are found in the wild. Commonly found in boggy wetland environments, some of the hardier native types might be included in a wetland or bog garden outdoors, in full sun or partial shade. Usually, growers should aim to mimic the natural environment of these plants as closely as they can while growing butterworts undercover or indoors in pots, where they need bright, filtered light. Butterwort Care Guidelines Pinguiculas do not tend to be too challenging to care for over time, but you will need to give some thought – not only to where you position your plants – but also to how you water and otherwise care for them over the course of the year. Sunlight As mentioned above, butterworts will usually be grown indoors, where they will require a position in bright but filtered light. Hardier native types grown outdoors in the UK will typically cope in full sun (as long as the conditions remain consistently moist) or in part shade, but cannot cope with shadier conditions. Watering Watering is the most important factor to get right when successfully growing these carnivorous plants. Make sure you understand the conditions required by the butterwort you are growing, as some like more free-draining conditions than others. Water from below, placing a saucer filled with water at the base of the plant pots throughout the summer. Try to use rainwater where possible and filter or boil tap water where it is not. Feeding Like other carnivorous plants, butterworts grow in low-fertility environments and do not require any additional feeding. Overwintering Tender species will need to be kept free from frost and cold temperatures, as some will not cope if temperatures fall below 5°C. P. gigantea Temperate types cope with cold by entering a period of dormancy over the winter months. In winter, when temperate butterwort plants go dormant, less water will be required. At this time of the year, keep the growing medium just damp, but make sure that waterlogging does not occur as this might cause common fungal issues to arise. Common Problems Like other carnivorous plants, these are tough little specimens that can generally cope with a lot and they are not particularly prone to pest or disease problems. However, they can sometimes be bothered by slugs or snails when growing outdoors. Indoors, problems are typically due to shortcomings in the environmental conditions or care. References 1. Pinguicula the Butterworts. (n.d.). Botanical Society of America. Retrieved June 12, 2023, from https://botany.org/home/resources/carnivorous-plants-insectivorous-plants/pinguicula-the-butterworts.html 2. Growing Butterworts. (n.d.). Colorado Carnivorous Plant Society. Retrieved June 12, 2023, from https://coloradocarnivorousplantsociety.com/growing_butterworts.htm
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8 Tips For Growing Radishes In Pots - 'Avoid Crowding' Says Gerald Stratford
IN THIS GUIDE Are Radishes Suited To Container Growing? 1) Larger Planters Mean A Greater Yield 2) “Avoid Crowding” Says Gerald Stratford 3) Use Fertile Soil Or Compost 4) Plant One Seed At A Time 5) Consider Succession Sowing 6) Water Regularly And Harvest Quickly 8) Carefully Consider Sunlight Exposure Summer radishes are wonderfully mild and flavourful with a succulent mouthfeel and are so easy to grow in pots. On the other hand, if you like winter-grown radishes, some cultivars can be grown in containers too, but they might not be so easy to grow in this way. Summer radishes are an excellent crunchy addition to light, cold summer salads, whilst zingy winter radishes are equally excellent in hearty pot-cooked foods. Regardless of which kind of radish you grow, you can rest assured that it will taste twice as good coming from your garden, or from your pots, than from the supermarket. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Container, potting mix, radish seeds, watering can, fertiliser (optional) Are Radishes Suited To Container Growing? Yes, in fact, it is quite easy to grow all varieties of summer radishes in pots and they are often grown in all kinds of containers, including grow bags for the smaller varieties. It is also possible to grow some varieties of winter radishes in containers, though this is not commonly done. If you are new to growing winter radishes in pots, I suggest you start with a variety that is not as large as most and does not take as much time to mature for harvest as most winter varieties do. There is little point in attempting to grow a very large type, such as ‘Longipinnatus’, in a container. 1) Larger Planters Mean A Greater Yield We suggest that you grow your radishes in a planter or tub rather than a pot. Whatever container you use, it should have drainage holes. The advantage of using a planter is that you can sow an entire row of radishes with confidence that they will have ample room and depth, which will result in a successful harvest. If you use a standard 60cm planter, which is one of the smaller ones, you’ll be able to grow 16-20 summer radishes in a single row. 2) “Avoid Crowding” Says Gerald Stratford Avoid squeezing them in too close because if you do, hot and sunny weather may cause crowded plants to bolt. “I’d recommend growing radishes in a 10-litre bucket,” says Gerald Stratford, Garden Blogger and ‘The King of Veg’. “Make sure there are some holes in the bottom for drainage, then fill it with compost.” Winter radishes vary widely in size and time to maturity, so it is not possible to specify a particular size of container. Also, these large root vegetables are good to grow singly, one to its own half-conical pot, much like a flowering plant, though you can use a planter of sufficient depth to grow 5-6 in. As for material, anything is fine for summer radishes. For reasons of breathability and temperature stability, we recommend traditional terracotta or clay pots or wooden planters for winter radishes. 3) Use Fertile Soil Or Compost Radishes grow best in fairly fertile soil that is of a friable texture and drains very well. Soil should be free of clods and stones, particularly for summer radishes in small pots. You can make your own soil or use commercial compost. To make your own, start with a loam amended with some combination of grit and perlite to facilitate drainage. Amend it with well-rotted manure by 30-35% of the volume of the loam. You can substitute the manure with organic compost. The best soil pH is one that is slightly acidic, though a neutral soil will also work. 4) Plant One Seed At A Time “With your finger, make a snake circle across the top of the pot, so you’ve got a snake-shaped trench around 1 inch deep,” shares Gerald. “Get your packet of radish seeds and plant 1 seed at a time, 2.5cm apart.” “If you just sprinkled all of your radish seeds in a trench in the garden, you would have loads of foliage and no radish to eat, so spacing is important,” Gerald advises. If sowing in a planter, instead of sowing and growing in a straight line, stagger the seeds. In effect, this will result in two offset rows. This technique will maximise spacing between the maturing veggies and utilise the planter’s space to the fullest. 5) Consider Succession Sowing If you intend to use more than a single container, you can succession-sow radish seeds by sowing a small number every 10 days or so. This will enable you to reap multiple harvests of fresh radishes. Winter radish seeds should be sown 1-2cm deep. If you grow one of the not-so-large winter varieties in a wide enough planter, space the seeds by 15-20cm. Summer radish seeds may be sown from March through to early August, whilst winter radishes should be sown between July and September. 6) Water Regularly And Harvest Quickly Regular watering is of utmost importance, especially for summer radishes. “Water in your trench, but don’t overwater it – you shouldn’t have to water it for a further week after the first watering,” adds Gerald. “You’ll get radishes within 30 days. It is so quick.” As Gerald suggests, the great majority of summer radish varieties are ready for harvest in 4 weeks, though it’s better to harvest a little too early than a little too late! Winter radishes take much longer to reach maturity and have very different times to harvest, ranging from 8-12 weeks. You can plant several summer radishes in a medium-sized pot. 8) Carefully Consider Sunlight Exposure Both summer and winter radishes may be kept in a site that receives full sun in the UK or, if that is not available, a partially shaded spot. However, during hot and sunny weather, summer radishes must get some shade. You should not grow summer radishes in containers during the height of summer if the weather forecast indicates that the temperature will be above 25°C. Be sure to water summer radishes regularly so that the soil stays moist, as the soil should not be allowed to dry out, especially in hot weather. “Little and often in the cooler months of the growing season is best when sowing radishes,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is to avoid a glut when sown at the same time, but also to avoid bolting (flowering) in hot weather, which results in a bitter taste.” Winter radishes need regular watering too, but if the soil gets dry for a day or two, no harm will be done. However, if the soil remains dry for much longer or regularly dries out, the radishes may well become stunted or will not develop the distinctive sharp or potent flavour that is their hallmark. Summer radishes need no fertiliser, but if you are growing winter radishes and are doubtful about the richness or quality of your soil, simply amend or feed one time with the appropriate quantity of vegetable fertiliser.
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