Growing
You Can Grow A New Barberry Bush From Your Existing Plant - Here Are 3 Methods
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Take Cuttings From An Existing Plant 2) Grow From Seed 3) Layering Berberis, commonly known as ‘Barberries’, are a group of evergreen and deciduous shrubs that are widely grown for their attractive foliage and ability to entice wildlife into the garden. Growing berberis via propagation can prove challenging, with different methods recommended for different species. Luckily, we’re here to explain all. Propagating new berberis plants can be achieved by following one of three methods: Taking berberis cuttings from an existing plant. Growing berberis from seed after a period of cold stratification. Layering from existing plants, by wounding and pegging an existing stem under the soil. These different processes are explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Secateurs, a knife, pots or seed trays, propagator, pegs 1) Take Cuttings From An Existing Plant Semi-ripe nodal, heel or mallet cuttings taken in summer can be used to propagate some deciduous and evergreen berberis with good success. Nodal cuttings can be used for vigorous species by taking 10-15cm lengths of new growth about 1cm thick from mid-summer until autumn. Heel cuttings are widely used due to their chance of striking and are taken from thin green side shoots that are gently pulled away from the main stem, taking a heel of slightly woody stem with them. Mallet cuttings can be used to propagate thin-stemmed varieties, including the popular Japanese Berberis thunbergii. These are side-shoots of current season’s growth which include a small piece of the older stem they are joined to. Cut 1cm of older stem above and below where the side shoot joins, the base of which can be inserted in the potting medium. With all semi-ripe cuttings, choose healthy material and use a pair of clean and sharp secateurs or a knife. Place the cuttings in a free-draining cuttings mix, cover to prevent drying out and keep the soil moist until they root. “Try to prevent cuttings from touching each other, as any rotting could easily transfer this way,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Once rooted, the cuttings can be potted up individually and grown on over winter under cover, ready to plant out the following year. “Check for rooting by looking through the holes in the bottom of the pot,” adds Peter. 2) Grow From Seed Berberis seeds can be sourced from online suppliers or harvested from existing plants in the autumn, but will need a period of cold stratification to germinate. However, keep in mind that, due to hybridisation, growing from collected seeds may not produce plants true to their parent. Once collected, the seeds can be sown straight away into trays or pots filled with a seed-sowing compost mix and placed in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame over winter. If sowing purchased berberis seeds, it is advisable to follow the timings above to encourage the seeds to break dormancy and germinate. Germination can take several months, but once large enough to handle, the seedlings can be potted individually and only planted out when they reach a suitable size. 3) Layering Another technique that can be used for propagating berberis is layering. This method is commonly used for plants and shrubs that do not take easily from cuttings. Evergreen berberis shrubs are best layered in spring, whilst deciduous species are often layered in the autumn. To propagate by layering, select a healthy and long stem that can easily be bent down to touch the soil. Using a clean and sharp knife, carefully wound the outside of the chosen stem 20-40cm from the stem’s tip at a leaf joint and peg the wounded section just under the surface of the soil, with the tip free to grow upright. “To make a wound, I usually make a shallow flap on the edge of the stem with my knife and I prop this open with a small, dry twig,” explains Peter. “I use a pencil or dibber, rubbed on clothing to generate some static, to transfer a small amount of rooting powder inside this wound.” After 8-12 months, the layered stem should have produced roots from the wound and can be separated from the parent plants and potted up to grow. Whichever method of propagation is chosen, this process will take time, and it can be at least 2-3 years until the new plants might bloom. However, propagating can be a very rewarding and cost-effective way of producing new berberis specimens.
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Fixing Leggy Kalanchoe Plants - Keep An Eye Out For These Warnings Signs
IN THIS GUIDE About Kalanchoes Early Warning Signals How To Fix The Problem 1) Trim Correctly 2) Move The Plant Say Goodbye To Legginess! References Where light is concerned, Kalanchoes can be quite fussy. When it’s too bright, the plant can wilt or get leaf scorch, but when it’s too dark, that’s when the real trouble begins and the plants may become leggy. Simply put, insufficient light causes a Kalanchoe to stretch toward the weak or transient light source and it does so by elongating its stems as the days pass. Ergo, legginess. Be aware that even if a poorly-lit room is well-lit from a single strong source of light, such as a single window or single set of grow lights, a Kalanchoe’s growth may well be biased towards that light source. Since Kalanchoes are usually treated as indoor plants, their light needs can go unmet. So, let’s look into how you may be able to catch the onset of legginess before it really begins, and what to do about it if you’re a little too late. About Kalanchoes Kalanchoes are succulents with shimmering green leaves and an abundance of small, rigid, long-lasting flowers in bright pinks, oranges and reds. The word Kalanchoe technically refers to a Botanical genus.1 This genus includes many dozens of species but only a few of these are grown by gardeners, perhaps the most widely grown being K. blossfeldiana. These are informally subsumed within the same generic name – Kalanchoe.2 Because these denizens of the tropics are not tolerant of the cold, they are commonly grown as houseplants in the UK, and, of course, that’s where the trouble begins – sub-optimal light. Early Warning Signals Before your Kalanchoe actually becomes a leggy, unsightly mess, it may well send out a few early warning signals, and these will occur most likely in the following order: Multiple growing tips will point towards the light source. The upper leaves will start to curl downward though note this can occur due to lack of water or sun-scorch too. The leaves will lose their rich green shade and adopt a sickly yellowish colour. Plant growth overall will become unbalanced, becoming biased toward the light source. Keep an eye open for these signs so that you make that proverbial stitch in time. How To Fix The Problem What you need to do is to correctly trim the leggy plant and shift it to a spot where it gets the right kind of light and the right amount of light. 1) Trim Correctly Sterilise a pair of secateurs to trim the plant. Target those stems that are straggly, sagging or dangling off the rim of the pot. These will have open stems between sets of leaves. Trim off anything from one-third to two-thirds of the lengths of such stems, cutting to just above a pair of leaves which are near the centre of the plant. The section that is left behind should still have at least one set of leaves. Do not discard the trimmings – Kalanchoes propagate easily from cuttings! Those stems that are getting elongated but are not exactly leggy don’t need to be trimmed. Simply pinch or cut off the tips to halt further elongation. Kalanchoes can re-flower surprisingly soon after a trim. 2) Move The Plant Put the trimmed Kalanchoe in a spot where it gets a little direct sunlight and plenty of indirect light from multiple sides. A spot where the plant gets a few hours of morning sunlight in a spacious, well-lit room with multiple windows is ideal. You can utilise gauze curtains (to diffuse harsh, direct sunlight) and reflective materials in your room, such as windowpanes and glass cabinets, to best position that struggling Kalanchoe. Be careful not to reflect bright light back at a Kalanchoe or scorching will occur. If all else fails, there are always grow lights, under which Kalanchoes do very well. If you take this route, we have a hot tip for you in the final section. Finally, do not suddenly move the plant from a dark or low-light spot to a sunlit spot. Make the adjustment gradually, similar to the process of hardening. Say Goodbye To Legginess! The remedial course of action spelt out above will bush-ify your leggy Kalanchoe in good time. To summarise, only a few hours of early morning direct sunlight, ample indirect sunlight, non-directed diffused lighting and protection from the afternoon sun or harsh sunlight will work wonders for Kalanchoes. Here’s a final tip. I had this problem with my trailing Crassulas and thought up an easy preventive: simply rotate the pot (in the same direction) by a quarter circle once or twice a week or do so every time you water the plant. This way, even if there is a single strong source of light, the ill effects will be reduced or ameliorated. “Even with good light levels, these plants will eventually become leggy, so I tend to prune them – following the advice above – twice a year,” explains Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “For mine, I do this after the spring flowering, with a harder prune in late spring. I then do a light prune again in late summer, after any re-flowering over the summer.” References 1. Petruzzello, M. (1999, May 4). Kalanchoe | Description, Major Species, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 29, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/kalanchoe 2. Kalanchoe: An Overview. (n.d.). Science Direct; Elsevier BV. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-437651-9.50022-1
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10 Sustainable Ways To Support Lathyrus Plants From The National Sweet Pea Society
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Wigwam – Bamboo Canes 2) Wigwam – Natural Branches 3) Vertical Canes Planted In Rows 4) Branching Twig Supports 5) Arch Trellis 6) Obelisk Trellis 7) A-Frame Support 8) String & Post Trellis 9) Chicken Wire Supports 10) Other Upcycled Materials Sweet peas are a wonderful option for new and old gardeners alike. They are relatively easy to grow and, as nitrogen fixers, can be useful in a vegetable garden as well as in ornamental schemes. If you decide to grow sweet peas in your garden, no matter where you choose to grow them, one of the questions you will have to answer is how you will provide these vining plants with support. “Ensure there is plenty of room for the roots to grow, do not plant too close together and give them enough support to grow up,” advises Carole Tate, Committee Member at the National Sweet Pea Society. “They are annuals and put on a lot of growth in the year.” Fortunately, sweet pea support ideas are numerous and varied. The supports do not need to be as strong and sturdy as they do for some other climbers that you might grow in your garden, as the plants are not too large, heavy or vigorous. There are many different support options that you might purchase for your sweet peas, but the most sustainable and eco-friendly options to consider are those that you can make yourself, from natural or reclaimed materials. Below is a list of just ten of the many sustainable support ideas for sweet peas that you might like to consider. 1) Wigwam – Bamboo Canes The first and most common option is to create a wigwam for sweet peas to climb up. To create a wigwam structure, many people will use a number of bamboo canes. The canes can be threaded together with natural twine to which the sweet peas can cling. As long as you create a cane wigwam of the right size, the structure itself can be entirely covered by the stems and flowers of your sweet peas and become an attractive feature in your garden. Bamboo can be a sustainable material, especially if you have your own growing in your garden to harvest. However, before you rush out and buy bamboo canes, remember that there are other natural materials that you might already have on hand. 2) Wigwam – Natural Branches Any natural branches pruned from trees or shrubs in your garden might also potentially be used to create a simple wigwam structure, as long as they are long and relatively straight. Hazel and willow are woods that are commonly used, since these can be coppiced or pollarded for a supply of thin, long and straight stems. You might also be able to use other branches that you happen to have access to in your garden. As above, these branches can be held together with a natural string or twine, but you might also go one step further and wind thin, pliable branches between the uprights to create a woven structure for sweet peas to cling to as they grow. 3) Vertical Canes Planted In Rows Wigwam-style supports can be a great choice for small spaces, but sometimes you might wish to incorporate sweet peas into your garden design in a way that allows them to sit alongside rows of common vegetable crops. When growing sweet peas in a row, you might simply create a row of canes or branches by inserting them into the ground. You might tie in sweet peas to these support stakes as they grow or string twine between these canes for the plants to cling onto. “I’ve got perennial sweet peas in my garden that don’t smell as good, but you can cut them and keep them and they come back every year, making them so easy to grow,” shares Humaira Ikram, a Garden Designer. Sweet peas growing in this way, as Humaira suggests, would be especially easy to cut back every year. 4) Branching Twig Supports Another idea that I enjoy for a more naturalistic feel is to use a series of twigs with many branches pushed into the soil or growing medium. The sweet peas can cling to the different twigs at different heights as they grow. This is a method of support commonly used for garden peas that we eat, but it can also work very effectively for sweet peas, giving a natural and rustic feel when these flowers are incorporated into the garden. 5) Arch Trellis Large or small, arch-type trellis supports are also a great choice for sweet peas and can look amazing when the flowers are in full bloom. Of course, if the arch is especially tall, the sweet peas will not likely grow over the entire arch. However, when combined with other flowering climbers like roses or clematis, you could create impressive displays with blooms over a large portion of the year if you choose your plants carefully. Creating an arch trellis that you can walk through will allow you to surround yourself with the sweet peas’ delightful scent. The arch might cover a pathway or be placed over the top of a seating area or other outdoor recreational space. 6) Obelisk Trellis If space is limited, obelisk-style support can work well in gardens of a range of different styles. Again, you do not necessarily have to go and buy one. These simple structures can be relatively easy and straightforward to make. You can make your own obelisk support with reclaimed wood and some very basic woodworking or joinery skills. By making your own, you can do the right thing and cut your consumption and your carbon footprint. 7) A-Frame Support Whether you use bamboo canes, natural branches, reclaimed wood or other materials, A-framed trellis structures are also a popular choice when growing climbing plants, including sweet peas. Remember, sweet peas can and should be grown on trellis supports not only on their own, but alongside a number of other climbing plants. You might use them alongside ornamental edibles for a display that is not only attractive, but also provides you with an edible yield. Of course, sweet peas themselves cannot be eaten, but you might grow them alongside runner beans, which can. Just make sure that your sweet peas get enough light by placing them on the southern side of the tall and vigorous beans. 8) String & Post Trellis No matter what size or shade of structure you create to support your sweet peas, creating a simple framework means that you can use taut string between these as support for your sweet peas. Remember to use a natural twine, which, if you are feeling adventurous and have the time, you can even make yourself using nettles or other fibre plants from your garden. 9) Chicken Wire Supports The upright supports in a structure designed for sweet pea vines might also have chicken wire or another mesh placed between them, providing plenty of places to which the vines can cling. Using pieces of reclaimed wire or mesh can be ideal, and, again, help you make sure that you do not need to buy anything new. 10) Other Upcycled Materials There are plenty of other cool ways to upcycle old materials and items to make support structures for the sweet peas in your garden. One example involves using old bicycle wheel rims and spokes to create a support structure for a small garden area or container garden. Use your imagination and look around you, and you may find plenty of other things that you can upcycle and repurpose to form support for sweet peas and other climbing plants. “Regardless of your chosen support, aim for 20-30cm between plants,” adds Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. “I find it easiest to have one plant per cane, unless you have sown your seeds in small groups and prising them apart would cause too much disturbance. Remember, sweet peas hate root disturbance.”
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12 Edible Climbing Plants For Fences With Kitchen Gardener Stephanie Hafferty
IN THIS GUIDE Annual Climbers 1) Squashes, Pumpkins & Cucumbers 2) Climbing Beans 3) Garden Peas 4) Hyacinth Beans 5) Nasturtiums Perennial Climbers 6) Hardy Kiwi ‘Issai’ 7) Potato Beans 8) Hops 9) Blue Passion Flower 10) Fruiting Currants 11) Berries 12) Grapes ‘Brant’ Whenever we are choosing plants for our gardens, it is important to choose the right plants for the right places. We need to think about which plants will thrive in our particular gardens, in the environmental conditions that we and nature provide in a particular spot. When choosing climbing plants for fences, the decision-making process should be no different. There are also other things, of course, that we should bear in mind when choosing climbing plants for any situation. For one thing, we need to consider whether or not the fence in question is tall and sturdy enough to support the growth of the climbers or vines we are considering. Secondly, we should think about what else a particular climber for a fence might be able to provide to us. We should think about what we want the plant to achieve in the garden and also, potentially, what yields it might provide. Personally, when I pick climbing plants to grace a fence, I often think first about edible options – because when we choose a climbing plant that can provide edible yields, we can have a productive garden as well as a beautiful one. “I love to grow edibles and grow a huge range of different edible plants from salad leaves to fruit trees,” shares Stephanie Hafferty, an Organic Gardener and Author. “My favourite is always whatever is the new taste that week, such as the first peas in spring or the first taste of a fresh raspberry pulled from the garden.” To help you create your own edible garden paradise, here are some edible climbing plants to consider. You can also paint the fence in between your plantings! Annual Climbers First of all, if you have a fence and are looking for climbing plants that will be welcome additions to your garden during the summer months, looking at annual climbers may be a good idea. These will all thrive in a sunny spot, so a south-facing fence could be ideal for their growth. They will not last more than a single season in your garden but can add a lot and provide you with a prodigious quantity of food. Choosing annuals for summer growing against a sunny fence can be a good idea if the fence is not particularly sturdy or would not be suitable for more vigorous and bigger perennial plants, which cover it constantly year in and year out. 1) Squashes, Pumpkins & Cucumbers BOTANICAL NAME: Cucurbita spp. HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer First of all you might consider the numerous squash, pumpkin and cucumber options within the Cucurbitaceae plant family. There are many edible options that you might grow on supports against a fence and this can be one great way to make the most of every inch of space in your garden for sustainable food production. With certain fences, the fence itself might be the support structure for these annual climbers. In other cases, you might affix support wires or trellis structures to the fence to support the plants. In either case, these plants can look good and be productive when cared for correctly in your garden, but do bear in mind that fruit can be very heavy. 2) Climbing Beans BOTANICAL NAME: Phaseolus ssp. HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: purple, white, red, yellow and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Another option that could be great for a sunny fence is climbing beans. There is a wide range of different climbing beans in the Phaseolus genus that you might consider, including many cultivars of Phaseolus vulgaris. You might also consider growing runner beans (P. coccineus), which is another great and very productive option for UK gardens that can also be extremely attractive, producing scarlet flowers over the summer months. 3) Garden Peas BOTANICAL NAME: Pisum sativum HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: white, pink or purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Another annual climbing plant you might consider placing up against a sunny fence is the common garden pea. Peas can be grown up a fence or a trellis structure and will grasp on with tendrils to support themselves. If you have never grown your own peas before, then you will be amazed by just how sweet they can be when you pick them straight from your garden. 4) Hyacinth Beans BOTANICAL NAME: Lablab purpureus HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERS: purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Another edible climber which is ornamental and productive is the hyacinth bean. This is a perennial climber, but it is tender and is therefore commonly grown as a summer annual in cooler climates like here in the British Isles. It produces pea-like flowers amid dark green leaves which are followed by edible green pods that are often flushed with a purplish hue. Fast-growing and twining, it will grow well in full sun on a sheltered south or west-facing fence, in moist but well-drained soil. 5) Nasturtiums BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum spp. HARDINESS RATING: H2-H5 FLOWERS: orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Another annual climber with great edible potential is the nasturtium. The plant has edible leaves and flowers which are great in salads. The flower buds can also be used like capers. Choose a nasturtium and you can enjoy blooms to pick within the garden space for a long period over the growing season. There are several different nasturtiums that will climb happily against a fence. Perennial Climbers Of course, if you do not wish to sow climbers anew each year to cover your fence or if the site is a little too shaded for annual production, then there are plenty of perennial climbers that you might consider. Make sure that your fence is well-constructed and sturdy enough for the plants in question when choosing a perennial. Perennial plants will come back each year and are a sustainable choice. In the right spot, these plants can also potentially provide you with a lot of food, as well as cover a fence in your garden. Here are some edible perennial climbers for fences that you might consider. 6) Hardy Kiwi ‘Issai’ BOTANICAL NAME: Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer The hardy kiwi is an attractive deciduous climber which can work well in a sheltered and sunny position, providing fruits and visual appeal when grown against a fence. A compact and self-fertile option (meaning that you do not need to grow both male and female plants), ‘Issai’ is a great choice for UK gardens. This plant grows best in fertile and moist but well-drained soil, which is neutral to acidic, in full sun and with shelter from the winds. 7) Potato Beans BOTANICAL NAME: Apios americana HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: red and brown FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn This is another interesting perennial edible climber to consider. It is the tubers of the plant that are edible, forming below the slender vines with scented flowers borne in the late summer and autumn. The flowers are pea-like in form and reddish-brown in colour. Grow these climbers, which can reach over 2.5m in height, in moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. They are H6 hardy and should come back each year over a number of seasons. “Do not confuse this plant with the potato vine, Solanum laxum or Solanum jasminoides, which are poisonous,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. 8) Hops BOTANICAL NAME: Humulus lupulus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This is another interesting herbaceous climbing plant to consider for a fence. It will die back to the ground each winter but grow tall again the following year. This vigorous climber can grow very tall in the right location and is traditionally used in making beer. Grow hops in moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade on a fence with a south or west-facing aspect. The location should be sheltered and care should be taken that the soil does not dry out too much, especially in a sunnier spot. 9) Blue Passion Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Passiflora caerulea HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: blue, white and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Blue passionflowers can, in the right location (which is mild and sheltered enough), be an evergreen, retaining their leaves year-round. However, it will require a very mild location here and will lose its leaves in many parts of the country if not moved undercover in winter. The flowers are dramatic and look wonderful against a sunny fence in many gardens, and there is also the added bonus of edible fruits if all goes well. 10) Fruiting Currants BOTANICAL NAME: Ribes spp. HARDINESS RATING: H5-H6 FLOWERS: yellow, green, pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring Another option that you might not have considered is that, rather than growing an edible climber on a fence, you might be able to train fruit bushes up and against it. If you are looking for fruit bushes then some of your best options are in the Ribes family. You might grow red or white currants, blackcurrants or gooseberries. “I would recommend the Jostaberry, which has impressively sized fruit, with the best qualities of both blackcurrants and gooseberries,” shares Peter. These can all be great options for covering a fence, as well as great options for a food-producing garden. 11) Berries BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus spp. HARDINESS RATING: H5-H6 FLOWERS: yellow, white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Other marvellous soft fruits to grow in your garden are, of course, those in the Rubus genus, especially raspberries, blackberries and hybrid berries like boysenberries or tayberries. “Personally, I find tayberries to have the best taste and a vigorous habit,” Peter says. These cane fruits might also be trained to grow against a fence in your garden. There are plenty of great cultivars to consider, including thornless varieties, and a sturdy and strong enough fence with support wires could be sufficient to support the weight of these large and productive plants. 12) Grapes ‘Brant’ BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis ‘Brant’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: green FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Last but certainly not least, you should not overlook one of the most obvious edible vines – grapes. There are grape varieties that can grow outside in the UK and you might potentially train the variety ‘Brant’ to grow up a sturdy fence in a garden. Of course, if you’re growing grapes up a fence, you will need to make sure that it is in as mild, sheltered and sunny a spot as possible, with fertile and moist yet free-draining soil conditions. There are many other climbing plants for fences, depending on what type of fence we are talking about and where it is located. However, considering edible options could be a good place to begin to offer something extra in the garden.
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Ground Elder: This Problem Plant Can Actually Be Useful If You Control Its Spread
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Ground Elder? Why Is It A Problem? How Did Ground Elder Get Into Your Garden? How To Identify It Removing Ground Elder How To Dispose Of Ground Elder Safely References Ground elder is a problem that could turn into an opportunity. This well-known weed is hard to eradicate, but you should ask yourself if you really need to get rid of it completely… It is often considered to be one of the most problematic garden weeds, as it is very difficult to get rid of. However, as we will explain in this guide, while we may not always want it in certain spots and will likely want to control it carefully, it can be a very useful plant to have around. What Is Ground Elder? Ground elder is a flowering perennial in the Apiaceae (carrot) plant family called Aegopodium podagraria.1 It is also known by a number of other names, such as ‘Herb Gerard’, ‘Goutweed’ and ‘Bishop’s Weed’. The name ground elder does not come from any familial relationship to the elder plant (Sambucus), but rather from the superficial similarities between the foliage and flowers of these two plants. The plant is native to mainland Europe and parts of Asia and is believed to have been introduced to the UK from the continent in the Roman era or perhaps by monks during the middle ages.2 Why Is It A Problem? Ground elder is largely considered a problem because of its propensity to spread rapidly and to outcompete other plants. As a perennial plant, it will not die over winter and will come back year after year. Ground elder can spread very rapidly by means of rhizomes below the soil, which spread out for long distances and delve deeply below the soil. When cut, these rhizomes can grow into new plants from even the tiniest fragment. The plant can also spread by means of seeds if the plants are allowed to flower. How Did Ground Elder Get Into Your Garden? Though ground elder can spread by seed, it is most commonly introduced to gardens accidentally by rhizomes which spread under fence lines, hedges or because tiny portions of the plant were imported in composts or manures. How To Identify It Ground elder is usually first spotted in spring when young shoots with furled leaves burst up through the soil and open out. These leaves look like the leaves of an elder tree and, if you try to pull them up, you will find it is connected to a long white rhizome system. In late spring and summer, tall stalks will appear, which support flat umbels of white flowers which look a little like elderflowers. Removing Ground Elder When gardeners are faced with beds taken over by this weed, the first instinct will usually be to remove and kill it altogether. However, eradicating this plant entirely can be challenging and may not always be beneficial. Instead, it can be beneficial to consider the uses of this plant and to control its further spread using organic methods. 1) Organic Methods I have ground elder in my forest garden and around the edges of other parts of my property, as it was here when we moved in. Rather than seeing it as a problem, I view it as a useful plant, as this is one of the edible weeds which I value on my property. As they first unfurl, the young leaves from the soil make a great stir fry in spring and our chickens also eat them. Both our own harvesting and the chickens foraging helps to prevent this plant from spreading too excessively, but where it does grow, I mostly find it a useful ground cover plant. On occasion, the ground elder will find its way to the edges of a cultivated area where I would prefer it not to spread. When the shoots emerge, I carefully trace back and remove the rhizome and plant from the soil. Manual removal can work for small spaces, but you do have to be careful and make sure you remove all the rhizome since, as mentioned above, the plant can regrow from even the smallest piece. To eradicate ground elder from a larger growing area, you will need to remove and temporarily rehouse any other plants that you wish to keep, then carefully pull up the ground elder, trying not to break the rhizomes. “Wash the roots of any plants you have lifted and carefully untangle any rhizomes growing through them,” explains Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. Afterwards, sift through the soil judiciously to make sure it does not contain any more pieces, before replanting your chosen plants. Some people will use black plastic sheeting to cover the soil, though I would not recommend this method, as the soil below will be degraded by this and soil life will be impacted. In any case, the black plastic would have to be in place for several years to be effective. In either case, if there is ground elder on an adjacent property, it will come back. You will need to sink a barrier that descends to at least 50cm below the soil to prevent this, perhaps even more. So, the best option is usually to tolerate the presence of ground elder and even learn to value its presence. 2) Growing Plants To Smother It Ground elder creeping in around the edges of a garden can be less problematic if you simply embrace its presence and restrict its thuggish growth by growing other plants which can compete with it and deduce its preponderance. Many woody shrubs or trees, which can cope with the same conditions of shade, will be perfectly happy growing amid ground elder and, through the competition and increased shade, will somewhat restrict its growth. Planting vigorous ground cover plants can also help in outcompeting ground elder and making sure it does not take over entirely. Some plants to try in an area where ground elder is creeping in are Acanthus mollis, hardy cranesbills, Ajuga and – in larger spaces – very vigorous ground cover shrubs like Rubus tricolor and other ground cover raspberries. Mint is another good ground cover for shade which can happily co-exist with ground elder, and alpine strawberries can be another good choice. Ground elder will likely still emerge between other plants, but the overall effect can be pleasing and great for wildlife. As well as enjoying an edible yield in spring, the white flowers can also be very visually pleasing in a shady spot. In a lawn or grassland, ground elder will gradually be reduced by mowing. 3) Chemical Methods Chemical weedkillers are rarely effective in eradicating ground elder entirely and, of course, bring huge environmental and health concerns. Keep your garden organic and learn to live with weeds, and your garden will be much healthier and will continue to be beautiful and productive over the years to come. How To Dispose Of Ground Elder Safely When pulling the ground elder stems, leaves and rhizomes from the ground, remember that this material should not be added to a composting system. Instead, place everything into a bucket of water, along with other weeds, to make a liquid plant feed. Once they have rotted down in the water, you can safely add the strained goop to your composting system and use the liquid as a multi-purpose feed. You can also place the material somewhere to dry out and then burn it along with woody material. The wood ash can also be used in moderation in your garden. References 1. Aegopodium podagraria L. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved May 24, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:5849-2 2. Ground-elder. (n.d.). Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.gloucestershirewildlifetrust.co.uk/wildlife-explorer/wildflowers/ground-elder
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Transplanting Dogwood? Minimise Root Damage By Pruning Top Growth Says Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE When To Transplant Dogwood Siting Your Dogwood Shrub How To Transplant Dogwood Dogwoods are shrubs and small trees in the Cornus genus. There are options grown primarily for their flowers and others grown for their berries, autumn foliage or vibrant winter stems. Dogwood shrubs can be transplanted at any time of year, but they might struggle to reestablish well if the weather is too dry and hot. The time to plant or move them is typically between autumn and spring, during the dormant period, as bare-root plants. Ideally, these shrubs are best moved in the autumn if possible. To transplant a dogwood: Determine and prepare a suitable new location for the dogwood you are growing. Lift the plant from its current position (ideally in autumn). Using a spade, create your new planting hole. Place the plant in its new position and firm the soil around it. Water well and apply an organic mulch. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Spade, watering can, dogwood plant, mulch When To Transplant Autumn When To Transplant Dogwood The best time to transplant a dogwood shrub is in the autumn. While it is possible to move one through most of the year, this is the time that will make it easiest for the plant to become well-established in its new position. Siting Your Dogwood Shrub Where precisely you should place a dogwood shrub for best results depends on which species of Cornus you are dealing with. The Cornus varieties that are grown for their vibrant stems in winter usually need a position in full sun with moist to damp soil. Other types typically thrive in a sheltered as well as sunny position, with moist but well-drained soil that has a neutral to acidic pH. It is important to know which dogwood you are growing so that you can match the new location to that plant’s specific growing and environmental needs, as this varied group of shrubs and small trees can have a range of distinct needs. How To Transplant Dogwood Ease a spade or fork in and under the edges of the existing plant, trying to lift and keep intact as much of the root system as possible. Lift the plant up from the soil using the spade. Dig your new planting hole large enough to comfortably accommodate the root system of the existing dogwood plant. Place the plant in the soil, making sure that it sits at the same depth that it did in its previous position. Firm the surrounding soil gently back around the plant with your heel. To make sure that the plant gets off to the best possible start in its new location, water in well. Then, spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant, ensuring that this is not touching the trunk or the stems. The mulch will provide slow-release fertility, suppress weed growth and, crucially, help conserve moisture in the soil. “Transplanting inevitably causes some root damage, so the plant’s ability to anchor itself and take up water is affected,” shares Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. “To compensate for this, prune back the top growth. If transplanting in autumn, this may be a light prune of around a third or a harder prune during drier summer weather. “These plants’ knack for suckering means that young suckers can be lifted from one clump and transplanted somewhere else to establish a new clump, following a similar method. You will need to cut their point of attachment roughly 30cm from where the stems emerge.”
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Pruning Dogwood Can Help Maximise The Ornamental Appeal Of Their Colourful Stems
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Dogwood? When To Prune Dogwood The Pruning Process Hard Pruning Dogwood Dogwood shrubs, not to be mixed up with dogwood trees, are unusual and extremely interesting plants with a very special twist. Though the vast majority of their varieties display variegated or wonderfully coloured foliage, produce an abundance of tiny flowers and even bear little berries, they are valued most for their technicolour stems. It is because of these stems that these fully hardy deciduous shrubs provide winter colour you can enjoy the sight of a decorative latticework of crimson or golden stems breaking the monotony of the grey sky above and the white snow beneath. It must be said that you don’t need to prune a dogwood shrub. However, pruning is highly desirable and can help to maximise the shrub’s ornamental appeal, including the stems’ brilliant colourings. Underneath we guide you on the whys, whens, and hows on pruning dogwood shrubs. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs or pruning shears, occasionally a pruning saw When To Prune February is best, though anytime during winter dormancy will suffice Why Prune Dogwood? Dogwood shrubs, like many members of the plant kingdom, respond to pruning with a burst of fresh growth. The most richly-coloured stems on a dogwood shrub are the young growth and the greyest, dullest ones are the oldest. This is one reason that pruning can be beneficial for these shrubs, as you can get rid of the least colourful and ornamental stems and replace them with new brightly-coloured ones. These shrubs can also become straggly and unkempt or look unbalanced as a result of uneven growth or a poor pruning job last time around. A proper trim will improve the aesthetics of a dogwood shrub by restoring size, shape and balance. Another reason to prune arises when dense, overlapping growth causes these shrubs to become congested. Pruning unwanted stems to reduce congestion and open up the shrub is another way to restore or enhance its ornamental appeal. When To Prune Dogwood Instead of waiting until your dogwood shrub needs pruning, best practice suggests that you give it an annual prune. This can be done anytime during winter dormancy, but the ideal timeframe is late February, as this will allow you to enjoy the sight of those colourful stems during the winter. Annual maintenance pruning should not be done when the shrub is in its first year, so only prune from the second year onwards. Similarly, a hard prune or cutback should not be attempted when the shrub is one or two years old – you may do so only after it is three years old or more. The Pruning Process Use a pair of sharp secateurs and sterilise the blades with diluted rubbing alcohol or diluted bleach before using. Prune down to the ground any stems that are dead, diseased or growing at a sharp angle. Select the weaker of any which rub together, and remove these too. Also, cut down stems that are old. They will be greyish and will display a rough texture. “You can cut the oldest stems, where the colour is confined to the very tips, back to a pair of buds between ground level and a height of around 40cm,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. Finally, judiciously prune the remaining stems – those with stronger colour – for length and shape so as to attain a balanced and symmetric form. Generally, these stems should be trimmed by about one-half of their lengths. Thin, wispy stems can be cut back harder. Feel free to prune some stems down to about 10cm. The fresh growth this pruning will stimulate will result in a profusion of very brightly-coloured stems. Hard Pruning Dogwood If your dogwood shrub is congested and overgrown, you can reboot it with a hard prune. To do so, cut back all the stems on the shrub to about 10cm above the ground. Aim to make the cut just above the first or second leaf node. Cut each stem with a pair of sterilised secateurs or pruning shears, loppers or a pruning saw. If using a pruning saw, make a small incision on one side, and then cut across from the other side to meet this. This helps prevent snagging and tearing of stems. Again, the right time is during winter dormancy. Yes, it will be a time-consuming chore, but consider it a labour of love. You will surely reap a brilliantly-coloured reward! “I think dogwoods look best en masse, in large drifts or clumps, if you have the space,” says Peter. “To add interest and a tiered effect, you could cut some back so their colourful branches start around 40cm or 20cm from the ground, and others so they branch from the ground. “Cutting higher may allow you to plant bulbs or ground cover underneath.” After such a cutback, feed the shrub with a balanced formula when fresh growth is emerging in spring.
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Growing Dogwood In Pots? These Are Horticulturists' 7 Key Considerations
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Dogwood Shrubs In Pots? 1) Opt For A Broad, Wide Planter 2) Prioritise Drainage Holes 3) Choose Well-Draining, Organic Soil 4) Use A Large Pot To Avoid Potting Up 5) Never Plant More Than One Per Pot 6) Place Your Container In Full Sun 7) Water Deep, But Infrequently Justly admired by gardeners and landscapers for the crayon-box variety of their colourful stems, dogwood shrubs also include other charms. These shrubs have foliage in rich and deep hues or in unusual shades, such as greenish gold or orange-flushed; some have variegated leaves. Finally, most of them produce bunches of tiny flowers, usually creamy yellow, followed by whitish berries. However, the stars of the show are indubitably the stems. Rich deep red is perhaps the most prized colour, but should it be when other varieties boast stems in sunny yellow or bright orange? But even when these shrubs’ stems are green, they are a dazzling electric lime shade of green! For the good reasons outlined above, these spreading shrubs are used for ornamental purposes on open ground and to guard against erosion on verges and slopes. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Large planter, ericaceous compost, balanced fertiliser, dogwood shrub Can You Grow Dogwood Shrubs In Pots? Though dogwood shrubs are certainly not a conventional pot plant and are considered an open-ground option, you can grow them in a container of a suitable shape and size. Flat-dwellers who are enamoured by these unusual shrubs with their captivating stems and decorative foliage could very successfully grow them in planters on their balconies. If you live in a home you can certainly put a planter with a dogwood shrub on a good-sized patio or verandah and it would make a striking backdrop for a few traditional potted flowering plants. 1) Opt For A Broad, Wide Planter I suggest that you avoid growing a dogwood shrub in a traditional semi-conical pot, no matter how large. Instead, opt for a broad and wide planter; there are two reasons for this. Firstly, a dogwood shrub is unlike a proper plant in that it has considerable spread and the focus of attention is its stems. As a result of this, optics and aesthetics are greatly heightened if the shape and form of the plant are in harmony with the container, which is why a planter works so well. Try to base the breadth of the planter on the ultimate spread of the particular variety. The spread of these shrubs ranges from 1-3m, so you really don’t want a mismatch. As a rule of thumb, the planter’s breadth should be about 75% of the ultimate spread of the variety in question. “However, don’t go too stingy on depth, as thirsty plants will usually need a minimum of 50-60cm for their roots,” Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish says. 2) Prioritise Drainage Holes The container must have drainage holes. Though I’d suggest using terracotta containers, you may grow a dogwood shrub in a decorative planter made of synthetic material. Just be sure it is sufficiently wide and deep. 3) Choose Well-Draining, Organic Soil Dogwood shrubs need soil that drains very well yet is kept moist during the growing season. Beyond that, these shrubs are very sporting about soil. Use a light, moderately fertile soil. A mixed loam amended with a moderate helping of organic compost or some well-rotted chicken manure in about a 3:1 ratio will work very well. Amend the soil further with grit or perlite to facilitate drainage. Add vermiculite or additional compost to preserve moisture as necessary. The medium should never be allowed to stay soggy as this can cause root rot. Though the ideal soil pH is slightly acidic, dogwood can cope with neutral soil too. 4) Use A Large Pot To Avoid Potting Up Dogwood shrubs are not usually potted up or transplanted. They are typically planted in the desired final location, which is straightforward as they are fully hardy and are propagated from cuttings. However, if you need to pot up a dogwood shrub, perform this task soon after the shrub enters winter dormancy or just before the end of the dormancy period. In other words, the end of autumn to early winter is the ideal time period. If transplanting, an additional consideration must be kept in mind, especially if you live in a cold region: the soil should not be hard and should be workable. Whether you’re potting up or transplanting, have a look at the root system. If the shrub is at all root bound, you may as well open up and spread out the roots. A five-minute dip in a tub of water will enable you to remove caked soil. Also, ensure that the soil line of the stem is not any lower than it was in the original container. After potting up or transplanting, give the shrub a good watering. Afterwards, water in moderation, aiming to keep the roots hydrated after the stress of potting up or transplanting. 5) Never Plant More Than One Per Pot Dogwood shrubs have a healthy growth rate and most have a very wide spread. Almost all Cornus sericea varieties are at least 1m in spread and many Cornus alba varieties exceed 3m. Therefore, purely for reasons of practicality, you should plant only one per planter, making sure that the planter is wide enough. Another reason is that planting more than one shrub per planter will lessen rather than heighten aesthetic appeal and will require more thoughtful and careful pruning. 6) Place Your Container In Full Sun To obtain the healthiest shrubs with the most vibrantly-coloured stems, place the container in full sun. If that is not available, part shade will do. 7) Water Deep, But Infrequently During the growing season, dogwood shrubs in containers benefit from deep but less frequent watering. Watering 2-3 times a week, depending on other factors, will work very well. Do not water regularly during winter dormancy; only ensure that the soil does not completely dry out. You can test moisture levels by checking the soil down to an inch or two with a finger or by using a moisture meter. Use a balanced formula, such as a 10-10-10 formulation, for feeding dogwood shrubs in spring.
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Hollyhocks Are Highly Susceptible To Rust - Here's How To Prevent And Treat It
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Rust? Preventing Rust On Hollyhocks Hollyhock Rust Treatment References Hollyhocks are cottage-garden favourites and attractive short-lived perennials that flower in the second year after sowing. Unfortunately, these pretty flowering plants are highly susceptible to a fungal infection – a disease known as hollyhock rust. When growing hollyhocks, you are likely to see this infection, especially during damp years, as it is, sadly, very common. What Is Rust? Hollyhock rust is a fungal infection caused by Puccinia malvacearum.1 Spread by airborne spores, this infection develops very frequently on hollyhocks grown in organic gardens.2 It is especially prevalent in years when the summer weather is wet. The rust fungi are known as biotrophs and they reside within the living plant tissue of hollyhocks and extract nutrients from the plant’s cells.3 Hollyhock rust will not quickly kill plants outright, but a heavy attack can certainly weaken plants, causing tissues to collapse and die in extreme cases. Rust is easy to see and presents as little orange or yellowish dots on the stems and leaves. These typically begin low down on the plant and spread upwards. Leaves that are severely affected will begin to shrivel and even though a little rust can leave the plants largely unharmed, they will likely be somewhat stunted and not grow or flower as well. Preventing Rust On Hollyhocks Unfortunately, when growing hollyhocks, it is very unlikely that you will be able to avoid rust altogether. Rust arrives on the wind, as spores blow in from neighbouring gardens or wild plants growing in the area. It can also arrive with seeds, if the batch includes debris from bracts or other flower parts, or in hollyhock plants that are purchased. These plants may not show any symptoms yet, but might carry rust within. “I regard hollyhock rust as the inevitable price to pay for their wonderful blooms, but it is pretty much the only price to pay,” explains Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Otherwise, they are rugged beauties!” Therefore, rust is difficult, if not impossible, to escape entirely, but there are ways that you can reduce the chances of a severe rust infection taking hold. To reduce the chances of rust being severe on your hollyhocks you can: Select a spot with lower humidity, where the plants are somewhat protected from damp summer conditions. The base of a stone wall, in a rain shadow or under some cover can be good spots, as long as there is still access to the full sun these flowers require. Make sure that there is plenty of airflow around your plants. Congestion and overcrowding can make this fungal problem worse. Make sure that you avoid planting too densely. Ensure that the soil is healthy, rich in organic matter and neither too wet nor too dry. This will keep plants in better health, with stronger roots, and may reduce the severity of an attack. Avoid growing other susceptible plants close by, such as other mallows, lavatera and sidalcea, and do not let wild common mallow grow too close to your prized hollyhocks. Grow hollyhocks as a biennial and discard them after flowering. Though these are short-lived perennials that can bloom more than once, those which have lived past their second year are more likely to get rust. Of course, you should also check plants regularly for signs of this issue so that you can act quickly if required to prevent the problem from getting particularly severe or from spreading more rapidly through your garden. Hollyhock Rust Treatment Vigilance is key when it comes to making sure that a rust infection does not bring down your hollyhocks. As mentioned above, rust can be problematic when severe, but a milder case will only be unsightly and you should still get some flowers. From the very beginning of the season, you should keep a close eye on your hollyhocks so that you can react quickly the moment that rust is detected. If you spot rust on the lower leaves of hollyhocks, remove and dispose of these right away before the problem has a chance to spread. If a plant is particularly badly infected with rust, then it is, unfortunately, best to dispose of that plant altogether carefully, keeping it well away from your compost heap. Fungicides For severe rust, fungicides may have to be applied. Tebuconazole and triticonazole are approved for the control of rust on ornamental plants and may prove effective.4 However, they may need regular applications, especially during wet weather. Some hollyhock varieties are now showing improved resistance to rust and may well be worth pursuing. Alternatively, you can also grow shorter plants in front of your hollyhocks so that you cannot see the unsightly problem as the season progresses. You should still see a few flowers – as long as the rust problem has not become too severe. References 1. Hollyhock rust. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/hollyhock-rust 2. Hollyhock Rust. (n.d.). Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/hollyhock-rust/ 3. Duplessis, S., Cuomo, C. A., Lin, Y., Aerts, A., Tisserant, E., Veneault-Fourrey, C., Joly, D. L., Hacquard, S., Amselem, J., Cantarel, B. L., Chiu, R., Coutinho, P. M., Feau, N., Field, M. A., Frey, P., Gelhaye, E., Goldberg, J., Grabherr, M., Kodira, C. D., . . . Martin, F. (2011). Obligate biotrophy features unravelled by the genomic analysis of rust fungi. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 108(22), 9166–9171. https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.1019315108 4. How do you manage rust on hollyhocks? (2023, March 30). University of Maine Cooperative Extension. Retrieved May 24, 2023, from https://extension.umaine.edu/gardening/2023/03/30/how-do-you-manage-rust-on-hollyhocks/
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