Growing
Planting Oxalis Bulbs (Corms) In 5 Steps With Emily Cupit's Video Guide
IN THIS GUIDE When To Plant Where To Plant 1) Acquire Oxalis Corms 2) Prepare Your Pot 3) Plant The Corms 4) Cover With Growing Medium 5) Water In Well Oxalis plants are ornamentals often grown indoors in the UK, though there are some varieties that can also be grown outdoors. Also commonly referred to as shamrocks for the shape of their leaves, these can be grown from small bulbs, tuberous root sections or from seed. To plant the bulbs (which are technically corms) of this bulbous perennial, which look like long, thin pine cones: Select and purchase your corms. Prepare a pot filled with a suitable free-draining growing medium. Plant the corms vertically in a deep container, with the narrow end upwards. Make sure the corms are around 2.5cm apart and covered with around 2.5-3.5cm of your growing medium. Water in well, making sure excess water can drain away and wait for growth to emerge. Use our easy-to-follow video for more information, or read on for a more detailed explanation: When To Plant Oxalis bulbs are often planted undercover in autumn for indoor cultivation as houseplants or for transplantation into the garden in spring. They can also be planted in spring after all risk of frost has passed in your area. Where To Plant Where you plant and grow oxalis bulbs very much depends on which oxalis variety you have chosen to grow. It also depends on where you live and whether the oxalis you have chosen will thrive outside in your area. Oxalis triangularis cultivars are commonly grown as houseplants in the UK, though they can also grow outdoors in summer in milder or coastal gardens. Indoors, you need to choose a light, bright location and place the corms in pots filled with a suitably fertile yet free-draining growing medium. 1) Acquire Oxalis Corms If you would like to plant oxalis, the first stage is to select and purchase your corms or, if you have an existing pot of oxalis, the corms can be split up and re-potted. When selecting the oxalis to grow, make sure you think about where you would like to grow it, and the conditions you can provide, as well as its visual appearance. 2) Prepare Your Pot A pot or container for oxalis must have good drainage to allow excess water to drain away at the base, as this plant cannot tolerate waterlogged soil. It must also be deep enough to accommodate the long, thin corms. Fill your container with a free-draining yet fertile growing medium. A mix of peat-free houseplant compost with a grit added for drainage is typically best. 3) Plant The Corms Place a little of the growing medium into the base of the container, making sure that there is a reasonable layer, but that you can still accommodate the corms with space to cover them over on top. A planting depth of 3-5cm is recommended. Place the corms upright in the container, with their narrower ends upwards. You can use a dibber to make the holes for these within the medium. Fill in the growing medium around these carefully. 4) Cover With Growing Medium Once the corms are in place within the growing medium, make sure that you cover these, so that the tops of each one are around 2.5-3.5cm below the surface. Remember, there should also be a little headspace at the top of the container. 5) Water In Well Next, simply give your newly planted corms a drink, but make sure excess water can drain away freely. After, make sure your pot is placed in a suitable location and wait for the new growth to appear.
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Oxalis ‘Purple Shamrock’: This Plant Needs A Period Of Dormancy And Occasional Feeding
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Ongoing Care Common Problems References Shamrock is the name given to several three-leaved plants within the Oxalis genus as well as clover (Trifolium repens) and medick (Medicago lupina), Oxalis bein, popular for their three-four lobed clover-like leaves and star-like flowers, which are grown as houseplants in the UK. These plants, popular as St. Patrick’s Day decoration, are considered lucky by some.1 They are attractive and interesting plants that could be interesting additions to a houseplant collection. In this article, we will focus on the most popular Shamrock or False Shamrock houseplant, Oxalis triangularis. Overview Botanical Name Oxalis triangularis Common Name(s) False Shamrock / Purple Shamrock Plant Type Bulbous perennial Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pink and white star-shaped flowers When To Plant Any time if growing indoors, Spring if outdoors Native to South America, this is the plant commonly referred to as false shamrock or ‘shamrock plant’.2 The subspecies O. triangularis subsp. papilionacea, AKA the ‘Purpleleaf False Shamrock’, has been gifted the RHS Award of Garden Merit. This is a bulbous perennial plant with deep maroon, clover-like leaves and white or pale pink, five-petalled little flowers. This may also sometimes be grown outside in the warmest areas, but is also most commonly grown as a houseplant. One very interesting thing about this plant is that the leaves, when examined closely, look like an umbrella during the night or when disturbed, and the flowers also close during the night. It also, unlike most other common houseplants, goes through a period of dormancy each year. Habitat & Growing Conditions Temperature False Shamrock has a H3 hardiness rating and should be grown in temperatures of around 15°C. It will cope with higher temperatures but will tend to suffer if temperatures above 25°C are sustained for too long. It can tolerate temperatures down to around -3°C and will only survive winter outdoors in the very mildest regions of the southern British Isles, in a particularly sheltered spot. Usually, therefore, these plants are grown undercover, or as houseplants here in the UK. Sunlight These plants require a position with bright yet indirect sunlight indoors. Outdoors in a suitable spot they will thrive in partial shade. When not grown as year-round houseplants, these plants are sometimes also placed outdoors in late spring in partial shade, then moved back indoors or undercover into frost-free conditions in early autumn. Soil Requirements In terms of the growing medium, ‘False Shamrock’ needs moisture-retentive yet well-drained soil. A recommended mix for this plant is 1/3 loam, 1/3 leaf mould and 1/3 grit, or, alternatively, an equivalent soil-free compost. Ongoing Care Dormancy ‘False Shamrock’ can be an unusual plant, and many used to growing other houseplants may find them rather different from the other plants they may have grown. The main difference is that as corms, these plants have frequent periods of dormancy, which can occur during winter but may also occur 2-3 times a year if Oxalis is grown undercover. Those who are not familiar with these plants may often fear that their plants are unwell, as they seem unhealthy and begin to lose their leaves, but this is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle. The plant needs a period of rest. Leaves should be allowed to die back naturally, and the corms should be left to the dormancy period for 3-4 weeks when it occurs in the summer months, or overwinter in those with winter dormancy. Watering These plants should be watered in moderation while they are in active growth, taking care not to cause waterlogged conditions, yet also ensuring sufficient moisture. However, when the plants are dormant, watering should be minimal and the growing medium should be kept barely moist. Feeding During periods of active growth, it is a good idea to feed these plants with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed (such as a compost tea) every month or so. However, during dormant phases, feeding should be halted entirely. Propagation Oxalis triangularis can be propagated by means of seed or division. Seeds are best sown as soon as they become mature, in a cold frame or indoors. Note, however, that the seeds of certain subspecies may not come true. This could be interesting, since you may have, for example, purple-leaved types growing from the seeds of a green-leaved form – so you might wish to experiment. Prick out the seedlings into individual pots and grow them indoors, planting out or placing them outdoors in late spring or early summer if you wish to do so. Division is best carried out in spring. Pot up smaller divisions and grow them on in a cold frame or under cover even when planning to place them outdoors, so they are well established. Larger divisions can be placed into an outdoors position right away if they are to be grown outdoors. Common Problems Generally, oxalis are relatively untroubled by pests and diseases. However, they can be troubled by slugs and snails when placed outdoors, and can sometimes be susceptible to rust diseases, which can be unsightly, though these fungal infections will rarely kill your plants. Aside from understanding dormancy, oxalis houseplants are fairly easy to care for and they do not require pruning. In general, you should find false shamrock plants interesting and relatively straightforward additions to a houseplant collection. References 1. DiLonardo, M. (2021, February 8). 17 Things You Didn’t Know About Shamrocks. ThoughtCo. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.thoughtco.com/things-you-didnt-know-about-shamrocks-4863451 2. Oxalis triangularis. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/oxalis-triangularis/
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Sow Calendula Seeds Effortlessly With Emily Cupit's Simple 3 Step Process
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Calendula 1) Prepare The Growing Area 2) Sow The Seeds 3) Plant Out Calendulas are one of the very best hardy annual flowers to grow in your garden. They are extremely attractive, great for wildlife, excellent companion plants for a range of plants and often reliably self-seed in the garden. They also provide, in their own right, a range of useful yields. Calendula seeds can be sown indoors or under cover, or directly sown where they are to grow. The seeds can be sown in spring, for blooms between June and September, or in autumn for flowers from around May to July. The process is very simple: Prepare a suitable growing area to directly sow outside or prepare seed trays or containers if preferred. Sow your calendula seeds by scattering them over the soil and covering with 1cm of soil or compost, or placing them in containers covered with 1cm of a peat-free seed-starting growing medium. If you have sown indoors or under cover, harden off and plant out seedlings between May and July. When To Sow Calendula While you can sow in spring or autumn, I tend to sow my calendula seeds in spring. “This approach avoids looking after seedlings all winter for the limited benefit of slightly earlier flowering,” says Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. You can choose to sow indoors from March, direct sow in April or May, or sow either indoors or directly in September or October. Calendulas are hardy and can cope with a little frost. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray or pots When To Prune March-May or September-October When To Plant Out May-July 1) Prepare The Growing Area Calendula seeds can be sown, like other annuals, into seed trays, toilet roll tubes, soil blocks or small pots, filled with a peat-free seed-starting compost. However, the best policy is generally to sow calendula seeds directly into prepared soil where they are to grow. Calendulas are quite unfussy plants but like moist yet free-draining soil in full sun or very light shade. I use them as companion plants in my vegetable garden. 2) Sow The Seeds If choosing not to directly sow, place seeds into your trays, blocks, modules or containers, around 1cm deep. I simply broadcast the seeds over an area of my beds or sow sparsely into rows, covering over lightly with homemade compost so they are around 1cm deep. Once the seedlings have germinated, I thin these to around 20cm apart. 3) Plant Out If you have not chosen to directly sow your calendulas, you can prick out and pot up if required, then harden off and plant out your young calendula plants between May and July, once the weather has begun to warm where you live. Direct sowing is by far the easiest choice, and calendula should thrive without much care and attention. Just make sure the soil remains moist but not waterlogged and these plants will more or less take care of themselves. Often, they will also do the work for you and seed themselves around your garden the following year.
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Poppies Are Easily Grown From Seed Between March And May - Here’s The Full Process
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Poppies 1) Prepare The Area 2) Scatter The Seeds 3) Keep The Soil Moist There are a number of different poppies that might be grown in UK gardens, the most common of which is the field poppy – Papaver rhoeas. These annual meadow flowers bloom only fleetingly, but they can be a great choice for an annual wildflower meadow or for a bed or border in a wildlife-friendly garden. The good news is that poppies are incredibly easy to grow from seed, and once sown, will require little care and can often also self-seed readily. So, even though they bloom over a single season, if you grow poppies in your garden you may well be able to enjoy their blooms for a number of years. See our video guide for a quick visual demonstration showing how to sow poppies: When To Sow Poppies Poppy seeds are usually best sown between March and May, depending on location, and are best direct sown where they are to grow. However, they can also be directly sown in early summer or autumn, so if you don’t get around to sowing the seeds in spring, you can still do it later. You are more likely to get away with later sowing if you have light and free-draining soil where you live. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Rake, seeds, watering can When To Sow March-May 1) Prepare The Area Once you have selected poppy seeds (or an annual meadow mix including other annual plants if you prefer) you will need to prepare the site where you wish to sow them. Field Poppies need a weed-free area with relatively free-draining conditions where there is full sun. They look wonderful alongside other field flowers such as cornflowers, corn marigolds, corncockle, and other annual meadow plants. 2) Scatter The Seeds Poppies can be sown in an orderly fashion in a bed or border, but they tend to look best when scattered randomly over a broader area. Simply scatter your poppy seeds over an area and cover the seeds over lightly using a rake. 3) Keep The Soil Moist As long as you have chosen a suitable location to sow your poppy seeds, all you need to do is water the seeds when the weather is dry, both during germination and as the plants grow. As long as you make sure that the area does not dry out entirely, there will not be anything else that you have to do. Poppies will often self-seed and plants will pop up again in your garden the following year. “If you are not preparing a seed bed every year, you will need to prepare a bare area either by clearing vegetation or scratching bare patches into a meadow,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “This can either be over-sown or provide spaces for self-sown poppy seeds to germinate.” However, you can also easily collect poppy seeds and sow these for more poppies the following year.
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Salvia Nemorosa (‘Woodland Sage’) Is An Ideal Wildlife Plant: How To Grow Yours
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Woodland Sage Plant Care Container Growing Companion Planting References Salvia nemorosa (‘Woodland Sage’) is a wonderful option for a wildlife-friendly space. Though non-native, it can thrive in many UK gardens. In this article, you will learn why you may wish to grow this plant, and where to place it if you do. Overview Botanical Name Salvia nemorosa Common Name(s) Balkan Clary / Woodland Sage Plant Type Perennial Native Area Central Europe and West Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Upright spikes of purple flowers When To Plant May-June When To Prune September-November S. nemorosa is a member of the Salvia (sage) genus. It is a hardy, herbaceous woodland perennial native to broad swathes of Central Europe and Western Asia.1 The name nemorosa refers to the plant’s native woodland grove habitat, meaning ‘of woods’.2 ‘Caradonna’ is the name of one popular cultivar of this plant. It has been rewarded with the RHS Award of Garden Merit and is named on the RHS Plants for Pollinators list. It has dark purple stems and purple-violet stems borne in long, upright spikes. This plant is beneficial for bees and other pollinators due to its nectar-rich flowers. That nectar is available over a long period, as the plants can be in bloom between June and October, providing a bounty of sustenance and attracting beneficial insects all summer long. Bees can see purple and white flowers easily, and the purple blooms of these flowers stand out for them in the summer garden. Butterflies also love this plant, so it is a good addition to a butterfly-friendly garden. “Salvia nemerosa is one of my favourite plants for including in herbaceous plantings for providing a long period of flowering for pollinators,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “As a garden plant, it is also tough and versatile, combing well with many other perennials and grasses and needing little looking after.” Planting Woodland Sage Plant S. nemorosa in May or June and it will grace your garden for a number of years to come. As a herbaceous perennial, it will die back in winter but burst back into new growth each spring. This plant is wonderful on the fringes of a forest garden or woodland space. It also works very well in herbaceous borders, or with other perennial plants in a mixed bed or border planting scheme. Planted around the fringes of a kitchen garden, it can bring in pollinators and other beneficial insects and ensure good pollination rates on common garden crops. How To Plant Out S. nemorosa can be purchased in pots, and if you purchase a plant in autumn, it is best to wait until after the last frost before planting it out. Trim back the plant a little to encourage bushy growth and plant in the ground or container where it is to grow once the risk of frost is passed. Plant Care This hardy perennial can be a great low-maintenance plant for a suitable spot. You should find them an easy and rewarding plant to grow, provided you follow the simple advice below: Aspect A south-facing or west-facing aspect can be ideal for S. nemorosa. Although the plants can cope with partial or dappled shade, a sunny and sheltered location will be optimal. Overwintering S. ‘Caradonna’ is one of the many H7 hardy perennial sages and will survive the winter across the UK, even during harsh winters. Soil Requirements The soil in a suitable spot will be moist yet free-draining. Once established, this plant can be pretty drought tolerant, but cannot tolerate waterlogged soil. Chalk, loam or sandy soil is ideal, and those with heavy clay may find it more difficult to create the right growing conditions. However, even those with clay soil can grow this plant, as long as the soil is amended with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage. Pruning Deadheading flower spikes during the flowering season can encourage further flowers over the long blooming period. The plants may also be pruned back to the ground in autumn after the flowering is done. However, while this keeps your garden looking neat, you could consider leaving dead material in perennial beds and borders in place to provide a habitat for wildlife over winter. Common Pests & Diseases Usually, S. nemorosa is a relatively trouble-free plant to grow. However, it is worth noting that the plant is a favourite with slugs and snails, which can pose quite a threat to young plants in particular. Encourage natural predators like thrushes and hedgehogs to keep down pest numbers, and protect young plants where these are a particular problem. Container Growing S. nemorosa can also be an interesting choice for growing in containers. Since they are fairly compact plants, which will spread to around 50cm tall and 30cm wide, these can work well in pots in a container garden. The key thing to remember if growing in containers is that you will need to water more during dry periods since containers can dry out more quickly. Companion Planting S. nemorosa works very well with other Salvias, which come in a range of colours and heights. They can also be great for underplanting below roses, and a range of other flowering shrubs that like similar growing conditions. These plants also look wonderful with other herbaceous perennials, including but certainly not limited to penstemons, eryngiums, achilleas, nepetas, verbenas and veronicastrums, and also look wonderful alongside ornamental grasses. References 1. Salvia nemorosa. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:456774-1 2. nemorosa – Translation and Meaning in Almaany English-English Dictionary. (n.d.). Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.almaany.com/en/dict/en-en/nemorosa/
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Talking Super Sage Varieties With The Victorian Salvia Study Group
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties 1) S. argentea 2) S. spathacea 3) S. oxyphora 4) S. ‘Royal Bumble’ 5) S. ‘Jezebel’ 6) S. x jamensis ‘Raspberry Royale’ 7) S. ‘Hot Lips’ 8) S. ‘Clotted Cream’ 9) S. splendens ‘Vanguard’ 10) S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ 11) S. nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ 12) S. rosmarinus ‘Green Ginger’ 13) S. sylvestris ‘May Night’ 14) S. microphylla ‘Heatwave Glimmer’ References Salvias produce flowers that are easy on the eye and there are well over 1,000 accepted species to choose from, according to Kew.1 With this in mind, it can be hard to know where to start. Luckily, we’ve got you covered, as we share some favourites from Lyndi Garnett, the Founder and Coordinator of the Victorian Salvia Study Group. We also share 14 favourites (with pictures) from our editorial team. Expert-Chosen Varieties “Salvias are incredibly diverse, they grow all over the world from coastal South Africa to the high Andes,” says Vicki Weston, owner of Weston’s Salvias. “They are very varied in form and colour so I’m never going to get bored! 600 species and hundreds more varieties of these have been bred over the last twenty years. S. ‘Nachtvlinder’ “They are also extremely long flowering, blooming from late May until the frosts, very low maintenance and beneficial bees and bugs love them.” We asked Vicki to share some of her favourite varieties. S. uliginosa “Asking me my favourite salvia is a bit like asking me who my favourite child is!” she jokes. Her top picks included the hardy varieties: S. ‘Royal Bumble’ (scarlet, pictured below) S. ‘Flower Child’ (pink) S. ‘Nachtvlinder’ (purple, pictured above) S. × jamensis ‘Javier’ (violet) S. uliginosa (blue, pictured above) And some tender salvias that Vicki loves are: S. involucrata (pink, pictured below) S. fulgens (red) S. corrugata (purple) “There are too many to have favourites,” agrees Lyndi Garnett. However: “In summer, I like all the small-leaf Salvia microphylla and S. greggii types because of all their bright colours.” S. microphylla “When autumn comes around, all the cerise and crimson flowers contrast beautifully with the purples and bright blues and, in winter, all the tall large leaf varieties come to life, some reaching up to 4m in height and spread. S. greggii “Then all the herbaceous varieties burst forth and the small-leaf salvias come to life, and so it begins again.” A medley of Lyndi’s other top picks include: S. madrensis S. involucrata S. wagneriana And if these aren’t enough, we sample 14 additional varieties below – a hand-picked mix of the popular and the rare in all colours of the rainbow. 1) S. argentea COMMON NAME(S): silver sage HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: grey and silver FOLIAGE TYPE: semi-evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered With a height of about 90cm and a 50cm spread, ‘Silver Sage’ is a very tidy plant in more ways than one. The ‘argentea’ or ‘silver’ in its name refers to the cool, patently silvery-green shade of its leaves that are irregularly ovate and sport thread-like hairs. The flowers are white and are produced during a shortish season in late summer. This species has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 2) S. spathacea COMMON NAME(S): pitcher sage HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: red and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered Among the most unusual and sparklingly colourful of salvias, pitcher sage comes in at a height and spread of just under 1m. The leaves are like oblong arrows, amusingly crinkled, and quite aromatic. They are purplish-pink with a purplish-maroon understructure. This species is also a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 3) S. oxyphora COMMON NAME(S): fuzzy Bolivian sage HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: semi-evergreen FLOWERS: pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered Rising up to 1.5m in height, frost-tender Fuzzy Bolivian Sage gets its name not from its foliage, but, from its flowers, as the 4cm nub-like blooms are covered in a fine fuzz. They are a bright pink to cherry red and are borne in spikes, the overall effect being uniquely decorative. These blooms are seen from midsummer into autumn. This delightful and rare import also features brilliant green leaves that are oval-to-lanceolate. 4) S. ‘Royal Bumble’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘royal bumble’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green with purple stems FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered With a bushy habit emphasised by the roughly equal dimensions of its height and spread of about 75cm, ‘Royal Bumble’ is an exceptionally popular cultivar. The foliage is deliciously aromatic and is of a brilliant, almost vivid, green shade. The clawed flowers are awesomely-coloured, being rich vermilion with gradations into orange and red. These vibrant flowers bloom from late spring to early autumn and the variety has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 5) S. ‘Jezebel’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘jezebel’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered ‘Jezebel’ produces larger-than-average bright red flowers displayed on racemes. Additional charms include the ovate leaves which are petite and of a rich, deep green shade and the extended blooming season that starts in late spring and finishes in mid-autumn. It grows to about 90cm and is (yet another) recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 6) S. x jamensis ‘Raspberry Royale’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘raspberry royale’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered Continuing with the red theme and presenting another cultivar that is true to its name, ‘Raspberry Royale’ features perfect raspberry-red flowers. They are double-lipped and, although on the small side, occur in spellbinding abundance on racemes, and are even produced over a lengthy blooming season from summer into autumn. This sub-shrub has greyish-green lanceolate leaves that are very pleasantly aromatic. 7) S. ‘Hot Lips’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘hot lips’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: white and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered One of those red hot hit varieties, ‘Hot Lips’ is supremely popular. At an equal height and spread of about 1m, this bushy plant’s foliage does not even get a second billing as the flowers steal the show. The clawed blooms are a brilliant red in the early part of the season and often come up white when the show closes in late autumn. However, in mid-season, they are at their bi-coloured best, displaying a bright red and hard white. 8) S. ‘Clotted Cream’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘clotted cream’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered A deciduous perennial that reaches up to 70cm tall and has a bushy habit, ‘Clotted Cream’ has deep green ovate leaves that are remarkably aromatic. The clawed and lipped flowers are a rich creamy white colour. Their blooming habits are variable, but they will certainly bloom throughout the summer months. 9) S. splendens ‘Vanguard’ COMMON NAME(S): scarlet-flowered sage ‘vanguard’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: green and red FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered A clump-forming, upright cultivar that grows to a mere 30cm in height, ‘Vanguard’ is a tender but wonderfully floriferous variety. In summer it bears lush spikes of scarlet flowers, which it keeps producing until some time in autumn. Reddish bracts emphasise the brilliant red colourations of this joyfully decorative variety. This variety has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 10) S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘tricolor’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: cream, green, grey, silver and purple FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered Though it produces pretty little blue flowers in summer, Tricolor’ is a salvia that is desirable for its very ornamental foliage. Those 3 colours with which the variegated and aromatic leaves are decorated are shades of green, cream, and rose-purple, the last hue appearing usually only on young leaves. What’s more, it is a hardy evergreen so you can enjoy this plant’s beautiful foliage even in the grey of winter. 11) S. nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ COMMON NAME(S): Balkan clary ‘caradonna’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: grey, green and silver FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered A super-hardy perennial, ‘Caradonna’ is surely salvia royalty. Immensely popular, its flowers are a lustrous royal purple verging on violet. These small but brilliant blooms are held aloft on spiky racemes and are seen for the better part of summer. It reaches a touch under 50cm and has greyish-green foliage. 12) S. rosmarinus ‘Green Ginger’ COMMON NAME(S): rosemary ‘green ginger’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: white and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered Leading the way among the edible sages is, of course, rosemary, and ‘Green Ginger’ is one of the best picks among the many shrubby evergreen cultivars. It is a bushy plant that grows to nearly 1m in height. The narrow leaves are deliciously aromatic and make for an unbeatable kitchen herb. It produces lovely pale blue and white flowers in clusters from late spring to the end of summer. 13) S. sylvestris ‘May Night’ COMMON NAME(S): wood sage ‘mainacht’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered ‘May Night’ is a super-hardy deciduous perennial that rises up to 1m and around half the spread. Its aromatic foliage is of that cool, deep, greyish-green hue that typifies the sages. It produces flowers all through the summer that are borne thickly on racemes and are of a brilliant purple hue that catches and holds the eye. Another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 14) S. microphylla ‘Heatwave Glimmer’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘heatwave glimmer’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green and purple FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered A shrubby evergreen with a bushy habit and a height and spread of 1m, ‘Heatwave Glimmer’ displays colour in unexpected places: it has visibly purplish stems and sepals, and young leaves are often also tipped or tinged with purple. In contrast, the clawed flowers that resemble birds are creamy white, often with a pink flush. These classy, refined blooms appear from early summer and clear into autumn. References 1. Salvia L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000096-2#children
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Salvias Will Grow Happily In Containers (And It's Essential For The Tender Ones)
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Salvia In Pots? Choosing Suitable Containers Choosing Compost Potting Up Salvia Pot-Grown Salvia Care Sage plants’ unusual, irregularly-shaped flowers are as much a treat to the eyes as the zesty leaves that are a treat to the palate in pot roasts and stuffings. You may be wondering if you can grow sage in containers. Luckily for you, this article has all the answers. Can You Grow Salvia In Pots? Yes, you can, and if you are growing salvia varieties that are hardy only to H3, you probably should. That way you won’t have any trouble protecting the frost-tender plants over the winter, as Vicki Weston from Weston’s Salvias explains: “Salvias will grow happily in containers and, for the tender varieties, many of which are still in spectacular flower in November, it’s essential.” Choosing Suitable Containers I’d recommend you choose a terra-cotta pot with drainage holes. It’s best to avoid containers made of plastic and other synthetic materials. As for the size of the container, this depends on the present size of the plant and, eventually, on its ultimate height and spread. “I think that many people use containers for salvias because they are nervous about their plants surviving over winter,” Vicki says. “Remember that shrubby types grow thousands of feet up in the South American mountains, so they are tough. “Hot Lips, Royal Bumble and lots of other varieties are hardy to -10°C and, ironically, as a container is colder, they are less safe in the winter in a pot than in the ground!” Salvia varieties’ ultimate heights range from a compact 0.3-2m, so the size of the container will be very variable. I’d recommend choosing a container with a height that is about half as much as the current height of the plant, or even a little more. Salvia roots grow relatively quickly and it has a well-spread root system, so be sure to pot on or consider using a bigger pot in the first place. Choosing Compost Salvias perform best in moderately fertile, but not overly rich, soil with some organic content, but they are susceptible to root rot so excellent drainage is non-negotiable. “Choose a very good potting soil with little organic matter so the soil doesn’t become sour due to a lack of oxygen,” advises Lyndi Garnett, from the Victorian Salvia Study Group. For all salvia except Rosemary varieties, you can’t go wrong with a high-quality outdoor or all-purpose potting mix. Otherwise, loose soil that is a mix of grit or perlite, sand, and organic compost will do very well for most salvia. For Rosemary varieties, less fertile soil such as a balanced loam should be used. The soil should be kept moist, though it should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Potting Up Salvia Potted Salvia plants will need to be potted up until they attain their ultimate size. Nearly all salvias should not be left in their original containers permanently as they can become rootbound with resultant stress on the plant, causing it eventually to die. Whether you pot on or transplant your salvia, a sunny May morning would be ideal. For most Salvia varieties we suggest that the new pot should be two sizes up from the current one. Lightly water the potted salvia, then dig a planting hole that is a little deeper and a little wider than the plant’s pot. Remove the Salvia with the soil from the pot, then gently shake out some of the soil from the roots. If the roots are well spread, place the crown in the hole to transplant, but if they are rootbound then you will need to loosen the roots and spread them out before placing into the new container. A good way to do so is to dip the root system into a tub of clean, cold water, gently swish them around, and separate them. Backfill around the hole, firm up the soil and water thoroughly. How Many Salvia Can You Plant Per Pot? For full-grown perennial salvia, I’d suggest that you grow only one per pot so that the pot’s dimensions are appropriate for the given plant’s size. Most salvia varieties require soil nutrients to produce the most eye-catching blooms and the most delectable leaves, so it is wise to let each plant play by itself. “Pots can be positioned in various locations – shade or sun,” says Lyndi. “Most like a sunny sheltered position, but it can vary, so check the preferences for the varieties you are growing.” Pot-Grown Salvia Care For the most part, salvia in pots should be kept in full sun in a sheltered spot. Varieties that are hardy to H6 or H7 may be kept in an exposed location. Whether your salvia plants are in containers or in open ground, regular deadheading will prolong blooming. During hot summers, keep an eye on salvia containers kept in full sun. If the plant is drooping, increase the frequency of watering and shift it to a partially sunny location where it will get dappled or filtered sunlight. “Water your potted salvias around once a week with regular feeding,” recommends Lyndi. “Make sure there’s lots of air around the pot and that you don’t over water.” Fertilise these plants once a year in the spring with a balanced controlled-release fertiliser, taking care to use the product in proportion to the size of the plant and the container. As salvia varieties vary widely in hardiness from frost-tender H2 plants such as Salvia dombeyi (giant Bolivian sage) all the way to fully hardy H7 ones such as Salvia x superba (hybrid sage) – whether or not winter care is required will be up to the particular variety. “Know your plant – perennial or herbaceous,” advises Lyndi. “If it becomes winter dormant, it is herbaceous and should be overwintered accordingly.” In general, varieties that are not hardy in your region should be overwintered indoors or kept in a greenhouse.
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Primrose Are Notoriously Difficult To Grow From Seed And Are Only Viable For 2-3 Years
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Primula 1) Source & Store Seeds 2) Prepare Your Seed Tray 3) Sow The Seeds 4) Place Outdoors 5) Prick Out & Pot Up 6) Overwinter Primroses are extremely easy and popular options as summer bedding plants, but most are notoriously difficult to grow from seed. Even though it might be challenging, it is possible to grow many of your favourite primulas this way. To grow primrose plants from seed: Keep seeds in the fridge until required. Prepare a seed tray filled with seed compost. Sow seeds thinly on the surface of the compost. Place in a shady spot outdoors, with protection from pests. Wait until seedlings have at least four leaves, then prick out and pot up seedlings into individual pots. Overwinter in pots in a frost-free but reasonably cool location. Learn more about this entire process below. When To Sow Primula Many varieties of primula, including varieties of Polyanthus and Auricula, are best sown from February to April. Some light frost can actually help germination, but you should avoid planting too early, and in colder areas, hold off until April. Sow your seeds any time before the end of May and you should still see some flowers the following year. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Seed, seed tray or pots, growing medium, greenhouse or undercover area When To Sow February – April 1) Source & Store Seeds It is important to note that some varieties of primula are far more likely to germinate successfully than others. You can purchase seeds and should follow the seed-starting suggestions given for the specific type and cultivar. In some cases, you might also be able to collect seeds from primroses you are growing, as long as you have not deadheaded and have allowed the plants to go to seed. When the seeds arrive or when you collect them, place them in a screw-top jar in your fridge, where they should remain viable for 2-3 years. 2) Prepare Your Seed Tray Make sure that you choose your growing medium carefully. Primula seedlings can be very sensitive to mineral salts contained in fertilisers which are found in some seed mixes, so choose a high-quality seed-starting compost. Look for or make one with good aeration that is as fibrous and gritty as possible. Make sure your compost is not too fine or it may become compacted with watering. 3) Sow The Seeds Seeds should be sown thinly on top of the medium, then gently pressed against the surface and not covered. They need light to germinate. Some which germinate more slowly can be sown onto a thin layer of very fine grit over the compost. Water the seeds in with a fine sprinkling, then place a perforated lid over the tray to offer protection from pests. 4) Place Outdoors Place the covered tray outside in a shady location, not under glass. Under glass, temperatures can be too warm, even in spring. Ideally, temperatures should be maintained between 12-15°C for germination to take place, but periods of freezing and thawing are required beforehand, so it is best to sow as early as possible. Primroses should germinate and sprout within around 3 weeks, but some types, like Auricula and Sieboldii, can take up to 6 weeks. 5) Prick Out & Pot Up Prick out the seedlings only once they have developed at least 4 true leaves. Pot up each of the seedlings that have germinated successfully into their own individual pots. Water as needed and check regularly. 6) Overwinter Keep the young plants in a cold frame or in a cool but sheltered position over the following winter. Plant out your young primula the following spring and they should flower that year, a year after sowing. “You will find Primulas are susceptible to fungal issues like Botrytis cinerea (grey mould),” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I spray a preventative anti-fungal treatment regularly on young and potted plants. “Although there is no product that advertises that it prevents Botrytis available to the home gardener, a general fungicide should be effective and yes, you can now get an organic fungicide spray (look out for the green bottle).”
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Why You Should Be Deadheading Snapdragons Throughout Their Flowering Season
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead 1) Pinch Off Spent Flowers 2) Cut Entire Stalks 3) Cut Back Delightful snapdragons are among the most popular garden plants, thanks to their unusually shaped flowers in thick bunches on upright spikes. They also come in a remarkable array of hues and shades, including sunny yellow, soft pink, and intense maroon. No matter which variety you go for, you will find some benefits to deadheading snapdragons. Deadheading spent blooms spurs more profuse blooming as it directs the plant’s energy to focus on producing new blooms. Deadheading Snapdragons is a straightforward process: Pinch off spent flowers individually. Cut off entire stalks when the majority of their flowers are wilted or dead. Cut back the plant once during the season to stimulate fresh growth and renewed blooming. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Deadhead Throughout flowering season When To Deadhead Snapdragons should be deadheaded during the flowering season as a regular and ongoing gardening task. During this season, inspect your plants about once a week or so. 1) Pinch Off Spent Flowers If you see a few fading or wilted flowers on a stalk, pinch them off with your thumb and forefinger. Make sure to remove them from where the flower attaches to the main stalk so that you also remove any developing seed pod. 2) Cut Entire Stalks If you see that the great majority of flowers on a stalk are fading or wilted, use secateurs to cut off the entire stalk at its base near where it rises from the plant. 3) Cut Back After the first flush of blooms seems to be over in mid-to-late summer or if the plant fails to flower satisfactorily in the first place, cut it back to about 30-50% of its current growth. Doing so will most probably stimulate fresh growth and bring forth a fresh flush of blooms. “Deadheading is a time-consuming task but rewards you with more and later flowers,” shares Colin Skelly, a consultant Horticulturist. “With taller cultivars, it will also help to prevent the risk of the plants being blown over. “In small gardens, this attention to detail really helps to get more out of your space.” Leaving blooms will typically result in seed pods that you can collect later in autumn. Make sure to water the plant well after cutting back.
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