Growing
Most Blueberry Cultivars Are Winter Hardy - But These 5 Steps Will Ensure They Survive
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Move Potted Plants Indoors 2) Protect Outdoor Plants 3) Apply Mulch 4) Ensure Correct Growing Conditions 5) Protect Buds If Necessary References The vast majority of commercially-available blueberry cultivars are hardy to H6, which means that they are hardy throughout the length and breadth of the UK and can withstand temperatures well below freezing. However, it’s still recommended that you think about your blueberry plants in some way over the winter months to ensure their safety. In this article, I’ll take you through these ifs and buts and all the finer points as we run through several measures to help you care for your blueberry bush during winter: Move any potted plants indoors or to a sheltered location. Provide protection to your blueberry plants that are outdoors. Mulch your blueberry plants to protect their roots. Ensure your plants are shielded from the north wind and from waterlogged soil. If needed, protect the flower buds. These measures are explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening shovel When To Overwinter Early November 1) Move Potted Plants Indoors If you live in a cold region, your blueberry bush is hardy to H4 or perhaps H5, and you expect a frost, play it safe and simply shift the plant indoors or into a sheltered location. In order to produce flowering and fruiting buds, blueberry bushes need a certain number of chilling hours during winter, meaning temperatures within a range from 0-7°C. UK cultivars are mostly northern highbush types with half-high types making up the rest. The former needs 900-1,000 chilling hours while the latter types need about 800 chilling hours.1 So, by all means, shift your potted blueberry bush indoors, but you should either keep it where the temperature stays below 7°C or if this is not possible, move it back outside as soon as the worst frosts have passed. 2) Protect Outdoor Plants You may well have a blueberry bush that is hardy enough in your region to spend the winter outdoors. If so, you can make double sure that the roots will not be affected by severe cold. Simply wrap two layers of hessian, styrofoam sheeting, or even an old blanket around the pot or over the ground to insulate your plant’s roots. 3) Apply Mulch Open-ground blueberry bushes are best protected by laying a thick mulch around them. Mulches for blueberry bushes should be ericaceous or acidic – and using a suitable mulch can serve the dual-purpose of helping to feed the plants. Mulch made of pine needles, pine bark, other conifers’ bark, and leaf compost is perfect. Leave about 5cm around the main stem and lay mulch up to 6cm. Tamp it down and feel free to lightly water it in. 4) Ensure Correct Growing Conditions Two no-nos during winter for fruiting bushes are the chilly north wind and waterlogged soil. A blueberry bush should not be planted where it has a northern aspect and if yours does, you may wish to consider transplanting it. For the here and now, it would be best to set up a temporary barrier to shield the bush from northern exposure during winter. Be aware that strong winds could blow an unstable barrier over on the bush. Mulching the bush will guard it against getting waterlogged during normal rains, but a heavy winter rainstorm or prolonged rainy weather can damage the bush’s roots. If very wet weather is on the horizon, protect the plant by temporarily laying a tarp around it to cover the roots’ span. 5) Protect Buds If Necessary Regardless of the hardiness rating of a blueberry bush, frost can potentially damage the flower buds, and fewer flowers mean fewer berries. As such, if a frost or unseasonable cold is anticipated late in spring after the bush has put up a good number of buds, they will need to be protected. “As winters are becoming milder on average but weather patterns more erratic, the biggest threat to my blueberry bushes in the southwest of the UK is late frosts damaging the early flowers,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I move my pots to a covered area and back out once night time temperatures have increased again.” You can do so by loosely wrapping horticultural fleece around branches where buds are seen. Undo the fleece during the height of the day and re-wrap in the evening. Remove the fleece as soon as normal spring temperatures are reached. References 1. Longstroth, M. (n.d.). The annual cycle of growth of northern highbush blueberry. Michigan State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Bluerry_CycleOfGrowth_Mark.pdf
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Late Autumn Is A Good Time To Re-Pot Blueberry Shrubs In Their Dormancy
IN THIS GUIDE When To Repot Blueberry Shrubs 1) Choose A Container 2) Prepare The Soil 3) Remove The Plant From Existing Container 4) Repot In A New Container 5) Water Regularly Blueberry plants are sold in pots and soon outgrow them, making it important to understand how and when they need to be potted on. When a potted blueberry bush outgrows its home or exhausts its soil, you have a choice: either transplant it in open ground or pot it up. If you re-pot a blueberry bush, one of the ways to ensure that the bush continues to flourish in its new container is to ensure that the soil pH remains acidic. We cover this issue of soil pH level and other key points in our guide below. Potting on your blueberry bush will be a smooth task with a successful outcome if you follow these steps: Choose a new suitable container for your blueberry plant. Prepare the new soil – ensuring you match conditions with those preferred by blueberries. Remove the plant from its existing container. Repot the plant into its new pot or location. Water regularly and feed when necessary. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, trowel, gardening shovel, goggles When To Repot November-March When To Repot Blueberry Shrubs Blueberry bushes should be repotted during dormancy, when the plant is not growing, which is anytime from late autumn to early spring. 1) Choose A Container Blueberry bushes are available in quite a range of sizes, from dwarf varieties to large shrubs. To figure out which pot size you should re-pot the bush to, you need to consider the growth rate of your plant and its ultimate height and spread. If the rate of growth of your bush is fast, then I’d recommend choosing a pot that is 2 sizes up from its current container. However, if the plant is close to its ultimate height, choose a pot that is only 1 size up. No matter what size of pot you chose, make sure that is has adequate draining holes at the base. 2) Prepare The Soil Blueberry bushes are acid-loving plants and require a soil pH level between 5.1-5.5, so an ericaceous compost should be used, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly advises: “I use a peat-free ericaceous plant for growing blueberries in containers. “These peat-free mixes can be more prone to symptoms of chlorosis (yellowing of leaves), which can be overcome with chelated iron applied in a liquid feed. “I find that when this starts to happen, it is time to repot with fresh peat-free ericaceous compost. “Peat does produce an ideal ingredient for ericaceous composts but at the cost of depleting threatened and carbon dioxide storing peat bogs.” If you prepare your own manure-based soil mix, you can do so with well-rotted chicken manure (but not horse or cattle manure). In either case, the soil you choose should drain well. Fill the new container to about halfway with this compost or soil, and dampen it. 3) Remove The Plant From Existing Container Water the potted plant so that the soil becomes damp all through. Insert a trowel into the side of the pot and move it around to separate the soil from the pot. Tilt the pot, and push it upward from the drainage holes whilst knocking on the pot to loosen the soil. Try to prise up the packed soil with the trowel to remove the plant from the pot. If you cannot pull up the plant without difficulty, it is easier and safer to just break the pot. Remove the plant and gently shake out some of the soil so that the roots are visible. If the roots are compacted or root-bound, carefully tease open and separate them. 4) Repot In A New Container Promptly set the plant in the new container with the roots spread out. Using a gardening shovel, start filling the container with the selected compost or soil. As you do so, make sure that the plant will be set at the same soil level in the new container as it was in the old one. Fill the container with the medium up to the point that the soil line of the plant is the same as it was in the old plant. Firm up the soil all around. 5) Water Regularly Water in the plant; soak the soil through. Even though the plant is dormant at the time you have re-potted it, it needs to be kept hydrated to recover from transplant shock. Thereafter, following re-potting, water the plant regularly. Water twice a week initially and then once a week. The soil should be moist but it should not be soggy or soaked.
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The Secret To Bountiful Blueberry Fruiting? Use Suitable Mulch And Feed Annually
IN THIS GUIDE Use Suitable Mulch Annual Feeding References Blueberries are native to North America and not only produce delicious fruits, but beautiful autumnal foliage and are well suited to our UK climate. Blueberry shrubs prefer a moist and well-drained soil and they aren’t known for being massively hungry feeders. However, there are times when blueberry shrubs can benefit from being fertilised. Use Suitable Mulch Whether grown directly in soil or in containers, blueberry plants benefit from a mulch on planting and annually in spring thereafter. A decent layer of mulch will not only give the plants a boost but help conserve moisture, keeping the soil moist which blueberries prefer as well as helping suppress any weeds. Mulches for blueberries need to be neutral or acidic, as they prefer ericaceous soil. It is advisable to avoid the use of well-rotted manure or mushroom compost as this can be alkaline and alter the pH of the soil. Suitable mulch material for blueberries can include leaf mould, ericaceous compost or composted pine needles and bark. Chlorosis Blueberry plants can sometimes develop yellowing of the leaves, potentially indicating that there may be chlorosis present, which is when the leaves don’t produce enough chlorophyll.1 Chlorosis in blueberries is most often caused by low levels of iron in the plant as a subsequence of the soil pH being too high. Blueberries require a maximum soil pH of 5.5 to grow well and produce a healthy crop of fruit in the summer. However, if the pH has risen above this, it can be lowered by using sulphur chips or sequestrene, which in turn may help the foliage produce enough chlorophyll and return to its normal green. “I tend to use a seaweed-based liquid feed for fruit in containers,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “If my blueberries start to yellow, I have a liquid seaweed feed with added sequestered iron that will alleviate the chlorotic symptoms. “There is likely to be an underlying reason that will need to be resolved, usually related to ensuring the soil pH is low enough.” Watch out for this and amend the pH of your soil as appropriate. Annual Feeding Blueberries grown in the ground don’t tend to need regular feeding, apart from an annual mulch and possibly an application of a nitrogen-rich fertiliser in spring. However, when blueberries are grown in containers, they will need feeding regularly during the growing season to replenish any leached nutrients. From April through to September it is recommended to apply an ericaceous feed every 4-6 weeks to encourage healthy growth and a good harvest. If a blueberry shrub grown in the ground is displaying signs of poor growth or fruit production, it may be advisable to apply an application of ericaceous feed as a one-off to see if it helps stimulate any growth. References 1. Fowler, A. (2018, August 18). Why is my blueberry bush turning yellow and producing hardly any fruit? The Guardian. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/oct/22/blueberry-bush-yellow-leaves-not-much-fruit-alys-fowler
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Blueberry Pruning Varies By Plant Age - These Are The Steps Depending On The Bush’s Age
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Year 1 Year 2 Year 3 Year 4 Years 5 & 6 Year 7 Blueberries are a delicious fruit and you can maximise your yield by correctly pruning your blueberry bush every year. However, there are a couple of non-negotiables when it comes to pruning blueberry bushes. Firstly, you have to prune at specific times of the year. Secondly, you also have to prune for different purposes and effects depending on the bush’s age. Be aware that the following instructions are for highbush cultivars (the blueberry most commonly grown in gardens) so please verify what type of blueberry bush you have. Also be sure to know the age of your blueberry bush because how you prune directly depends on the age of the plant. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Gardening gloves, goggles, pruning shears, secateurs When To Prune Winter or Spring When To Prune In a nutshell, pruning for the bush’s health and vigour should be done in midwinter, and pruning for the yield of fruit should be done in early spring just after buds become visible. Blueberry bushes should not be pruned in summer or autumn. Year 1 In midwinter, prune back branches that are weak or diseased, misplaced, or crossing or rubbing together. Where such branches occur near the base of the plant, cut them all off. Indeed, keep the lower part of the stem of the young plant free of branches. Soon after the bush buds sometime in early spring, it is time for the second round of pruning. Unlike succeeding years, this first year you will focus on all flowering and fruiting stems while ignoring shoots and foliage, as the aim is for the plant to gain vigour and develop before it starts to flower and fruit. Buds that are narrow and pointed and which typically form up to the midpoint of a cane will put out shoots and leaves, whilst buds that are rounder and swollen, and are typically seen closer to the ends and tips of a cane are flowering buds that will bear fruit. All of the latter types of buds need to go. Rub them off with your gloved hand or trim them with secateurs. “It can be tempting to harvest fruit straight away in the first year from fruit bushes but, with blueberries, think about focussing on the future structure and balance of the plant as an investment in future heavier crops,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant with over 13 years of experience in the industry. Year 2 In midwinter, prune those branches that are weak or diseased, misplaced, or crossing or rubbing together exactly as you did in year one. Also, keep the lower part of the stem free of branches. In addition, judiciously prune any cane in the centre that is growing upward or is bent inward to eliminate future congestion and foster good shape. In spring, you will not be pruning any canes in year two for age but you have a choice as to which buds to trim. Though you can leave a few flowering buds, it is best to proceed exactly as in year one. Sacrifice the fruit for just one more season so that the bush can direct its energies on gaining strength and vigour. Year 3 You can forego midwinter pruning in year three, but it is better to prune for shape and cane selection in midwinter. Prune unhealthy and congested canes, and select strong, healthy canes that are growing outward. Vigorous branches that are shooting out and up may be cut by a third for length and balance. Also, it is from this year that you can prune with an eye toward achieving a vase shape. This will allow sunlight to reach the centre of the plant and the main stem, and will also promote air circulation, both of which are critical factors in preventing disease. In year 3, the target should be to retain 3 canes from each of the 2 previous years, and about 3 new branches. In spring, strike a balance between removing vegetative buds and fruiting buds. I’d suggest that in this third season you can retain a third to half of the flowering and fruiting buds and rub out or trim the rest. Year 4 The guidelines for midwinter pruning are the same as they were the preceding year. In early spring, year 4 pruning will focus on the choice of canes to prune so as to retain the optimal mix of growth. From this year on out, the objective is that one-third of the canes should be one-year branches, one-third should be two-year canes, and one-third should be canes that are three years or more. Start by pruning unhealthy, crossed, congested, and distorted branches. Such pruning will predominantly remove new growth and three-year canes. Once this is done, pick and choose which other new and three-year canes to remove, if any more need to be pruned. Next, prune any canes that do not show flowering buds. You should be left with canes whose ages are about equally distributed, with 10-12 canes left on the maturing bush. Years 5 & 6 From year 5 you can skip midwinter pruning altogether, though feel free to prune branches that are dead, damaged, or diseased, and those canes that bore little or no berries. From year 5, the prime objective is to maximise fruit yield, but this is possible only if sub-objectives are achieved. “Prune, in the winter, only the old, tired, woody growth which has fruited for two years or more and which will produce only a few poor-quality berries in future,” recommends Lorraine Summers from Trehane Nursery. Keep the centre of the bush from becoming congested and strive to attain or maintain that vase shape. A cane that you wish to retain but which has shot out more than other canes, unbalancing the bush, may be cut back by up to a third. This will reduce fruiting on the cane but it may be necessary to cut it to maintain shape and balance while retaining the cane for structure and necessary foliage. As above, strive for an equal mix of growth from the past three years such that about one-third of the total canes are from each of the preceding three years. Keep the best of the new growth – selecting for fruiting buds and prune the rest. The maturing bush should have 12-15 canes in year 5 and 15-17 canes in year 6. Year 7 By year 7, if you have taken care of your blueberry bush and have been pruning it correctly, it will be strong and mature. It can support more branches and foliage, and bear more fruit, so from this year on out you can prune with a lighter hand. A Blueberry bush from year 7 on out can support 17-20 canes. In fact, it can support even more than 20 canes, but the goal is not to maximise branching, rather, it is to maximise fruiting while maintaining the bush’s health, vigour, and shape.
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Here's How To Make Sure You Only Harvest Your Blueberries When They're Ripe
IN THIS GUIDE Which Fruit Should Be Harvested? How To Harvest Blueberries Post-Harvesting Tips References Blueberry harvesting season begins in early June and ends in late September. Your specific harvesting period will depend to a great extent on your cultivar and to a lesser extent on your region and on the climate and weather during that particular season. In this guide we explain the harvesting process in more detail. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves and goggles (both optional) When To Harvest June-September Which Fruit Should Be Harvested? Blueberries go through several stages as they ripen on the bush. Immature blueberries have a pinkish flush and are small and hard. Unripe berries will be pinkish-purple or reddish-purple. Ripe blueberries will be bigger and will present a full or swollen appearance, and will ‘give’ a bit under gentle finger pressure. They will have that familiar dull, dusky, blotchy, deep blue tone. It is these berries that you should pick. How To Harvest Blueberries As stated above, the particular month(s) that you can harvest your blueberries depend on your cultivar and a couple of other factors that are not quite as important. The harvesting itself is an ongoing and periodic task during the season, as you will pick blueberries over a span of about 4 weeks for any given cultivar. Try to pick the berries about every 3 days, the idea being to pick those berries that are just ripe, leaving the rest to mature but also not letting the fruit get over-ripe. Gently hold a ripe blueberry (or even a ripe cluster) between your forefinger and thumb and pluck it off with a twisting motion. If it does not come off the branch, it is probably not ripe. That said, some cultivars hold on to their berries a little more than others. Picking blueberries will be easier if you grasp and steady the branch with your free hand. Post-Harvesting Tips Do not wash all your blueberries after picking them. When you wash berries (or any skinless fruit) the process of ripening accelerates, so washed fruit will quickly spoil and will not keep well.1 Wash only before eating the berries. Blueberries are luscious fresh off the bush, and are equally luscious in preserves and compotes, and also in baked treats. Bear in mind that blueberries will keep in the freezer for a year, so you can certainly enjoy them until the next harvesting season comes around. “Freezing is a great way to preserve your soft fruit to enjoy during the winter months,” shares Colin Skelly, a Professional Gardener and Consultant. “I try to avoid the temptation of eating all of the fruit as I pick it from the bush and try to save about half for freezing for future use.” Remove any fruit that is dinged or soft and put small quantities – preferably in a single layer – in an airtight bag. Put a few such bags in a lightweight plastic box and put that in the freezer. References 1. Thomson, J. R. (2016, July 13). Why You Should Never Wash Your Fruit Before Refrigerating It. HuffPost UK. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/storing-summer-berries_n_5783934de4b0344d514ff10e
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Grow Blueberries In Pots To Help Create The Perfect pH And Moisture Levels
IN THIS GUIDE Are Blueberries Suitable For Pots? Sourcing Ideal Containers Potting Up Blueberry Plants Potted Blueberry Care References Blueberry shrubs not only produce delicious fruit but look great when they flower in spring and their foliage turns red in the autumn. Originating from North America, blueberries are well suited to our climate here in the UK, especially when grown in pots and containers.1 Are Blueberries Suitable For Pots? Absolutely! Blueberries have certain soil and climatic requirements that need to be met in order for them to thrive and produce the delicious fruit they are grown for. “My garden has slightly acidic soil but a low enough pH for blueberries to thrive,” says Colin Skelly, a Professional Gardener & Horticulturist with over 13 years of experience. “I grow my blueberries in pots so that I can create the perfect pH and moisture levels using ericaceous compost. “They are moisture-hungry in summer, particularly in prolonged dry spells, so a water butt would be a good idea if you don’t already have one. “This has the added bonus of collecting pH-neutral rain water.” Growing blueberries in pots is ideal as the soil can be chosen to suit their needs and the planters moved to protect them from the worst of the winter weather. Sourcing Ideal Containers There are many different varieties of blueberry available to grow here in the UK, with ‘Blue Crop’ and ‘Duke’ perhaps being the most commonly grown. The eventual size of blueberry shrubs can differ hugely depending on the variety, ranging from dwarf varieties that grow up to 1m to large bushes growing as high and wide as 3m. When choosing a container to grow blueberries in, make sure it will be able to accommodate the shrub’s eventual size and root system, but as a general rule, a 30cm diameter pot is the minimum for a newly planted shrub. “You can grow blueberries in containers, but as small plants, they don’t like to be overpotted,” says Lorraine Summers, the owner of the specialist blueberry retailer Trehane Nursery. “Plant into a container that is 2-2.5 times the volume of the pot your plant is in now. “Ensure that the pot has good drainage holes and cover the holes with coarse gravel to prevent clogging with compost.” As mentioned, blueberries require free-draining soil, so any container used will require adequate drainage holes to allow any excess water to escape freely. Remember that blueberry plants prefer moist, but well-drained ericaceous soil with an acidic pH. Potting Up Blueberry Plants Water the blueberry plant thoroughly before planting and half-fill the chosen pot or container with ericaceous compost. Remove the plant from its pot, place it in the container and backfill it with more compost, gently firming it in as you go. Ensure that the blueberry is planted at the same depth it was previously and water in well. “Ericaceous compost must be used and potting up is done every two or three years until the final container can be used, which should be of at least 50 litres capacity,” says Lorraine. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? It is advisable to only plant one blueberry plant per pot or container, as they develop a tightly packed fibrous root system in the space they are given and do not like to be overcrowded. Even though many blueberry varieties are described as self-fertile and will produce a good crop, growing two or more varieties nearby can increase not only fruit size, but yields as well. Potted Blueberry Care Watering When it comes to watering blueberries, rainwater is the preferred choice as tap water can raise the pH of the soil. Blueberries require moist, but not wet soil and will need watering regularly, especially after planting and during the summer months when they are actively growing. Feeding Blueberry shrubs can be hungry feeders and certainly benefit from an ericaceous liquid fertiliser applied during the growing season from April to September. Overwintering Many blueberry varieties are fully hardy, but some are not and even those that are can suffer from the extremely low temperatures and wet conditions of winter. One of the many benefits of growing blueberries in containers is that they can be moved undercover or to an unheated greenhouse to avoid the worst of the winter weather. Re-Potting Blueberry shrubs can need re-potting either due to outgrowing their current container or when their soil needs refreshing, which can be every 2-3 years. If the blueberry’s roots are visible through the container’s drainage holes this is an indication that it needs re-potting into a larger pot, which can be done in either spring or autumn. To re-pot, remove the blueberry from its current container by squeezing the pot sides or if necessary, sliding an old knife down between the pot and the soil. Inspect the roots and if root-bound or severely congested, gently tease out some of the roots. Fill the bottom of the new container with fresh ericaceous compost and place the plant ensuring it is at the same depth as it was previously planted. Backfill with compost and water thoroughly. If re-potting becomes difficult due to the size of the shrub, then it can be top-dressed instead, which is when the top 5-7cm of compost is replaced each year to replenish any lost nutrients. Protecting Fruit As with blueberries grown in the ground, container-grown shrubs will need their fruit protected from any birds. As soon as the berries start to turn blue, fleece or fine netting can be placed over the shrub to form a barrier against pigeons and blackbirds who can strip the berries bare if they are not protected. The fruits are ready to harvest when they have fully changed colour and there is no hint of green left. Pruning Whether grown in the ground or in containers, blueberry shrubs can benefit from an annual prune carried out when they are dormant in winter. New blueberries don’t need much pruning, apart from removing any wayward stems or shortening them to encourage branching. From the third year onwards, annual pruning involves removing any dead, diseased or rubbing branches. As the shrub matures, up to 25% of the oldest and thickest stems can either be pruned back to a strong shoot lower down or removed at the base, to encourage new growth which will fruit the following year. References 1. The Blueberry: An American native. (2021, October 27). Berkeley Horticultural Nursery. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://berkeleyhort.com/gardening-suggestions/the-blueberry-an-american-native-2/
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11 Delicious Blueberry Varieties With Lorraine Summer From Trehane Nursery
IN THIS GUIDE 1) V. corymbosum ‘Duke’ 2) V. corymbosum ‘Spartan’ 3) V. ‘Berkeley’ 4) V. ‘Chandler’ 5) V. corymbosum ‘Patriot’ 6) V. ‘Sunshine Blue’ 7) V. ‘Pink Lemonade’ 8) V. ‘Top Hat’ 9) V. corymbosum ‘Hortblue Petite’ 10) V. ‘Herbert’ 11) V. corymbosum ‘Aurora’ References Blueberries are botanically named Vaccinium corymbosum and are part of the Ericaceae family. Native to North America, blueberry shrubs produce delicious fruits and beautiful autumnal foliage and can grow well here in the UK’s climate.1 “I like ‘Berkeley’ as its berries are very sweet,” shares Lorraine Summer, owner of Trehane Nursery, which specialises in blueberry plants. “‘Chandler’ and ‘Herbert’ also have a very good flavour and are favourites of mine.” What follows are eleven popular types of blueberries which can be grown in the UK, including some very special RHS AGM recipients. “There are Blueberry cultivars more suitable for smaller gardens that grow 0.5m-1m high & wide,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. I grow a couple of these in my garden, including V. ‘Sunshine Blue’ and V. ‘Top Hat’, and these produce a large crop on relatively small bushes. “The taste of home grown blueberries picked straight from the bush is a real summer highlight in the garden.” All of the varieties mentioned below must be grown in acidic, loam or sandy soil in full sun or part-shade in a sheltered location. Also, they all bear fruit in the summer and are H6 hardy unless otherwise mentioned, meaning they can be grown in any and all areas of the UK throughout the year. 1) V. corymbosum ‘Duke’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Duke’ FOLIAGE: Green, red and yellow FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer FRUIT: Black and blue TYPICAL SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Perhaps one of the most readily available blueberries, ‘Duke’ is one of the larger cultivars that can grow to an eventual height of up to 2.5m. Producing good size berries with a sweet flavour, it is no wonder it is so commonly grown not only domestically, but commercially as well. Flowering later than others, but often ripening early, it can be an excellent choice for growing in areas where late frosts can present a problem. Rated H6 for hardiness, blueberry ‘Duke’ can tolerate the worst of winters and temperatures as low as -15-20°C. 2) V. corymbosum ‘Spartan’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Spartan’ FOLIAGE: Green, red and yellow FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Black and blue TYPICAL SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Blueberry ‘Spartan’ is another popular variety which, unlike its name suggests, produces good crops. Slightly smaller than ’Duke’, blueberry ‘Spartan’ will reach 1.5m in height and spread over time with an upright and bushy habit. Fruiting from July, it is a vigorous shrub that produces deep blue-coloured berries with a good flavour. Having received the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), it has proven to perform reliably well. 3) V. ‘Berkeley’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Berkeley’ FOLIAGE: Green, red and yellow FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Blue TYPICAL SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread With its spreading habit and large fruits, blueberry ‘Berkeley’ is a later fruiting shrub which is ready for harvesting in late July. With vigorous growth, it can reach a little over 1m in height and spread over time and, as with all blueberries, requires an ericaceous soil. Blueberry ‘Berkeley’ ripens to lighter blue, yet do not let this put you off as it is often recommended for its sweet and firm berries that are easy to pick. 4) V. ‘Chandler’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Chandler’ FOLIAGE: Green, red and yellow FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT: Black and blue TYPICAL SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread For the biggest fruits, blueberry ‘Chandler’ is certainly worth considering as it can produce delicious berries up to 2cm. A mid to late-season blueberry, ‘Chandler’ ripens slowly throughout the picking season and has lovely autumnal foliage. With a bushy habit, this blueberry shrub can grow up to 1.5m tall and wide if given the right conditions. 5) V. corymbosum ‘Patriot’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Patriot’ FOLIAGE: Green and red FLOWERS: White and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer FRUIT: Black and blue TYPICAL SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread One of the larger blueberry shrubs, ‘Patriot’ can grow to a final size of 2.5m tall as it matures. Fruiting in July, ‘Patriot’ is an early-season blueberry that produces mid-blue coloured and medium-sweet berries with an excellent flavour. More tolerable of soil conditions than others, it can be a good choice for those growing on less-than-ideal ground conditions. 6) V. ‘Sunshine Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Sunshine Blue’ FOLIAGE: Green, red and purple FLOWERS: White and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Blue TYPICAL SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread If growing space is limited, then a smaller and more compact blueberry shrub such as ‘Sunshine Blue’ may be more suitable. Blueberry ‘Sunshine Blue’ will have an eventual size of only 1m high and half as wide, making it ideal for growing in smaller spaces or containers. A semi-evergreen blueberry shrub, it displays bright pink flowers before fruiting and its foliage provides lovely autumnal interest as the leaves turn purple-red. 7) V. ‘Pink Lemonade’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Pink Lemonade’ FOLIAGE: Green, red and yellow FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Pink TYPICAL SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread For something totally different, this deciduous blueberry shrub produces blueberries, that are not blue as normal, but pink. Blueberry ‘Pink Lemonade’ is a new self-fertile cultivar introduced from North America that produces pink flowers followed by pink blueberries which are firm with a delicious and mild flavour. Growing to a height and spread of 1.5m with a bushy habit, ‘Pink Lemonade’ is a mid- to late-season blueberry with lovely autumnal leaves which turn a deep red before falling for the winter. 8) V. ‘Top Hat’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Top Hat’ FOLIAGE: Green and bronze FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Blue TYPICAL SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread For a dwarf and compact blueberry that is ideal for containers or the patio, blueberry ‘Top Hat’ is perfect as it will only grow to 50cm tall and wide. With white flowers in spring that produce flavoursome sky blue blueberries from July to August, it looks great coming into autumn as its foliage turns red. Preferring full sun, ‘Top Hat’, if grown in a container, will need frequent watering, especially when fruits are forming, as pots tend to dry out more quickly. 9) V. corymbosum ‘Hortblue Petite’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Hortblue petite’ FOLIAGE: Green, red and blue FLOWERS: White and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Blue TYPICAL SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Blueberry ‘Hortblue Petite’ is rather special as it is a new cultivar that has been bred to crop twice in a growing season. Fruiting in July and then September, it will produce delicious dark blue berries on a compact shrub that will only grow to an eventual size of 1m high with a 0.75m spread. Like ‘Top Hat’, ‘Hortblue Petite’ is well suited to growing in a container, but can equally be grown in the ground in a sheltered and south-facing position. As with other container-grown blueberries, it will benefit from a monthly liquid ericaceous feed throughout the growing period. 10) V. ‘Herbert’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Herbert’ FOLIAGE: Green, red, orange and yellow FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Blue TYPICAL SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Well known for its excellent flavour and large berries, blueberry ‘Herbert’ is a large shrub that will need space. Reaching a size of 2.5m tall over time, it is a vigorous blueberry with an upright habit and produces fruit from late July to August. Being deciduous, its green foliage turns a lovely bright red come autumn before dropping for the winter. With a hardiness rating of H4, it is less hardy than some other blueberry cultivars, so care might be needed if the winter temperatures drop severely. 11) V. corymbosum ‘Aurora’ COMMON NAME(S): blueberry ‘Aurora’ FOLIAGE: Green, red, purple, orange and yellow FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT: Blue TYPICAL SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread For fruits to harvest later in the season, blueberry ‘Aurora’ produces large deep blue berries with a rich flavour from August into September. A large cultivar with an upright habit, ‘Aurora’ can grow to 2.5m in height and spread when mature if given the right conditions and enough space to grow. Providing intense autumnal foliage, blueberry ‘Aurora’ has great ornamental qualities before turning dormant for the colder months. References 1. The history of blueberries: From Native American staple to domesticated superfood. (2019, January 19). University of Illinois. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/garden-scoop/2019-01-19-history-blueberries-native-american-staple-domesticated-superfood
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You Can Prune Camellia After Flowering, But Be Careful Not To Cut Back Too Hard
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Deadhead Throughout The Flowering Season 2) Prune Back After Flowering 3) Hard Prune Dying Shrubs In March Camellias are reckoned to be plants of choice for formal gardens, but no matter what your garden type, one of the 3,000-plus hybrids will make a lovely evergreen bush to display beside your front door. So how much time would you have to set aside for a camellia shrub if you grew one? Well, where pruning is concerned, camellias are considered low-maintenance plants. You don’t have to prune a camellia shrub at all, but if you would like to keep your bush in tip-top shape here are a few pointers: Deadhead throughout the flowering season. Prune your camellia after the flowering period is over. To revive a dying camellia shrub, you can hard prune in March. These optional tasks are explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs or pruning shears When To Prune Deadhead throughout flowering season, prune back once flowering has finished 1) Deadhead Throughout The Flowering Season Deadheading is an ongoing gardening task that can be carried out during the flowering season. This task can be carried out to maximise the plant’s ornamental value and to stop the production of seeds, which will help the plant focus on producing more beautiful blooms. Simply pinch off withering (or withered) blooms by holding the stalk between thumb and fingers and pulling off with a quick twist-turn. Alternatively, you can always use secateurs for more assured and cleaner deadheading if you are uncertain about pinching off wilting blooms. Simply cut the stalk 2-3cm from the flower. See more on deadheading here. 2) Prune Back After Flowering Patricia Short from the International Camellia Society suggests that your camellia flowers might not need to go to waste after the flowering season has ended: “If pruning is needed to keep a plant in shape or to fit a space, prune as you would roses, right after blooming has ended. “Alternatively, you can cut some smaller blooming branches to bring inside, for a vase. “They might not last as long as roses, but you will still have a few days of pleasure, while still shaping the plant as desired”. Maintenance pruning can be done any time of the year, though the best time to do so is soon after the end of the flowering season. The majority of camellia varieties are naturally well-shaped shrubs, so pruning for shape is not really necessary nor do I advise it. However, in order to foster an even shape (globular and oval are most common) feel free to prune straggly branches that are jutting out with a pair of secateurs. Apart from that, cut off any diseased or dead branches at the point of attachment. 3) Hard Prune Dying Shrubs In March I do not recommend that you hard prune camellias without good reason. Where camellias are concerned, hard pruning should only be necessary in rare cases, such as when the bush has somehow become seriously misshapen and unsightly or is badly infested with pests or disease. If you must do a hard prune, do so from mid-late February to early-mid March. Using pruning shears, cut down the bush by up to two-thirds so that only one-third remains. “Pay attention to planting distances when selecting new camellias,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “There is always a temptation to plant too closely, which in time will mean that the plants compete and can cause misshapen growth as plants reach for the light. “If inherited, this can be managed by selectively removing branches to provide space for each plant or the plants can be pruned hard back to start from scratch. “This will look severe but can be the quickest way to restore order.” Be sure to feed the bush after any hard prune. Bear in mind that after a hard prune, the plant will likely take 2-3 years before it resumes proper flowering.
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Vigorous But Dramatic - Growing Brugmansia Can Be A Test Of A Gardener's Skills
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Brugmansia? Common Varieties Where to Grow Planting Guidelines Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems References Brugmansia, also known as ‘Angel’s Trumpets’, is a show-stopping tropical plant. These plants are popularly grown as ornamental plants – typically in containers. Brugmansia are large shrubs or small trees, with large, pendulous flowers shaped like trumpets. Overview Botanical Name Brugmansia Common Name(s) Angel’s Trumpets Plant Type Shrub / Tree Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Trumpet-shaped flowers in various hues When To Plant Any time if grown indoors, Spring-Autumn if outdoors When To Prune Late summer Brugmansia is a genus with seven species in the Solanaceae, or nightshade family.1 Interestingly, though native to tropical regions of South America, Brugmansia is never found in natural settings, except as escapes from cultivation, and is believed to be extinct in the wild.2 However, the genus has survived due to human cultivation and has naturalised in isolated tropical regions around the world. They are fairly vigorous growers and can reach over 2m in height. It is the flowers, of course, which give these plants their common name, ‘Angel’s Trumpets’. These dramatic flowers can be up to 50cm long and 35cm wide at their largest, and they come in a wide range of different colours. Most flowers have a strong and pleasing fragrance which is most noticeable at dusk. A number of cultivars and hybrids of Brugmansia have been developed for use as ornamental plants. Why Grow Brugmansia? Brugmansia is, of course, popular due to its large, show-stopping flowers. These flowers hang in abundance from the branches all summer long. The flowers are appealing, not only for their appearance but also for their fragrance. It can bring an exotic feel to a summer container garden, or to the inside of your home. Growing Brugmansia can be a test of a gardener’s skills. These tropical plants will need quite a lot of care and attention, but the stunning flowers and evening scent means that these are plants which can certainly reward your efforts, and you are sure to impress any visitors with a mature specimen. Common Varieties Recommended cultivars for UK gardeners include: B. x candida ‘Grand Marnier’ B. arborea ‘Knightii’ B. suaveolens B. x cubensis ‘Golden Lady’ B. sanguinea x vulcanicola ‘Zunac 4’ Where to Grow Brugmansia is grown in containers in the UK, and is either grown inside year-round or brought indoors over the winter months and placed outside in a sunny and sheltered spot in summer. As a tropical plant, Brugmansia must absolutely be protected from the winter cold, as it cannot tolerate temperatures below 7-10°C. Make sure that you also have the space to accommodate these plants which, as mentioned above, can grow rather tall. If you plan on growing Brugmansia indoors throughout the year, they will need to be positioned in a location with plenty of bright light, such as in a conservatory, or beside a large south-facing window. You might also grow Brugmansia in a heated greenhouse space where temperatures can be kept consistently above around 10°C. Brugmansias can also be placed outside as soon as temperatures are reliably above around 10°C, in the summer months. A suitable position for your container-grown Brugmansia outside will be a warm and sheltered location, in partial shade or full sun. Planting in partial shade can be preferable because the plants will dry out less quickly in warmer weather. One thing to note is that Brugmansia do require plenty of water, as they do not like dry conditions. When placed outdoors in summer, they will do better in areas where there is plenty of summer rain. In regions where summers are drier, irrigation will be crucial and you will need to pay particularly close attention to watering. Outdoors, Brugmansia will look particularly pleasing as a focal point. A large container with a Brugmansia will be at home in an exotic or tropical-style container garden, on a sheltered urban patio or in a courtyard garden, or in a garden with a Mediterranean feel. They pair well with dahlias, cannas, and other exotic and bold tropical or subtropical plants. Planting Guidelines Note, when dealing with and planting Brugmansia, that gloves are always essential. Brugmansias are best planted indoors between late winter and early spring, and, if you plan on putting them outdoors over the summer, only place them outdoors once nighttime temperatures are reliably above 7-10°C. When moving the plants from indoors to outside, it is important to harden off the plants to allow them to gradually acclimatise to outdoors conditions. Purchased Brugmansia plants should be potted up into large containers of around 60cm in diameter. It is a good idea to choose a pot which retains water well, though there should be drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. These pots can be filled with a John Innes No. 3 compost or equivalent. At the time of planting, it is very important to water the plants in well to ensure good establishment. Spread an organic mulch over the surface of the pot to aid in water retention. “What you are aiming for with your planting mix is functional water retention without waterlogging,” says Horticultural Instructor and Consultant Dan Ori. “I have 2 planting mixes that I have had success with when growing Brugmansia. “The first is two-parts John Innes No.3 compost to one-part horticultural grit or perlite (perlite being a favoured option as it is lighter in weight). “The second is one-part good quality peat-free multi-purpose compost, one-part hydrated coir and one-part vermiculite.” Ongoing Plant Care Brugmansia are not suited to those looking for a low-maintenance option. Watering is crucial, and not providing sufficient water is the most common problem. However, there is a range of other crucial things to bear in mind, even when these plants are grown in an optimal location. Watering Brugmansia require generous watering throughout the growing season from spring to autumn. Check compost daily and do not let it dry out. Watering every day is usually required and you may even need to water twice a day during hot periods. It is best to water in the early morning (and perhaps again in the evening) when temperatures are lower. Remember, Brugmansia will need more water if grown in full sun outdoors. However, while Brugmansia like plenty of water, they cannot cope with waterlogging, so make sure that as well as supplying sufficient water, you also make sure that the drainage is good enough to prevent this issue. Plants that do not receive sufficient water may well still survive, but they can lack in vigour and they may not flower as prolifically, or fail to flower at all if there are drought conditions. Over the winter, water needs will be much lower. You should water still, but only occasionally, since the plants will not be in active growth. Feeding Brugmansias, as vigorous plants, need plenty of nutrition to grow well. It is best to apply organic mulch not only for water conservation but also for slow-release fertility. You should also feed Brugmansia once a month during the spring with a balanced organic liquid feed. In summer, you should then switch to a potassium-rich feed and water with this at least once a week to encourage good flowering. Winter Care There are two options when it comes to winter care for Brugmansia. If you have placed your Angels Trumpets outside during the summer, it is important to bring it back inside before temperatures fall below 7-10°C at night. You can then choose to keep the plant in a warm bright spot, where it may even flower, or you can overwinter it as a dormant plant, placing it in a cool but not cold location with little or no light. The plant kept dormant will lose its leaves and some of the shoots may die back, but it should recover in the spring. Pruning In autumn, when a plant is brought inside if it was outside over the summer, this is the time to think about pruning. The goal is to maintain a permanent framework of branches which are healthy and well-spaced. You can cut back new growth to within 2.5cm of the older wood, and may also wish to remove suckers around the base of the plant to keep it as a single-stemmed tree. If a Brugmansia has become overgrown, these plants can also tolerate hard renovation pruning. Propagation If you would like to produce new Angel’s Trumpets plants from your existing one, you can do so by taking semi-ripe and softwood cuttings. Cuttings should be around 10-15cm long and will root readily when placed into a sandy, free-draining medium with bottom heat of 18-21°C in spring, or in the late autumn. Seeds can also be sown in spring in a heated propagator providing temperatures of around 16°C. As mentioned, however, both cuttings and seeds will take quite some time to become plants of flowering size. Repotting Brugmansia should be repotted into a slightly larger container every 3-4 years. Failing to repot may cause issues. Common Problems Not Flowering If your plant is not flowering, it may simply be too small. Brugmansia need to reach a particular size before they will start to bloom. Once the plants form a single stem of 1m or so and start to branch out, they are usually ready to flower. Cuttings may take 3 years or so to reach this stage, and those grown from seed even longer. However, other issues can also cause a lack of flowering on sufficiently mature plants. There may have been an issue with insufficient watering, insufficient feeding (particularly a lack of potassium), or the container may be too small. Pests Other issues that may arise when caring for a Brugmansia, particularly when growing under cover year-round, are pests. Common pests of Angel’s Trumpets include red spider mites, whitefly and mealybugs. Organic pest control largely involves remaining vigilant, and manual removal of pests when they are noticed. Organic sprays may sometimes be required for serious infestations, and biological controls might be considered in a greenhouse. Brugmansia are not the easiest plants to grow, but they could be a good challenge for more experienced gardeners or houseplant owners to take on – and when cared for correctly, they can provide you with beautiful flowering displays each summer for many years to come. References 1. Angel’s Trumpets. (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/62900-Brugmansia 2. Pasiecznik, N. (2014). Brugmansia suaveolens (white angel’s trumpet). CABI Compendium, CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.107903
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