Growing
Grow These 8 Container Plants In Shaded Areas For Extra Colour And Character
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Hostas 2) Ferns 3) Begonia 4) Coleus 5) Golden Creeping Jenny 6) Impatiens 7) Carex 8) Boxwood No Need To Throw Shade Got a shady spot in your garden that’s a little lacking in colour and character? It’s tempting to leave this space alone and focus your growing efforts on bright, sunlit areas. But with the right guidance, it’s possible to get a vivid and exciting bloom established in areas that the sunlight doesn’t always visit. “I have pots of ferns, trailing ivy and epimediums tucked by a hedge in permanent shade,” shares Sunil Patel from 13 Broom Acres. “It’s dry under there and I often forget to water those pots as they’re separate from the others, but they still grow.” In this guide, we’ve rounded up some of the best plants that will thrive in containers in the shadiest parts of your garden. After reading this guide you’ll realise that a shady section of your garden is nothing to shy away from. Rather, it’s the source of endless opportunity to plant and enjoy a different set of plants from what you might otherwise see. Once you get into the swing of these shade-loving customers you’ll realise just how rewarding they can be. 1) Hostas HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL REQUIREMENTS: CLAY OR LOAM; MOIST BUT WELL DRAINED This is a broad and inclusive family of plants, with differing varieties sporting all sorts of colours, shapes, and moods. Hostas have particular suitability to shaded conditions, making this a perfect plant to get acquainted with if you’ve got a shady garden! There are plenty of varieties to choose from, but here are three to whet your whistle: H. ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ Cutely and aptly named, the delicate bluey purple flowers of this diminutive hosta variety give a nice and unobtrusive splash of colour. Expect a maximum size of 0.5 x 0.5m. H. ‘June’ Clocking in at a similar size to blue mouse ears, this variety boasts variegated leaves, with green and white-yellow intermingling to create a striking aesthetic. H. ‘Francee’ Slightly bigger at 1m²; the ‘Francee’ variety also sports variegated leaves. This time, however, the green is on the inside and skirted by white, rather than the other way round. Great for creating contrast! 2) Ferns HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED SUNLIGHT: ANY SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY Head to any woodland and you’ll probably see a carpet of fern lining the ground beneath the soaring tree canopies. If this isn’t a testament to the plant’s ability to thrive in shady conditions, we don’t know what is! And not only are ferns well-suited to shade, but they’re a pleasure to look at as well. They have a rugged image and a dazzling spectrum of green that will brighten up even the dreariest corner of your garden. Again, we’ve selected a few varieties to help get you started: Dryopteris affinis (Scaly Male Fern) This deciduous fern does well in damp conditions, giving you options if your shady spot is also a little moist. In terms of looks this aligns very closely with your ‘average’ fern. Adiantum venustum (Evergreen Maidenhair) This evergreen fern also handles damp well, and the year-round foliage will hold strong appeal to some gardeners. Smaller, rounder leaves also create a distinctive aesthetic. Top Tip: If you’re working with a dry spot rather than a damp one, varieties like asplenium, polypodium, and dryopteris should do you well. See more varieties in this guide. 3) Begonia HARDINESS RATING: H2 PREFERRED SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL REQUIREMENTS: SAND OR LOAM; MOIST BUT WELL DRAINED Here’s another plant particularly well-suited to shade. Just take a look at the selection of begonia varieties available and you’ll quickly see that it’s a medley of shapes and colours to enliven any garden space. We recommend the B. ‘Illumination’ series as a good jump-off point for this flower: the bold orange bloom will draw the eye and set off the greens, whites, and yellows likely to surround it in a display of shade-loving plants. If orange isn’t your thing you’ll have no trouble finding yellows, reds, pinks, purples, whites, and more. With a little time and energy invested, creating a stunning display from begonias is well within your reach. 4) Coleus HARDINESS RATING: H1C PREFERRED SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY; MOIST BUT WELL DRAINED Here’s another plant just bursting with colour, and not just via its flowers. Scroll through a list of coleus and you’ll see vibrant red leaves with green zig zags, yellow leaves with mottled red flecks, purple leaves that fade to pink and white towards the centre, and many other exciting combinations. Used well, coleus can provide an exciting and invigorating backdrop for other flowers in your display of shade-loving plants. It’s easy to forget about colour when working in an area of your garden with specific conditions. But try not to fall into this trap: explore different combinations; explore unexpected colours. Mix them up and see what happens, and you may find this becomes one of the most exciting areas of your garden! To get you started with coleus, here are the varieties that correspond to the colour combinations we mentioned previously: C. ‘Glory of Luxembourg’ Red leaves with green zig zags. C. ‘Pineapplette’ Yellow leaves with mottled red flecks. C. ‘Wizard Rose’ Green foliage that fades to cream and red towards the centre. 5) Golden Creeping Jenny HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, also known as golden creeping Jenny, is a beautiful plant that forms a mat of vibrant yellow flowers at ground level. Just like ferns, this is a plant you’d expect to see winding its way around high tree trunks in thick woodland, and it’s a surefire way to bring this ambience into your garden. And what’s more, the yellow colour stays year-round, keeping this plant visually interesting and engaging in all seasons. We’ve included this because it’s an excellent reminder that not all shady container displays need to rely on plants that clock in at similar heights. A ground-level burst of yellow-topped by graduated heights of colourful plants like begonia and coleus will create stunning displays that bring your sun-free spots to life. 6) Impatiens HARDINESS RATING: H1C PREFERRED SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL REQUIREMENTS: LOAM; MOIST BUT WELL DRAINED There’s no better time to introduce impatiens than while we’re on the subject of colour. These delicate and dainty flowers bring an enchanting feel to any garden lucky enough to be graced by their company, and we definitely recommend considering them for your shady container displays. If you’re looking for something attractive and colourful that will thrive in the shade, you can’t go wrong here. There are plenty of varieties ranging in height, colour, and feel – meaning that some combination will work perfectly for your garden. Impatiens walleriana is a great starting point. 7) Carex HARDINESS RATING: VARIES PREFERRED SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL REQUIREMENTS: CLAY OR LOAM; POORLY DRAINED This plant could pass as a grass to the untrained observer, and while it technically isn’t a grass, it looks great when used with other ornamental grasses as prairie-style backdrops for shady container displays. Choosing a variety of plants for your displays is an important part of getting a really distinctive visual effect. We’ve mentioned height and colour before, and while introducing carex it’s a good time to think about how combining subtle and flamboyant plants can lead to a well-balanced and harmonious display. Different carex varieties offer green, variegated green and white, and even bronzish brown leaves, giving you lots of options when choosing the right one to accompany the other plants in your shade container. “Carex is fast becoming one of my most used plants for shade,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “It can tie other elements of planting together, as grasses can. There are variegated cultivars to catch the eye as well as species with more subtle charm.” 8) Boxwood HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SUNLIGHT: ANY SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY These evergreen shrubs offer something a little different to the gardener looking for container plants to grow in shade. Where previously we’ve looked at plants that combine well into displays, a boxwood shrub probably works best as a standalone plant in its own containers. If you’re a fan of shrubs and topiary, this will be a good one for you. The bold green leaves look fantastic in mottled sunlight, and shady conditions will help this plant to grow its best – strong sun can scorch and discolour the leaves, eventually causing lasting damage if not rectified. No Need To Throw Shade Hopefully this article has shown you that working with a shady garden doesn’t force you to grow dull and uninteresting plants and flowers. As you’ve seen in our little showcase, there are tons of options available to you when designing a container display for a shady spot: you’ve got the boisterous medleys of colour from begonia and impatiens. Back these up with ferns and carex and you’ve got a rugged blanket centred around luscious greens. Mix with other plants and you open up a world of possibilities. “If you have a patio in a more shaded area, lots of plants with different textures will make it feel really luxurious,” adds TV Presenter Flo Headlam. “It’s all about dressing it like you would an inside room, so if it’s bright and airy, you want colour, scent and movement, and if it’s cool, foliage, texture and different-sized plants will work best.” Remember, too, that this list is not exhaustive. There are literally thousands of plants that will grow well in shade, so the deeper you dig into this area, the more options will be revealed to you. We hope you enjoy designing and planting your shade container display, and also watching it burst steadily into bloom over the coming months.
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7 Reasons Your Conifers Are Turning Brown With Feeding Advice From Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE Why Your Conifer Is Turning Brown 1) Not Enough Water 2) The Wrong Compost 3) Not Enough Space 4) Choose The Right Spot 5) Make Sure There’s Drainage 6) Not Enough Nutrients 7) Don’t Prune Too Hard! Enjoying Your Evergreens Conifers turning brown is a surprisingly common problem for gardeners in the UK. And whenever bright evergreen begins to fade into a sickly brown, it is indicative of a wider issue with the conditions your conifer is growing in. At first only a few needles might change colour, but others follow suit until eventually, the healthy hue disappears completely. And it’s usually one of the same handful of problems that interfere with their ability to do so. Why Your Conifer Is Turning Brown When you think about it, plants need very little to thrive. It’s just a case of getting the right soil, the right levels of water and sunlight, enough space for the roots, and a careful eye to ensure that any issues are nipped in the bud. While different varieties have varying needs, common problems with conifers tend to centre around the same things, so let’s take a look at the various issues you may encounter. 1) Not Enough Water These trees are used to growing in environments where the weather may not be particularly pleasant. They can handle melting snowdrifts and all sorts of wetness. Sitting in the small amount of dry soil that fits in a container then, probably isn’t ideal. If you’re growing a conifer take care to keep it very well watered. More so than you probably expect: sometimes they require watering twice in the same day during particularly hot spells. And if you see water seeping out from the bottom of the pot, this can be a good indication that the roots are taking up too much space in the soil or that you’re using the wrong compost. In the first instance, there’s just not enough soil available to soak up the moisture required to keep the plant alive. And in the second instance, the soil is unable to hold enough moisture regardless of whether there’s enough of it. 2) The Wrong Compost Conifers need compost that retains moisture, and regular potting compost won’t do the trick, unfortunately. A soil-based mix with added material like composted leaf bark or leaf mould will help to hold more moisture, and to let air circulate around the roots. Ask in your local garden centre if you need advice on the specific compost mix for the conifer(s) you’re looking to grow. Different types have different requirements, and it’s important to get this right. 3) Not Enough Space The reality is that conifers will do best when they’re grown in the ground. These are proud and hardy trees that can hold their own against the elements, and a life spent in a small pot isn’t really ideal. If you buy a potted conifer, consider planting it out into the ground after a year or so. This, combined with vigilant watering, should give it the best shot at thriving. If you’re wondering why this becomes problematic, think about the roots of the conifer. As the tree grows so too do its roots, and in a small pot they’re quickly going to run out of space. As the ratio of roots to soil changes, it gets exponentially harder for the conifer to get the nutrients it requires. Needles turning brown and dropping off is a desperate attempt by your plant to shepherd its resources but, unless you take action, this is unlikely to be enough to save it. 4) Choose The Right Spot If you do decide to move your conifer outside, try to find a sheltered spot that gets full sun or partial shade. Shelter is important because strong winds can scorch the plant, turning exposed needles brown and causing damage. 5) Make Sure There’s Drainage Wherever you grow your plant, make sure there’s suitable drainage to allow any water that’s not absorbed to seep out. In a pot this means drainage holes, and maybe even a layer of gravel between the bottom of the container and the soil. In the ground, this means suitable irrigation. You’ve probably noticed that we advise watering often and using a compost that can retain moisture, while also advising you to ensure there’s plenty of drainage for excess water. This is because with conifers, it’s notoriously tricky to get the right amount of water. While they’re hardy, they’re also fussy, and once things start to go south it can be hard to get them back on track. 6) Not Enough Nutrients Nutrition is crucial in keeping plants alive and well. We advise feeding your conifers in late winter, then mulching the top of the soil. “Make sure that the bottom of the pot is ridged or the pot is raised off the ground to let the holes actually drain,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. This will top up their nutrients and hopefully encourage stronger growth. You can buy special feeds for conifer plants, or they’ll respond well to 10-10-10 or 16-8-8 mixes. Applying feed once a year will be enough to keep these trees suitably nourished: resist the temptation to over-feed as this can disrupt their delicate balance. “In pots, feeding more regularly is important; nettle tea can be watered onto the compost every few weeks between spring and late summer,” Peter adds. 7) Don’t Prune Too Hard! Many gardeners get a little over-enthusiastic when pruning their conifers, out of a desire to keep them looking neat and trimmed. Unfortunately however, pruning too aggressively can shock the plant and cause damage. And because few conifers regrow from old wood, it can take a permanent toll, as Peter shares. “Most conifers do not have dormant buds, so pruning back past the green growth leaves no buds to re-sprout. Hence, the infamous dead patch in a conifer. “There is an exception – yew is particularly good at regenerating from a hard prune if carried out in summer. That’s one reason why I find yew, Taxus baccata, to be among the best conifers for hedging. “Pruning too early can cause new growth to get frosted and, you guessed it, turn brown.” When it’s time to prune, be gentle. Only take off a small amount, and do this only in April through August. It’s far preferable to take off too little then rectify later on with another gentle prune, rather than to hack off so much that you cause irreversible damage to the plant! Enjoying Your Evergreens With the right care it’s possible to avoid this fate Grown with the care and attention they require, conifers are beautiful and rewarding plants to have in your garden. They’re big, bold, and vibrant, holding their colour year-round and providing a reminder in the lean months that Mother Nature will hold court again shortly. While it can feel like a bit of a balancing act getting the conditions right for your fledgling conifer, once you get a feel for it and your plant begins to get established, you should find things easier. Just remember that they’re thirstier than you might expect, that good moisture retention and good drainage are both required, and the over-zealous pruning will cause way more harm than good. And whether you decide to keep a conifer in a small container on your desk, a large container on your patio, or encircled in your lawn, the steps in this guide should hopefully help you to keep it alive and well for a long time to come.
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Only Prune Maples 'If You Want To Form The Tree In A Precise Shape' Says This Expert
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Acer Trees? When To Prune Acers How To Prune Acers Formative Pruning Pruning For Size Restriction Pruning For Shape & Aesthetics Pruning For General Maintenance & Plant Health Pollarding & Coppicing With Acers large and small it is usually best to keep pruning to a minimum but there will be some times when pruning may be required or desired. Acers, both larger maples and small Japanese trees, often perform best when more or less left to their own devices. Pruning excessively can often weaken the trees, and is often unnecessary. However, there are certain occasions when pruning can be desirable. Read on to learn why you might wish to prune Acers, when and how to do so. Why Prune Acer Trees? Acer palmatum “Maples do not require pruning unless you want to form the tree in a precise shape,” says Agustin Coello-Vera from The Maple Society. Small Japanese maples are usually best when left to grow naturally, and pruning should generally be kept to a minimum. Larger maples may also be left largely to their own devices. However, there are certain reasons to prune and all Acers can be lightly pruned to achieve certain results. Acers might be pruned: Formatively – to form their initial pleasing shape during early stages of growth. To restrict their size. To maintain a pleasing and aesthetic shape and form. For general maintenance and to preserve the ongoing health of the trees. When To Prune Acers Acers of all types should almost always be pruned during the dormant period, between November and March. When pruned during the growing season, Acers can bleed sap from pruning cuts, which can weaken or damage the trees. However, while winter pruning is best, you should also generally avoid pruning when temperatures are below zero. “Small pruning can be done any time, but major pruning is best done from late summer to late winter before the sap starts to rise,” states Agustin. Pruning in winter after leaf fall also makes it easier for you to see the structure of your trees. The only exception to this is when maples such as field maples are being used as part of a hedgerow. For hedgerows, maples are sometimes pruned not only during the winter, but also in late spring and sometimes also in September to keep them neat and in check. How To Prune Acers Formative Pruning Larger maples are typically purchased as 2-3 year old trees. These will likely have already undergone a process of formative pruning to create well-shaped trees. Formative pruning is not something most gardeners will have to consider. However, if you are growing your maples from seed, or younger saplings or ‘maidens’ then some pruning may be required, largely on aesthetic grounds, to create a clear trunk and a well-spaced, nicely shaped canopy of branches. Pruning For Size Restriction Another reason to prune Acers is to restrict their size – slower-growing and small Japanese maples will not typically have to be pruned for this reason. They do not respond well to extensive pruning and should always be chosen for their height and spread. Field maple hedge Make sure you choose a Japanese maple which is suited to the position in which you wish it to grow. But larger maples may be pruned to make them more suitable for growth in a smaller garden. On rare occasions, you may wish to prune even smaller trees to reduce size and width. To do so: Simply trace longer branches back to a side branch and prune them out at this point. Young maple trees can be pruned in their first winter to create a short trunk and a more shrubby growth habit. Prune around 50cm high, just above two pairs of strong shoots. Shorten these shoots to around 1/3 of their length to encourage them to branch in the spring. The following winter, shorten the main shoots a little. To restrict the size of a mature large maple, it is also possible to carefully remove up to 1/3 of the canopy, though extensive renovation pruning is best undertaken over a number of years. With smaller Japanese maple you should never remove more than around 20% of the canopy, ideally a lot less – and should not take more than around a quarter of any one branch. Where Acers such as field maples are being grown as part of a hedgerow, you may prune both in the winter, and in the late spring, taking down the height and reducing the width as required. In certain cases, another pruning may be necessary in September to keep the hedgerow neat and tidy. Pruning For Shape & Aesthetics Japanese maples will usually be pleasantly shaped when purchased, and extensive pruning for shape and aesthetics will rarely be required. If your Acer creates a strong vertical shoot, however, which spoils the balance and appearance of the tree, you can prune this back to a side branch. A mountain maple bonsai in winter Some gardeners may also choose to prune Acers to achieve certain aesthetic effects – as in bonsai cultivation and other forms of decorative pruning or topiary. Work with the natural shape of the tree to create visually pleasing forms, removing or shortening certain branches as desired, but take care not to overdo it. As mentioned above, maples will often look best when allowed to grow in a more natural way. Pruning For General Maintenance & Plant Health If trees are growing naturally, and are not pruned for size, shape or aesthetics, then you will usually only stick to general, occasional maintenance pruning. This involves simply checking over your Acers carefully and cutting out any branches which are dead, damaged or diseased. You may also find tips damaged by cold weather which can be pruned off. Other than removing any damaged material, you should not need to do much Acer pruning at all. However, on mature maples, it may sometimes also be helpful to remove any branches which are crossing or overly congested to open up the centre of the canopy to improve the health of the tree. Whenever you are pruning Acers, you should always aim to avoid leaving stubs, since these can be prone to decay and die back. Always prune back to a well-spaced side branch wherever possible. Remember, pruning Acers should be kept to a minimum, and should almost always only be undertaken during the dormant period. Maples are a great low-maintenance option for your garden, and pruning them will not take up much of your time – if it takes up any time at all. Pollarding & Coppicing “Two other types of pruning you may see in Acers are pollarding and coppicing, although it would be unlikely in Japanese maples,” advises RHS Master of Horticulture Dan Ori. Pollarding and coppicing in the winter can be performed for a variety of reasons, explains Dan. “The traditional reason is timber production (in a garden setting this is normally for firewood). “Alternative reasons are [typically] because the tree is too big for the space and past the point where a crown reduction up to 30% would be enough, to create multiple stems from the base (coppicing) or a canopy at a desired height (pollarding), or to produce fresh new colourful stems or leaf every 1-3 years. because the tree is too big for the space and past the point where a crown reduction up to 30% would be enough, to create multiple stems from the base (coppicing) or a canopy at a desired height (pollarding), or to produce fresh new colourful stems or leaf every 1-3 years. “Cultivars of Acer pseudoplatanus and Acer negundo are commonly pollarded to produce fresh golden or variegated leaves.”
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Choosing 15 Clematis Varieties For Shade With The International Clematis Society
IN THIS GUIDE Spring Flowering 1) C. montana var grandiflora 2) C. montana var. rubens ‘Tetrarose’ 3) C. alpina ‘Pamela Jackman’ 4) C. alpina ‘Helsingborg’ 5) C. macropetala ‘Wesselton’ Early Summer Flowering 6) ‘Marie Boisselot’ 7) ‘Niobe’ 8) ‘The President’ 9) ‘General Sikorski’ 10) ‘Nelly Moser’ Summer and Autumn Flowering 11) ‘Jackmanii’ 12) ‘Gipsy Queen’ 13) ‘Perle d’Azur’ 14) ‘Comtesse de Bouchard’ 15) ‘Hagley Hybrid’ Clematis plants can be wonderful for bringing some light and brightness to a shady spot. It is a versatile genus of flowering plants, which offers options for almost any setting. “Clematis flowers are incredible, they give a real display and last a long time,” says Fiona Woolfenden, Secretary of the International Clematis Society. “Clematis are reliable if planted in the right conditions and come up every year and by picking certain varieties, you could have a clematis in flower every month of the year!” The shade-tolerating clematis climbers listed below will be great options for many shady spots, such as up against north-facing or east-facing walls or trellis fencing. “I like to grow Clematis up and through trees and hedges,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This takes advantage of the support offered by trees and hedges and provides a more naturalistic feel than growing up a trellis or pergola.” Spring Flowering Spring flowering clematis are prized for their beautiful, often delicate blooms which appear early in the season. Many which flower in spring are tolerant of a more shaded spot. Some options to consider are: 1) C. montana var grandiflora HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This is one of my own personal favourites. We have an extremely large and abundant plant of this type growing along a hedgerow at one side of the garden. It flowers prolifically, not just on the sunny south side of the hedge adjacent to the road, but also on the north side of the hedge facing the garden. The pristine white flowers emerge in late spring and early summer. It is a very vigorous climber which can quickly grow to brighten up a shady spot. 2) C. montana var. rubens ‘Tetrarose’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Another of the Montana group of clematis, ‘Tetrarose’ has beautiful flowers with mauvish-pink petals and light yellow stamens. With similar characteristics to the above, other than the flower colour, this can be another wonderful early season clematis to consider for a partially shaded spot. 3) C. alpina ‘Pamela Jackman’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT “Spring-flowering clematis comes mainly from a group known as atragenes, which grow in alpine areas, but not above the snow line,” explains Ken Black, from the plant nursery Ken Black Clematis. C. alpina begins the list of 3 plants from this group that can cope with some shade. The deep purple flowers, around 7cm wide, emerge from mid to late spring, and fluffy seed heads follow. This is a clematis which is even hardier than the two options mentioned above. It will survive across all of the UK, even in extreme winters. 4) C. alpina ‘Helsingborg’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This is another in the Atragene Group, and also has nodding bell-shaped flowers. “They are used to cold, windy conditions on the edge of forests or on screed slopes where the soil is well-drained,” says Ken, when discussing the properties of Atragene clematis. “Because of their hardiness, varieties bred from this group are ideal for UK gardens, as long as their native conditions can be somewhat replicated.” This particular cultivar has beautiful deep pinkish-purple flowers around 5cm long. Like the above, these appear in mid to late spring. 5) C. macropetala ‘Wesselton’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT A third selection from the Atragene Group clematis, ‘Wesselton’ is another early-season option that really stands out from the crowd. This also has nodding, bell-shaped flowers but the flowers on this clematis are unique. The outer petals are a beautiful violet shade, and a number of staminodes within the flower, blueish with white undertones at the base, give it a double appearance. What is more, these stunning flowers can be up to 10cm across. Ken Black notes that varieties from the Atragene group do not need much pruning but they can be cut back to your desired shape or height if required. Early Summer Flowering Late spring or early summer flowering clematis are also valuable flowering climbers for a somewhat shady spot. Ideally, place the roots in shade and allow the plant to climb up so its head is in the sun. Flowering can be disappointing in a very shady spot, but these cultivars tolerate and even look best in partial shade: 6) ‘Marie Boisselot’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN We have to admit a partiality for clematis with pure white flowers, which stand out really well against deep greens in a more shaded location. When it comes to summer flowering clematis for shade, our top pick is ‘Marie Boisselot’. The large, flat single flowers are a lovely pure white, with light yellow stamens. These blooms can be up to around 20cm in width. With a first and often second flowering, this clematis can be in flower from early summer right through to late summer or even early autumn. 7) ‘Niobe’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This is another early large-flowered clematis to consider for a shady spot. The large, star-shaped flowers of this cultivar are an unusual deep pinkish-red, with a hue that deepens as they age, and contrasts with their greenish-yellow stamens. They can be around 15cm across. 8) ‘The President’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / EARLY AUTUMN AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This cultivar also has large (up to 18cm in width) and dramatic flowers. In this case, the flowers have eight overlapping sepals with a violet almost shading to silver, and pink and red stamens. This cultivar like the above will flower in early summer, and often again in late summer or early autumn. 9) ‘General Sikorski’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER Another beautiful large-flowered clematis that can cope with shade, this cultivar also has large flowers up to 20cm or so across. This option stands out for its brilliant deep purple petals which have a tinge of red at the base. These deep petals contrast dramatically with vibrant and prominent yellow anthers. It is H4 hardy. 10) ‘Nelly Moser’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Perhaps one of the best-known clematis for a shady spot, ‘Nelly Moser’ is famed for its stunning 20cm wide flowers, which have eight distinctive petals, with pale pinkish mauve around the sides and darker pink stripes down the centre of each one. In fact, since the flower colour fades in strong sun, it can be best to grow this clematis in a more shaded position. Summer and Autumn Flowering Summer and autumn flowering clematis are fantastic for adding late-season colour in your garden. Here are just a few of the varieties from this varied group of climbers that will perform well in light or partial shade: 11) ‘Jackmanii’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Jackman’s clematis has been enchanting gardeners since it was developed, as one of the earliest clematis hybrids, in the 19th Century. This is a vigorous, medium-sized climber that will lose its leaves in the winter months, but look great all through summer. The flowers are around 10cm across, in a beautiful shade of violet-purple and a velvety appearance. When it comes to late-season clematis, this is one of our favourites that can cope with a moderately shady spot. 12) ‘Gipsy Queen’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT If you love purple flowers, then this cultivar is another great later season clematis to consider. The flowers are 12-14cm across, with velvety purple petals and reddish-brown stamens. This clematis flowers from midsummer to early autumn. 13) ‘Perle d’Azur’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This cultivar also has purplish flowers, around 10-12cm across, though these are of a lighter, more blueish-violet hue, with purple petal bases blushing a hint of pink on bars down the heart of each one, and yellowish stamens. It is known to bloom prolifically. 14) ‘Comtesse de Bouchard’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This late large-flowered clematis has charming rosy pink, somewhat striped flowers, with creamish-yellow stamens. It flowers from early to late summer and is another cultivar whose colour can fade in a sunnier spot and so which can look best in a little shade. 15) ‘Hagley Hybrid’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN The pretty pink flowers and pinkish-red anthers of this cultivar are also born in abundance on this late-season clematis. They open between midsummer and early autumn to bring an enchanting touch of delicate beauty to a shady spot. These are not the only plants to consider, but they are amongst the best choices for a shady spot. Remember, clematis will rarely flower well in seriously deep shade. But for a somewhat shaded location, the above options are all good ones to consider.
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Restrict Their Spread And Grow Bamboo In Pots To Manage Any Invasiveness
IN THIS GUIDE Bamboo Types For Pots Best Bamboo To Grow In Pots Where To Place Container Bamboo Choosing Containers Filling Containers Planting Bamboo Potted Bamboo Care Growing bamboo in pots can be a great option for small space gardens. There are a wide variety of bamboos that will grow very well in UK gardens. Sometimes, in fact, bamboos can grow so well that they can become invasive. Growing bamboo in pots can help restrict its spread, and also allow you to create a beautiful garden even if you don’t have any space to grow in the ground. Not only will you find it easy to find bamboos that will grow well in containers, you will also find this a very useful crop to grow: Bamboo can be a fairly low-maintenance option, which will not require a lot of your care and attention. Bamboos can work very well for screening and privacy, and can also provide you with a range of yields. Many bamboos provide edible shoots, and you can also harvest more mature bamboo canes for garden use – they can be used as plant supports and in a range of other ways. Bamboo Types For Pots If you have decided that you would like to grow bamboo in containers, then the first step is deciding which type of bamboo to grow. Bamboos are usually divided or categorised as running bamboos or clump-forming bamboos: Running bamboos spread through long underground rhizomes and can increase in spread very quickly. Clumping bamboos grow in dense clumps. These can also still spread rapidly in favourable conditions, but are generally the best choice for growing in containers. Clumping bamboos include Bambusa, Chusquea, Fargesia, Shibataea and Thamnocalamus. However, these are not the only bamboos that can work well in pots. A range of running bamboos can also work well in containers if properly managed. Within both of these types, bamboos can still be extremely varied, both in their vigour and in the eventual size to which they will grow. Some bamboos can easily grow to 5m or more in height, while dwarf varieties (also generally better for growing in pots) can be as small as 30cm or less in height. It is therefore important to consider how large your plant will grow. Best Bamboo To Grow In Pots Fargesia nitida While there are plenty of bamboo varieties that can be grown in pots, some that we recommend are: Chimonobambusa marmorea Fargesia angustissima F. nitida F. rufa Phyllostachys aureosulcata f. spectabilis P. humilis P. nigra Pleioblastus viridistriatus Pseudosasa japonica Thamnocalamus tessellatus Phyllostachys aureosulcata f. spectabilis Where To Place Container Bamboo Most bamboos will thrive in a sunny and sheltered location, however, it is worth noting that there are also bamboos that can cope with some shade, and which can be positioned in a less sunny spot. Bamboos can work well when positioned in individual large containers in a mixed container garden, and can work well within a Japanese inspired garden, or a tropical style garden scheme, for example. Bamboos with edible shoots might not be out of place in an edible container garden, or perhaps in a pot to the edge of a kitchen garden area. Bamboos in containers can also work well to define the edge of a garden area or ‘garden room’. A row of containers with bamboo plants in them can work well to create screening between different parts of your space. They can also be used to increase privacy on the edge of a seating area, perhaps, or along the edge of your property, or to screen unsightly elements within your space. There are plenty of ways to position bamboo in pots to create beautiful and useful effects in your garden. There are also a number of bamboo varieties that can even be grown indoors, as houseplants, so this is another option to consider. Some varieties which can be grown indoors are: Phyllostachys aurea Bambusa ventricosa Chimonobambusa marmorea Pleioblastus pygmaeus P. fortunei When you think about growing bamboo indoors, you might think of ‘lucky bamboo’ but this is technically not actually bamboo at all… Plant Them Up In Spring Ideally, it is best to plant bamboo in containers in the spring. Though you will be able to source and buy bamboo plants in pots throughout the year and can plant them up into their new containers at any time. Just try to avoid planting up on a particularly hot and dry day, or when conditions are particularly poor, as this will increase the transplantation stress on your new plants. Choosing Containers Typically, a container for a bamboo plant will need to be at least 50cm deep and 50cm wide, though a larger planter can also be considered and will mean that you need to repot your bamboo less frequently. The container or containers that you choose should allow for sufficient drainage, yet still enable you to keep the medium within sufficiently moist to suit the bamboo plants you are growing. Make sure there are sufficient drainage holes at the base of the container and consider raising the container on feet or a stand of some kind to make sure there are no waterlogging issues. Kerri Dall from Scottish Bamboo advises: “a raised bed style planter is ideal for bamboo, as the roots don’t grow very deep, but they will stay contained in a raised bed or planter”. With this in mind, especially with running bamboos, a sturdy container is essential. A sturdy wooden planter, for example, can withstand the roots in a way in which other containers cannot. Avoid plastic containers, and remember that for bamboos, glazed pots are generally better than terracotta. Filling Containers Bamboos require loamy soil that is slightly acidic or neutral in pH. Make sure that you choose a reasonably fertile potting mix that is moist, yet reasonably free-draining. To improve the drainage of the container, it can be a good idea to add a layer of horticultural sand to the base of the pot. Planting Bamboo When planting your bamboo plants into new containers or pots, make sure you position it so that it sits slightly lower than it was in its original pot. Place your plant, add your growing medium around the sides and a little on top of the previous surface, firming it gently in place. Water well, then mulch the surface of the container with a good quality compost to help with water retention. Potted Bamboo Care “I really like the versatility of bamboo grown in pots, as they can really add something to a variety of garden situations and styles,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They can provide height, volume, movement and screening and lend an exotic feel to the garden.” “They are low but not no maintenance, so be sure to water, feed, cut back and divide your bamboo when needed and it can be a resilient feature in your garden.” Watering Bamboo plants in pots will require more watering than those grown in the ground. However, they will not require a lot of time or care. Just check the growing medium with a finger twice a week during dry weather, and if the soil is dry a few centimetres below the surface then give your plant a good drink. Remember, bamboos generally dislike very waterlogged conditions. But they do need plenty of moisture throughout the growing season. Feeding Bamboos in containers should be fed each spring with a nitrogen-rich organic liquid feed (such as a nettle liquid feed, or manure tea, for example). A general liquid feed such as compost tea should be applied regularly throughout the rest of the growing season, and the organic mulch should be replenished each year. Pruning In the first year after planting, no pruning is required. However, in subsequent years, it is a good idea to remove any canes which are dead, damaged or weak, cutting them to the surface of the growing medium. If the clump has become congested, cut out some additional canes to let in more light and air to the centre of the plant. Potting On / Repotting Every few years, bamboo plants will need to be potted on into a larger container, or divided and repotted into several new pots. If you are dividing bamboo, this is best undertaken in the spring. Use younger rhizomes from around the edges of the clump to establish new plants.
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Here's How To Get Delicious Tomatoes From Seed In Just 7 Straight-Forward Steps
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choosing Tomato Seeds 2) Planning When To Sow 3) Germinating Your Seeds 4) Caring For Young Seedlings 5) Potting Up 6) Hardening Off Seedlings 7) Planting Out Growing tomatoes from seed is not too difficult a challenge, though there are certain considerations to bear in mind. “My favourite plant to grow from seed is probably tomatoes, as they are so easy to grow and so tasty,” shares Floral Artist Lora Avedian. In this article, we will talk you through the process of growing tomatoes from seed – from choosing your tomato seeds, to planting your tomato plants into their final growing positions. 1) Choosing Tomato Seeds First things first, if you want to grow tomatoes from seed, you will need to decide which tomatoes you would like to grow. The life cycle of a tomato plant You will need to choose a variety or varieties, and you will need to source your seeds. Remember, there are plenty of amazing heritage or heirloom tomato varieties to consider. And if you choose a heritage variety, you will potentially be able to save the seeds from your own tomato plants to sow next year. You can also sow the seeds from heritage tomato varieties that you have bought from a farm shop or farmers market. To prepare the seeds from a tomato fruit to plant, you will need to place the seeds into a jar of water. Mould will form on the seeds, which will remove the jelly-like coating from the seeds which stops them from germinating. Once this mould forms, after a few days, remove the seeds from the jar and wash them thoroughly. Then let them dry out and store them until you are ready to plant. Think about whether you would like to grow determinate or indeterminate types, and consider the growth habits of different options. Consider the length of time to harvest for particular varieties and the characteristics of their fruit and what they can be used for. Consider also how you would like to use the tomatoes you grow before you make your choices. 2) Planning When To Sow Plant your seeds early in the year Typically, a rule of thumb dictates that tomatoes should be sown indoors approximately 6-8 weeks before the last frost date where you live. Early sowing can be a good idea for short-season gardeners because when you sow early, you have the best chance of obtaining a good harvest of ripe tomatoes before the end of the year. For most of the UK, this is some time in February – however, you can also get started in March or April. If you are going to grow on your tomatoes in a polytunnel or greenhouse, you can get started even earlier, perhaps even in January in some areas, though February is generally best. If planting outdoors, March sowing indoors is usually recommended to obtain good yields by the end of the season. Tomatoes can be sown into seed trays, plugs, soil blocks or small pots…even toilet roll tubes. Remember that you can use a range of reclaimed materials and do not need to buy plastic pots for seed sowing. 3) Germinating Your Seeds To germinate successfully, tomato seeds need: The right temperatures (between 16-30°C). Sufficient moisture. Oxygen (an aerated growing medium). Getting the best germination rates possible is important. With tomatoes, germination rates can often be good, as long as the seeds are viable and the above environmental conditions have been met. Choosing the right growing medium is important to balance water and oxygen needs. Choose or make a suitable, light and moist yet free-draining seed starting potting mix for best results. “I use sieved, peat-free, multipurpose compost when sowing tomato seeds as they germinate easily and are not inhibited by high amounts of nitrogen in multipurpose, so there’s no need for special seed composts that have lower nitrogen levels,” explains Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. With earlier indoors sowing, meeting the needs of your plants can be more of a challenge. The main challenges are providing the right temperatures for successful germination, and the low light levels early in the year. You may wish to use a heated propagator if you find it a challenge to provide the right temperatures in your home. If you do not have a propagator, using a seed tray with a plastic tray or pots with plastic bags placed over the top can help. Place your seed trays or pots in as bright and light a place as possible – a south-facing windowsill is ideal. 4) Caring For Young Seedlings Young tomato seedlings should be kept moist, and at around 18°C. If you are starting early, LED grow lights can help you make sure that once seedlings emerge, they do not become weak and leggy due to a lack of light. Turning your pots or trays regularly, and perhaps using foil or mirrors to reflect light back onto your seedlings, can help to prevent them from leaning over towards the light. 5) Potting Up Once your tomato seedlings have developed two true leaves, these should be pricked out and potted up into pots that are at least 9cm across. When potting up, bury each seedling a little deeper than it was in its previous setting. This means that a length of the stem that was above the growing medium will now be beneath it. New roots should emerge from this newly buried length of stem, so the plant will develop a stronger and healthier root system which will get it off to a good start. Avoid any moisture or temperature shocks that could check the growth of your young plants. If roots begin to emerge from the base of the pots, and it is not yet time to plant the tomatoes into their final growing position, consider potting them up again into larger containers, since plants may flower prematurely or experience checks to their growth if they are too confined. 6) Hardening Off Seedlings A cold frame can help your plants acclimatise to the outdoors Around 2-3 weeks before it is time to plant your tomatoes into their final growing positions, (typically in around April or May) you need to harden them off. Hardening off tomato seedlings means gradually acclimatising them to outdoor growing conditions. If you have a greenhouse, place the tomato plants into this ‘halfway house’ for a couple of weeks, then move them into a cold frame, which can be gradually opened up more over the next week or so. If you do not have a greenhouse, move the plants into a cold frame or a sheltered spot for short periods of time, gradually increasing the length of time and amount of outdoors exposure. 7) Planting Out Raised beds can work well when planting out It is important not to plant out your tomato plants too early. Of course, you can plant out tomatoes earlier in a polytunnel or greenhouse than you can outdoors, but it is important to make sure that your young tomato plants are not exposed to frost or chilly conditions. This can cause a check in their growth, or even cause frost damage or kill your plants in extreme cases. Be sure to check the weather conditions and remember that garden timings can vary significantly from year to year. You can grow tomatoes in a range of settings – outdoors, in a typical vegetable plot or raised beds, in a greenhouse or polytunnel bed, or in a huge variety of containers or grow bags. When positioning your plants, be sure to think about the type or types of tomato you are growing, the conditions they require, and whether they need any support. It is best to get your supports in place (if required) before planting. When planting out your tomatoes, as with potting up, bury the plants a little deeper in the soil or growing medium to encourage strong root system formation.
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Horse Manure Is Best Used In The Garden Only After Being Composted - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Why Use Horse Manure Compost? Horse Manure Properties Sourcing Horse Manure Why It Must Be Composted Before Use How To Compost Horse Manure How & Where To Use It In The Garden References Using horse manure in your garden can help maintain fertility – but it is best used only after it is thoroughly composted. In this article, we will explore this mucky issue in a little more depth, including why you might wish to use horse manure compost in your garden. We will delve into the properties of this useful organic material and explore where you might source horse manure if you do not keep horses yourself. And whether or not you do keep horses yourself, we will run through how to compost horse manure so you can use it, and how and where to use it once you have. Read on to get one step closer to using horse manure to create a healthy organic garden. Why Use Horse Manure Compost? Like other manures, and other home compost, horse manure compost is an organic material that can help you take care of the soil in your garden and provide the plants you grow with the nutrients they need. Horse manure will improve the nutrient content of the soil, and improve its structure. It will help ameliorate drainage and compaction issues with heavy clay soils. Using horse manure compost in your garden will also improve the soil’s ability to retain moisture and can be especially useful to improve free-draining soils too. What is more, using organic material like horse manure can help you sequester carbon in the soil in your garden – so you will be doing your part in combatting our climate crisis. Horse Manure Properties If you are using manure in your garden, it is important to understand that different manures have different nutrient profiles and characteristics. They have different levels of NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) – the three key plant nutrients. Horse manure typically contains around the same amount of nitrogen as sheep manure. It typically has a little less nitrogen than rabbit manure and chicken manure, but a little more than cattle manure and more than a typical homemade compost. It does not contain as much phosphorus as other manures but does usually have more than material from your compost heap or bin. In terms of potassium, horse manure will typically compare favourably to other manures, though sheep manure will typically have a little more. The nutrient profile of horse manures can vary significantly, depending on the source, what horses are fed etc. However, NPK values for horse manure can typically be around 0.5% nitrogen, 0.3% phosphorus and 0.4% potassium – to give a general idea.1 Many gardeners consider horse manure to be the finest manure to use in a garden, especially fine when combined with straw bedding to create compost. However, it is worth noting that one downside to horse manure is that it does tend to be full of seeds. Which can increase the amount of weeding you have to do if it is not first composted correctly. Sourcing Horse Manure If you have your own horses, then of course you will already have horse manure on hand. If you do not, you might wonder where you can get your hands on some for your garden. You will usually be able to source horse manure compost from a reputable supplier online. You may also be able to make an arrangement to collect either composted horse manure or horse manure that you can compost yourself at home if you reach out to local equestrian centres, riding schools, stables, farms, or rural horse owners in your area. However, when sourcing horse manure, it is important to make sure that the horses were reared sustainably, and that the horse manure does not contain substances that may pose a risk to your health, or to the environment. This is especially important, of course, if you are growing food in your garden. Why It Must Be Composted Before Use Horse manure must be composted before use for a range of reasons. The first reason is that fresh manure of most types can bring pathogenic risks to you and other members of your household.2 Fresh manure can harbour bacteria which can be dangerous.3 The second reason is that fresh manure is usually too ‘hot’ to use directly around your plants. It is very high in nitrogen and while all plants need nitrogen (along with phosphorus, potassium and a range of micro-nutrients) to grow, too much nitrogen can scorch or even kill your plants.4 The only manure that can usually be used directly in the garden is rabbit manure.5 One additional reason to compost horse manure before use is that, as mentioned above, horse manure is typically full of weed seeds, which can germinate and cause excessive weed growth in your garden. Composting at sufficiently high temperatures can kill seeds and prevent this problem from occurring. How To Compost Horse Manure When you have your own horses, or source un-composted manure, you will need to compost it yourself before you use it. First things first, remember the standard rules for good composting: For composting, you need to create conditions for micro-organisms to thrive, with the right temperatures, good aeration, and enough moisture but not too much. You need to add materials in the right ratio – balancing out the nitrogen-rich materials (like the horse manure) with carbon-rich materials (woody material, straw, dried leaves etc.). Sometimes, the bedding used for the horses will serve well as the carbon-rich composting material. Utilising Hot Composting A hot composting system is recommended for composting horse manure. Cold composting will take longer (around a year) and pathogens and weed seeds in the horse manure may still not be dealt with as effectively. In a hot composting system, you will aim to achieve temperatures of at least between around 60 and 70°C inside the heap or bin over a sustained period of time. The carbon to nitrogen ratio is important: For best results, you should aim to add twice as much carbon-rich material as manure (by volume), or aim for a carbon-nitrogen ratio of around 25:1 (by weight), though this is just a rough rule of thumb. “I use a bag or two of horse manure a month to mix with vegetable waste,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Whether the bedding is saw dust or straw, this tends to provide a good ratio of carbon to nitrogen. “Without the addition of carbon from the bedding, the kitchen waste would tend to be too high in nitrogen relative to carbon.” Turn your compost to keep it sufficiently aerated and cover it during heavy rain to prevent excessive nutrient leaching. How Long Does It Take? Depending on a range of specifics, horse manure in a hot composting system can be ready to use in as little as a couple of months. How & Where To Use It In The Garden Horse manure compost can be used just as you would use any other composted material in your growing areas. Traditionally, gardeners dig well-rotted manure into their soil. However, we recommend taking a no-dig approach, which helps keep the soil ecosystem intact. In no-dig gardening, compost is not dug in, but is spread as a mulch over the surface of the soil. Simply add a layer of horse manure compost around your plants or across garden beds to prepare them in the early spring. It can also be done in autumn in preparation for a winter crop. Aim to create a layer around 5-8cm deep. Earthworms and micro-organisms will do the digging in for you, and over time, the organic material will be incorporated into the soil. You can also top-dress raised beds, planters and containers in the same way. You can also use horse manure compost, just like any other compost, to make a liquid plant feed for your organic garden. Simply add composted horse manure to some water, strain the mix, and use it to give a boost to leafy plants. References 1. The Poop on Manure. (2021, January 24). West Coast Seeds. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.westcoastseeds.com/blogs/wcs-academy/poop-manure 2. Pathogens and Organic Matter. (2017, April 14). UNL Water. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://water.unl.edu/article/animal-manure-management/pathogens-and-organic-matter 3. Zona-Mendola, C. (2020, August 3). Manure Meandering – Read This Before You Plant Your Veggies. The Lange Law Firm. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.makefoodsafe.com/manure-meandering-read-this-before-you-plant-your-veggies/ 4. Beecher, C. (2018, May 30). No quick or easy answers for using raw manure on food crops. Food Safety News. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.foodsafetynews.com/2018/05/no-quick-or-easy-answers-for-using-raw-manure-on-food-crops/ 5. Bunny honey: Using rabbit manure as a fertilizer. (2016, September 1). MSU Extension. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/bunny_honey_using_rabbit_manure_as_a_fertilizer
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Harvesting And Storing Onions - Keep Them In The Ground Until Maturity With These Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Onions Which Store Well How And When To Harvest Your Onions Curing Your Onions Where To Store Onions Preserving Onions Freezing Dehydrating Canning References Learning how to harvest and store onions in the right way is essential for home growers. Onions are a popular and useful garden crop, but it is important to make as much as you can of your onion yield. This involves making sure that you know how to harvest and store your onions correctly. You do not want to invest all the hard work involved in growing onions, only to waste those onions when it is time to take them from the ground. In this article, we will help you make sure that you correctly harvest and store the onions you grow. We will talk through a range of topics: from choosing the right onions in the first place, to preserving your crop for as long as possible. We’ll help you avoid waste and make the most of your homegrown produce. Choosing Onions Which Store Well First things first, it is important to remember that not all onions will store well. When choosing which onions to grow, you should always think about how you like to use them, and how long you would like them to remain in-store. Some onions might be grown and used up right away. While others can be stored to allow you to eat your own onions right through the winter months, and maybe even longer. In this article, we will focus on traditional bulbing onions. Spring onions or scallions are treated in different ways, and there are obviously also different considerations when it comes to perennial allium varieties. Bulb onions are generally either mild or pungent. This refers to their flavour. But whether an onion is mild or pungent can also give you a clue about how well they will store. If you are not sure which type you are growing, cut into them – if the onions make you cry when you cut them, they are high in sulphurous compounds.1 The compounds that make us cry also inhibit rot. So these are pungent onions and they will tend to store better, and can be stored for longer than mild onion types. Typically, the milder the onion, the more quickly they must be used. Set aside milder types to use up more quickly, and set your most pungent onions aside for traditional storage. How And When To Harvest Your Onions Another important thing to remember is that it is important to harvest onions at the right time, and in the right way. Even the most pungent onions will not store as well if they are harvested too early. Onions will store best if they are fully mature. However, leaving the harvest too late can also be a problem – if you leave onions in the ground too long they may be more likely to succumb to pests or diseases. To harvest healthy onions: Add potassium around June to help bulbs to mature. One bulbs have plumped up around midsummer, halt watering and feeding. Avoid fertilisation (especially nitrogen feeds) for the last 6 weeks of growth. Wait for stems to turn yellow and begin to flop over. As soon as at least 1/3 of your crop is yellowing and flopping, it is time to harvest. “One of the questions I get asked constantly is how long do onions take to grow?” says Dan Ori, Master Horticulturist. “The timing will vary by variety and growing conditions, but it is normally from 80 days for plants grown from sets and up to 170 days for plants grown from seed. “The best advice is to start checking from 80 days, when stems turn yellow and are fully bent over, you are good to harvest.” Onions will also store less well if they are damaged when you harvest. You need to harvest your onions carefully to make sure they are unblemished and in tip-top quality for storage. Ease your onions from the ground with a fork or other gardening implement, rather than trying to tug them out of the ground manually. Lay them down gently, and do not throw them around. As you harvest, check each onion over carefully. Brush the dirt gently off the bulbs, and look for any signs of damage or any other problems. Set any damaged bulbs aside to use up more quickly, since they will not store successfully for as long. Curing Your Onions To make sure you can traditionally store onions for as long as possible, there is another stage to go through before your harvested onions are ready to store. Curing your onions simply means removing moisture, and allowing the outer layers of skin and stem to dry out. The dry layers provide a protective barrier around your onion bulbs, helping to keep them fresher for a longer period of time. As the stem point dries out, this seals off the insides. Ideally, onions should be cured at 25-30°C. They should be placed somewhere that is warm and dry, with relatively good ventilation. You can hang up the onions, or place them on a rack or shelf. If you have a greenhouse or polytunnel, this can be a good place to put them to cure. A sunny porch or veranda can also be a good place. At the very least, keep them covered, and up and out of the dew, in a sunny spot. Leave your onions to cure until their necks have become taut, stems are dry, and the outer skins are papery and tight around the bulbs. Once your onions have cured, you can then think about moving them to a position suitable for storage. Where To Store Onions Onions should ideally be stored: In a location with temperatures between around 1-5°C and at least below 10°C. Where humidity can be kept between 55-65%. In a dark environment. Somewhere with some ventilation (but not too much). Ventilation is essential to avoid an increase in CO2 levels and to dissipate heat generated by the onions as they slowly continue to respire. However, too draughty a spot can cause onions to respire more and lose too much weight.2 Not too close to other produce such as apples or potatoes, for example. The ideal spot to store onions is in an old-fashioned root cellar or cold store/ pantry. Of course, we do not all have access to such a space – so if you do not have a root cellar or a pantry – then regular cellars, garages or sheds, or even a cool spare room in your home can also be fine. As well as thinking about the general environmental conditions for storing onions, you should also think about storage solutions. Storage solutions for onions that can work well include: Braiding. Hanging them in mesh bags or tights. Placing them in cardboard boxes. Putting them in wicker baskets. Braiding onions involves weaving the stems together just as you would braid hair. If you have difficulty doing this, or the stems are too short or too brittle then there is also another method to try: Make a loop of string or twine long enough to accommodate your onions, then take an onion and, at the base of the loop, wind it in and out between the two sides of the loop in a figure of eight pattern – then repeat until all your onions are attached to the twine or string. Preserving Onions If you do not have a suitable spot for traditional onion storage, there are a few other ways to preserve your onions so you can keep and use them over a longer period of time. These other methods can also be better for milder onions which will not last as long as the storage methods mentioned above. Freezing Your first option is to freeze some of your onions. This can be a good choice, especially, for milder onion types where you have some freezer space available. The best and easiest way to freeze your onions is simply to slice them. Then you can seal the un-blanched, raw, sliced pieces in jars or other freezer-proof containers. In order to prevent the frozen pieces from sticking together, and for easier retrieval, you can freeze pieces first on a tray. Once frozen, these pieces can then be transferred to containers. This makes things easier because you can tip out only as much you need for a meal without having to defrost all the onions. Of course, you can also cook up your onions and freeze them in a range of recipes to enjoy later in the year. “I prefer a milder onion,” says Dan. “I have found the variety ‘Ailsa Craig’ to be particularly reliable and to my taste. “I harvest all my ‘Ailsa Craig’ quickly when ready, dicing them up and placing them in the freeze in small bags as you can cook onions from frozen. “This means I enjoy my harvest all year!” Dehydrating If freezer space is limited, another traditional way to store onions is by dehydrating them. Drying onions is another good way to make sure they will last as long as possible. You can dry onions in an electric or solar dehydrator, or dry them in your oven on a low heat. Fully dehydrated onions can be kept in sealed jars, to use as needed. Or they can be powdered and turned into an onion powder, which can be very useful in your store cupboard. Canning Finally, one other way to store onions long term is to can them. Canning onion chutneys, onion jams and other preserves, for example, can be a great way to make sure you do not waste any of your onions, and can make use of your harvest over as long a period as you can. Just make sure that you follow a canning recipe from a trusted authority to make sure it is as safe as possible. References 1. Why does chopping an onion make you cry? (2019, November 29). The Library of Congress. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.loc.gov/everyday-mysteries/food-and-nutrition/item/why-does-chopping-an-onion-make-you-cry/ 2. Adamicki, F., & Kepka, A. (n.d.). Storage Of Onions In Controlled Atmospheres. International Society for Horticultural Science. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/38_5
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Container Grown Strawberries: Perfect For A Patio, Balcony, Or Sunny Windowsill
IN THIS GUIDE Why Grow Strawberries In Pots? Pot-Grown Varieties Choosing A Strawberry Container Filling Containers Sowing / Planting Strawberries Potted Strawberry Plant Care References Growing strawberries in pots can be a great choice for small space gardens. Strawberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow, and you can grow them in even the tiniest of spaces. You can grow them in small containers in your garden, on a patio, or balcony, or even on a sunny windowsill indoors. If you are new to growing your own, then growing strawberries in pots is one great way to get started. Why Grow Strawberries In Pots? Strawberries can be grown in a variety of different ways. You can place them in their own dedicated beds or strawberry patches. They can also work very well in polycultures alongside other perennial edibles such as perennial onions, perennial herbs, asparagus or rhubarb, given sufficient space. You can grow them as bed edging along pathways, around the edges of your beds, or at the front of garden borders. Strawberries can also be useful additions to fruit tree guilds and forest gardens, especially if woodland strawberries, Fragaria vesca, are chosen for their shade tolerance. . Growing strawberries in pots or containers of different types, however, can be an excellent way to make the most of your space. Whether you have only a tiny amount of space, or are trying to make the most of every inch in a larger space, this can be a good solution. When you grow strawberries in pots or other containers, this can also make it easier to keep your strawberries up off the ground. It can help make sure they are not nibbled by something else before you can harvest them, while making the harvest easier for you too, since the strawberries can be positioned within easy reach. Pot-Grown Varieties Once you have decided to grow strawberries in containers, you will of course have to decide which strawberries you would like to grow. There are several different types of strawberry ideal for pots: Garden Strawberries Fragaria x ananassa is the main strawberry type grown in gardens and in commercial cultivation. There are many named varieties to choose from. They all originate from hybrid crosses between the wild strawberry or Virginia strawberry – F. virginiana and F. chiloensis, which were developed in the 18th Century.1 These strawberries require a bright and light location, and will always fruit best in full sun. Woodland / Wild / Alpine In addition to typical garden strawberries, you can also consider Fragaria vesca (woodland or ‘wild’ strawberries). “Woodland strawberries are a little plant gem that can be used at the front of the border and produce small, edible fruits,” shares Anca Panait, a Garden Designer. “It comes as a surprise to a lot of clients that this plant is low maintenance and it also spreads, creating a green carpet.” These were the first strawberries to be cultivated around the 14th century.2 F. vesca ‘Semperflorens’ is one type of wild strawberry, sometimes called the alpine strawberry. It has small fruits but they are said to be even more delicious and sweeter than the garden types. Fragaria vesca One of the great things about woodland/wild/alpine strawberries is that they can be grown in more shaded conditions. They will fruit well even in light or dappled shade. June-Bearing, Ever-Bearing Or Day-Neutral When choosing strawberry varieties, you should note that there are several different categories to consider. Varieties are categorised according to their cropping characteristics. There are early, mid-season and later harvested varieties – and also ever-bearing and day-neutral options. The first three types are by far the most common. These will all bear their fruits over a relatively short period around June or July (depending on climate and conditions) and are categorised as ‘June-bearing’. F. x ananassa ‘Frisan’ Ever-bearing strawberries (a few F. x ananassa strawberries are of this type, as are woodland or alpine strawberries) are not really ever-bearing. But they do have a longer period of harvesting and can offer 2 or even 3 harvests per year. Day-neutral modern cultivars are far rarer, but these genuinely can fruit right through from June to autumn in mild-warm conditions. Their fruiting is not influenced by day length in the way that other cultivars are. Choosing A Strawberry Container Once you have decided which strawberries to grow, and know where your strawberry containers will be positioned, it is time to choose your containers. Growing strawberries in pots does not necessarily mean growing individual plants in individual plant pots. There are a number of different container options that you could choose. For example, you could consider: Larger planters, window boxes, grow bags or traditional terracotta pots for strawberries , perhaps alongside other companion plants. Traditional terracotta strawberry planters with holes in the side for planting. Stacking planters, which allow you to grow tiers of strawberries. Self-watering strawberry pots, which make watering easier. Vertical gardens (made from fabric with pockets for strawberries to be placed within, or made from old wood pallets, for example). Vertical gardens might also include those made from old guttering, or pots held onto a trellis in which strawberries can be grown. Or they may also simply be shelving on which pots for strawberries can be placed. Planting barrels (with strawberries planted in the top and in holes in the sides). Planting towers (made from a range of reclaimed materials – such as plastic drinks bottles, for example). Hanging baskets, or other hanging containers. Containers within a hydroponic or aquaponic system (growing strawberries in water rather than a more traditional growing medium). “The container I find best for growing strawberries in is a trough,” says Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. “This can be used as a window-box or raised on pot-feet on the ground. It is the right shape to let fruit dangle over the sides to bask in the sun away from damp soil and is almost offered to you for picking. “Their depth offers a good blend of water retention and drainage. I find 3 plants in a 60cm long trough work well.” Remember, there are a range of reclaimed items and materials that you can use to make places to grow these easy, unfussy and forgiving plants. Strawberries are quick growing and shallow-rooted so they can be grown in a huge range of different containers. Filling Containers Unless you are growing strawberries in a hydroponic or aquaponic system, once you have chosen your containers you will need to think about the growing medium. Strawberries need soil which is moist yet free-draining, and they need a fertile potting mix to grow and yield at their best. Make sure you create (or choose) a potting mix that will retain moisture and yet drain freely, to keep your strawberry plants happy and healthy. Commercially, a coir blend is often used, which meets these requirements. Sowing / Planting Strawberries Strawberries can be grown from seed. However, it is far more common, and much easier, to grow strawberries from runners or buy in young plants. Runners are small plants that branch off from existing ones and form new roots. These can be bought bare-root during the dormant period and are planted out early in autumn or early in spring. Bare-root runners are generally cheaper than pot-grown young plants. You can also buy runners which have been placed in cold store in late spring. These will typically fruit after a couple of months. Many gardeners, however, will opt to purchase young plug plants in pots. These are available from late spring into early summer and can be planted out or repotted as soon as you buy them. Potted Strawberry Plant Care Watering When you grow strawberries in pots or other containers, watering is a key consideration. When choosing your containers, you should remember that strawberries will need to be watered more frequently when grown in containers than they will when grown in the ground. You will need to think about watering and how easily you will be able to do so when working out which solution is best for your home growing efforts. Strawberries need reliable moisture throughout the growing season, though won’t like having waterlogged roots. Fertilising Like other fruiting plants, strawberries will benefit from the addition of a potassium-rich liquid plant feed during the growing season. Organic fertilisers which work well for tomatoes should work well for strawberries too. A potash rich liquid feed made from comfrey – comfrey tea – is one excellent organic solution. A liquid feed made from Chenopodium album (fat hen – which is said to be a good dynamic accumulator of potassium) can also be a good choice. Mulching Even in pots, it can be a good idea to mulch around your strawberries as the fruits begin to form. Use straw, untreated cardboard, dry leaves or other carbon-rich mulch material to keep the fruits up off the soil and to retain moisture in the containers where it is possible to do so. Runners If runners form on your strawberry plants while they are still fruiting, you may wish to cut these off in order to allow plants to focus on fruit production. Later, you may like to keep runners attached and peg down the new plants into new pots to increase your stock of strawberry plants. This way, you can easily propagate new plants for next year. Simply peg down the plants into the new pots, keeping them attached to the parent plant until new roots have formed. Then you can cut the runner and place your new pot wherever you wish to grow on. Protection From Pests If something is eating your strawberries before you get to them, you can consider creating some sort of physical barrier to protect your crop, or growing undercover. Placing red stones around your plants to ‘trick’ birds etc. may also help protect your fruits, though is unlikely to be 100% effective. Harvesting Most strawberries will be harvested when they are bright red all over. Keep checking regularly on your crop so you can harvest them as soon as they are ready. If possible, try to harvest on sunny days, during the warmest part of the day – since this is when the fruits will taste best. Eat, cook or preserve your fresh strawberries as soon as possible. They won’t store fresh all that well once ripened, but most gardeners will find that this is not usually a problem, since these delicious fruits are likely to be very popular in your household. References 1. Youssef, J. (2021, November 23). A Glimpse into the Cultural History of Fragaria. Folger Shakespeare Library. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/cultural-history-of-fragaria/ 2. Grubinger, V. (n.d.). History of the Strawberry. The University of Vermont. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/strawberryhistory.html
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