Growing
Permaculture Gardener's 4 Potato Storage Methods That Keep Them Fresh For Up To 12 Months
IN THIS GUIDE Only Store Good Quality Potatoes 1) Potato ‘Grave’ Or ‘Clamp’ 2) Pantry / Root Cellar 3) Pressure Canning 4) Freezing Potatoes References Potatoes are a staple crop for many gardeners, but how do you store potatoes so you can keep them and use them over the winter months? To store potatoes so they last for months, you need to make sure that you choose the right potato variety or varieties. Some potatoes will store well, others not as successfully. If you choose the right variety or varieties, you are far more likely to be able to store them over a longer period of time. Only Store Good Quality Potatoes Another important thing is quality control: once you harvest your maincrop potatoes, you should take a good look at each tuber to make sure you do not store any which are blemished or likely to rot in storage. Choose only whole, healthy tubers to store, so you do not introduce pests or disease, and so the potatoes you choose can last for as long as possible. Something to remember is that if you decide to store whole, uncooked potatoes for any length of time, in traditional storage, these should be cured before they are stored. This simply means leaving them for a certain length of time to dry out, and for the skins to thicken and harden up. Potatoes that have been cured will typically be better for storing for longer periods. Do not wash potatoes to be stored in a traditional way until you are ready to use them. 1) Potato ‘Grave’ Or ‘Clamp’ Many old-time gardeners and allotment holders keep their potatoes so they last for months by simply piling them into a hole in the ground, which is often insulated with straw or dried leaves and soil to keep it cool yet frost-free.1 To build a potato clamp: Dig a hole in the soil around 10-15cm deep, wide enough to accommodate the number of potatoes which are to be stored. Line the hole with straw or dried leaves and place the potatoes in a pyramid shape on top, with potatoes no more than 50cm or so above the ground. Place more straw or dried leaves over the top of the pile. Mound over the whole pile with soil at least 15cm or so deep, scooped from a spade depth trench around the clamp. Leave a hole at the top, to provide ventilation, plugging the gap with straw or dried leaves. This structure should keep potatoes edible throughout the winter months. However, the common problem is that pests like slugs or rodents may find the stash. 2) Pantry / Root Cellar Potatoes in a root cellar Another traditional way to store potatoes is, of course, in a pantry, or root cellar. This is by far the best option if you have a suitable space. Any cool and humid space can be ideal for potato storage, so if you do not have a dedicated root cellar or pantry then you can also consider storing potatoes in a garage, shed, or other cool, insulated yet unheated space. You should never store raw potatoes in the fridge, since the chilly temperatures will turn the starch into sugars and alter their taste and texture. The ideal temperatures for potato storage are between 7-10°C.2 The storage space should have reasonably good ventilation. You should always make sure that the potatoes are stored in a breathable container – such as cardboard boxes, baskets or crates – and not in plastic. You should also make sure that you keep potatoes away from onions, since keeping onions and potatoes in store together can cause both to go bad more quickly.3 Come spring, stored potatoes are likely to start to sprout, but if you store them in the right conditions then they should be good to eat right through the winter months. 3) Pressure Canning Pressure canner If you cannot store potatoes in the right conditions through the winter months, or wish to store potatoes you’ve grown earlier in the year, then you will likely have to cook your potatoes before storage to keep them for any length of time. One way to store potatoes so they last for months is to skin, boil and can them. You will however need to have some specialist equipment in order to do so. You will need a pressure canner and canning jars. A pressure canner is essential for canning low-acid vegetables which cannot be canned or bottled using a water bath canner. Potatoes can safely be pressure canned in chunks of around ½ inch, or small potatoes 1-2 inches in size can be canned whole. Boil chunks for 2 minutes, or whole potatoes for around 10. Add to the canning jars, leaving 1 inch headspace, and cover with a canning brine. Then process in the pressure canner. Process at 10lbs (weighted gauge) or 11 lbs (dial gauge) (below 1000 ft). Be sure to adjust pressure accordingly based on your altitude. Process pint jars for 35 minutes, and quart jars for 40 minutes. If you own a pressure canner, the good thing is that you can use this process to store potatoes for a much longer period of time. So this can be a good option to consider if you cannot store in a cool and humid location, or if you want to store potatoes beyond the end of the winter months. Home-pressure canned potatoes typically last 12-18 months when the proper procedure is followed and the canned potatoes are subsequently stored correctly.4 4) Freezing Potatoes Cooked potatoes (cooked in a range of different ways) can also be stored for around a year in your freezer. “I once tried a potato clamp only to find that I’d been feeding the local mouse population and I don’t have a cool, humid cellar,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “My preferred way to store excess is to par boil and freeze them, which produces an excellent and reliable result in my experience.” Raw potatoes should never be frozen because the high water content in raw potatoes means that they turn mushy when defrosted and their texture and taste are ruined. References 1. Jeffries, T. (n.d.). Potato clamps: Storing potatoes and other vegetables using a clamp. Mr Fothergills. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://blog.mr-fothergills.co.uk/potato-clamps-storing-potatoes-vegetables-using-clamp/ 2. Publications. (n.d.). University of Idaho Extension. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.uidaho.edu/extension/publications 3. Quirk, B. M. B. (2014, April 5). Keep Your Onions & Potatoes Separated And Other Tips For Storing Fruits & Vegetables. Consumer Reports. https://www.consumerreports.org/consumerist/keep-your-onions-garlic-separated-and-other-tips-for-storing-fruits-vegetables/ 4. Adamant, A. (2019, October 7). Canning Potatoes ~ How to Pressure Can Potatoes at Home. Practical Self Reliance. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://practicalselfreliance.com/canning-potatoes/
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20 Early Spring Flowering Plants Featuring Our April Visit To RHS Harlow Carr
IN THIS GUIDE Early Spring Flowering Shrubs 1) Sweet Box 2) Forsythia 3) Quince 4) Goat Willow 5) Alpine Heath 6) Hybrid Camellia Early Spring Flowering Bulbs 7) Snowdrop 8) Early Bulbous Iris 9) Early Crocuses 10) Hyacinth 11) Daffodil 12) Winter Aconite 13) Alpine Cyclamen 14) Wild Tulip 15) Starflower Early Spring Flowering Perennials 16) Hellebore 17) Primrose 18) Bleeding Hearts 19) Winter Pansies 20) Lily of the Valley References After a long dark winter, nothing brings more joy than the arrival of early spring flowers. From bulbs to perennials and shrubs, there are many plants that start to flower just as spring begins. Here in the UK, there is an early spring flowering plant for every garden. Before working through our list, check out some of Mollie Brown’s favourites from RHS Harlow Carr when she visited in early April 2024: Early Spring Flowering Shrubs It is often said that shrubs provide the backbone of our gardens, supplying the all-important height and structure. These shrubs will not only help provide this structure – but flower as the garden awakens in spring – bringing colour and scent with them: 1) Sweet Box BOTANICAL NAME: SARCOCOCCA HARDINESS RATING: H5 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; FULL OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: DECEMBER – MARCH Sarcococca, or ‘sweet box’ as it is often known, is a shrub that is thought to originate from China and is a part of the Buxaceae family. A shade-loving and evergreen plant, it is a great shrub for a tricky spot. Producing heavenly-scented white flowers from late winter through to early spring, Sarcococca confusa is a great variety. Growing to H2.5m x W1.5m it is perfect for the back of a border or a large container. The scent the flowers give off is incredible and it is best planted near a spot often walked past so they can be enjoyed, a shaded back door or porch is ideal. Requiring full or part shade and a sheltered site, they will grow in most moist and well-drained soils, but need protection from the harshest midday sun. Sarcococca confusa is a low-maintenance shrub requiring minimal pruning only to keep to size and shape, which can be carried out in early spring after flowering. 2) Forsythia BOTANICAL NAME: FORSYTHIA HARDINESS RATING: H5 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – APRIL Forsythia originally came from Asia and is now commonplace here in the UK and for good reason. An easy to grow shrub, it produces an abundance of yellow flowers in early spring, often in time for Easter, depending when it falls. A bright and vibrant shrub, it injects a great dose of colour and is often used in Easter floral displays. Forsythias are relatively unfussy and will tolerate most soils, as long as they are moist and well-drained. A hardy shrub, they can tolerate winter temperatures down to -15°C and will grow in either an exposed or sheltered site. Often large standalone shrubs, although recent introductions include some dwarf varieties, they can also be grown up a wall with training. For a large shrub, F. × intermedia ‘Lynwood Variety’ is a good choice growing to H2.5 x W2.5 over time. With an upright habit, its yellow ovate flowers begin to bloom in March as spring dawns. 3) Quince BOTANICAL NAME: CHAENOMELES HARDINESS RATING: H6 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – MAY Chaenomeles or ‘Japanese quince’ as it is commonly known, is a lovely shrub which flowers from March to May. Originating from Asia, they are available here with flower colours ranging from white and apricot to bright red. From the Rosaceae family, they are deciduous with their stems covered in thorns, which need care when handling. Producing small 5 petalled flowers in March and April, they are a valuable early source of nectar for pollinators. Being able to withstand temperatures down to -15°C they are reliably hardy and able to survive all but the harshest UK winter. Chaenomeles × superba ‘Pink Lady’ is a great example, with soft pink flowers on a small frame it will grow to only H1.5 x W1.5m and tolerate any soil. As with most chaenomeles, it is best grown in a sheltered spot in full sun or part shade. 4) Goat Willow BOTANICAL NAME: SALIX CAPREA HARDINESS RATING: H6 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – APRIL Goat Willow – also commonly known as ‘Pussy Willow’ or ‘Great Sallow’ – is commonly grown as a tree or shrub in the UK. It is well-known for its distinctive catkins and is a great option for low-maintenance gardens as it needs very little upkeep. “As well as being an attractive tree for spring for humans to enjoy, Salix caprea, Pussy Willow, is also a hugely important source of early nectar for bees when little else is yet in flower,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. 5) Alpine Heath BOTANICAL NAME: ERICA CARNEA HARDINESS RATING: H5 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – APRIL Winter flowering heather is great for bringing a splash of colour to the garden in winter and early-spring months when little else is in flower. Its distinctive pink blooms show on upright, needle-like foliage that is evergreen in our climate. It is tolerant of most conditions which makes it a great option for any garden. 6) Hybrid Camellia BOTANICAL NAME: Camellia × williamsii HARDINESS RATING: H5 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; FULL OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – MARCH C. x williamsii was the first Camellia hybrid, cultivated in 1923 by J.C. Williams in Cornwall.1 This crossing of C. saluenensis with C. japonica yields large pink flowers in late winter and early spring. They are incredibly tough and grow well in shade – making them ideal for a secluded corner of your garden. Early Spring Flowering Bulbs Bulbs can give a stunning succession of early colour and brighten up the garden whether in pots or the borders. From winter aconites and snowdrops early on, to daffodils and tulips flowering later in spring, they can provide colour for months on end. 7) Snowdrop BOTANICAL NAME: GALANTHUS HARDINESS RATING: H5 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – MARCH Galanthus or ‘snowdrops’ are such a welcome sight in any garden and indicate that spring is imminent. Often flowering in February and March they look stunning when planted in clumps or in drifts creating a white carpet. There is a huge range of snowdrops available with some varieties being sold for eye-watering prices. But don’t let this put you off. The common snowdrop, or Galanthus nivalis, grows to H15cm and is widely available and not expensive. Snowdrops are perennial and grow well in moist well-drained soil in part or dappled shade. Snowdrop bulbs are best planted ‘in the green’, essentially meaning that their foliage is still green and not turned yellow yet, in spring. The bulbs can be planted in autumn, but are less reliable to establish. They require little maintenance, and only need their foliage to be allowed to die back naturally to feed the bulb for the following year and larger clumps divided every few years. 8) Early Bulbous Iris BOTANICAL NAME: IRIS RETICULATA HARDINESS RATING: H7 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – MARCH For an early spring display of blue, purple and yellow, the dwarf Iris reticulata is hard to beat. Growing to only H15cm its colour certainly makes up for its short stature. A part of the Iridaceae family, Iris reticulata is a bulbous perennial that blooms in March. Perfectly suited to the front of a border or a terracotta pot, they are best grown in free-draining soil in full sun, or part shade. Widely available, they can be planted at twice their own depth in autumn to flower the following spring. Over time bulbs will multiply sometimes leading to overcrowding and poor blooms. This can be addressed by dividing the clumps in late summer and replanting. 9) Early Crocuses BOTANICAL NAME: CROCUS TOMMASINIANUS HARDINESS RATING: H6 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – APRIL Crocus is a plant that is probably most well-known for being an early bloomer in the British Isles. C. tommasinianus is the variety commonly grown for early spring flowers and its bulbs should be planted in autumn – usually between late September and early November. Plant in well-drained soil and full sun for the best results. 10) Hyacinth BOTANICAL NAME: HYACINTHUS HARDINESS RATING: H4 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: APRIL – MAY Available in a range of colours, hyacinth are one of the most popular types of bulbs to grow thanks to their attractive blooms and pleasant fragrance. In the autumn months, plant the bulbs at a depth of roughly 10cm and water well. Hyacinth prefer a sheltered spot (ideally in full sun) and soil that drains well. 11) Daffodil BOTANICAL NAME: NARCISSUS HARDINESS RATING: H6 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – MARCH Another plant that needs no introduction, daffodils are commonly listed among the most popular flowers grown in the United Kingdom.2 Their nodding, showy flowers tend to signal the onset of spring from February or March. They are fairly tolerant of most weather conditions and should be planted in September. Plant between a depth of 12-15cm in well-draining soil. 12) Winter Aconite BOTANICAL NAME: Eranthis hyemalis HARDINESS RATING: H6 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – FEBRUARY Winter aconite is a member of the buttercup family and is native to woodland habitats. Its bright yellow flowers usually unfurl in late winter, with blooms even earlier than crocuses. Once settled, the plant should come back each year and you will also find that it spreads easily. Its soil should be kept moist and the plant will need regular exposure to sunshine in order to flower. 13) Alpine Cyclamen BOTANICAL NAME: Cyclamen Alpinum HARDINESS RATING: H5 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – FEBRUARY Alpine Cyclamen is native to altitudinal areas of Central Europe, with pretty flowers that show in late winter and early springtime. The angular, propellor-like flowers are very distinctive and offer something a little different for any sheltered, partly shaded areas of the garden. 14) Wild Tulip BOTANICAL NAME: Tulipa sylvestris HARDINESS RATING: H6 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; FULL SUN FLOWERING MONTHS: APRIL – MAY Wild tulip bears bright yellow flowers which have a lemon, citrusy scent.3 It can commonly be found growing wild in its native environment of woodland or meadows, and should be placed in a sunny spot with plenty of shelter. 15) Starflower BOTANICAL NAME: Ipheion HARDINESS RATING: H5 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; FULL SUN FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – MAY Ipheion or ‘Starflowers’ are flowering bulbs that are native to South America. They have sweet-scented flowers that are commonly blue or white and usually begin flowering from March here in the UK. Use a loam-based compost and site in full sun for the best results. Early Spring Flowering Perennials 16) Hellebore BOTANICAL NAME: Helleborus HARDINESS RATING: H7 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – MARCH Hellebores are part of the ranunculaceae family with some of the most widely grown varieties including helleborus foetidus, helleborus niger and helleborus x hybridus. With flowers ranging in colour from white and cream to pink and purple, there is a colour to suit any garden scheme. Helleborus x hybridus or the Lenten rose is a semi-evergreen perennial and is arguably one of the easiest to grow. Flowering from February and March onwards, they are happiest in moist well-drained soil in part shade. With single or double flowers and growing to H.45 x W.45m, they do not like being transplanted and often happily self-seed, producing new plants which can be moved. For stunning pink and red speckled petals, H. × hybridus ‘Harvington Pink’ is a wonderful plant to brighten up the garden. 17) Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: PRIMULA HARDINESS RATING: H7 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – MAY Perhaps one of the most thought of spring flowers, especially in the wild, is the primrose or Primula vulgaris. A very hardy perennial, withstanding even the harshest winter. With the true wild form being a scented and pale yellow growing to H20cm, it flowers from late February until May and is found in hedgerows and woodlands throughout the UK. Thriving in most conditions, they are ideal for lining a path or filling a container to provide a cheering display. Despite their common name primrose, they are part of the Primulaceae family and are herbaceous or semi-evergreen. As an RHS plant for pollinators, P. vulgaris will provide a valuable source of nectar for bees. If left alone, P. vulgaris will self-seed and naturalise in the vicinity or can be divided up every 2-3 years in early autumn and replanted. 18) Bleeding Hearts BOTANICAL NAME: Lamprocapnos spectabilis HARDINESS RATING: H6 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – JUNE Lamprocapnos spectabilis or, as it was previously named, Dicentra spectablilis, is much more commonly known as ‘bleeding heart’. From the Papaveraceae family, Lamprocapnos are herbaceous perennials that are adorned with pink, red or white heart-shaped flowers dangling down from arching stems. With flowers appearing from March until June, they are a great early spring plant to add colour to the garden. Requiring a sheltered spot in partial shade, they grow well in most fertile soils, except acidic. A hardy perennial, originating from China, they will tolerate winter temperatures down to around -15°C and grow to typically H1m x W1m. L. spectabilis do not like being transplanted. For a vibrant red display of flowers L. spectabilis ‘Valentine’ is incredible. Growing to H.8m x W.8m its scarlet red flowers with white tips will brighten up any border or container. 19) Winter Pansies BOTANICAL NAME: Viola hiemalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 BEST SITED: EXPOSED OR SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: DEPENDENT ON PLANTING Winter pansies are incredibly hardy and can flower even in the darkest winter months when there is little sun. Rated H7, they are incredibly hardy plants that can survive frosts, snow and pretty much anything a typical British winter could throw at them. Planting them in autumn (ideally September) should give them enough time to bed in before the harsh winter period, when they should flower all the way until spring. 20) Lily of the Valley BOTANICAL NAME: Convallaria majalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 BEST SITED: SHELTERED; FULL OR PART SHADE FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – APRIL Lily of the Valley is a woodland flowering, herbaceous perennial that is ideal as a groundcover plant. Its small white flowers with their bell-shaped appearance should appear in March or April for a springtime garden treat. They can be grown in almost any soil type and do well in dappled shade – perhaps under the canopy of a tree or in a shaded garden corner. The rooted crowns of the plant should be planted out when weather conditions are dry and moderate – spring or early autumn are both ideal months. References 1. History of the x williamsii Camellia. (2021, March 5). Caerhays Estate. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://visit.caerhays.co.uk/the-estate/the-gardens/history-of-the-x-williamsii-camellia/ 2. Popular Plants. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/popular 3. Tulipa sylvestris (15) | wild tulip. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/18545/tulipa-sylvestris-(15)/details
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Experts Reveal How To Force Rhubarb For An Early Crop (Make It Grow Faster And Earlier)
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Forcing? How To Force Rhubarb 1) Prepare The Area 2) Add Some Compost 3) Cover Your Rhubarb Plants What Else Do You Need To Know? Depending on the circles you move in, rhubarb can be a criminally unsung crop. This vivacious vegetable (yes, it’s a vegetable!) grows big and proud, its characteristic pink-red stalks erupting out of the ground and into the sky. When picked and trimmed of its leaves, the stalks are delicious and versatile. Never a dull moment with rhubarb One thing that makes rhubarb a popular crop for those of us in the know, is how easy it is to grow. Rhubarb needs little care or attention, evidenced by how often you’ll find it in the wild if you know where to look. It grows well in warm and dark conditions, and has a long harvesting season that can start in winter if you know how – great for incorporating into your growing calendar to ensure you’ve got something ready to harvest for as much of the year as possible. In this article we’ll teach you how to force rhubarb: a technique that brings the start of the harvesting season forward slightly. This should be of interest whether you’re a long-time fan or a complete amateur. What Is Forcing? Put simply, forcing is a way to make rhubarb grow faster and earlier in the year than usual. Forcing is basically tricking the plant into thinking it’s spring, encouraging it to grow more quickly towards what it thinks is the warm springtime sun. This is achieved by simulating warmer growing conditions during winter, and it’s surprisingly easy to do. How To Force Rhubarb There are only a few steps to forcing rhubarb, none of which are difficult. 1) Prepare The Area First up you’ll want to clear the area at the base of a fledgling rhubarb plant. This means removing weeds, old leaves, and any garden detritus that may have gathered around. 2) Add Some Compost Next you need to spread a little compost around the rhubarb, taking care that it doesn’t actually touch the stalks. Doing so can burn the crop and hinder its ability to grow. Just put it in a ring a couple of centimetres away from the plant. 3) Cover Your Rhubarb Plants This is the crucial step: you’re going to cover your rhubarb with a pot, trug, bucket, or similar container. Choose something opaque to block out all-natural light, and ideally with only one hole to allow airflow. Terracotta pots make for great forcing If your covering is made of a light material that may get blown away in strong winds, make sure to weigh it down with a brick or something similar. Plastic plant pots and buckets will definitely require weighing down to prevent them from being blown around your garden once the wind picks up. How Long Does Forcing Take? It takes anywhere over three weeks to force rhubarb. When you check under the containers you’ll see thick pink stems, and these are ready to pick when they’re upwards of about 18cm. The longer you leave your rhubarb the bigger it will get, although check in occasionally to make sure things aren’t getting too cramped. Depending on how many rhubarb plants you have and the weight of the container, you may even see the stalks lifting the container off of the ground! As we said earlier: rhubarb is very enthusiastic. Remove The Leaves Before you do anything with your rhubarb, remove and dispose of the green leaves. What Else Do You Need To Know? Now we’ve introduced the technique for forcing rhubarb (we told you it was easy!), here are a few things that should help you to see better results. Number one: where possible, only force established rhubarb plants as the process is quite intensive, and younger plants can take longer to recover. Once you’ve forced a rhubarb plant and harvested the resulting crop, don’t harvest again from the same plant for the rest of that year, even if it grows decent-looking stalks. You need to give the plant time to rest to put it in best stead for a strong and healthy harvest in subsequent years. Follow these steps to keep your rhubarb crop in good condition Don’t worry about running out of rhubarb early if you force your crop though: it’s easy to stagger things to give yourself multiple harvests. To do this, just leave some plants uncovered to grow at their natural pace. Your forced crop will be ready within a few weeks of being covered, and you can harvest the remainder as and when it starts to look ready. For a plant with a long harvest season, sometimes up until late August, this gives you a lot of flexibility. You can also split rhubarb to give yourself a greater number of plants to grow. Once you start experimenting with rhubarb – both in terms of growing techniques and recipes for your harvest – we’re sure you’ll grow to love it.
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RHS Master Horticulturist Reveals 30 Plants He Recommends For Waterlogged Soil
IN THIS GUIDE How To Tell If You Have Wet Soil 1) Japanese Water Iris ‘Rose Queen’ 2) Arum Lily 3) Goat’s Beard 4) Largest Masterwort 5) Slipperwort 6) Lily Of The Valley 7) Chinese Astilbe 8) Pickerel Weed 9) Canna Lily 10) Slender Club Rush 11) Bulley’s Primrose 12) Forget-Me-Not 13) Bleeding Heart 14) Autumn Ox-Eye 15) Rodgersia ‘Elegans’ 16) Pitcher Plant 17) Scarlet Monkey Flower 18) Leopard Plant ‘Gregynog Gold’ 19) Tibetan Cowslip 20) Sycamore 21) Black Alder 22) Siberian Dogwood 23) Cohosh Bugbane 24) Globeflower ‘Orange Princess’ 25) Creeping Spearwort 26) Bowles’s Golden Sedge 27) Lady Of The Meadow 28) London Plane 29) Riverside Windflower 30) Japanese Primrose ‘Apple Blossom’ Waterlogged Gardens Need Love Too For nearly every plant you’ll see instructions like “ensure soil is moist but well-drained” or “this plant requires good drainage.” And it figures: the roots of most plants don’t thrive in overly wet conditions. They get damp and soggy, and this is a breeding ground for all sorts of problems. Left in this condition too long and the roots begin to rot; leave this unchecked for too long and the whole plant can die off. Rot can kill a plant But what if you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain? Or if part of your garden is prone to puddles and pooled water? Should you just abandon hope and give up your dreams of a vibrant garden? We’re pleased to tell you that the answer to this question is a firm “no!” There are plenty of plants that will do well in wet soils. “Finding waterlogged soil on a new site or somewhere with few plants, is not unusual,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Introducing a few of the larger plants from this list will help start the process of mopping up moisture.” We’ve rounded up thirty options that you can grow in your waterlogged garden without fear of damaging or killing them off. How To Tell If You Have Wet Soil The first step we recommend is to check whether you actually have wet or waterlogged soil. For new gardeners who aren’t familiar with what different soil types feel like, this step is a great way to ensure you choose plants that are suitable for your garden. Thankfully this test is simple, although you will need to do a bit of digging. Here’s how to do it – Dig a hole to 60cm deep. Leave it for 24 hours, taking care to cover it over to prevent any rain getting in Check to see whether water has pooled in the bottom at the end of this period If water has pooled you have a high water table, meaning soil conditions will always be wet. If no water is pooled you can do another test to check your drainage: simply fill the hole with water and leave another 24 hours, taking care again to cover the hole. If you’ve still got water in the hole at the end, drainage is poor. Equipped with this knowledge you can choose the right plants for your garden. Now you know how to check your soil, here are thirty plants well suited to growth in wet or poorly drained conditions. 1) Japanese Water Iris ‘Rose Queen’ BOTANICAL NAME: Iris ensata ‘Rose Queen’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: ACIDIC; LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY except north-facing RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This iris has delicate pink-white petals that get gradually darker approaching the centre, before a bold yellow streak. The distinctive petal shape and formation is a pleasure to behold, and this plant is a great first choice for any wet garden. Ideal growing conditions for this iris are full sun or partial shade, in any aspect except north-facing. Loamy, poorly drained soil is preferred (as you’d expect in this article!) and the plant is very hardy – suited to all but the most unusually severe British winter. Take care when handling this plant as ingesting it may cause discomfort: it’s advised to wear gloves and wash your hands to minimise the risk of this happening. 2) Arum Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Zantedeschia aethiopica PLANT TYPE: AQUATIC PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED, south-facing The arum lily is also known as the altar, calla, trumpet, Egyptian, or African lily. Or, if you want to be really formal, Zantedeschia aethiopica. Whatever you want to call it though, the characteristic swirling white petal with its yellow interior is a beautiful addition to any garden. In clay or loam soil with poor drainage, this flower will thrive. Choose a spot that also has full sun or partial shade, and a west- or south-facing aspect. As with the iris we recommend gloves when handling this plant. 3) Goat’s Beard BOTANICAL NAME: Aruncus dioicus PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY except north-facing RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Sometimes you find a plant whose name and appearance align perfectly. For us, the wispy white fronds at the end of each green stalk looks exactly like the wispy white whiskers on your average farmyard goat. So if that’s an aesthetic you’re going for, you’re in luck. And if not, this plant has enough to offer visually that you’re in luck anyway. Goat’s beard likes poorly drained clay or loam, and needs full or partial sun. Avoid a north-facing aspect. You don’t need to worry about wearing gloves while handling this hardy plant, as there’s no risk of discomfort or irritation from handling it. 4) Largest Masterwort BOTANICAL NAME: Astrantia maxima PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY (INCLUDING partial SHADE) RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT From afar each clump of small pink flowers looks like a flower of its own, making this plant rewarding for the curious observer. We also like this one for its wild, rustic appeal. It’s a plant that doesn’t have much deliberate cultivation behind it, but which has held its own and persevered for generations. The name evokes old-timey English gardens, and incorporating masterwort into your waterlogged floral display will add a streak of undeniable character. Not fussy in terms of sunlight, exposure, or soil type, this plant shouldn’t be too much trouble to grow. It can even tolerate moist but well-drained soil, making it a good option for an area of your garden prone to be changeable. “If your soil does regularly get thoroughly waterlogged, consider digging in some bulky organic material, such as fine wood chippings, to help the soil drain a little,” says Peter. 5) Slipperwort BOTANICAL NAME: Calceolaria integrifolia PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H2 PREFERRED SOIL: ACIDIC PREFERRED ASPECT: Full sun or partial shade RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Here’s another name that brings to mind bygone days, in cottage gardens tucked far away from the hustle and bustle of the 21st century. This small and bushy shrub boasts rich green leaves and a dazzling bouquet of yellow flowers. Although it’s an evergreen this plant only has a hardiness rating of H2 meaning it will struggle in winter. Expect a short summer bloom, though, and you won’t be disappointed. Some drainage will be needed to achieve a good growing season from this plant. Choose somewhere with full sun or partial shade, in a south- or east-facing aspect and avoid chalky soil. 6) Lily Of The Valley BOTANICAL NAME: Convallaria majalis PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This is a very famous plant, and for good reason. You may see it referred to by a range of names including May lily, mugget, mayflower, lady’s tears and more. This is testament to widespread appreciation and an indication that the plant was popular enough to be named in many regions. The white bonnet-shaped flowers are delicate and gentle, and will stand out against other bold flowers thanks to their unusual appearance. Lily of the valley will look great either on its own or as part of a display with other plants in this list. To grow, find a spot in full or partial shade, facing any direction except south. Look for clay or loam soil, and ensure good levels of moisture, without prolonged waterlogging. 7) Chinese Astilbe BOTANICAL NAME: Astilbe chinensis PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE If you like wispy fronds like the goat’s beard, then the Chinese astilbe is another good choice for your garden. This plant has striking light pink fronds that stand proudly above the ground, making this plant great for the back rows of wet ground floral displays. The astilbe will do best in poorly drained loamy soil, in a location with full sun or partial shade. Avoid a north-facing aspect if possible. Find the right spot and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning pink bloom in summer. 8) Pickerel Weed BOTANICAL NAME: Pontederia cordata PLANT TYPE: AQUATIC PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Fear not: though this plant has weed in the name, it’s not going to overrun your garden and cause you problems! In fact, pickerelweed – full name Pontederia cordata – is perfectly suited to marginal aquatic conditions (read: it likes growing at the edge of water). To the untrained eye the purple-blue frond-like flowers at the end of each stalk look a little like lavender, but the overall aesthetic of this plant is very different. Combined with the pinks and whites and purples in this list, a little bit of blue in your garden’s palette will pack a lot of punch. Look for a spot in clay or loam soil near the edge of water. This plant thrives in full sunlight, and will do best in a south- or west-facing exposure. 9) Canna Lily BOTANICAL NAME: CANNA PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: TYPICALLY H3 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT for many cultivars 10) Slender Club Rush BOTANICAL NAME: Isolepis cernua PLANT TYPE: ORNAMENTAL GRASS HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: BOGGY PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY 11) Bulley’s Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: Primula bulleyana PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: SLIGHTLY ACIDIC; LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 12) Forget-Me-Not BOTANICAL NAME: Myosotis SCORPIOIDES PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE 13) Bleeding Heart BOTANICAL NAME: Lamprocapnos spectabilis PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: ALKALINE PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 14) Autumn Ox-Eye BOTANICAL NAME: Leucanthemella serotina PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: full sun or partial shade RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 15) Rodgersia ‘Elegans’ BOTANICAL NAME: Rodgersia pinnata ‘Elegans’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 16) Pitcher Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Sarracenia leucophylla PLANT TYPE: CARNIVOROUS HARDINESS RATING: H3 PREFERRED SOIL: ACIDIC PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT FOR CULTIVAR ‘SCHNELL’S GHOST’ 17) Scarlet Monkey Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Mimulus cardinalis PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL / PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 18) Leopard Plant ‘Gregynog Gold’ BOTANICAL NAME: Ligularia ‘Gregynog Gold’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 19) Tibetan Cowslip BOTANICAL NAME: Primula florindae PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: SLIGHTLY ACIDIC; LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 20) Sycamore BOTANICAL NAME: Acer pseudoplatanus PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY 21) Black Alder BOTANICAL NAME: Alnus glutinosa PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN 22) Siberian Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: SLIGHTLY ACIDIC PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 23) Cohosh Bugbane BOTANICAL NAME: Actaea racemosa PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 24) Globeflower ‘Orange Princess’ BOTANICAL NAME: Trollius × cultorum ‘Orange Princess’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: full sun or partial shade RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 25) Creeping Spearwort BOTANICAL NAME: Ranunculus flammula PLANT TYPE: AQUATIC PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: south facing in full sun 26) Bowles’s Golden Sedge BOTANICAL NAME: Carex ELATA ‘AUREA’ PLANT TYPE: AQUATIC PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 27) Lady Of The Meadow BOTANICAL NAME: Filipendula ulmaria PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY 28) London Plane BOTANICAL NAME: Platanus × hispanica PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: ANY PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 29) Riverside Windflower BOTANICAL NAME: Anemone rivularis PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED SOIL: CLAY / LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: full sun or partial shade 30) Japanese Primrose ‘Apple Blossom’ BOTANICAL NAME: Primula japonica ‘Apple Blossom’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED SOIL: ACIDIC; LOAM PREFERRED ASPECT: full sun, SHELTERED Waterlogged Gardens Need Love Too Hopefully after reading this list you feel renewed hope that your wet and waterlogged garden can be made to thrive. While these aren’t the plants you’ll see on most lists of best plants for British gardens, each one has a distinct aesthetic and stands ready to make a stunning visual contribution to your garden. We looked for a selection of shapes and sizes to give you a few options, but remember this list is far from exhaustive. “Whatever you plant, their roots will carve channels into the soil, breaking up large clumps, and the plants above will cast a rain shadow and drop leaves, all of which helps the soil cope with moisture better,” Peter concludes. There are hundreds of plants that will do well in soggy soil, and if you keep hunting, we’re sure you’ll find the perfect combination to set your garden popping.
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Gardeners List 72 Special Ericaceous Plants That Love Acidic Soil
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Have Acidic Soil? Home Testing Acidic Soil Benefits Plants For Acidic Ericaceous Soil Trees Shrubs Edible Plants Flowers Grasses Ferns Acidic soil is sometimes seen as an impediment, but it can also be seen as an opportunity to grow plants that love acidic ericaceous soil. Rather than trying to amend your garden to fit the plants you like, it is almost always the best policy to choose plants that suit the conditions in your garden. That means that if you have acidic soil, you choose plants that love acidic, ericaceous soil – or at least plants that will tolerate those conditions. “There are true ericaceous plants that will only grow in acidic conditions, such as Erica, Rhododendron and Camellia, and plants that can grow in acidic conditions but can also grow in neutral or alkaline conditions,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Using the latter category of plants can really extend your options if your garden has acidic soil.” In this article, you will find a list of some plants that will work well if you have acidic soil in your garden. In any garden, the soil pH will either be acidic, neutral or alkaline. If the pH is much below 7, your soil is acidic and the plants listed below could all be an excellent choice. If your soil has a pH below 5, it is extremely acidic and some remediation might be required. Do You Have Acidic Soil? First things first, work out whether you actually do have acidic soil in your garden. The easiest way to check is with a pH test; these are fairly affordable to buy online. The pH may vary even from one part of your garden to another, so to get more reliable results you should take readings from more than one spot. Home Testing You can also do a simple home test to see if your soil is acidic – this will not tell you your soil pH level, but could give you more of a clue about conditions in your garden. Simply mix some soil with water to make a muddy mix, then add bicarbonate of soda. If the baking soda froths up, this dictates that the soil is acidic. If instead, the soil mix reacts when vinegar is added then it is alkaline. Another way to get some clues about the soil in your garden is to simply look around. The plants already growing in your garden and your neighbour’s gardens could help you work out which plants will thrive and what soil conditions are like. Acidic Soil Benefits If you do have acidic soil, especially soil that is mildly acidic, then this is wonderful. Extremely acidic soil can be a problem, because most plant nutrients will be washed away more easily. Phosphates will be less available to plants. And when acidity is even more extreme, bacteria cannot rot organic matter and there are far fewer nutrients available to plants. But mildly acidic soil is beneficial and in fact, a slightly acidic soil might be close to 6.5, which is said to be the very best pH for gardens. Plants For Acidic Ericaceous Soil But with acidic soil, which plants should you choose? Here are some lists that might help you to begin to find the right plants for your garden: Trees First of all, when planning a garden, one of the things that you should think about is trees. There are trees which will suit even the smallest of gardens. Here are some trees which like or at least can easily tolerate acidic soil conditions: Alder Acers Beech Cedar Dogwood Douglas Fir Magnolias Pin oak Rowan Willows Shrubs Once you have any trees in place, you should next move on to consider the shrub layer. Shrubs can be the backbone of a garden – providing height and structure in beds and borders, and filling in the gaps between the height of any tree canopy and herbaceous and ground cover planting. Shrubs are often wonderful for a low maintenance garden – especially if you choose the right ones for your soil type and conditions. To help you plan your shrubberies and borders, here are some of the shrubs that like acidic soil conditions: Azaleas Berberis Camellias Crinodendron hookerianum Fothergillas Gardenias Heathers Holly Hydrangea Lithodora diffusa Pieris japonica Rhododendrons Edible Plants The shrub layer in a garden can also be very productive. In an acidic soil garden, there are a number of fruiting shrubs and fruiting canes/brambles which can be good choices. Here are some to consider for a garden with acidic soil: Bilberries/Blaeberries Blueberries Cranberry Cowberry Gaultheria humifusa (Alpine Wintergreen) Blackberry Raspberry If you would like to grow vegetables in the ground in acidic soil, then it is also worth noting that unless the acidity is particularly extreme, potatoes are likely to be one of the best-performing crops for you. You may not do quite as well with Brassicas, these members of the cabbage family will do best in slightly alkaline conditions. Flowers To beautify your garden and bring in the wildlife, you will also, of course, wish to include plenty of flowering plants. Here are some excellent options for acidic soil conditions: Andromeda polifolia Begonia Caladium Irises Japanese anemones Kirengeshoma palmata Lewisia x cotyledon Lilyturf (Liriope muscari) Meconopsis cambrica Trillium erectum If you want to establish a wildflower meadow in acidic soil conditions, some wildflowers that are tolerant of acidic conditions include: Autumn Hawkbit Black Knapweed ‘Devils Bit’ Scabious Foxglove Heath Bedstraw Meadow Buttercup Musk Mallow Oxeye Daisy Ribwort Plantain Self Heal Sorrel Vipers Bugloss White Campion Wild Carrot Wood Avens Yarrow Grasses If you want to choose ornamental grasses for your garden then you should have no trouble finding grasses that work well in the soil where you live. Phormium (New Zealand Flax) is something that should thrive in your soil. Many other grasses (either for ornament, or as a lawn) will also cope with acidic soil conditions. If you want a grass mix for acidic soil (perhaps to be grown along with the flowers mentioned above) then here is a mix for acidic soil gardens: Agrostis capillaris Anthoxanthum odoratum Cynosurus cristatus Deschampsia flexuosa Festuca rubra ssp. litoralis Poa pratensis (Try 35% Festuca trachyphylla with lower proportions of all the other grasses.) Ferns If there is a shady spot to fill in your acidic soil garden, then you should also consider adding some ferns. Great ferns for acidic soil conditions include: Blechnum spicant Cryptogramma crispa Blechnum chilense Blechnum penna-marina Woodwardia virginica Acidic soil is also tolerated by: Athyrium filix-femina Dryopteris species Gymnocarpium dryopteris Osmunda regalis Phegopteris connectilis Polypodium vulgare The options listed above are by no means your only options, but this list may give you a place to start when planning a planting scheme for your garden. One final note of caution however – remember that soil pH is only one of the criteria you should look at when choosing plants for your garden. So not all of the above will be suitable for all gardens with acidic soil – you also need to look at other factors alongside pH to make the right choices.
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Sungold Tomatoes Were First Introduced In The 1990's - They Have Their Pros And Cons
IN THIS GUIDE Overview ‘Sungold’ Variety Pros ‘Sungold’ Variety Cons How To Grow ‘Sungold’ ‘Sungold’ Plant Care Harvesting Sungold Tomatoes References Sungold Tomatoes are an extremely popular tomato variety to grow in UK gardens. Sungold tomatoes are a type of orange cherry tomato – an F1 hybrid variety which is by far the most popular variety of its type to grow in UK gardens. This variety was developed by a Japanese breeder – Tokita Seed Company.1 It was introduced to gardeners in the UK in the early 1990s and has become a very popular tomato to grow. Overview Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum ‘Sungold‘ Common Name(s) Sungold Tomato Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Vines with green serrated leaves Flowers Yellow flowers which bear fruit When To Sow January, February, March, April Plant Out May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October Harvesting Months August, September, October When To Prune July, August, September The parent plants for this hybrid are a proprietary and closely guarded secret – but there is some speculation that one of the parents of ‘Sungold’ is the famous Brandywine heirloom tomato variety, which is considered to be one of the best beefsteak tomatoes to grow. ‘Sungold’ Variety Pros Without a doubt, the main reason that so many people choose to grow this tomato variety in their gardens is its taste. It is a particularly sweet tomato, prized for its delicious flavour: It has a particularly high Brix (sweetness) rating of 9.3 and is considered to be one of the sweetest of all tomatoes.2 It is great for salads, and even for eating on its own, straight from the garden as a sweet treat. Kids tend to love them, even when other tomatoes are not for them. This variety has received a Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit.3 It is pretty reliable and regularly produces good yields of roughly 20-25 fruits per truss and 100-120 tomatoes per plant. They can be grown outdoors, or in a greenhouse or polytunnel and these plants can be attractive as well as productive. Their bright golden, orange-yellow fruits can also look great in your garden. ‘Sungold’ Variety Cons One of the main downsides to this tomato variety is that it is an F1 hybrid – this means that it will not come true to type from seed: If you want to save your own seeds from your tomato plants to sow next year, then you will have to choose an heirloom or heritage variety. There are a number of other yellow-fruited heritage cherry tomato varieties to choose from – ‘Galina’, ‘Gold Nugget’ and ‘Golden Sunruse’ are a few alternatives to consider. One other thing to note is that the skins on the fruits of this tomato are thin, and can split easily, though this is not usually an issue as you will likely want to eat your tomatoes right away, as soon as they are ripe. Like other tomato varieties, ‘Sungold’ can be susceptible to certain pests and diseases. If grown as a bush-type tomato, the foliage on this variety can become very crowded and this means that fungal infections may be more likely. ‘Sungold’ is best grown as a cordon, which does mean that you will have to spend some time thinking about support. How To Grow ‘Sungold’ Since ‘Sungold’ is such a popular option, you should have no difficulty in sourcing your tomato seeds or plants. These are common at garden centres and easy to find online. Just make sure that you buy your seeds or plants from a reputable and certified source, so you get what you expect, and do not import problem pests or diseases into your garden. Where To Grow As mentioned above, Sungold tomatoes can be grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or outdoors. Like other tomatoes, they need moist yet free-draining, fertile soil, and as much sun and warmth as possible. Since this is a cordon variety of cherry tomato, one important consideration when choosing a location to grow these tomatoes is how you will provide the necessary support. Cordon tomatoes must usually be trained up wires, strings or canes, with a single leader, rather than being allowed to bush out – side shoots will be removed. One interesting thing to consider is that these can also be grown in containers, and even grown in hanging containers upside down. Growing From Seed Sungold tomatoes are best sown indoors, before the last frost date in your area. I started mine last year at the end of February, then potted up and hardened off before planting out into the garden once the weather had warmed, sometime in mid-May where I live. “The most common risk to tomatoes grown outside is late blight which infects plants by wind-borne fungal spores later in the growing season and can quickly kill plants and ruin the crop,” shares Roy Nicol, a Horticultural Consultant. “However, by starting them early in this way, it can often be avoided, especially when supported by good hygiene and rotation practices.” My harvest was exceptional (as you can see in some of my images below) so I would absolutely stick to a similar timeline again in future – though it is sensible to base your decisions on the weather patterns at the time. Planting Out When planting out, you should bury the plants in the soil a little deeper than the level that they were at in their previous pot, burying more of the stem. This encourages new roots to form on the stem that is now below the ground and leads to a healthier, bigger and stronger root system, and better yields. Before planting, make sure that you have your cordon supports in place. “I find by far the easiest method of supporting cordon tomatoes is using strong twine (5mm) tied around the base of the young plant at one end and to the top of the greenhouse or trellis if grown outside,” adds Roy. “As the plant grows and the side shoots are pinched out, the main stem is simply twisted around the twine. This supports stems bearing long trusses of fruit very well.” If you try to place these after planting, you risk damaging the young plants or their root systems. ‘Sungold’ Plant Care Make sure that you keep Sungold tomatoes well-watered throughout the growing season. Try also to ensure that you always water the soil at the base of the plant, where the water is needed – not the foliage. Damp foliage can increase the risk of fungal infections taking hold, and may cause sunscald or other damage to your plants. Fertilisation is crucial for best results, and you should always choose organic options. Mulch well around your Sungold tomato plants with organic mulch (comfrey leaves work well). Also feed with a potassium-rich liquid feed every couple of weeks once the flowers and then fruits begin to form. Again, comfrey is a good option – I find that fertilising tomatoes with a comfrey tea works well. For highest yields, it is also a good idea to think about companion planting – basil is one plant that is always an excellent companion plant for tomatoes. A range of other aromatic herbs can also be hugely beneficial – flowers like marigolds, borage etc. can be excellent for drawing in pollinators to your vegetable garden and aiding in pest control. Basil and Sungold companion planting If you are growing under cover then you should try to make sure that there is always access for pollinators during the crucial period. If there is a lack of pollinators, you may wish to take matters into your own hands to ensure good pollination. Harvesting Sungold Tomatoes If you have successfully reared and cordoned your Sungold tomato plants then you should be able to expect to harvest your first tomatoes around the beginning of August; then over the next couple of months. Unfortunately, ‘Sungold’ are not one of the tomato varieties which will ripen up well indoors when picked before maturity – so make sure you let them ripen fully on the vine. If you grow them well and in the right location, Sungold tomatoes should be a treat for you and your family. While as a cordon type, they might not always be the easiest type of tomato to grow, they can certainly deliver good yields of delicious fruits when handled correctly. References 1. Sungold, F1 Hybrid. (2023, August 17). Worldtomatosociety. Retrieved October 2, 2023, from https://worldtomatosociety.com/tomatoes/sungold-f1-hybrid/#:~:text=%27SunGold%20F1%20Hybrid%27%20was%20developed,and%20liked%20%27Brandywine%27%20tomato 2. RHS top 10 cherry tomatoes with AGM status for your garden. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/articles/graham-rice/edibles/10-cherry-tomatoes 3. Tomatoes: RHS Award of Garden Merit. (2011). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agmtomatoes.pdf
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How To Grow The Highly Prized Desiree Potato, A Versatile Red-Skinned Cultivar
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Desiree Pros Desiree Cons Where To Find Them Where To Grow Planting Guidelines Desiree Plant Care Harvesting ‘Desiree’ potatoes are one of the most popular potato varieties for home growers in England and Wales. It is a cultivar of red-skinned potato (Solanum tuberosum) usually used as the main-crop and is highly prized by gardeners and allotment holders. The plant is of medium height, and can sprawl a little later on in its growing cycle; the flowers are reddish-violet, fading to white. Overview Botanical Name Solanum tuberosum ‘Desiree’ Common Name(s) Desiree Potato Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Netherlands Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Leafy green plants Flowers White flowers When To Sow March, April, May, June Flowering Months June, July, August Harvesting Months July, August, September, October The tubers themselves are fairly large if left to mature to full size as a maincrop potato, but they can also be harvested a little early for an early maincrop if desired. Desiree Pros One of the main benefits of Desiree potatoes is that they have pretty good resistance to drought. This means that they can be a good choice where water is short in summer, or where it is more difficult to ensure adequate irrigation or water as frequently as you should. Another good thing about Desiree potatoes is that they have pretty good disease resistance. This cultivar is immune to problems that can plague other varieties, such as potato wart and skin spot – and it also has good resistance against tuber late blight. Another thing that many people like about this potato variety is that it is a fairly waxy potato, which has a lot of versatility in the kitchen. It can be used for mashing, for chipping, for roasting, and in a range of other ways. “I can’t grow ‘Desiree’ as it crops too late for my blight-prone garden, despite its greater resistance than other cultivars,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “However, I would love to be able to due to it being a tasty all-rounder in the kitchen.” Desiree Cons While in general, the disease resistance of Desiree potatoes is better than many other varieties of potato, it is worthwhile noting that it can still encounter problems. Though the tubers are generally fairly resistant to late blight, the foliage can be affected; leaf roll can also be a problem. And this is not a potato which is resistant to common scab – so may not be the best variety to grow if this is a particular problem in your garden. It also has a weakness to eelworms and potato cyst nematodes. One very important thing to note is that while this can be a great option for gardeners in most of England and Wales, it does not do well in Scotland. When grown in Scotland (where I live) the tubers can be watery and bland and yield very disappointing results. If you live further north, or in a wetter area, you will likely be better off opting for a different variety. Where To Find Them If you do decide that Desiree potatoes are the right option for you, you should find that you have no difficulty at all in getting your hands on some good-quality seed potatoes. The popularity of this variety means that they are widely available in garden centres, online, and in other stores. Often, you can even find bargain seed potatoes of this type in affordable supermarket stores. However, for best results, you should try to find seed suppliers from a certified, reputable supplier, so you know where they come from, and that they are pest and disease-free. If you buy from a reputable supplier, you should get around 10-11 good-sized seed potatoes in one 1kg bag. Where To Grow Desiree potatoes can be grown in the ground or in containers, wherever other potatoes could be grown. They will thrive in any soil which is fertile, moist yet moderately free draining, with plenty of organic matter – and will do best in full sun. Potatoes will do well in any soil with a moderate pH, but do best in slightly acidic soil. Planting Guidelines Desiree potatoes, like other potatoes, can be chitted (left to form green shoots) before planting, though opinions differ on exactly how much difference this makes. Chitted desiree potatoes in a garden trench This variety is usually chitted from around the second half of February and then planted out less than a month before the last frost date in your area. For most, the best time to plant outdoors will be late March or early April. Desiree Plant Care Care for Desiree potatoes does not differ from that of other potatoes. You should keep the plants watered during dry periods if possible (though as noted above, this variety does have fairly good drought resistance). You should ensure that the planting area is fertile, and that you take steps to maintain fertility over time. Companion Planting It is a good idea to consider not only which potato variety you will grow, but also which plants you will choose as companion plants for your potatoes. Companion planting is a great idea in an organic garden and can help you obtain higher yields. Some companion plants to consider include horseradish, garlic, onions or other alliums, peas or beans for nitrogen fixation, parsley, sage, thyme and other aromatic herbs, and flowers like marigolds, borage etc. For the highest yields, we would also recommend that you adopt a no-dig gardening approach, and mulch well around your potato plants. Potatoes in a no-dig garden bed are much easier to harvest. Mulching Mulch can be used as an alternative to earthing up around potatoes in the more traditional way. Comfrey leaves make an excellent mulch for potato plants, for example. A comfrey liquid feed can also be beneficial, while I have also found that mulching with seaweed yields excellent results. Though you should use natural mulch materials which are readily available in your area. Harvesting Desiree potatoes should be ready for harvest from around 16-18 weeks after they were planted. You can expect these potatoes to be ready to harvest around the end of July, though this can vary considerably depending on conditions each year. Make sure you store your potatoes properly to get the most out of your harvest. Remember, Desiree potatoes are not the only option to consider – there are plenty of other interesting and versatile potato varieties to try. For gardeners in most of England and Wales, they are certainly a good option to consider.
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Photinia ‘Red Robin’ - How To Grow This Extremely Popular, Glossy-Leaved Cultivar
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Photinia ‘Red Robin’? How To Grow Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Care References Photinia ‘Red Robin’ is almost a garden cliché due to its popularity, but there is good reason for that and it could still be a great choice for your garden. Many gardeners and landscapers choose this useful shrub for their gardens – but just because this is a common choice, doesn’t mean that it’s one to avoid. On the contrary, this is a plant which works very well in many gardens in the UK and which could be an excellent choice for your own garden. Overview Botanical Name Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ Common Name(s) Christmas Berry Plant Type Shrub Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Sparse creamy-white flowers When To Plant April, May Flowering Months April, May When To Prune February, March Photinia, technically Photinia x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ is a popular red-leaved cultivar of Photinia, also known as ‘Christmas Berry’. This is a family of North American and Asian shrubs – with most of those used in gardens being forms of the hybrid P. x fraseri – evergreen hybrids which are grown for their colourful young foliage.1 These were developed from Asian species of this genus; though they do flower, they do so sparsely, with small, creamy-white flowers in spring. ‘Red Robin’ is an eye-catching example of this group of evergreen hybrids. It has bright red young grown, and leaves turn to a dark, glossy shade of green as they mature. While the hybrid originated at the Fraser Nursery in Alabama (hence its name) the ‘Red Robin’ cultivar was subsequently developed in New Zealand.2 It has since become by far the most popular of all Photinias grown in gardens. Why Grow Photinia ‘Red Robin’? Photinia ‘Red Robin’ is a useful and low-maintenance ornamental shrub which can be useful for a garden border. Low-Maintenance Colour It works very well as a shrub for gardeners who wish to break up the green and find colourful foliage plants to bring year-round colour and interest to their garden. It is H5 hardy, and should usually see through the winter with no issue, though young foliage can sometimes get minor frost damage. Easy To Shape You can grow this shrub in a border, or as part of a hedge – it can actually be a very good choice for hedging as it is easy to shape. This also means that it can be an excellent shrub for topiary, and can be shaped in a range of different ways – as a typical shrub, or in a standard tree or pleached tree type form. “I love to grow shrubs like Photinia ‘Red Robin’ as standards in borders,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This allows light to penetrate the ground, allowing the planting of perennials and bulbs to create a real layering of plants through space and time.” It can be kept relatively small, or grow up to around 5m tall; the Royal Horticultural Society has given this plant the Award of Garden Merit. Smaller Cultivars Note that if ‘Red Robin’ is too large for your needs, there is also a recently introduced cultivar, ‘Little Red Robin’. This is a dwarf variety more suited to small gardens or to growing in containers – it typically has a spread and height of no more than a metre or so. How To Grow Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Photinia ‘Red Robin’ will grow best in full sun or partial shade, but in fact, it can survive in a bed with any aspect in your garden – be it south, east, west or north-facing – as long as it is not in deep shade. It can usually cope in sheltered or exposed conditions – however, due to the potential for frost damage, it can be best to place this Photinia in a relatively sheltered spot, out of any frost pockets, if you live in a cooler, more northerly location. Soil Requirements What P. x fraseri ‘Red Robin’ will need is a fertile, humus-rich type of soil, which is clay, loam or sand, and which is neutral or acidic. It will not thrive in alkaline conditions; the soil should be moist but relatively free-draining. If you have heavy clay soil, you should add plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure to improve conditions before planting. Air Circulation One other thing to note is that ‘Red Robin’ needs good air circulation to avoid diseases. So while it can grow well against a garden boundary fence or wall, it should not be hemmed into a corner, or have planting around it which is too dense. Planting ‘Red Robin’ is best planted in spring or autumn. However, you can buy container-grown plants throughout the year. Just avoid planting Photinia during arid and very hot periods in the summer, or when the ground is frozen in winter. If you do plant in summer – take note that your Photinia will require a lot of watering over the first few months until it becomes established. When planting a container-grown Photinia, make sure that you dig a hole double the width of the container, making sure that the depth is correct so that the plant will sit at the same level that it did in the pot. It can be helpful to add a handful of blood fish and bone organic fertiliser to the bottom of the planting hole where soil fertility is not optimal, to get this shrub off to a good start. Place the plant carefully into the hole you have prepared, and fill the soil back in around the plant, tamping it down firmly but gently; water the shrub in well. If you wish to make a hedge of ‘Red Robin’, the plants are usually placed at a spacing of 75cm. Mulch around the Photinia you have planted with a good quality organic mulch to retain water, add nutrients and suppress weeds. Photinia ‘Red Robin’ Care Over time, Photinia ‘Red Robin’ will be an easy plant and will require little care and attention. However, you will need to water during dry periods over the first couple of growing seasons. Replenish the mulch and consider fertilising with an organic fertiliser each spring and autumn for the first couple of years. However, after a couple of growing seasons, a ‘Red Robin’ grown in the ground should not require much more attention from you at all. Companion Planting One final thing to mention is that you should give careful thought to what is planted around your ‘Red Robin’. Growing with White Mignonette These shrubs do not compete well with overly hungry or thirsty neighbours and may suffer if placed too close to particularly vigorous plants. Surrounding the Photinia with smaller, slow-growing plants that mesh well with the colourful foliage of the ‘Red Robin’ is best. Some examples of good neighbours for a ‘Red Robin’ shrub include variegated Euonymous cultivars, Hebe ‘Rhubarb and Custard’, and on acidic sites, small Japanese Acers, and Pieris – perhaps with ground cover of Pachysandra terminalis ‘Variegata’ underneath. References 1. Photinia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30014031-2 2. Photinia × fraseri “Red Robin.” (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=271346
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Flowering Magnolia Trees Are A Truly Beautiful Sight - Here's How To Grow Yours
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Magnolia Varieties How To Grow A Magnolia Tree Magnolia Tree Care Lack Of Flowering References Magnolia trees are beautiful flowering trees which can make a grand statement in a garden. Not everyone will be able to grow a Magnolia tree in their garden, but if you have the right conditions and can give them what they need, then they are a truly beautiful sight. Smaller specimens can also be considered for a container garden. Magnolia trees are trees or large shrubs with large and attractive flowers. Interestingly, this is an ancient genus, which, according to the University of Illinois, evolved before the evolution of bees – its large, tough flowers are thought to have evolved for pollination by beetles and flies.1 According to records from Kew, Magnolia are native to areas in North America and Asia.2 These trees are spreading in form, characterised by, and primarily chosen for, their big, fragrant flowers, which can come in a range of different hues – and most are bowl or star-shaped. The dramatic flowers of plants in this genus make them a popular horticultural choice. Overview Botanical Name Magnolia grandiflora Common Name(s) Magnolia Plant Type Tree Native Area Americas & Asia Hardiness Rating Typically H6 Foliage Large ovate leaves which are leathery to the touch Flowers Large white or pink flowers When To Plant March, April, October, November Flowering Months March, April, May, June, July, August When To Prune July, August Of course, Magnolia trees are usually grown as ornamental additions to a garden – to provide beautiful blooms, but this is not the only reason to consider growing a Magnolia tree in your garden. Magnolia grandiflora petals, for example, are sometimes pickled and used as spicy flavouring – and the flowers of many species are considered edible.3 Magnolia Varieties There are a number of different Magnolia trees to choose from – deciding on the right magnolia to grow is an all important part of the picture. You need to think about which magnolia will be suitable for your own particular garden. You might choose: M. grandiflora M. delavayi M. kobus M. liliiflora M. x loebneri M. salicifolia M. stellata M. virginiana M. wilsonii Magnolias can vary quite significantly from one another – some are deciduous and some are evergreen, and each one has a distinct flower shape, colour and form. “For inspiration on which variety to choose I highly recommend a visit to Borde Hill Garden in West Sussex,” recommends Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “You will experience a fantastic collection of Magnolias from March to May, with most plants handily labelled.” How To Grow A Magnolia Tree Most magnolia trees must be grown in full sun, in a warm and sheltered position. They are typically H6 hardy, but their flowers can easily be damaged by frost in the spring and frost can also damage evergreen foliage in autumn. Exposure A sheltered site is particularly important – M. grandiflora and M. delavayi will thrive when espaliered against a warm south-facing wall, and may not survive the winter outdoors in areas where winter temperatures drop below roughly -5°C. Wind damage can be a problem, so magnolias must be planted where wind rock and wind damage to leaves will not be a problem. Soil Requirements Most magnolia trees will do best in an acidic or neutral soil – however, many Magnolia species can tolerate alkaline conditions. In dry alkaline conditions, M. grandiflora or M. delayvayi could be good options to consider. On moister soils, M. kobus, M. x loebneri or M. wilsonii could be good bets. M. grandiflora and M. virginiana will tolerate wetter soil conditions. However, if you do have alkaline soil, particularly very alkaline soil, you will usually do better to grow a smaller magnolia specimen in a container, with a moderately acidic potting mix. “I have had success on moist but not waterlogged alkaline soil with Magnolia stellata,” adds Dan. “This spring star with showy fragrant flowers often blooms before leaves emerge giving you a magnificent constellation of white blooms enhanced by a background of dark stems.” Sunlight If you do not have an area with full sun and would like to grow a magnolia in light, dappled shade, then late-flowering species like M. sieboldii and M. wilsonii can tolerate this best. However, you should always grow magnolias in full sun here in the UK where possible. M. kobus These later flowering species can also be the best bet in cooler, more northerly regions. Planting Magnolias are usually best planted in the autumn, or in the late spring. Since these trees have rather shallow roots, you do not need to dig a very deep hole so planting is relatively easy. Make sure that you dig your planting hole to the same depth as the pot the magnolia came in, and make sure that the point where it has been grafted is not below the soil. Avoid doing any damage to the roots of the plant, since any damage to the roots can affect flowering. Firm the soil back gently around the tree, tamp it down, and water well. It is a good idea to mulch around your new magnolia tree with an organic mulch of bark, leaf mould or garden compost. Magnolia Tree Care To promote good growth and healthy flowering, make sure a magnolia gets as much sun as possible. However, it is also important to ensure that the soil in the planting location does not dry out during the summer months. M. virginiana Always take care to water in dry weather, especially before the tree reaches maturity. Remember, watering needs will be higher when a magnolia is grown in a container. Pruning Guidelines Once your magnolia tree has flowered (which, depending on variety, will be sometime between March and August), this is a good time to undertake any necessary pruning. Magnolias should only be pruned lightly, to remove any dead, damaged, diseased branches, or any branches which cross and are rubbing against one another. These trees do not respond well to more extreme pruning, and can stop flowering when pruned too zealously. If you have a mature magnolia tree that requires renovation, it is best to undertake this work gradually over a number of years – pruning only a few branches at a time so as to reduce stress. Each spring, you should replenish the mulch around your magnolias, to maintain fertility. Use composted wood chip or bark, leaf mould, compost, or a well-rotted manure. Propagation Should you wish to propagate new plants from a Magnolia tree, this can be done by taking cuttings. It is best to take softwood cuttings from deciduous magnolias in early summer, and semi-ripe cuttings from evergreen types in late summer or early autumn. However, note that this is not the easiest garden task for beginners, and cuttings may need extra light and heat in winter. Lack Of Flowering The most common issue encountered by those trying to grow Magnolia trees is a lack of flowering. It is most important to make sure that you have planted your Magnolia tree in an appropriate position, and chosen the right species for your situation. It is also important to note, however, that newly planted trees might not flower at first. It can take a few years for a newly planted Magnolia tree to ‘settle in’ before it flowers. References 1. Magnolia Pollination. (2018, May 5). Illinois Extension. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/garden-scoop/2018-05-05-magnolia-pollination 2. Magnolia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000709-2 3. Matilda, A. (2022, August 20). Pickled magnolias: spring’s first flowers are edible, with a potent spicy kick. The Guardian. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/food/2022/aug/21/pickled-magnolias-springs-first-flowers-are-edible-with-a-potent-spicy-kick
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