Growing
These 22 Red Roses Were Chosen By Garden Designers As Plants You Can't Live Without
IN THIS GUIDE Red Shrub Roses Hybrid Tea Roses Red Floribunda Roses Red Patio Roses Red Rambling Roses Red Climbing Roses References Roses can look beautiful in almost any garden – red roses are a romantic classic that never goes out of style. One of the most enduring symbols of love and romance in Western culture is the red rose.1 “It’s hard to choose a favourite plant, but I would have to say roses are my ‘can’t live without’ plant,” shares Garden Designer Claudia de Yong. “Wars have been fought over them and there are so many different varieties, shapes, sizes, colours and fragrances.” And rather than buying red roses for your loved one from a florist, you could have some in your very own garden. Buying a living plant rather than cut flowers could be a wonderful reminder for your partner of just how much you care – or it might just look wonderful in your garden – especially if you are going for that traditional cottage garden look. “Red roses can be used in a variety of garden types, from cottage garden to formal, on their own or with perennials and shrubs, in soil, in pots and containers and even window boxes,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “If you like red roses, there’s definitely a type that you can grow at home.” Roses come in many shapes and forms, and are suited to different sites. It is important to think not only about the colour of your roses but also their form and growth habit, and the conditions that they like. “Roses are my favourite plant to photograph,” shares Phao Hewitson, a Photographer. “For me, they epitomise the beauty of a flower – delicate, but at the same time, strong and enduring. There’s no such thing as an ugly or plain rose and planted amongst perennial plants is where I like to see them.” This list should help you work out what type of red rose you are looking for and help you find the right rose or roses for your own particular garden. Red Shrub Roses The first type of rose to consider is shrub roses. These come in many colours, but you will certainly find that there are plenty with beautiful red tones. Shrub roses can vary significantly from one another. There are old-fashioned shrub roses and wild roses, and more modern types. But the care of all shrub roses is more or less the same, and they tend to have the same physical characteristics. They have an open and spreading shape, with arching and often prickly branches which flower along their length. Most shrub roses like a sunny, fertile space with plenty of room to spread out. However some, including wild roses, are happy in poor, dry soil and some shade. Most shrub roses will not tolerate deep shade or permanently claggy or waterlogged soil. If a shrub rose is what you are looking for, here are some red cultivars to consider: 1) R. ‘Benjamin Britten’ 2) R. ‘Red Fountain’ 3) R. ‘L. D. Braithwaite’ 4) R. ‘Red Blanket’ 5) R. moyesii ‘Geranium’ 6) R. ‘Scarlet Fire’ 7) R. ‘Wilhelm’ 8) R. ‘Will Scarlet’ Hybrid Tea Roses Hybrid tea roses are large-flowered bush-type roses that typically have an upright and vase-like form. Their large flowers are usually born singly or in small clusters at the end of each stem. These roses all tend to do best in a sunny site, with free-draining yet slightly moisture-retentive, fertile soil which has been liberally enriched with organic matter. Hybrid tea roses have upright stems which can make them ideal for use as cut flowers. Red hybrid tea roses to consider for your garden include: 9) R. ‘Alec’s Red’ 10) R. ‘Darcey Bussell’ 11) R. ‘Deep Secret’ 12) R. ‘Royal William’ 13) R. ‘Ruby Wedding’ 14) R. ‘Thinking of You’ Red Floribunda Roses Floribunda (cluster-flowered) roses are loosely bush shaped, and bloom repeatedly with masses of flowers during the summer months. Shorter Floribunda roses work well at the front of a border or in a large container, while taller cultivars work well at the back of a border, or in dedicated rose beds. Some interesting red Floribunda roses to consider are: 15) R. ‘Hot Chocolate’ 16) R. ‘Trumpeter’ Red Patio Roses If you would like to grow roses but do not have much space in your garden then patio roses could be ideal for you. They are ideal for containers and compact in form, but bear a multitude of blooms and will typically flower all summer long. As well as working well in pots on a patio, these small roses which grow around 30-60cm high can also work well in mass planting schemes in a larger garden. Some beautiful red patio roses to consider are: 17) R. ‘Marlena’ Red Rambling Roses Rambling roses have sturdy, arching stems and are vigorous plants which can work extremely well when trained to cover a large pergola, wall or other sturdy structure. They can also be grown into the canopy of a large and well-established tree. Ramblers produce clusters of small but bountiful and often fragrant flowers in early summer. While they prefer well-drained, fertile soil in full sun, many can tolerate some shade. Here are a couple of beautiful red rambler roses to consider: 18) R. ‘Rambling Rosie’ Red Climbing Roses Most climbing roses are also extremely vigorous, and many also have wonderful scent. Many repeat flower right through from early summer into autumn. Like ramblers, these are also wonderful for covering walls or fences, or growing over sturdy pergolas or arches. Fertile soil is essential for climbing roses, however, there are cultivars which can cope with both sun and light shade as long as they have sufficient water – especially over the summer months. There are plenty of great red rose cultivars of this type to consider. Here are a few examples: 19) R. ‘Crimson Glory’ 20) R. ‘Danse du Feu’ 21) R. ‘Etoile de Hollande’ 22) R. ‘Tess of the D’Urbervilles’ References 1. Rose meanings: What Does A Rose Symbolise? (n.d.). Bloom & Wild. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.bloomandwild.com/the-meaning-of-roses
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Make Sure You Prune These Common Shrubs In Late Spring Says Horticulturist
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Berberis 2) Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles) 3) Forsythia 4) Flowering Currant (Ribes) 5) Kerria japonica 6) Mock Orange (Philadephus) 7) Spiraea x arguta 8) Weigela Knowing when to prune different plants is important and late spring is the time to prune a number of different shrubs. There are, of course, a wide selection of different plants to prune during each season and late spring is the time to think about pruning a range of shrubs. Here are just some of the shrubs to prune in late spring: 1) Berberis Berberis darwinii Berberis do not always require extensive pruning. But you can prune them to keep their size in check and to keep them full and attractive over time. Late spring, just after Berberis like B. darwinii has finished flowering, is a good time to prune. Pruning at this time allows new growth to harden off before the cold weather arrives once more. And preserves buds for blooms the following spring. However, do not prune all the branches unless absolutely necessary. Otherwise, you’ll get no barberries for yourself, or for the birds. It is a good idea to thin old and defoliated branches, getting rid of any that have been damaged. And it can also be a good idea to prune back up to a third (but no more) of the oldest branches down to the crown. If your Berberis has grown too large, you can also prune back, removing around a third of the length of each branch. You should always be sure to cut just above a leaf node, pair of leaves or lateral branch so new branching growth can occur. To keep your Berberis growing slowly, you can also give it a light trim, removing just a few centimetres of growth at the end of each branch. Take care when pruning Berberis as the spines can be sharp! 2) Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles) Flowering quince is a beautiful shrub, with beautiful red flowers in the spring which are followed by edible fruits which are great with apples in jellies and other preserves. These are shrubs which really don’t need much maintenance at all, but if you do take a little time to prune in late spring then this can sometimes help make your plant healthier and more attractive. First of all, simply look over your shrub once the flowers are fading, and remove anything that is dead, damaged or diseased. If the shrub is getting straggly, you can also shorten the new shoots back to around six leaves. This can be beneficial as it encourages new flowering spurs to form. However, bear in mind that if you remove all flowering shoots, you will not get any fruit later in the year. If you have an old and mature example, you may also find that it needs more extensive renovation pruning. You can remove a third of the stems at the base. If you do this over three years, all of the top growth will be less than three years old and you may find that this has a great impact on the health and appearance of your shrub, which you can then return to only lightly pruning each year. 3) Forsythia Forsythia is another shrub to cut back in late spring after the flowers have faded. This is a shrub that bears its flowers on the new growth it makes this year – so prune in late spring so that the new growth can develop over the summer and you can enjoy another good flowering display next year. It is not a good idea to be too excessive in pruning. If you try to make things too neat this can limit its flowering potential. On younger plants, pruning should usually be restricted. However, if you have a mature Forsythia, you can also consider cutting up to a third of the stems back to the base to encourage healthy new growth to emerge. “I often see Forsythias that have not been pruned have declined in their vigour and flowering,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “The key is to maintain a balance of younger and older wood to keep the vigour of the shrub whilst ensuring there is also a good amount of one-year-old wood, as Forsythia flowers on last year’s growth.” 4) Flowering Currant (Ribes) Ribes is another shrub which should be pruned after it has finished flowering, in late spring. Most younger Ribes will not need excessive pruning, though it can be helpful to give the whole shrub a light trim all over to keep them in check and tidy if it is growing a little wild. As with the Flowering Quince and Forsythia, mature Ribes can also be renovated by pruning up to a third of the oldest stems, repeating this over the next couple of years. However, rather than pruning these to the base, you should prune them to around half a metre or so above the ground. Leave these in place to encourage a bushy growth habit from that height. 5) Kerria japonica Japanese kerria The whippy stems of Kerria can look great growing up through other shrubs. With its sunshine yellow flowers, it can really brighten up the spring garden. This plant will do best if you do prune quite harshly. It may seem extreme, but it is a good idea to remove all shoots which have flowered just after flowering – cutting them right back to the base. You don’t need to worry because after you prune in late spring, long new shoots will spring right up over the summer, and bear new flowers next spring. 6) Mock Orange (Philadephus) After Mock Orange flowers in April and May, you can take the opportunity to prune in June. The best way to keep the plants in shape is to cut back shoots to strong buds every year just after they have finished flowering. The pruned material from your Mock Orange could also be used to create some cuttings. From cuttings of Philadelphus taken at the same time of year, you should be able to relatively easily get cuttings to take root and obtain new plants for free – so you could kill two birds with one stone. 7) Spiraea x arguta Spiraea x arguta After the lacy white flowers of this shrub begin to fade in late spring, it is time to take the opportunity to give this shrub a prune too. Pruning it in late spring will keep it neat and encourage bushy growth. It is a good idea to cut the flowering stems back to a side shoot, and to remove any branches which are not in optimal health entirely. Cutting back hard is not usually a good idea, because with drastic renovation pruning, this Spiraea will tend not to flower at all for a couple of years. 8) Weigela Weigela is another flowering shrub that should be pruned in late spring. This is also another plant that flowers on new growth, so if you prune right after flowering, you will not prune out the new wood which is yet to grow (on which flowers will form next spring). You do not need to prune excessively, but can prune to keep the size of the shrub in check, and to improve its form and appearance. Just make sure that you prune back branches to a point where two branches meet to encourage a bushy form. You can also renovate a mature Weigela by removing the oldest stems every few years, to ensure that there is plenty of young wood and the shrub looks at its best.
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Propagate Hydrangea Through Softwood Cuttings In Summer For Best Results
IN THIS GUIDE Why Take Hydrangea Cuttings? When to Take Hydrangea Cuttings Taking Softwood Cuttings 1) Prepare Your Materials 2) Take Your Cutting 3) Remove Lower Leaves 4) Dip In Rooting Hormone 5) Place Cutting In Potting Mix 6) Re-Pot Your New Plant Taking Semi-Ripe Cuttings Taking Hardwood Cuttings Hydrangeas are popular garden plants, and the good news is that it is relatively easy and straightforward to make new plants from cuttings. Hydrangeas can work well in many gardens – they are hardy and versatile shrubs that can look good and perform well in many different settings. Taking cuttings from your existing hydrangea can be a great idea. You might even be able to arrange to take cuttings from a hydrangea in someone else’s garden that you admire. Why Take Hydrangea Cuttings? Taking hydrangea cuttings is a great way to make new plants – and there are a number of reasons why you might wish to do so. Taking your own cuttings from a hydrangea in your garden (or someone else’s garden) that you like can allow you to create additional shrubs to fill garden beds or borders. One of the benefits of taking your own cuttings rather than buying new plants is, of course, that it will save you money. But it is also worthwhile remembering that it can also be a far more eco-friendly choice. When you take your own cuttings from existing plants, you will not need to buy new plants in harmful peat-based compost or in plastic pots – so it is a win-win for you and the environment. You might also wish to take hydrangea cuttings to give away as gifts, or even to sell. Difficulty Moderate Equipment Required Gardening knife or secateurs, potting mix, pots, windowsill propagator or greenhouse When To Take Cuttings Ideally June – September When to Take Hydrangea Cuttings It is possible to propagate hydrangeas by means of softwood cuttings, taken in around June, or semi-ripe cuttings taken in mid-late summer. Both of these strategies can yield excellent results. You can also take hardwood cuttings from hydrangea in the winter months, though softwood and semi-ripe cuttings generally have the best chance of rooting successfully. So, let’s look in a little more detail at exactly how to take hydrangea cuttings at different times of the year: Taking Softwood Cuttings 1) Prepare Your Materials Take a pair of clean, sharp secateurs. Prepare a container with a suitable potting mix, as softwood cuttings must be potted up as quickly as possible to avoid wilting or moisture loss. Make sure that you use a free-draining potting mix, such as 50% peat-free potting compost and 50% sharp sand. 2) Take Your Cutting Collect a young, non-flowering shoot of around 10cm in length, cutting off the material just below a node on the existing hydrangea shrub. It is best to collect this material early in the day when it contains plenty of water – don’t collect shoots from plants whose leaves are turning brown. 3) Remove Lower Leaves Remove the lower leaves from the cutting, leaving just a couple, and cut the remaining leaves in half to reduce moisture loss if they are large. 4) Dip In Rooting Hormone While softwood cuttings may root successfully without this step, you will usually obtain the best results if you dip the bottom of the cutting into a rooting hormone. You can make your own rooting compound using willow water. 5) Place Cutting In Potting Mix Place the cuttings you have taken into the potting mix, inserting them around the edge of the pot or container you have prepared. Cover the container with your cuttings with a cloche or plastic bag to retain moisture, or place them in a greenhouse or polytunnel out of direct sun and keep them relatively cool and moist until they root successfully. 6) Re-Pot Your New Plant The cuttings should have rooted successfully within around a month. At this point they can be potted on into their own individual containers and placed out in the garden towards the end of the summer months. Taking Semi-Ripe Cuttings The process for semi-ripe cuttings is the same as above. Cuttings are just taken a little later in the year, in mid or late summer. These should also root relatively successfully and rooting is generally quick for cuttings that are taken during the summer months. Semi-ripe cuttings are a little sturdier, and less prone to wilting than softwood hydrangea cuttings. The only difference with semi-ripe cuttings is that once rooted, these should generally be overwintered in pots on an unheated greenhouse, cold frame or polytunnel before being planted out in late spring the following year. You can also try placing semi-ripe cuttings from hydrangea directly in the soil, but these will not usually be rooted completely until late spring next year. Taking Hardwood Cuttings Hardwood cuttings are not the easiest way to propagate hydrangeas. However, since these are taken during the dormant period when there is less to do in the garden, you may find it easier to find the time for this job later in the year. As above, choose a sharp, clean pair of secateurs for the job. Prepare somewhere to place the hardwood cuttings that you take. With hardwood cuttings, you can prepare a site in the soil outside in well-drained, fertile soil with plenty of organic matter. However, with just a few cuttings, you can also place these in pots as above. Choose a vigorous and healthy shoot of this year’s growth from your hydrangea shrub. Remove the soft growth at the tip. Cut the material into sections around 15-30cm long. Cut with a slope across the top to shed water, just above a bud. And cut flat across the base just below a bud. Dip the end in rooting hormone, which also contains a fungicide to protect against rotting. Cinnamon is one DIY fungicide option to consider. Take the cuttings and place them in the soil of the area you have prepared. Two-thirds of the cutting should be below the soil surface. There should be at least 10-15cm between each hardwood cutting if they are in the ground. The cuttings should remain in place in the soil or in their pots to form roots until the following autumn, and care should be taken not to allow them to dry out through the summer months. Mature plants can grow to quite some size! And that’s it! Simply follow the steps according to the type of cutting you’re taking and watch your new Hydrangea grow and flourish!
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Organic Gardener Shares How To Identify And Fix A Serious Leatherjacket Infestation
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Leatherjackets? What Do They Look Like? Are They A Problem In The Garden? How To Identify A Leatherjacket Problem Leatherjacket Benefits In A Garden Ecosystem How To Deal With A Serious Infestation References Leatherjackets can be a common problem in lawns, eating roots and causing patches. But what exactly are leatherjackets? Are they really a problem? And what should you do about them? In this article, we’ll take a closer look at these common larvae, how you can work out if you have leatherjackets causing damage in your lawn, flower beds or vegetable patches – and what to do about it if you do. What Are Leatherjackets? Leatherjacket Leatherjackets are the larvae of crane flies, also known as ‘daddy longlegs’ (Tipula ssp.).1 There are a range of different species of crane flies present in UK gardens. What Do They Look Like? The larvae are grey-brown in colour, with no obvious head and no legs. Depending on the species they can be up to 3cm long. They take their name from the fact that these larvae have a tough leathery skin. The long dangling legs of the adults make them easily recognisable, and they are a familiar sight across the British Isles. Female adult crane flies lay up to 300 eggs in the lawn or on the soil surface sometime in the late summer.2 After a couple of weeks, a proportion of these will hatch into the leatherjacket larvae. If the weather is dry at this time, fewer will tend to hatch successfully. If the weather over the winter is cold, the leatherjackets will overwinter as small larvae and will not grow to feed on plants or potentially cause problems until the following mid-summer. However, if the winter is mild, young larvae will continue to feed and can begin to cause problems by the time winter is through. Once the leatherjackets are fully grown, they pupate below the soil surface. The adult flies then emerge from their pupal cases and the life cycle continues. Are They A Problem In The Garden? It is important to understand that only a few species of crane fly larvae actually pose a problem in your garden. These few species can be problematic because they eat the roots of lawn grasses, leaving yellow or brown patches and causing the grasses to die back in certain infested areas. Leatherjackets can also occasionally become an issue in vegetable plots or flower beds, especially in new beds which have recently been created over an area of lawn. The larvae may nibble off seedlings at ground level, causing them to collapse. How To Identify A Leatherjacket Problem It is important not to rush to judgement if you see adult crane flies in your garden. Because these may not be of the species which pose a threat to your lawn or seedlings. If you do see patches of dead or dying grass in your lawn, or patches where birds have made small round holes in the turf, then leatherjackets may be the issue. But it is important to investigate a little to make sure that a different problem is not to blame. Dry and dying patches of lawn can have a range of causes. To make sure that it is leatherjackets and not a disease or other pest issue, you should lift a patch of the turf that is affected. If leatherjackets are present, you should see that the root system of the affected grass is damaged or practically non-existent, and should find the culprits themselves fairly easily in the upper layers of the soil. You can also see whether leatherjackets are the problem by watering and then covering the affected area with a layer of black plastic. Leave this is place overnight. The next morning, if leatherjackets are present, lift the cover and you should see a large number of these grubs on the surface. Where you see holes in the soil where birds have dug in their beaks, this could be a tell-tale sign that larvae are present. Corvids and starlings will look for leatherjackets in this way. However, they could also be looking for chafer grubs. Foxes and badgers may also dig up chafer grubs, so if there is greater disturbance then chafer grubs may be more likely to be the issue. In a new flower or vegetable bed, if seedlings or small plants have their stems damaged at the soil level and collapse, there can be a number of culprits. Again, looking around in the upper levels of the soil for the leatherjackets themselves will help you identify whether or not these pests are to blame. Leatherjacket Benefits In A Garden Ecosystem Leatherjackets can be a pest for those who like a neat and tidy lawn, and can occasionally be an issue in other parts of the garden. But as mentioned above, it is important to remember that only a small number of crane fly species have larvae which will actually do any damage. Even if you do have an infestation of a damaging type, it will need to be rather a large infestation to pose a serious threat to your lawn grasses or other plants. It is important to remember that like all other garden creatures, crane flies and their larvae are part of the garden ecosystem. The best way to deal with any pest species is not to eradicate them or get rid of them entirely. Rather, the best strategy is to manage their numbers, and create a balanced ecosystem with plenty of predators to keep their numbers down. “Leatherjacket populations would rarely be large enough to cause yellowing or die back in lawns to a significant level,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Especially today when we are less likely to be wanting a green carpet outdoors but looking to see grass in the garden as a resource for wildlife. “If a severe problem does arise, most likely it will not persist and return to lower levels.” So if you have a lot of crane flies and leatherjackets, look to attract plenty of the birds and other species which eat them to your garden. They can be valuable prey for a range of different animals. Those many species of crane fly which do not cause damage feed not on roots of plants but on decaying vegetation, fungi etc. They therefore play an important role in recycling nutrients in the soil and can be beneficial within the garden ecosystem. How To Deal With A Serious Infestation If you do have a serious infestation of damaging leatherjackets in your garden, then it is of course important to manage the problem organically. First of all, try to manage the problem by manually removing the larvae, and by taking steps to increase the numbers of natural crane fly predators present in your garden. If all else fails, however, there is a biological control to consider. It is possible to purchase certain pathogenic nematodes – Steinernema feltiae or Steinernema carpocapsae, which can be watered into the lawn, or soil. These nematodes are microscopic organisms which enter the bodies of the leatherjackets and give them a bacterial disease. These can be used in moist soil, which has a temperature of at least 12°C. When the conditions are right, these should be watered into the area of the infestation and the surrounding area. However, it is crucial not to try this when the soil is too cold. If the leatherjacket population is out of control and a lot of damage is being caused, these nematodes can be the most effective solution. References 1. Baker, J. (n.d.). Leatherjackets and Crane Flies. NC State Extension Publications. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/leatherjackets-and-craneflies 2. Crane Flies | Facts & Identification, Control & Prevention. (2020, July 24). Orkin Canada. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.orkincanada.ca/pests/flies/crane-flies/
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8 Autumn-Flowering Perennials For Late Interest Recommended By Garden Designers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Japanese Anemone 2) Aster 3) Sedum 4) Salvia 5) Nerine 6) Echinacea 7) Rudbeckia 8) Agastache Autumn can sometimes be thought of as the end of the summer colour in the garden and the arrival of autumnal foliage. But it needn’t be, as there are some wonderful perennial plants that continue blooming or begin to burst into flower at the end of the summer, providing some stunning late-season interest. “Autumn is my favourite time of year to be in the garden, because it is beautiful and also never too hot or wet,” shares Paul Hervey-Brookes, an award-winning Garden Designer. What’s more, being perennial and presuming the winter is not too harsh, these plants will keep coming back year on year, providing great value for money. Perennials are also relatively maintenance-free, often requiring only deadheading and cutting back at the end of the year. 1) Japanese Anemone Anemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: AUGUST – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETY: Anemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’ From the Ranunculaceae family, these flowers are herbaceous perennials, most originating, not from Japan, but from China. Japanese anemones really come into their own in autumn. They begin to flower in late August and will continue until October or the arrival of the first frosts. They are happiest in either full sun or part shade and prefer a moist, well-drained soil. They are hardy, but may however struggle in wet winters. Flowering in either pinks or whites on tall stems rising above the foliage, they are great for the back of the border. After flowering, cut back the stems and remove any dead foliage in early spring. Beware though, Japanese anemones don’t like being moved once established and have a tendency to spread, almost to the point of being invasive. If there is space for only one, Anemone × hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’ is a stunning plant. Growing to H1.5m x W1m, in almost any soil, it produces pure white single flowers for months on end. 2) Aster Aster × frikartii ‘Mönch’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETY: Aster × frikartii ‘Mönch’ Better known as the Michaelmas daisy, although recently classed botanically as Symphyotrichum, perennial asters are often described as a stalwart of late summer and early autumn colour. Available in blue, purple, pink and white, there is one for every garden. A favourite of pollinators, they will attract wildlife into the garden and flower for months on end from July until the first frosts. Ideal for a cottage garden scheme, asters grow well in any well-drained soil apart from clay. Preferring full sun, they can cope with a sheltered or exposed site. They can be cut back after flowering or the seed heads left on for winter interest and the birds to forage amongst during the colder months. For stunning purple-blue flowers with a yellow centre, blooming from July until October, try Aster × frikartii ‘Mönch’. With good resistance to mildew and growing to 1m in height and 0.5m wide, it is perfect for a mixed border or a container but may need staking earlier on in the year. 3) Sedum Sedum spectabile HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: AUGUST – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETY: Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ Sedum, or as they are now known as ‘Hylotelephium’, are a group of hardy and sun-loving perennials. With star-shaped flowers set in clusters, they flower from summer into autumn. A drought-tolerant plant, they prefer full sun and grow best in a south-facing spot and well-drained soil. As a valuable source of nectar later in the year, they are loved by pollinators and require little maintenance, as their faded stems can be left for winter interest and cut back in early spring. Hylotelephium ‘Herbstfreude’ or as it was better known – Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ – is a great variety producing vibrant pink flower heads which darken to red over time and brown over winter. With an eventual size of 0.6m tall and 0.4m wide, it looks great planted alongside ornamental grasses. 4) Salvia Salvia amistad HARDINESS RATING: H3 TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: MAY – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETY: Salvia ‘Amistad’ Salvias, or ‘sages’, are a wide group of plants including microphylla, nemrosa and sylvestris cultivars. “I think the best thing you could possibly do is to take a loam-based compost, add it to your container and place a Salvia microphylla into the pot,” shares Garden Designer Lachlan Rae. “Having said that, there are so many varieties to use that are all relatively hardy.” Whether as annual bedding or perennial plants, they are a must-have for any border or container. With so many to choose from, the perennial Salvia ‘Amistad’ has to be a firm favourite though. Producing the most stunning deep purple flowers and black calyces, it really stands out. Growing in an upright habit to H1.2m x W0.5m, it is well suited to the back of the borders and will flower, if deadheaded regularly, from May through to the end of September. A drought-tolerant plant, it requires a sunny and sheltered spot – a south-facing border is ideal. Even though hardy it may not survive the worst winters, but thankfully it takes easily from cuttings to provide backups. 5) Nerine Nerine bowdenii HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: AUGUST – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETY: Nerine bowdenii ‘Isabel’ Nerine bowdenii, or the ‘Bowden lily’ is a hardy, bulbous perennial and part of the Amaryllidaceae family. Originating from South Africa it is no surprise that it favours a well-drained soil and south-facing aspect. So much so that it will not flower if planted in shade. The flowers protrude above its bright green foliage and will brighten up the autumn months from September until November. Growing to around H.5m they are well placed for the front of the border or a container. Nerine bowdenii thrive in poor soil – if the soil is too rich it will encourage more foliage rather than blooms. They hate to be moved so only do so if necessary and don’t despair if they don’t flower afterwards, as they will more than likely bloom the following year. For a spectacular pink flower 8cm across, Nerine bowdenii ‘Isabel’ is worth considering. Growing to 0.5m tall and 0.1m wide, it will benefit from a mulch after flowering to help protect over winter. Over time the bulbs will make offsets and form a clump, even becoming crowded, but don’t worry as they will often flower better when allowed to bulk up. If blooms decrease and the clump gets really large, then they can be divided up and replanted in spring. 6) Echinacea Echinacea purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETY: Echinacea purpurea Echinacea or ‘coneflowers’ as they are commonly known, originate from North America and must be one of the best plants for late summer and autumn colour. Being a rhizomatous perennial, they die back over winter and new growth appears in spring. Preferring full sun, they will tolerate some shade and are most at home in a south-facing spot. Displaying daisy-like flowers in a range of colours including, orange, red, pink and white, they are certain to add an injection of colour later in the year. Now very popular due to prairie style planting, they look equally good in a cottage garden and are loved by pollinators. “To provide a long season of nectar for pollinators, using late summer or early autumn flowering perennials is a must,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “There aren’t many native UK later flowering plants, so using plants like Echinacea and the others in this list, can really help to give a boost to the resources available to pollinators in the UK.” Echinacea purpurea or the purple coneflower is a striking example, producing huge 12cm diameter purple flowers in summer until right into the autumn. Reaching H1.5m x W0.5m they look great at the back of the border and do best in well-drained soil. 7) Rudbeckia Rudbeckia fulgida HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: AUGUST – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETY: Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ For a dazzling yellow late summer display of colour, Rudbeckia or black-eyed Susan as they are also known, can’t be beaten. From July, Rudbeckia produces bright yellow flowers with a brown central disk. A stunning plant, it is perfect for planting in drifts amongst other perennials or ornamental grasses. Originally from North America, they can be annual, biannual or perennial and are particularly easy to grow. Preferring a moist and fertile well-drained soil, they will thrive in a south-facing spot and are lovely as a cut flower due to their long stems and vase life. Most varieties here in the UK are perennials, apart from Rudbeckia hirta, which is not reliably hardy here in the UK and tends to be grown as an annual. Out of the herbaceous perennial varieties, Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ is one of the best known and for good reason. It produces an abundance of large flowers on tall stems until the first frosts and is reliably hardy. Listed by the RHS as a plant for pollinators, it will bring bees and other pollinators into your garden when in flower. 8) Agastache Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETY: Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’ Agastache or giant hyssop is a perennial plant that blooms on spires from July until October. Usually with purple or mauve flowers, other colours now include orange and pink. A tough plant, it is drought tolerant and can put up with poor soil. It requires full sun, ideally in a south or west-facing situation. It can add great height and structure to the garden, but is a short-lived plant and may need replacing every few years. Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’ is a wonderful plant sending up spikes of violet-blue flowers for months on end. Growing to H1m x W0.5m it looks equally good in a border or container. The flowers are a favourite of bees and can be left once faded to add some interest over the winter months. Autumn doesn’t have to mean the demise of colour in the garden, so why not try some of these late-flowering perennials to extend the flowering season.
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Create A Gravel Garden By Following These 5 Steps - Enjoy Versatility And Easy Upkeep
IN THIS GUIDE Benefits Of A Gravel Garden How To Prepare Your Garden For Gravel 1) Level Out The Ground 2) Prepare The Edges 3) Lay Down A Membrane 4) Position Your Plants 5) Lay The Gravel Gravel Types To Choose How To Maintain A Gravel Garden Sure, grass is great – the green lawn is an aesthetic that’s hard to argue with in terms of versatility, ease of upkeep, and general familiarity. But is it the only option you have when landscaping your garden? Far from it! In this article we’ll run you through the basics of planning and building a gravel garden. After reading you’ll have what you need to switch out the tried and trusted green grass garden for something a little different. Something where greys, whites, beiges, and even blacks can become the visually striking backdrops for your outdoor space. Gravel gardens are reliably stunning This article will begin with a general overview of gravel gardens before launching into a quick step-by-step guide to get yours designed and built. Benefits Of A Gravel Garden If you’re looking for instructions on how to create a gravel garden you’ve probably got a good idea of the benefits already, but we’ve round up a few nonetheless to give some context to the uninitiated – Low maintenance: once your gravel garden is ready to, you’ll need to do way less maintenance than a lawn of the equivalent size would require. No mowing: part of the above comes down to the simple fact that you don’t need to mow gravel. Less weeding: perhaps less obvious than not needing to mow stone is that weeds find it much harder to grow through gravel, especially if you use a weed membrane. This means you’ll spend far less time weeding. Great drainage: water drains much more efficiently through gravel than soil, which is great if your current garden is prone to pools and puddles after rainfall. Brightens up the space: another less obvious benefit to gravel is its reflectiveness; a great way to make your garden a little brighter. Security: if you’re concerned about burglars or other home invaders, the distinctive crunch of footsteps on gravel is far more audible than grass. Not a bad introduction, all things considered! Now let’s move on to the steps for preparing your garden for gravel. How To Prepare Your Garden For Gravel There are a few steps between you and your very own gravel garden, but the process is probably less complicated than you might expect. 1) Level Out The Ground The first thing you’ll want to do is get your ground nice and level. Skimp on this step and your gravel is liable to become uneven, potentially also becoming quite hard to walk on. The current level of your ground will determine how much work you have to do here: sometimes it’s enough to run a rake over the dirt to spread out any lumps and bumps; other times you’ll need something more heavy-duty like a specialised lawn roller. 2) Prepare The Edges Unless you want uniform gravel coverage, we recommend marking out edges and boundaries before laying any gravel. You can use bricks, stones, wood, or myriad other materials for this purpose. Marking out these boundaries will help you to visualise what your gravel garden will look like as you build it, presenting plenty of opportunities to refine the design as you go. 3) Lay Down A Membrane One of the benefits of a gravel garden is fewer weeds and less weeding, and a key part of achieving this is making use of a specialised weed membrane (also called landscape fabric). Spreading this out on top of the ground before you add the gravel reduces the likelihood of weeds coming up, and goes some way to keeping your gravel clean by keeping it separate from soil underneath. If people will be walking across your gravel on a regular basis we recommend going for a heavier duty membrane, as a light-duty one is prone to rip or fray under the pressure of frequent foot traffic. For best results, spread out your membrane so it’s taut with little to no rucked up areas. Again: this reduces the likelihood of rips and frays which, over time, can let weeds through. 4) Position Your Plants While you’ll need to plant things out before adding gravel, we also suggest testing the layout of the plants in your garden before putting anything in the ground. Just as with step 2, this gives you an opportunity to refine the design as you go. So, position plants above the membrane first to make sure you’ve got everything where you want it, then plant out properly. You can cut holes in your weed membrane to make space for the root ball, ensuring the plant will be able to grow and that minimal weeds will grow along with it – 5) Lay The Gravel Once you’ve got the space prepared and you’re happy with the design, it’s time to lay the gravel. Invest effort in getting this right the first time to avoid hassle. The first step is tipping out the gravel, then simply use a rake or spade to spread it out over the desired area. Try to keep things as level as possible. Also, don’t be discouraged if the gravel looks a little different on the ground than it did in the store or catalogue: often dust accrues during transit which can change the appearance slightly. Simply wash the gravel once it’s down to get rid of the dust and restore the gravel to its expected appearance. The ideal depth for gravel is 50mm: any shallower and you’re likely to see bald patches as time goes on, whereas you’ll find yourself sinking into deeper gravel when you try to walk on it. Gravel Types To Choose One of the main questions people ask when preparing a gravel garden is “which type of gravel should I choose?” There are lots of types of gravel, all hailing from different types (or combinations of types) of stone. Some common materials include flint, granite, quarts, basalt, and peakstone. Within these categories you’ll find tons of colours, and it’s just as important to choose the right colour as the right material. Granite, for example, comes in exciting colours like red and green along with the more predictable greys and whites. When choosing gravel type bear in mind that darker colours are better at hiding dirt and will require less cleaning as a result. The trade-off is that they’re slightly less reflective than your whites and light greys, meaning that they might not be as suitable if radiant ground cover is something you’re looking for. Size This may not seem like an obvious consideration, but the size of your gravel can make a huge difference to the look and, more importantly, feel of your gravel garden. If your garden will be walked on, anything smaller than 10mm is liable to get stuck in shoe treads: annoying for the person walking, and gradually detrimental to the integrity of your garden. Conversely, 20mm or above is hard to walk on and can increase the risk of injury. Pieces averaging around 12mm come recommended. Shape As with size, shape of gravel is important. Angular pieces fit together better than rounded, and hold more tightly when walked on. How To Maintain A Gravel Garden There are a few things you’ll need to do to keep your gravel garden in tip-top condition, although keep in mind what we said earlier: you’ll spend far less time doing these jobs than you would mowing and maintaining a grass garden! Here’s what you’ll need to do – Remove fallen leaves: leaves can discolour your gravel as they break down and disintegrate, meaning you’ll want to either pick up fallen leaves by hand or use a leaf blower to clear them away. Watch out for bird droppings! As with leaf matter, bird poo can have an enduring unsightly effect on your gravel. Try to prevent birds being able to perch above your gravel, but if the odd excrement manages to get through, spray or scrub it away. Keep an eye out for damp: over time, dampness and moisture can lend an ugly green hue to your gravel. This is especially noticeable on white and other light colours and, as with bird droppings, your best bet is preventing moisture in the first place rather than cleaning stones after the event. “Gravel will slowly accumulate organic matter from leaves, other organic debris and the action of soil life,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “One way I have found effective, rather than washing debris into the gravel, where it will build up above the membrane, is to use a weed burner. “This has the effect of burning off organic matter whilst controlling weeds and seeds.” Cleaning Your Gravel If you do find yourself needing to clean your gravel, there are a few options. A hosepipe and brush is your first port of call: simply spray and scrub to remove light blemishes. A pressure washer is a good option if the dirt is more ingrained. Just blast the gravel and watch the unsightly marks disappear. (Use a low or medium setting to avoid blasting gravel all over the place). In the case of a very localised mess, you can scrub individual stones with a hand brush to restore them to their former glory. Obviously, we don’t recommend this if you’re cleaning your entire supply, unless you’ve got a very small garden or an incredible amount of patience. Our top tip is to keep some spare gravel in reserve to cover over dirty areas if you don’t have the energy for cleaning.
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These 20 Native British Flowers Are The Favourites Of Horticulturists Everywhere
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Primrose 2) Snake’s Head Fritillary 3) Lily of the Valley 4) Honeysuckle 5) Forget-Me-Nots 6) Dog Rose 7) Wild Cherry 8) Elder 9) Cheddar Pink 10) Cornflower 11) Stinking Hellebore 12) Foxgloves 13) Common Wayfaring Tree 14) Columbine 15) Ragged Robin 16) Wood Anemone 17) Viper’s Bugloss 18) Ox-Eye Daisy 19) European Buckthorn 20) Fieldrose Bloom Britannia References In today’s globalised world, we’re fortunate to have access to flowers and plants from all over the place. The string of pearls from Southwest Africa, for example; or maybe the creeping fig from Southeast China. String of Pearls – not native to these shores Years of cultural interplay and international shipping have given us easy access to these varieties, making it easy to bring the exotic and formerly unusual right into our homes. Sometimes, though, it’s good to bring things back to long-established traditions. To tap into the types of floral display that would’ve been familiar to our ancestors many years ago: native British flowers that are attractive to look at and perfectly suited to our climate and growing conditions. So, if you’re looking to pay homage to the flowers that have defined British beds for generations, this list is for you. Here, we spotlight twenty flowers that are native to our fine country, along with all the information you’ll need to get them growing in your gardens. 1) Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: PRIMULA VULGARIS PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; ACIDIC / NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE The common primrose is a familiar and beautiful sight in British springtime. Their simple white petals with a dab of yellow in the centre draw the eye and provide a subtle yet elegant backdrop for the spring palette. With a relatively early bloom, the primrose is a great way to extend the period of visual interest in your garden. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) deem primrose to be worthy of the Award of Garden Merit (AGM): an accolade that demonstrates particular suitability to being grown in British gardens. Given the theme of this piece we’ve prioritised flowers in receipt of the AGM, as it’s a fine testament to their prestigious position in our gardening history. Primrose enjoys full sun or partial shade, with any aspect except north-facing. They’re not fussy with soil composition, though will do best in acidic or neutral pH levels. Gardeners in the further reaches of the UK will do well with primrose thanks to the flower’s H7 hardiness rating: indicative of an ability to weather even the most extreme European conditions. 2) Snake’s Head Fritillary BOTANICAL NAME: Fritillaria meleagris PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING HARDINESS RATING: H5 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE The distinctive lantern lilt of this flower establishes it firmly as one of our aesthetic favourites, and that’s before you even consider the stunning dappled pink-purple colour palette. In fact, this would be one of the flowers we’d be first to recommend for people looking to bring a touch of the exotic to their garden: the lamp-like appearance evoking something approximating traditional oriental ambience. This flower is a fantastic demonstration of how a native British breed can function in a range of thematic displays. The moody colours and captivating shape will look great alongside a wide variety of other flowers, hailing from these shores or beyond. For best results with the snake’s head fritillary choose a spot in full sun or partial shade. Any aspect will do, and they’re not fussy in terms of soil composition or pH. These flowers are slightly less hardy than the primrose but will still hold their own against all but the most severe of wintry conditions. The snake’s head fritillary is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 3) Lily of the Valley BOTANICAL NAME: Convallaria majalis PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: CLAY OR LOAM; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SHADE / PART SHADE So many British flowers have a medley of names, derived from various regional labels that still compete for prevalence. Lily of the valley is a fine example of this: you’ll see it referred to variously as May lily, our lady’s tears, mayflower, mugget, conval lily, and more. And while there’s a lot of variety, you can see a common theme running through the names of late spring and femininity. Look at the flower itself and it’s clear to see why. The dainty, almost bonnet-like shape of the flowers combined with their pure white colour brings to mind an image of a fairytale maiden: something distinctly evocative of our history. To bring this intriguing flower to your garden you’ll need to find a spot in full or partial shade. Any aspect except south-facing is suitable, and you’re not limited to any specific soil pH. Avoid chalk- or sand-based soils where possible, and ensure good drainage. This flower has also been awarded the AGM by the Royal Horticultural Society, meaning three for three in this list so far. 4) Honeysuckle BOTANICAL NAME: LONICERA PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H6 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE Notable for its enticing, sweet smell, the humble honeysuckle is a long-standing favourite in British gardens. Boasting many varieties, this plant has a lot to offer to anyone with a green thumb. The pinks, yellows, whites, and deep reds offered across the honeysuckle family make it a versatile and attractive choice; as does its ability to draw in bees, butterflies, and other pollinating insects to your garden. The buzz of natural activity surrounding the stunning colour palette guarantees you’ll have something beautiful to look at in any bed featuring this flower. Ideal conditions vary between varieties so make sure to check the specific growing instructions for your plant. In general though, honeysuckle is well-suited to British conditions and you shouldn’t have much trouble getting it established. 5) Forget-Me-Nots BOTANICAL NAME: MYOSOTIS PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL / ANNUAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H6 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE Rare is the flower whose bloom brings a touch of blue, and no list of British flowers would be complete without the striking colour of the forget-me-not. One of our favourite springtime scenes is a blanket of forget-me-nots spread out in a woodland clearing, and bringing this aesthetic to your garden – even with a much smaller spread – is something we highly recommend. And if you’re like us, you’ll get the added benefit of remembering the famous musical mention of this flower each time you tend to them. A great example of how traditional British flowers have crossed the cultural barrier to become immortalised. These flowers enjoy partial shade in any aspect, and like chalk-, clay-, or loam-based soil. Water well but ensure the soil has adequate drainage. In terms of hardiness, forget-me-nots can hold their own against all but the absolute worst of our weather: we’re talking freak winters in the northern reaches of Scotland where temperatures drop below -15°C. 6) Dog Rose BOTANICAL NAME: ROSA CANINA PLANT TYPE: SHRUB FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN For many years there was a bush outside the house a couple of doors along from me that erupted into a vibrant pink bloom every spring, and I had no idea what it was. Only after researching which flowers to bring into my garden did I discover that it was dog rose I’d been looking at, and safe to say I’ve not looked back since. As with lily of the valley, this is a plant that goes by many names. And to be honest, we can’t help feeling that ‘dog rose’ – the most common – does the flower something of an injustice. Just take a look at the proud pink bloom offset by a zesty yellow centre and tell us that some of the other names – briar rose, bird briar, cat whin, or even canker rose – don’t speak more to the distinctive palette? Whatever your thoughts on the name, this flower will make a fine addition to your British-themed floral displays. The colours are striking, the bloom is expansive. And who knows, maybe you’ll draw the eye of a budding gardener in your neighbourhood and inspire a future foray into writing about gardening. Grow your dog rose in full sun in any aspect, and ensure moist but well-drained soil. This plant isn’t fussy, so instead of worrying about growing conditions you can sit back, relax, and enjoy the show. 7) Wild Cherry BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus avium PLANT TYPE: TREE FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING HARDINESS RATING: H6 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN This deciduous tree (sometimes grown as a shrub) is native to the UK and can be grown in most areas, provided it has full exposure to the sun. Its spring flowers will gradually make way for fruiting in autumn, often providing an edible yield in addition to the beautiful white clusters of flowers. This is a large-sized tree that will require plenty of room to grow into. 8) Elder BOTANICAL NAME: SAMBUCUS NIGRA PLANT TYPE: SHRUB FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H6 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE Sambucus nigra is commonly known as Black Elder or Elderberry. It is usually grown as a shrub or small tree in the UK, with a maximum growing height of 5-6m. Umbels of white bushy flowers in summer usually turn into black berries in autumn, before the plant then loses its leaves in winter. When overgrown this plant can be hard pruned into a new shape without compromising its health. 9) Cheddar Pink BOTANICAL NAME: Dianthus gratianopolitanus PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL / ANNUAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H6 SOIL: ANY TYPE; ALKALINE PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN Commonly grown as an alpine plant, Cheddar Pinks are mat-forming perennials that are mostly evergreen in their native British conditions. It should be grown in full sun and alkaline soil to maximise the bright pink, fragrant blooms in summer. 10) Cornflower BOTANICAL NAME: Centaurea cyanus PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL / ANNUAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H6 SOIL: LOAM OR SAND; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN The beautiful bright blue flowers of Centaurea cyanus are ideal for wildlife gardens and will really stand out amongst the various colours of a wildflower meadow. Cornflowers prefer to grow in full sun with well-drained soil that is predominantly made up of loam or sand. Deadhead the flowers throughout spring to prolong the plant’s flowering period throughout the summertime. 11) Stinking Hellebore BOTANICAL NAME: Helleborus foetidus PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: WINTER HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; ALKALINE PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE Stinking Hellebore is slightly unusual in that its flowers have the unusual appearance of being a similar colour to its stems and foliage. It’s also unusual in that its flowering months take place across the winter period, offering visual interest during a time when not much else is in bloom. The plant is evergreen and should ideally be grown in alkaline soil and part shade. 12) Foxgloves BOTANICAL NAME: Digitalis purpurea PLANT TYPE: BIENNIAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE Perhaps one of the most instantly recognisable flowers, foxgloves are native to the United Kingdom and much of Europe. There are few gardens where foxgloves would look out of place and their flowers produce an incredible amount of pollen for bee species, making them a wildlife-friendly addition to any space. Despite their exotic appearance, they tolerate most conditions and are incredibly hardy, surviving temperatures of up to -20°C. Expect them to flower in summer before producing a prolific number of seeds. Deadhead them after flowering to prevent an excess of foxglove plants in future years. 13) Common Wayfaring Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Viburnum lantana PLANT TYPE: SHRUB FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE The Common Wayfaring Tree is not usually grown as a tree but as a shrub here in the UK. It has small white bushy flowers which emerge in spring and summer, before producing inedible dark red/black berries and losing its foliage over the colder months. Within 20 years it will likely have grown to its eventual height of between 3-4m. 14) Columbine BOTANICAL NAME: Aquilegia vulgaris PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H5 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE These bushy plants have nodding, often very colourful flowers which first make an appearance in spring. Aquilegia is often found at high altitudes, making it an ideal fit for alpine gardens. The plant is prone to downy mildew and any affected foliage should be cut away and disposed of carefully.1 If the infection persists the area should be rested for at least a year to allow any soil contamination to pass naturally. 15) Ragged Robin BOTANICAL NAME: Lychnis flos-cuculi PLANT TYPE: BIENNIAL / PERENNIAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH; DAMP SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE Ragged robin is ideal for any damp or waterlogged areas of your garden (including near ponds) that may otherwise be difficult to grow in. It is best grown separately from other wildflowers, especially those which are thuggish and may inhibit its growth.2 White-flowering varieties are also available to grow. 16) Wood Anemone BOTANICAL NAME: Anemone nemorosa PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING HARDINESS RATING: H5 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE This wildflower is commonly found in ancient woodland (hence the name) where it has a mat-forming habit and produces flowers with vibrant white petals and yellow stamens. Replicating woodland conditions is vital to helping this plant grow well – so place it somewhere with partial shade and moist soil. Correct care will yield stunning flowers between March and May. 17) Viper’s Bugloss BOTANICAL NAME: Echium vulgare PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL / ANNUAL FLOWER FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN Known for its upright spikes and glowing blue flowers which were thought to resemble a viper.3 In its native habitats of moorland and grassland in the UK, this incredibly hardy plant is a favourite of bees and other pollinators when it flowers in summer. Position it in full sun and a well-draining growing medium for ideal conditions. 18) Ox-Eye Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Leucanthemum vulgare PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE With more than a passing resemblance to the common daisy, this larger plant can grow to a height of up to 1m. As a British native it can withstand even the harshest of conditions, making it one to grow in even the most exposed areas of your garden. It is most easily propagated by sowing seed indoors in the autumn and planting out the following spring. 19) European Buckthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Rhamnus cathartica PLANT TYPE: SHRUB / TREE FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H7 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE Buckthorn is native to Europe, much of Africa and Western Asia. It is a deciduous shrub (or sometimes a small tree) which is very easy to grow in most gardens. In spring it produces yellow flowers which turn to dark, inedible berries around autumn time.4 Though it is fine to grow here in its native habitat in the UK, European Buckthorn is considered an invasive species in the USA, where it has out-competed many native plant species since its introduction hundreds of years ago.5 20) Fieldrose BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa arvensis PLANT TYPE: SHRUB FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER HARDINESS RATING: H5 SOIL: ANY TYPE; NEUTRAL PH SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE A thorny, rambling shrub, Rosa arvensis produces beautiful cream-coloured flowers with golden stamen. It is extremely tolerant of various growing conditions making it ideal for use as a hedgerow or perhaps a shady (often neglected) corner of the garden. It is usually grown from bare root which can be easily transported during the plant’s dormant season in the winter months. Bloom Britannia While we live in an age where plants and flowers from around the world are within our reach, often at a moment’s notice, there’s something especially satisfying about keeping traditional British plants at the heart of our garden displays. “Whilst we don’t have as many native plants as many parts of the world (hence our love of the exotic), many UK natives or their cultivated forms are garden classics,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are particularly suited, but by no means limited to, the cottage garden style.” Not as some lazy token of patriotism, nor as a slight on the botanical offerings of other countries; but rather as a reminder of our rich and beautiful floral heritage. Native flowers also offer a range of benefits to our native wildlife – including bees and other pollinators. So, whether you opt for an all-British display, a mainly-British display, or use the odd British flower here and there as an anchor in something more exotic, we hope you’ve found inspiration in this article. And should the twenty flowers above not tickle your fancy, remember that there are plenty more native British flowers ripe and ready for being grown in your garden. In this selection we covered a range of shapes and colours, but by no means is our list exhaustive. References 1. Aquilegia Downy Mildew. (n.d.). Hardy Plant Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.hardy-plant.org.uk/resources/miscellaneous-articles/Aquilegia-Downy-Mildew 2. Ragged-Robin. (n.d.). The Wildflower Garden. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://plantlife.love-wildflowers.org.uk/wildflower_garden/grow_in_the_garden/ragged_robin 3. Viper’s-bugloss. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/wildflowers/vipers-bugloss 4. Rhamnus cathartica. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/14452/rhamnus-cathartica/details 5. Common or European Buckthorn. (n.d.). Minnesota Department of Agriculture. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants/pestmanagement/weedcontrol/noxiouslist/commonbuckthorn
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Work With The Clay (Not Against It) - Here Are 20 Plants That Love Clay Soils
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Fuchsia 2) Laurustinus 3) Lady’s Mantle 4) Rose 5) Juneberry 6) Climbing Hydrangea 7) Hardy Geranium 8) Greater Masterwort 9) Dogwood 10) Hosta 11) New England Aster 12) Willow Leaved Pear 13) Birch 14) Swamp Cypress 15) Barberry 16) Checkerberry 17) Creeping Juniper 18) Yellow Deadnettle 19) Japanese Rose 20) Chinese Silver Grass Gardening on clay soil can have its challenges and limitations, so why not embrace it and grow plants that will thrive in clay conditions, rather than battle against it? If your garden is on clay soil, you probably already know that it can be rather hard work to work with. Clay soil tends to feel slightly sticky to the touch and can become bone hard in the hottest months and waterlogged during the rainy season, but it can also be very fertile. Clay soils should always be improved by adding organic matter such as composted bark, well-rotted manure or garden compost either lightly worked into the soil or left as a mulch for the worms to incorporate into the layer beneath. As well as continually improving the soil, it’s also best to grow plants that positively love clay soils. We’ve put together a selection of plants that will embrace clay soil and thrive, rather than limp along sulkily. 1) Fuchsia RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Swingtime’, ‘Pink Marshmallow’, ‘Lady Boothby’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: VARIES PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Fuchsias are popular here in the UK for good reason. Hardy fuchsias are reliably hardy and can survive temperatures of down to -10°C. They can be deciduous or evergreen shrubs that grow well in clay soils and come in a wide range of colours from cool white and pink to vibrant red and purple. The flowers are stunning in their pendant form and can be either single or double. Usually smallish shrubs, they are perfect for most gardens, though some can grow very large. Fuchsias like to be planted in moist and fertile soil and prefer full sun or part shade. They require a sheltered spot, so it’s best to avoid a windy and exposed site. Bees love their flowers and fuchsias are included in the RHS plants for pollinators selection. Fuchsia ‘Lady Boothby’ is a vigorous variety producing vibrant red and purple flowers from June until September. It is perfect for the back of a border, growing up to H4m x W1.5m. “Once an established framework of woody stems has developed, it’s best to prune these hardy Fuschias back to that framework in early to mid-spring as they flower on new growth,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “This pruning method prevents the shrubs from becoming tangled and leggy and keeps the growth fresh and producing lots of flowers.” 2) Laurustinus BOTANICAL NAME: Viburnum tinus PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Viburnum tinus or ‘laurustinus’ as it is sometimes known, is a large evergreen shrub which produces wonderful clusters of pink buds which turn to white flowers in late winter. It can be grown as a hedge, but is often used as a specimen shrub in a border. V. tinus will grow in any moist, but well-drained soil. An adaptable and hardy shrub, it will grow in either full sun or shade, but prefers a sheltered spot away from cold winds. Potentially growing up to H4m x W4m over time it can be kept to size through annual pruning in spring after flowering. For a smaller variety, V. tinus ‘Eve Price’ is still a sizeable shrub and will eventually reach H2.5m x H2.5m. “Viburnum tinus is particularly prone to Viburnum beetle larvae eating the foliage and causing a foul smell,” adds Roy. “Biological control nematodes are available for this beetle, applied by watering onto the affected plant. Alternatively, an organic pesticide spray can be used between late April and early May to eradicate this pest.” 3) Lady’s Mantle BOTANICAL NAME: Alchemilla mollis PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST More commonly known as Lady’s mantle, Alchemilla mollis is a herbaceous and clump-forming perennial. With light green leaves, it produces frothy yellow flowers extending above the foliage during the summer. Growing to roughly H.5m x W.5m it will tolerate any soil, including clay. It’s a hardy and tough plant and will happily self-seed if you let it. Perfect as ground cover or at the front of a border it will even happily grow in shade, as well as full sun. Perfect in a cottage garden scheme or for softening hard landscaped edges. Being perennial, it will die back over winter, but if cut back after flowering it will produce fresh new growth and even flower again later in the summer. “This mid-summer removal of flowered stems and leggy leaves really improves the appearance of the plant, which becomes quite tatty looking after flowering in early summer,” shares Roy. “The fresh growth coming later often stays looking good until the first frosts.” 4) Rose BOTANICAL NAME: ROSA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Aloha’, ‘Champagne Moment’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER, RAMBLER OR SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: OFTEN H6 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Roses are often the summer show stopper of a British garden and thrive in clay soils due to the excellent range of nutrients available in healthy soils of this type, but may struggle if the roots become waterlogged due to poor drainage. Drainage in heavy clay soils can be improved as mentioned earlier, by adding organic matter to the soil. From small patio varieties to larger shrubs and climbers there is a rose for every garden. Roses tend to love as much sun as they can get, but thankfully there are some varieties that don’t mind receiving a little less. English shrub rose ‘Harlow Carr’ is one such rose and will happily cope with partial shade. It produces the most perfect pink scented flowers on a bushy habit, ideal for a border or container it grows to 0.9m in height and 0.9m wide. A repeat flowering rose, it will bloom from early summer right through until the autumn if deadheaded. 5) Juneberry BOTANICAL NAME: Amelanchier lamarckii PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Better known as the snowy mespilus or juneberry, Amelanchier lamarckii are deciduous shrubs or small trees. They are a great choice for any garden as they produce beautiful delicate white flowers in spring, good autumnal foliage and berries. A. lamarckii will grow in clay, loam or sandy soil, in either full sun or part shade. Growing to an eventual size of H12m x W8m, they need to have room to flourish. It is possible however to prune the trees to keep them to a smaller size of 3-4m, with perhaps a single stem for effect. Easily available here in the UK; they can be bought as single stem or multi-stem trees and as a bush. It is a wonderful tree or shrub to attract wildlife into your garden as birds love to eat the berries it produces. Having proven to perform reliably well, it has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit (AGM). 6) Climbing Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Mirranda’ PLANT TYPE: CLIMBING SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST If you are looking for a climber that is happy in clay soil then the climbing hydrangea or H. anomala subsp. petiolaris is definitely worthy of consideration. A self-clinging climber, it produces large white flower heads up to 20cm across between May and June. Tolerating clay soil, it can grow to an excess of H12m x W8m. It is an extremely versatile climber which will grow in either full sun or part-shade and can even cope with a shady north-facing wall. Having proven to perform reliably well it has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit (AGM). 7) Hardy Geranium RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Mavis Simpson’, ‘Orion’, ‘Rozanne’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6-H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Hardy geraniums or cranesbill geraniums are generally very easy to grow, tolerating all but the heaviest clay soils and being waterlogged. Requiring minimal maintenance, they can bloom for months on end during the summer months and brighten up any border. As a perennial, they will die back after the first frost with new growth appearing in spring. Generally hardy geraniums will grow in full sun to part shade and do best in a moist, but well-drained soil. If there was one to grow it must be G. ‘Rozanne’. Growing to H0.6m x W0.6m it is perfect for a border or container and produces masses of violet-blue flowers from June until the autumn if deadheaded. 8) Greater Masterwort BOTANICAL NAME: Astrantia major PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Astrantia or Hattie’s pincushion as they are sometimes known, are a group of summer flowering herbaceous perennials. They produce stunning star-shaped flowers in cream, pink, red and purple. Tolerating full sun, but preferring part shade, they will grow in clay or loamy soils as long as they are not allowed to dry out. Growing to a maximum of H1m x W0.5m they are well suited to a border or a pot and will bloom from June through to August. 9) Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: CORNUS RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Flaviramea’, ‘Elegantissima’, ‘MIDWINTER FIRE’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6-H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Better known as dogwoods, cornus are a group of deciduous shrubs. Often grown for winter interest, some have wonderful stem colour to brighten up a border on a winter’s day and others are grown for their pollinator-friendly flowers. The dogwoods grown for winter interest include C. alba, C. sericea and C. sanguinea and are very tolerant of heavy clay soils and will often do well where other plants have failed. C. alba ‘Sibirica’ is a great variety that produces stunning red stems that turn almost crimson during the winter and cream flowers in early summer. Growing to H2.5m x W2.5m it prefers a sunny or part shaded spot and moist, but well-drained soil. Originating from Siberia, it is naturally hardy and is a great shrub to add some winter colour to the borders. “In order for Dogwoods to produce these colourful stems, established plants should be hard pruned in late winter or early spring followed by a feed and mulch,” Roy explains. 10) Hosta BOTANICAL NAME: HOSTA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Halcyon’, ‘Patriot’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST Originating from Japan and China, hostas are easy to grow and are mainly favoured for their beautiful foliage. There are many to choose from, varying in leaf colour, size and shape and most flower on tall stems rising above the foliage. In general, hostas are happiest in the shade and are perfect in a container or a border. Some varieties are more tolerant of sun than others so it worth checking before you buy. Once planted, hostas tend to look after themselves, only requiring deadheading and their dead foliage removed in winter. As a perennial, new foliage will emerge in the spring. They are however, a favourite of slugs and snails! Wool pellets or copper rings around the base of the plants are advised for protection, particularly as new foliage emerges. “It’s an ongoing battle to prevent slugs and snails from eating hosta leaves, which is a pity as they are mainly grown for their foliage,” Roy says. “Additional methods of protection are choosing a resistant cultivar, watering slug nematodes into the soil, placing sheep’s wool around the base of the plant and lastly spraying a garlic solution at regular intervals – a method recommended by Hosta growers! “Hostas are considered hardy here in the UK and prefer fertile and moisture-retentive soil.” 11) New England Aster BOTANICAL NAME: Symphyotrichum novae-angliae RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Helen Picton’, ‘James Ritchie’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST Asters flower late in the season, generally from September to November, and provide colour in ranges of pink, blue and purple to garden borders that are otherwise starting to run out of steam. 12) Willow Leaved Pear BOTANICAL NAME: Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’ PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Often known as a Weeping Pear, this is a great specimen tree which can be pruned to an umbrella shape. It is covered in white blossoms in spring. 13) Birch BOTANICAL NAME: BETULA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Jermyns’, ‘Red Panda’ (Pictured), ‘Snow Queen’ PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY There are a number of Birch trees with attractive bark which stand out in the winter, ranging from the sparkling white of B. utilis var. jacquemontii to the pinkish-red of B. albosinensis. The only caution is the general lack of drought resistance of these trees due to their shallow root systems. 14) Swamp Cypress BOTANICAL NAME: Taxodium distichum PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: POORLY-DRAINED This tree has bright green, soft, needle-like foliage and produces a bright orange display before losing its leaves in the autumn. It tolerates waterlogged soils and is often planted at the edge of ponds. 15) Barberry BOTANICAL NAME: BERBERIS RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Stapehill’, ‘Georgeii’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Many cultivars of Berberis have brightly coloured foliage, but do require well-drained soil. Watch out for the spiked leaves! 16) Checkerberry BOTANICAL NAME: Gaultheria procumbens PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST This is a low-growing evergreen shrub with glossy leaves and red berries in the autumn which will tolerate shady positions. 17) Creeping Juniper BOTANICAL NAME: Juniperus horizontalis RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Wiltonii’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: VERY WELL DRAINED A low-growing, spawling Juniper which forms a ground cover with blue-green needles. It is good for dry soils or banks. 18) Yellow Deadnettle BOTANICAL NAME: Lamium galeobdolon PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST A perennial with buttery-yellow flowers that spread easily (often too easily and can become a nuisance), forming ground cover in shady areas. 19) Japanese Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Kerria japonica RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Golden Guinea’, ‘Flore Pleno’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY The Japanese rose is a deciduous shrub with attractive double yellow flowers which can brighten up the shady corners of a garden. 20) Chinese Silver Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Miscanthus sinensis PLANT TYPE: GRASS HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY The large range of cultivars of this grass produce a variety of coloured golden, pink and purple plumes which stand over winter when other perennials have faded away. If you garden on clay, improving the soil can go a long way, hopefully allowing you to grow a wider range of plants. However, there are some plants, as above, that love fertile clay soil, so why not embrace what you have got and work with it, rather than against it?
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15 Knockout Trees With Foliage That Turns Red In Autumn
IN THIS GUIDE Why Do Leaves Turn Red In Autumn? 1) Japanese Maple 2) Japanese Rowan 3) Forest Pansy 4) Snowy Mespilus 5) Stag’s Horn Sumach 6) Katsura Tree 7) Sweet Gum 8) Flowering Dogwood 9) Sorrel Tree 10) Red Oak 11) Tupelo 12) European Spindle 13) Cherry ‘Royal Burgundy’ 14) Golden Full Moon Maple 15) Tall Stewartia Added Considerations Take It As ‘Red’ References In the US it’s not unusual for people to make a seasonal pilgrimage to see the ‘fall colours’ – so renowned are their beauty. The sudden shift of millions of trees from their summer green to autumn red foliage draws onlookers from around the country, including people who for the rest of the year would scarcely bat an eyelid at the beauty of the natural world. Truly a sight to behold In the UK it’s not such a tourist attraction, mainly because there aren’t really any parts of the country where large numbers of trees are in sparse supply. But there’s no denying that the autumnal medley of red is a sight worth seeing. That’s why we’ve pulled together some fantastic trees whose foliage turns red in the UK autumn. Whether you use this list to plan a woodland walk so you can catch the turning colours as autumn sets in, or you use it to advise which trees to plant in your garden, we hope that these trees give you the chance to experience something beautiful. Why Do Leaves Turn Red In Autumn? Before we launch into the list, here’s a little intro to why some leaves turn red when others don’t. The first thing to note is that chlorophyll, the chemical famously involved in photosynthesis, absorbs red and blue light, meaning that the green part of the spectrum is reflected back. This is why most plants usually look green.1 In the autumn, certain plants use the excess sugar leftover from homeostasis to create anthocyanins.2 This chemical produces a pigment that reflects the red part of the spectrum, creating vivid displays of colour that vary depending on the levels of anthocyanin and chlorophyll: a deep red leaf will have much more of the former, where an orange leaf will have more of a combination of the two.3 With the science out of the way, let’s take a look at some autumn trees that turn red in the UK. 1) Japanese Maple BOTANICAL NAME: Acer palmatum HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 4M x 8M While the name is distinctly un-British, the Japanese Maple grows a treat in our climate. Whether in the ground or in a container this tree will burst into a busy and beautifully coloured bloom as the summer begins to dwindle. We particularly like the flexibility the Japanese maple affords gardeners. If you’re lucky enough to have a large outdoor space you can plant this in the ground and enjoy the gradual growth into a full-sized tree, whereas if you’re working with a smaller space, you can have a smaller plant thriving in a container. The tree is easy to take care of, too: just give a little mulch in spring, fertilise occasionally, and you’ll probably get away with minimal pruning or training as well. 2) Japanese Rowan BOTANICAL NAME: Sorbus commixta HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M Another plant whose name hails from the famous Asian island nation, the Japanese Rowan sports red berries in autumn followed by a rich and distinctly autumnal bloom. As with the Japanese Maple this plant can be grown as a tree or a shrub depending on the space you have available, affording a good amount of flexibility to a range of gardeners. Japanese rowan is most often bought as a single stem tree which will give rise to a much larger one as the years go by. In the ground the maximum size is about 8×12 metres, achieved over a period of twenty years or more. In a container, you should expect smaller growth, with the exact eventual dimensions determined by the size of the pot. For healthiest growth choose a spot with full sun or partial shade, in any aspect. Soil acidity should be acidic or neutral, and try to avoid chalky soil if possible. 3) Forest Pansy BOTANICAL NAME: Cercis canadensis HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 4M x 8M Before you double-check that you’re reading an article about trees that turn red, let us clarify: this plant, Cercis canadensis, is different from the Viola family of flowers, many of which are commonly known as pansies. So, instead of the delightfully colourful flowers you’ll find in many a British garden, the forest pansy is a small tree that is renowned for its striking foliage. In spring and summer you can expect rich purple leaves, giving way to a wonderful yellow as they begin to fall. This plant is interesting for fading out of redness in the autumn, rather than into it. Grown near plants that follow the opposite pattern, the shifting palettes of colour can create a striking effect. For best results grow in full sun or partial shade, in a south- or west-facing aspect. You can expect an eventual size of about 8x10m, achieved over a period of about twenty years. 4) Snowy Mespilus BOTANICAL NAME: Amelanchier lamarckii HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M This tree goes by a few names: you may also see it called Snowy mespilus, juneberry, or Amelanchier lamarckii. Whatever you call it; this is a great choice for gardens that need that little lift of autumnal colour. The snowy-white floral bloom in spring gives way to red fruit in summer and deep orange-red leaves in the autumn. This is one of our faves thanks to the sheer variety of colours on offer throughout the year. The berries of this tree are edible, too, if you’re feeling adventurous. They’re part of a subset of berry that don’t enjoy enough fame and familiarity to make their way onto the supermarket shelves, but which are a tasty treat nonetheless. Again a testament to what an appealing tree this is to have growing in your garden! In terms of conditions, the juneberry tree likes full sun or partial shade, isn’t fussy in terms of aspect, and prefers acidic or neutral soil. Avoid prolonged exposure to excessive moisture. 5) Stag’s Horn Sumach BOTANICAL NAME: Rhus typhina HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 8M Here’s another plant with several names: also keep an eye out for rhus, velvet sumac, and vinegar tree. The stag’s horn sumach is renowned for its red autumnal display; to the degree that it’s one of the main reasons gardeners choose to grow it. “Rhus typhina is a spreading tree, sprouting from its roots and gradually moving to favourable locations,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist Consultant with an array of gardening experience. “The good news is that stems arising where they aren’t wanted can easily be cut back at the base and thickets thinned to provide a multi-stemmed tree. “Planted in a prairie-style planting, Rhus typhina can add height and volume to the planting, creating a late highlight of red foliage colour in the planting as the late perennial flowers fade.” We also like this one for the intriguing floral clusters they display in spring and summer: the configuration and colour is unusual and striking, bringing something distinctive to your garden before the autumn bloom sets in. Part of choosing the right tree for your garden is going for something that performs more than one function. With the amelanchier you get the novelty of an edible berry each for a few weeks each year. With the plants further up this list you get the quintessential autumn bloom. And with stag’s horn sumach, you get two distinct seasons of visual interest, making this a plant with a lot to offer to the discerning gardener. This tree thrives in full sun, but take care to avoid a north-facing aspect. Any soil acidity should be OK, and it will do well exposed or in shelter. 6) Katsura Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Cercidiphyllum japonicum HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 8M x 12M 7) Sweet Gum BOTANICAL NAME: Liquidambar styraciflua HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 8M x 12M 8) Flowering Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus kousa HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 4M x 8M 9) Sorrel Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Oxydendrum arboreum HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 10M 10) Red Oak BOTANICAL NAME: Quercus rubra HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 12M x 8M 11) Tupelo BOTANICAL NAME: Nyssa sylvatica HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M 12) European Spindle BOTANICAL NAME: Euonymus europaeus HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 4M x 4M 13) Cherry ‘Royal Burgundy’ BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus ‘Royal Burgundy’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M 14) Golden Full Moon Maple BOTANICAL NAME: Acer shirasawanum ‘Aureum’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 8M 15) Tall Stewartia BOTANICAL NAME: Stewartia monadelpha HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL SIZE (W X H): 6M x 12M Added Considerations When looking for a beautiful burst of red in autumn, there’s more to consider than just choosing plants and trees that turn red. You also need to remember that – Sunlight is important! Just as plants need sunlight to grow, the gentle rays encourage the reddening of the leaves in the autumn months. A plant in full sun or partial shade will have a much more impressive red display than one lurking in full shade. The soil needs to be within the correct pH range. As with sunlight, ensuring a plant has its needs satisfied when it comes to soil acidity will pave the way for the brightest red displays. You shouldn’t over-fertilise. Ease off on fertilising and watering your trees as autumn sets in, because over-feeding them will interrupt the colourful display. Take It As ‘Red’ While the fall colours in New England and other famed landscapes of America may be a sight to behold, red foliage is far from exclusive to these regions. In the UK we’re blessed to be in much closer proximity to our areas of outstanding national beauty, and even if you don’t want to make a holiday out of it, there are plenty of options to bring the illustrious red autumn bloom right into the comfort of your own back garden. In this article we’ve spotlighted fifteen trees with red leaves in autumn, but there are many more to choose from. So whether you’re a gardener with space for many trees in your ample backyard, or a gardener deciding which tree to plant in the one container you can fit on your small balcony, you’ve got plenty of options. With young trees available to buy online and from many garden centres, you don’t need to wait years and years for the fruits of your labour to pay off, either. We hope you enjoyed this article, and that you are soon enjoying the rich medley of red in your very own garden. References 1. Why are plants green? (2021, October 27). John Innes Centre. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.jic.ac.uk/blog/why-are-plants-green/ 2. Klein, J. (2016, October 25). Why Does Fall Foliage Turn So Red and Fiery? The New York Times. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/26/science/leaves-fall-foliage-colors-red.html 3. Why Leaves Turn Red. (n.d.). Harvard Forest. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://harvardforest.fas.harvard.edu/sites/default/files/leaves/2002_11_leaf_article.pdf
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