Growing
Damsons Are Often Overlooked - Why You Should Grow This Fruit Tree In Your Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Damsons Damson Tree Care Harvesting Common Problems References Damsons are the purple gems of top fruit, not dissimilar to plums, but with smaller and more oval-shaped fruits. The damson trees upon which the fruit is grown produce a wonderful blossom in the spring, with the fruits being ready to harvest late summer to early autumn. Damson trees take a long time to mature and produce a harvest, but when they do it is so worth it. Overview Botanical Name Prunus insititia Common Name(s) Damson Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area Origins Unknown Hardiness Rating H5/H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White spring blossoms When To Plant January, February, March, November, December Flowering Months April Harvesting Months August, September, October When To Prune June, July Damsons, or Prunus insititia, are small, purple-coloured stony fruits grown here in the United Kingdom for their culinary uses and spring blossom. They are often, rather sadly overlooked by the common plum and are grown on small trees and crop only once a year in late summer to early autumn. Commonly grown varieties include Farleigh Damson AGM, Shropshire Damson and ‘Merryweather’ (pictured above). How To Grow Damsons Damsons are produced on trees and ready to harvest from August to October in the UK. They will come true from a saved stone, but you could be waiting many years for the tree to mature and bear fruit. Most damsons are self-fertile and do not require another nearby. Damson trees are readily available from online fruit tree suppliers and most often purchased as a bare root tree, grafted onto a specific rootstock to control its growth. Bare root simply means that it comes with no soil around its roots and is thus easier and cheaper to transport. Potted trees can be available but at an added cost. The fruit tree planting season here in the UK is between November and March, when the trees are dormant. Where To Grow Damson trees are most commonly planted directly in the ground. However, they can be available grown on a dwarf ‘pixie’ rootstock that can be grown successfully in a large pot or container. Tree shapes can include, standard, half-standard and dwarf – some specialist fruit growers even offer damsons as columns, step overs or even fan trained ready to be grown against a wall. The rootstock they are grown on decides their mature height and spread so it is wise to check this before purchasing, as there is nothing more frustrating than the fruit being out of reach. Damson trees are happiest in full sun and a relatively sheltered position; south or west-facing is ideal. Planting Planting a bare root tree is no more difficult than planting a root-balled tree. Ideally, a bare root tree should be planted swiftly on arrival to avoid it drying out. However, this may not be possible due to the ground being frozen or covered in snow; if this is the case store the tree with the polythene around its roots in a cool place like a garage or shed. The main thing is not to let the root system dry out and so avoid putting it anywhere near a heat source. To plant: Dig a hole at least as deep as the roots and up to twice as wide. If the soil is hard break up the base and sides of the hole with a garden fork. Drive in the tree stake close to where the main stem will be. Add some fertiliser and lower the tree into the hole, gently spread out the roots and make sure that it is planted at the same depth as it was previously. Backfill around the roots so the soil is level with the surrounding soil, gently press the soil down to eliminate any air gaps around the roots. Water well and top up the soil if it subsides. If planting against a wall, it is good to be aware that the adjacent area is often very dry, so it is recommended to plant the tree approximately 30-40cm away from the wall. Damson Tree Care Watering Newly planted trees need watering for the first 2 years, especially during the spring and summer. Water to the base of the tree, slowly so it can be absorbed. Unless you are in an urban area place a tree guard around the stem to protect the tree from rabbits and deer as they love to eat the bark. Tie in the tree to the stake with a suitable rubber tree tie to help protect it and keep it vertical in strong winds. The stake and tie can be removed once established, usually after 2 years. Pruning Damsons are classed in RHS pruning group 1 and require annual pruning in the spring or early summer.1 It is important not to prune a damson during the winter as this can make them susceptible to silver leaf disease. Pruning methods usually depend on their form and habit. Harvesting Damson blossom signals that spring has arrived – their blossom is a wonderful sight with single, small white flowers. Damsons are reliable croppers producing a bountiful harvest for years to come, unless a late frost damages the blossom. If using the fruits for cooking or making jam it is best to wait until the fruits are soft to the touch and a deep purple, usually from August onwards. If you plan to make gin with them, then the fruits can be picked slightly earlier when slightly firm. Common Problems Aphids The two most common types of aphids that are attracted to damson trees are leaf-curing and mealy plum aphids. The leaf-curling aphid affects the foliage during spring leading to leaf distortion and the mealy plum aphid which although does not distort the foliage, leaves a sticky honey dew allowing sooty mould to grow. Check the trees regularly from spring onwards as once any leaves have been distorted by the leaf-curling aphid there is little that can be done. Non-pesticidal control can include encouraging predators such as ladybirds, hoverflies and parasitoid wasps, as well as squishing by hand. Pesticidal controls can include using a plant oil wash in winter, fatty acid and oil sprays and insecticides if infestations are severe. Brown Scale Brown scale are insects that are found on the woody parts of damson trees. Small infestations can be tolerated with minimal consequences, but if large infestations occur, they can lead to decreased vigour and growth. Controls for brown scale are the same as for aphids as above. Plum Moth The plum moth can affect damson trees and can lead to caterpillars eating the damson fruit. The caterpillars are pale pink in colour and are small, only 1cm long. Usually only the first fruits are affected and ideally should be tolerated as only a small proportion of the crop are afflicted. Non-pesticidal approaches could include encouraging natural predators. Pheromone traps that entice the males can be hung in the tree in May, these do not control the numbers but can give a good indication if further action is needed.2 Organic insecticides with natural pyrethrin as the main ingredient can give effective, but short-lived control. For more persistent infections an insecticide such as deltamethrin or cypermethrin may be applied. It is important to note that trees should not be sprayed whilst in flower to avoid any danger to pollinators. “One good organic control for many damson pests and diseases is to collect affected fruits and leaves as soon as you notice them,” adds Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “If you don’t want to have a fire to burn these leaves, I suggest adding them to your household waste or taking them to your local council waste recycling centre and disposing of them in the green waste. “It is important not to try and compost it at home as you will be unlikely to build up the temperatures to kill the pests and diseases that council composting will.” References 1. Shrubs and trees: light pruning. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/trees/trees-shrubs-light-pruning 2. Pheromone trapping. (2022, February 14). Forest Research. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/tools-and-resources/fthr/pest-and-disease-resources/oak-processionary-moth-thaumetopoea-processionea/opm-manual-9-pheromone-trapping/
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These 15 Shrubs That Flower In Summer Are Colin Skelly's Top Picks
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Hydrangea 2) Lavender 3) Buddleja 4) Rose 5) Ceanothus 6) Cistus 7) Deutzia 8) Daphne 9) Olearia 10) Fuchsia 11) Hibiscus 12) Salvia 13) Spirea 14) Escallonia 15) Potentilla With some careful planning, shrubs can inject a dazzling display of colour, not only throughout the summer, but during the rest of the year as well! With the bonus of being relatively low maintenance, shrubs can provide vibrant hues or calming pastel shades to adorn your garden, along with providing important height and structure. Whether for a contemporary design or a cottage garden there are shrubs to suit. Shrubs come in a plethora of choices, evergreen or deciduous, for ornamental or screening purposes and even scented. The choice is endless, but here are some of the best to inspire you on how to provide stunning colour during the summer months here in the United Kingdom. 1) Hydrangea HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Early Blue’, ‘Vanilla Fraise’, ‘Annabelle’ Hydrangeas, originally from Asia and the Americas, are one of the best all-round shrubs and are widely available in vibrant pinks, cool blues and elegant whites. They grow well in full sun or part shade and need to be kept moist and in a sheltered spot. Hydrangea macrophylla, with classic mophead flowers, are available in pink and blue and will flower from June through to August. Amazingly the colour of their flowers is soil dependent, with acidic soil producing lilac flowers and alkaline soil pink blooms. H. macrophylla ‘Early Blue’ grows to H1.5m x W1.5m and is a wonderful variety showcasing large pale blue flowers that darken as the summer goes on. H. paniculata are a great variety producing pyramid-shaped flowers. H. paniculata ‘Vanilla Fraise’ H. paniculata ‘Vanilla Fraise’ must be a favourite though with its creamy white flowers, which as the summer drifts on, turn a wonderful pink. Definitely one for the back of the border as it can reach H2.5m x W1.5m over time. For a classic white nothing compares with H. arborescens ‘Annabelle’. A potentially large shrub, H2.5 x W2.5m, it can be kept compact through regular pruning. Large white balls of flowers, so big that the stems may need staking, usually appear in July and last for months. A stunning shrub and true favourite. Don’t let hydrangeas dry out though as they are often one of the first to wilt, especially if kept in a pot. “Hydrangeas are hugely popular garden shrubs, and rightly so,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For the price of an annual prune, they will provide blooms from mid to late summer and look good as they fade into autumn. “Keep well mulched to optimise soil moisture. My favourite is H. arborescens and its cultivars, but all of the species are the parents of many worthy garden cultivars.” 2) Lavender HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – JULY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Hidcote’, ‘Munstead’ For a south-facing border or sunny terrace, lavender is a great choice. From the Mediterranean, lavender plants love the sun and heat and are equally at home in a border or a pot. French and Spanish varieties tend to be slightly taller, but are less hardy than the English varieties, needing protection during the cooler months. For this reason, we’d go for an English lavender of which there are many. Lavandula angustifolia or English Lavender will bloom from July to September and attract all manner of pollinators to the garden. Lavender ‘Hidcote’ The classic ‘Hidcote’ (H.5m x W1m) and ‘Munstead’ (H.5m x W1m) varieties both produce wonderfully scented purple flower spikes for weeks on end. Both compact and easily available, ‘Hidcote’ produces a smaller and deeper purple flower compared to the larger & paler ‘Munstead’ flower. Lavender requires free draining soil to thrive and will sulk if left in wet heavy soil over winter. Planting out in spring and adding horticultural grit to the soil mix will give them the best start. 3) Buddleja HARDINESS: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Santana’, ‘Buzz Blue’, ‘Black Knight’ Buddlejas (buddleias) are more commonly known as the butterfly bush due to their insane capability of attracting butterflies. With purple, pink, blue and white conical flowers buddlejas deserve a place in every garden. With careful deadheading they can bloom throughout summer and even though they thrive in almost every spot, they prefer a sunny and dry position. B. davidii ‘Santana’ produces vibrant red-purple panicles up to 50cm long. It can reach H4m x W4m if left to its own devices, but a spring prune will keep it more compact if desired. B. davidii ‘Black Knight’ Buddleia ‘Buzz’ have been bred to stay small and are perfect for a small border or patio pot growing to H1m x W1m. ‘Jazz Blue’ shows off stunning blue flowers all summer long, attracting bees and butterflies to your garden. For a real show stopper, nothing beats B. davidii ‘Black Knight’. A large shrub growing up to H3m x W3m, it is covered with intense deep purple flowers through the summer months. 4) Rose HARDINESS: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – JULY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Gloire du Midi’, ‘Freedom’, ‘Gloire de Guilan’ With roses being one of the broadest groups of plants there’s a rose for every situation. From small varieties such as polyantha and patio to the larger hybrid tea and damask, the choice is endless. Roses thrive in full sun, although some are suited to shade and must be kept well-watered and fed. ‘Gloire du Midi’ is perfect for a patio pot growing only to H.5m x W.5m. Preferring full sun, it produces masses of slightly scented scarlet red flowers for months on end, as it is a repeat flowerer. ‘Gloire du Midi’ Rose Rosa ‘Freedom’, a hybrid tea, displays glorious deep yellow blooms throughout the summer. A vigorous bush type habit, yet only growing to H.8m x W.6m. it will bring life to any border. For an old damask variety, nothing beats ‘Gloire de Guilan’. A large shrub growing to H1.5 x W1m it produces a one-off abundance of double pale pink flowers with good scent. With good disease resistance it is perfect for a sunny or part shaded border. 5) Ceanothus HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: VARIES RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Concha’, ‘Trewithen Blue’, ‘Blue Cushion’ The sun loving Californian lilac or ceanothus can be evergreen or deciduous and their flowers provide a burst of blue in early summer. They require moist, but well-drained soil and will thrive in a sheltered and sunny spot. Ceanothus ‘Concha’ AGM is an evergreen eventually growing to H3m x W3m. With indigo blue flowers it injects some wonderful early summer colour into any garden. Having received the Royal Horticultural Society AGM award, it is proven to perform reliably well in the garden. C. ‘Concha’ If you have the space then C. arboreus ‘Trewithen Blue’ must truly be considered. A vast shrub or small tree, it can grow over time to a gigantic H6m x W8m and is hardy down to -10C. C. ‘Blue Cushion’ is better suited for a smaller position reaching H1m x W2m. Bearing bright blue fluffy flowers in early summer, it is loved by pollinators. 6) Cistus HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – JULY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Gold Prize’ Another sun-loving shrub worthy of including is the cistus or rock rose. Again, from the Mediterranean, it is happiest in a hot dry border and will add lots of colour during the summer months. Available with pink, white or red flowers they are fairly hardy, but may need protection during the coldest weather. Cistus creticus grows to a manageable H1m x W1m and produces vibrant pinky-purple flowers with a yellow centre. Cistus creticus For a larger shrub, C. ladanifer or the gum cistus can reach H2m x W1.5m and displays cool white flowers with a dark red basal stain from June to August. It is hardy down to -10C so should fair well here in the UK except in the harshest of winters. For a variegated option, you could try C. × hybridus ‘Gold Prize’ with its green and gold leaves. Reaching H1.5m x W1.5m it will brighten up a sunny spot with its white flowers with yellow centres. 7) Deutzia HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: APRIL – JULY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Raspberry Sundae’, ‘Nikko’, ‘Strawberry Fields’ Deutzias mainly originated from Asia and are relatively uncommon here in the UK, but are definitely worth considering. They are deciduous shrubs that will adorn your garden with beautiful white or pink star-shaped flowers, which are sometimes scented. Preferring a south or west-facing aspect they require full sun or part shade and shelter away from winds. Deutzia ‘Raspberry Sundae’ is a small compact variety that will grow to only H1m x W1m. D gracilis ‘Nikko’ In early summer stunning pink and white scented flowers appear that can last for weeks. Being deciduous it loses its leaves in winter, but only after turning a lovely auburn colour. D. gracilis ‘Nikko’ is another smaller variety reaching H1m x W1m and produces the most stunning white flowers. Being relatively hardy this variety will withstand temperatures of down to -15C. For a stunning new variety, it is worth considering D. x hybrida ‘Strawberry Fields’. It is one for a larger spot reaching H2m x W2m over time and will dazzle with its pink flowers during June and July. 8) Daphne HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: VARIES RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘ETERNAL FRAGRANCE’, ‘CAROL MACKIE’ The shrubs mentioned above flower during the summer months, but if you are after a shrub that will flower on and on from spring through to autumn then Daphne × transatlantica ‘Eternal Fragrance’ is hard to beat. Suitable for large pots or containers, ‘Eternal Fragrance’ will live up to its name and produce deliciously scented small white flowers. The scent is so good it would be a shame not to put it somewhere you’ll walk past often so you can enjoy it. D. ‘Eternal Fragrance’ This daphne is rather compact and slow-growing reaching H1m x W1m over time. Ideally suited to full sun, it can cope with part shade, but needs to be in a sheltered spot. A word of warning though, daphnes don’t take well to being transplanted, so it’s worth trying to put it in its final position first time round. 9) Olearia HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – AUGUST RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Macrodonta’ 10) Fuchsia HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Whiteknights Pearl’ 11) Hibiscus HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘BLUE BIRD’ 12) Salvia HARDINESS: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – AUGUST RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Hot Lips’ 13) Spirea HARDINESS: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – AUGUST RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘NANA’ 14) Escallonia HARDINESS: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – OCTOBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘LANGLEYENSIS’ 15) Potentilla HARDINESS: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED TYPICAL FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – SEPTEMBER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Medicine Wheel Mountain’, ‘King Cup’ Shrubs can sometimes be thought of as rather municipal or boring, but this doesn’t have to be the case as there are some truly beautiful shrubs that will brighten up any garden over the summer months.
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Plants With Purple Foliage - 'Less Is More' Says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE Top Trees With Purple Leaves 1) Acer palmatum 2) Acer platanoides 3) Betula pendula 4) Cercis canadensis 5) Fagus sylvatica 6) Prunus cerasifera 7) Prunus serrulata 8) Sambucus nigra Top Shrubs With Purple Foliage 9) Berberis thunbergii 10) Cotinus coggygria 11) Corylopsis sinensis 12) Corylus maxima 13) Hebe 14) Loropetalum chinense 15) Pittosporum tenuifolium 16) Rincinus communis 17) Salvia officinalis 18) Weigela florida Perennials With Purple Leaves 19) Actaea 20) Ajuga reptans 21) Anthriscus sylvestris 22) Canna 23) Dahlia 24) Euphorbia dulcis 25) Heuchera 26) Ophiopogon planiscapus 27) Rheum palmatum 28) Sedum telephium Purple-Leaved Edibles For The Vegetable Garden 29) Amaranthus cruentus 30) Atriplex hortensis var. rubra 31) Chenopodium quinoa 32) Cichorium intybus 33) Lactuca sativa 34) Ocimum basilicum 35) Perilla frutescens var. crispa Choosing plants with purple leaves can help break up the green and add interest to your garden. Purple leaves can add drama to a planting scheme, they can break up the verdant hues and help you play around with perspective and draw the eye. “I find that less is more with purple foliage, especially with trees and shrubs,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Used amongst predominantly green foliage, purple can really make an impact and draw the eye. Overuse it and the reverse is true.” They can help you in creating the perfect colour scheme for your space, and in creating diverse and interesting planting schemes – even helping you beautify food-producing spaces. Read on for suggestions of trees, shrubs, perennials and even edible plants with purple foliage. Top Trees With Purple Leaves First of all, consider trees with purple leaves, as these larger plants can often have the most impact. There are a huge range of trees with purple leaves that can work very well in a garden. No matter how large or small your garden may be, you should have no difficulty finding one or more purple foliage trees to suit. Some great trees with purple leaves to consider are: 1) Acer palmatum COMMON NAME(S): JAPANESE MAPLE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Atropurpureum’, ‘Burgundy Lace’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 2) Acer platanoides COMMON NAME(S): NORWAY MAPLE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Crimson King’, ‘Crimson Sentry’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 3) Betula pendula COMMON NAME(S): BIRCH TREE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Purpurea’, ‘Dark Prince’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 4) Cercis canadensis COMMON NAME(S): REDBUD RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Merlot’, ‘Ruby Falls’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 5) Fagus sylvatica COMMON NAME(S): COPPER BEECH RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Atropurpurea’, ‘Purpurea’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 6) Prunus cerasifera COMMON NAME(S): ORNAMENTAL PLUM RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Princess’, ‘Thundercloud’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 7) Prunus serrulata COMMON NAME(S): FLOWERING CHERRY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Royal Burgundy’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 8) Sambucus nigra COMMON NAME(S): ELDER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Black Lace’, ‘Purpurea’, ‘Black Beauty’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 A number of the choices above not only have ornamental appeal, but also produce fruits that can have edible uses. Crab apples, for example, and elderberries, are useful crops that can be used in making preserves, wines, and more. Get the trees right first, and the rest of the planting scheme should follow. Layered planting below your trees with beneficial guild plants can help you make the most of your space, and achieve lush and impressive results. Top Shrubs With Purple Foliage To complement any trees with purple leaves you have planted, you should next consider adding some purple leaved shrubs. Shrubs might be placed below or around your trees, at the back of garden borders, or even included in mixed hedgerows. Consider including some evergreen shrubs with purple leaves as well as some which lose their leaves in winter. The more variety you add to your garden, the better it will be for wildlife, and the more interest there will be throughout the year. Some interesting shrubs with purple leaves to consider are: 9) Berberis thunbergii COMMON NAME(S): BARBERRY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Royal Burgundy’, ‘Bagatelle’, ‘Royal Cloak’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 10) Cotinus coggygria COMMON NAME(S): PURPLE SMOKE BUSH RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Royal Purple’, ‘Velvet Cloak’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 11) Corylopsis sinensis COMMON NAME(S): WINTER HAZEL, WITCH HAZEL RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Spring Purple’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 12) Corylus maxima COMMON NAME(S): PURPLE-LEAVED FILBERT RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Purpurea’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 13) Hebe COMMON NAME(S): HEBE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Burning Heart’, ‘Heartbreaker’, ‘Caledonian’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 14) Loropetalum chinense COMMON NAME(S): CHINESE FRINGE FLOWER / STRAP FLOWER RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Fire Dancer’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 15) Pittosporum tenuifolium COMMON NAME(S): TAWHIWHI RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Tom Thumb’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 16) Rincinus communis COMMON NAME(S): CASTOR OIL PLANT HARDINESS RATING: H2 17) Salvia officinalis COMMON NAME(S): PURPLE SAGE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Purpurascens’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 18) Weigela florida COMMON NAME(S): WEIGELA FLORIDA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Foliis Purpureis’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 Remember, deep, dramatic purple leaves can really stand out amongst lighter green hues. Purple leaved shrubs can make a marvellous backdrop for lighter green, yellowish or silvery foliage. Sometimes, those with cooler hues can help make the garden boundaries recede into the background, and might even make your garden seem larger. Perennials With Purple Leaves Using purple foliage plants in your garden, of course, does not have to end with the trees and shrubs. Some further perennials with purple leaves should also be considered. Some interesting options, for example, are: 19) Actaea COMMON NAME(S): BANEBERRY / BUGBANE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Brunette’, ‘Queen Of Sheba’, ‘Pink Spike’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 20) Ajuga reptans COMMON NAME(S): BUGLE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Atropurpurea’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 21) Anthriscus sylvestris COMMON NAME(S): COW PARSLEY RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Ravenswing’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 “I absolutely cannot live without the common cow parsley,” shares Gardener Tamsin Westhorpe. “It reminds me of my childhood because I had a pony that I would go riding on as a young girl around the country lanes. I always thought that I would get lost, so I would pull bits of cow parsley out of the hedge and make a trail along the road. “I love the look of it, I would never pull it up in my garden and I have this lovely memory of it always getting me home.” 22) Canna COMMON NAME(S): CANNA INDICA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Russian Red’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 23) Dahlia COMMON NAME(S): DAHLIAS RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Magenta Star’, ‘David Howard’, ‘Tally Ho’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 24) Euphorbia dulcis COMMON NAME(S): CHAMELEON RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Chameleon’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 25) Heuchera COMMON NAME(S): CORAL BELLS RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Sugar Berry’, ‘Purple Petticoats’, ‘Fireworks’. HARDINESS RATING: H6 26) Ophiopogon planiscapus COMMON NAME(S): BLACK MONDO GRASS RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Nigrescens’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 27) Rheum palmatum COMMON NAME(S): RHUBARB / Atrosanguineum RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Atrosanguineum’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 28) Sedum telephium RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Xenox’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 Of course, this is by no means a complete list. You could not only plant these and a range of other purple cultivars of perennial flowers, but should also consider many different grasses and sedges to introduce russet, red, bronze and purplish tones into your garden. Of all the options on this list, Heuchera is perhaps one of the most impressive and the most versatile – though any of the plants listed above should be considered if you can meet the right conditions for their growth in your garden. Purple-Leaved Edibles For The Vegetable Garden The largely ornamental plants mentioned above can all really bring interest and drama to your garden. But a garden should ideally be productive and provide yields as well as visual appeal. Fortunately, growing food and giving some space over for vegetable cultivation does not need to mean that you sacrifice aesthetics. A vegetable garden can also be a beautiful space – filled not just with companion plant flowers, but also with visually arresting vegetable varieties and herbs. There are actually a wide range of edible plants with purple leaves to grow in a vegetable garden. For example: 29) Amaranthus cruentus COMMON NAME(S): PURPLE AMARANTH RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Velvet Curtains’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 30) Atriplex hortensis var. rubra COMMON NAME(S): RED ORACH / RED MOUNTAIN SPINACH HARDINESS RATING: H2 31) Chenopodium quinoa COMMON NAME(S): QUINOA BACKGROUND: Leaves often turn purple as they age HARDINESS RATING: H4 32) Cichorium intybus COMMON NAME(S): CHICORY / RADICCHIO RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Palla Rossa’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 33) Lactuca sativa COMMON NAME(S): LETTUCE RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Ruby’, ‘Red fire’, ‘Merlot’, ‘Red Leprechaun’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 34) Ocimum basilicum COMMON NAME(S): PURPLE BASIL RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Dark Opal’, ‘Crimson King’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C 35) Perilla frutescens var. crispa COMMON NAME(S): CHINESE BASIL HARDINESS RATING: H3 There are also many, many Brassica cultivars which have purple leaves. Many varieties of cabbage, kale, cauliflower, broccoli, mustards, tatsoi, pak choi, and kohlrabi can bring vibrant purple hues to your garden. Some of these have a particularly vibrant and arresting purple hue. Redbore kale Remember, too, that these edibles do not have to be relegated to your vegetable plot, you can integrate these with other plants in your garden. Perennial brassicas with purplish leaves, in particular, can be very useful ornamentally as well as for culinary use. Plants with purple leaves can be found on the above list which will suit many different gardens, with many different climates, microclimates and soil types. But of course, when choosing any plants for your garden, you need to think about the conditions where you live. You need to choose the right plants for the right locations.
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From Cedar To Yew - Dan Ori Shares His Favourite Coniferous Tree Types
IN THIS GUIDE Why Grow Coniferous Trees? 1) Cedar 2) Cypress 3) Douglas Fir 4) Fir 5) Hemlock 6) Juniper 7) Larch 8) Monkey Puzzle Tree 9) Pine 10) Spruce 11) Yew References Conifers can be very useful, long-lasting design elements in a garden. They can sometimes be useful features as trees to provide year-round cover. They can be used in hedgerows on their own, or combined with deciduous options in mixed hedgerows. Coniferous trees can also come in dwarf of ground growing varieties, which can be useful in mixed beds or borders, or in pots. Why Grow Coniferous Trees? These trees are useful because they usually keep their needles or thin leaves all year round, and not only improve the appearance of a winter garden but also provide shelter for a range of wildlife. Choosing the right coniferous tree is important – some grow extremely quickly while others are much more slow-growing. Some are neat and compact, while others can tend to take over and will outgrow a smaller garden. Conifers can be good choices due to their density and the privacy they can afford. But it is important to think about the shade they will cast, and their impact on other plants grown nearby. They can be excellent low maintenance garden plants, which often won’t require a lot of your care or effort. Coniferous trees are, quite simply, those which bear cones.1 There are some fantastic (and some not quite so appealing) options to choose. Some fast-growing conifers like the notorious Leyland cypress are not the best choice for most gardens, and are often best avoided. While many conifers work extremely well, even in container gardens and where space is tight, coniferous trees should always be chosen and positioned very carefully. Where conifers are incorporated correctly, they can be very appealing and grace your garden for many years to come. So to help you make the right choice or choices for your garden, here are some conifers which are commonly grown here in Britain: 1) Cedar Cedrus atlantica Cedar, Cedrus, are commonly grown in larger gardens and estates in the UK. Species within this genus are: C. atlantica (Atlas Cedar) C. brevifolia (Cyprus cedar) C. deodara (Himalayan cedar) C. libani (Cedar of Lebanon) These are majestic trees are typically grown as stand-alone specimen trees in larger gardens. But cedars can also be trained as bonsai, and can be grown in pots and shaped to give different effects.2 Those above are ‘true cedars’, but other coniferous trees commonly grown in British gardens are also called cedars. For example: Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar) T. occidentalis (Northern white cedar / eastern arborvitae) Juniperus virginiana (Red Cedar / Eastern Red Cedar) Calocedrus decurrens (Incense Cedar) 2) Cypress Leyland cypress Cypress is the common name for a range of coniferous trees or shrubs in the family Cupressaceae. Some cypress commonly grown on these shores include: Cupressus sempervirens (Mediterranean Cypress / Italian cypress) C. macrocarpa (Monterey Cypress) C. x leylandii (Leyland cypress – a hybrid of the two above) C. arizonica var. glabra (Smooth Arizona cypress) Callitropsis nootkatensis (Nootka Cypress) Cypress (especially Leyland cypress) are particularly common as hedging plants. But it is important to realise that while cypress can be very useful and hardy trees in certain settings, they grow very quickly, and very tall, and so are often not at all the best choice for smaller gardens.3 That said, smaller shaped, topiary and bonsai cypresses can be grown in pots or containers even in the smallest garden. Chamaecyparis are also common evergreen trees or hedging plants in UK gardens. These are known as ‘false cypresses’. Common options for our climate include: Chamaecyparis lawsoniana (Lawson cypress) C. obtusa (Japanese cypress) C. pisifera (Sawara cypress) C. thyoides (Atlantic white cypress) Many different cultivars of these coniferous trees are prized for their variety and are commonly used in horticulture. 3) Douglas Fir The Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) is another common coniferous tree. In spite of its common name it is not actually a fir at all – it is a conifer species in the Pinaceae or pine family. Of course it is a common tree used for Christmas trees and in forestry plantations, but it also has ornamental appeal in large gardens and parks. 4) Fir Nordmann fir True firs (Abies) is a large genus of coniferous trees which offer many options. Common firs grown here include: A. alba (European silver fir) A. balsamea (Hudson fir) A. concolor (White fir) A. fraseri (Fraser fir) A. koreana (Korean fir) A. nordmanniana (Caucasian fir) A. pinsapo (Spanish fir) A. procera (Noble fir) This is another varied collection of coniferous trees which can make impressive full-sized trees, or be cultivated in pots, shaped, and kept much smaller. 5) Hemlock Tsuga canadensis in a pot Hemlock (Tsuga) is another genus of coniferous trees that can offer options for a garden in the UK. Some common choices include: T. canadensis (Eastern Hemlock) T. heterophylla (Western Hemlock) T. mertensiana (Mountain hemlock) Numerous cultivars are great in gardens – they can be slow-growing and attractive conifers for pots, beds or borders. 6) Juniper Common juniper in a container Junipers (Juniperus) are a wide range of coniferous trees and shrubs widely distributed across the Northern hemisphere. UK gardens can choose from many, including: J. communis (Common juniper – a UK native) J. chinensis (Chinese juniper) J. scopulorum (Rocky mountain juniper) J. procumbens (Decumbent juniper – mat forming) J. squamata (Flaky juniper – prostrate shrub) The diverse growing habits of junipers make them extremely useful in many different settings and positions in a garden. 7) Larch Larches (Larix) are a little different to most other conifers because they are not evergreen, but deciduous. They lose their needles in the winter. Some larches to consider for gardens include: L. decidua (European larch) L. gmelinii (Dahurian larch) L. kaempferi (Japanese larch) Pseudolarix amabilis (Golden Larch) Larches in many different sizes, shapes, colours and forms are available for British gardens. 8) Monkey Puzzle Tree Araucaria araucana This enormous evergreen tree is another common option for large gardens. It can grow truly monstrous in size, however, and so may not be a great choice where space is more limited. Though a common sight in gardens, this tree is actually endangered by logging, overgrazing and forest fires in its native South American range.4 It is known by the Latin name Araucaria araucana.5 One interesting thing to note about this tree, commonly grown as an ornamental, is that it also can produce edible seeds (similar to very large pine nuts) which could mean that it has potential as a future food crop – in parts of the UK, for example, where other nut crops do not grow well. Bear in mind though, that you will have to plant a male and a female; these trees do not yield seeds until they are 30 or 40 years old.6 “This is one of my favourite trees to look at and one of my least favourite to work with,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “One issue I have encountered is that raising a nursery tree into a straight single-leader tree can be challenging, so I advise buying as big a tree as your budget allows and let the grower do the hard work. “Other issues are they get big, they can drop limbs if the roots are disturbed or compacted and the leaves are stiff and spiky.” 9) Pine Pinus mugo Pines are another very important category of coniferous tree. Pines of note include: Pinus sylvestris (Scot’s pine – native to parts of Scotland) P. armandi (Chinese white pine) P. cembra (Arolla pine) P. coulteri (Coulter’s pine) P. densiflora (Japanese red pine) P. halepensis (the Aleppo pine) P. heldreichii (Bosnian pine) P. jeffreyi (Jeffrey’s pine) P. montezumae (Montezuma pine) P. mugo (the Mountain pine) P. nigra (European black pine) P. parviflora (Japanese white pine) P. patula (Mexican yellow pine) P. pinaster (Maritime pine) P. peuce (Macedonian pine) P. pumila (Siberian pine) P. radiata (Monterrey pine) P. strobus (Eastern white pine) P. thunbergii (Japanese black pine) P. wallachiana (Bhutan pine) … and more. Pines offer a lot of varied options if you are looking for coniferous trees for your garden. 10) Spruce Picea pungens There are also a lot of spruce (Picea) trees to consider when choosing coniferous trees. Some of the common options to consider include: P. abies (Norway spruce) P. asperata (Dragon spruce) P. breweriana (Brewer’s spruce) P. glauca (White spruce) P. mariana (Black spruce) P. omorika (Serbian spruce) P. orientalis (Caucasian spruce) P. pungens (Blue spruce) P. sitchensis (Sitka spruce) Though there are also many other options to consider if you are looking for more usual conifers to place in your garden. 11) Yew The European yew, Taxus baccata, is another coniferous tree to consider. This is a native evergreen tree, which like so many other conifers on this list, can also be an option for hedging. There are several named cultivars to choose from. These types of coniferous trees commonly grown in Britain should give you a good place to take inspiration when choosing conifers for your garden! References 1. What is a Conifer Tree? (2021, July 1). American Conifer Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://conifersociety.org/conifers/articles/what-is-a-conifer-tree/ 2. Care guide for the Cedar Bonsai tree (Cedrus). (n.d.). Bonsai Empire. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.bonsaiempire.com/tree-species/cedar 3. Leyland cypress trees often planted incorrectly. (2021, September 22). CAES Newswire. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://newswire.caes.uga.edu/story/4006/leland-cypress.html 4. Price, V. (2018, June 25). Six well-known trees surprisingly close to extinction. Global Trees. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://globaltrees.org/news-blog/six-well-known-trees-surprisingly-close-to-extinction/ 5. Mabbett, T. (2019, July 3). Tree of the month: A puzzle of a pine tree. Forestry Journal. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.forestryjournal.co.uk/features/17746316.tree-month-puzzle-pine-tree/ 6. Monkey Puzzle Tree. (2013, February 10). Geograph. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3326641
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8 Expert-Approved Topiary Trees & Bushes For Amazing Garden Shapes
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Topiary Topiary Types 1) Common Yew (Taxus baccata) 2) Thuja (Arborvitae) 3) Privet (Ligustrum) 4) ‘Japanese Hollies’ (Ilex crenata) 5) Honeysuckle (Lonicera) 6) Alberta Spruces (Picea glauca) 7) Wall Germander (Teucrium) 8) Box Wood (Buxus) References Be it a simple ball or cube, or an intricate tiger or motor car, a sculpted tree or hedge grabs your attention. The (very old) art form of topiary has enjoyed something of a resurgence during the past century, and, though crafting representational forms is an acquired skill, you can make simple shapes if you merely choose the right tree or bush. In this guide, we have collaborated with Darren Lerigo, a Topiary Artist based in the UK who is a member of the European Boxwood and Topiary Society and is the founder of Modern Mint. One may define Topiary as the art of sculpting with plants and trees, but just as the sculptor requires the right type of marble or other material, so too does the topiarist need a ’sculptable’ member of the Plant Kingdom. Most are not sculptable at all while a few are more sculptable than some others. The art and technique of this nature-sculpting involves patient, continual, and progressive training, pruning, and clipping of the subject shrub or tree. Though topiary is very much an ‘in thing’ in the British Isles and has been so for decades, it comes down to us from the classical world. Reputedly, the ancient Greeks enjoyed making simple forms and shapes with plant life.1 You too could start off by making simple spherical and conical forms and other geometric shapes before proceeding to more ambitious ‘tree sculptures.’ “For clients’ gardens, we always start with a structure, which is usually in the form of a topiary,” shares Garden Designer Kate Gould. We do know that topiary took off in Rome during the rule of Augustus Caesar.2 One Gaius Matius Calvinus, a horticulturist friend of Julius Caesar and his adopted son Octavian, later Augustus, played the major role in popularising this art form. Quite possibly this art arrived on Anglo-Saxon shores after the Roman conquests during the reign of Claudius Caesar.3 Topiary probably reached its high-water mark in Great Britain at the close of the Seventeenth Century. Historical Knot Garden in Sudeley Castle Grounds During the Tudor and Stuart Periods, hedge mazes and knot gardens, which are advanced forms of topiary, were all the rage in aristocratic gardens. Since the anti-topiary 1740s, this gardener’s art form has had its ups and downs in the British Isles as well as in other European countries.4 Today, its foremost practitioners are the Dutch, French, Italians, Americans, and – of course – the British. Some British nurseries even have a separate department for topiary plants, and a few specialise in hedging and topiary. Ready-to-go boxwood topiaries are – of course – also available. As for the budding topiarist, they can choose from a variety of topiary shears and pruners, and instructional books. Expert-Chosen Topiary “After Boxwood and Yew, which are the two classic plants used for topiary, I love some of the deciduous plants native to the UK,” says Darren. “Hawthorn is great for topiary because it is a fast-growing plant that can cope in our climate, that also gives you blossom in late spring, haws in autumn and, when mature, a twisty trunk full of character. “After a few years of clipping, the branches get knitted together and thorny. This looks brilliant against the sky in winter when the plant is denuded of leaves. “Birch is another plant I’m trying to use,” Darren shares. “Again, you get the bark on the trunk that stands out in winter and then the yellow leaf in Autumn, adding seasonal interest to your garden. “Birch also has this odd branch structure once the leaves have fallen off, which has the appearance of dark buckwheat honey dripping in its own time off a spoon. “I like that and, when made as a topiary, it catches the attention of those that visit the garden. “I am also experimenting with oak as a hedge and as a topiary to see what happens,” explains Darren. “Oak is slow-growing, but we know it supports such a lot of wildlife, so why not use it!” Topiary Types Which ’sculpting material’ should you choose, though? In general, the bush or tree should be evergreen, leaves should be on the small side or be scale-like or needle-like, the bush or tree should exhibit density of branching and density of foliage, and have a ‘tight’ or non-sprawling habit. Over and above that, you need to choose the ‘material’ from the Plant Kingdom that is right for your planned topiary subject. As an obvious example, some bushes lend themselves to shorter, flatter and longer shapes; others to tall and narrow forms. We assist you in selecting the precise tree or bush for the particular garden shape you have in mind. 1) Common Yew (Taxus baccata) Yews rank at Number One because they are tried and tested topiary media for centuries, are still going strong, and possess all the desirable qualities of topiary plants, to which they even add a few of their own. A Yew is very long-lived and so can be a multi-generational heritage, it grows from green wood but also regenerates from brown wood, and its dense foliage typically comprises of needle-like leaves with shades varying from yellow-gold to sparkling, brilliant green. Though a good few Taxus varieties, particularly T. baccata cultivars, make excellent topiary bushes, it is difficult to look beyond T. baccata or Common Yew because of its extraordinary qualities. Where Taxus and Yews are the subject, the varieties are only interesting ‘nice to haves’ for something a little different; for serious topiary it is almost all about Common Yew. Its somewhat springy branches can take tough training just as well as they can withstand pruning and clipping, as the bush is shaped into whatever whimsical shape. An Airborne View of an Old Yew Maze To explain it thus, if a goodly number Thuja varieties are as if made to order for specific shapes, then Common Yew is the lump of clay or the piece of Parian that can reliably be sculpted into anything at all (provided the topiarist is a master). Just as topiary tyros ought to start with Thuja, Topiary’s Rodins and Michelangelos tend to opt for T. baccata. Besides being long-lived, for a bush or a hedge, Common Yew is massive, as it can spread to eight 8m or more and rise to more than 12m with a height of ten being common. If you’d like to build a Stuart Period maze over the next several years, get yourself a few dozen Common Yews. Best for: T. baccata ‘Repens aurea’: Very small sizes, knot gardens Taxus x media ‘Densiformis’: Small sizes, ovoid forms, horizontally elongated shapes T. baccata ‘Standishii’: Small sizes, (mini) spires, spirals T. baccata ‘Semperaurea’: Medium sizes, hexahedrons, representational shapes Taxus x media ‘Hicksii’: Large sizes, mazes, representational shapes T. baccata ‘Fastigiata’: Large sizes, columns, obelisks, spirals T. baccata: Ultra-large sizes, high mazes, representational shapes, anything at all “I have also used Taxus x media ‘Hillii’ to establish low-growing parterre topiary due to its compact and dense qualities,” shares Horticultural Consultant Roy Nicol. 2) Thuja (Arborvitae) Thuja (or Arborvita, incorrectly called ‘Cedar’) varieties fully deserve their lofty ranking because they are ready-made topiaries direct from Mother Nature’s nursery. Decide on the shape(s) you want, choose the appropriate Thuja cultivar(s), and…grab a drink and lie back – it’ll work out by itself. Though – of course – it won’t quite pan out that way, there’s more than a grain of truth to the exaggeration. Particular Thuja grow so naturally into particular shapes that all you need to do is help them along without much planning or clipping – just ideal for the ‘One-Minute Gardener.’ Thuja varieties also possess all the other essentials that make a plant an excellent medium for topiary, from being evergreen to so cold-hardy that some are good for growing in Siberia! Many Thuja Varieties are Perfect for Spirals and Columns Because of the extraordinary abundance of Thuja varieties that are great for topiary, we list each one’s name along with only one shape. Obviously, a variety that is perfect for one shape will also be very good for closely-related forms so we mention one alternate in parens for each variety. It must be mentioned that it would not be reasonable if one were to try to work a Thuja variety into a shape that is in strong conflict with its natural form and habit as this would be working against Nature. Finally, bear in mind that it’s not only about shapes – if one Thuja variety has stunning lime-green foliage, another has equally stunning golden foliage, and yet others will turn flaming orange or bronze-purple in autumn. All the following are T. occidentalis or T. plicata varieties. Each are best for: ‘Danica’: Very small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Amber Glow’: Very small sizes, ovoids (and spheres) ‘Tater Tot’: Very small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’: Small sizes, spheres (and ovoids) ‘Stoneham Gold’: Medium sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Smaragd’: Medium sizes, spires (and spirals) ‘Rheingold’: Medium sizes, ovoids (and boxes) ‘North Pole’: Medium sizes, spires (and columns) ‘Fluffy’: Medium sizes, cones (and pyramids) ‘Janed Gold’: Large sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Polar Gold’: Large sizes, cones (and columns) ‘Degroot’s Spire’: Very large sizes, spires (and spirals) T. occidentalis: Very large sizes, spires (and columns) ‘Irish Gold’: Very large sizes, cones (and pyramids) T. plicata: Ultra-large sizes, narrow pyramids (and columns) ‘Aurea’: Ultra-large sizes, cones (and cylinders) ‘Green Giant’: Ultra-large sizes, cones (and pyramids) 3) Privet (Ligustrum) Privet is virtually synonymous with hedging in view of the ubiquity of privet hedges and because – rightly or wrongly – it is the default choice for hedging and, consequently, simple topiary shapes. Privets are varieties of the Ligustrum genus. Where topiary is concerned one may divide Privets into three broad categories: L. ovalifolium and its cultivars, L. japonicum and its cultivars, and the rest and remainder. The main difference is that L. japonicum and its cultivars have stiff, ‘springy’ branches compared to L. ovalifolium and its cultivars, and the former’s leaves are rounded, waxy and wavy compared to the more ‘normal’ leaves of L. ovalifolium and cultivars. L. ovalifolium varieties have a moderate growth rate while L. japonicum varieties grow more slowly. A Privet Lion at Rhode Island’s Topiary Gardens Both species and their respective cultivars are as tough as nails, and tolerate both, adverse soil conditions and heavy pruning and trimming. Most of them are just hardy enough for almost the entire UK at hardiness H5. Ligustrum varieties offer just about the widest choice in foliage type and foliage colouration among topiary plants. They are most suitable for hedging, hexahedrons, cubes, and also curved shapes. Finally, one of the best privets for intricate topiary comes from the ‘rest and remainder’ of Ligustrum species. This is slow-growing L. delavayanum which is a top choice for representational topiary. Best for: L. japonicum ‘Rotundifolium’: Small sizes, upright ovoids, elongated shapes L. ovalifolium: Medium sizes, hexahedral shapes, cubes, curved shapes L. japonicum: Medium sizes, hexahedral shapes, cubes, curved shapes L. delavayanum: representational topiary For out of the ordinary ‘coloured’ topiary, consider these colourful varieties: L. ovalifolium ‘Aureum’ L. ovalifolium ‘Argenteum’ L. japonicum ‘Variegatum’ L. ibota ‘Musli’ L. undulatum ‘Lemon and Lime Clippers’ 4) ‘Japanese Hollies’ (Ilex crenata) Ilex crenata cultivars vary quite widely in height and spread, and even in habit and form, but before we get to those, let’s look at what they have in common. To begin with, they possess all the desirable qualities of a topiary medium and are super-hardy, being good down to H6. A few I. crenata cultivars are becoming the go-to alternatives to Box Wood, especially for shaped hedging. Japanese Hollies are sometimes attacked by aphids and scale but, unlike the ravages being wreaked on Box Wood, such as blight and box tree moth caterpillar, these plants’ infestations are episodic. Japanese Holly Topiary, Japanese Style! I. crenata typically reaches about 4m with a spread of about 1m while cultivar ‘Convexa’ grows to about 2m with a spread of about one. In between, rising to about three metres is cultivar ‘Fastigiata’ with its name indicating its fastigiate habit. All three have tiny, glossy leaves, which is another tick mark for a topiary plant. All three varieties can bear small white flowers in the summer and black berries in autumn but the topiarist will not be interested in blooms and berries interfering with his geometric shapes. Best for: I. crenata: Large sizes, mazes, tall hedging, geometrical shapes ‘Fastigiata’: Medium sizes, columns, cylinders, obelisks ‘Convexa’: Small sizes, low hedging, boxes, curved shapes “Ilex crenata is a difficult plant to grow well as it demands exacting growing conditions,” says Roy. “For this reason, I recommend it is used by experienced gardeners who can provide these conditions.” 5) Honeysuckle (Lonicera) Lonicera ligustrina var. pileata or Box-Leaved Honeysuckle and Lonicera ligustrina var. yunnanensis or Wilson’s Honeysuckle are ideally suited to topiary. And so much so that perhaps these excellent sculpting plants should rank higher but they are simply not as tried and tested as those ranked above them. All the attributes necessary for a first-class topiary plant are found in spades in these two Lonicera varieties, and they are also fully hardy – Zone H6. They are also tough plants that are tolerant of severe clipping. All this means that you can get ambitious with Lonicera Honeysuckle. Box-Leaved Honeysuckle will Bear Flowers and Berries if you’re not Careful! L. ligustrina var. yunnanensis typically reaches dimensions of 3.5m by 3m while L. ligustrina var. pileata is more compact and more ‘horizontal’ at about 0.75m by 2m. Topiarists may or may not want the added colour of the small summer flowers and autumn berries but the bright green foliage is something they will go for. If one side or end of a topiary Lonicera is not severely trimmed, it will produce flowers. Best for: Medium sizes, intricate shapes, representational forms. 6) Alberta Spruces (Picea glauca) Alberta Spruces, varieties of Picea glauca, are probably the up-and-comers in the Topiary Sweepstakes. As Northern Spruces they are super-hardy. The two cultivars that we recommend are P. glauca var. albertiana ‘Conica’ and P. glauca var. albertiana ‘Alberta Globe’. Both have stiff, needle-like foliage that grows very densely and rather slowly, and they bring that bonus typical of many spruces: invigoratingly fresh-scented foliage. What these two cultivars markedly differ in are their respective sizes and natural shapes. Alberta Spruces are Perfect for these Kinds of Topiaries ‘Conica’ typically attains a height of 2-plus metres and a spread of about one, and makes a natural – surprise! – conical form. ‘Alberta Globe’ grows to a little under 1m in diameter – and we hardly need to spell out its natural shape. If you’re going for cones and spheres, you will not need to exert yourself much with these choices. Look for other Picea varieties that make good topiary media. You can be one of the early adopters of P. glauca ‘Echiniformis’, P. glauca ‘Arneson’s Blue Variegated’, and P. pungens (Glauca Group) ‘Koster’. Best for: ‘Conica’: Medium sizes, cones, pyramids, spirals ‘Alberta Globe’: Small sizes, balls, ovoids, curved shapes 7) Wall Germander (Teucrium) Fully hardy Wall Germander, Teucrium chamaedrys, should not be confused with tender Bush Germander which is a top choice for good-sized topiary ‘statutory’ projects. Unfortunately, it is hardy only to Zone H3 whereas Wall Germander is hardy to H6. This doesn’t mean that the latter should be perceived as a ‘lesser Germander’ for it has its own forte, as does close relative Teucrium × lucidrys or Hybrid Germander which is hardy to Zone H4. A parterre de broderie in a French garden They have a particularly dense bushy habit and this attribute combined with the small leaves and their rich deep hue make them great topiary plants. Both plants emit a pleasant crisp aroma, especially when brushed against, adding to their happy attributes. They grow to only about 30cm and have a similar spread, making them ideal for low designs, including knot gardens, which feature low-slung but long, interwoven, abstract patterns. Best for: Small sizes, low intricate designs, serpentine shapes, knot gardens 8) Box Wood (Buxus) Trusty old Box Wood, this usually being Buxus sempervirens, Buxus microphylla, or one or another of their various cultivars, closes our list just outside the Super Seven. Box Wood would have ranked, and high at that, but over the past several years box blight and box tree caterpillar have been on a cross-country rampage, laying waste to Box in ever-increasing regions in the UK. Therefore, even though Box Wood is one of the most tried and true topiary media, it is probably not a very good choice to begin a new topiary project because, like as not, you’ll be waging a virtually unwinnable, never-ending battle with box blight, box tree caterpillar, or both. Is the Sun Setting for Good on Box Wood? In addition, Box varieties are increasingly being affected by other pests and diseases such as Fluted Scale and Volutella blight. Caveats done, as the long-term traditional automatic pick for hedging and medium-sized topiary as well as being a great option for beginners, Box deserves to be listed with an honourable mention. Best for: Medium sizes, balls, cubes and representational shapes. References 1. The History of Topiary. (n.d.). Grimsthorpe Castle, Park and Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.grimsthorpe.co.uk/the-history-of-topiary/ 2. History: It All Began with the Romans. . . (n.d.). Center for Architecture. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.centerforarchitecture.org/digital-exhibitions/article/topiary-tango/history-it-all-began-with-the-romans/ 3. The history of topiary. (n.d.). Agrumi: Bespoke Topiary Plant Sculptures. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://topiaryart.co.uk/the-history-of-topiary/ 4. Moss, S. (2018, December). Cultivating curiosities: plants as collections in the 18th century. University of York. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/24026/1/Cultivating%20Curiosities%20-%20Suzanne%20Moss%20PhD%20thesis%20FINAL%20v2.pdf
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Get Tropical With These 10 Hardy Palm Trees Chosen By Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Brahea armata 2) Butia capitata 3) Chamaerops humilis 4) Jubaea chilensis 5) Phoenix canariensis 6) Rhapidophyllum hystrix 7) Trachycarpus fortunei 8) Trachycarpus wagnerianus 9) Trithrinax campestris 10) Washingtonia filifera Managing Winter Damage Getting a tropical feel in a UK garden is easier than you might think – choosing some hardy palm trees you can grow in the UK is a good place to start. Palm trees may hail from much warmer climes, but there are a surprising number that can grow rather well in many UK gardens. Some of the best hardy palm options for those looking for a tropical garden feel are listed below: 1) Brahea armata COMMON NAME: MEXICAN BLUE PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 10+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H1C HARDY TO: -8°C The Mexican Blue palm, Brahea armata, is, as the name suggests, native to Mexico. It is an attractive though slow-growing palm with fan-shaped canopies of blueish-green leaves and tassel-like flowers. It will grow well in well-drained alkaline soil in full sun, and is hardy enough to survive outdoors in a temperate climate. However, young plants will need some protection over winter, and gardeners in chillier or wetter areas may wish to consider growing this palm in a container so it can be moved to a conservatory over the winter months. The Mexican blue palm can be planted any time between May and September, and will flower over the summer months with its long panicles of vibrant yellow flowers, which are followed by yellowish-brown fruits. This palm is hardy in the right spot (and with the right care) down to around -8°C. 2) Butia capitata COMMON NAME: JELLY PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 3-4 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H1C HARDY TO: -10°C The jelly palm is one of the hardiest feather palms available for UK gardeners. These can be grown outside in a sunny spot in sheltered spaces, and are even suitable for growing on heavier clay soils which are not suitable for most other hardy palms. It can tolerate light frosts and sometimes even survive temperatures down to around -10°C. Native to Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay, this attractive palm has graceful leaves which form a dense, full crown and create a gently weeping effect. If you are trying to create an edible tropical style planting scheme then this is the best palm to opt for. The orangey-yellow fruits which appear after the flower spikes are edible. They are around the size of dates and have a sweet, pineapple-like or apricot-like flavour. 3) Chamaerops humilis COMMON NAME: DWARF FAN PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 2.5 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H4 HARDY TO: -12°C The dwarf fan palm can grow over six feet tall, forming dramatic clumps of fanned leaves. One particular type to consider is the var. argentea variant, which grows in the Altas mountains of Morocco. It has blueish-silver leaves. ‘Vulcano’ is another good cultivar of this hardy palm to consider. This is one other option to consider where there is a heavy clay soil, or where you are growing in partial shade. This is also a good option for somewhat less sheltered locations, since it is rather wind resistant. It can tolerate temperatures, when mature and in good health, of down to as low as -12°C. Small yellowy flowers are sometimes born on mature plants. 4) Jubaea chilensis COMMON NAME: CHILEAN WINE PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 12+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H2 HARDY TO: -14°C The Chilean wine palm is very slow-growing, but can eventually grow to around 5m in height in mild areas. It is hardy, in a sunny, sheltered and protected site, with free-draining soil, to about -14°C. But, it is intolerant of cold or windy locations. This palm has a cracked greyish trunk that can resemble an elephant’s trunk, and large leaves made up of a number of small narrow leaflets in greenish-yellow to darker green shades. Even in cooler areas where this palm can not be grown outdoors year-round, it can still be placed in a container to move into a conservatory or indoors over the winter months. Purple and yellow flowers in summer are then followed by dull yellow, woody fruits. Where the fruit forms, it can be candied, and the seeds have a pleasant nutty flavour when raw, though are typically only produced after as many as 60 years. 5) Phoenix canariensis COMMON NAME: CANARY ISLAND DATE PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 10+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H2 HARDY TO: -8°C If you would like to see results more quickly then this is a faster-growing feather palm that could potentially grow well in the south in a sunnier and well-drained spot. These can form stout trunks and spread out their leaves which can grow up to 5m in length. It can cope with partial shade as long as it is growing in a well-drained, acidic or neutral loam. In most UK gardens, it will need some form of protection, or must be moved indoors during the winter months. Though in the right spot it can be hardy down to around -8°C, it can also be grown in a conservatory or in a bright room indoors all year round. 6) Rhapidophyllum hystrix COMMON NAME: NEEDLE PALM / BLUE PALMETTO PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 2-3 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H5 HARDY TO: -15°C This palm is interesting for southern city gardens in a sheltered south or west facing position, where the heat island effect causes hot summer temperatures. It does need summer sun to mature successfully, but interestingly, can also cope with winter lows of down to -15°C. It grows very slowly, but can eventually form clumps of attractive leaves to 1m in height. Even when the plant is killed to the ground in a particularly cold winter, it can still sometimes come back even from a hard freeze due to its suckering growth habit. 7) Trachycarpus fortunei COMMON NAME: CHUSAN PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 12+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H5 HARDY TO: -15°C “The bold, and tropical looking Trachycarpus fortunei is one of my favourite plants,” shares Garden Designer Jacquie Felix-Mitchell. “It’s so hardy and can withstand the heat, cold, wind and rain, which is just as well with our changing climate!” Even in areas where other hardy palms will not thrive, the Chusan palm can be a good option to consider. It can be grown outdoors year-round across much of the UK, though its foliage may be damaged by strong winds in more cold and northerly, particularly exposed sites. This palm can survive a lot, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “Trachycarpus fortunei is probably the best all-round palm for UK conditions, closely followed Chamaerops humilis. “Both can cope with harder conditions in average UK winters but can also cope with wetter and windier conditions. “If you want to grow palms but you’re worried about whether they’ll survive, these are your safest bet.” It can be hardy down to -15°C, and can tolerate heavier soils, and even some shade. But it will still do best in a sheltered post, facing south of west ideally. This palm also grows a little more quickly than many of the other trees in this list. 8) Trachycarpus wagnerianus COMMON NAME: DWARF CHUSAN PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 6-8 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H5 HARDY TO: -15°C In areas where the leaves of the Chusan palm may be damaged by strong wind exposure, this dwarf varietal may be a better option. This is a closely related palm that looks alike and performs similarly. But it has stiffer and thicker leaves which makes it a better choice for somewhat more exposed locations. 9) Trithrinax campestris COMMON NAME: CARANDAY PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 4-5 METRES HARDINESS RATING: H3 HARDY TO: -12°C The Caranday palm is another option which may work well in a somewhat windier spot. It has blue-green leaves in fan shapes which can also be rather wind tolerant. It is a palm that is rather easy to grow, though it should be noted that like some others on this list, it grows only slowly. In the right setting, with sun and warmth, it can be hardy down to around -12°C in winter. It can grow to an eventual height of around 5m. 10) Washingtonia filifera COMMON NAME: WASHINGTON PALM PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 12+ METRES HARDINESS RATING: H1C HARDY TO: -5°C This is the tallest and fastest growing palm on this list. It should be noted however that its height and fast speed of growth means that it may not be the best choice for a smaller garden. If you have a large garden, which is sheltered, out of strong winds, warm and largely frost-free, then this could be another choice to consider. It is believed to tolerate some sub-freezing conditions, but is not generally hardy below around -5°C. So this is probably only an option for certain more southern gardens. But where it will grow, it can be a dramatic and impressive choice, immediately whisking off you and any garden visitors to the sunny shores of California, and the Southwest of the USA. Managing Winter Damage Hardy palms are not always the easiest plants to grow successfully in UK gardens. The most common problem, of course, is winter damage. Fleeces are also commonly used in the UK to protect palm trees over winter. However, if winter damage occurs, the damaged growth should be removed in the spring, and the plants should be tended carefully and fertilised to maintain good health and air recovery. But since palms have only one growing point at the top, palms will not be able to regrow from lower down. So if the palm does not recover before late summer, unfortunately, it has probably seen its best days and you will need to replace it.
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How To Create An Espalier Fruit Tree Screen, With Advice From A Forest Gardener
IN THIS GUIDE What Is An Espalier Fruit Tree Screen? Positioning A Fruit Tree Screen Choosing Your Fruit Trees Preparing & Planting Espalier Fruit Trees 1) Choose A Structure 2) Install Your Framework 3) Prepare A Planting Bed 4) Plant Your Fruit Tree(s) 5) Tie Side Branches Pruning Espaliered Fruit Trees References An espalier fruit tree screen can be a great way to grow fruit in your small-space garden. It can also help you improve privacy, create a windbreak, or screen an ugly wall or fence or an unsightly view. Espalier trees may take a little more maintenance than standard trees, but will take up less space, and often cast less shade, than fruit trees in other forms. Their simple, flat form can also make it easier for you to harvest the fruit from your trees. Read on to discover all about these screens and how to make one yourself. What Is An Espalier Fruit Tree Screen? The term ‘espalier’ is a French word, which means ‘something shoulder support’.1Definition of espalier. (n.d.). In www.dictionary.com. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.dictionary.com/browse/espalier Originally, the word was used to refer to the framework against which trees or plants were trained, but it has now come to refer to both the structure and the plants themselves. Any fruit tree that is trained to grow flat against a wall, fence or other support structure can be referred to as an espalier fruit tree. A pleached fruit tree is a related concept – this is also all about growing fruit trees on a flat plane. But with pleached trees, the horizontal branches start higher up the trunk – forming a kind of raised screen that can work very well to improve privacy when positioned in front of a lower wall or fence. Horizontal branches eventually grow together to create a single form, which can be great as a summer privacy screen. Positioning A Fruit Tree Screen An espalier fruit tree, or multiple trees, can be placed up against a wall or fence. The orientation of the wall or fence is important because it will determine which fruit trees can successfully be grown. South or west-facing structures are sunnier and will allow a wider range of fruit trees to be grown in this way – but there are also fruit trees that are suitable for growing against shadier east-facing or even north-facing walls. Another interesting thing to consider is that espalier fruit trees don’t just have to be restricted to the outer edges of your garden. By erecting a trellis as support, or a series of sturdy posts to hold the supporting wires, you can potentially create an espalier fruit tree screen to separate one part of your garden from another – to hide recycling bins, or provide privacy for a patio or seating area, for example, or to create a series of garden rooms. You might think that placing an espaliered fruit tree screen across your garden would make it feel smaller. But sometimes, partitioning your garden can have the opposite effect and actually make it feel bigger when placed in the right position. Just be sure to think about the shade that it will cast, and make sure it will not have a detrimental effect on other plants you are growing or wish to grow. Choosing Your Fruit Trees Most fruit trees commonly grown in the UK can be espaliered to grow flat against a wall, trellis or fence. However, if you are trying to create an espalier fruit tree screen, it is important to choose the right fruit tree or trees for the location. Trees that will do best on a sunny, south-facing wall include: Apricots Nectarines Peaches On any south, west or east-facing wall, you will usually be able to grow: Most Apples Damsons Most Pears Most Plums Sweet cherries And on a shadier, north-facing structure you can grow: Cooking apples or crab apples (‘James Grieve’ is one dessert and cooking apple that can cope very well with shade) Sour cherries (‘Morello’, ‘Nabella’) Some plums (‘Czar’, etc.) A few cooking pears (‘Catillac’, etc.) Typically, to create an integrated screen of trees, the trees you choose should be positioned around 3m apart. Preparing & Planting Espalier Fruit Trees There are two options if you would like to create an espalier fruit tree screen. The first option is to purchase maiden whips and train these yourself into a flat form. By far the easier option, however – and the most common – is to purchase young trees which have already been trained into this form. Ready trained trees already have branches which have been trained horizontally on their side of the main trunk. You can buy these as bare-root specimens over the winter months, or buy pot-grown fruit trees from garden centres throughout the year. Usually, pre-trained espalier fruit trees have two layers of horizontal branches, and will quickly grow to create three or four. To prepare your espalier fruit tree screen: 1) Choose A Structure Choose your existing wall or fence, or erect a new trellis support. 2) Install Your Framework Install a framework of around 4 horizontal wires, which match the distance between the horizontal branches on the tree you have chosen. Secure these horizontal wires firmly to the structure, using eye bolts or similar. 3) Prepare A Planting Bed Prepare a bed (or place large containers) at the base of the structure, a little out from the base to avoid any rain shadow. Dig holes for your fruit trees, around 15cm out from the structure (if growing in the ground). Or place your containers in the same position. 4) Plant Your Fruit Tree(s) Plant your fruit trees, making sure that they sit at the same level in the soil or growing medium as that at which they were originally planted. Water well, and firm the soil or growing medium well around the trees. Mulch well with compost/well-rotted manure or another organic material. 5) Tie Side Branches Use twine to tie side branches at several places onto the horizontal wires you have placed. If possible use natural twine rather than plastic for environmental reasons – hemp/flax twine is one good option to consider for an eco-friendly garden. “There are now many natural twines to choose from and there are thicker twines now available that are perfect for tying in larger branches,” adds Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “These will last 2-3 years and can be checked during pruning to see if they need replacing. “Alternatively, leather strips also make a long-lasting alternative.” Pruning Espaliered Fruit Trees The main job when creating and maintaining an espalier fruit tree screen is pruning. After planting your espalier fruit tree, leave the main stem to grow through its first spring/summer. The following winter, prune the central shoot down to the next support wire. Leave three healthy buds to form your central leader, and two side branches, which can then be tied into this next support wire. Repeat this process the following year, so branches can be tied into the upper support wire. Between July and September, maintenance pruning involves pruning the shoots growing from horizontal branches. Leave just 3-4 leaves on each. Shoots growing from the main stem should also be shortened to around 3 leaves. Over time, continue to tie down new growth at the end of horizontal branches to the wires on your support, to stop them from growing vertically. Continue to prune, water and provide nutrients for your espalier fruit trees over time and you should be able to keep them in check, healthy and productive. They should provide a screen while the leaves are on the trees, and an attractive – though bare – architectural form in winter. And they should provide plenty of fruit for you and your family, even in the smallest of spaces. If you want to make the most of all the space that is available to you, then choosing trained trees can certainly be an interesting option to consider for your garden. And remember, the trees won’t just provide an edible yield – they can also deliver a range of other benefits and can improve the amenity in your garden.
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You Can Keep Your Hydrangea Blue With An Acidifying Routine, But Is It Really Worth It?
IN THIS GUIDE Why Common Solutions Are Not A Good Idea Is Blue Hydrangea Really Right For You? How To Keep Soil Acidic For Potted Hydrangeas Alternative Shrubs With Blue Flowers Don’t Be Blue References Some hydrangeas will be pink or blue depending on the pH of the soil in a garden and its mineral composition. For blue flowers on your hydrangea the soil needs to have an acidic pH level of between 5.2 and 5.5. It will also need soil that has a high level of aluminium in its chemical, mineral composition. It is possible to keep a blue hydrangea blue, even when the soil will not naturally allow it, but you’ll need to keep up an acidifying routine over time. And it will not be the most eco-friendly or sustainable choice. Why Common Solutions Are Not A Good Idea 1) Blueing Agents / Aluminium Sulphate Do not be tempted to buy ‘blueing agents’ like aluminium sulphate! Effects are fast – and these will certainly keep blue hydrangeas blue over time. However, a lot of this substance will reduce pH more than you wish, and it can also potentially affect phosphorus levels in soil. Since phosphorus is one of three key nutrients required for plant growth, this can have detrimental effects on the garden.1 Applying aluminium sulphate can also lead to excessive and potentially toxic levels of aluminium in soil.2 This not only makes it difficult to garden successfully but also damages the precious ecosystem of the soil which – as organic gardeners – we should be doing our very best to protect. 2) Synthetic Fertilisers You should also avoid synthetic fertilisers – those which contain ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate for example. These may be somewhat effective in making soil more acidic, but the costs are too great to countenance. Avoid these harmful products at all costs to ensure that you are not contributing to our climate crisis or environmental destruction.3 The ammonia industry, from which synthetic nitrogen fertilisers are derived, is one of the most problematic and polluting industries, and one of the main contributors to global warming.4 3) Peat Don’t use sphagnum peat moss / peat to add acidity either. As an eco-friendly gardener, it is important to remember that peat bogs are an important carbon sink.5 Contributing to their destruction through your gardening practices is never a sustainable choice. Is Blue Hydrangea Really Right For You? Trying to keep blue hydrangeas blue in an area where they are not naturally this shade is a lot of work. And really, you need to ask yourself whether it is really worth the bother. Pink Hydrangeas Can Look Good Too You may prefer the blue to the pink blooms that would naturally occur on a hydrangea in the garden. But in that case, you might be better simply to select a different plant. There is nothing wrong with pink hydrangeas either. These can be attractive in a garden too if this is the natural hue for these plants where you live. So you are better to embrace the pink, or, if you really dislike the pink flowers, to remove the plant or plants and opt for a different planting scheme instead. If you do decide to grow a blue hydrangea in a garden with more neutral or alkaline soil, think carefully before you decide to bother with this. Honestly, it is far, far better to choose plants that are already ideally suited to the natural soil conditions where you live. If you really are dead set on having a blue-flowered hydrangea, it is best to grow it in a container, so you can more easily manage the intense ongoing routine and make sure you can maintain the right acidic and aluminium-rich conditions which are required without causing as much damage in the surrounding ecosystem. How To Keep Soil Acidic For Potted Hydrangeas To make sure that you maintain the right, acidic conditions for a blue hydrangea grown in a pot or container, you will need to use an ericaceous compost, and replenish it regularly. Adding sulphur, and acidic organic materials may also help to a degree, though these will only acidify soil very slowly, and will not always do so to the degree required to keep your hydrangea blooming blue. If you do consider adding sulphur to the soil, or to a growing medium you are using, remember that its efficacy will vary depending on the composition of the soil or potting mix. The acidity of the mix will also depend on the water you use to water them, and on the natural rainfall in your area, so this is another important factor to take into account. Fertilisers which are low in phosphorous and high in potassium can also be helpful in producing good blue colouration. A good fertiliser ratio to aim for is 25/5/30 NPK, though remember that you should always seek out organic fertilisers (or make your own). You will need to monitor and maintain the pH of your soil – usually through the use of soil testing kits. It might also be worth checking out other companion plants that also prefer acidic soil conditions. Alternative Shrubs With Blue Flowers If you are struggling to keep your hydrangea blue, then you may be better simply choosing an alternative shrub with blue flowers. Blue flowers can be beautiful in a garden – and hydrangeas certainly aren’t the only option. Some other shrubs with blue flowers to consider include: 1) Buddleja (e.g. ‘Empire Blue’) 2) Ceanothus (Californian lilac) 3) Caryopteris x clandonensis (Blue mist bush) 4) Hibiscus syriacus (Blue Rose of Sharon) 5) Lavenders 6) Syringa vulgaris (Lilacs, e.g. ‘Nadezhda’) 7) Rosemary Of all of these, Ceanothus is perhaps the best alternative shrub for blue flowers for areas where there is alkaline or neutral soil. It will thrive in many gardens as long as it is in a sunny spot, with moist but well-drained or well-drained soil, and will not require an intensive regime to maintain its blue blooms over time. Its blooms are even more impressive than those on a hydrangea, and there are varieties that can be chosen for true blue blooms throughout much of the year. There are also plenty of other blue flowering perennials to consider for the space vacated by a hydrangea whose blooms are somewhat variable in a garden. Don’t Be Blue If you choose the right plants for the location then you can enjoy blue blooms in the garden over a long period of time, without having to do a lot of maintenance work. Remember, it is always better to choose plants suited to the garden, rather than trying to amend conditions to suit specific plants. Choose the right plants for the right places and you can create a far more low-maintenance and eco-friendly garden. References 1. Cho, R. (2013, April 1). Phosphorus: Essential to Life—Are We Running Out? State of the Planet. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://news.climate.columbia.edu/2013/04/01/phosphorus-essential-to-life-are-we-running-out/ 2. Panhwar, Q. A., Naher, U. A., Radziah, O., Shamshuddin, J., & Razi, I. M. (2015). Eliminating Aluminum Toxicity in an Acid Sulfate Soil for Rice Cultivation Using Plant Growth Promoting Bacteria. Molecules, 20(3), 3628–3646. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules20033628 3. Buckler, L. (2018, April 1). The Hidden Dangers of Chemical Fertilizers. Occupational Health & Safety. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://ohsonline.com/articles/2017/12/07/the-hidden-dangers-of-chemical-fertilizers.aspx 4. Ammonia emissions from agriculture continue to pose problems for Europe. (2019, June 28). European Environment Agency. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.eea.europa.eu/highlights/ammonia-emissions-from-agriculture-continue 5. Peatlands store twice as much carbon as all the world’s forests. (2019, February 1). United Nations Environment Programme. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/peatlands-store-twice-much-carbon-all-worlds-forests
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How A Flat Roof Opens Up The Potential To Grow Your Own (Even When Space Is Limited)
IN THIS GUIDE Check The Roof Can Support The Garden Weight Roof Garden Design & Layout Choosing A Growing System Understanding Rooftop Environmental Factors Wind-Breaking & Privacy Creating Shade Harvesting Rainwater Choosing Containers & Creating Growing Areas Choosing Plants Creating city gardens means making the most of every inch of space, so here are some tips to help you create a roof garden. If you have a flat roof where you live, either on your own home, or a shared space on top of a block of flats or shared property, this article is for you. A flat roof can be a great spot to create a garden: it opens up the potential to grow your own even when space is limited, and it also brings many other benefits within an urban environment. Roof gardens can sequester carbon, clean the air, cool buildings, and, of course, provide an abundance of natural yields. They can be wonderfully rewarding and relaxing spaces to spend time and can re-green our grey cityscapes. But gardening on a flat roof takes a little thought: there are actually a number of things to consider that you could not usually have to consider if you were growing on the ground. Below are some tips to help you create the perfect flat roof garden spaces: Check The Roof Can Support The Garden Weight If you want to create a roof garden, load-bearing capacity is key. First and foremost, you need to make sure that the roof you are considering is strong enough to support the weight of a garden. You need to check its structural integrity, and ideally consult with a structural engineer who can determine whether the roof needs to be strengthened or provided with additional support in order to create the garden you wish to create. Safety is key, and you also need to think about practicalities. Is there easy access to the roof garden? Can people safely use the garden space? Roof Garden Design & Layout One of the main challenges when creating and maintaining a roof garden is access. It can be challenging to get materials and tools and other things you need up and down stairs. If the roof is suitable for a garden, therefore, one of the next things to consider is what elements need to be included in the design above and beyond the plants and planting areas themselves. Storage A key tip is to make sure, if possible, that there is somewhere on the roof itself where tools and materials can be stored. This might be a small tool shed – or, on a smaller roof – perhaps a storage area below a bench seat or other feature in the space. Weight is, of course, a key consideration in many roof gardens. But if you can find a space to store things on the roof itself, this will save a lot of time and effort for those who will be tending the garden. Composting Creating a composting area is another key thing to think about. Being able to create compost on the roof, or as close by as possible, can help you fill your pots or containers or raised beds more affordable, and in a more eco-friendly way. If it can be on the roof itself, this can be beneficial because it can avoid the need to lug heavy materials up and down stairs. Seating In addition to thinking about design and layout for planting areas or containers, you should also think about human enjoyment. It can be helpful to think about where a seating area could be incorporated for garden users to enjoy the views and/or enjoy spending time in their beautiful new garden. Incorporating seating areas in a design can help you develop a holistic and integrated plan. Choosing A Growing System Rooftop hydroponics could be one interesting option On a flat roof that is of sufficient strength and integrity, you can grow food, flowers and other plants in much the same way that you would in a container garden or planter gardens on a patio at ground level. However, on the top of a building, it is often important to think about weight. This is not something that you would usually have to consider when gardening at ground level. Again, make sure you consult an expert to have an idea of how much weight your particular roof can support. Even with weight restrictions, however, there are plenty of exciting growing systems to consider. You could: Grow food in planters or enclosed raised beds. Start a typical container garden in pots. Add vertical gardens, hanging baskets etc. to make the most of vertical space. Grow food hydroponically, in water rather than soil or growing media. And even potentially consider an aquaponics system, with fish as well as plants. When choosing a growing system for your roof garden, you need to consider not only weight but also a range of other factors. Space, your own preference, and of course environmental factors all need to be considered. Understanding Rooftop Environmental Factors Understanding environmental factors on a flat roof begins with simple observation. Make sure you spend some time on the roof, and think about the conditions that are found there before you start thinking about layout, growing method, and plant choices. Wind Typically, a roof garden will be more exposed than a garden at ground level. Many roof gardens are windier than gardens at ground level, which is something that you can mediate through good garden design. Sun Roof gardens are also often less shaded than other sites. While some roof gardens may be shaded by another part of a particular building, or by other taller buildings in the vicinity, many will be in full sun. A full sun site can be beneficial, and you can often grow a wide range of plants. Water However, one thing to bear in mind is that, especially in a full sun site with wind exposure, things can dry out more quickly. Since plants grown in raised beds and pots often require more water than plants grown in the ground in any location, water shortage can quickly become an issue in some roof gardens. So access to water, and how easy it will be to meet water needs, is another incredibly important consideration. Wind-Breaking & Privacy A roof garden in London Wind-breaking for a flat roof garden can go hand in hand with privacy considerations for the space. City roof gardens can not only often be exposed, they can also often be overlooked. Creating wind-breaking and privacy screens can often involve the placement of small trees in containers, shrubs, bamboo or tall grasses. Creating green, lush barriers around at least some edges of the space can help block prevailing winds and give privacy. They can also mean that a wider range of plants can successfully be grown at the centre of the space. When it comes to planting up a roof garden, border plants for wind-breaking and/or privacy are often some of the first plants to consider. Creating Shade If your roof garden is in full sun, things can quickly heat up and dry out during the summer months, especially with the city heat-island effect. While this can bring opportunities, it can bring up challenges too. One key thing to think about is how you might be able to create some shade to reduce plant stress and reduce water needs in your roof garden. Creating shade might sometimes mean adding a man-made structure, but more often, it involves the careful combination of different plants. Trees, shrubs and other taller plants can create shade for other plants or seating areas beneath them. Harvesting Rainwater One other very important consideration when planning a roof garden is where water will come from. Of course, you should try to reduce water needs as much as you can. “You can do this by choosing the right growing method or methods, by creating wind-breaks and shade, and selecting plants with less watering requirements,” says Professional Gardener and Horticulturist Roy Nicol. But you also need to think about where the water comes from in the first place. If possible, try to think about how you can collect and harvest rainwater on your roof. Even placing a few buckets or other open containers on the roof could reduce water needs – where connecting to guttering etc. is not possible. If water is to come from below, you will need to think about how the water will make its way upwards, since you’ll soon find it impracticable to carry watering cans up and down stairs on a regular basis. Choosing Containers & Creating Growing Areas No matter what method of growing you choose to employ, the materials you choose for your roof garden are key. Making or choosing planters or containers for your roof garden will involve careful thought. You will also need to think carefully about how you fill those planters or containers. Remember, on many roofs, weight is a key consideration. Even where the roof is strong, it can be tricky to carry heavier containers and materials up to the roof. Choosing lighter-weight materials can often be a good idea. In areas where water could be a concern, it is also often important to choose containers or planter materials that retain water. Reclaimed plastic containers, or wood, can often be better choices than heavy and porous materials like terracotta. However, there is a trade-off – and you also need to make sure that things you choose for your roof will not blow away. Choosing Plants Once you have a good idea of layout and method, and have an idea which containers you will use or growing areas you will create, you need to think carefully about plants. When it comes to choosing plants for a roof garden, you have plenty of choices. Many smaller trees, shrubs, fruits and vegetables, herbs and flowers can be ideal for a roof garden. Just make sure you think about the needs of the things you wish to grow, and the conditions on your roof before you make your choices for the space.
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