Growing
Cutting Back Foxgloves Is Only Required To Tidy-Up And Prevent Them Self-Seeding
IN THIS GUIDE Cutting Back To Remove Seeds Pruning Dead Material In Spring Foxgloves are incredibly easy and low-maintenance flowers to grow and, once established in a suitable location, they are plants that can largely be left to their own devices. Cutting back foxgloves is not really essential at all. I often simply leave my foxgloves to their own devices as they self-seed and pop up each year in my forest garden. However, I will sometimes give the plants a tidy-up in the early spring. When it comes to cutting back foxgloves, whether or not you cut back at all and when you do so will depend upon your aims in the garden. You might deadhead or cut back foxgloves when flowers fade to prevent them from going to seed, or simply prune out dead or damaged material after the winter, in early spring. Cutting Back To Remove Seeds In order to understand the reasoning behind deadheading or cutting back when flowers fade, we need to understand the lifecycle of biennial plants. Biennial foxgloves will typically establish themselves in their first year and then flower in their second. After flowering, they will set seeds and then die. Sometimes, biennial flowers that are not allowed to set seed because faded flowering stems are removed will flower again the following year. However they will not always do so, so it is best to have backup plants in case they don’t. Of course, you will only ever consider removing the faded flowering stalks once flowers are done if you don’t want to collect seeds or allow the plants to self-seed in your garden. In many cases, you will want your foxgloves to set seed so that you can enjoy more blooms in the following years. I do not cut back flowering heads in my forest garden, as I want the plants to self-seed. The dead flowering stalks over winter are also of benefit to winter wildlife and I often see ladybirds and other insects overwintering within them. This is another reason why I don’t cut back these plants before the winter. Pruning Dead Material In Spring The second option is to let the plants continue their natural life cycles and tidy up the plants in the early spring. Where necessary, in early spring, I remove any yellowing leaves on foxgloves, prune out any winter-damaged material and cut the old seed-head stems off at the base where these have persisted through the winter. This ensures that new growth in spring on and around foxgloves can get the light and airflow they need and also keeps the garden looking good as we enter into the next growing season.
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I Have Foxgloves Growing In My Forest Garden - How I Sow Them In A Controlled Way
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Source Your Seeds 2) Prepare Seed Trays 3) Press Seeds Down 4) Overwinter In A Sheltered Area 5) Plant Out In Spring Foxgloves are a cottage garden staple and are extremely useful for a wildlife-friendly garden. Often, if happy in their growing location, they can self-seed readily and you can have new flowers springing up each year. I have foxgloves growing through my forest garden, below my apple and plum trees, where they pop up each year amid the rest of the layered planting, looking beautiful with comfrey, rosebay willowherb and a range of other beneficial fruit tree guild plants. Seeds can also be collected or purchased and sown in a more controlled way to obtain more of these useful plants. To sow foxgloves from seed: Buy or collect your foxglove seeds. Prepare seeds trays filled with a moist seed-starting compost. Press the seeds down onto the growing medium, but do not cover them. Keep in a sheltered spot over winter. Plant out in spring. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray, growing medium, gardening gloves When To Sow March to April When To Plant Out June to August 1) Source Your Seeds There are a range of different foxgloves that you might grow. Among the best options are two native foxgloves, Digitalis purpurea and D. purpurea f. albiflora, but there are many other biennial and perennial options that you might consider, with blooms in different hues. Perennial types tend to be less hardy and require some winter protection, whilst most biennial foxgloves can withstand winters in the British Isles. You can purchase seeds or, of course, collect seeds from your existing foxgloves to sow. I chose to grow the ‘Candy Mountain’ variety with seeds from the National Trust. 2) Prepare Seed Trays Prepare seed trays or other containers filled with a suitable, moist, peat-free, seed-starting compost. This should be moist, but light and friable, and relatively free-draining to prevent fungal issues. You can see from the image above that these seeds are absolutely tiny! I had to work very carefully to separate and sow each miniature seed into separate modules of my growing tray. 3) Press Seeds Down Press the foxglove seeds onto the surface of the growing medium, but make sure that you do not cover them as foxglove seeds require light for germination. 4) Overwinter In A Sheltered Area Keep the seeds in a sheltered spot outdoors or in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse at 10-15°C for germination to take place. The seedlings should germinate in around 2 weeks or so. Pot up seedlings as required into pots of peat-free, loam-based compost and keep them in a sheltered position over the winter months. “If you are worried about the seeds being disturbed, you can put a dusting of fine-grade vermiculate over the seed as this will still let sufficient light through,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. 5) Plant Out In Spring Foxgloves purchased at a later stage of growth can be planted out in your garden in the early autumn. However, young plants are best overwintered in a more sheltered spot until they are established and are therefore best planted out into their final growing positions in the spring, usually in March or April. That being said, I have successfully grown foxgloves from seed when planting out in the same year – but they were kept in a very sheltered corner of my garden. When planting out your foxgloves, make sure that they are spaced at least 30-35cm apart. They should be positioned in a location with moist yet free-draining soil with plenty of organic matter, in light or dappled shade. Biennials and most perennial types of foxglove will flower in their second year. This process is relatively easy and germination rates are generally high.
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Add Foxgloves To Container Displays For Dramatic Height - But Watch Out For Overcrowding
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Foxgloves In Pots? Choosing Plant Pots Compost For Foxgloves Potting Up Foxgloves Potted Foxglove Care Foxgloves are woodland plants that work very well in the dappled shade below fruit trees or in other wild and natural planting schemes where you’d find relatively well-drained but humus-rich soil. However, if you do not have a large garden or cannot grow in the soil, you might wonder whether you can grow these useful biennial or perennial flowering plants in containers. Can You Grow Foxgloves In Pots? The good news is that you can indeed grow foxgloves in containers. They can, in fact, be very useful for container displays as they can give some dramatic height to elevate such displays. Hardier species can work well in containers, but container growing can be particularly beneficial (even where there are other areas of a garden to plant in) when growing more tender foxgloves that require winter protection. Growing these types of foxgloves in pots makes it easier for gardeners to move them undercover to a frost-free location for the winter months. Choosing Plant Pots When choosing a container for foxgloves, remember that these are plants that can grow rather tall, so it is important to choose a heavy, sturdy pot that will not easily tip over with the weight of the plants. For foxgloves, it is a good idea to choose a container that is as large as possible. Remember, foxgloves typically need to form rosettes 15-20cm across before they will send up flowering shoots, so it is important not to overcrowd them. The container needs to have drainage at the base to allow excess water to drain away. However, it is important to choose a container that will not dry out too quickly. A larger container will take longer to dry out and will be easier to maintain. Compost For Foxgloves Foxgloves are best planted into containers filled with a peat-free, loam-based compost that is rich in organic matter. You can purchase a loam-based, peat-free compost mix or you can blend your own. I mix 1/3 loam, 1/3 homemade compost and 1/3 leaf mould to great effect. Your goal is to fill your pot to mimic the natural humus-rich loamy soil found in woodlands where foxgloves naturally grow. Potting Up Foxgloves When potting up foxgloves, the best times to do so is in autumn or in the spring. If you have grown foxgloves from seed or purchased young plug plants, spring sowing is recommended, as young plants do best if placed in pots in a protected place over the winter – before then being potted into their longer-term containers. How Many Should You Plant Per Pot? In the ground, spacing foxgloves correctly is important and you should plant them at least 30-35cm apart to allow the rosettes to grow sufficiently. While you can get away with somewhat closer spacing in a container for most plants, you do need to make sure that the rosettes can grow large enough to allow flowering stalks to form in the plants’ second year when planting foxgloves in a container. If possible, it is best to plant in groups of 3-5 to create an impressive (and dramatic) impact, so choosing a container large enough to allow this will be best. Remember, foxgloves might also be planted with other plants for a container display. They make great focal plants at the centre of a pot, surrounded by other flowering plants that look good with them and which, of course, enjoy similar growing conditions. Potted Foxglove Care Place most foxgloves in containers in light or dappled shade and water them regularly throughout the growing season. Remember that container-grown plants will need to be watered more frequently than in ground-growing areas as they will dry out more quickly. Mulch the top of your container with an organic mulch when planting in order to help with moisture retention and fertility. In an exposed spot, foxgloves may benefit from staking to prevent the stalks from snapping, but in sheltered settings, support is not usually required. Some more tender perennial foxgloves will need to be moved to a frost-free location over the winter months. Even hardier types are more susceptible to frost damage when growing in containers, so it is a good idea to ensure that they are in a sheltered position or to take steps to add insulation around the pot to protect the roots of your plants. Growing foxgloves in containers does take more work than growing them in the ground, but it can still be a relatively easy and hassle-free option for a container garden. “Although I prefer to plant my foxgloves into the ground, in prominent positions that have to look show garden perfect I have a little trick,” adds Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “As foxgloves start sending up flowering stalks, I sink plants still in their pots into the ground covering the pot edge with a little soil and when the flowering is done, I pull out the pots of foxgloves and pop something else in.”
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Nigella Is An Easy Annual To Sow, Even For Novice Gardeners - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Collect Your Nigella Seeds 2) Prepare The Growing Area 3) Sow Seeds Liberally 4) Cover Seeds With Soil 5) Thin Out Seedlings Nigella, also known as Love-in-a-Mist, is a great plant for even novice gardeners, as it is easy to grow and can add a dreamy drift of delicate flowers to beds and borders. If you’d like some of these stunning annuals in your garden, you might be wondering how to sow nigella from seed – one of the quickest and easiest ways to grow them. Thankfully we’ve got you covered, and the process couldn’t be any easier: Obtain seeds of your chosen nigella variety – either by collecting old seed pods or acquiring them from a plant nursery. Prepare a suitable spot in beds or borders. Scatter the seeds liberally in spring or autumn. Cover the seeds with around 1cm of soil. Thin the seedlings to around 10cm apart. We explain each step thoroughly below. As you will see, this is a very easy process and could even be a fun project to take on with young kids. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds When To Sow March – April or September When To Plant Out May or June 1) Collect Your Nigella Seeds You can purchase nigella seeds, but if you already have this plant growing in your garden, it is very easy to collect the seeds for sowing. Here are some dried seed pods from Nigella I grew from seed in my garden border: In my experience just a few plants will ultimately produce an enormous number of seeds. Nigella will often also self-seed readily when happy in a specific location. There are plenty of different nigellas to choose from, with flowers of different hues, but Nigella damascena is the most common and popular. There are a number of different varieties of this species to choose from. 2) Prepare The Growing Area Nigella is a low-maintenance annual that will grow well in any soil which is free draining and in a sunny position. It can even do well in dry soils with low fertility, though it will not grow as tall nor have flowers as large when grown in such a position. Be sure to choose a location that is not shaded and where there is no heavy soil, and it should thrive. 3) Sow Seeds Liberally The best way to grow nigella from seed is simply to scatter the seeds on a suitable bed or border where they are to grow. Seeds are usually sown in spring, in March or April, but the seeds can also be sown in situ in September in milder areas, or where cloches or some other means of protection is provided. Nigella looks great when sown in drifts amid other plants in a perennial bed or border. Simply sow seeds wherever bare gaps can be seen to cover and protect the soil and fill out your displays. “Once Nigella flowers have flowered and set seed once, it will continue to germinate and flower year after year,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I collect the seeds and broadcast them over areas where I want them to spread to or increase in number.” 4) Cover Seeds With Soil Once you have scattered the black seeds, simply cover them over with around 1cm of soil. Make sure that the soil is moist, but not saturated, then simply leave them for germination to take place. 5) Thin Out Seedlings Though not strictly essential, your nigella will grow into somewhat larger and healthier individual plants if you thin out the seedlings when they are large enough to handle. Space them out at around 10cm apart. Nigella is easy to grow from seed and will require very little ongoing care. It does not need to be deadheaded, as the ornamental seed pods are actually just as appealing as the flowers and it should bloom well in early summer without the need for much intervention from you as the gardener.
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How Biennial Wallflowers Are Typically Grown From Seed (Or Via Plug Plants)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Erysimum 1) Sow Wallflower Seeds 2) Place Tray In A Suitable Spot 3) Prick Out Seedlings & Pot On 4) Plant Out In Autumn / Spring Erysimum, also known as wallflowers, can be either perennial, biennial or annual and they can make great additions to many different gardens. Biennial wallflowers are the most common ones to grow. Typically called bedding wallflowers, these are usually grown from seed, though you can also purchase plug plants. To grow biennial bedding wallflowers from seed: Sow seeds into a seed tray filled with a suitable seed-starting potting mix. Place somewhere relatively cool but sheltered. After 4-5 weeks, prick out seedlings and pot on into their own individual containers. Plant out in the garden in autumn or the following spring. Read about this process in more detail below. When To Sow Erysimum Wallflower seeds are sown in the spring, typically between March and May. These plants are biennial, so you will need to tend your young plants throughout the summer, autumn and winter before you are rewarded with flowers the following spring. 1) Sow Wallflower Seeds Fill a seed tray with a suitably moist yet free-draining seed-starting compost, which is also peat-free. Then, sow your seeds sparsely into the surface of this medium, before covering them lightly with a fine layer of the potting mix. “When I first started gardening, we used to sow biennial wallflowers in seed beds outdoors,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In the autumn, we would dig them up and transplant them to their final planting position. “Erysimum grown in a similar way in nurse beds are sold as bare-root perennials in the autumn from garden centres and by post. “If you want to grow quite a few Erysimum, this could be a useful technique to use at home.” 2) Place Tray In A Suitable Spot Place the tray in a cold frame or in a sheltered location outdoors and wait for germination to take place. Make sure that the medium stays moderately moist during this time. 3) Prick Out Seedlings & Pot On After 4-5 weeks, the seeds should have germinated and the seedlings will be large enough to handle. Holding each one by a leaf, gently prick them out and place them into their own individual pots to grow on until they are ready to plant out. Make sure that you tend the young plants, watering when required over the summer. 4) Plant Out In Autumn / Spring You can then plant out your young plants in autumn or keep them in their pots and plant them out the following spring. You should expect these biennial spring bedding plants to flower in the spring, around a year after sowing.
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Here's When To Sow Pansy Seeds So They Flower At Different Times Of Year
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Pansies Considerations Before Sowing How To Sow Pansy Seeds Popular and easy to grow, pansies can really cheer up a garden. Viola x wittrockiana can bloom through much of the year if you choose the right varieties and sow them at the right times, though pansies are especially useful for autumn and winter flowering. Here are the basic things you need to know if you would like to grow pansies from seed: When To Sow Pansies When you will sow pansy seeds depends on when you want them to bloom. Pansies sown indoors between February and April will bloom through the late spring and summer months. Those sown between May and July will flower over the autumn and winter. Considerations Before Sowing Before sowing pansy seeds you will, of course, have to think about preparing an area to do so. It is easiest to start pansies indoors as the seeds germinate best at temperatures between 18-24°C. You may find that you have better germination rates with a heated propagator, but this is in no way essential and I’ve always found a covered tray on a windowsill or in a greenhouse will work just fine as long as they’re kept out of the direct sun. Prepare a seed tray, soil blocks or small pots to sow your pansy seeds and fill the chosen container with good quality, peat-free, seed-starting compost that is moist and not waterlogged. How To Sow Pansy Seeds Press the pansy seeds into the surface of the growing medium, then cover them with a thin layer of compost or vermiculite and water them in well. Make sure that, as soon as the seeds germinate, your seedlings get plenty of light and are placed in a bright spot out of direct sunlight. Keep them watered, taking care not to overwater, before planting them out in the garden once they reach a sufficient size and are established. And it really is as simple as that – Pansies are so incredibly straight-forward to grow from seed – just choose when you’d like them to flower and sow by month accordingly.
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Celosia 'Woolflower': An Ornamental Plant You Can Use In A Food-Producing Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Celosia Ongoing Celosia Care References Celosias are flowers that people tend to either love or loathe, due to their rather unusual flowers and distinctive appearance. They are intriguing and dramatic ornamentals that can create quite a show in a summer garden or as houseplants indoors. Overview Botanical Name Celosia Common Name(s) Woolflower Plant Type Annual Native Area Central & South America, Africa, Arabian Peninsula Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Large plume-like inflorescences or ‘cockscombs’ in many hues When To Plant May to July A tender, herbaceous annual plant hailing from tropical climes, Celosia argentea is one of a small number of species within the Celosia genus. In the UK, we tend to think of this as an ornamental flower, but since it has edible potential, it could be an interesting choice not only for flower beds and borders in summer, or for containers, but also for a food-producing garden.1 “The young plant produces spinach-tasting leaves before flowering, however, after this time, they taste bitter,” explains Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol.2 The plant is believed to have originated in tropical Africa, though it has now spread throughout many tropical and subtropical regions. Common Varieties Some common celosia varieties grown in the UK include: Celosia argentea var. cristata (Plumosa Group), with named cultivars including: ‘Dragon’s Breath’ (AGM) ‘Fresh Look Orange’ (AGM) While ‘Century Rose’ (AGM) and ‘Glow Red’ (AGM) are two other popular cultivars. Celosia argentea (Spicata Group) is yet another popular choice: ‘Flamingo Feather’ (AGM) There are, of course, plenty of other named cultivars to choose from, including dwarf varieties and yellow varieties, amongst many more. How To Grow Celosia Celosia is in some ways a relatively easy plant to grow. It can be grown indoors or outdoors in containers, or outside in your garden as long as it is provided with a suitable spot. Propagating Celosia can be grown from seed, which you should sow indoors in early spring. However, should you wish to grow celosia from seed, you are likely to require a heated propagator, as a temperature between 20-25°C is required for germination. The seeds should ideally be sown into individual, biodegradable plant pots, soil blocks, or toilet roll tubes so you can plant these out into your garden easily without disturbing the roots. Fill your biodegradable pots or make soil blocks with moist, seed-starting compost mixed with perlite or an equivalent to a ratio of around 2:1. Place your seeds on the surface of this, then cover them lightly with a thin layer of this mix. Grow your seedlings indoors before hardening them off and planting them out in your garden (if you are growing outside) in early summer. If you decide to forgo this step, you can also purchase pot-grown celosias in early summer from a plant nursery or garden centre. Ongoing Celosia Care The most important thing to remember when caring for celosias is that these plants hail from tropical climes, so they do require additional care to make sure that they receive the right growing conditions to succeed in the UK. Overwintering Celosia are H2 hardy. This means that they can cope with cold temperatures, but will not survive temperatures that dip below 1°C. They can typically survive outdoors in the British summer in the right spot, but won’t during the winter here in the UK. For them to grow successfully, it is very important to make sure that celosias have a position in full sun that is sheltered from harsh winds. A west or south-facing aspect is often ideal. Preferred Soil When growing in the soil in a garden, celosias will do well in chalk, loam or sand. They require moist but well-drained conditions, so you should avoid growing them in heavy clay or soil with a tendency to become waterlogged. When it comes to soil pH, these plants are far less fussy and will tolerate acidic, neutral or alkaline soils. The most important thing is good drainage, so aim to ensure that waterlogging and overly-damp conditions are avoided. Watering & Feeding Celosias do not like the soil or growing medium to dry out entirely, so, whilst you should keep the soil or potting mix moist, you should take care not to overwater. While the plants are in flower, especially if you are growing your plants in containers, it is best to feed your celosias with an organic liquid plant feed rich in potassium every couple of weeks or so. Deadheading Though not essential, you can cut off faded flowers to keep the plant tidy and encourage the formation of further blooms. However, it is worth noting that the flowers might actually be harvested before this stage since these blooms have absolutely wonderful cut flowers. Once dried, these blooms will keep their colour for at least half a year or so. Common Problems The most common problems encountered when growing celosias relate to poor drainage or temperatures that are not sufficiently warm. Try to make sure that the plant does not experience temperatures below 5°C, and certainly not below 1°C, and take care to ensure good drainage and watering. Poor drainage or over-watering can lead to yellowing leaves and rotting stems and wilting. Sadly, once plants wilt they are unlikely to recover. When growing celosia indoors, you are more likely to encounter pest problems. Look out for whitefly in particular when growing these plants inside. Self-Seeding Celosia can self-seed prolifically in warmer climates. However, while it may occasionally self-seed in the British Isles, this is not as common in the UK as it can be elsewhere. However, if you keep your celosia in an ideal position in your garden and let them go to seed, you may be rewarded with more plants popping up without the need to sow more the following season. References 1. Celosia (Celosia argentea). (n.d.). World Vegetable Center. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://avrdc.org/celosia-celosia-argentea/ 2. Celosia. (n.d.). UMN Extension. Retrieved May 10, 2023, from https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/celosia
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'Give Zinnias Plenty Of Sunshine And Well-Draining Soil' - Grow Yours With These Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Zinnia Varieties How To Grow Zinnias Zinnia Care References Zinnias are popular annual flowers that really come into their own in the late summer months. Many different zinnias have been bred and make great bedding or container plants. As long as they have plenty of sunshine and well-draining conditions, these delightful plants can thrive in British gardens. Overview Botanical Name Zinnia Plant Type Annual Native Area North and South America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Solitary flower heads in multiple hues When To Sow March to June Flowering Months July to October When To Prune August to October Data collected by Kew Botanic Gardens suggests Zinnias originate from shrubby habitats in North and South America.1 There are a number of different species within this genus (Kew themselves lists 23 accepted varieties) from which hundreds of cultivars have been produced since breeding programs began in the 19th century.2 Today, we can find zinnias in a wide range of colours and with both single and double blooms. There are dwarf types and much taller options on offer. Zinnia Varieties There are so many different zinnias available to grow that we could not possibly name more than a small fraction. However, here are some of the common varieties to consider that are among those that have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit: Z. ‘Profusion White’ Z. ‘Profusion Orange’ Z. elegans ‘Benary’s Giant’ Z. elegans ‘Purple Prince’ Z. elegans ‘Dreamland’ Z. ‘Zany Rose Picotee’ Z. elegans ‘Zowie! Yellow Flame’ When choosing a zinnia, you should think about the colour and form of the flowers, as well as their size and height, which will have a bearing on where they are best placed in your garden. Z. haageana It is also worth noting that some zinnias are more frost or disease-resistant than others, so these can be good choices when the ideal conditions for growing these flowers may be more of a challenge to provide. How To Grow Zinnias The most important thing to remember when growing zinnias is that these are plants that hail from warm and sunny places with well-drained conditions. Of course, not all parts of the British Isles can provide those conditions and some years are better than others when it comes to growing these flowers here. With a lovely warm summer, zinnias can thrive. Zinnias are most commonly grown from seed, but can also be purchased to plant out in your garden. Seeds are usually sown from late April or early May, though in some areas, sowing outside in June may be possible. Planting Out Zinnias, whether grown from seed at home or purchased, should be planted out in a garden only once all danger of risk has passed where you live. In the UK, it is typically safest to wait until late May or early June before you plant them out. How far apart you decide to space your zinnias will depend on your growing schemes and on the size of the variety that you have chosen. To cover the growing area or in a block for bedding, plants are typically spaced around 30-40cm apart. If you are thinking about growing zinnias, then you should also think about how these flowers might be beneficial to your vegetable garden crops. Most zinnias do not produce edible yields, but many varieties will draw in pollinators and other beneficial creatures to aid with growing food successfully. Think about growing zinnias alongside crops that like similar growing conditions. Zinnia Care Preferred Soil Zinnias are not hugely fussy about the type of soil that they are grown in or the pH level. However, they do need free-draining and warm conditions, so it will be much more challenging to grow these plants in soils that are slow to warm and do not drain as well. If you have heavy clay soils, you may have more luck growing zinnias in containers. “I garden on clay and I find that Zinnias struggle to thrive with their roots in it, particularly with prolonged summer wet in the UK,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I prefer to grow them in pots in John Innes No.3 with some added grit. This sharp drainage makes a big difference to the health and growth of the plants.” Position & Sunlight Zinnias will thrive in a south or west-facing aspect in full sun. They need to be provided with as much sun and warmth as possible, so you must choose a suitable location to succeed in growing them successfully. Of course, some summers are better than others for zinnias here in the UK and even in optimal locations, growing these flowers can sometimes still be a little bit hit-and-miss. Watering & Feeding Though zinnias require well-drained and free-draining conditions, they also do require consistent watering throughout the summer months and do not tolerate drying out entirely. Keep zinnias watered in hot weather. When watering, try to keep water off the foliage as much as you can, as damp leaves can cause fungal issues. Zinnias will flower best if you provide them with a high-potassium organic liquid plant feed. Feed them every couple of weeks through the summer. Pinching Out When your zinnias are around 20-30cm tall, it is a good idea to pinch out the central growing tip. Nip it off just above a pair of leaves. This encourages bushy growth and branching that can lead to more flowers. You might sacrifice the first flower to do so but you will typically get more flowers over the course of the season. Staking If you are growing a taller zinnia variety, you may be able to grow them close together to provide some stability. However, if doing this, you may also have to consider staking or some other form of support. Common Problems Zinnias can, unfortunately, be prone to a number of fungal problems, from damping off as seedlings, through to grey moulds and Alternaria blight on more mature specimens. These problems are far more likely to occur in cold and wet conditions. References 1. Zinnia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:332074-2 2. Hazzard, W. (2022, October 1). Zinnia. Plant Breeding Center. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://plantbreeding.ucdavis.edu/zinnia
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Deadheading Ranunculus Can Help Them Bloom Better - But Careful Not To Prune Too Hard
IN THIS GUIDE Deadheading Pruning Ranunculus is a varied genus incorporating a wide range of flowering plants, commonly known as ‘buttercups’. Many buttercups may grow in UK gardens, including native options like meadow buttercups, and common weeds or wildflowers like creeping buttercup. These are low to no-maintenance plants, which require minimal care in British gardens. As gardeners, however, there are a number of other ranunculus varieties that you might choose to cultivate, which do require a little more care. The most popular of the non-native ranunculus is Ranunculus asiaticus, also known as the ‘Persian Buttercup’, or ‘Garden Ranunculus’. These are popular florists’ flowers, commonly chosen for weddings and other special events and they look wonderful in the garden but are also excellent as cut flowers – with good longevity once cut. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife When To Prune Remove spent flowers as and when they appear Deadheading Most garden ranunculus will bloom for longer and more prolifically if you deadhead the spent blooms. This will encourage the plants to put their energy into flower production rather than on producing seeds. If you are not interested in collecting seeds to sow, deadheading can improve your flowering displays and give you more cut flowers for your home. To deadhead ranunculus, simply snip off any stems that have finished flowering, or spent blooms on branching types, using clean sharp secateurs or a gardening knife. Of course, if you cut flowers for displays inside your home, then you may not need to deadhead at all. “Whilst for some plants, I recommend taking a little more growth off whilst deadheading to keep them compact, this is simply not the case with Persian Buttercups,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Slicing cleanly to where a flower stem joins another or to a leaf is all that is required whilst flowering. “After flowering, wait another six weeks as a minimum, before cutting plants to ground level ahead of their dormant period, if you decide to do this.” Pruning Other than deadheading, ranunculus does not typically need to be pruned or cut back at all. It is important to leave the foliage in place after the flowering has finished, as this foliage is still collecting energy which will be stored in the tubers over the dormant period and will allow for strong healthy growth and good flowering the following year. Once the foliage has died back naturally, you can cut this right back to the ground. However, it is generally best to leave this in place for the wildlife in your garden or to offer some protection from the cold to the tubers when growing in cooler regions or when growing in pots. Some people will choose to lift the tubers over winter, to store them in a cool, dry place. If you are doing so, you will cut the foliage back before you lift the tubers, but in most cases, this is not necessary and you can leave the plants in a suitable spot (in a greenhouse, polytunnel or a dry and sheltered spot outdoors).
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