Growing
Talking Super Sage Varieties With The Victorian Salvia Study Group
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties 1) S. argentea 2) S. spathacea 3) S. oxyphora 4) S. ‘Royal Bumble’ 5) S. ‘Jezebel’ 6) S. x jamensis ‘Raspberry Royale’ 7) S. ‘Hot Lips’ 8) S. ‘Clotted Cream’ 9) S. splendens ‘Vanguard’ 10) S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ 11) S. nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ 12) S. rosmarinus ‘Green Ginger’ 13) S. sylvestris ‘May Night’ 14) S. microphylla ‘Heatwave Glimmer’ References Salvias produce flowers that are easy on the eye and there are well over 1,000 accepted species to choose from, according to Kew.1 With this in mind, it can be hard to know where to start. Luckily, we’ve got you covered, as we share some favourites from Lyndi Garnett, the Founder and Coordinator of the Victorian Salvia Study Group. We also share 14 favourites (with pictures) from our editorial team. Expert-Chosen Varieties “Salvias are incredibly diverse, they grow all over the world from coastal South Africa to the high Andes,” says Vicki Weston, owner of Weston’s Salvias. “They are very varied in form and colour so I’m never going to get bored! 600 species and hundreds more varieties of these have been bred over the last twenty years. S. ‘Nachtvlinder’ “They are also extremely long flowering, blooming from late May until the frosts, very low maintenance and beneficial bees and bugs love them.” We asked Vicki to share some of her favourite varieties. S. uliginosa “Asking me my favourite salvia is a bit like asking me who my favourite child is!” she jokes. Her top picks included the hardy varieties: S. ‘Royal Bumble’ (scarlet, pictured below) S. ‘Flower Child’ (pink) S. ‘Nachtvlinder’ (purple, pictured above) S. × jamensis ‘Javier’ (violet) S. uliginosa (blue, pictured above) And some tender salvias that Vicki loves are: S. involucrata (pink, pictured below) S. fulgens (red) S. corrugata (purple) “There are too many to have favourites,” agrees Lyndi Garnett. However: “In summer, I like all the small-leaf Salvia microphylla and S. greggii types because of all their bright colours.” S. microphylla “When autumn comes around, all the cerise and crimson flowers contrast beautifully with the purples and bright blues and, in winter, all the tall large leaf varieties come to life, some reaching up to 4m in height and spread. S. greggii “Then all the herbaceous varieties burst forth and the small-leaf salvias come to life, and so it begins again.” A medley of Lyndi’s other top picks include: S. madrensis S. involucrata S. wagneriana And if these aren’t enough, we sample 14 additional varieties below – a hand-picked mix of the popular and the rare in all colours of the rainbow. 1) S. argentea COMMON NAME(S): silver sage HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: grey and silver FOLIAGE TYPE: semi-evergreen FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered With a height of about 90cm and a 50cm spread, ‘Silver Sage’ is a very tidy plant in more ways than one. The ‘argentea’ or ‘silver’ in its name refers to the cool, patently silvery-green shade of its leaves that are irregularly ovate and sport thread-like hairs. The flowers are white and are produced during a shortish season in late summer. This species has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 2) S. spathacea COMMON NAME(S): pitcher sage HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: red and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered Among the most unusual and sparklingly colourful of salvias, pitcher sage comes in at a height and spread of just under 1m. The leaves are like oblong arrows, amusingly crinkled, and quite aromatic. They are purplish-pink with a purplish-maroon understructure. This species is also a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 3) S. oxyphora COMMON NAME(S): fuzzy Bolivian sage HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: semi-evergreen FLOWERS: pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered Rising up to 1.5m in height, frost-tender Fuzzy Bolivian Sage gets its name not from its foliage, but, from its flowers, as the 4cm nub-like blooms are covered in a fine fuzz. They are a bright pink to cherry red and are borne in spikes, the overall effect being uniquely decorative. These blooms are seen from midsummer into autumn. This delightful and rare import also features brilliant green leaves that are oval-to-lanceolate. 4) S. ‘Royal Bumble’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘royal bumble’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green with purple stems FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered With a bushy habit emphasised by the roughly equal dimensions of its height and spread of about 75cm, ‘Royal Bumble’ is an exceptionally popular cultivar. The foliage is deliciously aromatic and is of a brilliant, almost vivid, green shade. The clawed flowers are awesomely-coloured, being rich vermilion with gradations into orange and red. These vibrant flowers bloom from late spring to early autumn and the variety has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 5) S. ‘Jezebel’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘jezebel’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered ‘Jezebel’ produces larger-than-average bright red flowers displayed on racemes. Additional charms include the ovate leaves which are petite and of a rich, deep green shade and the extended blooming season that starts in late spring and finishes in mid-autumn. It grows to about 90cm and is (yet another) recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 6) S. x jamensis ‘Raspberry Royale’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘raspberry royale’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered Continuing with the red theme and presenting another cultivar that is true to its name, ‘Raspberry Royale’ features perfect raspberry-red flowers. They are double-lipped and, although on the small side, occur in spellbinding abundance on racemes, and are even produced over a lengthy blooming season from summer into autumn. This sub-shrub has greyish-green lanceolate leaves that are very pleasantly aromatic. 7) S. ‘Hot Lips’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘hot lips’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: white and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered One of those red hot hit varieties, ‘Hot Lips’ is supremely popular. At an equal height and spread of about 1m, this bushy plant’s foliage does not even get a second billing as the flowers steal the show. The clawed blooms are a brilliant red in the early part of the season and often come up white when the show closes in late autumn. However, in mid-season, they are at their bi-coloured best, displaying a bright red and hard white. 8) S. ‘Clotted Cream’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘clotted cream’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered A deciduous perennial that reaches up to 70cm tall and has a bushy habit, ‘Clotted Cream’ has deep green ovate leaves that are remarkably aromatic. The clawed and lipped flowers are a rich creamy white colour. Their blooming habits are variable, but they will certainly bloom throughout the summer months. 9) S. splendens ‘Vanguard’ COMMON NAME(S): scarlet-flowered sage ‘vanguard’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: green and red FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered A clump-forming, upright cultivar that grows to a mere 30cm in height, ‘Vanguard’ is a tender but wonderfully floriferous variety. In summer it bears lush spikes of scarlet flowers, which it keeps producing until some time in autumn. Reddish bracts emphasise the brilliant red colourations of this joyfully decorative variety. This variety has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 10) S. officinalis ‘Tricolor’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘tricolor’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: cream, green, grey, silver and purple FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered Though it produces pretty little blue flowers in summer, Tricolor’ is a salvia that is desirable for its very ornamental foliage. Those 3 colours with which the variegated and aromatic leaves are decorated are shades of green, cream, and rose-purple, the last hue appearing usually only on young leaves. What’s more, it is a hardy evergreen so you can enjoy this plant’s beautiful foliage even in the grey of winter. 11) S. nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ COMMON NAME(S): Balkan clary ‘caradonna’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: grey, green and silver FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered A super-hardy perennial, ‘Caradonna’ is surely salvia royalty. Immensely popular, its flowers are a lustrous royal purple verging on violet. These small but brilliant blooms are held aloft on spiky racemes and are seen for the better part of summer. It reaches a touch under 50cm and has greyish-green foliage. 12) S. rosmarinus ‘Green Ginger’ COMMON NAME(S): rosemary ‘green ginger’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: white and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered Leading the way among the edible sages is, of course, rosemary, and ‘Green Ginger’ is one of the best picks among the many shrubby evergreen cultivars. It is a bushy plant that grows to nearly 1m in height. The narrow leaves are deliciously aromatic and make for an unbeatable kitchen herb. It produces lovely pale blue and white flowers in clusters from late spring to the end of summer. 13) S. sylvestris ‘May Night’ COMMON NAME(S): wood sage ‘mainacht’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: green FOLIAGE TYPE: deciduous FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered ‘May Night’ is a super-hardy deciduous perennial that rises up to 1m and around half the spread. Its aromatic foliage is of that cool, deep, greyish-green hue that typifies the sages. It produces flowers all through the summer that are borne thickly on racemes and are of a brilliant purple hue that catches and holds the eye. Another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 14) S. microphylla ‘Heatwave Glimmer’ COMMON NAME(S): sage ‘heatwave glimmer’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: green and purple FOLIAGE TYPE: evergreen FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered A shrubby evergreen with a bushy habit and a height and spread of 1m, ‘Heatwave Glimmer’ displays colour in unexpected places: it has visibly purplish stems and sepals, and young leaves are often also tipped or tinged with purple. In contrast, the clawed flowers that resemble birds are creamy white, often with a pink flush. These classy, refined blooms appear from early summer and clear into autumn. References 1. Salvia L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000096-2#children
Learn more
Why You Should Be Deadheading Snapdragons Throughout Their Flowering Season
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead 1) Pinch Off Spent Flowers 2) Cut Entire Stalks 3) Cut Back Delightful snapdragons are among the most popular garden plants, thanks to their unusually shaped flowers in thick bunches on upright spikes. They also come in a remarkable array of hues and shades, including sunny yellow, soft pink, and intense maroon. No matter which variety you go for, you will find some benefits to deadheading snapdragons. Deadheading spent blooms spurs more profuse blooming as it directs the plant’s energy to focus on producing new blooms. Deadheading Snapdragons is a straightforward process: Pinch off spent flowers individually. Cut off entire stalks when the majority of their flowers are wilted or dead. Cut back the plant once during the season to stimulate fresh growth and renewed blooming. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Deadhead Throughout flowering season When To Deadhead Snapdragons should be deadheaded during the flowering season as a regular and ongoing gardening task. During this season, inspect your plants about once a week or so. 1) Pinch Off Spent Flowers If you see a few fading or wilted flowers on a stalk, pinch them off with your thumb and forefinger. Make sure to remove them from where the flower attaches to the main stalk so that you also remove any developing seed pod. 2) Cut Entire Stalks If you see that the great majority of flowers on a stalk are fading or wilted, use secateurs to cut off the entire stalk at its base near where it rises from the plant. 3) Cut Back After the first flush of blooms seems to be over in mid-to-late summer or if the plant fails to flower satisfactorily in the first place, cut it back to about 30-50% of its current growth. Doing so will most probably stimulate fresh growth and bring forth a fresh flush of blooms. “Deadheading is a time-consuming task but rewards you with more and later flowers,” shares Colin Skelly, a consultant Horticulturist. “With taller cultivars, it will also help to prevent the risk of the plants being blown over. “In small gardens, this attention to detail really helps to get more out of your space.” Leaving blooms will typically result in seed pods that you can collect later in autumn. Make sure to water the plant well after cutting back.
Learn more
10 Enchanting Tropaeolum (Nasturtium) Varieties Including Some Lesser Seen Species
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Dwarf Nasturtium 2) Garden Nasturtium 3) ‘Ladybird’ 4) ‘Black Velvet’ 5) ‘Chameleon’ 6) ‘Empress Of India’ 7) Flame Nasturtium 8) Blue Nasturtium 9) Canary Creeper 10) Three-Coloured Nasturtium References Nasturtiums hail from South and Central America and have been introduced to a motley assortment of countries spanning all continents and covering temperate, sub-tropical, and tropical zones.1 The plant’s given name, Tropaeolum, is usually restricted to formal use with the plant being known in the English-speaking world and even elsewhere by its common name ‘Nasturtium’. Genus Tropaeolum comprises just under 100 species (all native to Central and South America).2 From among the many species and cultivars of Tropaeolum we present a top ten list of our favourite varieties, which also turns out to be a fairly diverse and representative selection: 1) Dwarf Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. minus The species that ‘started it all’ in Europe. It is native to Ecuador and Peru, growing at altitude. A trailing, dwarf species, it grows to 30cm with a spread only marginally bigger. It blooms from mid-summer to early autumn and the small, funnel-shaped flowers are a buttercup yellow with darker amber-to-red splotches. 2) Garden Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. majus is native to a swath of land from Colombia to Bolivia. It has a height and spread of 2-2.5m – it too blooms from mid-summer to early autumn. It has open, disk-shaped flowers in deep, rich tones of yellow, orange, and red with sizes ranging from 3-6cm. It is the parent species of some of the most widely-available and popular varieties. 3) ‘Ladybird’ Botanical Name: T. minus ‘Ladybird‘ A cultivar of T. minus that is even shorter at only 20cm. The leaves are very much shield-shaped and the flowers are a cheery yellow with brilliant red ‘ladybird’ spots at the proximal end of each petal. It blooms from early summer into autumn. 4) ‘Black Velvet’ Botanical Name: T. minus ‘Black Velvet’ May not bear actual black flowers but they do have a very dark flush and the deep creases in the petals also create shadows on the flowers whose colour varies from blood red to mahogany. They have a bright yellow centre. This bushy variety is about 30cm high with a similar spread – it blooms from mid-summer into autumn. 5) ‘Chameleon’ Botanical Name: T. majus ‘Chameleon’ A cultivar of T. majus, is also a bushy variety with a height and spread of about 30cm. Its leaves are nearly round and it produces particularly eye-catching flowers. Salver-shaped, they are of a pale yellow colour with large red-to-crimson ‘splatters’ on each petal. As the flower matures it undergoes a chameleon-like colour-shift from yellow to light pink! It blooms from mid-summer into autumn. 6) ‘Empress Of India’ Botanical Name: T. majus ‘Empress of India’ An old heirloom variety. It has a bushy habit with a height and spread of 35-40cm and features wonderfully rounded sea-green leaves. The funnel-shaped flowers range in hue from vermilion through scarlet to crimson, and sometimes develop a purple flush. It blooms from mid-summer into autumn. A superb choice for patios and planters. 7) Flame Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. speciosum Comes from the highlands of Chile and it is well known to grow strongly in the highlands of Scotland, as one of the hardiest varieties, rated to Zone H5. It is of a climbing type and reaches heights from 3-4m. The star-shaped flowers are about 2cm across and, as its name suggests, are of a fiery orange colour. These have especially prominent spurs and this plant is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 8) Blue Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. azureum Blue Nasturtium is also from Chile but this one is not frost-hardy. It is of the less-common summer-dormant type that retains its foliage from autumn through winter into spring, which would lend fantastic colour to the garden because its leaves are of a light, bright green and are palmately lobed. It grows to only about 1m. A short flowering season in spring yields delightful flowers. They are disk- or salver-shaped, and are of a gentle lilac-to-purple hue with a cream centre. 9) Canary Creeper Botanical Name: T. peregrinum Hails from Peru and is a very popular variety in the United States. ‘Canary Creeper’ at one and the same time is a misnomer and is also very apt. This plant is very much of the climbing type; what’s more, it grows to about 3m and can even reach 4m. However, the flowers are a perfect canary yellow and they even bring to mind canary wings, thanks to the narrow, fringed, ‘fluttering’ petals! The deeply lobed leaves are of a rich green hue. 10) Three-Coloured Nasturtium Botanical Name: T. tricolor Surely boasts one of the most uncommon and gorgeous flowers. It is also uncommon as a summer-dormant species. T. tricolor is native to Chile and is a climber, reaching heights of 1-1.5m. The pinnately lobed leaves are of a rich green shade – and as for the small but outrageous blooms, they actually comprise of a pronounced calyx enclosing the flower. The flower is yellow, often with greenish edging, and the calyx is orange-red with purple-to-crimson edging. This species even boasts a long blooming season that lasts from mid-winter to early summer. “Tropaeolum tricolor is my favourite nasturtium, combining an exotic flower first blooming at a time of year you wouldn’t expect to see it,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It needs full sun and a mild location to thrive outdoors or grow in a container on a trellis and move indoors in winter.” Winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. Other recommended varieties include: T. majus ‘Hermine Grashoff’ T. majus ‘Alaska’ T. majus ‘Whirlybird’ T. majus ‘Milkmaid’ T. majus ‘Jewel Cherry Rose’ T. tuberosum T. polyphyllum T. leptophyllum T. hookerianum T. austropurpureum. References 1. Crawford, B. (n.d.). Nasturtiums: Great for the Garden and Table. New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://njaes.rutgers.edu/plant-of-the-month/tropaeolum-majus.php 2. Tropaeolum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002592-2
Learn more
Diascia ‘Twinspur’ Growing Guide - A Rock Garden Or Potted Plant Favourite
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Ongoing Care Pruning References Diascia or ’Twinspur’ is a pretty little wildflower from South Africa with very appealing features that other, better known, small flowering plants would find hard to match. Diascias are half-hardy annuals or semi-evergreens, usually of a spreading type, that bear oodles of tiny highly distinctive flowers. Each flower has two prominent spurs sticking out from the rear and as gentle little charmers, diascias are suitable for numerous garden purposes. This small plant is of the no-care, sow-and-grow type. It needs no special soil or maintenance and is remarkably pest-resistant and disease-free. Almost all its varieties form a neat, even mat, but are not invasive, and can be used for many different garden purposes. It is for such convincing reasons that diascia’s popularity is on a sharp rise in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Diascia spp. Common Name(s) Twinspur Plant Type Perennial / Annual Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H3/H4 Foliage Semi-Evergreen Flowers Small cup or bell-shaped flowers that ranges in colour from peachy tones to orange, white and pink When To Plant March – June When To Prune March – April Diascia is a member of the family Scrophulariaceae.1 This botanical family includes genera whose flowers are bilaterally symmetrical, like pansies, rather than radially symmetrical or asymmetrical. These plants are of three kinds of habit: mat-forming, bushy, and upright. The trailing, mat-forming types are the most common and these are the types that generally come to mind when one talks about diascia. These grow to only 15-25cm in height, but with twice the spread. In contrast, the bushy and upright forms reach heights of 0.5-1m. Diascias are herbaceous plants that are annuals or semi-evergreen perennials depending on your location in the United Kingdom. Whatever the habit or the size, the bilaterally-symmetrical flowers are typically only about 2cm wide and they are cup-shaped or bell-shaped. The leaves are small and ovate, though the shade of green varies somewhat between the varieties, ranging from a bright mid-green to a rich dark green. The flowers are white, and in various tones of pink and orange, particularly coral and apricot shades, through to near red. Planting The mat-forming types of diascias will make very attractive groundcover or edging plants, whilst the upright and bushy types will make pleasing and gentle companion plants for taller plants, and their flowers’ typically soft and pastel shades will set off plants with brightly coloured blooms. All types of diascias will make great choices for borders because of their soothingly colourful floriferousness. Any of the varieties that are on the small side are very well suited for rock gardens because of their diminutiveness and colourations, and also because of their spreading habit. Finally, it is as container plants that diascias are experiencing a sharp rise in popularity. With a cascade or cloud of a profusion of tiny blooms in soft shades look delightful streaming off a hanging basket or patio pot, it’s easy to see why. Ongoing Care Soil Requirements The best type of soil for diascia is moderately fertile, light soil amended with organic material. A free-draining loam amended with organic compost is ideal. The soil should retain moisture but not stay waterlogged – it must drain well. The best to accomplish this would be to incorporate plenty of organic matter such as compost in the planting hole and to mulch with more compost. Sunlight In most areas of the United Kingdom, diascias will do best in full sun, but if you’re in a milder region and you run into a sweltering summer, twinspur will be in a bit of a bother and will certainly stop flowering. Container Growing All varieties can be grown from seed and propagated from softwood cuttings while upright varieties can also be propagated by division. However, the easiest and most common route for growing diascias is to obtain them as potted plants, which are widely available in numerous varieties. If your preferred variety is not hardy enough to survive winter outdoors, the advantage to growing it in a container is that you can simply overwinter this small plant indoors in a sunny and warm spot, provided it is a perennial variety and not annual. Propagating To propagate from cuttings, take a softwood stem cutting of about 8cm. Keep a pair of young leaves and remove the rest. Trim the stem to just below a node. Dampen the bottom of the cutting and dip in rooting hormone, or in honey followed by cinnamon. Insert the cutting 2.5cm into potting compost and then water sufficiently to keep the compost damp. Seeds may be started indoors before spring and this is the choice alternative if you intend to grow potted plants. They may also be sown directly outdoors after there is no threat of frost and temperatures stay above 10°C. Seeds should be sown onto seed-sowing compost, very lightly covered with vermiculite or compost and kept in a light place between 15-20°C out of direct sunlight. Sow seeds for mat-forming varieties 20-30cm apart, otherwise thin seedlings after they emerge. Soil should be kept consistently moist and the seeds should sprout in about a fortnight. Watering & Feeding Diascias should be watered regularly but in moderation. Keep the soil consistently moist but allow the top few centimetres to dry out every few days before watering again. Diascias perform better when they are fed. Either a regular balanced fertiliser applied once a month throughout the season or a slow-release balanced fertiliser applied in spring will suit these plants very well. Be wary of applying fertiliser at the recommended strength for diascias; it will not hurt if the dilution is about 20% greater than what is recommended. Pruning No matter which kinds of diascias you grow, pinching the leaders of growing plants will result in bushier growth. Doing so may especially benefit some of the newer upright varieties. When plants are beginning to look leggy or otherwise when blooming tapers off in the dog days of summer, cut back the plants by about a 30-50% of their current growth. Doing so will trigger fresh growth and renewed blooming, particularly when you move into the end of summer and the weather starts to cool down. If you are lucky enough to live in a region where you can grow diascias as outdoor perennials, you may divide the plants when they look hemmed-in or congested 2-3 years after they were planted. Such division is best done in early spring. Common Problems One of the major plusses of these plants is that they are not susceptible to any worrying pests or diseases. All you need to watch out for are snails and slugs which love to chew up diascia foliage. “If this is an issue, organic solutions such as a mat of sheep wool on the soil surface or copper tape around the lips of containers can help to keep troublesome molluscs at bay,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. References 1. Diascia fetcaniensis. (2019, August 9). Cambridge Botanic Garden. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.botanic.cam.ac.uk/the-garden/plant-list/diascia-fetcaniensis/
Learn more
Why Pinching Off Dead Or Damaged Begonia Flowers Will Keep Your Plant Looking Good
IN THIS GUIDE Why Deadhead Begonias? When To Deadhead Begonias How To Deadhead Begonias References Originally from South and Central America, Africa and southern Asia, begonias have delighted British gardeners for hundreds of years. And with over 2,000 species to choose from, in a multitude of colours, it’s no wonder this plant has become so popular.1 With different species growing from 0.1-0.5m in height, there’s a begonia for every garden, regardless of space or size. They also flourish indoors, so there really is an option for everyone. Another reason begonias are so favoured among gardeners is that they are so easy to care for. These plants need very little attention, however, one thing you must not forget about is deadheading. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, secateurs (or snips) When To Deadhead September Why Deadhead Begonias? Technically, you don’t need to deadhead begonias as they naturally drop their flowers. That said, removing dead and wilted flowers will help your begonias bloom in abundance, help your plant produce more stems and just make everything look a bit more neat and tidy. “Pinching off dead or damaged flowers will help to keep your begonia plant looking attractive,” explains Janeen Randle, President of the Melbourne Begonia Society. When To Deadhead Begonias Your begonia’s flowers will all start to die out towards the end of September, or when the first frost hits, so you will definitely need to deadhead then. But, throughout the blooming period, if you see any dead or wilted flowers, it’s important to start deadheading to increase further flowering. How To Deadhead Begonias Deadheading your begonias is quick and easy: Examine your begonias every couple of days, looking out for wilted, discoloured or dead flowers. Once you notice flowers that need to be deadheaded, don your gardening gloves and, if you wish to use them, grab a pair of secateurs. Take hold of the stem about 1.5cm down from the flower. Either pinch the stem so you can break off the flower, or make a cut at that point with your secateurs. If there is a new bud growing beneath the dying flower, be sure to cut above it. Dispose of the flowers. Leaving them at the base of the plant can encourage diseases. Keep an eye on your begonias throughout summer – and repeat this process when needed. As mentioned above, “it is imperative that you do not leave dead flowers and leaves that have dropped around your begonia plants, as they can harbour disease,” Janeen explains. “If you want larger flowers, particularly with tuberous begonias, remove the female blooms.” You will find you will need to deadhead your begonias more frequently as summer progresses because every time you snap off a flower, 2 new stems will begin to grow and flower. Horticulturist Colin Skelly advises: “Once you’ve mastered the technique, consider sourcing a pair of snips (in-between scissors and secateurs).” “They are more agile and should speed you up if you have many plants to deadhead. “But, from experience, mind your fingers when you start using a new (and usually sharper) tool!” Deadheading will allow your begonias to channel their energy into growing fuller and more healthily. Just take care not to snip too close to the flower head as this will prevent new stems from growing and will make the plant look barren and ugly. References 1. Begonia L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:327437-2#children
Learn more
Using A Polybag, Begonia Tubers Can Be Started Indoors 8 Weeks Before Last Frost
IN THIS GUIDE Types Of Tubers When To Start Begonia Tubers How To Start Tubers Planting Tubers If you want bright, bold, colourful flowers in your garden then begonias are just the ticket. Whatever you use your begonias for, growing them is easy, and in this article, we will look at how to start begonia tubers in your garden. Tuberous begonias are called such because they grow from a tuber. The tuber is a large organ used for storage and grows just below the surface of the soil. Throughout the summer months, the tuber grows and stores energy which will help the plant bloom the following year. Types Of Tubers While most tuber begonias are of the upright growing variety, there are also types of begonia that can be used in hanging baskets. If you are looking for trailing begonias, have a gander at the ‘Golden Balcony’ type. Begonias also come with a wide range of flower size and style. For single-flowered plants, check out the ‘Bertinis’. For smaller flowers, the ‘Nonstop’ varieties won’t let you down. There are also a few options with much bigger flowers such as the ‘Roseform’ and ‘Ruffled’ varieties which come in a few choices of colour. When To Start Begonia Tubers If there’s one thing begonia tubers don’t like – it’s the cold. Pre-start your begonia tubers inside, 8 weeks before the last frost. How To Start Tubers As previously mentioned, begonia tubers won’t survive in cold weather so you will want to start them indoors. Follow these easy steps to give your begonia tubers the best start in life: You can buy your tubers in garden centres between January and April. Once bought, store them in a dry place, safe from frost until you are ready to start planting. Fill a polybag with damp multi-purpose compost. Plant your tubers in the polybag and seal it. Place the polybag in a warm, dry place. We recommend using an airing cupboard. Check the tubers every day to see if their buds have started breaking. When the buds break, remove them from the polybag. When the begonia tubers’ buds have started breaking, it’s time to move them outside. Planting Tubers Follow these easy steps to start your begonia tubers on the next leg of their journey: Fill pots or containers with about 15cm of multi-purpose compost. Leave the pots or containers in the airing cupboard or somewhere warm for at least 24 hours so the compost can warm up. Take the tubers out of the polybags. Place the tubers on the surface of the soil, making sure the side with the wispy, white roots is touching the soil. Push the tubers gently into the soil so that only the hollow side remains above the compost. Cover the pots with clear plastic for a few days to encourage root growth. Remove the plastic and water every couple of days and feed once a month with general feed. You can either leave them in their pots or transplant them straight into the garden. If you do plant them in the garden, choose a spot in full sun or partial shade.
Learn more
Growing Begonias In Pots? Follow These 5 Essential Rules To Avoid Going Wrong
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Begonia In Pots? 1) Choose A Pot At Least 40cm Wide 2) Use A Free Draining Potting Mix 3) Space Plants Or Tubers Equally 4) Only Plant A Few Per Pot 5) Provide Suitable Growing Conditions Some begonias are ideal for growing outdoors in summer, while others make great houseplants year-round. If you are thinking about growing begonias, you might be wondering whether they make good container plants. Can You Grow Begonia In Pots? The good news is, when growing indoors and in a garden, begonias are often an excellent choice for container growing. There is a wide range of different types of begonias and a staggering array of cultivars, which work very well in pots. Tuberous begonias are a great choice for pots placed outdoors in the summer, and fibrous-rooted begonias can also be grown as annuals outdoors in pots or other containers over the summer months. There are also several different types of begonias ideally suited to growing in pots indoors. 1) Choose A Pot At Least 40cm Wide When choosing a container for begonias, remember that it should allow water to drain away freely at the base, as these are not plants which like waterlogged conditions. With this in mind, there are a wide variety of different containers that you could choose from. It is worth considering the eco-friendly and affordable option of using reclaimed items or materials to make new planters for your garden. While individual plants can often be placed in smaller containers, choosing a container at least 40cm across will usually make for impressive displays. “Use a pot that is only slightly larger than the root ball,” says Janeen Randle, the President of the Melbourne Begonia Society. “Make sure to sterilise the pot before planting.” 2) Use A Free Draining Potting Mix Begonias like fertile and free-draining conditions. Any peat-free multi-purpose compost will generally be fine. Mulching around the top of containers with homemade compost, leaf mould or other organic mulch will help retain fertility and moisture. “I use an open mix for my begonias,” explains Janeen. B. ‘Glowing Embers’ “My mix contains a good potting medium, perlite, pumice, small orchid bark for drainage and a sprinkle of slow-release fertiliser.” 3) Space Plants Or Tubers Equally When potting up begonias, you will typically either be dealing with tubers, which should ideally be placed first into small individual pots, or, more commonly, with young plants. Space these equally around the container, being sure to bear their growth habits and eventual size in mind. Remember that there are begonias with trailing or cascading and more upright forms. 4) Only Plant A Few Per Pot Typically, 3-4 begonias will create a full and lush display in a container 40cm across. However, there is plenty of flexibility in this and you may plant fewer. This is especially true when you grow a more vigorous cultivar or plan to include other flowering or foliage plants in your summer display. 5) Provide Suitable Growing Conditions Place containers in full sun or partial shade (depending on which type you are growing and the conditions where you live). Water well throughout the growing season, trying to make sure water reaches the roots and does not wet the foliage and flowers. However, do not overwater and make sure excess water can drain away freely. Feed your begonias with a potassium-rich liquid feed every 4-6 weeks during the summer. Fibrous-rooted types are generally treated as annuals, but with tuberous types, you may wish to lift the tubers in early autumn, before the first frosts, and store these in a frost-free location so that you can enjoy them over subsequent years. “It is rare to see fibrous-rooted begonias used in indoor containers but I strongly recommend trying them indoors,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “When fibrous-rooted begonias were first introduced to the UK, they were grown as houseplants. “After the frosts have passed in spring, I start with a young plant grown from cuttings or seed and plant them outside in beds or small potted arrangements. “Just before the first frosts hit in autumn, I dig out all the plants and take cuttings for next year and with any good quality plants, I pot them up and use them as houseplants. “However, when spring comes around again, I plant the indoor plant back into containers outside to fill beds and planted arrangements.”
Learn more
Did You Know It's Possible To Overwinter Any Type Of Begonia? Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Caring For Houseplant Begonias Caring For Tuberous Begonias Caring For Hardy Tuberous Types Begonias are varied plants; there are some which make great houseplants, whereas others grow well outdoors over the summer months, and a few may even be hardy enough to remain outdoors all year round. In order to understand how to care for begonia in winter, you need to be clear about which type you are growing. Houseplant begonias are kept indoors year-round, with reduced winter watering. Most tuberous begonias are usually grown outdoors in summer, but cannot survive winter outdoors. Hardy tuberous begonias may be able to survive winter outdoors in very mild areas. Keep reading to understand how to care for each of these types over winter. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Container, sand or soil, heated spaces or undercover growing areas Caring For Houseplant Begonias When caring for indoor begonias in winter, there are two main factors which will determine your success during the coldest months. The first thing to do is to make sure that you are providing the right temperatures for the specific begonias you are growing. Rhizomatous begonias and semi-tuberous types can sometimes cope with temperatures as low as 10°C, but they will prefer it a little warmer. Fibrous-rooted types need a minimum of 13°C, and cane-stemmed begonias will not like it if temperatures drop much below around 15°C. You will also need to reduce watering over the winter months if growing your begonias indoors. This is so the soil they are growing in does not become waterlogged. Caring For Tuberous Begonias If you wish to keep your tuberous begonias for another year, then it is usually necessary to lift the tubers from the soil or from their containers before the first frosts arrive. The tubers should be left to dry out, then placed into boxes or other containers filled with just-damp sand or soil. The box or container of tubers should be put in a frost-free location, and the temperature should ideally be kept around 7°C. Caring For Hardy Tuberous Types Hardy tuberous begonias can sometimes be kept outside year-round. The hardiest can cope with temperatures down to around 0°C, though most within this category can cope with 2-4°C. If you do plan to leave tubers in the ground, it is a good idea to cover them with a thick mulch of organic material, such as dry leaves or straw, to insulate them from the cold. Otherwise, lift the tubers as above, and keep them at temperatures above 2-4°C.
Learn more
Begonia Society President On Leggy Begonias And Her Foolproof Fix
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Light Conditions 2) Soil Conditions 3) Older Plant Problems 4) Tip Pinching To Encourage New Canes References Begonias are a group of tender perennials which are often grown as half-hardy annuals here in the UK. Part of the Begoniaceae family, they tend to originate from tropical and subtropical climates including South America and Asia, hence why they sometimes struggle when grown in our very different temperate climate.1 One of the most common issues gardeners experience when growing begonias is the plants becoming leggy or straggly, which can be caused by a number of factors: Growing in the wrong light conditions. Growing begonias in the wrong soil. Issues with older plants. Lack of pruning. This process is explained in more depth below. 1) Light Conditions Most begonias grow best in dappled or partial shade. If a begonia plant is growing too tall and becoming leggy, it is more often than not a sign that the plant is not receiving enough light. Try moving the plant to a slightly lighter spot where it will receive more light. “Most Begonias originate in the understories of tropical forests,” explains Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is why they prefer part-shade or dappled shade. “If you can’t provide dappled shade then try to find a location that has sun in the morning but is shaded for the rest of the day.” However, make sure it does not receive harsh midday sun, as this can scorch the foliage and cause the plant to wilt. 2) Soil Conditions Begonias can also become leggy due to the wrong soil or nutrient conditions. Begonias are hungry plants and grow well in a peat-free multi-purpose compost. However, if their soil is too rich, or if manure has been added, this may cause the plant to put on excessive growth. Tuberous and fibrous rooted begonia plants require feeding during the summer months to promote blooms. However, if fed with too much nitrogen, this may cause the plant to become leggy. Instead, fertilise with a weekly high-potassium feed, which will encourage flowering rather than growth. 3) Older Plant Problems Even if grown in the correct conditions, begonias can lose their lower leaves and become leggy over time as part of the natural ageing process. Unfortunately, there is not much you can do about that, though pruning can help (see below). Try growing new begonias instead – there are plenty of varieties to choose from. 4) Tip Pinching To Encourage New Canes When growing begonias, small plants can benefit from having their growing tips pinched off, which will promote side growth and a bushier habit as they grow on. “Tip pinching is also helpful to encourage new canes from the base of the plant,” adds Janeen Randle, the president of the Melbourne Begonia Society. Whether a mature begonia has become leggy due to growing conditions or old age, the plant can be cut back to its usual shape using a pair of clean and sharp secateurs, cutting back to just above a leaf node. “The best way to manage leggy begonias is to remove old brown stems at ground level, cut back by about two-thirds, preferably making the cut around 10 mm above an outward facing bud,” explains Janeen. To revitalise an overgrown begonia, the plant can be cut back to 10-12cm above the soil surface and allowed to regrow. References 1. Begoniaceae – A Genus Worth Exploring. (n.d.). Piedmont Master Gardeners. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/begoniaceae-a-genus-worth-exploring/
Learn more
