Growing
Calibrachoa ‘Million Bells’ - Are They Worth It For One Season Of Growth?
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Reasons To Avoid Planting How To Grow Planting Ongoing Plant Care References Calibrachoa is a popular half-hardy bedding plant for a summer container garden. Its pretty bell-shaped flowers look like mini petunias and come in a wide range of colours. Overview Botanical Name Calibrachoa Common Name(s) Million Bells Plant Type Evergreen Perennial Native Area South & Central America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Petunia-like, 2-3cm in diameter in a range of hues When To Plant May-June Calibrachoas, you might be surprised to learn, are actually in the same plant family as potatoes, tomatoes and peppers (Solanaceae).1 They are, in their native South American range, short-lived perennials or subshrubs, but they are treated as annuals in the UK and other temperate climate gardens.2 The Million Bells series is a collection of hybrid calibrachoa commonly cultivated as garden plants. Most frequently, they are used as summer bedding plants in hanging baskets or pots, as they have a trailing habit. They typically provide an excellent flowering display between early summer to early autumn, before temperatures fall and the plants are simply added to your composting system. Reasons To Avoid Planting For sustainable, eco-friendly gardeners like me, plants like this one are somewhat problematic. While many love these pretty flowers and the way in which they trail over the edges of containers and hanging baskets, they pose a problem for those who want to garden in a more ethical way. The problem is that these are hybrids, which cannot be grown from seed, and you cannot propagate these plants yourself at home because most are trademarked and it is technically illegal.3 Plug plants or pot-grown plants are available relatively inexpensively from garden centres, but most if not all come in plastic pots, and most come in peat-based compost – things we should all be trying to avoid. I personally would not purchase these because I don’t think the true cost (to people and planet) is worth it for just one season of growth. I would always try to go for options which I can grow from seed, or propagate myself for future years – but of course, this is a personal choice. How To Grow As mentioned above, Calibrachoa hybrids cannot be grown from seed. If you wish to grow these plants then you must either pick up plug plants in the early spring or somewhat larger plants in late spring or early summer. Planting Plant out calibrachoa once all risk of frost has well and truly passed in your area. These are tender plants which cannot cope with temperatures below 1-5°C. Plug plants are the most affordable option, but remember that plug plants purchased in early spring must be potted up and grown in a frost-free environment before they are hardened off and planted out from late May. You will need to make sure you have a suitable spot in which to do this. Ongoing Plant Care Million bells may look great, but it is important to understand that though this series is bred to be better for UK growing, and can cope with poor summer weather, it is still quite fussy about exactly how and where it will grow and does require some conscientious care. Aspect Million Bells must be positioned in a sheltered spot in full sun. A hanging basket or container against a sunny, south-facing wall is ideal. Soil Requirements These plants can be planted in any multipurpose, peat-free compost, or in any free-draining yet moist growing medium or soil. You can grow these in a bed or border, but they are typically grown in containers or hanging baskets because they look good trailing over the sides. Note that the containers that you choose should be moderately good at retaining moisture, but must allow excess water to drain away freely. Make sure there are good drainage holes and use pot feet to raise containers up off the ground. Watering Calibrachoa should be watered regularly over the summer months. Although these plants will not tolerate waterlogged conditions, they will also suffer if allowed to dry out. Keep the growing medium moist and remember that this could involve watering every day, perhaps even more often if the weather is very warm and dry. Fertilising Feed these plants every couple of weeks from mid-summer with a high-potassium organic liquid plant feed like comfrey tea or seaweed extract. Pruning No deadheading is required as these plants drop their spent flowers on their own, but you may wish to pinch back each stem, nipping off the growing tip, as this can prevent legginess and encourage the plants to bush out and produce more flowers. Overwintering These are single-season plants which are only used for summer bedding and are composted once the weather turns in autumn. Propagating As mentioned above, while Million bells could technically be propagated by means of softwood cuttings, this is technically illegal since the plants are trademarked. New plants must be purchased each year if you want to continue to grow these flowers in your garden in successive years. Common Issues Calibrachoas can be rather fussy plants when it comes to temperature, sunlight and water. They will not flower well if they are grown in an area with too much shade and will die in cold temperatures and can wilt when the temperatures are very high. Flowering will also be poor if you have not watered consistently, and wilting can be due to a lack of water or can be a sign of overwatering, which may have led to root rot. Grey mould is another common issue and can be a sign that you have overwatered. Yellowing leaves can be a sign of a nutrient deficiency and may mean that extra feeding is required. Calibrachoas can also be bothered by pests like aphids, slugs and snails, though these can usually be controlled organically by attracting ladybirds, hedgehogs, birds and other beneficial predatory wildlife to your garden. “In my experience, other organic methods, such as treating the compost in pots with nematodes and applying copper tape around the edge of pots, can be very effective at deterring slugs and snails,” says Roy Nicol, a Professional Horticulturist with over 10 years of experience. References 1. Calibrachoa x hybrida. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/calibrachoa-x-hybrida/ 2. Calibrachoa. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:38309-1 3. Get plant breeders’ rights for your new variety. (2023, January 5). GOV.UK. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.gov.uk/guidance/plant-breeders-rights
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'Myosotis Makes A Great Filler Plant For Pots Of Spring Bulbs' Says Master Horticulturist
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Forget-Me-Nots In Containers? Choosing A Container Compost Requirements Potting Up Myosotis Potted Myosotis Care With their dainty but prolific flowerheads, wide spectrum of colours and effortless spreading habits, forget-me-nots are the ideal option for adding intrigue to your ground cover in beds and borders. Whilst forget-me-nots are traditionally grown directly in the ground, it’s extremely easy to achieve the same eye-catching effects in pots, window boxes or hanging baskets. “Myosotis makes a great filler for pots of spring bulbs, clothing the base of the pot and spilling over the edges, providing the perfect foil for the vertical accents of taller bulbs,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. Indeed, in some circumstances, it’s actually preferable to do so. For more information on exactly how to cultivate forget-me-nots in containers, this article should tell you everything you need to know. Can You Grow Forget-Me-Nots In Containers? First and foremost, the answer to this question is a resounding yes! Forget-me-nots are often favoured for their propensity to spread without becoming weedy or invasive, which is why they generally appear as part of an outdoor display. Although they’re not the most aggressive ground cover option available, that doesn’t mean they can’t get too big for their boots on occasion. Their prolifically self-seeding nature means you might get more than you bargained for. Growing your specimens in pots cuts off that option. Another advantage of growing forget-me-nots in a container is that you can easily move them around as your preferences or the climate dictate. Rearrange floral displays with the minimum of fuss and bring vulnerable plants indoors during the wintertime. It’s that easy! Choosing A Container Forget-me-nots are moisture-loving plants and your choice of a container should reflect that. Generally speaking, plastic is a better option than either ceramic or clay, since they do not lose moisture as quickly. They’re easier to move around too. If you don’t like the aesthetic of a plastic pot, you could always house it inside a more visually impressive alternative. Be sure to choose a container with adequate drainage holes though, since forget-me-nots hate dryness, but they will die if they go too far the other way and become waterlogged. Compost Requirements Forget-me-nots aren’t overly fussy about the type of terrain in which they grow, with even poor fertility not an insurmountable barrier to their growth. I advise mixing two parts of potting soil with one part compost and one part perlite, grit or sand. By doing so, you’ll ensure that the plant has adequate nutrition and drainage, allowing it to grow to its full potential and flower as reliably and as attractively as you desire. At the same time, you won’t overload it with nutrients (as a fertiliser might) and end up with a leggy specimen. Potting Up Myosotis The exact dimensions of the container you will require can vary depending on the specific type of forget-me-not you’re planting. However, as a general rule, you should be able to house one plant comfortably in a pot with a diameter of between 30-45cm and won’t need to upgrade the pot size later on. Fill the pot to within 2.5cm of its upper lip and don’t tamp the soil down too firmly, since you still want the plant’s roots to have the freedom to develop. Plant your forget-me-nots in early spring to give them enough time to establish themselves in time for blooming in summer. It is, of course, possible to grow forget-me-nots from seed in a container and it doesn’t pose much more of a problem than growing from a nursery-reared specimen. However, the former is unlikely to flower much (if at all) in its first year, so opt for the latter if you want blooms right away. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? As mentioned above, it’s best to keep your forget-me-nots in separate containers if possible. This will ensure they have enough room to stretch out and grow to their full potential. It also minimises the possibility of powdery mildew developing on your plants. On the other hand, it is possible to plant more than one forget-me-not per pot if that’s really what you desire. Simply multiply the container dimensions by the rough guide above, meaning a pot housing 2 plants should be a minimum of 60-90cm in diameter. Potted Myosotis Care Position your Myosotis in a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunshine a day, such as a west or south-facing window. If you’re lucky enough to live in a particularly warm part of the country and plan to keep your potted forget-me-nots outside, you may need to locate them in a partially shaded spot. Potted forget-me-nots have a tendency to dry out more quickly than those grown outdoors, so water them deeply around once a week until the liquid seeps out from the bottom of the pot. You don’t need to water them again until the topsoil is completely dry. Fertilising your forget-me-nots is optional, and although it is not necessary in the majority of cases, it can provide them with an additional boost come blooming season. If doing so, apply a light application of slow-release, granular fertiliser in spring. Always apply to moist soil in order to avoid the possibility of root burn.
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Sowing Myosotis: Harvest And Use Seeds From The Pods Of Existing Plants
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Myosotis 1) Harvest Seeds 2) Fill Shallow Pots With Potting Soil 3) Sow Seeds Myosotis sylvatica, or forget-me-nots as they are far more widely known, are hardy shade-loving perennials that produce stunning bright blue flowers in late spring to early summer. Loved by pollinators, forget-me-nots are often grown as part of informal, woodland and cottage gardens and, since growing best in the dappled shade, are perfect to underplant roses and shrubs with. Growing forget-me-nots from seed can be very rewarding, but patience is required as the plants will only flower the following year. Here’s a simple process for growing forget-me-not from seed: Harvest seeds from the pods of existing plants or purchase seeds from your chosen retailer. Fill shallow pots with a peat-free growing medium. Sow the seeds into the pots or sow directly into the ground. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, shallow pot or seed tray, compost, rake When To Prune May-July When To Sow Myosotis Forget-me-not seeds can be sown indoors in early spring or autumn, or sown directly into the ground in late spring to early summer. 1) Harvest Seeds Forget-me-nots self-seed naturally, but their seed can be purchased from most seed suppliers and also be collected to sow elsewhere. To harvest the seed, wait until the plant has flowered and allow it to dry until the stems and seed pods turn brown. Pull up the plant or cut the spent flower stems off and extract the small black seeds to store in a dry and dark environment. 2) Fill Shallow Pots With Potting Soil If sowing indoors, fill a seed or module tray or shallow pot with a free-draining seed sowing compost and lightly tamp down. 3) Sow Seeds In Trays To sow the forget-me-not seeds, thinly scatter the seeds on top of the compost or sow 1-2 seeds per module. Gently press the seeds into the compost for good soil contact and cover them with a layer of compost. Water gently to avoid dispersing the seeds and place them on a warm windowsill or in a propagator at a temperature of approximately 17-21°C. Once germinated and when the seedlings are large enough to handle, carefully prick out the seedlings and pot on individually into small pots, using peat-free multi-purpose compost. Grow on undercover in a light position but out of direct sunlight and gradually harden off before planting out in their final position, with a spacing of 20-30cm. In The Ground Forget-me-nots can be sown direct from late spring to early summer, to flower the following year. “I let the Myosotis do the seed sowing for me late winter and early spring I remove seedlings from where I don’t want them,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I then pot these on into 6cm or 9cm pots (depending on their size) for growing on before replanting where I do want them. They can also be directly replanted if you know where you want to move them.” Prior to sowing, prepare the soil by raking to a fine tilth and water so that the ground is damp. The seed can either be sown by thinly scattering and then covering with a thin layer of soil or by planting the seeds 1cm deep where they are to grow and then covering them over. Gently water the soil after sowing, being careful not to displace the seeds and keep the ground moist over the summer months. Once germinated, thin the seedlings to 20-30cm to grow in situ and bloom the following spring. Forget-me-nots will naturally self-seed after flowering and produce plants for the future. However, if you don’t want the plants to freely self-seed, they can be deadheaded or lifted after blooming.
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Gardeners Suggest 3 Options For Growing Godetia From Seed, Including Sowing In Autumn
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow 1) Directly Sow Seeds 2) Sow Indoors In Spring 3) Sow Undercover In Autumn Godetia grandiflora is a hardy annual worth considering for UK gardens, as it produces flowers in summer that are lilac or pink, sometimes with white centres. They will thrive in full sun or partial shade, in moist but well-drained loam or sandy soil with an acid pH. If you would like to grow these annuals from seed, there are three different options to consider: You can directly sow the seeds in a prepared bed in early-mid spring, or potentially in autumn in areas with milder winters. Sow seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area, and then transplant them to the garden after the last frost in your area. You can also sow the seeds under glass in autumn, overwintering them with protection for flowers a little earlier than typical for spring sowing the following year. When To Sow Godetias are typically sown in either early spring or in autumn. When precisely you sow them will depend on where you live and also on whether you have chosen to directly sow the seeds where they are to grow in your garden or are growing them indoors for later transplantation. I’d recommend sowing the seeds of godetia directly into a prepared bed or border where they are to grow, in early to mid-spring or in autumn if you live in a milder area. However, depending on the conditions where you live, you may find it easier and have better germination rates if you sow a little earlier in spring, indoors or under cover, and transplant the young godetia to your garden once all risk of frost has passed. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray or pots, growing medium When To Sow March-April or September When To Plant Out April (if not directly sown) Here are three different options to consider depending on the growing conditions where you live: 1) Directly Sow Seeds If you decide to directly sow godetia seeds, then the first and most important thing is to choose a suitable place to grow godetia and then to prepare the growing area. This plant grows best in slightly acidic, moist but well-drained, and poor to moderately fertile soil. It can be grown in full sun or partially shaded conditions. The main thing to avoid is overly hot or humid conditions. Make sure the area is not over-fertilised too, and avoid sowing close to legumes or other nitrogen fixers. Make sure the area is clear and weed-free, then sow your seeds as desired, making sure that you place the seeds on top of the soil since these seeds need light to germinate. Sow sparsely, and thin the seeds as required to leave an eventual spacing of around 15-20cm between plants. 2) Sow Indoors In Spring If direct sowing proves challenging where you live, you can sow indoors around 6-8 weeks before the expected last frost date in your area. The reason that direct sowing is recommended for godetia is that they can be susceptible to damping off, so indoor sowing can be trickier than it is with many other seeds. Ensuring good hygiene with tools and containers, choosing a suitable seed-starting compost with added vermiculite or grit, growing under bright light in a well-ventilated space, keeping temperatures at 12-21°C, and watering from below can all help to prevent issues. If you choose this option then you should transplant the young godetias to their final growing position in the garden (after hardening off) after the last frost date where you live. 3) Sow Undercover In Autumn Another option that people sometimes take when growing godetias from seed is sowing under glass in autumn. “Sowing in autumn and then transferring to a ventilated cold frame can be a good way to minimise damping off as it allows a good amount of airflow around the seedlings,” shares Colin Skelly, Horticulturist and Consultant. “Being careful not to overwater is important as temperatures cool down.” Again, ensuring good hygiene and providing the right growing conditions is crucial to avoid problems before germination or when seedlings are small. Overwinter the young plants and these can then be planted into their growing positions in spring.
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Sowing Ammi Majus Into Greenhouse Pots With Emily Cupit's Video Tutorial
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow 1) Prepare The Growing Area 2) Sow Your Seeds 3) Pot Up 4) Transplant To The Garden Also known as ‘Bishop’s Flower’, Ammi majus is popular with florists and floral artists for its dainty white flowers and lacy foliage. This annual looks great in the middle of beds and borders, or in an informal wildflower meadow. This plant is great for attracting bees and other beneficial insects and when the plants are left after flowering, birds like goldfinches will love the seeds. If you would like to grow this annual in your garden, the good news is that it is very easy to grow from seed. The seeds are sown between March and May, either indoors, undercover, or directly where they are to grow. Prepare a seed tray filled with seed-starting compost, or a suitable area of fertile and free-draining soil if direct sowing. Sow seeds, covering lightly with compost or soil. Once the seeds have germinated and have their first true leaves, if growing indoors, transfer each to its own pot. If not directly sown, transplant seedlings into your garden towards the end of May or in early June. Whether sown indoors or directly, the plants should flower the same year, blooming between June and August. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray or pots, greenhouse or a cold frame When To Sow March-May When To Plant Out May-June When To Sow Ammi majus seeds can be sown in late February indoors, but are usually sown in March. However, expert Horticulturist Colin Skelly has a different approach: “I sow half of my Ammi majus into pots in my greenhouse in autumn (late September/early October) and the rest in March. “This is partly insurance by not putting all of my proverbial eggs in one basket, but also produces two waves of flowering as the autumn or spring sown plants will flower in two waves, in April to May and then May to June.” Alternatively, from around mid-April onwards, seeds can be directly sown into a well-prepared area of soil in your garden. 1) Prepare The Growing Area When growing Ammi majus from seed, the first thing you will need to decide is whether you will directly sow or sow indoors. Sowing indoors is best if you have heavier, clay soil. It can also be a better strategy if you have a lot of slugs and snails or other pests to contend with. If sowing indoors, prepare a seed tray or soil blocks and fill these with a suitable peat-free seed-starting compost mix. 2) Sow Your Seeds Sow the seeds on the surface of the growing medium and cover them over lightly, firming them in gently and making sure that the medium is moist but not saturated. The seeds should germinate quite quickly. Keep them in a greenhouse or cold frame, or on a sunny windowsill until they develop their first true leaves. 3) Pot Up Once the Ammi majus seedlings have their first true leaves, prick them out and pot them into their own individual pots. You can then continue to grow them in a greenhouse or under a cold frame. 4) Transplant To The Garden The young plants can then be transplanted into their final growing positions in your garden towards the end of May or in early June.
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'Make Sure You Start Sweet Peas At The Right Time Of Year' Advises Expert Grower
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow 1) Prepare The Growing Area 2) Sow The Seeds 3) Prick Out & Pot On 4) Plant Out Sweet peas are popular annual flowers and are often planted in a cut flower garden. As nitrogen-fixing plants, they can also be beneficial as companion plants in a kitchen garden. These are cottage garden favourites, with a delightful visual appeal and scent. Fortunately, if you want some in your own garden, they are very easy plants to grow from seed. Sweet peas can be sown either in spring or autumn, and the process is very simple: Prepare seed trays, small pots, or soil blocks with a moist, peat-free seed-starting compost. Plant the seeds in trays or pots around 1cm deep. Place seeds in a sunny spot indoors, or in a greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frame. Harden off and plant out sweet peas into their final growing positions once all risk of frost has passed. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray or pots When To Sow March-May or October-November When To Plant Out April-June When To Sow “The best piece of advice I have for sweet pea newbies is to make sure that they start sweet peas at the right time of year,” says Georgina, the owner of the specialist plant nursery, Sweet Pea Gardens. “Sweet peas are hardy annuals, so they like to get started in cooler temperatures. “Some people even start them in the autumn so that they can overwinter them in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse.” As Georgina mentions, you can sow sweet pea seeds in spring or autumn. If you sow in spring, the plants will be placed out the same year, but if you sow in autumn, you will need to have somewhere frost-free that they can overwinter before being placed out into the garden the following spring. 1) Prepare The Growing Area “Trying to germinate seeds directly in the ground is too tempting for marauding birds and mice who just love to eat a fresh sweet pea seed,” explains Georgina. Instead, sweet peas can be sown into a range of different containers. “Even in my greenhouse on benches, mice love to eat my sweet pea seeds, leaving perfect seed-size holes where they gratefully extract them,” Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly adds. “To get around this, I cover pots with fine metal mesh until they have germinated.” You might choose to sow your seeds into seed trays before potting them up into their own containers. You can start them in soil blocks, in toilet roll tubes or in other biodegradable pots, and you can plant up to 3 seeds in 9cm pots. I like to start sweet peas in toilet roll tubes since these plants tend to do well if they are placed in long, thin containers so their roots grow deeply and narrowly. Also, when you plant in toilet roll tubes, you do not need to prick them out but can simply let them grow and then plant them out into your garden as is. I have also grown sweet peas in sowing trays with an amazing success rate: 2) Sow The Seeds Some people suggest steps like nicking the seeds (avoiding the eye) or soaking and sprouting seeds prior to sowing. However, I do not bother as I tend to get good germination rates with sweet peas without any additional steps, which one of our experts also agrees with. “Modern seeds have soft shells so do not need to be soaked or chipped before sowing,” says Carole Tate from the National Sweet Pea Society. I simply place the seeds around 1cm deep into the tubes, covering them with my growing medium and firming the soil gently into place. 3) Prick Out & Pot On I keep my sweet peas on a sunny windowsill indoors until they germinate, then move the seedlings into my polytunnel. Your next steps will, of course, depend on which containers you have chosen and where you have sown your seeds. Prick out and pot on seedlings as required, Georgina says, but just make sure they are large enough to handle. “Sweet peas are hungry and thirsty plants, so make sure that you add plenty of compost to the area where they are to be planted,” she explains. “After, add some water to keep the soil moist but not drenched.” 4) Plant Out Once the sweet peas get around 10cm tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage the plants to bush out. Harden off your plants to gradually acclimatise them to outdoor growing conditions, then place them into their final growing positions in your garden once all risk of frost has passed in your area.
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Here's How Emily Cupit Sows Cornflower Seeds For An Annual Meadow Display
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow 1) Prepare The Site 2) Sow The Seeds 3) Keep The Soil Moist Cornflowers are popular plants for beds, borders and wildflower meadows. They are incredibly easy and low-maintenance annuals to grow in your garden and are wonderful for the wildlife with whom you share your space. Cornflowers are simply sown in spring, directly where they are to grow. Commonly, they are sown alongside other annual meadow plants like corn, marigolds, and poppies to create an annual meadow display. You can also directly sow them as companion plants in a vegetable garden. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, a rake When To Sow March-May or September When To Sow The seeds should be sown in spring or at the end of September. However, I would recommend that cornflower seeds should be directly sown where they are to flower in March or April. 1) Prepare The Site If you are interested in creating an annual meadow area or you are sowing wildflowers in your garden, you might have to sow seeds every year even though many of the plants self-seed. These planting schemes produce stunning displays of colour throughout 3-4 months of the year. You will need to make sure that you have a clear and weed-free area in full sun. “Fork the soil to the depth of the fork’s tines to ensure good drainage and then lightly rake back level,” says Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer on Horticulture at Bedford College. “The cool blues, purples and white tones of cornflowers can be lifted by planting colours that sit opposite them in the colour wheel, such as yellows and oranges. “Californian poppies fit this scheme and so do Eremurus, the foxtail lily, which could be planted bare-root into the same soil conditions as cornflower, at the same time as spring sowings. “Alternatively, select a mixed seed pack or a variety of cultivars.” 2) Sow The Seeds If you are sowing cornflowers as part of a more ordered bed or border, you might like to sow the seeds in rows. However, in most cases, cornflowers look best when broadcast over an area and covered over lightly using a rake. “Tamp down the soil with the back of the rake to ensure good consolidation,” advises Peter. Should you wish you can also grow cornflower seeds in propagation trays, though this is usually not necessary. Remember, you might use a cornfield annual meadow mix, with cornflowers mixed with other seeds. “If there is a lot of grass in the seed mix, a poorer soil is best, to restrict grass growth,” Peter adds. 3) Keep The Soil Moist Make sure that you keep the soil moist during dry spells until seeds germinate and while planting is young. Other than this, cornflowers will require little care. In ornamental beds or borders, you can stake tall, wiry cultivars in exposed locations, and deadhead in summer to prolong the period of blooming. However, in general, you can simply watch and enjoy through the summer months then leave flowers to set seed towards the end of the season as a feast for garden birds.
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As A Basic Rule, Sow Violas Indoors Around 10-12 Weeks Before Spring Planting
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Violas 1) Sowing Seeds Indoors 2) Sowing Seeds Directly Violas are a varied genus of plants that includes pansies, which are hybrids bred and derived from the Viola species. When we talk about violas in the UK, we are usually referring to the smaller-flowered and typically perennial flowering plants from which pansies were derived, not pansies themselves. Most commonly, we are talking about Viola tricolor or Viola odorata. Both of these can be grown from seed, though the latter can be more challenging and take longer to germinate. When sowing viola seeds, there are two main options: Sow indoors 10-12 weeks before spring planting. Sow directly in early spring or autumn. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray or pots, compost, propagator When To Sow Late winter or early spring When To Plant Out April-May When To Sow Violas Viola seeds can typically be sown indoors around 10-12 weeks before they are planted out into your garden in spring, after the last frost date in your area. There is also the option of directly sowing viola seeds in your garden, which you can do either in the early spring or in the autumn. The natural stratification process can help some violas to germinate more successfully. 1) Sowing Seeds Indoors Start preparing for indoors sowing around 10-12 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Prepare a seed tray or a container by filling it with a seed-starting growing medium. Sow the viola seeds on the surface of the growing medium then cover them lightly with a little more of the growing medium. Make sure the seeds are covered as they require dark conditions for germination. With most species, you can expect germination to take place within 2-3 weeks. Ensure the soil remains moist during the germination process but that waterlogging does not occur. A heat mat or heated propagator can aid the germination process. You should then prick out and pot on seedlings as required. You may need to use grow lights when starting indoors to make sure that the seedlings don’t become weak and leggy due to the lack of light for early sowings. By spring, when the time comes to harden them off and plant them out, they should be close to the size at which they will flower. 2) Sowing Seeds Directly You can also directly sow viola seeds in containers or growing areas outdoors in the autumn or the early spring. When sown in autumn, the seeds will undergo natural stratification over the winter and will then often germinate more successfully come spring. “When sowing directly outside, make sure to accurately mark where you have sown them,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Keeping the area seed-free will be critical to good germination.”
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Sow Calendula Seeds Effortlessly With Emily Cupit's Simple 3 Step Process
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Calendula 1) Prepare The Growing Area 2) Sow The Seeds 3) Plant Out Calendulas are one of the very best hardy annual flowers to grow in your garden. They are extremely attractive, great for wildlife, excellent companion plants for a range of plants and often reliably self-seed in the garden. They also provide, in their own right, a range of useful yields. Calendula seeds can be sown indoors or under cover, or directly sown where they are to grow. The seeds can be sown in spring, for blooms between June and September, or in autumn for flowers from around May to July. The process is very simple: Prepare a suitable growing area to directly sow outside or prepare seed trays or containers if preferred. Sow your calendula seeds by scattering them over the soil and covering with 1cm of soil or compost, or placing them in containers covered with 1cm of a peat-free seed-starting growing medium. If you have sown indoors or under cover, harden off and plant out seedlings between May and July. When To Sow Calendula While you can sow in spring or autumn, I tend to sow my calendula seeds in spring. “This approach avoids looking after seedlings all winter for the limited benefit of slightly earlier flowering,” says Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. You can choose to sow indoors from March, direct sow in April or May, or sow either indoors or directly in September or October. Calendulas are hardy and can cope with a little frost. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray or pots When To Prune March-May or September-October When To Plant Out May-July 1) Prepare The Growing Area Calendula seeds can be sown, like other annuals, into seed trays, toilet roll tubes, soil blocks or small pots, filled with a peat-free seed-starting compost. However, the best policy is generally to sow calendula seeds directly into prepared soil where they are to grow. Calendulas are quite unfussy plants but like moist yet free-draining soil in full sun or very light shade. I use them as companion plants in my vegetable garden. 2) Sow The Seeds If choosing not to directly sow, place seeds into your trays, blocks, modules or containers, around 1cm deep. I simply broadcast the seeds over an area of my beds or sow sparsely into rows, covering over lightly with homemade compost so they are around 1cm deep. Once the seedlings have germinated, I thin these to around 20cm apart. 3) Plant Out If you have not chosen to directly sow your calendulas, you can prick out and pot up if required, then harden off and plant out your young calendula plants between May and July, once the weather has begun to warm where you live. Direct sowing is by far the easiest choice, and calendula should thrive without much care and attention. Just make sure the soil remains moist but not waterlogged and these plants will more or less take care of themselves. Often, they will also do the work for you and seed themselves around your garden the following year.
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