Growing
Horticulturists Share 9 Uses For Ashes In The Garden That Might Surprise You
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Add To A Composting System 2) To Amend Acidic Soil 3) Spread On A Vegetable Garden 4) As An Organic Fertiliser 5) To Melt Ice On Paths And Patios 6) To Clean Greenhouse Glass 7) To Keep Garden Tools Clean 8) To Clean A Barbecue 9) To Protect Stored Seeds References If you have a fire or stove, you might be wondering whether you can make use of the ashes in your garden. The answer to whether you can use ashes in your garden very much depends on what has been burned. Ashes from a fire burning coal, coke or other fossil fuels cannot typically be used in the garden. Smokeless fuel ashes are also not suitable for use in a garden. Ashes from a coal or smokeless fuel fire should not be added to your garden as they contain a variety of trace elements and heavy metals that should not be used anywhere near where food is grown, and which may pose a threat to the environment. If, however, you only burn pure, untreated wood in your fireplace, wood burner or stove then the answer is yes, you certainly can use ashes in the garden. In fact, they have a range of interesting uses, but you do have to be careful about how and where you use them. Here are several ways you can use wood ash in your garden: 1) Add To A Composting System Wood ash is a wonderful addition to a composting system – but only in moderation. The key thing to remember is that wood ash is a very alkaline substance and will make the compost more alkaline.1 Sprinkling some wood ash into a composting system can help in adding potassium and other nutrients to the mix, but it is important not to add too much in one go. It is generally best to make sure that wood ash does not make up more than 5% of the compost and, of course, ashes must be cooled first.2 Make sure the wood ash is well mixed with plenty of other brown (carbon-rich) and green (nitrogen-rich) organic materials. 2) To Amend Acidic Soil As mentioned above, wood ash is an alkaline substance, and if you have acidic soil, wood ash can be added to the garden to reduce acidity. Acidic soil is not necessarily a problem, and in fact, very slightly acidic soil is optimal for most plants, but if you have acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 or lower then you may wish to amend it in order to improve nutrient availability and increase the number of plants that can be grown. Wood ash can be used to raise the pH of the soil in much the same way as lime can. It is typically spread directly on the soil in the late winter. The RHS says it should typically be added at a rate of between 50 and 70g per square metre.3 3) Spread On A Vegetable Garden Adding wood ash to a vegetable garden may be particularly beneficial where club root of brassicas is a problem. However, remember that though high acidity in soil can be a problem, high alkalinity can be a problem too. It is important to test soil pH before and regularly after applying wood ash to make sure that the pH does not become too high. Remember, not all plants will benefit from more alkaline conditions. Potatoes, for instance, can be more prone to potato scab in areas with alkaline pH levels, so it is not a good idea to add wood ash to an area where potatoes are to be grown in the following year. 4) As An Organic Fertiliser The nutrients that wood ash will contain will depend on the specific wood that was burned, and its age. As a general rule, older wood contains lower concentrations of nutrients than young sap-filled prunings that might be used as kindling. However, since wood ash will usually contain useful levels of potassium (on average around 3%), and other plant nutrients and minerals, this means that it can be useful in small quantities as an organic fertiliser.4 Small pieces of charcoal that may be present in wood ash can also work like little sponges, absorbing water and nutrients and keeping it around in the soil. Placing charcoal within a nutrient-rich environment makes biochar, which is a useful soil amendment that also helps keep carbon in the soil. Remember, however, that this alkaline substance can change the pH of the soil, so it is important to be careful not to use it excessively, or where the soil is already highly alkaline. Certain plants will benefit more than others from the addition of wood ash. Just remember not to add it around plants like blueberries and cranberries, or other plants which like acidic growing conditions. 5) To Melt Ice On Paths And Patios While it may become a bit messy, wood ash can also be sprinkled on paths and patios to melt ice and eliminate slipping hazards. Many people will use rock salt, but this is not the best thing for the environment. Rock salt has high concentrations of salt which can kill nearby plant life and may have a detrimental effect on wildlife.5 6) To Clean Greenhouse Glass A paste of wood ash can also be a rather effective cleaner. You may already know that smearing wood ash on the glass doors of a stove can get rid of any stubborn build-up, but you might also use the wood ash to get rid of any stubborn dirt on the windows of your greenhouse. 7) To Keep Garden Tools Clean Wood ashes qualities also mean that they can help you to keep your garden tools clean. Scrub to remove any stubborn dirt, then rinse, dry and where necessary, oil tools to keep them in good condition between uses. 8) To Clean A Barbecue Another place where wood ash can come in handy for cleaning is on a barbecue grill or the grill over a fire pit. Scrubbing with the ashes can help you keep the area clean and get rid of any stubborn grease and burnt material. 9) To Protect Stored Seeds Wood ash also has absorbing properties, so it can be useful to gardeners in keeping things dry in humid conditions. In particular, gardeners who save their own seeds may find it useful to sprinkle a little wood ash in with their stored seeds to prevent any problems with moisture and rotting. However, their use in seed storage is not always favoured by some Horticulturists such as Dan Ori: “It’s subjective that ashes would be beneficial for seed storage. “Personally, I advise against it as compounds may inhibit germination, introduce contaminates, and create potential pest habitat.” As you can see from the above, wood ash has a wide range of uses in the garden. One thing to note, however, is that while some people say that wood ash can also be used for pest control, repelling slugs, snails, rodents and a range of other pests, the pest control potential of wood ash is definitely overstated. Slugs happily cross wood ash, in spite of claims, and they certainly lose all efficacy against soft-bodied pests once even the slightest bit wet. While wood ash can be used in the garden, in most locations, it is unlikely that you will be able to use as much as you generate over the course of the winter months. Fortunately, there are plenty of other ways to make use of wood ash inside your home, including soap making, cleaning, polishing silver, deodorising and more. References 1. Jackson, A. C., & Odom, C. (2021). Wood ash and water: Cause of superficial alkaline burns in a toddler. Pediatric Dermatology, 38(4), 973–974. https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.14645 2. Guide to Using Wood Ash as an Agricultural Soil Amendment. (n.d.). Extension Field Specialist. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://extension.unh.edu/sites/default/files/migrated_unmanaged_files/Resource004042_Rep5718.pdf 3. Wood ash: using in the garden. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/wood-ash-using-in-garden 4. Dampier, J. (n.d.). Using Wood Ash in the Home Garden. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/using-wood-ash-in-the-home-garden/ 5. Queensland, C. O. S. O. (2013, October 1). Impacts of salinity. Queensland Government. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.qld.gov.au/environment/land/management/soil/salinity/impacts
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Compost vs Humus: What Are The Differences You Should Know?
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Compost? What Is Humus? Decomposition In The Creation Of Compost & Humus Adding Compost To Create A Humus-Rich Soil References Compost and humus are both substances which involve organic matter, but it is important to understand that they are not the same thing. In organic gardening, the health of the soil is one of the most important things, and knowing the difference between compost and humus can help us understand how soil is formed, and how to manage and care for it in our gardens most effectively. What Is Compost? Compost is a natural material formed as organic materials (fruit and vegetable scraps, garden trimmings and other compostable materials) start to break down.1 It can be created in nature, and also through our own agency, in a compost heap or bin. Composting begins with organic material – which begins to break down through the agency of micro-organisms, earthworms and other soil life. The quality of compost will depend very much on the materials which have gone into making it, and the speed at which the decomposition in home composting takes place will depend on the process that is used. A compost is typically said to be ‘finished’ when it is brown, with an earthy smell and few remaining signs of the original organic materials.2 But this material is far from stable and it is important to understand that a finished compost will break down further in the right conditions, releasing nutrients for the uptake of plants growing nearby as well as providing food for soil life. What Is Humus? Confusion arises because the term humus is used in different contexts to mean slightly different things. Sometimes, humus is used to refer to mature natural compost which has formed without human intervention, such as on a forest floor.3 It is therefore distinguished from compost by the source of the material. However, this is a looser use of the term and scientists will usually define humus more precisely. In agriculture and horticulture, the term humus is often used to refer to the ultimate result of natural decomposition.4 The term humus is also used to describe a topsoil horizon (soil layer) which contains soil organic matter. Humus is a stable component of healthy soil. The most important thing to understand is that humus, strictly speaking, is a later stage in the decomposition process, so all organic matter and composts can ultimately become humus over a longer period of time. Compost, in simple terms, is a work in process, while humus is the (often chemically stable) soil component that results from a further decomposition process. Humus will often remain in the soil for many years or will break down only very slowly, depending on the conditions.5 Compost can become humus, but this process can take a very long time. Decomposition In The Creation Of Compost & Humus Compost is a substance which is formed when organic materials begin to break down.6 Usually, this breakdown occurs aerobically. In other words, the materials break down in the presence of oxygen, with the aid of the micro-organisms which require oxygen to survive.7 Humus, a dark brownish organic material, forms in soil when plant or animal-derived matter (including your aerobic homemade compost) breaks down further. When we talk about a ‘finished’ compost, this is a rather misleading term, because the brown, friable, moist compost that we use in containers or as a soil amendment still contains a lot of material that remains to be broken down. “Compost is the beginning of the process of humus creation,” explains Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Adding compost to your soil as mulch annually means that the humification process is ongoing and that soil health is optimised. Over time, this will ensure that plant nutrients are in good supply and that moisture holding and drainage are improved.” There is typically still plenty of ‘food’ for microorganisms and nutrients for plants. The process for making both compost and humus begins with micro-organisms and other soil life which break down organic matter into minerals that the roots of plants can absorb as nutrients. This process, called mineralisation, takes place in composting and continues when compost is added to the soil.8 However, in certain conditions, a proportion of the organic matter does not mineralise and instead transforms into a series of stable organic polymers. The further breakdown of these materials through the agency of soil life over time is called humification.9 The humification process takes place in various stages, as different organic compounds decompose through a range of processes, involving a number of organisms. Once humification has occurred, microorganisms no longer affect the material, and this stable substance may be integrated into the structure of the soil, sequestering carbon within the soil ecosystem. However, while scientists have learned a lot about the nature of humus in recent years, the substance is still surprisingly little understood. Science is divided about exactly how stable soil organic carbon is in soil humus, and its complex composition makes analysis a challenge.10 It is clear, however, that humus is a crucial component in a healthy soil, often dubbed the ‘life force’ of the soil. Adding Compost To Create A Humus-Rich Soil Adding compost to the soil in your garden (by top dressing as a mulch in a no-dig garden) we are mimicking nature and allowing the materials to break down further through a range of natural processes. Eventually, humus will build in the soil, bringing a wide range of benefits. A healthy soil should contain organic material at different stages of decomposition, as well as all the organisms that work to keep cycles turning as they should. By adding organic mulches and compost to the soil, we provide the raw ingredients for the formation of a healthy humus-rich soil, which sequesters carbon, maintains healthy soil life populations, retains moisture, and increases the ability of the soil to store nutrients. Building healthy soil takes time, and creating a humus-rich soil is our goal. Using compost, along with other organic materials like well-rotted manures and chopped and dropped plant materials, helps us create the right environment for humification and other soil processes to take place. And, as all organic home growers should remember – healthy soil equals healthy plants. References 1. Composting. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/composting 2. Making compost. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/videos/advice/Making-compost 3. Organic matter: how to use in the garden. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/organic-matter-how-to-use-in-garden 4. Organic matter: what is it? (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/what-is-organic-matter 5. Fowler, A. (2022, August 15). Provide shade, make compost and leave the weeds: six ways to heatproof your garden. The Guardian. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2022/aug/15/six-ways-heatproof-garden-provide-shade-make-compost-leave-weeds 6. Making compost. (2010, July 29). BBC Gardening. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/basics/techniques/soil_makecompost1.shtml 7. Making Compost. (n.d.). RHS Masterclass. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/about-the-rhs/publications/the-garden/the-garden-back-issues/2014-issues/February/compost-masterclass.pdf 8. Ashwanden, C. (2017, August 11). Soil Mineralisation Part 1: What Do We Need To Add To Our Soils And Why? The Permaculture Research Institute. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.permaculturenews.org/2017/08/11/soil-mineralisation-part-1-need-add-soils/ 9. RHS Level 3 Question – Carbon Cycle. (2020, September 7). Edinburgh Garden School. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.edinburghgardenschool.com/2016/05/rhs-level-3-question-carbon-cycle/ 10. Dynamic Stability of Soil Carbon: Reassessing the “Permanence” of Soil Carbon Sequestration. (n.d.). Frontiers. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fenvs.2020.514701/full
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Compost vs Soil - They May Look Similar, But They’re Definitely Not The Same
IN THIS GUIDE What is Compost? What is Soil? Caring For Soil Why The Confusion? Choosing The Right Option Where to Use Compost Where to Use ‘Potting Soils’ Container Growing References Are you confused about the difference between compost and soil? You’re not alone. Learn about these two materials, and the reason for the confusion, in this simple guide. When looking at compost and soil, many people may just see ‘dirt’. But while compost and a soil may look similar, they are definitely not the same thing. Understanding what compost and soil are can help you to manage both composting systems and the soil effectively and organically in your garden. What is Compost? Compost is made up of decomposing and decomposed organic matter.1 In order to understand what this means, we need to delve a little deeper and talk about organic matter – Organic matter is: Something that both compost and healthy soil have in common. Derived from living things. In the simplest sense, it is dead plant matter, animals and animal waste. Present in both compost and soil. In essence, it can be helpful to think about organic matter as nature’s recycling system. When deciduous trees drop their leaves and herbaceous plants die back at the end of the year, the material is broken down through a range of processes on the soil surface. The nutrients those materials contain are fed back into the system. When we create compost, we are essentially trying to refine and shortcut that process. We can compost at home to turn biodegradable, compostable materials into a soil amendment and slow-release fertiliser which we can use in our gardens.2 What is Soil? While compost contains only organic matter in a state of decomposition (and the micro-organisms and other life that help break it down), the soil in your garden has a mineral component too. Healthy soil is made up of: Minerals (clay, silt, sand) Organic matter (to various degrees and in various states of decomposition) Water Air Organisms (from microscopic bacteria, fungi etc, to earthworms and other soil life) It is important to understand that soil is not simple. Soil is a complex ecosystem, a web of life with various fascinating and complex interactions.3 This is a natural phenomenon which is truly amazing, and something upon which all life on earth depends.4 Caring For Soil Taking care of the soil in your garden should be your number one priority as an organic gardener. Soil that is not cared for becomes degraded and depleted over time. All the elements in healthy soil work together to allow plant growth, which, in turn, allows us to grow too. Everything comes back to the soil. Adding compost to the natural soil in our gardens brings a range of benefits, both to us, as gardeners, and to the planet as a whole.5 This is one way to boost the soil organic matter, which raises the amount of carbon stored in the soil. Sequestering as much carbon as possible in the soil and in plants reduces the amount in the atmosphere, helping to combat global warming.6 Why The Confusion? When talking about homemade compost (which is added to soil) and soil itself, it is easy to see and understand the difference between these two materials. But confusion creeps in when we start to talk about the ‘potting soils’ or ‘potting composts’ that you can buy. “Compost is not a scientific term, so in horticulture, it is used to refer to a multitude of growing mediums as well as a process of breaking down garden waste to make a growing media,” shares Dan Ori, Horticultural Consultant and Instructor. “Because compost is not a scientific term, the interpretation of what true compost is could be said to be up to the individual. “For me, it will depend on the audience and the context of how I use the term compost. In the UK, I will normally refer to potting mix or growing media as ‘compost’ when giving a talk or workshop on the subject.” As Dan explains, the word compost is sometimes used to refer to ‘potting soils’ or ‘multipurpose composts’, but it should be noted that these are really rather different. A compost, as mentioned above, is made up exclusively of decomposing and decomposed plant material (and the life that breaks those materials down). A potting soil usually contains a proportion of compost, but it also has other materials in the mix. Many potting soils will contain mineral constituents, like sand, for example. Bought potting mixes may also contain other ingredients, like perlite, vermiculite, or additional synthetic or organic fertilisers. The problem is that while commonly referred to as ‘composts’, multipurpose or all-purpose composts are often not pure composts at all. As well as containing the decomposed and decomposing organic matter, they also contain other things. Choosing The Right Option It is important to understand the difference between true compost, and ‘potting soil’ or ‘multi-purpose compost’. A true compost can be made up of a range of different decomposed and decomposing organic matter. You can purchase composts which are made from woody waste, coir, green municipal waste, and a range of other organic materials. Peat based mixes should be avoided for environmental reasons. For environmental reasons, it is also best to avoid mixes which contain mined, finite materials.7 The most sustainable and eco-friendly option is to make your own potting mixes and soil amendments for your garden. It is also important to understand that ‘potting soils’ are not really soils either – many of these potting mixes are soil-free. And those that are soil or loam-based only contain a small proportion of soil, which is sterilised and which shares only some of the characteristics of the real soil in your garden. Where to Use Compost True compost, whether you buy it in or make your own, is used to enrich the soil in a garden, or as a component of a homemade potting mix. It should not be used on its own as a medium for filling containers. It typically needs to be mixed with other materials to create a stable mix which has the right water retention, drainage and aeration characteristics. Remember, this true compost should not be confused with the ‘multi-purpose’ composts that can be bought, which often contain these other materials already. These are commonly used not only as a soil amendment but also to approximate the characteristics of healthy soil in pots and containers. But the additional materials used can sometimes come at a cost, and quality can vary considerably. So it is important to be informed and to make the right choices, for the planet as well as for you, and the plants in your garden. Where to Use ‘Potting Soils’ A potting mix is specifically designed for filling containers, and is not as beneficial when added to the soil in your garden. While we can try to approximate natural, healthy soil in containers in a garden, there really is no substitute for a real, healthy garden soil that we build and care for over time. Container Growing Where we are growing in containers, we can simply aim to get as close as we can to approximate optimal soil growing conditions. Whether we make or buy a potting mix, our goal is to create a mix which, like healthy soil, helps plants grow as well and as healthily as possible. Remember, you can avoid the environmental harm of bought composts and potting mixes by making your own from the organic materials already present in your garden. You can create healthy, organic mixes for filling containers and to replenish the fertility in your garden soil. Set up a composting system, and compost in place through mulching and other no-dig gardening methods. Cherish and care for the soil in your garden. And stay as close to nature as possible when you are not actually growing in the soil by making your own potting mixes or buying healthy, organic, non-harmful options. “The environmental benefit of using homemade composts is significant and I would always avoid the use of shop-bought products containing peat due to the environmental impact of harvesting from peat bogs,” adds Dan. Sticking to real compost and real soil is often the best option of all. References 1. Composting. (n.d.-b). University of Illinois. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://extension.illinois.edu/soil/composting 2. Reducing the Impact of Wasted Food by Feeding the Soil and Composting. (2023, February 15). US EPA. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.epa.gov/sustainable-management-food/reducing-impact-wasted-food-feeding-soil-and-composting 3. A healthy soil is a living soil. (n.d.). Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.fao.org/soils-2015/news/news-detail/en/c/281917/ 4. Soil: the foundation of life on Earth. (2020, December 3). John Innes Centre. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.jic.ac.uk/advances/soil-the-foundation-of-life-on-earth/ 5. Cromell, C. (2016, March 26). Benefits of Adding Compost to Your Garden. Dummies. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dummies.com/article/home-auto-hobbies/garden-green-living/sustainability/composting/benefits-of-adding-compost-to-your-garden-194188/ 6. What is carbon sequestration? (2022, February 1). U.S. Geological Survey. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.usgs.gov/faqs/what-carbon-sequestration 7. The ethics of using peat. (2009, October 12). BBC Gardening. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/today_in_your_garden/ethical_peat.shtml
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No Dig Gardening Explained For Beginners: Experts Share The Benefits And Their Advice
IN THIS GUIDE What Is No Dig Gardening? No Dig Benefits No Dig Garden Bed Types Transforming An Existing Garden Bed Maintaining A No Dig Garden References Learn all about no dig gardening, this eco-friendly and sustainable organic gardening method. As you read about organic gardening, you will no doubt come across the term ‘no dig gardening’ or ‘no till’ and may wonder what it means. No dig gardening is not complicated, but it does depart from some ‘traditional’ gardening lore. “Some people think it’s a lazy form of gardening, but the truth is you must put a lot of effort into making your own compost, sourcing compost and collecting mulches,” says Garden Blogger Jenny Thompson. “Try shifting and spreading over 3,000 litres of compost onto beds and I can assure you it’s not for the idle gardener!” While some traditionalists may baulk at this idea, it is now increasingly apparent that gardening in this way is the best way to maintain a healthy and productive organic garden. What Is No Dig Gardening? No dig gardening is a term that is largely self-explanatory. In a no dig garden, you do not dig or till to prepare the soil in your growing areas or to work in organic matter. Instead, you lay organic matter on top of the soil and you let nature do the work for you. The goal is to leave the soil as undisturbed as possible. “No dig gardening – how did I not have that earlier in my life?” says Kate Cotterill, Organic Gardener. “It liberates you completely. Once you get your plants off the ground, it means you spend a lot less time digging over your garden and weeding.” “There are also so many other benefits to it.” Since the soil in a no-dig garden is left largely undisturbed, the complex web of soil life is allowed to thrive.1 And that life, from the earthworms to the microscopic bacteria and fungi, will slowly break down the organic matter and incorporate it into the soil. “I first started dabbling with nodig back in 2014 after my gardens flooded,” shares the Climate Gardener Kim Stoddart. “I realised how this approach could help to build soil structure to help the ground cope with more water than dug-over soil. There are so many benefits as we now know.” In no dig gardening we: Don’t dig or till wherever possible. Take steps to avoid soil compaction. Keep the soil covered with mulches or living plants at all times, keeping a living root in the soil as frequently as we can. “I think once you understand even a little about soil biology, it’s hard to refute the principles of no-dig,” says Jenny. “With no dig, we practice minimal soil disturbance. This allows the organisms within the soil to flourish. “The web of life that exists within healthy soil is mind-blowing. One teaspoon of healthy soil can contain more microorganisms than there are people on the planet.” Understanding Organic Matter If you are new to gardening, you might not be familiar with the term organic matter. This is a term that it is vital to understand if you are trying to garden successfully in an organic, sustainable way. Organic matter is material containing carbon that derives from living things. In general terms, it is dead plant or animal matter, and animal waste.2 Soil organic matter is one component of a healthy, living soil. And gardeners add organic matter to improve the soil and add fertility. The types of organic matter added to soil might be brown organic matter: composts, manures and rotted dried leaves (leaf mould). They might be green organic matter – green leaves, vegetable scraps etc. Learning how to add more organic matter in your garden is always crucial to success. It might be helpful to think about the organic matter as “nature’s recycling”.3 Adding organic matter to the soil surface in your garden growing areas mimics the natural processes which take place in nature on a forest or woodland floor. The leaves fall, and begin to decay, and the complex web of soil life returns the nutrients they contain to the system. No dig gardening is about harnessing this natural process to create a closed-loop, natural system in your cultivated garden. “No dig works with nature, not against it and helps to make gardening more accessible for many people,” says Stephanie Hafferty, an Organic Gardener. No Dig Benefits Understanding why no dig gardening is a good idea involves understanding soil. Soil is far more than just ‘dirt’. Healthy soil is a living ecosystem, which we depend upon for almost all our gardening endeavours. It is made up of: Minerals Air Water Organic Matter Living Organisms No dig gardening is the best approach to keep these elements in balance, and the precious soil ecosystem functioning as it should. “All plants love it,” shares No-Dig Pioneer Charles Dowding. “An easy one for starting in springtime is potatoes or garlic (cloves) in October.” Remember, without the soil, we could not grow anything in our gardens. “No dig gardening protects mycorrhizae, other fungal networks and soil life (bacteria, nematodes etc) which creates excellent growing conditions for plants,” says Stephanie. “Digging destroys this vital ecosystem.” We rely on the soil for so much, so we should always be sure to take care of it. Environmental When we dig or till the soil, and when we leave it bare, we cause damage to this ecosystem. The soil can more easily lose its nutrients, be eroded by wind and rain and become compacted or overly saturated.4 When we disturb the soil, the beneficial organisms working away below the surface decrease, and the fertility of the soil slowly diminishes over time.5 We now know that the no-dig approach helps the microbiome in the soil, so your plants are, in turn, healthier,” says Kate. “This also means you can grow plants closer together, as the soil is richer in nutrients and retains water well, which is better for the environment.” Research from IPCC has confirmed that tilled or dug soil also becomes an emitter of carbon and greenhouse gases.6 Their work found that tilled soil produced 31% greater Global Warming Potential than non-tilled soil (on an area basis). So no dig gardening can also help you play a role in tackling our climate crisis. By keeping soil covered and avoiding disturbance and bare soil, a no dig gardening approach increases the amount of carbon stored in the soil in your garden – keeping it out of the atmosphere where it causes global warming. Increasing Yields What is more, no dig gardening can often be easier for the gardener too, since you will avoid the back-breaking work involved in digging garden beds manually. Gardeners and researchers are discovering that taking a no dig approach can increase yields and enhance species diversity over time.7 This is the most effective way to build new garden growing areas and to maintain existing beds and borders. No Dig Garden Bed Types If you would like to create a new growing area in your garden, there are several different ways to do so if you are taking a no dig approach. The most common options are: Lasagne Gardens Hugelkultur Straw Bale Gardens Lasagne Gardens A lasagne garden is a no dig bed which is, essentially, a type of composting. The idea is to layer organic matter on top of the soil. Since (just like in a composting system) you add different layers, the idea is called ‘lasagne gardening’. Just as you would build up the layers in the classic Italian dish, so too, in a lasagne garden, you layer up the natural ingredients to prepare your growing area. To make a lasagne garden you: Mark out the area for your new bed, adding bed edging if you wish to keep things neat. Remember that you can use a range of natural or reclaimed materials as bed edging. Make sure that you can easily reach all parts of the bed, so you will not step on and compact it. Layer untreated cardboard over the soil (or grass if you are creating the area over a lawn). Add a layer of carbon rich material (wood chips, dry leaves, straw, bracken etc.) over the cardboard. Aim for around 5cm in depth. Next, add a 5cm layer of nitrogen rich material (green leaves, manure, vegetable scraps etc.) Continue to layer carbon rich and nitrogen rich materials until your bed is at least 35cm deep (or the required height for the raised bed). Add a final layer of good quality compost, topsoil or loam into which you can plant. Water the area well, making sure that the layers are all moistened. Plant up your new raised bed. Mulch around the plants with a suitable organic mulch. Different plants will require different mulches, since different types of organic matter will have different properties and provide different nutrients. Hugelkultur Hugelkultur is another type of no dig raised bed. The word hugelkultur comes from the German for ‘mound culture’.8 A hugelkultur bed is a mounded bed which is built up in much the same way as a lasagne bed – with one key difference. Before the layers are added, as above, a central core of rotting wood is created. This core forms the skeleton of the new growing area, creating a hilled shape, usually at least 50cm and sometimes up to 1.5m or more high at the centre, rather than a flat-topped bed. The wood slowly decomposes and the mound will sink over time, but as it does so, it will retain plenty of moisture, and harbour plenty of beneficial life. Another benefit of hugelkultur is that it increases the growing area available. The mounded shape also provides different environmental conditions, so that a number of different plants with different needs can be grown in a smaller area. Plants that prefer sunnier conditions can be placed on the south or west side of the mound, and those which like less sun to the south or east. Moisture-loving plants will thrive near the base of the sides, while those with deeper roots, and/or more drought tolerance, go at the top. Once the central core is created, you should proceed to add the outer layers as above. You can then plant up the mound to stabilise the sloping sides right away. Straw Bale Gardens One other interesting idea to consider is straw bale gardening. As the name suggests – this involves growing plants in the tops of straw bales, rather than in the soil. Strawbales can sometimes be found free of charge from local farms as an agricultural byproduct, or (more commonly) purchased for a small price. The bales can simply be placed where you wish your new growing area to go. They will break down over time and can be contained with bed edging for a neater appearance. The bales should then be watered with a compost tea or other nitrogen-rich feed to begin the process of decomposition – and topped with a layer or with planting pockets of good quality compost into which plants can be placed. Experienced Horticulturist Dan Ori does offer a word of warning though: “Although straw can be a good growing medium it can take a lot of water to work well. “Both straw, hugelkultur, and lasagne beds with straw can encourage high slug and snail populations. “If you already have an abundance of slugs and a shortage of water, my recommendation would be to try a layering system, adding additional well-rotted garden compost on top after each harvest. “You will need plenty of compost with no-dig, so to save buying in too much, get composting quick!” Transforming An Existing Garden Bed Even if you do not want to create a new growing area, you can still get started with no dig gardening. Converting to no dig simply involves sheet mulching – laying organic matter over the soil surface to protect it and gradually improve it over time. Mulching “The best tip for no-dig gardening is just mulch, mulch and more mulch,” explains Jenny. “Ideally, lay a thick layer of homemade compost once a year, but I also use grass clippings, fallen leaves and even seaweed (rinsed first to wash excess salt off).” Any areas of bare soil should be covered – either with living plants or with organic mulches. Remember, mulches should be chosen with reference to the plants already growing in the area. Generally, the best time to add a mulch is in the spring, though mulches can be added at any time of the year. If you are sheet mulching around existing plants, there is one important thing to remember – keep the mulch away from the trunks or stems of the plants. Mulch piled around the base of plants can cause them to rot. Heavier mulches with woody material are best restricted to perennial shrubs and trees, since woody material will sequester nitrogen (one of the essential plant nutrients) as it breaks down. Though you can add woody material as part of a mixed mulch as long as there is also plenty of nitrogen-rich material to provide the additional nitrogen required. It is often a good idea to grow plants that provide you with materials for mulches. Many plants grow quickly and are good at accumulating certain specific nutrients. Plants that are good at gathering certain nutrients are called dynamic accumulators.9 These can be chopped and dropped as mulches around existing plants. But the most important resource to have in a no dig garden is a good quality compost and of course, it is much cheaper, easier and more eco-friendly if you make your own. Maintaining A No Dig Garden Once you have created a no dig gardening area, maintenance is all about keeping the soil covered with plants and mulches and building up new layers of organic matter over the area over time. Usually, mulches will be replenished each spring, just before the start of the main growing season – compost will often be added when switching out crops in rotation. Other mulches may also be added for specific purposes and at specific times. Placing a mulch of potassium-rich comfrey leaves around tomatoes when they begin to set fruit is one example. “Mulching is a resilient must and can help further boost soil health and lock in moisture into the ground to make it easier on plants and gardeners during a period of heat,” adds Kim. “You can use all sorts of materials you might already have to hand, such as compost, woodchips, leaf mold, grass clippings, compost, cardboard, wool, seaweed or even nibbled plant leaves – it all helps!” Weeding Weeding is much reduced in a no dig garden, since mulches suppress weed growth. And since the soil is not disturbed, fewer weed seeds are exposed to the light and germinate. But you may well still need to weed here and there in a no dig garden. Weeds are usually lightly hoed, or pulled by hand little and often. Planting Consistency Remember that it is always best to keep living plants in the soil as much as possible, as Kim explains: “I would recommend trying to use ground cover plants as much as you can to further protect soil from drying out. “Also consider what I call a free-planting approach, which basically means leaving a lot of space (about 6ft) between many plants of the same family to help reduce the risk of pests and airborne fungi, both of which are a major threat with climate change.” This means thinking about successional sowing throughout the growing season, and about placing cover crops or green manures in the ground over the winter months or during gaps in rotation. No dig gardening is a great choice for any organic garden. There is of course more to learn, but this beginner’s guide should help you get started in your garden. References 1. No Dig Gardening. (2023, February 16). Garden Organic. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/expert-advice/garden-management/soil/the-nodig-method 2. Funderburg, E. (2001, August). What Does Organic Matter Do In Soil? Noble Research Institute. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.noble.org/news/publications/ag-news-and-views/2001/august/what-does-organic-matter-do-in-soil/ 3. Nature’s nutrient cycle. (2019, September 30). European Environment Agency. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.eea.europa.eu/signals/signals-2019-content-list/infographics/agriculture/view 4. Begum, T. (2021, April 16). Soil degradation: the problems and how to fix them. Natural History Museum. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.nhm.ac.uk/discover/soil-degradation.html 5. Gray, R. (n.d.). Why soil is disappearing from farms. BBC. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.bbc.com/future/bespoke/follow-the-food/why-soil-is-disappearing-from-farms/ 6. Mangalassery, S., Sjögersten, S., Sparkes, D. L., Sturrock, C. J., Craigon, J., & Mooney, S. J. (2015). To what extent can zero tillage lead to a reduction in greenhouse gas emissions from temperate soils? Scientific Reports, 4(1). https://doi.org/10.1038/srep04586 7. Grosvenor, G. (2020, July 19). No-dig gardening and chaos planting yields many rows of surprises. Whitchurch Herald. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.whitchurchherald.co.uk/news/18590842.no-dig-gardening-chaos-planting-yields-many-rows-surprises/ 8. Henderson, J. (2022, December 16). Hügelkultur Gardening. EcoFarming Daily. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.ecofarmingdaily.com/eco-farming-index/hugelkultur-gardening/ 9. Kitsteiner, J. (2015, April 10). The Facts about Dynamic Accumulators. The Permaculture Research Institute. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.permaculturenews.org/2015/04/10/the-facts-about-dynamic-accumulators/
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Perlite vs Vermiculite: What Are The Differences And Which Is The Best Choice?
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Perlite? What Is Vermiculite? Should You Choose Perlite Or Vermiculite? Why Neither Is A Sustainable Choice Alternative Options References Perlite and vermiculite are both used to improve aeration and drainage in bought and homemade potting mixes. But what exactly are perlite and vermiculite? What are the differences between them? And is either one really the best choice for your needs? Read on to find out more about these two materials. What Is Perlite? When perlite is heated to temperatures of 860-900°C the water trapped within the structure vaporises and escapes.1 This makes the material expand to as much as twenty times its original size.2 It is sometimes used as a medium for hydroponic systems. Perlite is pale white in appearance, and when you look closely you can see small pockets, cracks and pores in the surface of each piece. What Is Vermiculite? Vermiculite is a mineral that forms naturally due to the weathering or alteration of biolite or phlogopite. This mineral is heated by processing in huge industrial tube furnaces at 1,000°C for a few minutes.3 This causes the structure to expand into long, worm-like strands, an expansion process called exfoliation. Now, this group of minerals are also commonly used as an amendment for soil or potting mixes. Vermiculite is a pale brownish or beige colour and if you look closely, you will be able to see that it has thin layers throughout. Should You Choose Perlite Or Vermiculite? Both perlite and vermiculite can improve drainage in a growing medium or soil and both can improve aeration. However, there are differences between these two materials and where they are used: Best For Drainage Perlite has a fissured and cratered surface which does hold some water on the outside, but it holds on to little water, mainly allowing it to slide off. Perlite is therefore very good for drainage, and not particularly beneficial for water retention. This means it is good for plants like cacti and succulents which require free-draining conditions. Best For Moisture Retention Vermiculite, on the other hand, while it can also aid with drainage to a degree, will hold and store water within its layers. It works a little like a sponge and will absorb water and expand in size. It will then slowly release the water it has absorbed over time. Because it can retain moisture well, without causing waterlogging issues, it is often used in seed starting growing media, as well as growing media for cuttings which can be vulnerable to drops in humidity and soil moisture. Best For Aeration Perlite has pores inside which are filled with air – in fact, a large percentage of the material is made up of these air pockets. So this is one of the best materials to improve aeration. While vermiculite can improve aeration to a degree by breaking up the soil and allowing air to flow through, it is not as good at providing aeration as perlite. Best For Nutrient Provision Vermiculite may not be as effective for aeration, but it is better in one other way. Perlite has no cation exchange capacity.4 In other words, it does not interact with the soil or potting mix to provide nutrients for plants. Vermiculite, on the other hand, contains nutrients like potassium, magnesium and calcium which it can give to plants.5 Why Neither Is A Sustainable Choice A perlite mine in Hungary However, while, as you can see above, both perlite and vermiculite have benefits as soil amendments, neither is a sustainable choice. Both perlite and vermiculite are finite resources, not renewable ones. Mining these materials is an extractive industry which can do a lot of environmental harm.6 Processing the materials involves intense heating, usually using fossil fuels. So both materials come at a high carbon cost. There is also a carbon cost associated with transporting these materials from extraction points around the world to the UK. So it is important to consider alternative options if you prefer to avoid harmful materials and garden in a sustainable way. Alternative Options If you are trying to garden in a more eco-friendly and sustainable way, then it is a good idea to avoid using materials that come at too great a cost. Neither perlite or vermiculite is essential for soil or potting mixes. Creating healthy soil or healthy potting mixes using plenty of organic matter – ideally from your own garden or nearby, is the best way to grow plants sustainability wherever you live. Drainage Instead of using perlite, consider using recycled horticultural grit or horticultural sand to improve drainage. “When I need to increase drainage, I use a horticultural grit that is derived from the waste of local quarrying and rock processing,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “There is still energy used and carbon dioxide emitted in its transport and probably in its grading. “Increasingly, I’m opting for fine bark products instead, which I’ve been impressed with. Again, there’s transport involved but the product is far lighter. “There are also possibilities for creating it myself through composting and grading wood chips.” These do not have precisely the same properties but will work for many applications. Moisture Retention Rather than using vermiculite to improve moisture retention, use coconut coir, or, better yet, locally available organic materials like bark, leaf mould and good quality composts. Aeration Adding organic matter can improve aeration in heavy soils and potting media. Outdoors in the garden, adopting a no-dig approach and letting earthworms and other soil biota do their work will also help. Rice husks are agricultural byproducts that can also be used to improve aeration in containers. Nutrient Provision Organic matter will slowly break down and add nutrients to the soil, in addition to keeping soil or potting mixes optimal in other ways. So for a sustainable, organic garden, if you wish to create the perfect growing conditions, incorporating more organic matter is always always the answer. References 1. Kuntz, C. (2022, November 10). Why Perlite Works. Perlite Institute. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.perlite.org/why-perlite-works/ 2. Perlite. (2017, May 26). Minerals Education Coalition. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://mineralseducationcoalition.org/minerals-database/perlite/ 3. Vermiculite – An Overview. (n.d.). Science Direct. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780444519979500040?via%3Dihub 4. Horticultural Growing Mediums and Soil Amendments. (n.d.). Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.ndsu.edu/pubweb/chiwonlee/plsc211/student%20papers/articles09/alex%20hill/ahill%202/ahill/ahill.html 5. Vermeulen, J. (2021, March 30). Cation Exchange Capacity in Vermiculite. Dicalite Management Group. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.dicalite.com/2021/03/cation-exchange-capacity-vermiculite/ 6. Petrovic, K. (2016, November 27). How The Sustainability Movement Impacts Growing Media. Greenhouse Grower. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.greenhousegrower.com/production/media/how-the-sustainability-movement-impacts-growing-media/
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Horse Manure Is Best Used In The Garden Only After Being Composted - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Why Use Horse Manure Compost? Horse Manure Properties Sourcing Horse Manure Why It Must Be Composted Before Use How To Compost Horse Manure How & Where To Use It In The Garden References Using horse manure in your garden can help maintain fertility – but it is best used only after it is thoroughly composted. In this article, we will explore this mucky issue in a little more depth, including why you might wish to use horse manure compost in your garden. We will delve into the properties of this useful organic material and explore where you might source horse manure if you do not keep horses yourself. And whether or not you do keep horses yourself, we will run through how to compost horse manure so you can use it, and how and where to use it once you have. Read on to get one step closer to using horse manure to create a healthy organic garden. Why Use Horse Manure Compost? Like other manures, and other home compost, horse manure compost is an organic material that can help you take care of the soil in your garden and provide the plants you grow with the nutrients they need. Horse manure will improve the nutrient content of the soil, and improve its structure. It will help ameliorate drainage and compaction issues with heavy clay soils. Using horse manure compost in your garden will also improve the soil’s ability to retain moisture and can be especially useful to improve free-draining soils too. What is more, using organic material like horse manure can help you sequester carbon in the soil in your garden – so you will be doing your part in combatting our climate crisis. Horse Manure Properties If you are using manure in your garden, it is important to understand that different manures have different nutrient profiles and characteristics. They have different levels of NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) – the three key plant nutrients. Horse manure typically contains around the same amount of nitrogen as sheep manure. It typically has a little less nitrogen than rabbit manure and chicken manure, but a little more than cattle manure and more than a typical homemade compost. It does not contain as much phosphorus as other manures but does usually have more than material from your compost heap or bin. In terms of potassium, horse manure will typically compare favourably to other manures, though sheep manure will typically have a little more. The nutrient profile of horse manures can vary significantly, depending on the source, what horses are fed etc. However, NPK values for horse manure can typically be around 0.5% nitrogen, 0.3% phosphorus and 0.4% potassium – to give a general idea.1 Many gardeners consider horse manure to be the finest manure to use in a garden, especially fine when combined with straw bedding to create compost. However, it is worth noting that one downside to horse manure is that it does tend to be full of seeds. Which can increase the amount of weeding you have to do if it is not first composted correctly. Sourcing Horse Manure If you have your own horses, then of course you will already have horse manure on hand. If you do not, you might wonder where you can get your hands on some for your garden. You will usually be able to source horse manure compost from a reputable supplier online. You may also be able to make an arrangement to collect either composted horse manure or horse manure that you can compost yourself at home if you reach out to local equestrian centres, riding schools, stables, farms, or rural horse owners in your area. However, when sourcing horse manure, it is important to make sure that the horses were reared sustainably, and that the horse manure does not contain substances that may pose a risk to your health, or to the environment. This is especially important, of course, if you are growing food in your garden. Why It Must Be Composted Before Use Horse manure must be composted before use for a range of reasons. The first reason is that fresh manure of most types can bring pathogenic risks to you and other members of your household.2 Fresh manure can harbour bacteria which can be dangerous.3 The second reason is that fresh manure is usually too ‘hot’ to use directly around your plants. It is very high in nitrogen and while all plants need nitrogen (along with phosphorus, potassium and a range of micro-nutrients) to grow, too much nitrogen can scorch or even kill your plants.4 The only manure that can usually be used directly in the garden is rabbit manure.5 One additional reason to compost horse manure before use is that, as mentioned above, horse manure is typically full of weed seeds, which can germinate and cause excessive weed growth in your garden. Composting at sufficiently high temperatures can kill seeds and prevent this problem from occurring. How To Compost Horse Manure When you have your own horses, or source un-composted manure, you will need to compost it yourself before you use it. First things first, remember the standard rules for good composting: For composting, you need to create conditions for micro-organisms to thrive, with the right temperatures, good aeration, and enough moisture but not too much. You need to add materials in the right ratio – balancing out the nitrogen-rich materials (like the horse manure) with carbon-rich materials (woody material, straw, dried leaves etc.). Sometimes, the bedding used for the horses will serve well as the carbon-rich composting material. Utilising Hot Composting A hot composting system is recommended for composting horse manure. Cold composting will take longer (around a year) and pathogens and weed seeds in the horse manure may still not be dealt with as effectively. In a hot composting system, you will aim to achieve temperatures of at least between around 60 and 70°C inside the heap or bin over a sustained period of time. The carbon to nitrogen ratio is important: For best results, you should aim to add twice as much carbon-rich material as manure (by volume), or aim for a carbon-nitrogen ratio of around 25:1 (by weight), though this is just a rough rule of thumb. “I use a bag or two of horse manure a month to mix with vegetable waste,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Whether the bedding is saw dust or straw, this tends to provide a good ratio of carbon to nitrogen. “Without the addition of carbon from the bedding, the kitchen waste would tend to be too high in nitrogen relative to carbon.” Turn your compost to keep it sufficiently aerated and cover it during heavy rain to prevent excessive nutrient leaching. How Long Does It Take? Depending on a range of specifics, horse manure in a hot composting system can be ready to use in as little as a couple of months. How & Where To Use It In The Garden Horse manure compost can be used just as you would use any other composted material in your growing areas. Traditionally, gardeners dig well-rotted manure into their soil. However, we recommend taking a no-dig approach, which helps keep the soil ecosystem intact. In no-dig gardening, compost is not dug in, but is spread as a mulch over the surface of the soil. Simply add a layer of horse manure compost around your plants or across garden beds to prepare them in the early spring. It can also be done in autumn in preparation for a winter crop. Aim to create a layer around 5-8cm deep. Earthworms and micro-organisms will do the digging in for you, and over time, the organic material will be incorporated into the soil. You can also top-dress raised beds, planters and containers in the same way. You can also use horse manure compost, just like any other compost, to make a liquid plant feed for your organic garden. Simply add composted horse manure to some water, strain the mix, and use it to give a boost to leafy plants. References 1. The Poop on Manure. (2021, January 24). West Coast Seeds. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.westcoastseeds.com/blogs/wcs-academy/poop-manure 2. Pathogens and Organic Matter. (2017, April 14). UNL Water. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://water.unl.edu/article/animal-manure-management/pathogens-and-organic-matter 3. Zona-Mendola, C. (2020, August 3). Manure Meandering – Read This Before You Plant Your Veggies. The Lange Law Firm. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.makefoodsafe.com/manure-meandering-read-this-before-you-plant-your-veggies/ 4. Beecher, C. (2018, May 30). No quick or easy answers for using raw manure on food crops. Food Safety News. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.foodsafetynews.com/2018/05/no-quick-or-easy-answers-for-using-raw-manure-on-food-crops/ 5. Bunny honey: Using rabbit manure as a fertilizer. (2016, September 1). MSU Extension. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/bunny_honey_using_rabbit_manure_as_a_fertilizer
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Horticulturists Explain Why Ericaceous Compost Is A Must For Acidic-Loving Acers
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Ericaceous Compost? What Are Acers? Do You Always Need To Use Ericaceous Compost For Acers? Deciding Where To Grow Acers Understanding Your Soil Type Choosing A Potting Mix For Acers DIY Acer Potting Mix References Acers are trees that like acidic pH levels, so using ericaceous compost can sometimes help keep them healthy and give them the growing conditions they need. However, while most Acers do enjoy acidic conditions, many are surprisingly tolerant of neutral or even alkaline soils, as long as their roots receive sufficient moisture and oxygen. When growing in containers, using ericaceous compost for Acers can be optimal. However, when growing in the ground in your garden, special ericaceous compost may not actually be required. What Is Ericaceous Compost? Ericaceous compost is a growing medium that has a low pH, which makes it suitable for acid-loving plants. Compost is made up of decomposed or partially decomposed organic matter. Sometimes, the term is also used to refer to potting mixes, or growing media. But technically, potting mixes are made up of compost plus other materials. Both ericaceous composts and ericaceous potting mixes can be useful when growing Acers and other acid-loving plants in your garden. Though it is important to remember that composts and potting mixes are not exactly the same thing. An ericaceous compost might be used as a mulch to improve the soil and add fertility around acid-loving plants grown in the ground. It might also be used to top up containers when repotting Acers or other plants which enjoy acidic conditions. It will also often be used alongside a loam-based potting mix or growing medium to fill the containers in which Acers will be grown. What Are Acers? Acers belong to a diverse genus of trees which includes large trees (maples, and the sycamore), and small trees which are really more like shrubs (including the ever-popular Japanese Acers: Acer palmatum). Acer palmatum A. palmatum are attractive small trees that are perfect for small gardens and container growing. There is great variety in the leaf colour and foliage of these Acers, and they are highly prized for their foliage colours and autumn hues. Do You Always Need To Use Ericaceous Compost For Acers? Acer palmatum, and other Japanese maples, when grown in your garden, may not require soil amendment to alter pH. If you have a soil which is reasonably moist yet free-draining and not compacted, these trees should endure even where the conditions are neutral or even slightly alkaline in pH. Many refer to the excellent Westonbirt arboretum as proof that Acers can thrive in any conditions – where many Acers thrive in the Cotswolds’ limestone soil.1 However the truth is not quite so straightforward, as experienced Horticulturist Dan Ori explains: “People often quote the Acers at Westonbirt arboretum as proving that they can grow on non-acid soils, but firstly not all are Japanese maples, and secondly there is a difference between tolerating with lots of help and years to adapt, rather than thriving from the moment it is planted. “Japanese Acers will tolerate most soil types but only really do well in acidic moist but not wet soil.”2 So, while these trees are not as sensitive to soil pH as many other ericaceous plants, when growing Acers in containers, using ericaceous compost will likely yield the best results. Deciding Where To Grow Acers Japanese maple shrub growing in a container If you have particularly alkaline soil, then you will likely do best if you grow Acers in containers. Otherwise, you can generally place them in the ground in your garden. Think about all the different environmental factors when choosing the best location – not just the soil pH. They can thrive in full sun, dappled shade or partial shade. Typically, they will do best in a sheltered spot, though most cultivars can cope with some wind exposure. These trees are much less fussy than a lot of people think. If you have a heavy clay soil, make sure you amend it with plenty of organic matter to improve soil structure and drainage before you plant your Acer. Understanding Your Soil Type In order to decide whether you need to grow Acers in containers or you can grow in the ground, your first step should be to determine your soil pH. You can get clues about the soil in your garden from the plants already growing there and their needs, and get a rough idea about whether it is acidic, neutral or alkaline from simple home tests with vinegar and bicarbonate of soda. But to determine the pH, you will need to get a soil testing kit. If your soil pH is much above 7, it is alkaline and it may be better to grow Acers and other ericaceous plants, if you wish to grow them, in containers. Learn more about soil testing in this guide. Choosing A Potting Mix For Acers Fine compost If you decide to grow Acers in containers – for whatever reason – it is important to choose a growing medium to optimise conditions and ensure that the small trees remain as healthy as possible. A 50-50 mix of ericaceous compost and John Innes No 3 is generally thought to be the best option. John Innes No. 3 is a nutrient-rich loam-based potting mix that is used to establish shrubs and trees and plants which will be kept in their containers for a long period of time. DIY Acer Potting Mix If you want to make a similar potting mix yourself, it is made up of: 7 parts sterilised loam 3 parts peat substitute (coir, leaf mould, woody compost) 2 parts loose sand Mix these ingredients at a ratio of 1:1 with an ericaceous compost which you buy (or make using more acidic organic matter, which can yield more varied results). Acidic materials for an ericaceous compost include leaves, especially oak, pine needles, citrus, onions, sawdust from fresh-cut wood. Note that pH will return to a more neutral level over time. Sulphur is sometimes added to containers for ericaceous plants to provide more acidic conditions over time. However, since Acers are not usually fussy, this is not essential in their case. To summarise – while this mix is said to be optimal, Japanese maples, or Acers will also usually grow fine in a typical loam-based compost. “Unlike most acid-loving plants, Japanese maples are more tolerant of higher pH – often surviving in alkaline soils,” says Dan Ori. “But if you have alkaline soil then it is advised to grow them in ericaceous compost or choose an alternative Acer that thrives in lime/alkaline soil like Acer campestre ‘Nanum’.” References 1. Ballard, M. (n.d.). Westonbirt, The National Arboretum. Westonbirt Forest Design Plan. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.forestryengland.uk/sites/default/files/documents/Westonbirt%20Forest%20%28Arboretum%29%20Design%20Plan%202021-2030-merged-compressed_0.pdf 2. Hansen, S. M. (n.d.). Maples in the Landscape. Utah State University. https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/extension_curall/2188/
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Gardeners List 72 Special Ericaceous Plants That Love Acidic Soil
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Have Acidic Soil? Home Testing Acidic Soil Benefits Plants For Acidic Ericaceous Soil Trees Shrubs Edible Plants Flowers Grasses Ferns Acidic soil is sometimes seen as an impediment, but it can also be seen as an opportunity to grow plants that love acidic ericaceous soil. Rather than trying to amend your garden to fit the plants you like, it is almost always the best policy to choose plants that suit the conditions in your garden. That means that if you have acidic soil, you choose plants that love acidic, ericaceous soil – or at least plants that will tolerate those conditions. “There are true ericaceous plants that will only grow in acidic conditions, such as Erica, Rhododendron and Camellia, and plants that can grow in acidic conditions but can also grow in neutral or alkaline conditions,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Using the latter category of plants can really extend your options if your garden has acidic soil.” In this article, you will find a list of some plants that will work well if you have acidic soil in your garden. In any garden, the soil pH will either be acidic, neutral or alkaline. If the pH is much below 7, your soil is acidic and the plants listed below could all be an excellent choice. If your soil has a pH below 5, it is extremely acidic and some remediation might be required. Do You Have Acidic Soil? First things first, work out whether you actually do have acidic soil in your garden. The easiest way to check is with a pH test; these are fairly affordable to buy online. The pH may vary even from one part of your garden to another, so to get more reliable results you should take readings from more than one spot. Home Testing You can also do a simple home test to see if your soil is acidic – this will not tell you your soil pH level, but could give you more of a clue about conditions in your garden. Simply mix some soil with water to make a muddy mix, then add bicarbonate of soda. If the baking soda froths up, this dictates that the soil is acidic. If instead, the soil mix reacts when vinegar is added then it is alkaline. Another way to get some clues about the soil in your garden is to simply look around. The plants already growing in your garden and your neighbour’s gardens could help you work out which plants will thrive and what soil conditions are like. Acidic Soil Benefits If you do have acidic soil, especially soil that is mildly acidic, then this is wonderful. Extremely acidic soil can be a problem, because most plant nutrients will be washed away more easily. Phosphates will be less available to plants. And when acidity is even more extreme, bacteria cannot rot organic matter and there are far fewer nutrients available to plants. But mildly acidic soil is beneficial and in fact, a slightly acidic soil might be close to 6.5, which is said to be the very best pH for gardens. Plants For Acidic Ericaceous Soil But with acidic soil, which plants should you choose? Here are some lists that might help you to begin to find the right plants for your garden: Trees First of all, when planning a garden, one of the things that you should think about is trees. There are trees which will suit even the smallest of gardens. Here are some trees which like or at least can easily tolerate acidic soil conditions: Alder Acers Beech Cedar Dogwood Douglas Fir Magnolias Pin oak Rowan Willows Shrubs Once you have any trees in place, you should next move on to consider the shrub layer. Shrubs can be the backbone of a garden – providing height and structure in beds and borders, and filling in the gaps between the height of any tree canopy and herbaceous and ground cover planting. Shrubs are often wonderful for a low maintenance garden – especially if you choose the right ones for your soil type and conditions. To help you plan your shrubberies and borders, here are some of the shrubs that like acidic soil conditions: Azaleas Berberis Camellias Crinodendron hookerianum Fothergillas Gardenias Heathers Holly Hydrangea Lithodora diffusa Pieris japonica Rhododendrons Edible Plants The shrub layer in a garden can also be very productive. In an acidic soil garden, there are a number of fruiting shrubs and fruiting canes/brambles which can be good choices. Here are some to consider for a garden with acidic soil: Bilberries/Blaeberries Blueberries Cranberry Cowberry Gaultheria humifusa (Alpine Wintergreen) Blackberry Raspberry If you would like to grow vegetables in the ground in acidic soil, then it is also worth noting that unless the acidity is particularly extreme, potatoes are likely to be one of the best-performing crops for you. You may not do quite as well with Brassicas, these members of the cabbage family will do best in slightly alkaline conditions. Flowers To beautify your garden and bring in the wildlife, you will also, of course, wish to include plenty of flowering plants. Here are some excellent options for acidic soil conditions: Andromeda polifolia Begonia Caladium Irises Japanese anemones Kirengeshoma palmata Lewisia x cotyledon Lilyturf (Liriope muscari) Meconopsis cambrica Trillium erectum If you want to establish a wildflower meadow in acidic soil conditions, some wildflowers that are tolerant of acidic conditions include: Autumn Hawkbit Black Knapweed ‘Devils Bit’ Scabious Foxglove Heath Bedstraw Meadow Buttercup Musk Mallow Oxeye Daisy Ribwort Plantain Self Heal Sorrel Vipers Bugloss White Campion Wild Carrot Wood Avens Yarrow Grasses If you want to choose ornamental grasses for your garden then you should have no trouble finding grasses that work well in the soil where you live. Phormium (New Zealand Flax) is something that should thrive in your soil. Many other grasses (either for ornament, or as a lawn) will also cope with acidic soil conditions. If you want a grass mix for acidic soil (perhaps to be grown along with the flowers mentioned above) then here is a mix for acidic soil gardens: Agrostis capillaris Anthoxanthum odoratum Cynosurus cristatus Deschampsia flexuosa Festuca rubra ssp. litoralis Poa pratensis (Try 35% Festuca trachyphylla with lower proportions of all the other grasses.) Ferns If there is a shady spot to fill in your acidic soil garden, then you should also consider adding some ferns. Great ferns for acidic soil conditions include: Blechnum spicant Cryptogramma crispa Blechnum chilense Blechnum penna-marina Woodwardia virginica Acidic soil is also tolerated by: Athyrium filix-femina Dryopteris species Gymnocarpium dryopteris Osmunda regalis Phegopteris connectilis Polypodium vulgare The options listed above are by no means your only options, but this list may give you a place to start when planning a planting scheme for your garden. One final note of caution however – remember that soil pH is only one of the criteria you should look at when choosing plants for your garden. So not all of the above will be suitable for all gardens with acidic soil – you also need to look at other factors alongside pH to make the right choices.
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Work With The Clay (Not Against It) - Here Are 20 Plants That Love Clay Soils
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Fuchsia 2) Laurustinus 3) Lady’s Mantle 4) Rose 5) Juneberry 6) Climbing Hydrangea 7) Hardy Geranium 8) Greater Masterwort 9) Dogwood 10) Hosta 11) New England Aster 12) Willow Leaved Pear 13) Birch 14) Swamp Cypress 15) Barberry 16) Checkerberry 17) Creeping Juniper 18) Yellow Deadnettle 19) Japanese Rose 20) Chinese Silver Grass Gardening on clay soil can have its challenges and limitations, so why not embrace it and grow plants that will thrive in clay conditions, rather than battle against it? If your garden is on clay soil, you probably already know that it can be rather hard work to work with. Clay soil tends to feel slightly sticky to the touch and can become bone hard in the hottest months and waterlogged during the rainy season, but it can also be very fertile. Clay soils should always be improved by adding organic matter such as composted bark, well-rotted manure or garden compost either lightly worked into the soil or left as a mulch for the worms to incorporate into the layer beneath. As well as continually improving the soil, it’s also best to grow plants that positively love clay soils. We’ve put together a selection of plants that will embrace clay soil and thrive, rather than limp along sulkily. 1) Fuchsia RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Swingtime’, ‘Pink Marshmallow’, ‘Lady Boothby’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: VARIES PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Fuchsias are popular here in the UK for good reason. Hardy fuchsias are reliably hardy and can survive temperatures of down to -10°C. They can be deciduous or evergreen shrubs that grow well in clay soils and come in a wide range of colours from cool white and pink to vibrant red and purple. The flowers are stunning in their pendant form and can be either single or double. Usually smallish shrubs, they are perfect for most gardens, though some can grow very large. Fuchsias like to be planted in moist and fertile soil and prefer full sun or part shade. They require a sheltered spot, so it’s best to avoid a windy and exposed site. Bees love their flowers and fuchsias are included in the RHS plants for pollinators selection. Fuchsia ‘Lady Boothby’ is a vigorous variety producing vibrant red and purple flowers from June until September. It is perfect for the back of a border, growing up to H4m x W1.5m. “Once an established framework of woody stems has developed, it’s best to prune these hardy Fuschias back to that framework in early to mid-spring as they flower on new growth,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “This pruning method prevents the shrubs from becoming tangled and leggy and keeps the growth fresh and producing lots of flowers.” 2) Laurustinus BOTANICAL NAME: Viburnum tinus PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Viburnum tinus or ‘laurustinus’ as it is sometimes known, is a large evergreen shrub which produces wonderful clusters of pink buds which turn to white flowers in late winter. It can be grown as a hedge, but is often used as a specimen shrub in a border. V. tinus will grow in any moist, but well-drained soil. An adaptable and hardy shrub, it will grow in either full sun or shade, but prefers a sheltered spot away from cold winds. Potentially growing up to H4m x W4m over time it can be kept to size through annual pruning in spring after flowering. For a smaller variety, V. tinus ‘Eve Price’ is still a sizeable shrub and will eventually reach H2.5m x H2.5m. “Viburnum tinus is particularly prone to Viburnum beetle larvae eating the foliage and causing a foul smell,” adds Roy. “Biological control nematodes are available for this beetle, applied by watering onto the affected plant. Alternatively, an organic pesticide spray can be used between late April and early May to eradicate this pest.” 3) Lady’s Mantle BOTANICAL NAME: Alchemilla mollis PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST More commonly known as Lady’s mantle, Alchemilla mollis is a herbaceous and clump-forming perennial. With light green leaves, it produces frothy yellow flowers extending above the foliage during the summer. Growing to roughly H.5m x W.5m it will tolerate any soil, including clay. It’s a hardy and tough plant and will happily self-seed if you let it. Perfect as ground cover or at the front of a border it will even happily grow in shade, as well as full sun. Perfect in a cottage garden scheme or for softening hard landscaped edges. Being perennial, it will die back over winter, but if cut back after flowering it will produce fresh new growth and even flower again later in the summer. “This mid-summer removal of flowered stems and leggy leaves really improves the appearance of the plant, which becomes quite tatty looking after flowering in early summer,” shares Roy. “The fresh growth coming later often stays looking good until the first frosts.” 4) Rose BOTANICAL NAME: ROSA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Aloha’, ‘Champagne Moment’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER, RAMBLER OR SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: OFTEN H6 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Roses are often the summer show stopper of a British garden and thrive in clay soils due to the excellent range of nutrients available in healthy soils of this type, but may struggle if the roots become waterlogged due to poor drainage. Drainage in heavy clay soils can be improved as mentioned earlier, by adding organic matter to the soil. From small patio varieties to larger shrubs and climbers there is a rose for every garden. Roses tend to love as much sun as they can get, but thankfully there are some varieties that don’t mind receiving a little less. English shrub rose ‘Harlow Carr’ is one such rose and will happily cope with partial shade. It produces the most perfect pink scented flowers on a bushy habit, ideal for a border or container it grows to 0.9m in height and 0.9m wide. A repeat flowering rose, it will bloom from early summer right through until the autumn if deadheaded. 5) Juneberry BOTANICAL NAME: Amelanchier lamarckii PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Better known as the snowy mespilus or juneberry, Amelanchier lamarckii are deciduous shrubs or small trees. They are a great choice for any garden as they produce beautiful delicate white flowers in spring, good autumnal foliage and berries. A. lamarckii will grow in clay, loam or sandy soil, in either full sun or part shade. Growing to an eventual size of H12m x W8m, they need to have room to flourish. It is possible however to prune the trees to keep them to a smaller size of 3-4m, with perhaps a single stem for effect. Easily available here in the UK; they can be bought as single stem or multi-stem trees and as a bush. It is a wonderful tree or shrub to attract wildlife into your garden as birds love to eat the berries it produces. Having proven to perform reliably well, it has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit (AGM). 6) Climbing Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Mirranda’ PLANT TYPE: CLIMBING SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST If you are looking for a climber that is happy in clay soil then the climbing hydrangea or H. anomala subsp. petiolaris is definitely worthy of consideration. A self-clinging climber, it produces large white flower heads up to 20cm across between May and June. Tolerating clay soil, it can grow to an excess of H12m x W8m. It is an extremely versatile climber which will grow in either full sun or part-shade and can even cope with a shady north-facing wall. Having proven to perform reliably well it has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit (AGM). 7) Hardy Geranium RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Mavis Simpson’, ‘Orion’, ‘Rozanne’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6-H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Hardy geraniums or cranesbill geraniums are generally very easy to grow, tolerating all but the heaviest clay soils and being waterlogged. Requiring minimal maintenance, they can bloom for months on end during the summer months and brighten up any border. As a perennial, they will die back after the first frost with new growth appearing in spring. Generally hardy geraniums will grow in full sun to part shade and do best in a moist, but well-drained soil. If there was one to grow it must be G. ‘Rozanne’. Growing to H0.6m x W0.6m it is perfect for a border or container and produces masses of violet-blue flowers from June until the autumn if deadheaded. 8) Greater Masterwort BOTANICAL NAME: Astrantia major PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Astrantia or Hattie’s pincushion as they are sometimes known, are a group of summer flowering herbaceous perennials. They produce stunning star-shaped flowers in cream, pink, red and purple. Tolerating full sun, but preferring part shade, they will grow in clay or loamy soils as long as they are not allowed to dry out. Growing to a maximum of H1m x W0.5m they are well suited to a border or a pot and will bloom from June through to August. 9) Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: CORNUS RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Flaviramea’, ‘Elegantissima’, ‘MIDWINTER FIRE’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6-H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Better known as dogwoods, cornus are a group of deciduous shrubs. Often grown for winter interest, some have wonderful stem colour to brighten up a border on a winter’s day and others are grown for their pollinator-friendly flowers. The dogwoods grown for winter interest include C. alba, C. sericea and C. sanguinea and are very tolerant of heavy clay soils and will often do well where other plants have failed. C. alba ‘Sibirica’ is a great variety that produces stunning red stems that turn almost crimson during the winter and cream flowers in early summer. Growing to H2.5m x W2.5m it prefers a sunny or part shaded spot and moist, but well-drained soil. Originating from Siberia, it is naturally hardy and is a great shrub to add some winter colour to the borders. “In order for Dogwoods to produce these colourful stems, established plants should be hard pruned in late winter or early spring followed by a feed and mulch,” Roy explains. 10) Hosta BOTANICAL NAME: HOSTA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Halcyon’, ‘Patriot’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST Originating from Japan and China, hostas are easy to grow and are mainly favoured for their beautiful foliage. There are many to choose from, varying in leaf colour, size and shape and most flower on tall stems rising above the foliage. In general, hostas are happiest in the shade and are perfect in a container or a border. Some varieties are more tolerant of sun than others so it worth checking before you buy. Once planted, hostas tend to look after themselves, only requiring deadheading and their dead foliage removed in winter. As a perennial, new foliage will emerge in the spring. They are however, a favourite of slugs and snails! Wool pellets or copper rings around the base of the plants are advised for protection, particularly as new foliage emerges. “It’s an ongoing battle to prevent slugs and snails from eating hosta leaves, which is a pity as they are mainly grown for their foliage,” Roy says. “Additional methods of protection are choosing a resistant cultivar, watering slug nematodes into the soil, placing sheep’s wool around the base of the plant and lastly spraying a garlic solution at regular intervals – a method recommended by Hosta growers! “Hostas are considered hardy here in the UK and prefer fertile and moisture-retentive soil.” 11) New England Aster BOTANICAL NAME: Symphyotrichum novae-angliae RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Helen Picton’, ‘James Ritchie’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST Asters flower late in the season, generally from September to November, and provide colour in ranges of pink, blue and purple to garden borders that are otherwise starting to run out of steam. 12) Willow Leaved Pear BOTANICAL NAME: Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’ PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Often known as a Weeping Pear, this is a great specimen tree which can be pruned to an umbrella shape. It is covered in white blossoms in spring. 13) Birch BOTANICAL NAME: BETULA RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Jermyns’, ‘Red Panda’ (Pictured), ‘Snow Queen’ PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY There are a number of Birch trees with attractive bark which stand out in the winter, ranging from the sparkling white of B. utilis var. jacquemontii to the pinkish-red of B. albosinensis. The only caution is the general lack of drought resistance of these trees due to their shallow root systems. 14) Swamp Cypress BOTANICAL NAME: Taxodium distichum PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: POORLY-DRAINED This tree has bright green, soft, needle-like foliage and produces a bright orange display before losing its leaves in the autumn. It tolerates waterlogged soils and is often planted at the edge of ponds. 15) Barberry BOTANICAL NAME: BERBERIS RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Stapehill’, ‘Georgeii’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY Many cultivars of Berberis have brightly coloured foliage, but do require well-drained soil. Watch out for the spiked leaves! 16) Checkerberry BOTANICAL NAME: Gaultheria procumbens PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST This is a low-growing evergreen shrub with glossy leaves and red berries in the autumn which will tolerate shady positions. 17) Creeping Juniper BOTANICAL NAME: Juniperus horizontalis RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Wiltonii’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: VERY WELL DRAINED A low-growing, spawling Juniper which forms a ground cover with blue-green needles. It is good for dry soils or banks. 18) Yellow Deadnettle BOTANICAL NAME: Lamium galeobdolon PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: WELL-DRAINED; KEEP MOIST A perennial with buttery-yellow flowers that spread easily (often too easily and can become a nuisance), forming ground cover in shady areas. 19) Japanese Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Kerria japonica RECOMMENDED VARIETIES: ‘Golden Guinea’, ‘Flore Pleno’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY The Japanese rose is a deciduous shrub with attractive double yellow flowers which can brighten up the shady corners of a garden. 20) Chinese Silver Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Miscanthus sinensis PLANT TYPE: GRASS HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED DRAINAGE: ANY The large range of cultivars of this grass produce a variety of coloured golden, pink and purple plumes which stand over winter when other perennials have faded away. If you garden on clay, improving the soil can go a long way, hopefully allowing you to grow a wider range of plants. However, there are some plants, as above, that love fertile clay soil, so why not embrace what you have got and work with it, rather than against it?
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