Growing
Winter Care Guidelines For Hardy Outdoor Cyclamen And Indoor Tender Types
IN THIS GUIDE Winter Care For Outdoor Cyclamen Overwintering Indoor Cyclamen Cyclamen are sometimes grown as houseplants and sometimes as garden plants, with specific varieties suited to both of these options. Cyclamens are usually grouped into hardy types, and tender types, with both requiring very different winter care. “Hardy cyclamen can give you interest through the cold, dark winter months if placed in pots outside,” shares Elliott Beveridge, a Head Gardener at a private estate in the south of England. Before you can understand how to care for cyclamen in winter, it is important to make sure you have identified which type of cyclamen you are growing. Below are some simple guidelines for winter care which should help steer you in the right direction: Ensure that hardy cyclamens in your garden are growing in a suitable free-draining spot, where waterlogging will not occur. Mulch around the hardy cyclamen in winter with a layer of insulating organic material. Keep tender cyclamen indoors from September until leaves naturally begin to die back in spring. Water when the medium is dry, feed every couple of months, and tug away dead flowers and leaves to keep tender cyclamen looking good as a houseplant in your home. Winter Care For Outdoor Cyclamen Hardy cyclamens include C. coum, C. hederifolium, and C. purpurascens. These types require little winter care, but care needs will differ depending on the specific type you are growing. C. coum flowers from January to March and so can actually be in its peak flowering period in winter. C. hederifolium flowers in early autumn, and its foliage, like ivy, provides good ground cover from winter to spring. C. purpurascens flowers from mid-late summer before dying back over the winter months. They are typically H5 hardy, which means they are hardy in most of the UK – even during severe winters. However, wet conditions can be an issue, so it is important to ensure good drainage. It can also be a good idea to mulch around the plants to provide some protection in colder UK gardens with loose, bulky, insulating organic material – like a thick layer of bark or autumn leaves. Overwintering Indoor Cyclamen Tender cyclamen which are grown indoors, like C. persicum and other large-flowered types, make excellent houseplants for the winter months. They should flower indoors over the winter before dying back and entering a summer dormancy period in spring. They are not frost-hardy and cannot survive outdoors over the coldest part of the year. They should be placed in pots indoors. Ideally, they should be kept in a bright location out of direct sunlight in a room which remains between 10-15°C. They should be watered when the medium feels dry, ideally from below, and excess water should always be able to drain away. “To avoid overwatering, fill a tray of water and sit your Cyclamen pot in it,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “When you see the colour of the tope of the compost turn darker you will know that the water has penetrated the whole pot. “Remove it and allow it to drip dry. This allows the compost to re-wet whilst avoiding the tuber sitting in wet compost or wetting the leaves. “Allow this to become dry to touch before repeating.” They don’t need much feeding or other care, but to keep your plant going over multiple seasons and encourage it to re-flower, it can be beneficial to feed with an organic houseplant feed every couple of months. Dead flowers and leaves can be gently tugged away to keep the plant looking neat.
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Propagate Comfrey From Root Cuttings For An Easy Way To Grow New Plants
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Select A Plant For Cuttings 2) Prepare Pots 3) Lift And Divide Existing Plant 4) Pot Up 5) Plant Out Comfrey is an extremely easy plant to grow and propagate. This is great news because it really is a great friend to gardeners. There are several different types of comfreys you can grow, but Russian comfrey is probably my favourite because it is sterile, so won’t spread out of bounds, and is great for maintaining fertility. However, you cannot grow this type from seed – but it can, like other comfreys, be propagated very easily by division, and from crown offsets and root cuttings. Once you have one comfrey plant growing in your garden, you can quickly and easily get many more to plant elsewhere in your garden. To propagate comfrey from cuttings: Select a mature comfrey plant, or purchase crown or root offsets. Prepare pots or growing areas in which to place the root cuttings. If propagating an existing plant, lift and divide the plant to acquire your cuttings. Plant or pot up the root cuttings. Plant out cuttings to their permanent growing positions as soon as new leaves emerge. This is a job that is best undertaken in autumn or early winter or early spring. Read on for a more in-depth explanation of this process. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mature comfrey or offsets, spade or fork, knife, gloves, pots When To Take Cuttings Spring, autumn, early winter 1) Select A Plant For Cuttings The first step is to find your cuttings. Of course, you might obtain cuttings from an existing comfrey plant in your garden, but you might also purchase cuttings. If you purchase cuttings, you will find that you can purchase either crown offsets or root offsets. Crown offsets are cuttings from the top part of the root system, with the growing tip attached. These will grow and establish more quickly. Root offsets are small portions of root without the growing tip. Comfrey is so remarkably easy to propagate because it will regrow pretty easily even from a small section of root. This is one of the reasons why it can be so difficult to eradicate from an area once it starts to grow there. 2) Prepare Pots Comfrey cuttings can quite often establish successfully when you place them straight in the ground, but if you place them in the ground, do remember that you should choose the spot carefully, as it will be very difficult to remove the plants once they establish. Comfrey needs a site with moist to damp soil, in full sun or partial shade. If the soil is not ideal where you live, it can be a good idea to choose pots to start out your cuttings. Small pots are fine, as long as you are prompt in planting out your cuttings as soon as new growth emerges and new leaves form. If planting in pots, fill these with any reasonably moist multipurpose peat-free potting mix or a homemade equivalent. If necessary, when planting outside in the ground, enrich the growing area before planting with plenty of organic matter. 3) Lift And Divide Existing Plant Taking cuttings from an existing plant can be done as part of the process of lifting and dividing. Comfrey plants can be lifted and divided in spring, autumn, or early winter. This can help reduce the size of an existing plant, while also providing more plants. You can simply lift and replant a portion of the existing comfrey, or you can also divide the portion up into smaller crown offsets and root cuttings. First, take a spade and slice down through the heart of the clump of comfrey, taking off as large a portion as you require and easing it from the soil. Firm the soil back in around the remaining plant; it will be fully recovered and back to how it was in no time at all. Take the portion you have lifted and shake off excess soil. If necessary, rinse the roots in cold water so that you can see things more clearly. You can then begin the process of dividing this portion of the mature plant into cuttings, or offsets. Cut across the roots using a sharp, clean knife around 5cm below the previous ground level. The area above this cut will become your crown offsets. Remove all the leaves remaining on this portion, leaving just 1cm or so of stem. The area below this cut can be used to create your root cuttings. Divide the crown using your knife into smaller sections. As long as each one has a growing tip and some root, it should get off to a good start and put on new growth more quickly than the root offsets. The remaining root sections from below the initial cut can be cut into short sections of the root, each around 5cm long. Each of these cuttings should also eventually grow into a new comfrey plant. You will soon see that a great many cuttings can be obtained from even a relatively small portion of an existing comfrey plant. “To divide my plants, I take large cuttings with an old pruning saw or bread knife, use a sharp garden knife to cut these into 5-10cm sections,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticulturist Instructor with 27 years of experience. “Unlike a wood (top growth) cutting, where you would have an angled cut at the top of the cutting material, with root cuttings I recommend having an angled cut at the thin end nearest the root tip of the cutting. “This will help you push it into compost when you plant it the correct way up with the pointy-end down.” 4) Pot Up Place crown offsets in the soil or growing medium at the level that they were previously at in the soil, with the growing tip just protruding. Root cuttings should be planted on their sides around 2.5cm below the surface of the soil or growing medium. 5) Plant Out You can plant out your offsets in the ground right away, or keep them in a greenhouse or other undercover area until the following spring before you plant them into their final growing positions.
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Comfrey Can Be Propagated By Seed, But Make Sure You Choose A Non-Sterile Type
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Comfrey From Seed? When To Sow 1) Sow The Seeds 2) Move To Individual Pots 3) Overwinter 4) Plant Out Comfrey is an incredibly useful plant to grow in an organic and sustainable garden. However, some comfrey that is commonly grown is selected because it is sterile, or, in other words, it will not set seed. Sterile cultivars are often selected because, for all its benefits, comfrey can also become a nuisance in the wrong setting when it can set seed and spread on its own. The deep roots of the plant can make it difficult to eradicate once it has colonised an area. However, some gardeners may still decide to grow comfrey (such as Symphytum officinale) which can be grown from seed. Make sure you choose non-sterile comfrey to collect seeds from or purchase the right type of seeds for your needs. If you would like to grow non-sterile comfrey from seed: Sow seeds in a seed tray undercover or in a cold frame in spring (March-April) or autumn (September-October). Alternatively, you can directly sow comfrey in the garden in spring. Prick out seeds into individual pots once large enough to handle. Overwinter seedlings under cover during their first winter. Plant out the young plants into their permanent positions in spring, after the last frost date in your area. However, consider that other methods of propagation are quicker and easier. Read on for a more in-depth explanation: Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, pots or seed trays, potting medium, cold frame/ greenhouse or polytunnel When To Sow March-April or September-October When To Plant Out April-May Can You Grow Comfrey From Seed? Symphytum x uplandicum ‘Bocking 14’ is the most common sterile cultivar grown. It is a hybrid of S. asperum and S. officinale. This plant does not set viable seeds and so cannot be propagated in this way. However, species types which do set seed, such as S. officinale can be grown from seed. This is not the easiest way to propagate these plants, and generally, propagating by division or root cuttings is far easier, but sowing seeds can provide you with many new plants at one time. There are also other types of comfrey that you can propagate by seed, but these are nowhere near as common in the UK. When To Sow Comfrey seeds can be sown either in spring or autumn. You can plant your seeds where they are to grow in spring, after the last frost date in your area, but for better results, you should sow them undercover, in a cold frame, or in another unheated undercover growing area. 1) Sow The Seeds Comfrey seeds need a period of cold stratification, so if they have not been exposed to a period of cold, damp conditions over the winter, it can be best to place them in a fridge for a month or two in moist potting soil or a paper towel prior to sowing. However, this may not always be necessary. Sow seeds into a seed tray or flat filled with a suitable seed starting medium and cover them over lightly with the seed-starting potting mix. Seeds should germinate within a couple of weeks or so when grown in the right conditions. Soil temperature for most successful germination should be between around 15-25°C. 2) Move To Individual Pots Once germination has taken place, and your seedlings are large enough to handle, prick each one out and pot it up into its own individual pot filled with a peat-free multi-purpose potting mix. Since comfrey plants have deep roots and grow quickly, choose pots at least 15-20cm deep. “I like to create planting plugs using the cardboard core of kitchen rolls, as this gives you a deep pot without using too much compost,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “When it is time to plant out, you can use a bulb planter to make the planting hole and can peel away the cardboard roll, but I plant it with the roll still on as it breaks down in the soil quickly.” 5L pots are usually the right size. 3) Overwinter Comfrey plants should be grown in pots, ensuring that they are watered well and regularly, and it is generally best to keep them undercover in a greenhouse or polytunnel for their first winter so that they become well-established. 4) Plant Out After they have spent their first winter in pots undercover, your comfrey plants can then be planted out into their final growing position the following spring, after the last frosts in your area. Remember, choose your position carefully, as you will find it very difficult to eradicate comfrey from a specific location if you later decide to move it. The roots can delve metres into the soil, and the plants can regrow from root sections.
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Comfrey vs Borage - What Are The Benefits Of Each In An Organic Garden?
IN THIS GUIDE Similarities Differences Using Comfrey In The Garden Using Borage In The Garden References Both comfrey (Symphytum ssp.) and borage (Borago officinalis) are members of the Boraginaceae plant family.1 Both are key plants for organic gardeners, bringing many benefits to a garden, and can be used in many ways. In this article, I will explain some of the key differences and similarities between borage and comfrey and some of the ways you can use both in your garden. Similarities Some of the similarities include: Both plants have hairy leaves which can look fairly similar early in the season. Both are great nectary plants, which are great for bees and other pollinators, and other beneficial insects in your garden. Comfrey and borage can both be excellent companion plants in a food producing garden. Both plants are dynamic accumulators, which can make them useful for mulches, composting and liquid plant feeds. Differences There are some key differences between the two plants. These are: Comfrey is a perennial and will come back each year, but borage is an annual, completing its lifecycle over a single year. Comfrey has white/pink-purple dangling tubular or bell-shaped flowers. Borage has purple/blue star-shaped flowers. Comfrey grows in almost any soil type, but prefers reasonably moist conditions in full sun or partial shade. Borage prefers more free-draining conditions in full sun or partial shade. Comfrey is H7 hardy whereas borage is H5 hardy. Comfrey grows 1-1.5m tall, with a similar spread. Borage is a somewhat smaller plant, growing around 0.5-1m tall, with a spread of 0.1-0.5m. Using Comfrey In The Garden Comfrey is commonly used in a garden as a companion plant in a forest garden or guild, or another perennial planting scheme. It benefits fruit trees and other plants through dynamic accumulation, grass suppression, ground cover, and other plants and insect attraction for pollination and pest control. Comfrey can be grown in a dedicated patch which is then mown and dropped to provide material for composting, mulching and liquid feeding. It can also be used to form barriers around a certain growing area to prevent the ingress of grasses or weeds and to create a good ground cover. Alternatively, comfrey can also act as an ornamental and structural plant in a mixed, informal, wildlife-friendly and low-maintenance perennial border, for its height and flowers. Using Borage In The Garden Borage is commonly used in a garden as a companion plant for most common annual kitchen garden crops, and as a ‘living mulch’ which can be chopped and dropped, or harvested and used for household purposes or fertility in the garden. It can also be used as a self-seeder in forest gardens or perennial vegetable garden designs, or in herb gardens, alongside a range of other culinary herbs. Borage would make a great addition to an informal annual flower bed or wildflower meadow area, as Horticulturist Dan Ori shares: “Borage can be left after flowering if you want to encourage it to self-seed, unlike Comfrey, which you will most likely want to cut back after flowering to control the spread and encourage fresh-looking leaf growth. “Borage is one of my favourite plants to attract pollinators into the garden, it is listed on the Royal Horticultural Society’s Plant for Pollinators list.” So while comfrey and borage do have a lot in common, they are not always used in the same ways, but both can be great additions to your garden. References 1. Family Album: Borage. (n.d.). Wild Flower Finder. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://wildflowerfinder.org.uk/Menu2/Family/FamilyInfo/Info_Boraginaceae.htm
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Talking 8 Pretty Purple Phlox Varieties With Horticulturist Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE 1) P. paniculata ‘Blue Paradise’ 2) P. subulata ‘Emerald Cushion’ 3) P. ‘Violet Pinwheels’ 4) P. paniculata ‘Laura’ 5) P. subulata ‘Purple Beauty’ 6) P. paniculata ‘Little Boy’ 7) P. paniculata ‘Peacock Neon Purple’ 8) P. paniculata ‘Purple Kiss’ Available in a range of different colours, phlox is hugely popular among British gardeners thanks to its versatility and ease of cultivation. From herbaceous clump-forming varieties to their creeping counterparts, there’s a phlox for every occasion. Although other colours have their own merits, I genuinely believe purple phlox are among the loveliest in the plant’s spectrum. “Purple flowers will harmonise with blues and dark reds creating a calming effect,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “However, they will contrast with oranges and yellows to provide a vibrant, energetic atmosphere. You can add different foliage textures to further accentuate or dampen these effects.” That’s because of the way in which they can inject some energy or tranquillity into their surroundings, as the specimen dictates and the situation demands. With that in mind, I’ve compiled a list of eight of my favourite purple phlox varieties for your perusal. Check them out and get some inspiration for your next outdoor display! Just note, all of these varieties can be grown in either an exposed or sheltered location. 1) P. paniculata ‘Blue Paradise’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Blue Paradise’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Despite its name, ‘Blue Paradise’ carries blooms that are definitely more lavender in hue than blue. Nonetheless, the daily transformation from violet to indigo that they make as the sun dips in the sky is a sight to behold in any garden. Capable of growing up to 120cm in height, they’re one of the loftier phlox varieties available to you, and the fact that their sturdy stems carry a further suggestion of purple only enhances their ornamental attributes. 2) P. subulata ‘Emerald Cushion’ COMMON NAME(S): Phlox ‘Emerald Cushion Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread From one misnomer to another, ‘Emerald Cushion Blue’ is another specimen whose flowers are more amethyst than azure. However, unlike ‘Blue Paradise’, this phlox is of the creeping variety, meaning it provides excellent ground cover. Equally effective as a weed suppressant as it is as window dressing, ‘Emerald Cushion Blue’ should never exceed 15cm in height, but can span more than treble that in spread. That makes it perfect for use in covering over a bare patch or even dangling from a hanging basket for allure at altitude. 3) P. ‘Violet Pinwheels’ COMMON NAME(S): Creeping Phlox HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Violet Pinwheel’ is another creeping phlox variety that’s even shorter than the previous suggestion, reaching just 10cm at full maturity. It’s also a fairly brief bloomer, generally only sending forth flowerheads during springtime. However, the gorgeous lavender colours of its petals, along with the distinctive stellar shape they take, make it a showstopper at the peak of its powers. It’s not just a human audience it will wow during that window, either, with butterflies and bees attracted to its lightly fragranced blossoms as well. 4) P. paniculata ‘Laura’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Uspekh’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Flowering much later in the year, typically around July to September, ‘Laura’ is renowned for two things: the loveliness of its lavender petals, each of which is complemented by a completely white centre, and the potency of the honeyed fragrance it exudes. To take full advantage of both, you may wish to consider planting this phlox next to a window, doorway or path. This will allow you to enjoy the full force of its aroma as you pass by; just remember it can reach 90cm in height, so position your plant accordingly. 5) P. subulata ‘Purple Beauty’ COMMON NAME(S): Moss Phlox ‘Purple Beauty’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This vigorous creeper is characterised by the masses upon masses of star-shaped flowers it produces in spring, the subtle purple of the petals accentuated by the deep violet and yellow of its stamen. At the height of its activity, the blossoms will obscure the evergreen needle-like foliage beneath completely. Its tendency to grow in a carpet-like formation makes it ideal for edging borders or filling out empty terrain in beds. Place it alongside vibrant colours like yellows or reds for added oomph. 6) P. paniculata ‘Little Boy’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Little Boy’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full sun EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Little Boy Phlox’ is a slightly more delicate creature than many of its brethren, struggling under conditions of drought and plagued by powdery mildew, pests and other complaints. Nonetheless, it will reward those who take the time to care for it with its breathtaking blooms in summer and autumn. The panicles are formed of paper-like lilac petals, each with a smudge of white at its centre. It can grow up to 80cm in height and the same again in spread, while its long-lasting blossoms make it a perennial favourite despite its awkwardness. 7) P. paniculata ‘Peacock Neon Purple’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread With brightly-coloured panicles of magenta flowers set against lush green foliage, ‘Neon Purple’ is the very essence of vitality and vibrancy. It belongs to the Peacock series of Phlox paniculata – and it certainly knows how to display its tail feathers in your garden. At just 60cm in height and less than that in spread, it’s not too demanding in its spatial requirements and holds up well against disease and predators. As such, it’s an ideal option for smaller or urban gardens where space might not be at a premium. 8) P. paniculata ‘Purple Kiss’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Purple Kiss’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full sun / Partial Shade SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Like ‘Blue Paradise’, ‘Purple Kiss’ is also something of a chameleon in terms of the colours it wears throughout the day. At dawn, its petals will appear darker in tone, with a blue tinge adorning its purple mantle. By dusk, the hues have softened to something almost resembling pink. This, alongside the attractive white eyes at the centre of each flowerhead and the irresistible fragrances which draw in biodiversity, make ‘Purple Kiss’ popular across the UK and beyond. Again, it generally reaches about 60cm in height and half that in spread, making it entirely manageable in terms of its location in your garden.
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'I Don’t Deadhead Many Plants But Campanula Is One That I Do' - Here's Why It's Important
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead 1) Look For Faded Flowerheads 2) Cut Back To Lateral Buds 3) Remove Any Other Dead Or Dying Parts 4) Dispose Of Debris 5) Stay Vigilant With their bright colours and nodding flower heads, campanulas, better known as bellflowers, are strong performers in the height of summer. Although some species only bloom for less than a month, you can extend their flowering season with the right care and attention. Deadheading is the best way to achieve this. By doing so, you can divert energies which would have otherwise gone into seed production back towards blossoms, thus encouraging campanulas to flower well into autumn. ”I don’t deadhead many plants but Campanula is one that I do,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Firstly, because they tend to look unsightly, particularly the large-flowered species, and secondly, because it makes a big difference to the length of the growing season. “Campanula lactiflora is a species that can Chelsea chopped and have one-third cut back in mid-May which will result in later flowering.” Deadheading bellflowers is a very simple process. Follow the steps below and you can’t go wrong: Look for faded flowerheads. Cut back your bellflowers to their lateral buds. Remove any other dead or dying parts of the plant. Dispose of debris – typically by composting. Stay vigilant by regularly checking back and deadheading when necessary. When To Deadhead June and July are generally the months in which campanula are at their best, though the specific flowering season of your plant may vary depending on its cultivar and growing environment. Regardless of when it occurs, as soon as it’s in full bloom you should get ready to deadhead. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pruners When To Deadhead Every 5-7 days during flowering season 1) Look For Faded Flowerheads Carefully inspect your campanula, looking for signs of dying or fading flowerheads. Removing these is key to giving the plant a new lease of life since it will cease expending energy on producing seeds and instead redouble its blooming efforts. 2) Cut Back To Lateral Buds Once you have located a flower in need of deadheading, trace its stem back to a new lateral bud. It’s here that you’ll want to make your incision so as to give the bud as much opportunity to flourish as possible. You can pinch off the flowerhead with your index and middle fingers, though it’s advisable to use pruners if you have them to hand. This will ensure a cleaner cut and minimise the chance of the area becoming infected. 3) Remove Any Other Dead Or Dying Parts It’s not just flowers which may fade on your campanula. As well as removing all dying blossoms, you should also take the time to identify any leaves, stems or other parts which have seen better health. These should also be stripped away from the main body of the plant so that it doesn’t waste any energy in trying to keep them alive. 4) Dispose Of Debris Make sure that all trimmed flowers, leaves and other parts of the plant are disposed of appropriately, either in a compost bin or elsewhere. If you leave discarded parts of the plant around its base, you can attract aphids, slugs and snails, among other pests. These can compromise the long-term health of your plant. Some species can self-seed, too. 5) Stay Vigilant If you’re really serious about prolonging the blooming season of your campanula for as long as you can, deadheading will comprise a task that you come back to again and again. Ideally, you should give the plant a once-over on a daily basis to spot fading flowerheads as soon as they appear, though checking it every 5-7 days is also adequate.
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Sowing Campanula Seeds Under Cover In 7 Simple Steps With Jonathan Sweet
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Campanula 1) Prepare The Growing Medium 2) Sprinkle Your Seeds 3) Allow Germination To Take Place 4) Transplant Into Individual Pots 5) Prepare Outdoor Holes 6) Transplant to Final Location 7) Aftercare As their common name suggests, most varieties of campanula are immediately recognisable from their distinctive bell-shaped flowerheads. As a vibrant perennial, they make a great addition to any border or bed, especially as part of a classic cottage aesthetic. As resilient and resourceful plants, bellflowers present far fewer problems than many of their counterparts when growing from seed. It’s possible to plant them directly in the ground outside, though this can render them susceptible to the British climate. As such, we recommend first planting them in indoor trays, and then later transplanting them to their final location. This will give them the best chance to flourish, though the choice is entirely yours. The following steps cater for both options, so you can proceed in whichever manner you see fit: Prepare your growing medium / seed tray. Sprinkle your seeds liberally on the surface of your growing medium. Allow germination to take place. Transplant seedlings into individual pots. Prepare your outdoor location. Transplant to the final planting location. Care for your new plants. And that’s it! For those who require a little more guidance, here’s a rundown of those steps in greater detail: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seed tray, individual pots (10cm diameter), a small trowel and border fork, compost/potting mix/peat When To Sow Autumn to spring, depending on location When To Plant Out Spring (after last frost has passed) When To Sow Campanula The best time to sow campanula seeds depends on where you plan to plant them. Those grown directly outdoors should be sown in springtime after the last frost of the previous winter has passed. On the other hand, campanulas grown indoors can be sown anytime between autumn and spring. Seeds planted earlier can flower as quickly as April, while those sown later are likely to bloom in late summer. 1) Prepare The Growing Medium Regardless of whether you’re planting indoors or outdoors, it’s essential that you prepare the soil to ensure that it has all the appropriate characteristics for your plants to thrive. This means ensuring good drainage by working the terrain over, as well as enhancing it with a thin layer of compost or organic mulch. If using a seed tray, opt for potting mix or compost to achieve the best results. 2) Sprinkle Your Seeds Bellflower seeds don’t need to be planted at all, since they require sunlight to help with the germination process. Instead, simply sprinkle a handful of seeds over the surface of your prepared soil and gently press them down into its surface. Don’t worry about the placement of the seeds too much at this point. 3) Allow Germination To Take Place While the seeds are in the process of germination, it’s essential that you keep them warm and moist. Place them on a sunny windowsill if growing outdoors and mist them regularly but lightly. If growing outdoors, keep an eye on the weather to see if you need to irrigate in addition to Mother Nature’s offerings. Sprouts should begin to appear within 2-3 weeks. 4) Transplant Into Individual Pots Once seedlings have begun to emerge and have grown large enough to handle, it’s time to thin them out and transplant them into individual pots. Dig them up and carefully untangle each seedling from its neighbours if necessary. Plant each individual seedling into a pot that is of sufficient size (around 10cm in diameter) to allow its roots to develop. Position them in a cold frame. 5) Prepare Outdoor Holes Campanulas do best when given access to full sunlight and well-draining soil beneath their feet. The composition of the terrain isn’t as important as ensuring it retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. When planting more than one campanula plant at a time, make sure the holes are 30-40cm apart. Don’t make the hole too deep – the top of the roots should remain flush with the ground. 6) Transplant to Final Location If you have been cultivating your campanulas indoors at this point, make sure that the last frost (and a minimum of two months since the initial sowing) has passed before transplanting. “Plants raised under glass should ideally be hardened off before planting,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “This means adjusting the plant from a controlled life in a greenhouse to the more variable conditions outdoors. “Typically, this involves moving plants from the greenhouse to a ventilated cold frame or south facing wall.” Carefully remove your plants from their individual pots and place them in the holes you have already dug. Fill in the spaces around them with soil and press it down gently. 7) Aftercare Water the newly planted campanula specimens thoroughly at the outset, keeping up regular irrigation for the first weeks after planting. Once established, your bellflower shouldn’t require any special care or attention unless you experience a period of prolonged heat and drought. Deadhead during the blooming season to extend it long into the autumn if desired.
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Campanula Are Impressively Tough And Can Be Easily Lifted And Divided - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Divide Campanula 1) Prepare The Ground & New Planting Area 2) Cut Into The Ground 3) Lift The Campanula 4) Divide Clumps 5) Re-Plant The Divisions & Treat Them Campanulas are cottage garden classics, whether the variety shows perky, upright star-shaped flowers or bears demure, drooping bells, which give rise to the plant’s colloquial name – bellflower. Although these plants might not look it, they are also impressively tough and can easily be lifted and divided. Lift and divide campanulas by following these steps: Prep the ground around the plant and also prepare the new planting area. Cut into the ground all around the plant and prise it up from a good depth. Lift up the plant, roots – soil and all. Vertically divide the plant into smaller clumps. Replant the divided clumps, then water and fertilise. This process is explained in more depth below: Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, small hand pick, garden mattock or garden fork, hand spade or gardening trowel, watering can or hosepipe When To Divide April-May When To Divide Campanula Lift and divide campanulas on a late spring morning a few weeks after the last frost of the season, as Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly explains: “The rule of thumb with dividing perennials is to divide summer flowering plants in spring and spring flowering plants in summer. “However, I tend to divide in autumn because of the increased prevalence of hot, dry weather in spring making establishment more problematic. “I find that the warmer but wet autumns are good for establishing clumps of perennials prior to the next growing season.” Before dividing, make sure that the soil is workable. 1) Prepare The Ground & New Planting Area Water the ground around the plant to be lifted with a watering can or hosepipe as you jab at the ground with a small hand pick, garden mattock, or garden fork to prep and loosen it. I’d recommend wearing gardening gloves for this task. In the replanting area, dig holes, cultivate the soil, pre-water the ground, and do whatever other tasks are necessary at the spot you have selected for the dividing campanulas. 2) Cut Into The Ground Drive a spade or fork into the ground all around the plant you want to divide, staying a good 15-20cm away from it. The cut you make into the ground should be about 30cm deep. 3) Lift The Campanula Pushing down and pivoting up the spade or fork as you go around the plant, slowly prise up the clump of ground to bring up the campanula, roots and soil, and lift it all out together. 4) Divide Clumps Use your gloved hands, or the edge of a hand spade or a gardening trowel, to divide the plant vertically from the foliage down to the roots. Try to pull and divide or cut through cleanly but it’s okay if some roots seem to tear along the vertical as you divide. Just make sure to divide into viable clumps that have enough foliage and roots. I’d say about 15-20cm across will be more than enough for a clump. 5) Re-Plant The Divisions & Treat Them Re-plant the divided clumps in the holes you had dug and backfill as necessary. Make sure that the soil level is at or, preferably, a bit below what it originally was on the stems of the plants. Water the divided plants very moderately. Treat them to a conservative quantity of slow-release fertiliser or liquid fertiliser. Dilute as required and keep the fertiliser away from the root crowns, then water again generously.
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You Can Propagate Campanula From Basal Cuttings In Early-To-Mid Spring
IN THIS GUIDE When To Propagate 1) Prepare The Pot 2) Obtain The Cutting 3) Trim The Cutting 4) Plant Into Compost 5) Setting Up 6) Cutting Aftercare Effective methods of propagating campanulas vary by species. Among the methods are growing from seed, greenwood cuttings, basal cuttings, and plant division. In this guide, we explain how to propagate campanula from basal cuttings. The process is outlined here: Prepare the potting materials. Obtain your campanula cutting from an existing plant. Trim the cutting down to size. Plant the cutting in your pre-prepared pot. Set up a clear plastic bag around the cutting to trap humidity. Care for your newly propagated campanula with regular watering and eventually planting out. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, sharp knife, scissors, clear plastic bag When To Propagate The time to attempt this type of propagation is indicated by the plant itself. In early-to-mid spring soon after the last frost, you will notice new green shoots emerging around the plant. It is one of these that will give you a new campanula. 1) Prepare The Pot Prepare a small 9cm terra-cotta (not plastic or ceramic) pot with multi-purpose compost and dampen the compost. Do not use a potting mix or a seed starter. The pots should have drainage holes. 2) Obtain The Cutting Choose a new green shoot emerging beside the original plant that has several leaflets. Brush away just a little soil at the base to expose the greyish-brownish section of stem beneath the green. Using the sterilised, sharp knife, slice through it at the point in between the root and the above soil shoot with a single clean cut. 3) Trim The Cutting Using a pair of table scissors, cut the leaflets laterally into about half their lengths. 4) Plant Into Compost Plant the cutting into the compost, firming up the compost all round. Give it a good watering. 5) Setting Up Cover the cutting with a clear plastic bag that is not too large but still big enough not to stifle or touch the cutting. The bag will trap humidity which the cutting needs early on. Tie the edge of the bag around the rim of the pot and then make some tiny holes in the bag with a pin. Keep the pot in a place where the cutting will get several hours of indirect sunlight. Do not worry if the cutting’s existing leaflets droop and wilt initially; this usually happens even as a cutting is developing roots and putting out fresh foliage. 6) Cutting Aftercare Continue to water the cutting such that the soil stays moist. Remove the plastic bag for an hour or so before watering, and put it back on 10-15 minutes after watering. As you see the cutting develop several fresh leaves, gradually increase its exposure to sunlight and remove the plastic bag. After a few more weeks, pot it on or plant it in open ground. You can maximise your chances of getting new campanulas if you take and root multiple basal cuttings, so long as it does not injure or stress the original plant. “Basal cuttings are relatively easy-to-establish for many perennials, being a section of root and stem and of young growth,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist who has previously worked at The Eden Project. “These usually take and grow on quite quickly in favourable conditions, providing a plantable result within a few months. “I use this type of cutting to bulk up perennial stocks early in the season and follow up with division in late summer if needed.”
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