Growing
Colourful Combinations With Lavatera ‘Tree Mallows’: How To Care For Your Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Colourful Combinations Plant Care & Growing Tips Habitat & Growing Conditions Lavatera Types Buying Lavatera References Described as adding a romantic touch to your garden due to all those lovely pink, purple and white coloured blooms – Lavatera is a tall flower which is pretty easy for even the most basic gardeners to grow. It is regularly likened to Hollyhocks – although there aren’t as many colours as such since Lavatera itself is mostly white, with shades of pink, purple and red. There is no denying Lavatera looks great for the border of a garden. But it’s also eye-catching in a large planter, thanks to its generous blooms (4-12cm in diameter) and the way they grow in clusters. Overview Botanical Name Lavatera / Malva Common Name(s) Tree Mallow Plant Type Perennial Native Area Macaronesia, North Africa, Europe, Central and South-Western Asia, Ethiopia, North America and Australia Hardiness Rating H5 (mostly) Foliage Long-stalked evergreen with grey-green leaves and stems Flowers Large funnel-shaped blooms When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August, September You will find the Annual version of Lavatera begins flowering around the middle of June and lasts all the way through until those white and frosty crisper days of autumn. The genus of the flower is from the Malvaceae family, which is native to the likes of North Africa, Europe, Asia, the west side of North America and Australia – so it’s pretty prevalent around the world!1 Beautiful Lavatera with the distinctive funnel shape it is so well known for A commonly-used name for Lavatera amongst the gardening community is Tree Mallow. But you’ll also find it referred to as Annual Mallow, Rose Mallow or Royal Mallow. Colourful Combinations It may not be as colourful as Hollyhocks in terms of variety, but the shades Lavatera does offer are stunning. Many of the flowers also have their beautiful trademark striations of deeper tones. The dark eyes in the centre of the flower can also prove extremely eye-catching. In fact, one thing is absolutely guaranteed – regardless of where in your garden you plant, it will always be one of the first flowers to meet your eye. Plant Care & Growing Tips Easy to grow from seed and to care for as time goes on, Lavatera is pretty robust when it comes to coping with strong winds and poor soil. Although it doesn’t usually produce its beautiful and abundant five-petalled flowers until its second year, when it does, it certainly makes up for the lack of blooms in Year One. Butterflies and bees love this plant – which is a big plus since these benefit the flowers. Lavatera also self-seeds so pretty much ensures its place in your garden year-after-year (even if the shrub itself tends to die out after around five years). The perennial version requires quite a bit of space in the garden to allow it to spread easily without hitting any obstacles. Height-wise you’re looking at from three to six feet. Insects aren’t a particular problem for most types of Lavatera – but frosts can be, unless they are pruned in spring to get rid of any damaged parts of the plant. Habitat & Growing Conditions The type of soil Lavatera likes best is that which is well-drained or even soil which is generally considered too poor for many flowers to grow in. It doesn’t need a lot of watering – only really if there hasn’t been rain for some time – you’ll be able to tell if it needs watering since the petals will start to fall off. This plant doesn’t need fertiliser either, unless it’s during the summer and even then, only monthly in order to prevent it growing too many leaves. Lavatera are particularly popular with gardeners who lie near the coast – that’s because salt simply isn’t a problem for this plant. If it’s very cold though it’s a good idea to grow them beside a wall for added shelter. In terms of light, Lavatera will flourish in the sun, but it’s fine in partial shade too. However, being such a fast grower, the plant can flop if there is far too much shade. Pruning regularly means the branches will grow strong and keep them from spreading too much. Lavatera Types Lavatera has technically been subsumed into the genus Malva but is still widely known by its old names.2 It can be broken down into annual and perennial varieties. Annual Lavateras One of the most popular of the annual variety of Lavateras is L. trimestris. The rather funnel-shaped flowers from this plant range from white (‘Mont Blanc’) to light pink (‘Pink Beauty’), dark pink (‘Silver Cup’) and cherry pink (‘Ruby Regis’). Some of the blooms also feature eye-catching darker veining, much of which is contrasting and grows to a deeper shade near the centre of the flower. The blooms resemble those found on Hollyhocks (which is why it is always being mixed up with these by amateur gardeners) and can be up to three inches wide. The actual plant tends to grow up to two feet tall. Perennial Lavateras The Perennial form of the Lavateras plant is the one you will find most often referred to as Tree Mallows. These are shrub-like and fast-growing and are the forms of the plant that look great as borders. They tend to be particularly colourful and prevalent in their second year of growth. Some of the most popular forms of Lavateras that you are likely to encounter in gardens around the UK and Europe include: L. thuringiaca L. thuringiaca is the perennial form of the plant you are most likely to encounter, such is its popularity. The blooms are a range of different pink shades and the shrubby plant will grow up to 1.8m before disappearing every winter.3 Lavatera x clementii ‘Barnsley’ L. x clementii ‘Barnsley’ can often be found in many large gardens. Growing to 2m tall and producing hollyhock-like flowers from June until September, the blooms are white and red in the centre, eventually fading to pale pink as the summer progresses. It is a fast-growing plant. Lavatera ‘Barnsley Baby’ L. ‘Barnsley Baby’ tends to be a smaller (in every sense) version of the above ‘Barnsley’. It looks similar, but only grows to a total height of 1m or so.4 This makes it an excellent flower to grow if your garden is rather space-compromised. L. maritima L. maritima can grow as high as 8 feet tall and can spread by as much as 12 feet. Its blooms are white and pink while the stem looks like a grey to green shade. An extremely hardy plant, it is ideal for gardens near the sea; where growing other more genteel types of flowers may be somewhat of a challenge. “This is a great plant for coastal gardens where a taste for cottage garden-style plants can be fulfilled by L. maritima,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It is robust enough to be grown outside of a shelter belt and can even be grown as a low hedge.” Buying Lavatera You can, of course, buy Lavatera from any reputable garden seller in the UK. But, much more satisfying, is for you to grow the plant from a cutting from a friend. References 1. Family: Malvaceae. (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/family/malvaceae/ 2. Malva Tourn. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved July 3, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:60436984-2#children 3. Lavatera thuringiaca. (n.d.-b). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Lavatera+thuringiaca 4. Lavatera × clementii “Barnsley Baby.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/201424/lavatera-x-clementii-barnsley-baby/details
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Crocosmia 'Lucifer' Growing Guide With Mark Wash, Owner At Trecanna Nursery
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Crocosmia Ongoing Care Supporting Crocosmia Common Problems Division And Replanting References Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is the most widely grown variant of crocosmia – a deciduous perennial with narrow, sword-shaped leaves and vivid tubular flowers. In the case of the ‘Lucifer’ cultivar, these flowers are bright red, and the plant typically grows to around 1.2m tall. In this guide, we’ve collaborated with Mark Wash, the owner of Trecanna Nursery, a specialist crocosmia nursery based in Cornwall. “I first discovered these wonderful plants in the 1980’s, a time when bold colours were often frowned upon,” says Mark. “Their vibrant tones attracted me and I travelled to the mountains of South Africa to see them in their native surroundings, then followed their 140-year history of breeding across Europe, all of which helped me to appreciate crocosmia more and more.” C. ‘Lucifer’ is easy to grow in the UK, as it’s hardy to our climate and can withstand harsh winters and temperatures down to -15°C. It is most often found in flower beds and herbaceous borders, where it complements other flowering plants, and is a great way to add tropical colour to your garden in late summer, once the spring bloomers have come and gone. It also provides attractive, mid-green foliage from spring to autumn. Overview Botanical Name Crocosmia Common Name(s) ‘Lucifer’ / Montbretia Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area South and East Africa Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Sword-shaped leaves, herbaceous Flowers Funnel-shaped flowers in bright reddish-orange When To Sow / Plant April, May, June Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune October, November The crocosmia genus of flowering plants is part of the Iridaceae iris family and is native to southern and eastern Africa.1 It is a bulb flower or deciduous perennial, and grows in clumps, to a maximum height of 1.5m and spread of 0.5m. It can take up to 5 years to reach this stage, with flower displays getting thicker each season. The Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is a member of the hybrid cultivar C. x crocosmiiflora, created in 1879 by Victor Lemoine.2 Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ makes a colourful addition to a herbaceous border It is characterised by narrow, pleated green leaves, which grow erect and in dense clumps, as well as sprays of fiery red flowers – the colour of the devil, which is where it gets its name. The plant flowers during the mid-to-late summer months, typically from July to September. “I just adore the way that crocosmias come into bloom from the early summer onwards, just as many other border perennials are past their best,” says Mark. “They bring the garden to life just when it’s needed and, after the blooms, come seedheads that decorate the garden well into the autumn.” Crocosmia is also known as ‘Montbretia’ or ‘Coppertips’. As well as ‘Lucifer’, there are many other varieties of crocosmia, including hybrid varieties such as C. x crocosmiiflora ‘Carmen Brilliant’ and C. x crocosmiiflora ‘Star of the East’. C. ‘Limpopo’ Due to their fast-growing nature, these varieties have become invasive in some areas. In total, there are over 400 cultivars in the Crocosmia genus, producing a variety of flower colours, including red, orange and yellow.3 “Among my favourite Crocosmias are the golden-yellow blooms of the cultivar ‘George Davison’ and the two-tone orange and red splash of ‘Emily McKenzie’” says RHS Master of Horticulture Peter Lickorish. “These plants’ strap-like leaves add geometric shapes to herbaceous borders whose forms can otherwise be soft and lumpy.” Habitat & Growing Conditions Crocosmia is native to southern and eastern Africa, where it grows on grasslands with moderately fertile soil, and in regions with a predominantly sunny climate and high summer rainfall. That being said, many varieties of crocosmia are hardy, and can withstand low temperatures and partial shade in hot climates. The ‘Lucifer’ cultivar is a hybrid and is hardy down to temperatures of -10 to -15°C. How To Grow Crocosmia If growing in a flower bed or border, you should aim to plant C. ‘Lucifer’ in groups of 12 or more – it grows in clumps, so this will ensure you get a good cover of foliage and display of flowers in the summer. Position the corms approximately 15-20cm apart, 7-10cm beneath the ground, and at least 50cm away from neighbouring plants. Your C. ‘Lucifer’ will most likely need support from bamboo canes or similar, at least whilst it’s growing. As with many plants, it’s also important to keep the area around your crocosmia free from weeds, to prevent them from interfering with the plant’s rhizomes. Ongoing Care Soil Requirements Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is a hardy plant, and will grow in most moderately fertile soil types – including clay, chalk and sand – and most pHs. It prefers its soil moist, but not waterlogged, so you must ensure the ground has good drainage. Add a dry mulch upon planting to help keep the soil moist, but beyond that, you shouldn’t need to fertilise. Sunlight Although it can cope with partial shade, crocosmia will thrive best in full sun, so a sunny spot with limited coverage in an east, south or west-facing garden is ideal. For best results, plant the corms (similar to bulbs) during spring, once the last frosts of winter have passed. Watering Water your crocosmia whenever the soil feels dry, from spring to autumn, to make sure it stays moist. This will help the plant to grow and bloom during the flowering season. You should not need to water over winter, although you can add mulch to the soil to help protect the corms from the cold, especially if the temperature falls consistently below freezing. Supporting Crocosmia As a general rule, C. ‘Lucifer’ will grow in clumps of between 1–1.5m high and 0.2–0.5m wide at maturity. The average plant reaches a height of around 1.2M, which makes it perfect for positioning towards the back of your herbaceous border. It will likely take 3–5 years before it reaches this size. “A peony support is an elaborate way to provide a frame for plants to grow through, and keep tall stems upright,” says Peter Lickorish. “For use in a similar way, narrow steel rods can be bent around plant pots, to form a curved shape, with a leg either side, that can be pushed into the ground to make a brace.” Common Problems C. ‘Lucifer’ is a hardy plant, and is generally not vulnerable to disease. The most common problem to which it may succumb is glasshouse red spider mite – particularly during summer, if you are experiencing hot, dry weather, or if you are growing your plant in a greenhouse. Red Spider Mite Red spider mite, also known as glasshouse two-spotted spider mite, is a common pest found on garden and house plants. It feeds on sap from your plant’s leaves, causing them to take on a mottled appearance, and to drop off early – in the most severe cases, it can even lead to the death of your plant. You can help prevent the mites by misting your plant with water. If you suspect an infestation, look for signs of the tiny green mites and their eggs on the underside of leaves (you may need a magnifying glass), as well as symptoms such as mottling and paling of leaves, and the appearance of a fine silk webbing over the plant. The preferred way to control glasshouse red spider mite is biologically – pesticides can damage nearby plants, and encourage resistance in the mites. Biological controls include the Phytoseiulus persimilis and Amblyseius californicus predatory mites, and the larvae of the Feltiella acarisuga predatory midge, and can be purchased via mail order. Root Rot If crocosmia is growing in waterlogged soil, it can also be prone to root rot. Try to avoid this by planting your crocosmia in soil with good drainage. If growing in a container, make sure the pot has sufficient drainage holes. Division And Replanting Crocosmia can be divided and replanted in spring before it enters the active growth period. To do so, dig into the ground around the plant to a depth of 30cm. Carefully detach and remove some of the plant’s corms, or in the case of the Lucifer cultivar, the underground stems and roots. Trim any old or dead material, then plant the detached corms/stems immediately in their new home. Water thoroughly, and continue to do so until the plant is established. Crocosmia will appreciate being divided every 3 years or so, for the benefit of its health. Bare patches can form in the middle of clumps which are not divided regularly. References 1. Crocosmia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:20292-1 2. Powers, J. (2007, July 7). Sympathy for the Devil. The Irish Times. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/sympathy-for-the-devil-1.948840 3. Crocosmia. (2020, July 16). Tree Guide UK. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.treeguideuk.co.uk/crocosmia/
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Growing Aquilegia Makes An Excellent Seeding Plant In A Shady Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Aquilegia Plant Care Preferred Soil Watering & Feeding Sunlight Pruning Deadheading Division Common Problems References One genus, a dazzling array of varieties – and so much so that to the untrained eye, Aquilegia species, hybrids and cultivars may be mistaken for entirely different, unrelated flowers. Also called columbine, most varieties display distinctive spurs but what really distinguishes this wildflower is its nearly infinite colour gamut and its blend of exotic yet delicate charm. “I’ve always loved plants like Aquilegia because they are very forgiving,” shares Gardener Sally Flatman. “Even in a shaded garden, they grow and spread.” The columbine is but a common wildflower that has made itself multiple recipients of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit. It is a herbaceous perennial that is self-seeding and – to its greater merit – ‘self-hybridising’. Aquilegia atrata: the dark columbine wildflower This is because it cross-pollinates and inter-breeds. So if you do end up growing these lovely plants, consider not deadheading them all, instead letting them go to seed – and then take pleasure in the new strains, shapes, and hues that adorn your garden the following year! “If you grown the common Columbine species, Aquilegia vulgaris, then it will self-seed readily around your garden, finding the most favourable spots,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “If your neighbour has a cultivated form or if you choose different species or cultivars, they will hybridise readily and produce seedlings unique to your garden. “If there is one you really like you can propagate it by division as the seed won’t be true to the parent plant.” Overview Botanical Name Aquilegia Common Name(s) Granny’s Bonnet, Columbine Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Various Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Herbaceous, pale green leaves Flowers Varied flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months May, June When To Prune June, October, November Variously described as ‘beautiful’ and ‘stunning,’ yet also as a ‘shy’ ‘cottage garden’ denizen, the columbine is self-evidently many things to many people. The larger species sprawl out to 75cm or more in diameter and grow to be as tall; Aquilegia vulgaris or the common columbine reaches a full metre in height. However, dwarf cultivars are petite and are ideal for compact spaces. Dwarf columbine Aquilegia vulgaris ‘Nana’ grows to only 25cm and Aquilegia buergeriana ‘Calimero’ not even to 20cm. Notwithstanding such diversity, for the most part the flowers have five sepals and five petals, and even five pistils. Aquilegia flowers are not only visual delights for you and I; they are magnets for honey-bees, bumble-bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Hence, a bed or two of columbine will add an extra layer of nature’s beauty to your garden. With about 130 species and many more hybridised cultivars to choose from – and with such a profusion of floral ‘styles’ at that – you’ll be spoilt for choice.1 Belying its delicate and exotic blooms, columbines are one of the plant world’s good sports; these low-maintenance charmers get by on the most basic care and are not particularly picky about soil and growing conditions. This quality makes them especially suitable for casual gardeners with limited time. Here are camera angles of a beautiful Aquilegia variety I grew from seed in an outdoor planter earlier this year: You may notice how the flower stems rise high above the unfurling foliage (which is beautiful in its own right) and the highly unusual shape of the flower heads. Habitat & Growing Conditions Woodlands, riversides, hillsides, and meadows in the temperate and cool regions of the Northern Hemisphere are the favoured habitats of Aquilegia.2 The plants are further inclined to dappled sun, as on the rim of a woods, or partial shade, as near the base of a rocky outcropping. While some Aquilegia fare well in dry soil, the greater part thrive in moist, well-drained soils. Columbine season is from late spring to early summer, between the early spring bulbs and the summer flowering season. Aquilegia Plant Care Aquilegia are remarkably unfussy and sporting plants, with most varieties making do with whatever they get. However, to get the best out of your plants, tailor the growing conditions to their liking. Preferred Soil I find that these plants prefer rich soil; humus or loam mixed with sand or chalk is best but dense clay is to be avoided. The soil should not be allowed to dry out and should be kept moist but it must drain well. The ideal pH range is 6.0 to 7.0 though a ±1 swing will be perfectly acceptable to your columbine. Watering & Feeding In temperate zones twice-weekly watering is sufficient when grown in pots, but in warm climates or during hot weather more frequent watering may be necessary. Most varieties do well without any fertiliser; that said, feeding your plant with water-soluble 5-10-5 fertiliser will result in lusher foliage and brighter, healthier blooms, particularly for pot-grown plants. Sunlight Though most columbines do just fine in full sun, most do even better in dappled sun or partial shade. Plant them close to taller plants in sunny climes to provide shade for at least part of the day. Columbine ‘Crimson Star’ In the UK these plants are H7 hardy, meaning they are fully resilient against frost and freezing across the British Isles.3 Pruning For many plants, pruning is a ‘best practices’ requirement but for Aquilegia it is more of an optional, strategic decision. On an ongoing basis, you can pinch off dead flowers or snip them where the flower stalk meets the stem. Soon after the initial bloom cycle you can cut the stems to their respective halfway points and trim some of the foliage. Not only will this improve the plants’ appearance, but it may also induce a welcome second round of blooms in early summer. After any second bloom or before the end of summer, say in July, prune the plant down to its basal leaves; these are the larger leaves that issue from the main stem just above the soil. This pruning will redirect nutrients to the roots instead of to unproductive stems, thereby building resources for the following year. Deadheading When the initial flowering cycle ends, you can deadhead by cutting off the stems to the basal leaves. The first reason is to prevent inter-pollinated self-seeding, should you so wish, by this happily inter-fertile genus – if you would rather have established species and cultivars in your garden instead of random and unpredictable new strains, then you would deadhead. The second reason is to enhance plant vitality as it will result in bigger blooms the following year, and also to increase its productive lifespan as plant resources will not be spent on producing seeds. Deadheading is a special form of pruning, having to do with prompt removal of spent blooms. If you want to deadhead, cut terminal flowers about 1cm above the leaves below it. Cut lateral flowers where their stalk joins the main stem if the main stem has blooms further up the main stem, but if not then cut off the main stem itself at a point just below where the spent bloom’s stalk joins it. A happy compromise might be to deadhead somewhat more than 50% of the flowers after the second or last bloom cycle while letting the rest go to seed. Because columbines tend to wither and die in about four years, you may wish to take advantage of its propensity to self-seed. Division Remember that if you already have Aquilegia then you can ‘buy’ this plant from home by division (or separation). It is not easy but quite possible: Choose a big, spread-out clump in early spring and dig very deeply in a circle all around the roots. Pull up the plant with the soil around the roots, divide the roots with a clean sharp knife, leaving as much soil as you can around the roots, and replant promptly. Apply a mulch of compost around the divided plants. Note that divided Aquilegia may take some time to gain vitality. Red columbine (Aquilegia formosa) wildflower You can divide an Aquilegia plant every other year. Common Problems This generally healthy and trouble-free plant has but two ‘enemies’: powdery mildew and leaf miners. Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew attacks columbine when it is wet and rainy or when you have warm days and cool nights. To combat it, cut off the affected parts of the plant, doing so to a couple of centimetres from soil level if need be. Give the plant plenty of sun and ample air circulation to help it avoid another bout of powdery mildew. Leaf Miners If you see a leaf miner infestation, you can wait until the blooms are spent before cutting down and destroying affected parts of the plant or you may do so immediately. References 1. Aquilegia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:325954-2#children 2. Columbine. (n.d.). Plant Atlas. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://plantatlas2020.org/atlas/2cd4p9h.yc6 3. Aquilegia vulgaris. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/100859/i-aquilegia-vulgaris-i/details
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How To Grow Amaryllis Plant - The Wintertime Favourite Also Known As Hippeastrum
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Habitat & Growing Conditions Hippeastrum Care Common Problems References The Amaryllis plant, often considered a type of lily, is a wintertime favourite. Correctly called Hippeastrum, this houseplant bears colourful blooms in the form of a bell with its six tapered petals giving it a star shape. They come in a range of striking and brilliant hues. Some are two-toned, others have a central blaze, or even delicate veining. Eye-catching, charming, dazzling – all these adjectives and more can truthfully be applied to one or another species or cultivar of this ever-popular indoor plant. The amaryllis, a bulbous perennial, brightens up many homes during the festive season as it has the felicitous facility of flowering right around Christmas. The bulb can be induced into dormancy at any time after blooming. Similarly, it can also be ‘timed’ to bear flowers at the most suitable period by re-planting the bulb six to eight weeks before you want it to flower. Nurseries have long been selling amaryllis cultivars during November with the bulbs primed or ‘forced’ to flower in late December. Overview Botanical Name Hippeastrum Common Name(s) Amaryllis Plant Type Bulb / Perennial Flower Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H1-H2 Foliage Slightly fleshy strap leaves Flowers Large, funnel-shaped blooms in various hues When To Sow January, October, November, December Flowering Months January, February, March, April, December Native to South America, Hippeastrum species have been cultivated, crossed, and bred for a few centuries to create an amazing array of flowers.1 Most amaryllis plants are easy to grow and maintain indoors which is yet another reason for their popularity. If the bulb is treated with care, it will produce flowers for many years. Common Varieties To begin with, Hippeastrum is a genus with over 90 species to which one must add the 600-plus hybrids and cultivars of amaryllis that derive from Hippeastrum species.2 We outline a mere handful of the notable ones below – Hippeastrum papilio is a Brazilian species whose flowers are of an odd yet riveting colour combination. The outer parts of the tepals are a varying but light shade of green while the inner part ranges from carmine to maroon, often with striations. Bearing distinctly trumpet-shaped flowers of a soft vermilion hue, Hippeastrum miniatum is a decorative enough species so as to contend with the showiest of cultivars. Peruvian-Bolivian native Hippeastrum pardinum bears flowers which are star-shaped and open, with the reddish freckles and spots on yellowish tepals making it one of the most beguiling blooms. H. puniceum Hippeastrum puniceum commonly called Barbados Lily also has open, star-shaped flowers; their colour ranges from pale orange to vermilion, with a central splash of yellow to make for the prettiest of flowers. Giving the Barbados Lily species heavy competition is the ‘Orange Sovereign‘ cultivar; a variety whose flowers are of a single solid hue. The simplicity of the colour scheme and the deep flame colour combine to make for an eye-catching flower. ‘Orange Sovereign’ ‘The Red Lion’ has flowers with a rounded contour and its tepals are curved and mounded, and of a crimson hue. It is a very luxurious cultivar. ‘Minerva’, not dissimilar in shape to ‘Red Lion’, is of a more sedate shade of red but, unlike ‘Red Lion’, it has a blaze and lengthwise bands of white, making it one of the most charming cultivars. ‘Candy Floss’ ‘Candy Floss‘, true to its name, is of a candy floss pink except that this well-balanced flower’s colour comprises of many hues and tints of pink in streaks, striations, and veins. Plump, well-rounded tepals bearing red dots and spots and daubs on a white background make the ‘Flamenco Queen‘ appear voluptuous yet shy and vulnerable. The ‘White Peacock‘ – an obvious contradiction in terms – though a ‘double flower,’ has three sets of tepals. Pure white, it conveys both restraint and elegance. ‘White Peacock’ The ‘Viridi Rascal‘ is also white but this single flower has vivid red striations and red edging on its tepals combined with gentle ridging, with the overall effect one of delicate beauty. The vast range of the species and cultivars of this delightful plant means that regardless of your taste, there is a feast for the eyes and a treat for the senses for every flower enthusiast. Habitat & Growing Conditions Hippeastrum occurs in nature mainly in the tropical and sub-tropical regions of South America. Different species prefer their own place in the sun – or the shade! That is, Hippeastrum species range in preference from full sun to mostly shade. A few like damp soil and others occur in dry earth with most species preferring areas with regular rainfall but good soil drainage. Hardiness As a garden plant, amaryllis cultivars are hardy in USDA Zones 8 through 11 (RHS Zones H1C – H5) though some, like Hippeastrum x johnsonii, are hardy down to USDA Zone 5 (RHS Zone H7). A cultivar may perish during a freeze or a frost – most cultivars do best in screened sun or morning sun. The most important requirement is that the soil must drain well and not retain any water. You can transfer your garden amaryllis indoors for the winter by simply removing the bulb from its bed at the beginning of autumn and inducing dormancy by keeping it in a cool, dark place without water or fertiliser for two to three weeks and then re-planting it in a pot. Hippeastrum Care Though Hippeastrum makes a lovely addition to any garden, our guide treats it as a houseplant. If you plant a cultivar outdoors simply adapt the guidelines accordingly. Use a largeish flower-pot because amaryllis plants are, to some or another degree, top-heavy. Aim for a room temperature of 20-21°C and place the pot where it will get four to six hours of sun daily. Soil Requirements The best soil pH range for amaryllis is between 6 and 7. Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly advises: “For many potted bulbs I usually use a peat-free John Innes no.2 growing medium (the name of the ‘recipe’ rather than the producer – it is sold by different companies).” “This has added grit for drainage but also good nutrient content and moisture retention – perfect for most bulbs in pots.” The soil should be composed of about one-third perlite or gravel and two-thirds of some combination of peat moss, loam, or compost. Plant the bulb so that about one-third of it is above the soil; it is imperative that the nose not be covered by soil. It is just as imperative that the soil drains properly. Watering & Feeding Upon planting the bulb immediately water it thoroughly and thereafter water it lightly or moderately every few days. As leaves and stalks sprout, watering should gradually be increased in amount and frequency, and fertilise every two months with a 10-10-10 houseplant fertiliser keeping in mind that it is worse to over-fertilise amaryllis than to under-fertilise it. A good rule of thumb is to water when the topsoil is dry to the touch, to water once or twice a week, and to try to keep the soil just moist but never wet. Plant the bulb in October to enjoy blooms during the holiday season. Common Problems Bulb Rot Hippeastrum is vulnerable to various diseases – where bulb rot is concerned, prevention is better than cure. Assuming healthy bulbs, the only causes for this disease are overwatering, waterlogged soil, and poor drainage. Therefore, if you make sure not to overwater and also ensure that your soil drains well, you eliminate bulb rot. Pests Pests like mealybugs, aphids, mites, grasshoppers, and bulb maggots can attack the plant with mealybugs being the most common houseplant pest. Grasshoppers lay egg pods beside amaryllis bulbs. These hatch in spring and cover the plant. Here too, prevention is the better option. Keep checking your plants for these pests and if you observe them, dislodge the smaller pests with blasts of water and remove grasshoppers by hand. If the problem persists, use an insecticidal soap solution. Dilute to specifications and spray on the plant. If your mealybug-infested plant is in the garden, you can release beneficial insects like ladybugs – these prey upon mealybugs. Aphids are perhaps the most dangerous of pests because they breed rapidly and in numbers, and cause irreversible harm to the plant. “If you spot an aphid infestation, use an insecticidal soap and/or blast off with water,” adds Colin. Bulb mites are more difficult to spot for obvious reasons. A side benefit of annual removal of the bulb from the soil and later re-planting is that you can inspect the bulb for mites (and other pests or disease, bruising, and onset of rot). References 1. Hippeastrum aviflorum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:993998-1 2. Hippeastrum Herb. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144107351
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These Are The Secrets To Growing Bamboo From A Pro Scottish Nursery Owner
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Where To Grow Bamboo How To Grow Bamboo Bamboo Care How Fast Does Bamboo Grow? Common Problems References The simple, cool, almost austere beauty of bamboo is an example of Nature’s own original version of ‘Swedish Design’ – except that bamboo is China through and through. This tree is of enormous cultural significance in China and even other Far Eastern countries. In this guide we share how to grow and care for bamboo plants in British gardens, including some tips from our interview with Kerri Dall, the owner of Scottish Bamboo. “Living in rural Aberdeenshire in Northeast Scotland, we wanted to create a lush, evergreen, jungle-style garden to give us all year-round interest in our garden”, explains Kerri. “However, with a very inclement & temperamental climate and cold winters often reaching -10°C or below on a regular basis, we needed to ensure we were growing exceptionally hardy plants. “We found bamboo to be incredibly hardy, and our 2-acre garden soon became a tropical haven. This started as a garden hobby but we turned our love for bamboo into our business in 2008”. Overview Botanical Name Bambusoideae Common Name(s) Bamboo Plant Type Perennial Native Area Americas, Tropical Africa, Asia Hardiness Rating H6-H7 Foliage Varied shoots, running or clump-forming types Flowers Flowering variable and infrequent When To Sow March, April, May When To Prune March, April The perfectly cylindrical, jointed, cool green shafts of bamboo are instantly recognisable. What is probably not instantly recognisable is that bamboo is a member of the grass family, Poaceae. Yes, bamboo is botanically and taxonomically related to grasses – the grass of your lawn, grasslands, meadows, and savannahs.1 The bamboo sub-family Bambusoideae comprises of three ‘tribes’ and a total of 1,675 species.2 Most species of this evergreen perennial flourish in humid and warm conditions in temperate and tropical climates. However, other species grow in somewhat more extreme climates such as the cold montane regions of the Himalayas and the hot tropical hills of Central America.3 It is a very hardy plant and various species bring an unlikely Far-Eastern touch across much of Europe, including the United Kingdom. This woody grass bears flowers but does so even less frequently than that proverbial blue moon is seen; most species flower once every 60-120 years.4 One cannot predict when a bamboo tree will burst into flower. Bamboo habitat stretches in a band across the world through its temperate and tropical zones. Giant bamboo in the Royal Botanic Gardens, Sri Lanka Each bamboo genus has a particular, preferred habitat which may be of vastly different areas in size. Though it may seem surprising, many clumping and running types of bamboo are hardy to H7 and their root systems and rhizomes can withstand temperatures well below freezing – down to about -30°C. Over the years, various species of bamboo have been introduced in Europe and the United States. Large species whose culms have high tensile strength, for example Guadua angustifolia, are grown on commercial farms for construction purposes. Small species which are visually appealing, e.g. Chusquea culeou ‘Cana Prieta’, are cultivated in nurseries for ornamental uses. Where To Grow Bamboo If you’re looking to grow bamboo in your garden for the first time, Kerri Dall recommends considering the right bamboo for the right place in your garden. “Think about what height you want the bamboo to reach when it is fully grown and choose one which doesn’t grow any larger than what you require. “If you want to grow bamboo as a hedge or a screen, plant the bamboo as small plants, space them around 1m apart and, within 3-5 years, you will have a reasonably established screen”. How To Grow Bamboo Matching bamboo’s ever-increasing popularity, an ever-rising number of suppliers sell quite a number of species of the plant. Nurseries like Scottish Bamboo sell potted bamboo plants as online sellers, specialising in specific bamboo varieties. Online nurseries sell various species of bamboo for different purposes including screening and fencing, planting in large gardens, and for indoor ornamental purposes. You are not limited to acquiring bamboo by way of purchase; bamboo very sportingly propagates from cuttings. Growing From Cuttings Taking cuttings from the many varieties of garden bamboo is fairly straightforward. A cutting can be taken from a plant’s culm as well as from emerging new growth. Autumn is the best season both to prune bamboo and take cuttings as well as to plant cuttings. First, take a clean pair of pruners or loppers. To take cuttings from a culm, choose a mature plant (whose culm is) at least 30cm tall, preferably more. Take a cutting from the top of the culm. The cutting should be about 10cm and include at least one node and at least one internode. It should not be more than one-third the height of the plant, preferably less. Dip the cutting in root hormone liquid and plant it in the appropriate type of soil. You can also take cuttings from new growth that is emerging from the ground: Take a cutting 20-25cm in length, making the cut at a 45-degree angle. Put it in a transparent pot filled with water and let it remain for one to two weeks, while you observe whether and how well the cutting is taking root. Change the water in the pot every alternate day. Assuming the cutting is rooting, prepare a planting pot or an outdoor bed with the type of soil most suited to bamboo and plant the cutting. Growing From Rhizomes Autumn is the best season to grow bamboo from rhizomes, though early spring after the last frost is also a good time. Using a trowel and a spade dig up the soil and expose a rhizome. Using a craft knife or other knife with a sharp edge cut off a piece that has about three growth buds. Clean the dirt and soil off the ends using a soft cloth and water. Plant it horizontally in a pot, buds facing up, under a layer of soil 6-8cm. Sprinkle water using a watering can but only to the extent of making the soil damp all through as overwatering can cause the rhizome cutting to rot. Water it every two days in a similar fashion. Keep the pot in the shade and away from direct or full sun but in a warm place. You may sprinkle a teaspoon of fertiliser with high phosphorous content. After about five weeks, break the pot and transplant the rooting rhizome into the selected spot in your garden. Because the rhizome needs to be protected from sunlight, transplant it well after sunset. Bamboo Care With over 1,400 species divided into three distinct tribes, and with stark differences between species, no single set of care and growing tips can account for all of Bamboodom.5 In the main, bamboos do not require extensive care. Watering Young bamboo plants need to be watered regularly and amply; mature bamboo trees growing in open ground do not need to be watered as frequently. “When first planting bamboo in the garden, the most important care you can give the plant is water. Bamboo plants are quite thirsty for water when first planted, but soon begin to look after themselves when they’re settled in” says Kerri. Potted bamboo needs to be watered more often; in hot or dry weather water it three or four times a week. If your bamboo plant’s leaves curl inward, it is telling you it needs more water. Soil Requirements Grow your potted bamboo in nutrient-rich soil with a pH of between 6 and 7. Bamboo does not tolerate waterlogged conditions so make sure that your soil drains well. As long as your soil has good drainage, over-watering will not cause any harm to your bamboo. Sunlight & Temperature Most species of bamboo prefer more sun than shade so try to ensure that potted bamboos get sufficient sun. If you want to go the extra mile, mist your potted bamboos every other day or keep a humidifier nearby as most bamboos thrive in humid conditions. Applying mulch to your bamboo is dually advantageous if you experience temperature extremes. In hot or dry weather, mulch prevents rapid evaporation of soil moisture. During cold snaps, mulch saves rhizomes and roots from freezing and possibly dying. Fertilising On feeding bamboo, Kerri advises: “Feeding at least once a year in Spring is recommended. “Bamboos love chicken muck or any other type of manure. I’d also recommend feeding every 2 weeks during the summer months, especially if you are trying to establish a screen or hedge with your bamboo”. You could allow dead leaves to remain where they fall; when they decompose they provide a natural mulch to their mother plant. Most species of bamboo are nitrogen-hungry so use some 10-5-5 fertiliser or go for an organic fertiliser consisting of blood meal with composted coffee grounds and vegetable refuse. How Fast Does Bamboo Grow? Bamboo has a well-deserved reputation for being one of the Plant Kingdom’s fastest-growing members. Bamboo growth is neither uniform nor consistent; it is dependent upon a few factors such as species, soil, water and climate. That explained, commonly-grown species in temperate regions can grow up to 9 or 10cm in a single day during the growing season. According to Guinness World Records, bamboo is not just a contender, it is the Plant Kingdom’s undisputed speed champion: unnamed species have been clocked at 91cm of growth in 24 hours (and that too in the United Kingdom).6 That works out to an average growth rate of 3.8cm per hour. In China, it is an annual occurrence for Phyllostachys edulis (‘Moso’) to emerge from the ground every spring and within a few weeks reach a height of up to 75cm. It is large bamboo species’ uniquely fast growth rates that, combined with these species’ great strength and versatility, making them the ‘go-to’ tree for many kinds of building and construction materials. Common Problems Bamboos outside their native habitats and especially those kept indoors are susceptible to diseases and insects. If you spot an insect infestation, use a thick swab dipped in insecticidal soap solution to wash the leaves. Do not apply the soap to the underside of the leaves if the insects are only on the upward side, and do not wash all the leaves on the same day. Increase the airflow and, if the plant is not already under full sun, increase its exposure to the sun. Yellow patches at or near the base of the plant may signal a fungus attack. In gardens and other cultivated settings, incorrect exposure or watering, or improper care may well result in problems. While underwatering can be a cause of concern, its effects can easily be reversed by increasing the amount of water given to the plant. Much more dangerous is overwatering, especially when the soil has poor drainage. This deadly combination can cause the roots and rhizomes to begin to rot. Other problems occur when exposure to the sun is too little or too much for the species in question. Too much sun will cause the leaves to scorch and die, affecting the rest of the plant. (‘Lucky bamboo’ is not, in fact, bamboo and so its well-known problem of rot caused by over-submergence is not discussed here.) How To Get Rid Of Unwanted Bamboo Bamboo has a reputation for becoming unwanted in gardens,” shares Colin Skelly, an expert in all things horticulture. “I’ve removed many over the years, using diggers as well as spades. “The right bamboos in the right place make fantastic and versatile garden plants, but do your homework. “Ideally, see the plant you think you want to grow in a similar setting. “Once planted, if it does look like you may want to revise your thinking and remove it, act before it really gets going.” You can get rid of unwanted bamboo using mechanical methods or chemical processes. We outline a mechanical method by which you can clear your plot of bamboo. First, cut back all the culms to the ground. When the cut-back culms emerge again, wait until they are about 60cm high, then cut them back again. Repeat three times. This repeated cutting will exhaust the plant’s subsoil food reserves so that it is weakened or even dies. Next, water the soil very well to the extent of waterlogging it, and keep it waterlogged. Using a spade, shovel, and hoe as appropriate, dig up the soil and grub out all the rhizomes and root systems you can find. Use a heavy rake to ‘dredge’ the soil of any hard-to-find rhizomes. Finally, pour ample boiling water in the plot to be cleared. When invasive species of running bamboo take over a parcel of land, they can be very difficult to eliminate because of their underground network of rhizomes and root systems. Sometimes the last resort and only resort is to plough up the land. References 1. Yeasmin, L., Ali, M. N., Gantait, S., & Chakraborty, S. (2015). Bamboo: an overview on its genetic diversity and characterization. 3 Biotech, 5(1), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13205-014-0201-5 2. Bamboo Genera. (n.d.). ECHO Community. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.echocommunity.org/en/resources/cf9deeb0-620e-487e-8c43-9fbc9e3b0381 3. Hornaday, F. (2022, May 26). Bamboo in the mountains: Reaching record elevations. Bambu Batu: The House of Bamboo. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from Hornaday, F. (2022, May 26). Bamboo in the mountains: Reaching record elevations. Bambu Batu: The House of Bamboo. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://bambubatu.com/bamboo-in-the-mountains-high-elevations/ 4. Shimbun, S. (2021, June 18). Once in a Century bamboo blossoms observed in western Japan. Kyodo News. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://english.kyodonews.net/news/2021/06/232628087928-once-in-a-century-bamboo-blossoms-observed-in-western-japan.html 5. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2023c, February 9). Bamboo | plant. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/bamboo 6. Fastest growing plant. (n.d.). Guinness World Records. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/fastest-growing-plant
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Where Alchemilla Plant Care Is Concerned, 'Be Imaginative!' Say The Experts
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Alchemilla Plant Care & Growing Tips Pruning Alchemilla Alchemilla Varieties Common Problems References Alchemilla, commonly called Lady’s Mantle, is a perennial. The Alchemilla genus occurs across every continent and consists of 757 species, but Alchemilla mollis is found mainly in the temperate and montane zones of Europe and Asia, ranging from Finland down to Turkey.1 These herbaceous plants occur in clumps and have compound leaves that are lobed or divided, with serrated edges. Come summer, clusters of tiny polysepalous flowers (where sepals are free from the flower) make a demure appearance. Overview Botanical Name Alchemilla mollis Common Name(s) Lady’s Mantle Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe, Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Palmately lobed basal leaves Flowers Sprays of tiny yellow / green flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months July, August, September Curiously, this humble plant belongs to the same Botanical family, Rosaceae, as does the most popular plant of all: the much-feted rose.2 Other genera of this family include almost all the berries plus peaches, pears, apricots, plums, and more, so Lady’s Mantle is the poor country cousin among its distinguished family’s members. Unlike most garden plants, Alchemilla does not have stems, but, has rhizomes.3 These are underground or sub-soil stems, not to be mistaken for roots, that connect the surface shoots and the root system of the plant. The significance of rhizomes is that they play a part in plant reproduction, and, hence, is a botanical fact of value to the gardener. This little plant’s small flowers have no (proper) petals and are comprised only of sepals whose colour ranges from yellow through lime green to chartreuse depending on the species. Most Alchemilla species are super-hydrophobic or super-water-repellent. This quirk of Lady’s Mantle brings about its special charm: coruscant, dew-like water droplets coating its leaves. How To Grow Alchemilla First, the good news – and the bad news. If you already have some or another Alchemilla plants, you will not need to grow those, for Alchemilla self-seed aggressively and thereby also ‘self-grow’. Indeed, they do so to the point of becoming invasive during prime season. You can propagate Lady’s Mantle from seeds or seedlings, or by division, also called separation. Growing From Seed Seeds can be sown indoors in pots or directly in the chosen spot in your garden. If sowing outdoors, do so in early spring after any possibility of frost. Sow seeds 12-15 inches apart, cover with a sprinkling of soil, and water regularly and well. It will take 3-4 weeks for the seeds to germinate. If sowing indoors in pots, do so one-and-a-half to two months before your projected transplant date which should be after spring’s last frost. Transplant when A. mollis and/or similar species have grown to about four inches. Ideally the soil should be rich, moist and humus-based. Any potted seedlings acquired from a friend or a nursery may be transplanted using the same guidelines as above. Division Alchemilla are easy to divide or separate because of the thick sub-soil rhizomes and laterally-traversing root systems. Divide the plants in spring or end of summer, before or after flowering season. Plant Care & Growing Tips Lady’s Mantle is not at all fussy and requires but little care and attention. Most species do not tolerate droughty conditions so ensure that your plants do not sit in dried-out soil for any great length of time. Sunlight They thrive in any and all light from more than half shade up to full sun; however, most species need to be protected from full sun during a hot summer. In such weather, make sure to regularly water your plants and give them midday shade. Soil Alchemilla varieties grow well in most any soil – be it chalky, loamy, clayey or even sandy – so long as the soil is kept moist (but not wet) and well drained. Alchemilla does best in soils of pH 5.5 and 7.5. Measure your soil’s pH value and, if necessary, acidify or alkalinise. Add humus to the soil, especially in dry or hot climates. Though fertiliser is superfluous, if your Alchemilla are not thriving use slow-release organic fertiliser in spring. It takes two years or more from germination for Alchemilla to bloom, so, no matter how much you may pamper seedlings and young plants, do be patient. Deadheading Alchemilla is one of those uncommon plants for which an ‘anti-growing’ tip is called for. They self-seed to the extent of running riot and even becoming an invasive species. To keep this trait in check, move fast to deadhead spent flower stalks. Pruning Alchemilla Pruning as such is not necessary for Alchemilla. What you could do is to deadhead withered flower stalks and you may be rewarded with a second flush in late summer. If Alchemilla foliage or flowers appear worn or untidy, cut back the stalks to ground level right after the flowering season is over, and new growth will start to sprout. Colin Skelly recommends: “I cut back Alchemilla mollis plants to the ground as they tend to look untidy as summer progresses, especially after prolonged dry weather. “When they reappear they look much fresher and will look tidier going into the autumn.” You can obtain fresh growth at any time during the season by cutting back the plant. As most Alchemilla species self-propagate quite rapidly, you may get undesired seedlings in stray parts of your garden. If so, uproot them early. Alchemilla Varieties A. ellenbeckii is at the lower extreme in height, growing to only about two inches. Its silver-edged leaves are less than an inch in width. The Dwarf Lady’s Mantle of Eastern Europe is also at the short end of the scale, growing to only half-a-foot. With its clumps of palmate leaves, it is often used as groundcover. At the higher extreme is A. mollis ‘Robusta’ type which grows to two feet tall and also two feet wide. Perhaps A. conjuncta combines the best qualities of the species. It is hardy in severe and wintry climates, attains a height of about one foot even, bears lime-to-chartreuse flowers, and an attractive silver edging adorns its leaves. Finally, this is one Alchemilla that is not an aggressive self-seeder and, so, it will not try to conquer your garden! Besides borders and edges, Lady’s Mantle are often used in cottage gardens and rock gardens. Where Alchemilla is concerned, be imaginative! For example, you can make sharp use of a short or dwarf species to edge and line your walkway or driveway. Common Problems Alchemilla is generally not prone to diseases and is pest-resistant (which are indicators of its healing qualities). For these reasons too it is a low-maintenance plant. The only problems to watch out for are scorching and fungus. During sunny and hot summer days, protect the plant by giving it shade. Fungus may attack the plant in very humid conditions and particularly so if the crown remains damp. While deer and rabbits give Alchemilla a pass, cattle, sheep, and horses will happily chomp on most species so if you live in the countryside or in farmland, watch out for the mantle-munching ruminants. References 1. Alchemilla L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 4, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30008181-2#children 2. Cullen, J. (2005). Alchemilla Speciosa. Curtis’s Botanical Magazine, 23(1), 37–42. https://www.jstor.org/stable/45065731 3. S. (n.d.-b). Lady’s Mantle. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/ladys-mantle-alchemilla-mollis/
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'Hellebore Tends To Thrive In Dappled Shade' - Here's How To Best Care For Yours
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Hellebore Care Habitat & Growing Conditions Common Problems References Hellebore plants are very popular in the UK and they can be found in countless gardens across the country. Hellebore is the name given to a species of perennial flowering plants. There are 15 accepted species which fall under the Hellebore umbrella – each of which with its own unique appearance and care requirements.1 Overview Botanical Name Helleborus Common Name(s) Christmas Rose, Lenten Rose Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe and Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Herbaceous or semi-evergreen Flowers Bowl-shaped flowers When To Sow April, May Flowering Months January, February, March, December When To Prune January, February, March The various plants that encompass the hellebore genus were first found throughout Asia and Europe.2 Although hellebore plants are similar in their appearance to roses, and in fact many are referred to using that term, they are not related to the rose family at all. ‘Christmas Rose’ Hellebore Hellebore plants have five sepals, which unlike petals, do not fall and will often remain on the plant for several months. The colour of the sepals will depend on the species; some of the colouring you’ll find on the sepals of hellebore plants include dark red, white and pink, yellow, double pink and blue-black. Something that makes hellebore plants attractive to gardeners is their ability to cope well in all conditions, with many species being evergreen and able to withstand frost and other harsh conditions very well. Planting If you want to grow your own hellebore, then the good news is that they’re quite easy to grow. They generally last throughout the year and can withstand most weather conditions, including harsh winters. The first thing you’ll need to decide on is which type of hellebore plant you want to grow. Where To Plant When choosing a position for your plants, ideally you will put them in a spot that gets at least some sunlight during the day. There are certain species of hellebore that will grow in the shade, such as Helleborus foetidus, but generally, you’ll want to ensure they get at least some sunlight during the day. Choosing the right time to plant is another important factor when growing your own hellebore. When To Plant Generally, you’ll want to plant them in either autumn or spring. It’s better to avoid planting them in the summer since they’re less likely to get the water they need to thrive. You’ll also want to consider the condition of the soil where you’re planting them. It should be moist but not waterlogged – if the soil is in poor condition or extremely dry, then you should improve it as best you can before planting your hellebore. If you’re planting multiple hellebore plants then be sure to leave a good amount of space between them. There should be at least 30cm between each one, so they have enough room to grow. Hellebore Care Feeding & Watering Once you’ve planted your hellebore, you’ll need to make sure they’re properly watered and fed. Any newly planted hellebore will need regular watering throughout their first season, from spring to summer. Even plants that are well-established will need to be watered during dry spells. Providing you plant your hellebore in good conditions, it shouldn’t be necessary in most cases to feed them. If you notice that they’re not growing well then you can use fertiliser, but often poor growth is due to the soil either being too dry or overly saturated so be sure to check if this is the problem first. Propagation There are a couple of ways to propagate hellebore plants – the first is by division. To accomplish this, you should carefully dig the plants up, keeping the roots in-tact, and then splitting the clump so that each section has at least one shoot. You can then plant the divisions, making sure to water them well after planting until they’re properly established. It will take a good while (up to 2 years) for plants that are propagated this way to flower properly but the results are worth it. The other method for propagating hellebore is using seeds. To do this you should collect the seeds from the pods once they start opening and then sow them, preferably during the summer. Habitat & Growing Conditions Many people mistakenly believe that hellebore in the wild grow in the woodland and in the shade exclusively, however, this is not the case. Hellebore can thrive in a wide variety of settings, from mountains to meadows. They are extremely hardy and can survive most weather conditions very well. In many of the places they can be found growing in the wild, hellebore will only get partial shade and can experience weeks or sometimes even months without water. “Although hellebores can be grown in sunny spots (except Helleborus foetidus), they tend to thrive in dappled shade as they dislike being either too wet or too dry,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. During this period, they can go dormant, yet they will still flourish again once there’s been a downpour. Growing Conditions When grown in the garden, hellebore thrives in deep soil that’s able to retain moisture without getting waterlogged due to heavy rain in the autumn and winter. Drainage is often an issue with hellebore and ideally, when planted in the garden, it would be in soil that’s mixed with sand to allow for better drainage. It’s a good idea to add mulch to the soil where any hellebore is planted – an organic leaf mulch would work best. If you want hellebore plants to flower their best, then it’s recommended that you plant them in a spot where they are fully exposed to the sun during winter and early spring. Some shade in the summer would be best but hellebore is still able to survive, even if they are fully exposed to the sun. If they don’t get enough water during this time, they’ll simply go dormant. It’s important to bear in mind that overwatering can easily kill hellebore and is much worse for them than being exposed to too much sunlight. If you’re going to feed hellebore, then it’s best to do it in late winter and use just a small amount of fertiliser. You can cut off the leaves in the winter if you want, but it’s not necessary since they will be shed during the springtime. It is a good idea to remove leaves if you notice any fungal spores on them, however. Common Problems Unfortunately, hellebore plants are prone to certain diseases, particularly if they’re not looked after properly. Leaf Spot One such disease is known as hellebore leaf spot. This is a type of fungal disease that affects the leaves and the stem, leaving reddish-brown marks. The best way to prevent the spread of leaf spot is to immediately remove any leaves that have been affected. Another good way to prevent leaf spot is to cut off any foliage at the end of the season – this stops it from spreading throughout the winter. Black Death Another common disease that hellebore suffers from is known as hellebore black death and is as serious as it sounds. There is no cure for this so if you have any plants that develop symptoms, you should dig them up immediately and destroy them. Grey Mould Grey mould is another common disease for hellebore plants. It causes the tissue to decay and a fuzzy mould to grow over the parts of the plant where the fungus is present. Hellebore plants are most prone to developing grey mould if they have an open wound or if they’re in less than optimal conditions. Humidity does play a role in the fungus developing but it can affect hellebore plants at any time of the year, including winter. Leaf Miner Hellebore isn’t just prone to diseases that are naturally occurring – it can also be targeted by insects. Phytomyza hellebore, or hellebore leaf miner as it’s also known, is a very small fly that infests certain species of hellebore plants. Aphids Another type of insect that attacks hellebore plants is known as hellebore aphid. This small insect will coat hellebore plants in a layer of honeydew that will cause the leaves and flowers to become mouldy. What makes hellebore aphids particularly harmful to hellebore plants is that they attack every part of them, including the stem, leaves and the inside of the flowers. Fighting Pests & Diseases In dealing with insects that are harmful to hellebore, you can either use insecticides or in the case of hellebore aphids, remove them by hand. It’s always important to tackle the problem of diseases and insects early on when you first notice symptoms – doing so will enable you to prevent the problem from spreading and allow your plants to flourish. References 1. Helleborus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:33158-1 2. Species and distribution – Helleborus. (n.d.). Helleborus Gold Collection. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.helleborus.de/en/plant-facts/species-and-distribution
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Lily Of The Valley: Make Sure To Introduce This Plant Correctly Before Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Lily Of The Valley Plant Care Common Problems References Providing it’s introduced in the right way, pretty Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) can make an attractive and fragrant addition to your garden. Sometimes called the ‘flower of fairies’, Lily of the valley is a woodland flowering plant, characterised by its bell-shaped, white pendant blooms of 5–10mm in diameter, which appear in springtime – as well as its bright green, lance-shaped leaves. It also bears fruit – orangey-red berries which grow to approximately 5mm in diameter. Lily of the valley is a beautiful and sweet-smelling flower (the heady, floral scent is a popular choice for perfumes) and shouldn’t cause any problems if handled correctly. Overview Botanical Name Convallaria majalis Common Name(s) Lily of the Valley, Muguet, May Bells, May Lily, Mary’s Tears Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe and Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Elliptic to narrowly ovate leaves Flowers Fragrant bell-shaped flowers When To Sow July, August, September Flowering Months June, July There are 3 species of Lily of the valley – majalis, keiskei and montana – originating from Eurasia, Japan and China, and the United States respectively (although the native status of this last one is questionable).1 Despite the name, Lily of the valley is actually a member of the Asparagaceae family – otherwise known as asparagus.2 Lily of the valley consists of two basal leaves with a flowering stalk in the middle, which produces hanging strands of up to 15 flowers each. The flowers are usually white but can also rarely be pink. Lily of the valley grows to a maximum of around 20cm tall. In its natural habitat, Lily of the valley will flower in early spring for 3–4 weeks – although this may begin later during a particularly cold year or climate. The plant is perennial, meaning it lives more than two years, and in cooler climates, the leaves will stay year-round (in hot weather they tend to die off). Other names you may know Lily of the valley as include Muguet, May bells, May lily, Mary’s tears and Our Lady’s tears. Fast Spreading Note that a single Lily of the valley plant will spread quickly if allowed to do so (to the point of invasiveness) by forming underground networks of rhizomes.3 The individual pips then break the surface and grow into leafy shoots in spring, whilst remaining connected to the surrounding shoots underground – creating a colony of duplicate plants. Cloned Lily of the valley plants are sterile and won’t grow berries – multiple unique plants are required to pollinate the plants and produce the seed-filled berries. Habitat & Growing Conditions Lily of the valley is native to the Northern Hemisphere, in particular, Europe and Asia.4 Sunlight It favours a cooler, temperate climate, and environments such as forests and woodland, where the close-knit trees provide it with plenty of shade, whilst still allowing a little sunlight through. This perennial plant will not thrive in year-round hot climates, or in areas with inadequate shade. It will, however, cope fine in the summer of a temperate climate, when its leaves naturally wilt and die off after the spring flowering period. Preferred Soil The soil preference of Lily of the valley is a moist, sandy soil with a slightly alkaline pH. It also likes a lot of space, with room to expand outwards whilst growing. This is a very fast-spreading plant; the underground network of rhizomes will keep expanding and shooting new roots until it meets with some kind of barrier. For this reason, you often see large blankets of Lily of the valley covering forest floors and surrounding the bases of trees in woodland. As they need moist soil with good drainage, the best position for Lily of the valley is halfway down a slope or hillside, where they will benefit from lots of water run-off, whilst not sitting in boggy ground or stagnant water. How To Grow Lily Of The Valley These are the steps I followed to successfully grow Lily of the valley in my garden: Choose a shady spot in your garden, ideally under some trees, with good drainage. Mark out the area you want the plant to grow in and cordon it off with garden edging to prevent it from spreading out of control. Make sure to choose a place with plenty of room for the plant to grow into. You can also grow in containers should you wish to grow this plant without allowing it to spread. Prepare the soil with a layer of rich, well-fertilised soil. Plant the pips in late autumn, around November, ready for the winter dormancy period which will precede a spring flowering. Make sure to use gloves to prevent irritation. If successful you should see the first shoots of your plant begin to emerge in early spring. Plant Care Aspect Lily of the valley thrives best in areas with temperate climates and cool winters. Being a perennial plant, it’s hardy and adaptable, which makes it easy to care for – and given that the UK is one of its native habitats, it’s well-suited to life outside in your garden. To help it grow even more successfully, try to choose a shady spot to plant it, such as by a fence or under some trees, to replicate its natural environment. Ideally, it should get a few hours of natural light in the early morning, before spending the rest of the day in the shade. If you plant it in a place with too much sun, it probably won’t flower. During summer, when the temperature gets too hot, your Lily of the valley will start to wilt and the leaves will go crispy. This is a normal part of your plant’s lifecycle – when this happens, prune the crispy leaves, leaving the healthy green ones. Watering & Feeding Make sure to monitor the moisture levels in the soil and keep it well-watered in the event of a dry spell (avoiding the leaves to prevent fungus). You will probably need to water the soil well during sunny periods and summer. In terms of feeding, it doesn’t require much – aim to add a 2-inch layer of organic compost annually. Common Problems Lily of the valley is naturally resistant to most pests, but there are some species which are able (and very willing) to eat the plant, including slugs, leaf beetles and some moth and butterfly larvae. Keep an eye out for bugs such as these munching on your plant. Fungus Lily of the valley can be vulnerable to fungus, due to its preference for moist environments. Look out for yellowing on the leaves, brown spots and discoloured veins. To try to prevent this, make sure that when you water the soil, you don’t get any additional water on the leaves, and keep a decent fungicide handy, just in case. Controlling Spreading Make sure your Lily of the valley has enough space to grow – as much as you want it to. As mentioned above, I do find that healthy Lily of the valley can spread very quickly, and you will need to set boundaries if you want to restrict its growing area. “The characteristic spread of Lily of the Valley makes it ideal if you want it to colonise an area, but problematic if you either don’t want it to spread into adjacent areas or you want it to stay in one area,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This makes containing it with a barrier or constant division and removal a must. “I tend to plant it in borders that are naturally contained by hard barriers where it tends to migrate the edges. “Every year I just divide and replant to redistribute it back to its starting place.” You can do this with garden edging or root barriers, available from garden centres. I have had a lot of success using root barriers for rhizomatous plants like bamboo and Convallaria majalis. If you prefer, you can also grow Lily of the valley in a large container or shallow pot, filled with a good quality potting mix and organic fertiliser, and placed on feet to ensure sufficient drainage. Growing it in this way will allow you to easily control the spread of the plant, as well as the amount of water in the soil. You should still place the pot outside, to allow the plant to benefit from the cool air and seasonal changes of its natural habitat. References 1. Convallaria majalis (European lily-of-the-valley). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/convallaria/majalis/ 2. Convallaria majalis. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/convallaria-majalis/ 3. lily of the valley: Convallaria majalis (Liliales: Liliaceae). (n.d.). Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.invasiveplantatlas.org/subject.html?sub=5375 4. Convallaria majalis. (n.d.-b). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=c250
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Delphinium Expert Graham Austin On The Important Considerations For Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Delphinium Delphinium Care Common Problems Propagation References Delphinium, often called Larkspur, is a perennial plant bearing clusters of richly-hued flowers. It is native to the Northern Hemisphere and is found in many settings, ranging from hilly meadows to well-tended flower beds. This beautiful ornamental flower is not only fairly easy to grow, it brings both eye-catching colour and uncommon grace to a garden. In crafting this guide we interviewed delphinium expert Graham Austin, the Owner of Home Farm Plants specialist nursery. “Whilst training at a nursery, I was given the opportunity to check the delphiniums following their winter dormancy” explains Graham. “I liked how their tall spikes stood out from other perennials and my interest grew from there”. Overview Botanical Name Delphinium Common Name(s) Larkspur Plant Type Perennial Flower / Annual Flower Native Area China Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Palmately lobed basal leaves Flowers Showy flowers in spikes, racemes or panicles When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune September, October The Delphinium plant comprises a stem or ‘spike’ varying in length from about ten centimetres to over two metres, depending on the species. It has palmate leaves with well-defined lobes that are often pointed. Even here one gets variety: depending on the species each leaf has from three to seven lobes. Crowning the plant is a raceme of brilliantly-coloured flowers, closely clustered. In nature, the colours range from light blue to deep purple, making the Delphinium one of the few flowers to occur naturally in true tones of blue. Less common species and hybrids and cultivars come in many other colours including white, yellows and reds. In the vast majority of species, the flower, as we see it, comprises not only of the petals proper but also the (coloured) sepals. Five sepals – usually mistaken for petals – fan out within which four much smaller petals are set. The top sepal projects a rearward spur as if to defend the pretty flower. In many varieties, right in the centre of this delicate assembly is a decorative eye or ‘bee’ – a floral ‘beauty spot’. The distinctively-shaped bud reputedly gave the plant its name: the bud reminds one of a dolphin’s head and the top petal’s trailing spur resembles a fish’s body, leading the Hellenes to christen the plant after the Greek word for dolphin – delphíni.1 Stately and upright but swaying or even willowy in a breeze, and with a gamut of brilliant reds, purples, or blues colouring the floral crown, Delphiniums make the ideal backdrop to a garden. In fact, this beautiful plant can be made the centrepiece of a garden. How To Grow Delphinium Soil Requirements I would argue that the best type of soil for Delphinium is deep, loamy, and limey soil tending to the alkaline, though many types will grow perfectly well in neutral or acidic soils too. Adding compost to even good soil will improve results by effecting richer, more intense, blooms. If the soil’s pH is on the low side, some lime may be added to it. Most critically, the soil must have very good drainage as undrained or even poorly-drained soil will cause root rot. Aspect The plant should get about seven hours of exposure to the sun. Originally a native of hilly regions and climes, the Delphinium does best in relatively open spaces that are not very close to trees or solid man-made structures. Given its flowering height, I find that blustery sites are unsuitable for Delphiniums; however, gentle breezes that cause it to sway not only pose any danger, but they will also enhance the beauty of this ornamental plant. Delphinium thrives in cool and moist climates that drop to near freezing in the winter. Transplanting When transplanting Delphiniums, the root-ball should be just underneath the soil level. Pack the plant tightly into the soil to ensure that no air-pockets exist around the roots, and water it in generously. Delphinium plants should be spaced two or more feet apart. Delphinium Care Delphinium’s many species and types and the various zones they can be grown in make for a quite combination of factors; thus, there is no ‘one size fits all’ type of prescription. Any care and growing tips recommendations should be taken as guidelines and the gardener should be encouraged to experiment within reasonable bounds. For example, given the Delphinium type and the conditions (soil and zone), nutrients like wood ash or bone meal in varying quantities can be mixed into the soil in spring. Feeding & Watering Delphinium plants should be watered moderately three to four times per week. Watering should be at soil level – avoid watering from above the plant to minimise the possibility of powdery mildew or even stem rot or crown rot from setting in. Make sure that the water drains well as Delphiniums have a very low tolerance for waterlogged soil. About once a month I sprinkle some 10-10-10 or all-purpose fertiliser around the stalk but do not push it into the soil. “Delphiniums are heavy feeders, so give them general feed in the spring and just before flowering”, advises Graham. “After pruning, give them another feed with general fertiliser to encourage a second autumn flowering”. For English Delphinium varieties, use 12-12-12 fertiliser. Mulching Periodically mulch the plant during the flowering season by spreading a small amount of the plant’s own mulch at the base of each plant. After autumn comes around and the flowers die, apply several inches of a heavier mulch at the roots. At the end of winter, remember to clean out the mulch shortly before you expect spring frost otherwise there is a risk of stem rot. Pruning Trimming and thinning are very important for a Delphinium plant’s beauty and well-being. After the plant’s first flowering of the season and just before summer, Graham Austin recommends that you trim most or all of the flower stalks – but not the rest of the crown – in between the lower-most flower and ground level. This gardener’s trick will probably cause the plant to bloom once again in late summer or early autumn. Cut spent flower spikes (deadhead them) down nearly to the ground or to the level of any emerging side shoots. Annual thinning is of utmost importance as uncontrolled blooming may well cause the plant, especially cultivars and hybrids, to self-destruct. Thin the shoots when they are four inches tall; leave two spikes for a one-year plant, three for a two-year plant, and so forth. You can have five to seven spikes on mature plants and over 20 on eight-plus-year plants. As for the plant’s stalks, every three or four years these can be dug up, divided into separate clumps and re-planted. After the plant’s first frost, cut the stems down to ground level. Some gardeners do so every year and, depending on the zone, climate, and type of Delphinium, this is good practice. Common Problems While some Delphinium varieties attract aphids, mites and leaf miners, the most common and main threat to this plant is from snails and slugs. According to Graham: “Slugs are the main problem people seem to have. We recommend using horticultural grit in and around the plant (as the slugs don’t like the texture when crawling on it) and thinning the plant by taking out the weaker stems and only leaving the strongest. “This lets the air circulate through the plant keeping it drier, therefore less slugs. As another solution, “nematodes can also be used and work well from April onwards, once the weather is slightly warmer.” “Nematodes species used to control slugs can be very effective when stored and applied correctly, and in my opinion, are the only effective control in borders, if you exclude slug pellets,” says Dan Ori, Master Horticulturist. In the growing season, you can sprinkle red cayenne pepper on fresh young growth. Propagation You can multiply your Delphinium plants (or oblige your neighbours!) by selectively cutting stalks when they are shoots so as to plant and root them. Buying potted young cuttings, as opposed to seeding Delphiniums, gives you a head start in growing them without the trouble associated with germinating them from seed. Delphiniums can be grown from seeds. However, unlike many plants, Delphinium seeds start losing viability quite soon, from one to two years. Seeds germinate best when planted in early spring or autumn, though they can be planted year-round. Do not plant seeds of cultivars and most hybrids directly into a flower bed but plant them in pots or flats indoors. On the other hand, you could also look to plant the seeds of naturally-occurring Delphiniums directly into a prepared flower bed. References 1. The Stories Behind 10 Flower Names. (2022, April 13). Merriam Webster. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/words-at-play/10-flower-names-with-interesting-stories-behind-them
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